https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs Practical Skills Q&A en-us 2019-05-13 16:27:11 UTC 2025-04-23 17:05:50 UTC hello@padlet.com leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359564737 The inlay is an additional piece of cloth within the garment’s seam which allows for greater freedom for readjustments between fittings. Its prevalence in bespoke clothing is necessary to ensure the garments longevity can be maintained for as long as possible. Not having an inlay can make it very difficult to adjust a garment post fitting. ]]> 2019-05-13 16:36:35 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359564737 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359571183 After drafting the inlay and the welt with seam allowances. The line between inlay and welt are basted with the linen attached at the back.
The fabric is then pressed to fold along the basting line. Basting is all the way long to fold the seam allowances inwards after pressing. 

Side stitch is applied on the lower edge of the welt. While felling and raw edge felling hand stitching are applied on the 2 shorter edges and parallel to the side stitch respectively.]]> 2019-05-13 16:49:29 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359571183 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359571525 Just as you measure and adjust a pattern to make a garment fit, you should as well measure to find the proper heights for your sewing table, cutting table and ironing board. 
Sewing table height: When sewing, your hands should be on a straight line with your wrists and forearms, not bent forward. 

Cutting table & ironing board height: Stand with your elbow bent at right angles, then drop your hands very slightly so your arms are in comfortable position. ]]> 2019-05-13 16:50:06 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359571525 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359571651 Felling stitch is sewn with a needle size 7 between the fabric. Felling is used to attach the folded edge of the lining to the hem or facing of a garment. The needle picks up a small amount of the garment cloth and lining passing through the layers diagonally, producing very small diagonal stitches. 
It is also used for folding the inlay into the welt pocket. ]]> 2019-05-13 16:50:22 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359571651 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359572181 When making the pocket, we need to "press as we go", therefore should pay extra attention to the steam when pressing open the fold and seam allowances on the small fabric. 
Sharp snips/ scissors are used for cutting the edge/ open the pocket, hence beware of finger injury. ]]> 2019-05-13 16:51:30 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359572181 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359572790 Point Presser is a pressing tool made from wood that has a sharp point sanded into one end. Point pressers are helpful in making very crisp points such as collars and pockets

Pressing your seams open always helps make crisp edges, but sometimes, it is impossible to press a seam open on a small corner (like the points on a collar). A point presser makes this job possible.

]]> 2019-05-13 16:52:26 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359572790 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359572926 Pre-waxed hand sewing thread comes in polyester or nylon. They are strong and have some stretch, often have a wax or silicon finish that allows the thread to slip through the fabric with little friction. They are also suitable for stretch fabrics such as synthetics and knits.

]]> 2019-05-13 16:52:44 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359572926 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359573342 Gimp is a narrow ornamental trim  used in sewing or embroidery. It is made of silk, wool, or cotton and is often stiffened with metallic wire or coarse cord running through it. Gimp is used as trimming for dresses, curtains. 

Usually, in order to prevent the buttonhole from stretching out of shape, and to provide firmness to the buttonhole, a thick strand of special silk thread called gimp will need to be placed underneath the buttonhole stitches.]]> 2019-05-13 16:53:36 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359573342 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359573349 We use beeswax to wax the thread. Waxing makes regular thread stiffer, more water and mildew resistant, and less stretchy. It also makes threading a needle easier, resulting in thread less prone to knotting when hand stitching and makes the thread stronger when sew on buttons. It is also on precision work such as hand sewing buttonholes.

]]> 2019-05-13 16:53:36 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359573349 leungkawaichloe https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359663913 2019-05-13 20:26:28 UTC https://padlet.com/leungkawaichloe/sabgixo8q4fs/wish/359663913