Easiest to work with, dries fast and gradients nicely

Card does bend after dried

Acrylic on smooth side:

Dries blotty but gives and a cool texture look to it

Might be too reflective when filming

Watercolour on rough side:

Has a matte look, abit hard to mix gradients but I like the result of the texture

Card does bend after dried

Watercolour on smooth side:

Was hard to apply an even layer, Layering is not effective as it’s only sticking to the surface of the card. (Least likely to use this combination

Reason : Faster method to construct scene since its only for the establishing shot, waste less materials and doesn't require to use the cook workshop.

• Material : Card

• Final size will be bigger

1. Card rough side

2. Card glossy side

3. Watercolour paper

Results :

1. has a nice even gradient swatch (i'm also out of practice with watercolour), has a nice texture and dries pretty fast too

2. Does not blend and dry well on glossy side, uneven gradient. Colour will and can be easily ruined by sweaty hands, which I have, or any water

3. Watercolour paper works as it should, even gradient, give a nice texture too but paper is a bit flimsy so I would have to be careful with transporting the set or putting it in the box. Problem : finding a way to keep it nice and flat while building and filming

   
   

Paints on easily, dries fast and evenly

Has a nice texture took

Smooth Side :

Paint does not apply smoothly but is better when water is mixed in

Gives a shiny yet matte look after is dries

Not great when doing gradient

1. show the most of set to establish the location and show majority of the props and character as a whole

2. Warm light as the set of mostly has warm tones of yellow, orange and a wide spectrum of browns

3. Placement of tables to show a form of depth to the scene and crowded. While still focused characters but still show some details from the set (e.g table details and the bottles on the shelve

Feedback :

1. Lighting is quite harsh for the top, causing the character to reflect too much light

2. Since only one lighting was used in this test, it does gives atmosphere of a bar which is usually ally dimly lighted ( light fairy were then suggested )

3. Move the set closer and further from the camera to give it more depth

They were painted with brown acrylic paint, followed by a light wash of lighter brown for the finish. In total, eight stools were made.

The barrel is made from card paper, measured for a 7 cm diameter (wider part) and a 5 cm diameter (smaller part). It was divided and scored to form a cylindrical shape. The bands around the barrel, which mimic the steel rings that hold a barrel together, are also made from cardstock. These bands were cut to the same dimensions as the barrel but made slightly larger so they would fit snugly. They were then stuck together with double-sided tape for a clean finish.

Both parts are glued together with UHU along the inner walls of the barrel.

A total of three barrel tables were made, with different bottles and pint glasses arranged accordingly and held down with glue dots.

Sizing down the dimensions of an A3 poster. The designing was painted on card paper with acrylics and markers for finer details with the frame made of plywood.

Process:

1. The materials were provided by the cook workshop, and the building of the set was taught by Arron.

2. First, the base was painted white to cover the filling from the screws that held it together.

3. Since our set theme was a bar, it was painted brown, and the flooring base was painted black.

The current post colour is white.

After all the planks were made, I measured out a sheet of waxed paper, about 60 cm by 60 cm, and proceeded to glue the planks using white glue in a brick-bond design.

The flooring was then painted a light brown.

When it came to the beer taps, 3D printing was definitely the best decision. The design I used, which was based on actual old beer taps, included many small, intricate details that would have been impossible to replicate by hand.

All the assets were painted by hand with acrylics and finished with a layer of Mod Podge.

1) Hair

The hair was made of air-dry clay. I opted for a layered hairstyle with bangs in the front. I made slight scoring lines in the hair to indicate the direction of the strands, which eventually lead to the tuft on top of her head. It was painted with dark brown acrylic paint.

2) Face and Main Body

The face and main body were made from wood, with a wire armature (as taught). The ear and nose were also carved from wood, as I wanted them to have a more doll-like appearance and feel like one cohesive piece. I painted everything with beige acrylic paint.
For the face, I used black plasticine. In the future, I would like to add magnets so I can change her facial expressions.

3) Arms and Legs

The wire armatures are wrapped in a layer of padding, sewn on, and then covered with a layer of skin wrap (sorry, I can’t remember the exact term for the material). I used tape to secure the ends and applied a bit of white glue to keep the wrap from peeling off.

4) Hands and Feet

This was definitely the most challenging part, as it was my first time making hands and feet. For the hands, I used hot glue with a wire inside for structure. The hands were then attached to the arms using a thinner wire, which I twisted to secure the two parts together. I painted them with beige acrylic to match the skin color.
The feet were made using a similar process, but I painted them with black acrylic for the shoes and used white tape to mimic socks.

5) Clothes

I made the clothes by eyeballing the size of the armature on the fabric and sewing everything together by hand (since the sewing machine was either broken, or I was terrible at figuring out how to use it ;-;).