jersey vs woven

look at a low-end brand,middle ground, and high-end. comp shop look at three brands

contents page, intro, rolls of a garment tech (mind map) , the critical path of a garment, look into the company, swot summary, competitive shop (three or four) , best place to source the fabric from, , sourcing summary, risk assessment (what can go wrong in the garment), risk assessment on the specific product (what stitches ect, what's going to pill), what is a wearer trial, sealing process, labeling requirements

H&m , Zara , Ralph lauren

PETA workshop Sascha Camilli

“animals are not ours to wear”

around 7 million tonnes of cow leather is processed globally every year, 20 empire state buildings. Leather can also come from dogs and cats, dog skin products can come into the EU and England even tho its not legal.

sometimes they are skinned half alive.

in countries where the leather trade is big children are also known to work on the tanning of leather around cancer causing chemicals with no shoes and also sharp knives to cut the fabric.

the leather trade isnt made to put food on someone's plate, the cows are bred just for leather and are often malnourished.

93% of all the damage from the leather production is before the tanning stage.

Pinatex, made from pineapple leaf to create leather.

Vegea uses stuff left over from grapes to make leather

apple leather made by Mabel, used by small brands

Fruitleather Rotterdam Luxtra is made with mango

there is also cork, mushroom leather, cactus leather, and corn leather.

Cork is a naturally regenerative resource, you can take it off the tree without cutting it down it grows back and it also reduces CO2 in the world.

Cactus leather is new from Mexico.

Mushroom leather, Hermes has made a bag out of mushroom leather.

Corn leather comes from a non-food part of the plant, sometimes a bi-product, its resistant and soft.

Animal leather is not plastic-free, it often has a pu coating to stop it from rotting.

Mirum is a plastic-free vegan leather cover, stella McCartney may have worked with it.

Bio-fabricated leather, Modern meadow.

Hugo boss and Chanel have worked with Pineapple leather.

Wool.

Australia and New Zealand are the biggest wool producers, thats where a lot of greenhouse gasses come from.

Wool hurts animals, shirring hurts the sheep. we have bred sheep to produce 10 times more wool than usual. Fly strike happens to sheep, due to waste staying on their wool. So there is a procedure where they cut the skin on the sheep's backside to make sure the skin is flat to avoid flystirke however this can get infected.

Cashmere. These animals are pinned down and shaved.

what can we do instead of using petroleum-derived wool. we can use hemp, organic cotton, soybean, plant wool or tencel

recycled materials, brave gentlemen's mens first vegan brand. wool made from recycled plastic.

Mohair, comes from goats

angora comes from rabbits, they live in cramped dirty cages. they were kept in there and then had their hair ripped out whilst being pinned down. They would often die of heart attacks.

Down. They are kept in big units together (ducks, geese) where they are plucked and held down till they are featherless. live plucking is still used.

Exotic skins, are only used by high-end brands mostly accessories. It takes 3 crocodiles to make one Hermes bag. they are killed by a stab to the nape however it can take up to two hours for them to die.

The snakes are blown up in order to stretch their skin and then killed. for brands like Louis Vuiton.

Fur, around 100 million animals are killed for fur every year. They often live in cages so small they cant turn around. (mink)

85% are kept in cages. 15% are caught in the wild using jaw traps. mothers have been known to chew off their own limbs to try and get free for their babies.

California and Israel have both banned the importation and production of fur.

England was the first country to ban the production of fur.

Covid outbreaks are typical on fur farms.

There is now vegan fur, there is a fur made from corn and it also releases less greenhouse gases in production.

PETA approved vegan scheme for cruelty-free shopping.

vegan often means there is a loop hole in the ban

cruelty-free is different from vegan, even if they say they don't test on animals others may test on them.

vegan means no animal ingredients not cruelty-free.

For my comp shop I went to Zara, Ralph Lauren and Valentino.

I choose these shops as when researching I found that they are some of the biggest competitors of Ralph Lauren.

I also decided to specialise in Menswear for this project as I already own a lot of menswear and would be interested to look more into how they are made and how their production line works.

I went to Selfridges first and looked around Valentino. There wasn't much to look at in the Valentio department at Selfridges it was very small and did not contain many garments. I also could not find any Jersey pieces within their current collection. The only piece I could find that was similar to Jersey was a wool jumper. I spoke to the employee running the department and he said they have a lot of woven pieces currently but not any jersey. Which I think may be due to the higher prices, Jersey isnt the more durable style of fabric. I also asked The employee about any current promotions they may do for the Christmas period, There isn't any specifically for Valentino however the company is often included in the 20% discount for regular shoppers around Christmas.

I then moved on to Ralph Lauren, the first thing I noticed about Ralph Lauren was that they had a bigger department than Valentino, it was also a lot more colourful and had a bigger variation of clothing. Whereas Valentino only really had shirts and blazers, Ralph Lauren had T-shirts, formal shirts, roll neck jumpers, etc. However, I did also notice when speaking to the employee at Ralph Lauren they weren't as friendly or helpful as Valentino were.

I then went to Zara, I found Zara the most boring to look at. It was very bland lots of bright lights and dull colours for the clothes. The displays also weren't as extravagant as Selfridges which was expected due to it being a high street brand. The men's department was also quite hidden down a small escalator. Zaras clothes were also my least favourite out of all the brands due to the poor quality.

