Hydroxy acids are a class of organic acid commonly used in skin care products. Made up of two main categories – alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) – these ingredients form a class of compounds with a diverse range of benefits for the skin.

Both AHAs and BHAs have proved popular as active ingredients for skin care products due to their ability to modulate skin structure and performance – offering the power to exfoliate, hydrate and improve the health and appearance of skin, including skin affected by aging, acne and hyperpigmentation. 

It’s important to use both AHAs and BHAs in the right concentration and frequency, as excessive use can cause skin irritation or sensitivity. 

Types of AHAs acids:

- glycolic acid (GA)

- citric acid (CA)

- malic acid (MA)

- tartaric acid (TA)

- lactic acid (LA)

Benefits of AHAs:

-  gentle exfoliation

-  improving skin texture

-  reducing the visible signs of aging

-  reducing hyperpigmentation, melasma, and sun damage

-  reducing acne

Types of BHAs acids:

-  salicylic acid

-  beta-hydroxybutanoic acid

-  tropic acid

-  trethocanic acid

Benefits of BHAs:

-  reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines on the skin  

-  improve the skin’s overall texture

-  salicylic acid is a common ingredient in acne products

Another acid that cannot be omitted from your skin care routine is azelaic acid.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, wheat, and rye.

Because it takes some time to take effect, azelaic acid by itself isn’t typically a dermatologist’s first choice for treating acne. The acid also has some side effects, such as skin burning, dryness, and peeling.

Azelaic acid works by:

- clearing your pores of bacteria that may be causing irritation or breakout

- reducing inflammation so acne becomes less visible, less red, and less irritate 

- gently encouraging cell turnover so your skin heals more quickly and scarring is minimized

Hyaluronic acid is a compound found naturally in the skin, where it binds to water to help retain moisture. The key benefit of hyaluronic acid is hydration and that ability to retain moisture.

Benefits of Hyaluronic acid:

-  hydrates skin

-  helps heal wounds

-  smooths skin texture

-  anti-aging

-  reduces dermatitis

Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is an ingredient added to skin creams, lotions and serums. It has anti-aging effects and can help clear acne. Retinol increases skin cell production (proliferation). It helps unclog pores. Retinol also exfoliates your skin and increases collagen production, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Since retinol can irritate your skin, it’s best to start slow. After a patch test, you might use a product once every few days, and then gradually ramp up to once or twice per day. At first, you might experience redness, itching or burning, but these symptoms go away as your skin gets used to the treatment.

Retinol is used for:

-  acne and acne scars

-  dark spots

-  large pores

-  melasma

-  wrinkles

Most of us know the importance of wearing sunscreen in the summer months to avoid sunburn and damage, but it really should be a year-round preventive health measure. Always wear sunscreen, no matter your skin color or tone.

Some people think they only need sunscreen when they are going to the beach or are going to be exposed to the sun for a long period of time. Other people know they should be wearing sunscreen every day, but they don’t. Many people only have their sunscreen handy during the summer months, but you need to wear sunscreen everyday whether it’s sunny or cloudy. It is really important to remember to wear your sunscreen every day or you may be putting your skin at risk.

Ultraviolet rays are always present, and they are the cause of sun damage and skin cancer. Ultraviolet rays are not blocked by the clouds so even if the sun isn’t visible, you’re still exposed to ultraviolet rays. Sunscreen blocks these rays and reduces your chances of getting a sunburn.

Sunscreen offers terrific benefits for the skin, including:

• minimizes redness of the skin

• protects the skin from the harmful rays of the sun (ultraviolet rays)

• improves skin health by protecting the elements of the skin like protein or collagen

• protects the skin for a more extended period from exposure to the sun

• sunscreen helps control skin inflammation

• helps protect the skin from discoloration leading to a smooth, even skin tone

• helps prevent heat exhaustion and sunburn that could put you at risk of skin cancer

• protects the skin’s antioxidant defense system by preventing the formation of free radicles

• prevents the early signs of premature aging, such as sunspots, sagging, dry skin, wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation, and photodamage

There are various sunscreen products on the market. Choosing one that covers all your skin needs, protecting you from the early signs of aging and sun damage is significant damage. A broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher protects the skin from UVA and UVB rays. SPF 15 is ideal for occasional exposure, while SPF 30 is ideal for extended outdoor activities.

