likely to take place when high-nitrogen (green) materials are used. 

Nitrogen-rich material: apple, banana and egg peels, broccoli waste, artichoke leaves, garden waste, beans, bread, carrots, cucumbers, onions, pineapples, pumpkins, flowers, lettuce, lemons, melons, potatoes, algae.

The space should be covered with animal and vegetable waste stacked 2m wide by the desired length. Then a layer of about 30cm of mixed vegetable waste is applied; then a 5cm layer of animal manure and then a little soil or finished old compost to inoculate the decomposing microorganisms that will start the putrefaction process. These layers should be repeated up to a minimum height of 1.5m, remembering to apply plenty of water to each one to promote humidity.

1. Hydrolysis. This occurs when bacteria transform organic materials into liquified monomers and polymers. 

2. Acidogenesis. Sugars and amino acids are converted to ammonia, volatile fatty acids, and alcohol. 

3. Acetogenesis. The substances are then converted into hydrogen, carbon dioxide, and acetic acid. 

4. Methanogenesis. The methanogenic bacteria convert hydrogen and acetic acid into methane gas and carbon dioxide. Typically, the mixture will also contain hydrogen sulfide, a chemical that smells like rotten eggs. The mix also contains nitrogen, oxygen, and hydrogen.

Anaerobic composting is a form of composting that requires little to no oxygen. In fact, just as aerobic means with air, anaerobic means without air. 

Process

In the process, anaerobic bacteria, i.e. bacteria that do not need air, turn organic material into compost. They also release gases, which include large amounts of methane.

The process occurs naturally in nature in places where there is no or little oxygen – for example in the wetlands that produce peat. It is more likely to take place when high-nitrogen (green) materials are used. 

Pros

Anaerobic composting is often said to involve less work. That does depend on the method you use. 

For example, if you choose a method of composting that requires a lot of turning, aerobic composting can be labor-intensive. However, other methods of aeration require less work. 

Time that it takes

Several weeks to a few months

Moisture: Keep the bedding slightly moist, like a wrung-out sponge. Too much moisture can lead to anaerobic conditions, while too little can dehydrate the worms.

Bedding: Use materials like shredded newspaper, cardboard, coconut coir, or straw as bedding. This provides a habitat and helps with moisture retention.

Food: Feed the worms kitchen scraps like fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds, and crushed eggshells. Avoid meat, dairy, and oily foods, which can attract pests and create odors.

pH Levels: Maintain a neutral pH level (around 6-7). You can add crushed eggshells to help balance the pH.

Aeration: Mix the bedding and food occasionally to prevent compaction and ensure adequate oxygen flow.

Harvesting: Periodically harvest the finished compost to make space for the worms and promote further decomposition.

Pest Control: Keep an eye out for pests like fruit flies. Avoid overfeeding and ensure the lid is secure to minimize infestations.

Worm Type: Use suitable worm species, such as red wigglers (Eisenia fetida), which are best for composting.

The food you give your worms will be very high in water and will provide them with all the moisture they need.