https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy The planning, prep and research behind the costumes of 'Guilty Conscience'. en-us 2022-05-14 13:11:23 UTC 2022-05-26 20:16:27 UTC hello@padlet.com https://padlet.net/icons/png/1f3a5.png maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183916961 Throughout the planning process, I looked into a range of different costumes for the prisoners, as our main character 'Kyle' would have lots of screen time in the prison. I started by going really far back in my research to see where prison uniforms began. Although we have limited research into the time before this, uniforms became widely encouraged throughout prisons during the 18th and 19th centuries, as they were thought to instill discipline and remind prisoners of why they were there in the first place (Gibson, 2019). It was thought to have decreased the risk of re-offence, and also made it easier to spot if a convict had escaped. This is where we see our traditional striped black and white uniform come in. 
For our project, we decided to stay away from the traditional 'film prisoner' look of the striped jumpsuits or scrubs, as we didn't want the outfits to remove from the seriousness of the plot. It is also set in modern day, where scrubs and even tracksuits are now more common. 

]]> 2022-05-14 15:14:02 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183916961 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183922672 When researching the best colours to costume people for black and white film, I came across a number of juxtaposing sources, ranging from 1920s silent movie tips, to modern day personal opinions. "Black-and-white film stock reproduces colours as shades of grey that can be substantially different from not only colour stock, but also from the way the human eye perceives colour. For instance, the human eye sees some colours, like green, as brighter than others, like blue. Similarly, black-and-white film stock has its own sensitivities. For example, unlike the human eye, black-and-white stock tends to record blue as a lighter shade of grey than green" (Malkiewicz, 1989). However, with our advancement in modern technology, we no longer have to rely on film stock, as we are using technology instead. As we didn't have lots of time to prep and test out colours for the black and white segments of the film, I decided to use combinations of white and navy blue for all of the prison costumes to create a contrast between characters in scenes, with the navy blue being warmer and therefore showing up less harsh on the screen. ]]> 2022-05-14 15:24:03 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183922672 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183932536 Upon entering the project, I spoke to the director about their vision for the film, specifically the flashback scenes. I wanted some freedom with the costuming of these characters, as the rest of the characters are pretty carved out for us, as they are uniformed. 
In the genre of film that we were dealing with (psychological thriller) we tend to see a lot of flash back scenes that take from romanticised eras, such as the 1940s and 60s. For our generation, many romance films or tear jerker films are set in war-times, as we find it easier to romanticise this time before we were here, specifically the dress code of the time. 1940's day dresses and nightwear tend to come in top for flashback scenes, as their floaty nature and innocent significance help us to see the characters in a different time, one that is created solely based on the way they look and interact with each other. There has also been a large surge of 1960's fashion throughout all industries -starting with the release of 'Once upon a time in Hollywood' (Tarantino, 2019)- that we, as a younger audience link to Sharon Tate, and her tragic passing, as well as her beloved innocence. This makes both of these eras great candidates for costumes for flashback scenes, as it makes our characters more likeable and easy to emote with. ]]> 2022-05-14 15:40:39 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183932536 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183957938 After buying the prisoner jumpsuits, I wanted to make sure that they looked lived in and fit each character perfectly. One thing that I really enjoy about costume is creating a character, right down to the small details about them. The jumpsuits arrived the day before we had to film in them, so I had to get creative with some late night DIY. 
Growing up, I had done multiple projects that involved using tea and coffee to stain and age clothing quickly. I sent Georgia home with the shoes and asked her to tea stain two pairs, while leaving one pair clean (for Kyle). 
I proceeded to stain two jumpsuits with tea and coffee and laid them out to dry for an hour while I created the prisoner numbers. 
I had no access to fabric paint, so I ended up trying two different options, embroidery and tip-ex. After two attempts at embroidering numbers onto some old jersey fabric that I was practicing on (so as to be as eco-friendly as possible) I decided that the tip-ex would be much quicker and would look more authentic to the world that we were creating. I measured and cut out three 3x7 inch rectangles for each of the prisoners from the black jersey fabric that I had and got to work. In the end I decided to only do the two inmates numbers that would be showing (Kyle and Bennie), in order to save time and materials. 
