By incorporating fur, I aim to infuse a touch of luxury and texture, which contrasts beautifully with the sleekness of black spandex. This combination not only embodies a bold, edgy aesthetic but also ensures that the eyepatch remains practical and comfortable for everyday wear. The reversible feature will allow wearers to switch up their look effortlessly, making it a statement piece that can adapt to different styles and occasions.

I am also mindful of ensuring that the eyepatch and the outfit harmonize perfectly, creating a cohesive look that feels intentional and stylish. The overall design will reflect an edgy sensibility, appealing to my target audience while emphasizing self-expression and individuality. This approach aims to challenge conventional notions of fashion, creating an accessory that is not only functional but also a powerful statement of personal style.

Since my target audience is people around my age—late teens to early 20s—I believe drawing inspiration from my own personal style will help make the design more relatable and appealing to this demographic. By incorporating elements that reflect current fashion trends, like fur accents and monochrome palettes, I’m aiming to create a look that feels both practical yet daring. This approach will help ensure that the final product speaks to my chosen demographic 

By focusing on edgy aesthetics and modern styling, I hope to create a garment that allows individuals to confidently express themselves, while still meeting their practical needs. 

For Barriers in fashion our brief was to decide on a target demographic of people who aren't catered to in the fashion industry, I chose to market towards people with a healed eye injury, disfigurement, or are going blind in one eye, and chose to cover that eye with an elastic patch This project not only allows me to explore barriers in fashion but also enables me to contribute positively to an underrepresented demographic. By creating a garment that prioritizes both functionality and style, I hope to challenge existing norms and promote inclusivity within the fashion industry.​

Kit list: -tailors chalk –thread – pins –fabric scissors –calico –sewing machine  

Health and safety: when pining the dart in place I had to ensure that I didn’t prick myself  

Kit list -tailors chalk –elastic –calico square –thread – sewing machine – fabric scissors 

Health and safety: when stretching the elastic whilst I sewed it onto the calico I had to be careful when I let it go to ensure that it didn’t snap and flic in my face  

While I appreciate the overall look, I’ve realized it may not be formal enough for an event like the Met Gala. Additionally, I was so focused on translating elements from my designer research that I overlooked Winona Ryder’s personal style. Although this design is edgy and alternative, it lacks the level of sophistication needed to align with her aesthetic. As such, while I admire aspects of this look, it wouldn’t be a suitable choice for her. 

While sketching this look, I envisioned a concept inspired by an alternate ending to Edward Scissorhands. What if Winona Ryder's character, Kim, didn’t leave Edward behind and instead embraced his world, adopting a similarly unconventional, dark aesthetic? This idea formed the foundation of my design, resulting in a dramatic and mysterious ensemble that feels like a natural evolution of their story. 

The standout feature of the dress is the deep cowl neckline paired with an oversized hood, creating a striking and enigmatic silhouette. Due to time constraints, I’ll be constructing this dress on a smaller scale using a fashion doll as my model. While I would prefer to create the piece at a full scale, working with a doll offers unique styling opportunities. For instance, I’ve considered accessorizing the doll with scissors styled as a sword to further tie the design to the Edward Scissorhands theme. 

The dress incorporates beading I was inspired by Alexander McQueen’s EYE collection, with a silver star featured prominently at the center, just beneath the cowl neckline. I was contemplating using two layers of fabric in the design. The top layer will be crafted from black sparkly organza, creating an ethereal shimmer, while the bottom layer will use leather for a bold, structured contrast. This combination will create a unique textural effect that complements the mysterious and edgy theme of the design, and could also represent the contrast between Kim and Edwards characters.  

I imagined this dress as a reflection of Kim’s life "on the run," symbolizing her transformation into a darker, more rebellious version of herself. The all black colour palette, broken only by the silver beading, enhances this sense of secrecy and drama, whilst designing this I was taking lots of inspiration from the first look I talked about by Stephanie Rolland, like how the statement silver necklace, juxtaposes the black dress I wanted to do the same but with beading  

The overarching theme of the Met Gala I’m designing for is "What If I Could Turn Back Time." With that in mind, I created this look as a throwback to the 1990s and the iconic film Edward Scissorhands. It feels like a reimagining of what Winona Ryder might wear if she were to revisit the character of Kim today an homage to the past while embracing a new narrative for her story 

Lastly, using some magazines, I did some more conventional collaging. My aim was to keep it similar to the original photo I took. I quite like that this reminds me of 80's punk subculture, maybe a bit Sex Pistols/ Viv Westwood.  

I will be designing formal wear to appeal to my stylish demographic, that they would wear to a dinner, a party or other special occasion.

I began reading Tarot when I was 14 with my Dad's vintage Tarot deck from the 1980s, The Mythic Tarot by Juliet Sharman-Burke. The illustrations in this deck are based on Greek mythology. Because of the rich symbolism in each card and my own personal connection I decided that Tarot as a theme would be great for inspiration.  

