Inclusivity vs Exclusivity Dissertation by

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Strengths:

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Explores a topic that is very current and being explored by many in fashion retail landscape.

Weaknesses:

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It doesn't give me a chance to showcase my whole skillset range and capabilities.

Opportunities:

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Incorporating Data Analytics and Internationalisation & Globalisation in to the report.

Threats:

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Political:

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G7 Summit
'This industrial decoupling has a potential collateral impact on luxury brands selling in China. What will demand for luxury goods look like under this increasingly strained relationship between China and the rest of the world?' (Sleevehead, 2021)

Economic:

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Will luxury fashion be profitable if they return to their ultra exclusive ways?
Is the profit margin of accessible luxury worth ruining luxury legacy for?
New Money vs Old Money
Demographics

Social:

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Gen-z consumers behave very differently to previous generations and they have major external influences and factors affecting their purchasing decisions such as social media pressures. They also have strong internal influencers such as their beliefs of ethics, inclusivity etc.
Commitment to philanthropy and corporate social responsibility is important as well as establishing relationships with charities etc.

Technological:

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'Social media and technological innovations have democratized luxury, bringing the brand closer to consumers than ever before.' (Achim, 2020)

Legal:

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Laws coming in to pl

Environmental:

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G7 Summit

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Customer Profile:

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The profile on the Gen-Z consumer.
After the WW11 they targeted the youth.
Rental market.

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Achim, A., 2020. What Happens When Luxury Becomes too Accessible? | Jing Daily. [online] Jing Daily. Available at: [Accessed 13 June 2021].

Research

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Demonstrate systematic understanding of information-gathering techniques, which use a

wide range of sources, providing visual, contextual and business research as appropriate.

Quantitive and qualitative data.

Analysis

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Analyse research materials leading to the generation of some new

concepts with existing key themes which inform and underpin project development.

Extensively explored, compared and contrasted research findings and data sources.
contradictions will help shape and might shift my personal opinions.
(Synthesis of findings-taking in to account an alternative side)

P-oint
E-vidence
A-analysis
L-ink

At the end, have a limitations for my research in a section after my recommendations.

Perpetual innovative, insightful new ideas.

Production

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Demonstrate a confident working

knowledge, production skills, selection, application and

systematic understanding of the

creative potential of a range of processes, materials and methods

Conceptual Development

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Develop a range of possibilities leading to generate innovative

solutions

Presentation

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Communicate projects and business solutions effectively, creatively and professionally

(visual, oral or written form) to a wide range of situations appropriate to the audience and the purpose of the work.

Self-Management

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Demonstrate highly effective transferable and employability skills, assessing own abilities

to work independently, set goals, respond to change and communicate effectively.

Professional Context

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Professionally position personal identity in complex, unpredictable

contexts that require the selection and application of varied techniques and information sources.

Evaluation and Critical Engagement

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The ability to critically evaluate the subject of study as well as your

own performance at all stages of the project; to synthesise and

evaluate a range of information and develop a course of action; to

reflect on performance and independently set personal learning goals.

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SWOT on both Inclusivity and Exclusivity within the luxury sector.
PESTLE on a global scale.
Generational Trends.
Semiotics.
Consumer Behaviour (Gen-Z vs Silent Generation).
Bourgeoisie history.
Marketing Campaign analysis.
Global Economic Growth.
Guccifest.com
Social Media
Marketing Placement
How do they advertise to people in china?
French Revolution.

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Interviews with 3 people (1-Farfetch, 2-Victoria Beckham, 3-Burberry?)
Response analysis
Case study (Gucci)

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Is the Luxury Fashion sector losing it's exclusivity in the current retail landscape?

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Has the Luxury Fashion Industry abandoned it's Unique Selling Point in an attempt to win over Gen-Z?

Has the Luxury Fashion Industry betrayed it's original identity for higher profit.

Is the luxury fashion sector devaluing their

Is the luxury fashion losing it's appeal with Gen-Z?

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Edited
Books about Luxury fashion and Gen-Z.
Falmouth library old FMP's on luxury fashion.

Undressed: Fashion in the Twentieth Century.

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"Women were restricted-held in bourgeois restraint. The corset helped women stand and assert-(even mentally)-their social position. In the 19th Century, the crinoline was a symbol of aristocracy (the upper class). The large skirts prevented women from working by isolating them in a sphere of fabric."-Christain Lacroix

"Art influences fashion but contrary to what artists think, fashion can also influence art"- Karl Largerfield

"Paris couture dominated fashion"-Mary Quant
(50's and 60's Swinging London caused by the youth that moved fashion forward).

