• Winter weather (all wood should be dormant)
• Grafting knife
• Rootstock and scion of the same size, a quarter up to a half inch. Scion has at least three healthy buds
• String and plastic tape or sealing wax

1. Sharpen your knife. It must be as sharp as possible for this graft. If it is dull you will attempt to make the cut by increasing the force you apply, which will increase your risk of slipping. A dull knife is more likely to turn as it passes through the wood, making a wavy cut. Be sure it is sterilized before and after use.
2. In one stroke make a long, smooth cut angling across an internode at the top of the rootstock to create an oval face about one inch long, or longer if your wood is thicker. When doing this, hold the wood tightly in one hand and your knife tucked tight in four fingers of your cutting hand, with that hand’s thumb stuck straight out. The cut is a single, straight pulling motion, pulling sideways across your chest and away from your hand holding the wood. None of your fingers move from the position during the cut, thus keeping your thumb in front of and out of the way of the knife.
3. Make a cut of the same length and angle across the base of the scion.
4. Check that these cuts match. Place these cuts against each other now and see that they line up well, having the same angle and a straight, not wavy, face. When placed against each other, there should not be air gaps or exposed inner wood. If there is a problem, now is the time to try to correct it with recutting.

1. Make the tongues. This is the difficult and dangerous cut. Starting about 1/3 of the way down from the tip of your wood, you must cut into the face. Your cut should be straight, about half the length of the first cut, and parallel to the first cut. Make the same cut in both scion and rootstock. When completed, the two pieces can be fit together in an interlocking manner.
2. Slide the scion and stock together to interlock. The tongues will fit snugly together and the wood’s natural tension should hold the graft tightly, with minimal or no air space between the pieces of wood. If the thicknesses are slightly different do not center the scion. Rather, offset it to make sure one of the two sides line up smoothly.
3. Bind and seal the graft by wrapping it tightly top-to-bottom twine covered with plastic tape or sealing wax.
4. Follow up with general aftercare until the union fully takes.

Cerastium vulgatum and Hypochaeris radicata (some rust disease was discovered on these). Raised beds were flame weeded and new compost was put on. The Jang was the used to sow the Red Russian Kale @ 5 rows per bed.

• Do not cut the chives before they attain the height of at least 6 to 10 inches (15-25 cm).
• Cut to the base with sharp scissors or pruners.
• When growing chives from seeds, avoid cutting them for the first 60 days. Chives take at least 60 days to mature from seeds.
• Wait at least 30 days when you grow the herb from cuttings, before you start harvesting.
• Do not cut chives during freezing weather conditions or frost. Frost might shock the plant, and the herb may die in severe conditions. The last harvest of the year should be before the first frost. Don’t harvest again until early spring. In spring, you can start harvesting as soon as it grows to at least 6″ (15 cm).