Tailoring garment construction Q&A by Sonny Di Nardo https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk en-us 2017-02-08 23:13:40 UTC 2017-02-08 23:23:52 UTC hello@padlet.com sonnydinardo https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152644953

  • When taking measurement you should have one finger behind the tape otherwise the final outcome would be too tight.  The person should also stand in their natural posture to ensure all measurements are accurate.



    • ]]>     2017-02-08 23:17:04 UTC https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152644953     sonnydinardo https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152644996

  • After the waistcoat has been stroked and cut it is then basted for fitting for the customer.



    • ]]>     2017-02-08 23:17:31 UTC https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152644996     sonnydinardo https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645042

  • The fabrics and trimmings used to perform a baste fit is the fabric of choice (grey wool), waist coat canvas, and basting thread.



    • ]]>     2017-02-08 23:17:54 UTC https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645042     4. The different types of base fitting are the skeleton base, forward and final. Each one is very important as these fittings are what make a bespoke suit fit you perfectly. sonnydinardo https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645096 2017-02-08 23:18:22 UTC https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645096 6. When laying out the pattern before cutting the patterns should be cut with as little waist so the blocks should be close together, some blocks should be cut on the grain sonnydinardo https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645150 2017-02-08 23:18:50 UTC https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645150 Tailoring garment construction 1. When taking measurement you should have one finger behind the tape otherwise the final outcome would be too tight. The person should also stand in their natural posture to ensure all measurements are accurate.2. After the waistcoat has been stroked and cut it is then basted for fitting for the customer.3. The fabrics and trimmings used to perform a baste fit is the fabric of choice (grey wool), waist coat canvas, and basting thread.4. The different types of base fitting are the skeleton base, forward and final. Each one is very important as these fittings are what make a bespoke suit fit you perfectly.5. 6. When laying out the pattern before cutting the patterns should be cut with as little waist so the blocks should be close together, some blocks should be cut on the grain 7. Making waistcoat• Copy the pattern block on the grain line and cut out on the right side• Chalk out pattern (on the right side) ie: notches and markings which are on the pattern block• Mark stitch all relevant marking on the fabric with basting threadDart• Secure the dart using basting stitch• Cut out a strip of Silesia and pin it to the dart• Sew in the dart and the Silesia• Cut the dart half way up to the Silesia• Press open and press the top half to one sideCanvas • Place the waistcoat fronts over the canvas and cut out the canvas flush to the waistcoat• Cut out the same size dart as the waistcoat front so that it’s flush with the waistcoat• Cut out a strip of linen and place over the cut out dart• Zig-zag stitch and follow with two normal stitches to secure the dartAttaching canvas to waistcoat• Attach by a normal basting stitch• The first stitch is a diagonal stitch which goes over the top of the dart• When basting it is important to smooth out the material in order to remove any creases• Trim the edges of the canvas in line with the waistcoat• Place linen strip on the arm hole and hem and pull tight so that it gathers in the middlePockets• Measure the distance of the pocket markings from the block and create a welt pocket on both sides of the waistcoat• Create a pocket bag by cutting on the double by the using the pocket bag blockAttaching the facing• Place the facing on the correct markings on the waistcoat• Machine stitch it on with a foot space gap• Baste along the front edge so that it stays in place Hem• Roll the facing to the wrongside at the bottom hem, chest roll line and arm hole• Baste to secure• These should be folded along the mark stitchesFront lining• Place the lining on top of the waistcoat pieces and mark the middle point on the top, middle and bottom• Connect all three with chalk which should be curved• Using the vacuum create a 1 cm pleat and baste closed• Place the lining on the waistcoat and attach the lining by basting down the pleat but creating tension down the middle for purpose of ease • Roll in the raw edges and fell them securely to the waistcoatBack lining• Sew the two back pieces by stitching down the back using the sewing machine• Press open all seems• Do the same with the other two back pieces• Put right side to right side and sew along the bottom with a 1 cm seem allowance• Baste waistcoat front pieces to the back lining• Create the strap • Health and safety • Posture when hand sewing, basting and working on the machine to prevent back injury• Burning yourself with the iron • Pricking yourself with the needle when hand sewing • Using the industrial machine can cause injury• Keeping fingers away from the blade when cutting material • Pricking your finger when pinning the lining onto the waistcoat sonnydinardo https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645650 2017-02-08 23:23:41 UTC https://padlet.com/sonnydinardo/csm88tpcf7sk/wish/152645650