Sharman-Burke, J. and Greene, L. (1986). The Mythic Tarot. 20 Vauxhall Bridge Road, London SW1V2SA: imprint of random century group Ltd. , pp.14–81.

Last Yarn. (2024). Last Yarn - Surplus fabrics in the UK. [online] Available at: https://lastyarn.com/ [Accessed 5 Apr. 2025].

One new thing I thought of doing was having each layer of the dress held up with jump rings, same as on the halter neck, sort of a play on words of "hanged" man. Later when making the toile I decided to scrap this idea because I realised in actuality it wouldn't look that good.

One concern I have about using chiffon is how see-through it is. Adding a lining to the dress could make it look bulky, I'm considering using a slip under the dress to solve this.

I'm pretty happy with the layers, but my experiments are showing that adding a slighter shorter layer on the bottom would make the slit in the side blend and flow better.

Last Yarn. (2024). Last Yarn - Surplus fabrics in the UK. [online] Available at: https://lastyarn.com/ [Accessed 5 Apr. 2025].

The bottom skirt portion I cut the same width as the top. Obviously because, of this when I tried the toile on it didn’t fit because I didn’t account for the hips when I cut it.  I was a bit stumped as to what I could do to make it fit. Making the bottom strip of fabric wider would mean I wouldn't be able to sew it onto the top half and it lay flat. Along-side this I’d probably be left with excess fabric. After getting feedback from my teacher about the issue, I considered combating the problem by adding two pleats in the side. This could have looked nice in a different fabric like black satin. I began to regret that my design vison was to have it made from black stretch jersey. I decided to take a risk and go forward with making the dress from the toile, out of my chosen, stretchy fabric. 

I experimented with different length/width on the sewing machine so that I could create a gathered effect around the halter neck. And using my knowledge from the previous project, I put drawstrings into the two side seams of the skirt. I overlocked the entirety of the inside of the dress, and it was done.  

I like how the dress came out, I think I was able to get it really similar to my design, though I would have liked to see it made in non stretch fabric.  

As soon as I entered, I was greeted by the calming aroma of incense, which, combined with items such as sound bowls, created a tranquil and relaxing shopping environment. One product that particularly caught my attention was their selection of Tarot cards. The idea formed that this could be an interesting theme to explore further in my project, as tarot offers a rich pool of symbolism and inspiration to draw upon.   

After visiting the arcades, I went to the National Museum of Cardiff to explore their crystal display. The collection featured many unique gems with intricate geometric shapes. If I were to design garments inspired by crystals, I would draw inspiration from their striking shapes and vibrant colours 

materials:

- calico

– thread

– needle

– tailors chalk

– fabric scissors 

steps: 

-I cut out an even square of calico 

-referencing the smocking sheet I mapped out the pattern using tailors chalk on to the calico 

-then using needle and thread began hand sewing along where I had mapped out

Health and safety:

Some things to consider were to be careful of the sharp end of the needle when poking through fabric, as well as the sharp blades on the fabric scissors, leaving scissors closed and away from my elbows (so as not to knock them onto the floor.

Evaluation:

I'm not super happy with how this turned out, I tried two separate times, shown above is my second attempt. The smocking was quite uneven, and the thread was very visible which I don't think is supposed to happen. Obviously I was using dark thread on pale fabric so I expected some visibility, in fact I made this choice so I could better see my work. From my tests I saw that if I had been more precise when mapping out the pattern onto the calico, the end result would have been better.

These are two designs I did based off of the draping, I really liked the way this turned out

The Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection, directed by Matayo Garoni, was a really fun presentation that had a theme of Tarot. They fused historical and modern design elements. There were ornate pleated sleeves from the 15th century, and tapestry fabrics draped around the body instead of being an castle walls. Continuity was made with empire-line silhouettes included through many garments. Because of COVID-19, Dior presented a short film rather than a traditional runway show. This led to the creation of "a compelling and immersive cinematic experience" with rich storytelling. 

Inspired from a 15th-century pack of tarot cards, the collection focused on the major arcana. Cards like The Fool and Temperance were presented in a way that made their meanings/ symbols accessible to all, even those without a knowledge of the tarot.

The colour palette of the collection was muted tones—such as soft greys, deep browns, and golds giving a vintage, faded feel, but silhouettes were very new and playful.

Madsen, A.C. (2021). 5 Things To Know About Christian Dior’s Mystical SS21 Haute Couture Show. [online] British Vogue. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/gallery/dior-couture-spring-summer-2021 [Accessed 3 Feb. 2025].

Teather, C. (2021). Dior Haute Couture SS21 Explores Tarot Cards As A Vehicle For Escapism. [online] Glamour UK. Available at: https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/gallery/dior-couture-spring-summer-2021 [Accessed 3 Feb. 2025].