When looking at all the Products I checked the seams, the seams in both the Ralph Lauren and Zara jumper were both Closed. I expected better seams from Ralph Lauren Rather than closed seams due to the costs of the product, I didn't expect the same finish as a high street brand such as Zara. Whereas when I looked at Valentino at their Cotton zip up they had flat fell seams on a lot of the stitching.

Shorter lead times, quicker to get to the manufacturer. Less expensive to import, no big import fees like there would be getting fabric from East Asia. Higher end garments, the fabric from Europe is more likely to be a better quality due to the fabric provided by them being better. Europe's material manufacturers are more innovated than those in East Asia, even though they have copied the changes they aren't up to the same status as Europe. Less Co2 as less travelling needed for the resources. More control over the fabric.

Cons-

Its much more expensive due to the workers being paid more and the quality standard being higher. One of the cons of using a different country as a manufacturer is the time zones.

Having a good relationship with the supplier could lead to favours or benefits for the company. For example there might be a smaller waiting time for the fabric or there may be better deals provided to the buyers to lower the costs. It also helps to build the trust between the companies, for example if the fabric manufacturer know that they will pay on time and are polite they may be more likely to work with them again.

Suppliers KPI

KPI-Key performance indicator

Quantifiable- can be measure in quantity

Subjective- can effect it determining on different factors.

Garment techs need many skills in order to complete their daily tasks. They need to know about the current fashion climate, what's in trend, what's predicted to be in trend etc. They need to keep up with the exchange rates and economy, this will help when figuring out prices and how much the garment will cost, how much they should sell it for. Communication skills are specifically needed as they are needed to communicate to a range of people, who may not specifically know the technicalities as well as them. Sustainability and Ethics are also a key part of the job, sustainability has never been so important. As a garment tech they would need to know where their fabric is coming from, the impacts of that fabric, how to use more sustainable suppliers etc.

https://www.linkedin.com/in/yasmin-charlton-092161292/

We started off with the basic skills of learning how to use Clo3d such as segment and free sewing. Segment was a lot easier to use than free sewing as you could use it to sew full sections together rather than having to select individual notches. However it wouldn't be useful for sewing that may be different to a straight stitch.

Spain, United States, Italy, Germany, Turkey, China, China (Hong Kong), Bangladesh, Vietnam, India.

Spain- Textile and textile machine manufacturing is one of the largest industries in Spain. They range from spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing.

China (Hong Kong)- best known for dyed and printed fabric, also one of the biggest manufacturers and exporters of cotton spinning, denim weaving, knit-to-shape knitting, and also fine-gauge cotton knitting.

USA-best known for raw materials, fabrics, yarns apparel, and home furnishings.

Turkey-Have the capability to fulfill a high standard and broad range of products.

Italy- covers a wide range of fibres with cotton, linen,silk and wool.

India- is made of two segments, handloom, handicraft and sericulture which is done on a smaller practise with traditional methods. The second one is more modern machinery.

Vietnam- Has a diverse supply chain, low labor costs, and industry focuses on specialisation.

Bangladesh- Powerhouse for apparel manufacturing, low labor costs, vast workforce.

Germany- Biggest exporters of knitted cloth, manmade fibre, synthetic yarn and machinery.

China- low-cost production, raw material quality, industrial structure, modern high-tech machinery, label development and work in process domestic consumer and global market.

Atelier team- design team

Manual/flat pattern cutting is good for coats jackets shirts

CAD pattern cutting is good for repeated elements and if it's being sent to multiple factories.

modeling/draping good organic way for styles of asymmetric

All Saints have signed up with the BRC Race To Zero they want to reach net zero by 2040 including not only their manufacturing but also the stores, product packaging and heaters in stores.

Hows Clo3d being used to help this?

They have parametric avatars they can be stretched, changed, and updated. Matched with in how models, review grading.

It can also be used to check styles and see if its fit for purpose, using tension and pressure mapping.

Tools of the trade

Browzwear

Blender

Adobe creative cloud

Style 3d

Clo virtual fashion

By creating a product on Clo3d first you can put the product on the tech pack to ensure the factory knows what it looks like.

You can look at print placement and you can also look at however many prints in the style without wastage.

Benefits of 3d to product development workflow.

More design choice, time-saving reduced development duration, lower emissions sending samples back and forth, enhanced visual communication of a style, less consumption of raw materials, increased output, lowered cost, exclusive options, prepared for new categories.

Process by using Clo3d can reduce a days worth of work, it can reduce the time period from 3 days to 2 days.

They are now using waste fabric to create slip dresses to promote sustainability and want to look into using waste fabric more often to work towards their net zero.

Compositive photography, creating the pose and lighting on Clo3d to reduce time needed on photo shoots.

WFLE seeling from Clo3d WW sales 1,200 units in two seasons.

Future uses of clo3d

Customer-facing content- potentially showcase the work on Instagram.

Fit to order- customers able to design or work on their own stuff and upload it and have it fit to them.

Virtual showroom- will become more popular in the next 15 years. Instead of having to go to a shop have your own visual showroom at home.

AI models and in-game products game-play. For example, Valentino products are featured in Animal Crossing.

Something that I was extremely shocked at was how unwilling they are as a brand to provide any sort of evidence for the changes they have made in emissions, recycling and the improved payment scheme. It definitely made me question how genuine these schemes are or whether they're similar to green washing scandals.

Strengths

Weaknesses

Oppertunties

Threats

Political

Economical

Social

Technical

Environmental

Legal

Ethical

1. "What can go wrong?

2. How is it going to affect your business?

3. What should you do?

4. Should something happen how is it going to be paid for?"