-I have chosen to do the macro trend of sustainability as it is a pressing topic within the industry with the fashion world facing scrutiny for its environmental and ethical implications.

-It is a growing trend with cultural and social relevance in a time where change really matters

-My focus will be on sustainable materials because its development is essential for driving innovation and promoting ethical practices in fashion, ultimately contributing to a healthier planet and society.

-I will be doing case studies on alternative leathers, product longevity and carbon clothing

-I plan to use secondary data resources such as articles, reports, journals and documentaries from the databases

-I plan to use primary data to report on the possibilities for innovative sustainable materials and how readily available they could be to discover the chances of them spreading into the mainstream

of the worst parts of the industry into clothing itself. Emissions from the fashion industry have been a rising concern and it accounts for '10% of global carbon emissions – more than international flights and maritime shipping combined'.  (European parliament, 2024)

However, Carbon tech innovators are finding the potential in this atrocity with ways to convert pollution to carbon-neutral fibres, materials and dye pigments which would be revolutionary in ensuring sustainability in fashion.  

'Emission-to-textile' innovators are mining waste methane and CO2 emissions from the air, using biotech or green chemistry to make low carbon materials. 

Polyester from emissions: Chicago-based LanzaTech captures waste gas from factory pollution before it enters the air and uses it to feed bacteria. The ethanol released by the bacteria forms mono-ethylene glycol (MEG), an ingredient of PET which can then be made into polyester. Separately, US biotech firm Mango Materials uses methane to feed bacteria, creating a PHB polyester from the process. And French start-up Fairbrics has developed polyester from waste CO2 and water in a process that replicates plant growth, powered by electricity instead of photosynthesis. (Palmer, 2023) 

Case study :  

Lanza tech is a brand committed to creating materials from emissions and partnered with both lulu lemon and Zara on collections that utilized the materials. Zaras collection of party dresses contained 20% of the material but were a promising start into the world of these new materials and the breaking of them into the mainstream.  

Bibliographic reference:

Palmer, Helen. May 2023. ‘Sustainability & Innovation: Emission-to-Material'

WGSN  [online] Available: https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/63657424c5b863bbcc68293f[accessed 24 September 2024]

Strategy: see where CO2 tracking and investment into carbon removal storage and utilisation (CCUS) technologies could help your business reduce pollution at source.

Action:

• Scientists agree that carbon removal technologies will be necessary to mitigate the climate crisis, but the carbon capture, usage and removal sector needs more investment

• Partner with CCUS innovations able to store and convert factory emissions into new polymers, concrete and biofuel, and emergent biotech that can sequester organic carbon into safe, carbon-zero products, materials, pigments and dyes

Need to know: by 2030, global investment in carbon removal capacity is predicted to reach between US$100bn and $400bn. To reach net zero by 2050, over $6trn of investment is needed – with a minimum 2030 investment of half a trillion – but to date, the technologies have only attracted $13bn.

Bibliographic reference:

Palmer, Helen & Yeung, Quinlan. Mar 2024. ‘ Sustainability Bulletin: April 2024'

WGSN  [online] Available: Sustainability Bulletin: April 2024 - WGSN Fashion Design [accessed 24 September 2024]

Shah, Diti. Feb 2023. ‘Leather in Fashion: How has it Evolved?' Fibre 2 Fashion [online] Available: Leather in Fashion: How has it Evolved? - Fibre2Fashion

[Accessed 3 October 2024] 

Leather is a highly used material in garment creation and yet it is so harmful to the environment with cattle ranching emissions, deforestation and the toxic runoff from tanning. Leather is also controvesial and a topic of conversation when we look at animal rights and the lack of in many countries where the leather is produced and then imported. There are many alternatives to animal leather with  

-pineapple leather 

-mushroom leather 

-cactus leather 

-leaf leather 

-coconut leather  

And many more great alternatives. 

Case study 1 : Stella McCartney and Mirum collab 

“The future of fashion has arrived,” Stella McCartney said in reference to MIRUM® used as part of her Winter 2023 Collection that debuted at Paris Fashion Week earlier this month.   

