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Wardrobe Reboot
My concept would change this consumer shift as the idea of my INP is based around designer gym wear. During the pandemic consumer buying changed and products such as loungewear were highly purchased, this therefore would have altered consumer lifestyles. By focusing on gym wear that can be worn outside of working out, this will create a positive shift as consumers remain in the mentality of comfort and versatility of clothing.

However, analysis has shown that categories such as nightwear, activewear and underwear have started to see a reduced amount of demand compared to 2020.

Logistics Gridlock
As the concept I have decided to go ahead with includes sustainable ways of shipping and manufacturing, this factor may impact my plan as supply chains intensify. Statistics mention that 77% of ports are experiencing abnormally long times to turnaround traffic.

Product Passports
With my chosen brand Gucci having past issues with authenticity and fake product being sold, these new product passports which are centred around blockchain and radio frequency identification can help tackle brands with counterfeit products. Product passports will allow consumers to the product materials of the item, where it's from, how it was made and working conditions at the manufacturer which will be information detailed on these product passports.

This new piece of technology will help with my range in order to identify its authenticity.

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Sustainability & Innovation: Second-Skin comfort and Innerwear

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Sustainability & Innovation: Second-Skin comfort and Innerwear

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Sustainability and Comfortwear WGSN report - Research

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As millions join social fitness communities like Strava, Nike Run Club or Fiit, technical athleticwear is in demand. It's a trend for luxury brands to explore.

In a world still coping with the Covid-19 pandemic, social media weekend feeds of parties and restaurants are no longer on the agenda. Instead, consumers of all ages are donning leggings, pounding pavements, doing burpees in their living rooms and posting their progress on platforms such as Strava, Nike Run Club or Fiit.

Online fitness communities have soared over the last 12 months in response to the closure of gyms and restrictions on spectators at sports events. For many, outdoor pursuits are helping to beat lockdown boredom and provide a sense of purpose to the dullness of daily life in a pandemic.

Now, premium and mass-market athleticwear brands are tapping into these fitness communities to reach hyper-engaged audiences, while luxury brands are exploring the potential of technical athleticwear. The power of digital community networking was recognised long before the Covid-19 pandemic began. Likewise, growing consumer interest in health and wellness is a long-term trend, says Sarah Willersdorf, global head of luxury at Boston Consulting Group. The difference is that these two trends have converged and accelerated, creating networks of consumers ready to invest in fitness apps, equipment and clothes.

Fitness networks nurture a sense of belonging in their participants, says Karina van den Oever, partner and retail expert at consultancy Elixirr. As networks strengthen, participants are naturally ready to step up their spending on higher performance quality products. "Athleisure is one of few resilient categories during the pandemic. However, as lockdowns continue, consumers are moving away from fast fashion athleisure and looking to invest in longer-lasting performance wear," van den Oever says.

Hyper-engaged online fitness communities

More than 74 million athletes worldwide use Strava, an app that enables users to track routes and metrics for outdoor activities like running and cycling. But it's the social aspect that's attracting 2 million newcomers to the platform each month, says international director of marketing, Simon Klima. Users like to follow their friends and use their home feeds to give kudos or comments.

Strava reports a substantial increase in athleticwear brand activity on the platform, typically involving the creation of clubs or challenges, Klima says. Branded running clubs are free to set up. "Being active is the best part of many people's day at the moment," says Klima. "As a brand, if you can connect to that moment, that's really powerful."

Premium athleticwear brand Lululemon has one of the biggest clubs on Strava, with over 100,000 members. Its Move and Stay Connected Challenge saw mass engagement with more than 300,000 people tracking their workouts together in a Strava community, says Lululemon chief brand officer Nikki Neuburger. "The world is craving new ways to connect to the things that have always been important to them - their colleagues, their workouts, their communities," she says. "This has further fuelled consumers' desire to access both product and content digitally in an easy and intuitive manner."

What makes fitness communities special is the long-term, quality engagement, says Klima. "When you do a challenge on Strava, it's not like an initial impression and that's it. It could be a month's challenge where someone is really hard to achieve a goal. And it's a really satisfying feeling at the end, which the user associates with the brand." These kinds of high-engagement challenges can provide a 10x return on investment, claims Klima. He adds that cycling brand Le Col reports 10x higher engagement on a Strava post than on an Instagram post.

As the pandemic continues, BCG's Sarah Willersdorf notes a decline in trust in institutions, media and government. Instead, consumers are seeking out communities and networks online, she says. "They are looking to cross-connect or find trusted communities to seek out information from," she says. The result: a hyper-engaged network of consumers in the fitness space.

Technical athleticwear could be the new luxury

Nike launched the first iteration of its run club, NRC, in 2010. It logged 100 million runs over the last 12 months, continuing to see strong year-over-year gains in weekly active users, new users and retained users in Q2, Nike says. The app links seamlessly to in-app purchases and offers exclusive drops and discounts on Nike goods.

Nike is an example of a brand that has built exclusivity around fitness networks. "For younger consumers, in particular, Nike is as much a luxury brand as many of the true luxury brands, in specific categories," Willersdorf says. "If you think about the tenets of luxury - like high-quality craftsmanship, timelessness - many performance brands fit into that. It's just a different type of luxury."

Swiss brand On Running's CloudX trainer ranked #9 in fashion search engine Lyst's Hottest Men's Items index for Q4 2020, the first time a technical running shoe has featured in the ranking. The top ten is typically dominated by luxury and streetwear brands (other high-ranking items include the Moncler Sassiere down jacket and a Balmain logo jumper), but Lyst is seeing a shift as consumers invest in technical sportswear. Search numbers are up considerably for outdoor and technical brands such as On (+546 per cent) while running shoe brand Hoka One has seen a 202 per cent spike in Lyst page views compared to last year.

On has always been a technical brand for runners, says co-founder Caspar Coppetti. However, in the last year, it has reached a wider non-specialist audience as more consumers take up running. The first iteration of On's now regular Run Your Local Mountain challenge had 140,000 sign-ups on Strava. "For our existing fans, it's more about community building, but new audiences might see that a friend participated in the On: Run Your Local Mountain challenge and ask what is On?" says Coppetti. "It generates brand awareness."

Luxury brands have tended to steer clear of technical athleticwear, but there are signs that they are ready to push more into this product category from Autumn/Winter 2021 onwards.

Do they have the expertise? Brands seeking to move into fitness might do well to harness the expertise of those names already getting it right. "Athleticwear and athletic footwear are highly technical today," says Willersdorf. "If you're a luxury brand wanting to move into truly technical apparel or technical footwear, it's very difficult to do so without a partner."

Designer Victoria Beckham launched an ongoing collaboration with Reebok in 2019, with drop four released in December 2020. "'Balancing the stringent technical requirements to withstand a workout with a feminine and flattering silhouette has been a real focus for us," says Beckham. "Each item has to work hard for multiple aspects of a woman's life."

Victoria Beckham CEO Marie Leblanc de Reynies notes heightened demand: "The pandemic has broadened the appetite for athleisure wear, and we continue to see a growing demand for these products," she says. "Our goal is to bridge performance with an elevated aesthetic, and we have always had a great response from our highly engaged VB x Reebok community."