By the time I had finished this, I looked back at the jumpsuits and realised that the hadn't 'aged' the way that I wanted them to, so I had to get creative. I used orange peel to further stain both jumpsuits then I tried both on and went outside on my balcony to use the rough surfaces to break up some of the cleanliness and stiffness in the suits. I was happy with the result after this, so I took them back inside, stitched on the prisoner numbers, and hung them up ready to take in the following day. ]]> 2022-05-14 16:21:02 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183957938 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183962742 Kyle's costumes were both set to make us more drawn to him. His jumpsuit was decided to be pristine, as if he had hardly moved or lived since being in prison, and also to reflect his surrender to his sins. His suit outfit was modelled based on Hollywood's golden age of smart, trustworthy male characters. We wanted his flashback scenes to give us a sense of who he really was- the un-knowing hero of the film. ]]> 2022-05-14 16:29:31 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183962742 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183963857 Bennie's jumpsuit was the most stained and worn in of all. Bennie had been in prison a long time and felt no remorse for what he did, and we wanted his jumpsuit to reflect his mind. The contrast it creates with both Kyle and Charlotte really helps us to paint him as the 'bad guy'.]]> 2022-05-14 16:31:23 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183963857 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183965955 Don wears his jumpsuit around his waist. He has found comfort in his new surroundings and has accepted what he has done and how it has affected him. He is significantly less worn in than Bennie, but still looks dirty from the time spent in prison. He wears a gold chain necklace with a 'lucky fish' charm on it, that signifies he still has an essence and connection to the outside world. He has not given up yet. ]]> 2022-05-14 16:34:49 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183965955 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183969464 Paul and Prison Guard 1 wear identical navy blue shirts with a clip on tie. When searching for officer outfits, from the start, I wanted to go with a navy blue shirt instead a pale blue one (that could've been provided by the costume store), not only because it works with my colour theory research, but it creates a bigger contrast between characters. The shirts that were provided were linen utility shirts that had double pockets and a smart uniformed look. The tie was shared between both characters, yet worn slightly different - Paul had to look dishevelled while Prison Guard 1 was much more put together. Paired with black smart trousers and smart shoes, it gave the perfect prison officer feel. ]]> 2022-05-14 16:40:38 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183969464 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183974645 Sarah's first outfit consisted of a silk pink dress modelled off 1940's day dresses and nightwear. The pale pink of the dress gives us a ghostly feel, while the silk makes for an almost ethereal image on camera. I paired this with a white corset to create a look that was loosely based on vintage ghost lady sightings such as the 'white lady' and the 'lady in red'. for the scene in which Sarah is stabbed, we removed the corset and I painted a blood-like stain on her dress where she had been stabbed. This was a last minute adjustment that really payed off. Finally we see Sarah frolicking with Kyle in the meadows in a dress that combines both the 1940s and 1960s aesthetic. It is a shorted 1940s silhouette with flute sleeves and an empire waist that has a soft 1960's floral pattern to it. I paired this dress with black Dr Martens for a modern feel that was inspired by the Netflix show 'Behind Her Eyes' (2021). ]]> 2022-05-14 16:50:22 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183974645 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183975093 Charlotte's costume was a nod to the classic hippie fashion of the summer of love. Her hair-scarf and cropped peasant blouse bring a modern take to the classic look. Paired with high-waisted flared jeans, a brown belt and converse, Charlotte is the epitome of innocence. ]]> 2022-05-14 16:51:03 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183975093 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183975282 The Governor's costume aimed to pay homage to the women's power-suit of the 80's and 90's. With a strong structured blazer and straight leg suit trousers in a matching navy blue pinstripe, she stands out from the rest of the staff. Paired with some minimalistic jewellery and pointed toe court shoes, this character has an iconic look that has been used for strong women in film throughout the years. It has a modern and softer twist with the delicate jewellery, but the harshness of the tailoring, complete with a smart shirt, makes this character unforgettable. ]]> 2022-05-14 16:51:20 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183975282 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183975401 The hooded figure may seem like an easy costume, but getting the proportions of the clothing right was what played a massive part in perfecting this one. We opted for an oversized black hooded pullover paired with black straight leg joggers to give more of a shroud look. Again with this character being 'ghostly' the use of heavy oversized silhouettes made this character more ominous. ]]> 2022-05-14 16:51:36 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183975401 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183981558 One of the main aims for my contribution to this project was that it be as eco-friendly and re-useable as possible. We utilised as much of my own wardrobe as possible for the project, as well as speaking with the university costume department prior to the shoot dates. In the end, we had to order some of the outfits (prisoner and guard) online, as the department either didn't have enough of the costume we needed, or simply didn't want us to adjust them as needed. However, through using my own wardrobe, and using household products for modification, we managed to stay around our budget of £100 for all 11 outfits that we had to supply! All outfits were donated to the other film and/or charity shops after wrapping, as we had no need for them and wanted them to get some wear. ]]> 2022-05-14 17:02:53 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183981558 