The collection featured new editions of Stella McCartney’s iconic Falabella and Frayme bags crafted from MIRUM®. 

“My Winter 2023 show is both a celebration of the love between humans and animals, as well as a call-to-action to take a stand for our planet — the perfect setting to introduce my iconic Falabella and Frayme bags in MIRUM®,” Stella McCartney said. “I have long dreamed of the day when we would see a plant-based alternative to leather that does not kill a single creature and can be easily given back to Mother Earth, without creating waste. There is no compromise on desirability or durability; the future of fashion has arrived.”   

Bibliographic reference:  

Palmer, Helen. March 2023. ‘MIRUM® makes its runway debut with Stella McCartney 

' 

NFW  [online] Available: [ accessed 24 September 2024] 

-large scale societal changes that impact multiple areas of life including fashion. They evolve slowly and have a significant and lasting impact on consumer behavior and preferences. Trends are an effect of the cause (society and culture). Emerging values and needs are at the core of a 
trend. 

-They rise slowly and stay for around 10-15 years.  

-Based around a shift in consumer behavior 

-Global and long lasting changes 

Examples  

• Covid 19 

• Sexuality liberation 

• Black lives matter movement 

Micro trends  

Smaller, short lived trends that emerge within seasons  

Rise to popularity quicker and then leave trend cycle 

Influenced by context, media and politics 

Examples : 

• animal prints 

• neon colours 

• bucket hats. 

Human centred design 

User empathy – understanding needs, emotions and behaviours of consumers 

Collaboration – involving users and stakeholders in design, producers and consumers (no longer passive). A postmodern view on consumerism 

User centric solutions 

Iteration – continuous improvement through feedback and testing  

Theorist: Martin Gladwell (tipping point book) 

-Case study – hush puppies/Clarkes wallabies: 

• Small company in 1970s 

• In 1991, 30,000 sales w family owned shoe stores 

• In 1992, two execs were told they were used on a shoot by stylist 

• Re-sellers sold for $100 (original $30) 

• 1994, designer Fitzgerald devoted his store to the shoes 

• 1996 – selling 500,000 units 

Shoes followed an epidemic model – small changes creating a huge effect (like a virus) 

Fashion as words – there's no longer just fashion through clothes, clothes speak the identity of the wearer and images of such individuals prompt discourses. 

Trends are not clothes, they are stories about clothes.  

E.g. Converse 

• In 1960s, high tech basketball equipment  

• 1970s looked at 1950s nostalgia of rock and roll 

• 1990s looked at grunge and acid house with scruffy trainers 

• 2000s – Nike bought and re brands as preppy americana to market more to female 

• More professional today 

Dc Martins 

• 1970s, right wing groups adopted the shoes (skinheads) 

• Re branded the shoes to remove this narrative 

• Fascist culture to mainstream pop culture 

Roland Barthes – semiotics 'system de la mode'  

Denotation -literal or dictionary definition of a word. 

Connotation - refers to the emotional and associative charge a word carries beyond its strict definition. 

Research trends  

-method to identify and understand change in a structured way to be aware of possible directions of change.  

Long term fashion forecasting helps brands make strategic decisions about an overall direction. Provides insights into macro trends that can influence brand identity, product development and marketing strategies. E.g. if a brand foresees a growing trend in sustainability they might invest in eco-friendly materials, production methods and messaging as a long time stat to align with the trend.  

Short term fashion forecasting becoming so much faster due to the rise and trend of fast fashion. Brands like Zara, h&m and Shein have shortened the production cycle, enabling them to bring new styles to market within days/weeks of identifying trends. Social media and data  analytics also play a role in rapid trend identification. E.g. 4 original seasons vs Zara's 24 season collections last year.  

-Capitalism is opportunistic and so taking risks and jumping on opportunities is also essential. E.g. M&S 

-It is a balance between long term strategy, remaining values  and opportunistic risks. E.g. Victoria Secrets. 

Media is endless, no beginning ,middle and end to marketing campaigns and media such as magazines, we now have endless access on demand.  

Manuele Castelle – media studies and sociologist - "technology is society. The medium is what we live off"  

Digital media has created fragmentation and an asynchronistic way of life.  

