The Humahuaca Carnival is a popular celebration held at the beginning of Lent (40 days before Easter) in the Quebrada de Humahuaca area, Jujuy province, Argentina.

Introduced by the Spanish to America, the carnival was fused with native rituals intended to celebrate the fertility of the earth and to honor the deity of Mother Earth, Pachamama, for the goods received. It is a short, adapted version of the Peruvian Kapaj Inti Rami festival.

A crowd celebrating the carnival at a boundary stone in Tilcara.

The celebration begins in each community with the unearthing of the devil, called Coludo or Pujllay, who symbolizes the celebration, of an apachetan 1 of stones, represented by a rag doll that was buried at the end of the last carnival. Repressed desires are released and during the celebration people can get drunk without restraint, moral precepts are left aside. The Catholic Church has been forced over time to participate in the “pagan” celebrations.

There is dancing and music played with native instruments such as erkenchos, anatas, charangos and drums. The inhabitants dress in colorful costumes using bells and masks to disguise themselves; they have fun covering their faces with flour and throwing talcum powder and streamers at each other while handing out sprigs of basil.

The tradition has indigenous, Spanish and Creole reminiscences. Furthermore, since the Quebrada de Humahuaca is an obligatory passage to Peru and Bolivia, it has assimilated the music and some characteristics of those countries.

The two Thursdays before the carnival, the comadres get together to celebrate the reunion, and the following Thursday it is the turn of the compadres, who entertain themselves with funny verses recounting what happened to them throughout the year. On the Saturday of the carnival, the comparsas get together.

It lasts eight days: with the sun the groups attend the invitations, dancing carnival in the streets, and at night they dance in the local clubs. The celebration ends on “Domingo de Tentación” (Temptation Sunday), with the “burial” of the Devil, in a hole that represents the mouth of the Pachamama, along with cigarettes, coca, streamers and chicha. Typical dishes such as empanadas, lamb, goat cheese are then tasted and, among other things, chicha is drunk, and among laments, people pray for fun again the following year.

In the small town of Tilcara is where this carnival reaches its maximum fervour.

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Maicena alfajores are one of the most typical sweets in Argentina. The tops are made with Maicena (cornstarch), they are filled with dulce de leche and covered with grated coconut.

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Fried, juicy, with the meat cut with a knife, each one contains a secret between its details that makes it unique.

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Pinot Noir wine is produced there  , a red wine that stands out for its concentration, and  Malbec wine , characterized by its intense and fruity flavor. Continuing with the classic reds, you can also try  Bonarda , full-bodied and with a good fruity aroma. And another ideal option is Torrontés, which is the most famous white wine and can only be found in Argentina.

As for the way it is consumed, the rib with loin is eaten juicy, that is, not overcooked, very red inside and golden around. The fattier cuts require longer cooking times.

This product is an excellent signature dish. It is usually eaten with vegetables and warm, homemade country bread. It is recommended to pair it with a delicious Merlot wine, a grape that grows very well in Patagonia.