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183981734 I applied for the costume role in this film, due to my interest in colour theory and uniforms within film. Prior to my interview, I watched multiple films/series that involved civil service uniform and prison uniform to get a sense of the portrayal that these iconic pieces are getting in current programmes. The variety was vast. I decided that I wanted to use inspiration from both mental asylums and traditional prisoner uniforms to portray the messages of the film. I aimed to create a subtle dystopian feel with my overall look and explore the different eras that inspire what we see in TV and film today. I also wanted this project to create as little waste as possible, so I opted to make a list of each of the outfits that we acquired and what I could do with them once we wrapped filming. ]]> 2022-05-14 17:03:12 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183981734 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183982095 When creating the Governor's outfit, I wanted to combine modern and classical silhouettes to create a high fashion take on this strong female lead. Often we associate pant suits and pinstripe with businessMEN, and I wanted to take this and make it something that had a little more softness to it. With the contrast and juxtaposition of the dainty modern jewellery, and the pointy stiletto heel, the fitted pant-suit gives us a smooth transition between both sides of the outfit. It balances the harshness and gives us a put- together iconic look, that I am sure we will be seeing more of on the big screen over the next couple of years. ]]> 2022-05-14 17:03:48 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183982095 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183982684 Throughout filming days, we had to ensure that costume stayed looking how it was between takes. This meant ensuring that we took all the steps prior to filming to make the upkeep as easy as possible. Costumes were stored folded in separate piles with any accessories tucked into shoes after shoot days. As there were rarely any days in between needing outfits, this minimalised the risk of creasing (although the boiler-suits were bought specifically in a heavy material to decrease risk of creasing over short periods of time). We opted for a heavy cotton, denim or polycotton for most of our costumes, as it decreased the need for ironing between shoot days and possibly changing the structure and fit of the garments. "A blend of cotton (60%) and polyester (40%) fibres to improve the properties of each, cotton has poor elasticity and creases but polyester has good elasticity so doesn’t crease, cotton is absorbent so comfortable to wear but polyester isn’t absorbent so doesn’t let the skin breathe as well" - Polycotton explained (BBC, 2022).
All items that were used in the film were washed immediately before shooting and after they had been finished with to avoid damage and/or covid contamination.


]]> 2022-05-14 17:04:55 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183982684 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183983032 My interest in film costume definitely comes from my passion for iconic outfits. Oftentimes, the bases for these outfits starts with colour theory; all colour within film/art can be read by an audience and therefore has some common meanings. This basic colour wheel shows what colours we can begin to use to create certain emotions and connections between the characters and our audience. As you can see, I used white to represent innocence and purity within Kyle, but dirtied the costumes for the other two inmates to possibly cut off that connection. I also used hues of blue for the guards, to represent their wisdom, and pinks in the flashback scenes to amp up the romantic feel. ]]> 2022-05-14 17:05:33 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2183983032 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2198004033 2022-05-24 16:41:16 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2198004033 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199168329 Here are some notes from the first meeting that we had on the project. There are some rough ideas on costumes and dates for production on here. ]]> 2022-05-25 10:06:17 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199168329 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199183412 2022-05-25 10:22:43 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199183412 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199184520 2022-05-25 10:23:50 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199184520 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199185562 2022-05-25 10:25:03 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199185562 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199186340 2022-05-25 10:25:52 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199186340 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199187309 2022-05-25 10:26:55 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199187309 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199211939 http://www.screeningthepast.com/issue-39-first-release/designing-for-black-and-white-edith-head-and-the-craft-of-the-costume-designer/

]]> 2022-05-25 10:55:22 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199211939 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199212255 https://www.ranker.com/list/prison-uniform-evolution/nathan-gibson]]> 2022-05-25 10:55:45 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199212255 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199213479 https://www.boredpanda.com/the-addams-familys-living-room-was-actually-pink/?utm_source=uk.search.yahoo&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=organic]]> 2022-05-25 10:56:43 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199213479 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199213834 https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/z74bcj6/revision/5]]> 2022-05-25 10:57:08 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199213834 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199214750 https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/632474341393630823/]]> 2022-05-25 10:58:04 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199214750 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199216034 2022-05-25 10:58:52 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2199216034 maspinall11 https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2201271331 2022-05-26 19:14:18 UTC https://padlet.com/maspinall11/fmgbrrj1iovziwdy/wish/2201271331