Sex and drug culture
French Vogue Bob Richardson-series of photos taken of Donna Mitchell. There was an earthquake of how wild and free the issue was.
changed fashion photography forever.

mass production promised a new society (modernism) Ostanstashion.

revolution aesthetic called Purism
a new restrained, refined simplicity modern form of dress
flaunter of convention/early radicicalism
defining emblems of 20th century fashion
Chanel changed fashion
the invention of the 'little black dress' changed the way in which black was worn and gave a sense of seriousness and almost perversity
all the components of erotic and social power brought together by Chanel in one new dress

"Black represents a general denouncing of frill in fashion, it doesn't turn people in to flowers, it turns people a little more into warriors"

"We don't realise how shocking it must have been to send women out dressed entirely in black- in a way we are immune to that because what she did was show the freedom of women and that is still how women wear the little black dress today. the ultimate easy choice that still stands and still draws the fine line, still beautifies and still negates frivolity and indecision. having said that there was still designers who questions there limits, sense, constraints and Amanda Harlech

Ray Cower Coobo (known as the great radical of late 20th century fashion)-"It's not good to do what others do, if you keep doing the same things without taking risks there will be no progress. You must think about the practical and financial side of things separately from the creative side. You have to find something new or there can be no progress. I can appreciate traditional beauty and values but unless there are people who seek what is not traditional there can be no progress."
'what is preconceived decided upon has been seen already'
'each period, each generation decides what avant-garde is- pf course, people want to wear trendy clothes and be fashionable because people want that, trends exist. This decade more than any other has seen everyone wearing the same things. Its always been like that, but particularly so this decade, unless there a mood to express something different from others society won't become creative. so I think the current era may be the least interesting in history.

lack of restraint and complexity

the quality of new

coming to terms with mass production and machinery loses the quality of the accident of the craftsman

'The idea of fashion as a mirror of its time is not new, nor is the desire to reflect change by literally fashioning a new society.'

Clothing that would bring ultiliatirain beauty to the masses caused by the Russian revolution.
"The idea of creating a new aesthetic after a revolution was an idea that would spread in every aspect of life."-white man
'Interesting focus on clothes and clothing by constructivists"

(Jeans) "It represents freedom, it represents trendiness, it represents anti-fashion, it represents inner city fashion. it represents soo many things. I think it represents a phenomenon of our time" -Ralph Lauren. \

Youth movement of equality and simplicity and anti-consumerism, jeans became the quintessential clothing item of consciousness

existentialism
anti-borgeou
anti-everything their parents stood for in the 1960's.
the clientele
How are they going to adapt themselves?

1967 Yves Saint Laurent
"I hate bourgeois women, their ideas, their intransigence and their tastes. They always look boring."

He claimed to be anti-bourgeois but loved putting women in bourgeois styles. he got rid of the system of things you could and could not do. He was the first one to bare breasts-showing them under muslin
anti-bourgeois revolution

Undressed: Fashion in the Twentieth Century, Rebellion, 20:00 15/02/1998, Channel 4, 60 mins. https://learningonscreen.ac.uk/ondemand/index.php/prog/buf5d9bbe?bcast=129193180 (Accessed 01 Jul 2021)

(Undressed: Fashion in the Twentieth Century, 1998)

Undressed: Fashion in the Twentieth Century. 1998. [video] Directed by G. Koppel. England: Channel 4.

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How they came to that point of view...

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Semiotics

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Fashion History

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Critical and contextual
The evolution of luxury fashion from haute couture to ready to wear to fast fashion
Brand identity Theory
Brand Identity Prism

Marketing Strategies

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Points of parity and difference
12 P's of marketing
Sean McDonald applying Maslow to Gen-Z.
Ansoff's matrix

Consumer Behaviour

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Gen-Z (How has Ben-Z's buying behaviour affected the luxury business model?)
Generational trends
Vals Customer Journey EKB
Maslow's Heirachy of Needs
Kotler and Armstrong

Pestle

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(On a global scale)

SWOT

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On both Inclusivity and Exclusivity

Moral Compass

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Zeitgeist

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Realistic, commercially viable, relevant and concise

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Kapferer on luxury

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Growth Issues:
PAGE 1-
'Is a lack of demand the source of the problem? No, the problem is just the opposite: excess of demand.'

'In the luxury market, clients not only buy an exceptional product...they also buy the exclusivity'

'To paraphrase Groucho Marx: "I would never want to be a part of a club that would accept me." This exclusivity factor is what distinguishes luxury from premium brands'.
PAGE 2-
'Growth in luxury is a fragile concept and a mixed blessing.'
'Luxury as a sector is becoming consolidated as a result of the problems raised by growth.'

'Today, niche is out: an unknown luxury brand cannot accumulate the symbolic capital needed to endow its clients with status and respect'

PAGE 3

Horizontal expansion has occurred due to the conquest of the BRIC and MINT countries. 'An example is the success of Louis Vuitton in China: the brand now symbolises the economic success of the country itself.'