The protection offered by sunscreens of different SPFs is as follows:

• SPF 15 blocks about 93 percent of all UVB rays

• SPF 30 filters out 97 percent

• SPF 50 is an almost complete UVB block, at 98 percent

A skin cycling routine is typically a four-night rotation, consisting of one night of exfoliation with AHAs/PHAs/BHAs, one night incorporating retinoids, then two nights of R&R with a gentle, nourishing routine.

The goal of skin cycling is to allow active chemicals to benefit your skin without compromising the skin's protective layer. Overuse of actives like exfoliating acids and retinoids can lead to signs of skin barrier damage like dryness, peeling, breakouts and increased sensitivity. Alternating two nights of actives with two nights of recovery allows your skin time to repair itself, avoiding over-exfoliation and preventing irritation.

The rotation begins with exfoliation on the first night, followed by a retinoid serum on the second night, then nights three and four are dedicated to recovery with hydrating, skin barrier-strengthening skincare. Then repeat.

Night No. 1: Exfoliation

You should start your exfoliation routine with a cleanser. Your skin must be clean and ready for the next step. It is best to use a chemical exfoliant to smooth and renew the look of skin, buff away dead skin cells and prime your skin for the rest of your skin cycle.  

Not only does exfoliation rid the skin of dead cells, but it can also improve skin texture and help other skin-care ingredients absorb effectively into the skin barrier.

Do not forget to use a moisturizer after exfoliating and a SPF during the day.

Night No. 2: Retinoids

This night is focused on retinoids, which are vitamin A derivatives that can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

The second night of the skin-cycling routine begins with cleansing, then a pea-size amount of retinol, followed by a layer of moisturizer as the final step. During the day, it is recommended to use a SPF.

Nights No. 3 and 4: Recovery

The recovery period, typically nights three and four, is the final step.

Firstly, use a mild cleanser or even perform a double cleanse to wash the day away. A hyaluronic acid serum can help if you think your skin needs an extra dose of hydration, according to the experts. And finally, apply your moisturizer. Step four, optional: To keep the moisture in your skin, you can use a face oil to get extra recovery.

According to specialists, the order of application is very important, because the skin is structured to block the penetration of foreign substances, as a method of self-defense.

The golden rule, and the simplest, is to apply the products in order of density. Therefore, the most fluid products will be applied first, and the densest ones at the end.

Morning routine

The morning routine should include cleansing, photoprotection, antioxidant ingredients and hydration. Thus, the first step is to apply a water-soluble cleaning product, which has the role of removing accumulated impurities from the bedding and excess sebum from overnight.

The second step is toning the skin with a liquid, moisturizing toner, which has the role of preparing the skin for the following products.

The third step is to apply a product that will protect your face from environmental factors such as dust and pollution. So, you will need a serum with antioxidant properties (serum with vitamin C).

The next step is to apply the eye cream. 

Step five is optional and intended for people with acne-prone skin. So, you will need a topical acne treatment, preferably a concentrated product that is applied directly to the breakouts.

Step six is ​​hydration. If your sun protection product is moisturizing enough, you won't need a separate cream, but if you have dry or atopic skin, then it's recommended to also apply a moisturizer before SPF. In addition, the moisturizer will seal all previously applied products, which will allow better absorption of the active ingredients. 

The last step is to apply sunscreen.

Evening routine

The first step is to remove make-up, preferably with an oil-soluble cleanser. It is important to choose the lightest possible products that gently remove impurities and effectively cleanse the skin.

The next step involves deep cleansing of the skin, both to remove make-up residues and excess sebum and impurities accumulated during the day. You can use the same cleanser used in the morning routine, or can add an oil cleanser for a double cleansing.

Step three is again, about toning. The same moisturizing toner should be applied after cleansing.

Next comes the eye cream, which can be the same day cream or you can add a retinol-based eye cream, which has a strong anti-aging effect.

Step five is dedicated to treatment. This usually includes exfoliating acids, anti-acne treatments, azelaic acid – for rosacea or melasma, and retinol-based treatments.

The last step is, of course, hydration. You can use the same daily moisturizing cream or, if you feel the need for something more consistent, you can choose a nourishing cream, rich in natural oils.