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      <title> by Tom Smith</title>
      <link>https://padlet.com/TommySmith/yhe129bzmqx9</link>
      <description></description>
      <language>en-us</language>
      <pubDate>2017-01-13 09:20:49 UTC</pubDate>
      <lastBuildDate>2017-01-13 10:25:33 UTC</lastBuildDate>
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         <title>Tom Smith</title>
         <author>TommySmith</author>
         <link>https://padlet.com/TommySmith/yhe129bzmqx9/wish/146986878</link>
         <description><![CDATA[<div>13/1/2017</div>]]></description>
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         <pubDate>2017-01-13 09:28:05 UTC</pubDate>
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         <title>Floating a wall</title>
         <author>TommySmith</author>
         <link>https://padlet.com/TommySmith/yhe129bzmqx9/wish/146987305</link>
         <description><![CDATA[<div>When floating a wall the first thing you need to do is asses the surface you'll be floating; how much suction the wall will have, they key on the wall etc.<br>This will give you a good idea of when and how to float the plaster and, to a lesser extent the type of plaster you'll be using.<br><br>A screed is a template for how you're going to fill a wall. Normally sits at 300-500mm wide and, depending on the wall, anywhere between 5 and 15mm thick<br>The first screed will start on the left side if you're right handed, or the right side if you're left handed. After applying this first vertical screed mentally break the wall into sections and begin applying a second vertical screed, go about halfway into the wall to break it into easier sections. If there is an opening like a window or a door, go to the first edge closest the the first screed.<br><br>After this you can apply the horizontal screed, this will go at the height of the rule you're using, joining the two vertical screeds and creating a template for the body of the plaster work. At this point you can rule off the already present plaster to make sure it's the same thickness. As this is a backing coat and you'll be keying it, you don't have to worry about getting it perfectly smooth.<br><br>Once the four screeds are in place you can begin systematically filling in the negative space, keeping a rhythm going to ensure efficiency, regularly ruling it off to the thickness of the screeds.<br><br>Once the first area is done, repeat the process on the other side or any other areas that haven't been filled.<br><br>Once the plaster has begin to subset you can devil float it.<br><br>Devil floating is the process of creating a key on the wall for further coats the bind to it, A devil float is a float, normally with nails or screws through the top, this is dragged through the still-setting plaster and creates shallow drag marks through the plaster.<br><br>The process of one coat is the same up to the point of devil floating.<br><br>You bring the wall to plum and the desired thickness (normally about 14mm) Once you reach the point of devil floating, you begin to use a sponge float. Once the sponge is wet, you run it across the subset wall, wetting it and making it more pliable. You then run a trowel up the wall without any gear, to smooth up the wall. This is repeated across the whole wall around 4 or 5 times. Something to note it that it's harder to get a professional finish on one coat, so it's advised the use thistle multi-finish to achieve a truly plum and smooth wall.<br><br></div>]]></description>
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         <pubDate>2017-01-13 09:30:09 UTC</pubDate>
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