My main strengths according to my feedback sheets were: the project concept, the designs, the illustrations, having lots of material tests, problem solving, and a consistent aesthetic.  

Things missing were: written research about the context of the tarot cards that I used for my final designs. Because of this feedback, in addition to the symbolism and meaning I put on all the initial concept boards for each major arcana card, I will add information in the style of a mind map on the pages were I’ve done tarot readings to decide on designs. explaining their similarity's, symbolism, and meaning.  

The next question on the feedback sheets was “Was the pitch clear, and easy to follow?” the feedback I received on this point was extremely positive, no one raised anything I could improve, I got comments about "loving the presentation."

“Do the designs fit the target audience?”  

The overall consensus was yes, I was told I had "a very clear target audience", and designs that "catered well" towards them.  

“How strong is the visual impact of the final designs?” 

Responses said yes, very strong. They particularly liked the use of jump rings in all designs, which created cohesion throughout the collection. 

“Does the final design seem functional, and wearable? What could be changed?” 

The majority said yes, and that the technical drawings emphasized this. However, I was asked about the potential for wardrobe malfunctions on both The Hanged Man dress and the halter neck dress. This was something I noticed in my fittings, so to combat this, I’m thinking of making bralette tops to go under the dresses, ensuring no mishaps happen on stage at the fashion show. 

"Any designers I should look into?"   

I was recommended designers who have done similar themes. I have already done with the research on Christian Dior's collection, but didn't present it.  

“Does the project effectively communicate a clear concept or narrative?” 

Majority said yes.  

I got three questions from peers on one of the sheets  

“What materials will you use?” 

“have any designers worked with tarot cards?” 

“Where would they be worn?” 

I think these might have been written before my presentation was over because I had already answered all of them by the end.  

I developed colour schemes, and designed looks for each card  

Similar to a deck of playing cards the minor arcana sequence goes as follows  

2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-page-knight-queen-king-ace  

Again like playing cards, the minor arcana is comprised of four suits, cups, swords, pentacles and wands. When I learnt Tarot I was also learning astrology and came to understand the influence of the 4 elements in both astrology and Tarot. Cups rule over the water signs representing, love, relationships and feelings. Swords rule over the air signs representing the intellect, thought process, decision-making, and the mental aspect of life. Pentacles rule over the earth signs representing money, career, and tangible life. Finally wands, rule over the fire signs representing, passion, creativity, power, and action. Like the major arcana each card in the minor arcana has its own symbolism, story and meaning behind it. Although there are a lot of cards to draw upon, I feel that the characters in them aren't as strong conceptually to base looks on as the major arcana is.  

Sharman-Burke, J. and Greene, L. (1986). The Mythic Tarot. 20 Vauxhall Bridge Road, London SW1V2SA: imprint of random century group Ltd. , pp.84-187.

I started with the longest ruffled layer which is a bit longer than 15 meters of fabric, and worked my way all the way to the top layer that sits under the pin tucks.

-Ruler

-square of calico

-pencil

-pins

-scissors

-sewing machine

-thread

Health and Safety

I had to be careful with measuring accuracy and fabric movement. Once all pins were in place, handling the fabric was very tricky with lots of chances to be pricked.

With a ruler I made marks 1cm apart to give a guide for when I began sewing. I didn't want to leave lots of marks on the fabric, so went for the guides.

similar crinkled pattern to tarot card bag

nice shiny look

Taffeta cons:

too heavy

Cheese cloth pros:

has crinkled texture like tarot cards

is medium weight (lighter than the taffeta

Cheese cloth cons:

I don't think the feel of the fabric is right,

it wouldn't be flowy enough

Chiffon pros:

super light weight

flowy

Chiffon cons:

see through (could be fixed with lining

difficult to sew (very slippery)

uk, fabrics (n.d.). [Online Website] Fabrics Uk. Available at: https://www.fabricuk.com/fabrics/2341-crushed-cotton-gauze.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw8IfABhBXEiwAxRHlsHVIW61XawQjo1BPa1HUnbK59867kachbGGXVMkDnMAOMxcGMedgWBoCZ4AQAvD_BwE [Accessed 25 Apr. 2025].

yarn, last (n.d.). white taffesta. [Online Website] Last Yarn. Available at: https://lastyarn.com/ [Accessed 22 Apr. 2025].

white chiffon. (n.d.). [Online Website] Amazon. Available at: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CSJG5JPF?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k4_1_12&amp=&crid=6IA69J5OR07M&amp=&sprefix=white+chiffo [Accessed 14 Apr. 2025].

Newell, T. (n.d.). Wooden Block Print. [Online Website] tricianewell.com. Available at: https://www.tricianewell.com/ [Accessed 15 Mar. 2025].

I'm glad I made all the changes that I did because I don't think the dress would be quite as nice without them

Next I finished it by sewing the ruffled layer onto the top layer