Importance of forecasting 

-helps brands anticipate and meet consumer demands 

-reduces risks associated with design and production 

-supports effective inventory management  

-aids in strategic decision making and brand positioning 

-create visual timeline for sustainable materials

-read Coombs case research article

-find something interesting from McKinley report

-Transfer week 1 notes to padlet

-Research sustainable leathers on databases

-write student executive nomination

-Go to Covent garden reformation store

-Get in touch with Rubi Laboratories

-Read an academic journal on sustainable fashion

-write up report

-include padlet link in appendix

-Maxine Bedat is instrumental in pushing this bill.  

-It has picked up 80 co-sponsors and backing from a broad swath of advocacy groups, as well as brands including Reformation, Patagonia and Stella McCartney 

-require brands with more than $100 million in revenue doing business in New York to map and monitor their full supply chain, address any abuses and set comprehensive climate targets. It’s scope would effectively cover every major fashion brand in the world and many mid-sized ones. Non-compliance could carry penalties of up to two percent of global revenue. (Kent, 2024) 

• Ziff, the founder of the model rights advocacy group Model Alliance, is a leading champion of the Fashion Workers Act, which seeks to regulate model management agencies and provide models with greater protection from exploitative practices. 

-“We heard that over and over when we met with lawmakers that they were simply not aware this was a problem,” said Ziff. “You see the reaction on people’s faces when they understand what’s considered normal in this industry; they’re shocked.” 

- agencies operating in the state would have to register with the Department of Labour, making it harder for scammers to entrap young hopefuls with the promise of making them the next big thing. (Kent, 2024) 

Unfortunately, despite countless and relentless efforts to pass the bill, it did not get to the floor in time to vote this year. There have been mixed responses from the industry with masses of support from brands that value sustainability but a lot of pushbacks from major brands who fear the financial and social repercussions of the bill coming into effect.  

Bédat : The collective effort is why New York legislators now better understand that the industry is “stuck in a race to the bottom that won’t be stopped without common-sense rules, backed up by meaningful consequences,” she said. “While we simply ran out of time this session, this growing movement will be ready, and more organized, better funded and more energized than ever to pass meaningful legislation that addresses the harms of the fashion industry and sets up the basic rules to allow this industry to thrive today and in the future.” (Chua, 2024) 

This act couldn’t be more important with its ability to openly expose and penalize unsustainable companies that are attempting to 'greenwash' their brand to push a façade of sustainability whilst they exploit customers lack of knowledge into the dark reality of their wrongdoings.  

• environmental advocacy group Stand.earth found that the fast-fashion retailer increased its absolute carbon emissions by nearly 50% over the course of a year — despite announcing plans to reduce emissions. The report comes amid Shein's recent PR efforts to rehabilitate its image as the retailer endeavors to go public in the United States. (Sessoms, 2024) 

• Stand.earth found that, in one year, its carbon emissions rose by nearly 50%, surpassing those of the entire country of Paraguay.  (Sessoms, 2024) 

As well as looking ahead, going back to find old answers to new questions around ancient best practices will support sustained regenerative biodiverse material approaches using a wider range of plants, crops, materials and ingredients. Nature inspires forms patterns and DNA investigations.(Saldana, 2023)

Oversized Croc

The concept: as brands double-down on Long-Term Lifespans, timeless #AnimalPrint updates classic exotic patterns with more pronounced embossings and oversized proportions.

Print and pattern: prioritise large embossed croc and use consistent and regular-scale to favour pattern cutting for mass production. Capitalise on embossed finishes to hide surface and material imperfections and to reduce waste.

Distressed Leather

The concept: evolving S/S 25’s Freshly Salvaged direction, #ResponsibleLeather and low-impact leather-look materials continue to take on a #DistressedTexture, prompted by a sustainable mindset that prioritises long-lasting items.

Surface and materials: distressed and pull-up leathers with cracked or eroded finishes gain pace. Rubbed, uneven colour, crinkled grains and creased textures prevail. Capitalise on distressed markings and prints to cover materials’ imperfections and to avoid waste.

How to implement: as consumers will have a renewed appreciation of distressed and time-worn finishes, let wear and tear marks shape the material.