Integrating athleticwear brands into classes

Home fitness platform Fiit's subscriber base has grown 700 per cent in the last year. Fiit hosts virtual fitness classes via an app for smartphones, computers and SkyQ. Accessed through wearable tech, it can monitor heart rates and enable users to compete and join classes with friends.

Apparel is a big opportunity in the online fitness space, says Fiit co-founder and CEO Daniel Shellard. "We collect feedback after every single class. And people often ask what's [trainer] Gede wearing or what's Adrianne wearing," he says. "We are looking into apparel ranges for our trainers so users can shop the look within the app." Fiit is in discussion with a number of brands, following exploratory small-scale activations with the likes of Asos and Sweaty Betty.

It remains to be seen whether luxury brands will explore further. But there are plenty of high-income consumers in these new fitness communities. Peloton, the exercise equipment and media brand that went public in 2019, is already serving those consumers. "Let's be clear, Peloton is a luxury brand. It's vertically integrated. It has a high price premium," says Willersdorf.

The fundamental appeal for luxury brands is hyper-engaged consumer communities with staying power, says van de Oever. "You see it with Peloton, with the Nike running app. It's that sense of competition, passion, adrenalin and gamification that brings people together. I think it's going to persist even when we get out of lockdown."

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More from this author: TikTok e-commerce is coming for hyper-engaged Gen Z The demi-fine jewellery boom: Is luxury next? Forget actors, footballers are the new fashion icons

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As online fitness booms, is technical sportswear the new luxury?

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Sign up to our newsletter for a truly global perspective on the fashion industry As millions join social fitness communities like Strava, Nike Run Club or Fiit, technical athleticwear is in demand. It's a trend for luxury brands to explore.

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Founder & CEO at , a customer experience agency for premium and luxury brands.
Sustainability has become a ubiquitous topic across all industries, and the luxury industry is no exception. Sustainability is made up of three pillars: the economy, society and the environment. While focusing mostly on the latter, I will reflect on how things have changed over the last few years and unearth the opportunities that lie ahead for luxury brands.

The ironic paradox of sustainable luxury brands remains prevalent. While luxury brands center around the concept of durability, exclusivity through limited quantities, and exquisite craftsmanship enhanced by high-quality materials and transmission, luxury is often perceived as superficial and can enflame social tension. Such consequences ultimately reject the sentiment of social harmony - which serves the fortitude of sustainability - and cause a socially conscientious customer to boycott luxury brands in favor of alternative sustainably-minded brands. But luxury brands can overcome this, as we will see later.
Buying Behaviors of the Past
One thing is certain: Luxury brands can no longer ignore the subject of sustainability. Due to their expansive visibility - perhaps more than their impact - they must face sustainable scrutiny. The new generation of consumers, who, in 2018 alone, drove 85% of luxury sales growth, consists primarily of millennials and Generation Z and demands sustainable practices, messaging and products. Accustomed to broadcasting their lives on social media, these consumers perceive themselves as brands and consequently elect labels that align with their personalized positioning, often claiming to only associate with sustainable brands (in reality, their purchase history - according to our own focus groups of millennials - tells a slightly different story).

Previously, baby boomers inherently considered luxury brands to be sustainable by nature due to their exclusivity, high price, exceptional quality and scarcity. In their opinion, fast fashion was the perfect culprit, and therefore luxury brands discussing the matter of sustainability were deemed unnecessary and uncouth. Simultaneously, luxury brands also avoided the subject for fear of distracting customers from delivering the idyllic, perfect dream life. However, a few luxury brands have indirectly served a sustainable message, perhaps without knowing it, early on.
The Rise of the Ethically-Minded Shopper
Patek Philippe's infamous 25-year-old "Generations" advert conceived in 1996 perfectly blended the emotionally driven message of investing in timeless luxury while exuding high-class status. The tagline: "You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation," draws a close relationship between the ownership of a Patek Philippe, the quality of the product and the assurance that the watch - and brand - will stand the test of time. Another great example is Stella McCartney who, in the early 2000s, launched her label in partnership with Kering with a sustainable approach.

In the mid-2010s, purchasing attitudes shifted and began to coincide with growing ethical considerations. Arguably acting as the catalyst for change, the emergence of the Covid crisis in 2020 stimulated an industry-wide sustainable transformation that pioneered positive development in the luxury industry. As a result, large luxury conglomerates began investing in various methods to address sustainability issues.
A Circular Future
Such initiatives include sustainability profit and losses reports and the introduction of The Fashion Pact in 2019. Devoted to achieving a common core of environmental goals in three areas - mitigating climate change, restoring biodiversity and protecting the oceans - the pact gathers a global coalition in the fashion and textile industry of over 200 brands, all committed to building a better future and protecting the planet.

Sustainability now serves as a vital component of shopper motivation, forcing brands to pursue innovative sustainability initiatives that will deeply reshape their business model. Arguably, it is impossible to become truly sustainable and adhere to the business model in place: luxury brands must evolve to a circular economy that supports the pre-owned and rental market.
Empowering Agents
While more and more brands have forgone the use of animal furs and most are investing in low-emission practices, responsible sourcing or new materials, the circular economy built around renting and reselling products appears to have a far-reaching impact. Although appearing as a systemic change for luxury brands, it's a worthwhile, overdue reform that provides valuable opportunities for all brands involved. Affording customers the ability to return old items from their favorite brands in exchange for a gift credit for their next purchase builds brand loyalty and effortlessly contributes to the secondhand market.

According to our most recent survey of more than 1,800 affluent evaluators, 87% of conversations between clients and brand advisors fail to include any topic linked to sustainability. On rare occasions when sustainability does get mentioned, 82% of the conversation is limited to materials only. For the remainder of the time, sustainability sadly gets ignored. Why?

Perhaps due to the focus of luxury brands to achieve perfection in everything they do, the discussion of sustainability may emerge as "imperfect," contentious and even counterproductive. To avoid potentially offending customers by inadvertently appearing to greenwash, resemble pretentious attitudes or cause customers to feel patronized, brands sometimes relinquish the conversation entirely.

Luxury brands must make a bold, definitive statement that embraces the market opportunity that sustainability provides. They must perfect their tone in their messaging and equip their teams and floor staff to enable them to confidently handle such conversations - because if they don't, brands can expect adverse consequences.

Customers are fundamentally concerned with progress and the brand's future envisionment, not only previous achievements. Therefore, luxury brands have an urgent mission to propose and introduce an approach that promises to deliver a sustainably driven tomorrow and beyond. There is no doubt that the brand business model repercussions may prove significant, but brands no longer have a choice. The question now is: Are brands ready for the transformation?

Forbes Agency Council is an invitation-only community for executives in successful public relations, media strategy, creative and advertising agencies. Do I qualify?

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Council Post: Is Sustainability The Next Frontier For Luxury Brands?

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Founder & CEO at , a customer experience agency for premium and luxury brands. Sustainability has become a ubiquitous topic across all industries, and the luxury industry is no exception. Sustainability is made up of three pillars: the economy, society and the environment.

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Shop Our Sustainability at lululemon. Our technical gear is designed to keep you comfortable and confident during all your sweaty pursuits. Free Shipping and Returns.

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Fashion industry must prioritise its inclusion crisis over sustainability

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Joanna Pritchard discusses why the fashion industry will never be able to address its sustainability crisis without addressing its inclusion crisis

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Whether you have set yourself some fitness resolutions or are just looking to update your activewear wardrobe, there could be no better time to invest in some luxury sportswear because the offering has never been better.