'Diversification is also an answer to the problem created by new clients of luxury-that is, the absence of loyalty. New clients choose brands by contagion of desire, not by adhesion to their values, nor by connoisseurship.'

PAGE 4
'How-will the luxury sector overcome the chasm between the images it promotes-continuously defining luxury as rare, noble, crafted, exclusive, spirited, elevating and servicing-and the realities of business growth.'

'the rise of 'abundant rarity''
'artification' of luxury

PAGE 88
'Luxury is tied to the social hierarchy. Premium goods are just better goods: they are the best-in-class products, after examination of their comparative performance. Luxury is elsewhere. No comparison here, except between people themselves and their ability to stand out.'

PAGE 89
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THE CLUB MEMBERSHIP PARADOX

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Groucho Marx famously resigned from a Hollywood club, and in his resignation letter he said ‘I don’t care to belong to any club that will have me as a member’. (Ramsden, 2015)

Ramsden, A., 2015. The club membership paradox. [online] SpinningHead. Available at: [Accessed 30 June 2021].

Secrets of the Superbrands: Fashion

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The Pyramid model. The top is where you build the image and the bottom is where you exploit it and bring in the cash.

(Daniella Westbrooks)The Burberry check becoming popular with football hooligans and chavs. Burberry lost control of its own image which in turn affected it's revenue. This only happened in Britain and money was only lost here but it spread and affected world-wide opinions of the brand.

The pleasure centre in the brain lights up when the woman sees the designer handbags. craving and addictions when looking at super luxury brands. expensive items trigger deep emotions

Dr Peter Hughes (Marketing Psychologist)- "ostentation and extravagance taken to the ultimate limit"

the luxury brands tap into our instinct to pro-create but the high street brands

Persuasive calls to action

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Deployed on the relevant platforms

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Maximise ROI

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exasperated

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disrupted

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'In a globalized world where sales are global and supply chains extremely complex there are undeniable heavy global inter-dependencies.'
'The world entered this crisis with increased rhetoric of protectionist tariffs and Brexit.' (Alexandra Pastore, 2020)

Alexandra Pastore, R., 2020. Supply Diversification — A Luxury for Luxury?. [online] WWD. Available at: [Accessed 4 July 2021].

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“The best performing luxury brands have adjusted their strategies to reflect the growing importance of youth fashion consumers.”

Samantha Dover, Senior Retail Analyst at Mintel

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'underestimating Gen Z’s importance is dangerous and can put a brand’s future in peril. That’s because this generation is, in many ways, the most discerning group of consumers. They are the most digital, the best informed, have the highest expectations, and are the least loyal.'-(Why Focusing on Gen Z Is A Matter Of Survival For Luxury Brands | Jing Daily, 2021)

The high expectations for experiences, the strong focus on personal branding, and the reduced attachment to always buying the same brand make Gen Z the most difficult generation to win over.

Jing Daily. 2021. Why Focusing on Gen Z Is A Matter Of Survival For Luxury Brands | Jing Daily. [online] Available at: [Accessed 4 July 2021].

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In a recent conversation with... I confirmed/discovered that...

Scrutiny regarding sustainability

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decisive criteria for consumers

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brand equity definitions

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generate actionable real-time insights

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Key Takeaways (Put in to the overview at the beginning of the report).

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The largest and most influential luxury brands haven’t just returned to form; they’re now performing better than in 2019 — a record year in the industry.
History has shown that luxury is, in fact, the most resilient category after recessions and economic downturns, with recoveries that are dramatically faster and stronger than non-luxury sectors.
The influence of Generation Z — customers who are now 25 years of age or younger — has increased significantly. Their viewpoints, habits, preferences, and opinions have shaped the entire luxury market in a shorter time frame than any generation before it.

They are by far the wealthiest generation to ever enter the market.

translates into purchase behavior

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Conundrum

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the mental process behind these feelings

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reconciling facts and theory

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Use the beginning when Virgil is speaking for the beginning of the mini clip that I will be making to introduce my presentation.

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Use clip from 1:42 to 2:07

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Use 1:52 to 2:18
4:35 to 4:50

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5:47 to 5:53
6:52 to 6:58
23:16 to end

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0:55 to 1:02

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0:49 to 0:57

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2:11 to 2:17

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1:00 to 1:09
1:24 to 1:30
1:33 to 1:42

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TIMELINES

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CONTENTS PAGE

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Front Page Mapping

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https://www.canva.com/design/DAEl4kQQdkc/1RJpuCJwvwXm6LrJ8AcFeA/view?utm_content=DAEl4kQQdkc&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link&utm_source=homepage_design_menu

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https://youtu.be/FhCGa8cKLuU

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As I prefer writing by hand as opposed to typing, many of my notes and planning are on physical paper.

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