Recontexualised Lace

The concept: #Lace has a dual purpose into A/W 25/26, reflecting ancestral future heirlooms and Rebellious Resistance dressing for fashion-led and investment-worthy ranges.

Fibre and yarn: use responsibly sourced lace made out of BCI, GOTS or recycled cotton, or traceable linen and GRS-certified polyester and nylon. Alternatively, opt for recycled PET or FSC-certified cellulosic-based yarns. For high-end and premium products choose sustainable silk.

How to implement: focus on repurposed design, using surplus overproduction or deadstock lace. Apply a modern edge and reduce costs with embossed and printed designs. For innovation use laser-cutting to reimagine lace, reflecting WGSN's digitally inspired Techno-lace story.

A research method that engages in the close detailed examination of a single example.

An example or proof point of your macro trend

Trends are a phenomenon because they are not observable or understandable because they can rise and fall and last forever or 2 minutes. Need as many tools as possible to make sense of them and case studies are a great way to pinpoint useful info on trends. That's why methodological pluralism is utilized to gather data on trends.

-A case study is one of the most widely used and accepted means of qualitative research methods (Bloomberg & Volpe, 2022).

-The case study approach is particularly useful to employ when there is a need to obtain an in-depth appreciation of an issue, event or phenomenon of interest, in its natural real-life context (Crowe et al., 2011)

-The case study design is preferred as a research strategy when “how,” “why,” and “what” questions are the interest of the researcher (Yin, 2018)

Trend - undergarments are increasingly innovative in their design with prioritisation of materials that are biodegradable and compostable

Insight -As climate crisis worsens, more are trying to be eco conscious to do their part in mitigating the issu

Trends can form from human innate desire and intrinsic feelings. - co creation and customisation is what is desired by customers.

How emerging is your chosen trend

The RealReal is a luxury fashion retail and resell brand that reduces demand for new product and promoting sustainability

Zero waste fashion - Eileen Fisher who upcycles old garments into new products

How to approach case studies:

Phase 1) secondary data - helps sets boundaries

Cultural and industrial context - what, where, who, why, when

Phase 2 ) Methods within case study methodology

Ethnography ?  Observations ? - go study place and people

Might help to define consumer groups - demographics

Structured interview to follow ?

Other nuanced semi structured data

"Less than 1 percent of fashion textiles are recycled308 and a truckload of products are sent to landfill or incinerated somewhere in the world every second.309 310 An amendment to the Waste Framework Directive is calling for Extended Producer Responsibility, which already exists in France, and which requires companies to finance the collection, sorting and recycling of textile waste. Fees are expected to vary based on production output and pollution levels caused, a principle known as “eco-modulation.” All EU countries will be required to launch textile collection programmes by 2025 and the destruction of unsold goods is expected to be banned"

Page 72 -

They are a California based fibre and materials innovation brand working to transform harmful gases into useable materials.

'With $13.5 million in total funding raised, the Mashouf twins are developing a proprietary textile manufacturing process that combines carbon dioxide with lab-created enzymes in a chemical reactor. The result, according to the company, is a cellulose fibre that can be spun into yarn.'

The brands funding is a great start and shows their is interest and potential in its future outlook. However it is not a cheap process and much more will be needed in order to upscale operations and push it into the mainstream efficiently.

'Since its creation in 2020, Rubi Labs has worked with brands including H&M and Reformation. In August 2023, Rubi started a pilot programme with Walmart, for which it will capture carbon from one of the retailer’s manufacturers and convert it into fabrics, first for a prototype and eventually for a small collection.'

-This brand is a key example of carbon capture technology breaking into the mainstream fashion industry and the future possibilities for this sustainable proposal.

Utilise survey to understand whether consumers truly feel different or care about sustainable clothes to understand how much of demand is there more more options such as alternative leather

-perhaps interviews

-talks with staff about their instore sustainability programmes

Plan for primary research:

Interview questions with staff:

-do you have any initiatives in store that impacts the brands sustainability ?

-

"The circular economy is a hot topic at the moment and rightfully so. As overpopulation and overconsumption reach new levels, the fashion industry must shift its gaze to new systems of fibre production. Textile recycling offers the key to closing the loop on fashion."