Long gone are the days when your gym kit was the least stylish part of your wardrobe. Now, with so many amazing brands out there matching up performance to style, your sports bras, gym leggings and running jackets can be worn straight from your barre class and out to lunch (or are great for wearing all day long while working from home).

Below, we round up 13 of the best luxury activewear labels that we recommend investing in, ideal for breathing life into your gym wardrobe this year. From old favourites like Lululemon and Ernest Leoty to fun new brands to have on your radar, including Sporty & Rich and All Access, we present the activewear brands that fashion editors always turn to.

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13 activewear brands that are just as stylish as they are practical

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Whether you have set yourself some fitness resolutions or are just looking to update your activewear wardrobe, there could be no better time to invest in some luxury sportswear because the offering has never been better. Long gone are the days when your gym kit was the least stylish part of your wardrobe.

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The Year Ahead: Consumers to Reboot Wardrobes for Post-Pandemic Life

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The Year Ahead: Consumers to Reboot Wardrobes for Post-Pandemic Life

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This article first appeared in The State of Fashion 2022, an in-depth report on the global fashion industry, co-published by BoF and McKinsey & Company. To learn more and download a copy of the report, click here.
The pandemic fashion era will be remembered for a surge in comfortable clothing among other things, but some shifts in spending between categories were temporary, while others will see sustained momentum over the longer term. The net result is an altered consumer demand structure comprised of new baselines for some fashion categories, a change which will compel some players to adjust strategies across product development, merchandising and marketing in 2022.

Consumers' lifestyles were drastically altered through the pandemic, causing lumpy seasonal purchases characterised by irregular spikes and lulls of activity, such as surging demand for athletic wear and loungewear. Resizing needs have also disrupted usual demand patterns. In the US, 40 percent of women and 35 percent of men are a different size than in 2019. Now, some categories and products are starting to experience demand fatigue as the recent torrent of irregular purchases is set to subside.

According to analysis by online fashion platform Lyst, pandemic-resilient categories such as nightwear, activewear and underwear are starting to see decelerating demand compared with the more-than 100 percent growth rates that were common in 2020. While 2022 will certainly not see a collapse of loungewear and leisurewear, some brands operating in these categories are beginning to slow down their inventory turnover. Launches of new activewear shorts and tops in the US and UK were down 20 percent and 50 percent respectively in late 2021 compared with the same period in 2020, according to e-commerce trend research by data analytics platform StyleSage, reflecting a similar trend in China.

On the other hand, as more people return to the workplace and formal occasions are reinstated on social calendars, consumers will reinvigorate the formalwear business in the year ahead, building on momentum established in the latter half of 2021, as pent-up demand manifests as so-called "revenge shopping" in some markets after people's social lives resume. Global monthly searches for occasion dresses, such as homecoming, wedding guest, cocktail and formal dresses, were already up 200 percent in 2021 compared to the previous year, according to StyleSage.

Similarly, in footwear, consumers will look beyond the sneakers and comfy sandals that ruled lockdown-era shopping. In August 2021, online searches for women's heels were up more than 200 percent compared with the same month in 2020. However, more practical heel shapes that cater to adjusted consumer preferences will likely remain popular even as people dress up again: footwear styles with the highest number of units sold in 2021 were wedge heels, rubber heels, thick or block soles and kitten heels. In summer 2021, similarly comfortable options like Gucci pool sliders and Tory Burch "Miller Cloud" sandals were cited as bestsellers by Bloomingdale's footwear merchandiser. Dressier sneaker styles were also high on consumer wish lists, particularly in the US, where searches for platform sneakers and brands such as Golden Goose were up 28 percent and 104 percent respectively.

In contrast to the reinvigorated demand for occasion dressing, workplace wardrobes will witness increased casualisation in some markets, such as the US and UK, as people adjust to new ways of working, including hybrid office-home patterns. "Work looks and feels different now," said US-based retail consultant Kathy Gersch. "Virtual work and flexible hours aren't going to go away. Brands that believe old patterns will revive will fall by the wayside."

In another sign of creeping casualisation, workplace returnees in many regions have been shopping for casual blazers rather than suits: global search volumes for blazers were more than 100 percent higher in August 2021 than in August 2019. In some markets like Germany, searches for suits were down. Even some traditional and corporate offices will adopt hybrid styles, replacing suits and heels with business-casual styles and sneakers. Of course, there are nuanced differences between markets, where dress codes in some regions and professions will necessitate a return to formality. This said, brands will still find opportunities to tap into the casualisation shift by developing products with new fabric options or hybrid styles. For example, athletic brands Lululemon and Athleta have expanded into workwear, while Hugo Boss collaborated with Russell Athletic to produce suits in jersey fabric, some of which have shorts in place of trousers.

In addition to the changes companies make across design, product development and merchandising, they may also need to employ fresh marketing strategies that align with those changes. For example, exuberance in marketing campaigns will likely mirror consumers' eagerness to dress up for social occasions again. As such, brands should consider bold ads and ambassadors suitable for the new mood, fine-tuning their approach to rapid shifts in social marketing trends on platforms like TikTok and Instagram to enable customers a seamless and instantly gratifying route to purchase new styles. At the same time, leveraging marketing channels that were largely ignored during pandemic, such as in-store events, will be increasingly important to build a sense of community and loyalty.

With consumer demand rebounding alongside ongoing logistics challenges in many global markets, 2022 pricing strategies should also be re-examined. Indeed, fashion executives across different value segments have cited plans to increase prices in 2022, with an average expected rise of 4 percent in luxury, 2 percent in mid-market and 5 percent in value, according to the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2022 Survey. These price hikes are in part due to ongoing supply chain disruptions that will impact margins (see "Logistics Gridlock"). However, they will also have downstream effects on how consumers in each segment shop new styles to reboot their wardrobes.

Looking ahead, there will likely be increased appetite for experimentation and self-expression as consumers seek out more playful and energetic ways of dressing, boosting demand for novel designs, more adventurous colourways and creative pairings across categories in 2022.

"Often it's the case during times of crisis, people revert back to shiny fabrics, bright colours, clothing that can inspire happiness," said London-based trend forecaster Geraldine Wharry. "If you look at the 2008 [global financial] crisis, a couple of years after that, there was the trend starting to really gain traction in terms of bright clothing, almost clothing inspired by toy colours." In the US, patterned trousers and women's garments in bright colours such as fuchsia, green, orange and purple were more commonly sold out through 2021 versus 2020, according to StyleSage.

The budding new consumer mood, which was captured in late 2021 by fashion critics like GQ magazine's New York-based Rachel Tashjian, is likely to continue feeding into aesthetic preferences in 2022. "During the opening stages of the pandemic, there was defeatism... but that's evolved into this type of exuberant attitude," she said. Brand leaders are increasingly aligning their creative teams with the changing consumer sentiment: "People are ready for a little bit of optimism... [and] looking to be inspired," said J.Crew Group chief executive Libby Wadle.

Executives, merchandisers and buying team leaders at retailers including Moda Operandi and Intermix noted soaring appetite for bold and risqué styles in late 2021. Indeed, this theme will likely extend into next year, with luxury players' Spring 2022 collections by brands such as Michael Kors and Chanel showing skin-baring looks at fashion weeks in New York and Paris.

