Making a Waistcoat by Harry Clarke https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa en-us 2017-02-04 23:41:06 UTC 2023-01-19 05:55:01 UTC hello@padlet.com Step 9 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631398 2017-02-04 23:45:39 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631398 Step 2 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631463 Baste canvas to front panel of waistcoat, as indicated. ]]> 2017-02-04 23:49:28 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631463 The Art of Garment Making Chap V: Waistcoats - Various Styles harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631479 2017-02-04 23:50:14 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631479 Step 5 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631567 Trim canvas of front panels, using the measurements indicated in the diagram below. Trim 0.5cm above hem
Note that the diagram indicates that 1cm is trimmed away along the side edge below armhole. HOWEVER this is not necessary to be trimmed and thus would otherwise not require any tape on this side. ]]> 2017-02-04 23:55:31 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631567 Step 13 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631674 For front lining, cut a large rectangle of lining much larger than the front panel. 
Use dry heat to make a 1cm pleat running through the centre of the waistcoat, curving slightly through the chest area.
Baste in position, and then baste again to waistcoat, adding approx. 2cm of fullness to the chest area. ]]> 2017-02-04 23:59:54 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631674 Step 14 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631724 Trim lining to shape of front panel, 1cm larger around armhole and hem, 2cm larger across centre front. 
Fold under lining a couple of mm smaller than waistcoat around armhole and hem, 1cm along upper front and about 4cm through the button stand. Baste in place, before felling all around. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:02:04 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631724 Lay plan for back lining harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631788 2017-02-05 00:04:16 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631788 Step 10 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631932 Cross stitch facing and hem to canvas, using matching thread to waistcoat.
Where the facing hasn't been machine stitched, fold seam allowance inwards so that it is not flush with the edge. 
Also fold armhole in 1cm and cross stitch. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:11:54 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151631932 Step 6 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632019 Baste tape around the edges on the front panels, all except the shoulder edge. 
On curved edges, such as armhole and front chest, use ease to add shape to the garment. This is done using a few tight back stitches to ripple the fabric slightly. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:16:18 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632019 Step 11 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632311 Snip into side edge approx. 1cm, 5cm up from hem. 
Fold in the lower side edge and hem in one continuous line. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:32:51 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632311 Step 8 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632403 Baste lower facing to waistcoat front, right sides together. 
Machine stitch foot width, curving up 2cm to along the fold line of upper facing. Do the same for the hem, stitching along fold line 2cm out. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:37:34 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632403 Step 12 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632553 Turn hem up, making sure that the folded edge is not flush with the edge of the garment. Fell the seam closed, and cross stitch hem.]]> 2017-02-05 00:45:13 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632553 Step 7 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632613 Once all the tape has been basted, the next step will be to serge stitch the inner edges of the tape, using matching thread to the waistcoat.
This stitch is only meant to catch the inside of the fabric, beneath canvas, and should not show on the right side of garment. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:48:09 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632613 Step 4 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632661 Fix inlay of welt pocket using raw edge felling, anf then attach pocket bag using the felling stitch. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:50:33 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632661 Step 3 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632780 Make up welt pockets in the position indicated, using the steps learnt in term 2. ]]> 2017-02-05 00:55:56 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/151632780 Step 1 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152938098 Cut pattern pieces and use mark stitch to indicate facing, hem, pocket and dart on all sides.
Sew darts in front panels, one on each side. Do the same for the canvas, position the dart slightly towards the left of the original dart, to prevent bulk. This dart is cut out, and a thin strip of canvas is stitched over the closed dart and reinforced with zig zag stitches.]]> 2017-02-09 22:25:55 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152938098 Step 9 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152943280 Fold facing to inside, making sure that the seam is folded a couple of mm inwards so that it is not visible on the outside.
Where the facing hasn't been machine stitched, fold seam allowance inwards so that it is not flush with the edge. ]]> 2017-02-09 23:10:35 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152943280 Step 15 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152952554 Stitch centre back panels together, both for inside lining and outside lining. Press seams open. Fold strap pieces in half, right sides together, and stitch 1cm from edge. Turn out.]]> 2017-02-10 00:53:20 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152952554 Step 16 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152952792 Attach straps to outside back lining by machine stitching in place. Prick stitch straps 10cm in from side edge. ]]> 2017-02-10 00:55:20 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152952792 Step 17 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152952951 Baste back linings inside and outside to front panels and stitch together, leaving a gap on one side seam that is big enough for a hand. ]]> 2017-02-10 00:56:50 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152952951 Step 18 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152953121 Bag out waistcoat and press edges of lining 2mm inwards. Side stitch all around waistcoat edges, and side stitch all around lining edges.]]> 2017-02-10 00:58:25 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/152953121 Process of making/fitting a waistcoat harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766523 After the cloth has been striked and the pattern has been cut, the waistcoat should be basted together ready for fitting the customer. ]]> 2017-02-18 23:55:40 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766523 Important factors when taking measurements: harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766626 1. The customer should stand in a relaxed position to ensure the garment will fit their natural posture. 
2. When measuring, ensure ease is given so that the garment has room for movement and is not too tight. 
3. Measure the correct areas of the body so that the proportions are correct when making the garment. ]]> 2017-02-18 23:59:31 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766626 Baste fittings harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766700 The skeleton /rough baste:
The pocket positions are shown using mark stitches. The jacket is still canvased to give it shape. But all the darts and side seams are ‘basted’ together temporarily. Skeleton basted jackets are created when the jacket is particularly unusual or the positioning of the pockets, hems or front edges are likely to change.

Pocket baste:
The pockets and darts are sewn into the jacket. This is used when a customer’s body shape has changed through weight loss or gain.

Forward fitting:
The facings are on the jacket, the pockets and darts are all sewn in and the seams are temporarily basted in.
]]> 2017-02-19 00:02:38 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766700 harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766774 2017-02-19 00:05:59 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766774 Basted Fitting harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766812 In the world of bespoke tailoring, nothing is more important than the "basted fitting". This is the essential, time-honored process of fitting the suit on the client's body as it morphs from a mere piece of cloth into an impeccably tailored bespoke suit. It takes 3-7 basted fittings to accomplish this, and the amount of fittings is totally dependent on the ease or difficulty of the client's particular physique and body type.]]> 2017-02-19 00:08:12 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766812 Fabrics and Trimmings used in the making of the Waistcoat harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766874 1. Wool check fabric.
2. Canvas/linen.
3. Silesia (pocketing).
3. Polyester lining.
4. Basting thread.
5. Waxed thread.

]]> 2017-02-19 00:11:54 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766874 Preparation for Fabric harry_clarke97 https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766922 Before the garment can be cut and assembled, the fabric needs to be pressed and shrunk. To do this, steam is applied to the wrong side, without the iron touching the fabric. The air bed is used in conjunction with this, as a means of setting the fabric. ]]> 2017-02-19 00:14:37 UTC https://padlet.com/harry_clarke97/oyi4o4sfcwaa/wish/154766922