"Growing consumer interest in sustainability and transparency is becoming imperative as a key driver for change." (Olivia Barnes & the WGSN Materials, Textiles & Knitwear Team,2018)

 And a brand that is driving this consumer interest in sustainability is Reformation, a trendy fashion brand with sustainability at its core. They understand the need to push sustainability whilst making it cool and available for gen x to enjoy. They generate consumer interest through their young and fun marketing as well as their small product batches released regularly that appeals to a generation so used to fast fashion modules.

As explained by Dr Kate Goldsworthy from TED (Textiles Environment Design), textile fibres can be recycled through two methods: mechanical recycling and chemical recycling. Mechanical processes degrade fibres with each round of recycling, whereas chemical recycling can produce high-quality fibres, increasingly of equal quality to virgin fibres.(Olivia Barnes & the WGSN Materials, Textiles & Knitwear Team,2018)

Secondary Research on Reformation

"The company built its business on the promise of cute, but environmentally-responsible style"

 “We can’t immediately change consumer habits, like purchasing new clothes, so our mission is to offer consumers better choices.” (Kent, 2020)

"Since you and Earth deserve the best, our goal is to source 100% of our fabrics from recycled,

regenerative, or renewable materials by 2025." (The reformation, 2024)

"We believe the future of fashion is circular, and making something new shouldn’t have to mean using virgin materials. So we want to make really cute, recyclable products that last longer, with as close to zero virgin materials as possible, and reduce waste along the way"

• 98% of materials used are recycled, regenerative, or renewable1

    •    24% of materials used are deadstock, recycled, or next-gen (aka not virgin)

    •    54% of stuff made is textile-to-textile recyclable through RefRecycling"

"Circular practices contribute to lower demand for materials, and thus lower CO2e. We found that if we expanded our existing fabric scrap upcycling and resale programs, we could see ~11-23% total reduction potential in our materials footprint. Trash to treasure." (The reformation)

-niche topics chosen based off research

-in depth secondary research

negative:

-less writing needed in presentation, makes it clunky

• Globally, clothing and footwear consumption is set to rise by 63 percent over the next ten years.

  So, I want to be frank: with today’s ways of working, the planet simply cannot take it.

• Because, on the fashion industry’s own current trajectory, by 2030, its emissions will be almost double the level required to keep the 1.5 degree target within reach. The sector would miss the 1.5 degree pathway by 50 percent.

• 
  

 -Journal is first person

-report is in tone of objectivity

-personal opinions not to be included

-avoid absolute claims without supporting evidence

-element of analysis

-journal is best - peer reviewed and published in academic journal - can find on Falmouth library

-books and reports and journalism second best

-try not to use websites so much

-single quote use, double for when its been acc said

-include what a case study is before doing your case studies

-include books/docs anything that has been used in you bibliography even if not utilised in report

-need to check if there's already previous research

-develop methodology and questions your determining

-triangulate your case studies - carbon clothing is what industry can do, recycled material is what we can help with

-determine your primary research based off what secondary you can find

-transcript in appendices

Theory

-anti consumerism

-slow culture

-creativity theory

 Questions to consider

-am i using critical thinking and analysis that looks holistically and in depth at topics and uncovers philosophical ideals towards topic.

-does the status quo need to change ?

-am i synthesising evidence and using my understanding to make reasoned judgements.

and questions if the concept is really so green ?

-"I really think the best way to think about this is we mimic what trees do."

-"The challenge there is it's often a whole new supply chain, whole new stuff that you need to create, and doing it at a

large scale, and making it lower cost is a huge challenge for them."

-"The main ones [issues] are cost and also still environmental impact because a lot of these processes need a lot of energy. So, people are trying to do it with a low-cost renewables, but that's pretty challenging when you're talking about the large amounts of energy. They can also consume large amounts of water and other resources"

"Once you take into account the whole life cycle of the process from beginning to end, talking about potentially having to ship things around the world. And once you do that with anything in the materials or commodity space, the environmental footprint starts getting pretty rough. "(Ramkumar, 2022)