In a bid to capture demand for new styles, particularly from younger consumer cohorts, fast and ultra-fast fashion players are upping their inventory turn. Asos, Boohoo and PrettyLittleThing are among those to have recently accelerated product introductions. Chinese ultra-fast fashion player Shein consistently introduces more than 6,000 new products per day in limited units, with designs informed by customer data, which can be turned around in as little as three days. However, companies reliant on these business models are facing increased scrutiny for their environmental impact and labour conditions.

There are huge contradictions at the moment [with the concurrent rise of both ultra-fast fashion and]... the mindful consumer.
- Geraldine Wharry

"There are huge contradictions at the moment [with the concurrent rise of both ultra-fast fashion and]... the mindful consumer," said Wharry. "I think we're at a tipping point when it comes to people associating the item they buy with its contribution to society... [but even for those who are less concerned about that aspect], there will be more awareness of 'how can this item also be recycled into other occasions?'" As such, a growing number of consumers are likely to allocate more of their wallet share to investment pieces and versatile items, even as inexpensive items and impulse purchases remain an important part of the wardrobe mix for many in 2022.

For most brands, the demand for new styles does not necessarily mean adopting bigger assortments, but instead using greater thoughtfulness around data- and demand-driven product launches and inventory mixes. With increased opportunities to collect consumer data through the growth in e-commerce spend, brands should track category shifts and pay special attention to how new assortments resonate with consumers.

To respond rapidly to changing preferences amid next year's wardrobe reboot, brands should also strengthen the reactivity of their supply chains and think differently about the highly seasonal nature of the traditional fashion business. This means reimagining their collections and production cycles, while being prepared for uneven supply and demand. To achieve this, brands will need to collaborate with suppliers to carefully manage orders and inventories. They should also be aware of the need to balance consumer demand and pricing opportunities with the need for increasingly careful allocation of budgets to marketing and supply chain operations.

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The Year Ahead: Consumers to Reboot Wardrobes for Post-Pandemic Life

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This article first appeared in The State of Fashion 2022 , an in-depth report on the global fashion industry, co-published by BoF and McKinsey & Company. To learn more and download a copy of the report, click here.

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Global Port Gridlock Threatens Economies Everywhere

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Global Port Gridlock Threatens Economies Everywhere

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Global ports are growing more gridlocked as the pandemic era's supply shocks intensify, threatening to spoil the holiday shopping season, erode corporate profits and drive up consumer prices.

Bloomberg's Port Congestion Tracker shows a typhoon in Asia spawned another wild week for shipping in a year with multiple challenges - a vessel wedged in the Suez Canal, a dozen major storms, rolling Covid lockdowns disrupting key manufacturing hubs in China and Vietnam, a shortage of truckers and dockworkers, and a resurgence of consumer demand.

As of Friday, at least 107 container ships were waiting off Hong Kong and Shenzhen, the data show. The pileup worsened when the storm brushed past Hong Kong around midweek, shutting down its stock exchange and idling its ports. Globally, RBC Capital Markets reckons 77% of ports are experiencing abnormally long times to turnaround traffic.

The latest congestion won't be isolated to Asia for long, as delayed ships loaded with merchandise soon start sailing for the U.S. and Europe.

As the Big Crunch of 2021 has repeatedly demonstrated, a bottleneck in one corner of the globe eventually exacerbates a logjam or compounds shortages in another.

Even if shipping strains ease in China, that "could still mean new surges of vessels arriving at congested ports like Los Angeles-Long Beach, shifting the backlog to the destination ports," said Judah Levine, head of research at Hong Kong-based Freightos.com, an online shipping marketplace.

President Joe Biden last week urged the L.A. port to run a 24/7 operation. In the U.K., containers filled with goods and outbound empties were piling up so high at the key port of Felixstowe that at least one container carrier had to reroute cargo through ports in mainland Europe.

That all spells trouble for the world economy. Concern is already mounting that holiday shoppers won't be able to buy the gifts they want, dealing a blow to retail sales. Companies are worried about their bottom line with executives at Tesla Inc., Target Corp. and other S&P 500 companies mentioning "supply chain" a record 3,000 times during presentations as of Tuesday. And a lack of goods and costlier shipping mean further upward pressure on already heady inflation.

"Data on sea and air shipping costs, container throughput and transport utilization point to an ongoing supply shock for the global economy," Michael Hanson, senior global economist at JPMorgan Chase & Co., told clients in a report on Thursday.

Friday's queue of ships around Hong Kong and Shenzhen was the largest recorded there since Bloomberg News began tracking the area in April. The current count surpasses highs reached in May when the Shenzhen port of Lantian was gripped by a COVID-19 outbreak.

The fallout from the storm was felt all the way to Singapore, a crossroads for goods transiting from East to West. Waiting container ships off that port reached their highest since July 21, when another storm, Typhoon In-fa slammed into Shanghai, further north of Hong Kong.

Typhoons in Asia have tested an already-strained port infrastructure in the U.S. and the effects are rippling to logistics on land like trucking, rail and warehousing.

U.S. ports have some of the highest congestion rates in the world, the data show.

The Port of Savannah, Georgia, on the East Coast had 25 waiting ships versus just six in port late Thursday, leading all major ports with an 81% congestion rate. On the West Coast, the adjacent ports of L.A. and Long Beach had a combined congestion rate of 56% Friday, as ships waiting outnumbered the ships in port.

In Europe, ports in Rotterdam and Antwerp had blockage rates about half that level.

Ports are overwhelmed because they sit at the junctions of global trade where ocean freight gets transferred to some mode of land-based transportation. The supply snags are colliding with a demand surge - peak season for retailers to stock up before holiday shopping kicks off.

Consumer purchases of goods have stayed elevated in advanced economies and labor shortages have stretched trucking, rail and shipping liner capacity to their limits, creating bottlenecks of containers between the factory loading docks and store shelves.

San Francisco-based freight forwarder Flexport Inc. developed an indicator to help anticipate when the share of U.S. consumer purchases on goods versus services will return to pre-Covid levels. According to the latest reading released on Friday, there's no sign yet that it's easing up, so pressure on supply chains will continue at least to year end, Flexport said.

"Port congestion, equipment shortages and extreme container freight rates are just the symptoms of a deeper problem that includes trucking shortages and limited warehousing space," said Simon Heaney, senior manager for container research at Drewry in London. "Covid has stressed all links in the chain and these issues take time to resolve as there is no latent capacity that can be turned on like a tap."

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Global Port Gridlock Threatens Economies Everywhere

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Global ports are growing more gridlocked as the pandemic era's supply shocks intensify, threatening to spoil the holiday shopping season, erode corporate profits and drive up consumer prices.

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The Year Ahead: What Product Passports Will Do for Brands

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The Year Ahead: What Product Passports Will Do for Brands

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This article first appeared in The State of Fashion 2022, an in-depth report on the global fashion industry, co-published by BoF and McKinsey & Company. To learn more and download a copy of the report, click here.
Fashion businesses are pouring investment into digital technologies that allow unique identifiers and other digital information to be added to products. These "product passports" link information that is valuable to both consumers and partners to individual products by leveraging a combination of technologies centred around blockchain and supported by the likes of radio-frequency identification (RFID), QR codes and near-field communication (NFC). Indeed, these technologies are helping businesses to tackle significant industry pain points, such as counterfeiting and the need for more responsible and transparent business practices amid rising consumer engagement with climate change and labour conditions in fashion.

