Bespoke Tailoring and Construction by Laura Lodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx en-us 2017-05-29 11:04:56 UTC 2023-01-21 06:31:10 UTC hello@padlet.com 2. What is inlay and why is it used? lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174234844
Inlay is excess fabric left at certain parts of a garment. Similar to a seam allowance, it's the area left between the edge of the fabric and the stitch line of pieces of fabric being sewn together.

It's used to allow for adjustments and alterations if they are required at any time.

]]> 2017-05-29 11:07:32 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174234844 3. How and where is gimp thread used? lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174235245
Gimp thread is a narrow ornamental trim used in sewing or embroidery. It is made of silk, wool, or cotton and is often stiffened with metallic wire or coarse cord running through it.

In tailoring it's used to strengthen and slightly raise the area around a buttonhole.]]> 2017-05-29 11:12:45 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174235245 4. Hand stitching techniques used in the welt pocket (in making order): lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174235708
a) Basting - to secure fabrics together throughout the making
b) Raw Edge Felling - to secure the welt piece together
c) Side Stitch - to sew around the top of the welt
c) Lining Felling - to attach the pocketing
d) Raw Edge Felling - to secure the raw edges of the cut pocketing to the welt
e) Felling Stitch - to secure the welt edges down
f) Prick Stitch - to finish off the sides of the welt]]> 2017-05-29 11:17:23 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174235708 5. What is a point presser used for? lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174236539
The point presser is used to press seams open in difficult to reach places such as inside pointed and curved collars, lapels, facings and men's ties.

The tailor clapper which forms the base of the point presser is used to flatten bulky edges of facings, edges, pleats, buttonholes, hems and pleats.

]]> 2017-05-29 11:25:33 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174236539 6. Name the pre-waxed thread used in tailoring - why is it used? lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174236944
Silk?

It strengthens the thread, makes it smoother going through layers of fabric and makes it less prone to knotting when hand stitching.]]> 2017-05-29 11:28:55 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174236944 7. When do you use beeswax? lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174237408
Beeswax is used on all threads (other than basting thread) in the construction of bespoke garments. With the exception of pre-waxed / silk thread.]]> 2017-05-29 11:32:24 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174237408 8. What size needle do you use for felling stitch and where is it used? lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174237791
A size 7 needle is used for this stitch.

Felling is used to attach a folded edge to a raw edge or seam line. It's used to neaten hemlines and on the lining of sleeves and jackets. It can also be used for welt pockets.]]> 2017-05-29 11:35:19 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174237791 9. How do you maintain proper posture? lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174238459
Sit either cross legged on the table, ensuring your work is brought to your eyes - rather than hunched over your work.

Or sit with legs crossed over one another on a chair. Again, ensuring you bring your work up to your eye sight, rather than hunching over.]]> 2017-05-29 11:41:35 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174238459 10. Health and Safety issues in the making of the pocket: lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174238910
a) Posture, changing it every hour so as not to damage back
b) Using irons / pressing, taking care not to burn hands etc
c) Using a thimble to stop injury when hand sewing
d) Care taken when using sewing machine - turning it off when not in use etc.

]]> 2017-05-29 11:45:38 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/174238910 Two important factors when taking measurements: lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217167
- Take detailed notes about the client's body e.g. posture, shoulder shape square / sloped etc.

- Tape should be held flat against the body with a 'two finger' gap to ensure a good, but not tight, fit.


]]> 2017-06-22 15:04:06 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217167 Fabrics and Trimmings used in a Baste Fit: lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217403
- Calico
- Canvas
- Basting Thread
- Suiting / main fabric
- Holland Linen 
- Tape]]> 2017-06-22 15:06:13 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217403 Types of Baste Fittings: lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217603
- Skeleton Baste (1st, below)
- Pocket Fitting (2nd)
- Forward Fitting (3rd)

]]> 2017-06-22 15:08:27 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217603 Process that follows striking and cutting a waistcoat: lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217804
- Baste Fitting]]> 2017-06-22 15:10:27 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/177217804 Step By Step of Making the Waistcoat lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/178209702 2017-07-06 17:28:03 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/178209702 Fashion Industry Production Project lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/178209849 2017-07-06 17:31:10 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/178209849 Preparation for Employment Project lauranlodge https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/178209872 2017-07-06 17:31:54 UTC https://padlet.com/lauranlodge/tzkue7eut4wx/wish/178209872