Demonstrating progress in sustainability is particularly important in gaining the trust of younger fashion consumers, as some 43 percent of Gen-Zers say they actively seek out companies that have a solid sustainability reputation. One way to store and transparently share information on a product's sustainability credentials is through technology-based product passports. This information could include details about the product's materials (providing a more detailed and permanent record than traditional sewn-on labels), where and how it was made, and the working conditions at the manufacturer.

For example, Eon's Connected Product Platform allows companies such as Pangaia and Yoox Net-a-Porter to create "digital twins" for their products and private-label collections respectively, containing information that can be updated in real time, such as details on a product's provenance. Similarly, Reformation is partnering with blockchain platform FibreTrace to give customers QR-code access to information on the lifecycles of its denim garments, while TS Designs uses QR-enabled passports to certify garments are made in the US. Though product passports are not a silver-bullet solution to sustainability concerns - as companies still face the challenge of making sure the data they get from suppliers is accurate - they are setting higher standards for supply chain transparency and traceability for fashion.

Product passports are also supporting circularity initiatives like resale and garment-to-garment recycling. In providing detailed data on materials, they facilitate easier collection and sorting of garments for recycling at scale. Like Eon, closed-loop recycling platform Circular Fashion has developed an open data standard that can be read by a variety of applications along the product lifecycle. The company has launched a pilot project with fashion brands such as Armedangels, as well as stakeholders in used clothes collection and sorting, to test applications for scaling garment-to-garment recycling (see "Circular Textiles"). Initiatives such as the European Commission's European Data Space for Smart Circular Applications and the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA)'s call for the digitisation of apparel and footwear labelling are also supporting these kinds of efforts.

"Consumers often remove labels from their garments, separating the garment from its legally mandated fiber content, identity, care, and origin information for the rest of its life," wrote AAFA president and chief executive Steve Lamar in a 2020 letter lobbying the US Federal Trade Commission to support digitised labels in a technology-agnostic way. "[This] would reduce the likelihood that the information gets separated from a product. Consumers, even secondhand consumers, would have constant access to the information over the life of the garment, without having to sacrifice the comfort of the garment."

The growth of resale businesses means it has never been more important to prove authenticity and track a product's history, particularly in luxury.

The growth of resale businesses means it has never been more important to prove authenticity and track a product's history, particularly in luxury. Analysis from the BoF Insights report " The Future of Fashion Resale " suggests that the resale market will reach $57 billion in sales by 2025, up from $27 billion today, while second-hand marketplace ThredUp estimates that resale will grow 11 times faster than the overall clothing retail sector over the next five years.

As resale grows, product passports will ease operational processes by offering readily available digital twins and standardised product information. These will support authentication and valuation, as well as streamline a process that was historically manual, reducing reliance on authenticator specialists who have been in significant demand on industry jobs boards. For example, one feature of Eon's digital passport is to suggest the price of a garment based on its history, including who wore and owned the product, as well as repairs history and advice on marketing. Certainly, the digital authentication offered by product passports will help boost trust in second-hand luxury goods and collectibles, meaning resale platforms such as Vestiaire Collective and The RealReal stand to benefit.

Another application of product passports is in anti-counterfeiting measures. Valued at around $500 billion a year globally, counterfeiting generates more than 60 percent of that value from fashion and luxury goods. The China Certification and Inspection Group is among the organisations to be making strides in the battle against counterfeiting with product passport technology. Its "one item one code" technology allows customers to scan a code and see a simple confirmation of a product's authenticity. Brands are similarly ramping up their efforts. Chanel is launching a digital passport to replace physical authenticity cards in its bags, which will be accessible through a scannable metal plate in the product. This will enable the brand and consumers to immediately recognise authentic products and ensure after-sales services such as repairs are only provided for genuine bags.

Initiatives to develop product passports are emerging in both private and open-source forums. The Aura Blockchain Consortium, a shared private platform launched by companies including LVMH and Prada in spring 2021, leverages unique codes to provide authenticated product records, including ownership history, product authenticity data and provenance of materials. When a customer buys a product, he or she receives an encrypted certificate containing information about the production process. In the open-source space, meanwhile, IBM and luxury and fashion non-fungible token (NFT) platform Arianee are partnering to pilot digital product passports for brands such as Swiss watchmakers Breitling and Vacheron Constantin.

In addition to supporting authentication and traceability, several brands are leveraging these product technologies to drive brand engagement, loyalty and repeat purchasing. Prada is rolling out NFC solutions to offer personalised information and purchasing suggestions to customers who scan NFC tags embedded in products with their mobile devices. Meanwhile, Paco Rabanne has launched its first NFC-enabled fragrance, which allows customers to access digital content such as interactive games and educational features by connecting their smartphone to an NFC chip, and Breitling is leveraging digital passports to share promotions with customers and demonstrate authenticity.

Looking ahead to 2022, a growing number of fashion brands are set to ramp up development of product passports across various B2B, B2C and C2C use cases. Pressure to establish supply chain transparency and adopt circular business models will fuel demand and help justify scaling pilot projects to mainstream applications. At the same time, the growth of luxury e-commerce and resale markets and the need for authentication will encourage adoption, either as part of a collective initiative (such as Aura) or independently (as with Chanel). While the cost of some product passport technologies has historically been a pain point in scaling, costs are coming down: the price of an RFID tag has fallen by 80 percent over the past decade.

A success factor for widespread adoption of product passports will likely be the industry's ability to establish common standards. "Brands are competitors, and there's a lack of cooperation," said Tyler Chaffo, sustainability manager at RFID labelling and supply chain solution company Avery Dennison. Currently, some digital passports only operate on closed platforms, while others are open-source and compatible across a range of applications. Still, there are signs that players are starting to converge around a few solutions, with Aura and Arianee frequently cited in many discussions.

Accessibility and affordability will also be success factors in the burgeoning product passport ecosystem. "It's really important that there's been a democratic process so we could create a governance structure and a standard that works for both smaller brands and big brands," said Timothy Iwata-Durie, Cartier's global innovation director and a member of the Aura board.

From a commercial perspective, product passports will deliver the most advantage to players that can expand their functionality across use cases. For those who get it right, passport technologies will reinforce consumer trust, create exclusivity, support repurchase and enable more sustainable and responsible practices. To encourage scaling, standardisation and compatibility should be top priorities. As these dynamics play out, the key for brands will be to keep pace with innovation and consider collaborations selectively to meet their business objectives.

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The Year Ahead: What Product Passports Will Do for Brands

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Brands are adopting new technologies that store and share product information to improve authentication, provide transparency and boost consumer trust. However, for "product passports" to truly gain traction, businesses must coalesce around common standards and engage with pilot projects at scale.

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Gucci: What to Know About the Luxury Brand

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Gucci: What to Know About the Luxury Brand

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This article talks about the history of Gucci which I found useful for the timeline section of my INP.

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ABOUT

Gucci is an Italian fashion brand founded in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, making it one of the oldest Italian fashion brands in operation today. Like many historic fashion houses, the brand started out as a luggage manufacturer, producing luxury travel goods for Italy's wealthy upper-classes, as well as equestrian equipment.

Initially the brand produced primarily leather goods, as well as premium knitwear, silk goods, shoes and handbags. During the second world war, material constraints owing to the war effort forced the label to use cotton to create their goods. It was during this time that the label introduced its distinctive "Double-G" monogram, as well as the now iconic Gucci stripe, consisting of two green stripes interrupted by a single red bar.

From the 1950s onwards, Gucci experienced incredible success as a label of choice amongst wealthy travellers, Hollywood stars and other well-heeled shoppers, renowned for its extravagant, opulent designs. Guccio Gucci passed away in 1953, but the business continued under the leadership of his three sons, Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo, In the mid-'60s, the brand introduced luxury accessories such as eyewear, watches and jewelry to their product line; items which have since become a cornerstone of the label.

In 1983, Rodolfo Gucci passed away, and control was passed to his son, Maurizio, who struggled to maintain Gucci's successes. During this period, the brand experienced numerous troubles owing to family disputes, tax evasion charges, assassinations and sales to foreign investors. In 1990, American designer Tom Ford was hired as a ready-to-wear designer, eventually being promoted to Creative Director four years later. Ford is credited as being instrumental in helping to restore Gucci's reputation during that period, reducing the brand's product offer, streamlining its identity and restoring the opulence and extravagance that had defined the label previously.

In 2004, Tom Ford presented his last collection with Gucci, being replaced by Frida Giannini. In 2006, Giannini took control of both men's and women's ready-to-wear design, and served in this role until late 2014.

At the time of Giannini's departure, there was a perception developing that Gucci had become stale or irrelevant, with a lot of talk about who would replace her. The brand surprised their audience when, in 2015, it was announced that Alessandro Michele would take over as creative director of the brand.

Though Michele had worked for Gucci in various roles for 12 years, he was still relatively unknown as a designer, and it was not clear in what direction he would take the brand. However, Michele's unique style, blending Gucci's classic penchant for extravagance and opulence with a theatrical, somewhat-kitschy pageantry, has proven to be a huge success, attracting many young and aspirational customers, as well as numerous fashion insiders. In early 2017, it was announced that Gucci had achieved record sales under Michele's leadership, fuelling an 11% boost in profits for the brand's parent-company, Kering, and the brand's high performance continues to this day.

WHAT DOES GUCCI MEAN?

Gucci has developed over the years as a symbol of abundance representing not only the luxury fashion house, but also as a form of slang. Its most common vernacular usage is to describe something that is "doing wel'", and it can be seen in tracks by various established singers and rappers such as Cardi B and Kanye West, in addition to viral artists such as Lil Pump.

Additionally, Gucci's history with boldness and opulence has similarly meant that it has lent itself over as a consistent source of inspiration for many rappers and hip-hop artists - leading to the development of this slang.

HOW DID GUCCI START?

Gucci was founded by Italian businessman Guccio Gucci in Florence, Italy, in 1921. Gucci began his career as a hotel worker in London and Paris, where he became fascinated by the luxurious luggage carried by wealthy guests. Upon returning to Florence, he started his own business selling leather goods, including handbags and luggage, which quickly gained popularity among local aristocrats and celebrities.

In the 1930s, Gucci expanded his product line to include clothing, shoes, and other accessories, and opened stores in Rome and Milan. During World War II, the company faced supply shortages and other difficulties, but was able to bounce back in the post-war years by focusing on high-quality, distinctive designs that appealed to an international clientele.

Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, Gucci continued to grow and expand its product lines, introducing new styles such as the iconic "Flora" scarf, which was designed for Princess Grace of Monaco. The brand's popularity continued to grow in the following decades, as it became associated with luxury, glamour, and high fashion.

Today, Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a French luxury goods holding company, and is one of the most recognized and respected fashion brands in the world, known for its innovative designs, distinctive branding, and commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

WHAT IS GUCCI STYLE?

The Gucci style is known for its bold and eclectic mix of materials, patterns, and colors, often incorporating unexpected combinations of textures and prints.

It is characterized by a playful and irreverent approach to fashion, with an emphasis on creativity, individuality, and self-expression.

Gucci designs often feature opulent embellishments such as sequins, beads, and embroidery, and the brand is also known for its distinctive use of the double-G logo, which has become a symbol of luxury and status.

Under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele, Gucci has embraced an even more maximalist approach to fashion, with designs that blend vintage and contemporary influences in new and unexpected ways.

WHO ARE THE GUCCI DESIGNERS?

Tom Ford: Creative director from 1994 to 2004, credited with revitalizing the brand and turning it into a modern icon of luxury and glamour.

Frida Giannini: Creative director from 2006 to 2015, known for her feminine and sensual designs, as well as her focus on expanding the brand's accessories lines.

Alessandro Michele: Creative director 2015 to 2022, credited with bringing a fresh and eclectic new perspective to the brand, with designs that blend vintage and contemporary influences in unexpected ways. Michele's designs have been praised for their maximalist aesthetic, bold use of color and pattern, and celebration of individuality and self-expression.

Sabato De Sarno Creative director since 2023.

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Discover and Shop What's Next | Highsnobiety | Highsnobiety

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Highsnobiety is a global fashion and media brand passionate about product and the stories that shape them.

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An article about millenials and their love for Gucci products. Parts of this article were used throughout the INP.

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Gucci nearly doubled its sales in 2018 - and consumers under 35 accounted for 55% of those sales.

Gucci's creative director, Alessandro Michele, led the brand in a millennial and teen-friendly direction by showcasing pop-culture references and fresh designs.

Celebrities like Lil Pump and Kylie Jenner have further popularized the brand through Instagram and music.

The resurgence of '90s fashion trends has made logos like Gucci's popular among younger consumers who saw the styles growing up and can now wear them.

Narrator: Millennials love Gucci.
Lil Pump: Gucci gang, Gucci gang, Gucci gang, Gucci gang!
Narrator: Scroll through any fashionable millennial's social media and chances are you'll see Gucci's iconic double-G logo, whether on belts, bags, or even capes. Gucci is pretty much everywhere these days. Kylie Jenner even made headlines for carrying her baby in a $625 Gucci baby carrier.

In the first half of 2018, Gucci's sales nearly doubled. And 55% of those sales were made to consumers under 35. Considering how 18- to 35-year-olds contributed to an 85% growth in the luxury-goods market in 2017, this is a big deal.

Jessica Tyler: Millennials definitely matter in the luxury market. A lot of luxury brands have been partnering with streetwear brands and focusing on social media to try to reach millennials more because it's such a big market for them.

Narrator: But why do millennials and teens love Gucci so much?

Gucci's founder, Guccio Gucci, originally designed leather goods for the aristocratic upper classes, specializing in horseback-riding gear. As Gucci grew in popularity, it became synonymous with high-class elegance and glamour. In the 1960s, Gucci was associated with people like Jackie Kennedy. One of the Gucci bags that Jackie Kennedy was photographed wearing was even renamed "The Jackie." Today, in 2018, Gucci is still very much an expensive luxury brand, but it's no longer exclusively for the elite.

DiNardo: I think that Gucci is working from the top down to rebrand themself in a way that is very millennial-friendly, and I think that they aren't afraid to turn the tables upside down on what it means to create luxury, to sell luxury, to be a luxury company.

Narrator: In 2015, Gucci brought on Alessandro Michele as their new creative director. Under Michele's leadership, Gucci has come to embrace streetwear and the influence of popular culture.

DiNardo: Alessandro Michele is creating pop-culture references at a time in which people are really searching for a little bit of nostalgia with something new. And it's a formula that's really working. I think also Gucci is very honest about what they're doing, and genuine, and that they know that their designs are a little bit out there, to say the least, they're a little tongue-in-cheek, but they're in on the joke, they're a part of the game. And they love it.

Narrator: Recently, Gucci even collaborated with Dapper Dan, a Harlem-based designer who became famous in the '80s for creating knock-off designs of luxury brands like Gucci. Gucci's logo has come to represent more than just luxury or wealth, and millennials are embracing that, especially as logos continue to take over the fashion world again.

DiNardo: There are several reasons brand logos are making a big comeback. One, the most obvious being that everything '90s is back. And we know that logomania was a huge part of '90s fashion. Another reason why logos are making such a big comeback is that we're coming off of such a strong period of minimalism that - where else do you go but the exact opposite with fashion? And another reason why I think the logo is making a comeback is we're at a more comfortable place in society, in culture, in our economy, in wanting reassurance in the money that we have and the money that we spend.

Narrator: Back in 2015, Gucci was actually considering using its logo less in designs. In the aftermath of the 2008 , consumers were less interested in conspicuous consumption.

DiNardo: So conspicuous consumption, as defined by Veblen almost 120 years ago, really is this idea of waste. It's having what you absolutely don't need, but indicates certain symbols to society of status, so, obviously, luxury items are the epitome of that, items that, you know, are not in your essential list, in order to survive. But to thrive, in certain social circles.

Narrator: Designs emblazoned with luxury logos seemed a little too gauche at a time when so many people were struggling financially.

DiNardo: I think now that we're at a comfortable state in the economy where people are feeling, it's OK to have a status shoe, a status bag, a status T-shirt again, and there isn't such the stigma of paying $180 for a logo T-shirt as there once was.

Narrator: Millennials and teens also love Gucci because so many of them grew up seeing Gucci on celebrities or in magazines.

DiNardo: A lot of the people who are embracing the trends now, just touched on the very tip of it in their youth, but now can fully expand into it, ad nauseam, as adults, with disposable income to do so.

Narrator: So, can other luxury brands copy Gucci's success?

DiNardo: I think what other luxury-brand houses could do to continue or try to emulate the formula of Gucci really is to try to be authentic to themself. I think what Gucci, you know, does so well, which is really hard to imitate their formula, is that they're just natural, it's just a very natural way that they're approaching the market, and approaching attention, and it doesn't feel contrived. I think Gucci in 2018 represents excitement in fashion, again, it gives people something to look forward to, something to talk about.
EDITOR'S NOTE: This video was originally published in November 2018.

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Gucci nearly doubled its sales in 2018 - and consumers under 35 accounted for 55% of those sales. Gucci's creative director, Alessandro Michele, led the brand in a millennial and teen-friendly direction by showcasing pop-culture references and fresh designs. Celebrities like Lil Pump and Kylie Jenner have further popularized the brand through Instagram and music.

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Gucci's Cracked The Luxury Code With Millennials, Thanks To Its Dream Team Of Bizzarri And Michele

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Gucci's Cracked The Luxury Code With Millennials, Thanks To Its Dream Team Of Bizzarri And Michele

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I mainly used this article for Gucci figures as well for the opening of my INP.

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Kering, the global luxury group with brands including Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Brioni, Stella McCartney and others, is going gangbusters this year, with first three quarter 2017 revenues up 26.4% on reported basis over last year. Even in North America, which has been slow to advance for most luxury brands, posted a 20.7% uptick in the first half of the year.

Leading Kering's charge in year-over-year growth is Gucci, its Italian luxury fashion and leather goods brand. Gucci's was up 44.5% in the nine months ending September 30, 2017. Gucci alone makes up 39% of corporate revenues, and 57% of its Luxury Activities segment. Stunning results in a luxury market that Bain & Company expects to grow 5% in 2017.

Even more impressive, Kering's chairman and CEO Francois-Henri Pinault told CNBC that about 50% of Gucci's sales are coming from millennials, the cohort of 35-year olds and younger, a generation that has been particularly troubling for luxury brands. This generation too has embraced Saint Laurent, Gucci's sister brand, which does 65% of its business with millennials. "It means that we have a core category of customers that are between 25 and 35...The attractiveness of couture, of ready-to-wear is much higher for that clientele than it used to be for older people," he said.

In capturing the attention and dollars of millennials, numerous analysts attribute Gucci's success to its industry-leading internet strategies and how the company has managed to integrate digital connection and the in-store experience to present a true omnichannel, or channel agnostic, customer experience.

Gucci's achievements in the digital space, millennials' native channel, are remarkable. L2 Research, which specializes in data-driven analysis, gave its top spot for best performing digital fashion brand to Gucci in 2016 and it hangs onto that position in 2017. L2's measure of fashion brand's "digital competence" includes website and e-commerce, digital marketing, social media and mobile. In those key measures it outranks Michael Kors, Fendi, Burberry and Louis Vuitton, its closest digital-savvy brands.

Britton, the strategy and marketing consulting firm, in a case-study of Gucci's rise to become one the world's strongest fashion houses, writes, "Gucci has woven e-commerce, social media, digital marketing and the integration of mobile apps into the tapestry of its legacy offline business. As a consequence, the modern consumer's relationship with Gucci is holistic, which has resulted in huge returns from longtime customers and new converts alike."

But rather than attribute Gucci's success to its industry-leading digital performance, I think it is rather a sign or marker of the brand's success, like its financial reports. Gucci's phenomenal performance, especially among millennials, is not caused by its digital competence, as good as it is. Rather its success is directly attributed to the dream team that is spearheading the brand's resurgence - CEO Marco Bizzarri and creative director Alessandro Michele.
Meet Gucci's dream team
Bizzarri took over the mantle at Gucci in December 2014, replacing Patrizio di Marco who lead the company from 2009. Di Marco's exit prompted then creative director Frida Giannini to join him out to door. This left Bizzarri with his first big executive decision.

Michele was an unlikely choice for creative director, though he had joined the company in 2002 under Tom Ford and worked as associate designer to Giannini from 2011. Bizzarri says Michele wasn't on his list of creative director candidates, but a chance meeting of the two sealed the deal when Bizzarri went in search of someone in the company who could school him on the process of design.

"Intuition and instinct are more important than rationality," Bizzarri said at the WWD Summit this past October to explain his gut choice of Michele as Gucci's next creative director. The two were completely sympatico. "We were thinking the same way - for me, it was from a business standpoint, and for him, design. It was very much about empathy. You feel like you found the right person immediately."

Early they established clear divisions of labor and responsibilities, Bizzarri for business and Michele in creative design. It is said that Bizzarri doesn't discuss sales or budgets with Michele, and gives him free rein to express his creativity with no boundaries. "You cannot put limits or constraints on creativity," Bizzarri said. To that end, he has put creativity at the center of Gucci as a brand and backed it up with corporate values that foster creativity, including "respect, happiness, passion, empowerment and inclusivity."
Redesigning Gucci for the next generation
To reinvent Gucci, the Bizzarri-Michele dream team knew they had to get rid of outmoded ideas that were holding the brand back. So out went the corporate office black-and-white pictures of past celebrities that were historically the face of the brand, like Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Instead Gucci now dresses contemporary style icons that resonate with millennials, like Rhianna, Blake Lively, Brad Pitt, Rachel McAdams and Selma Hayek, not surprising as she is wife of Kering CEO Pinault. Sir Elton John is a friend of Michele's and was the inspiration for many fashions shown at Gucci's spring/summer 2018 show.

And while the previous di Marco-Giannini team deemphasized the Gucci GG logo in design, Bizzarri and Michele dug into the company archives and resurrected its GG logo to feature it prominently on handbags and other accessories, as well as bringing forward the Dionysus buckle for some shoes and handbags. The results were immediate. Six out of seven of Gucci's best-selling and high-margin accessories have been created by Michele, Bizzarri told the Julius Baer Global Advisory Board this year.

But Michele has been given room to play with the classic GG logo, a freedom hard to imagine at any other luxury brand. In an unprecedented move, Michele invited graffiti artist Trevor Andrew, aka GucciGhost, to collaborate in Gucci's fall collection for 80 pieces. Where other luxury brands would more likely file a lawsuit against such logo tampering, Michele embraced it, which says volumes about how Bizzarri and Michele look at the world and Gucci's evolving role in it.
Business Developments
Anticipating more demand for the new Gucci image, the company is adding a 35,000 sq. ft. manufacturing facility in Italy, called the Gucci Art Lab to produce leather goods and shoes. The goal is to be more responsive to growing consumer demand, as well as to enhance capabilities for the company to source and manufacture in a sustainable fashion, including its recent ban on the use of fur in its products.

On the business side as well, Gucci boutiques are getting a makeover. So far 25% of its 550 stores have been remodeled under its "New Store Concept," intended to marry the in-store shopping experience with its digital platform. By the end of the year 30 more stores will be overhauled, according to Kering CFO Jean-Marc Duplaix.

With the creative energy of Michele and Bizzarri's business acumen, plus his hands off management approach to the creative side, this dream team is ready for whatever comes next for the Gucci brand. But we can be assured that whatever it is, it will be new and different and aimed squarely at the next generation customers that are the future of the Gucci brand. "Millennials tend to have an appetite for new things and they are driven by content, emotions and personal connections. They value self-expression and they value sustainability," as Bizzarri told the Julius Baer group.

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Gucci's Cracked The Luxury Code With Millennials, Thanks To Its Dream Team Of Bizzarri And Michele

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How the dream team of CEO Marco Bizzarri and creative director Alessandro Michele are reinventing luxury brand Gucci for the next generation of customers, the millennials. They are doing it by Bizzarri giving Michele free rein on the creative side.

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Gucci’s Appeal Holds Up in Pandemic as Kering Beats Estimates

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Gucci’s Appeal Holds Up in Pandemic as Kering Beats Estimates

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This article mainly discusses the success of Gucci after COVID-19. As I wanted to speak about the luxury market after the pandemic I found this article useful as it provided information on the effects of the pandemic and Gucci.

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PARIS, France - Kering SA's revenue beat estimates as its Gucci and Bottega Veneta brands lured consumers keen to splurge on luxury treats during the pandemic.

Organic revenue fell only 1.2 percent in the third quarter, compared with analysts' projection for a 9.1 percent drop. Results were helped by a better-than-expected performance at cash cow Gucci, as well as a jump in sales at Bottega Veneta. Overall revenue came in at €3.72 billion ($4.4 billion).

Expectations for the industry were heightened after LVMH, the owner of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, reported a surprise rebound in sales of fashion and leather goods last week. Still, it's been the toughest year for luxury in decades, with many stores shut during the first half as countries imposed strict lockdowns and international travel ground to a halt.

Kering's reliance on Gucci - which represented 60 percent of total revenue last year - has been a major driver of the conglomerate's success, but the uncertain economic times could play against it. Citigroup analysts led by Thomas Chauvet wrote that they welcomed management's efforts to "tone down" the often flamboyant aesthetic at the brand to attract older consumers and not just millennials. Organic revenue at Gucci fell 8.9 percent in the quarter, less than the 10 percent drop analysts expected.

Gucci probably suffered more than some of its rivals in Europe because of its exposure to tourism, Chief Financial Officer Jean-Marc Duplaix said during a call with reporters on Thursday. Gucci has had less of a local customer base historically, he said.

While the current environment is "uncertain," the company remains "confident" of its overall strategy, the CFO said. Kering continues to try to make Gucci more exclusive by reducing its wholesale presence. The goal is for wholesale to represent less than 10 percent of the brand's revenue, which should happen sometime next year, Duplaix said.

Revenue at Bottega Veneta - known for its signature woven-leather shoes and handbags - climbed 21 percent, more than the expected gain of 4.3 percent. Sales at Saint Laurent also exceeded estimates.

While Bottega Veneta's contribution to the company remains limited, "we welcome the brand's signs of commercial success evidenced over the past year under the creative leadership of the new designer Daniel Lee," Citigroup wrote ahead of the results.
By Angelina Rascouet

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Gucci's Appeal Holds Up in Pandemic as Kering Beats Estimates

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PARIS, France - Kering SA's revenue beat estimates as its Gucci and Bottega Veneta brands lured consumers keen to splurge on luxury treats during the pandemic. Organic revenue fell only 1.2 percent in the third quarter, compared with analysts' projection for a 9.1 percent drop.

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The Rise Of Athleisure In The Fashion Industry And What It Means For Brands

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The Rise Of Athleisure In The Fashion Industry And What It Means For Brands

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This article discusses how athleisure wear has increased in the fashion industry. This was used as research to understand whether my range would be future proof and what is popular in the current market.

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Chief Marketing Officer at Launchmetrics, the leading Brand Performance Cloud in Fashion, Luxury and Beauty
The sportswear industry is clearly a winner in 2021 as consumers continue to spend time at home exercising and seeking comfort in trying times.

Although the fashion industry struggled last year, it seems that activewear and athleisure brands flourished more than ever. With the majority of business meetings taking place in front of a notebook at home, leggings, sweatpants and loungewear have quickly become inherent pieces of our professional wardrobes. According to Statista, the U.S. sports apparel market was valued at $105.1 billion in 2020 and is expected to reach $113.4 billion in 2021.

True Fit's Fashion Genome ( via Direct Commerce), which analyzes data from 17,000 brands and 180 million True Fit users, confirms that athleisure orders jumped 84% since the start of the pandemic; in the U.K. alone, sales of women's athleisure bottoms were five times higher in December 2020 than they were in April 2020. And order volumes for men's athleisure clothing sales were 20% higher than in 2019. American retailer Target reportedly reached $1 billion in sales for its activewear line, All in Motion, which had only just launched before the pandemic. According to the market research company Allied Market Research, the global activewear industry is expected to reach a value of nearly $547 billion by 2024.

That being said, this trend is not really new. I believe the '90s, which many see as a decade that shaped extraordinary music culture, have served as fashion inspiration for today's trends: White sneakers, long dresses, hoodies and baseball caps were as cool back then as they are now.

People have questioned dress codes since the beginning of the pandemic. I believe we've reached a point of no return as more and more people not only spend their time at home exercising -self-care is a trend too, according to an article by Hamutal Scheiber- but also spending their money on clothes that are simply multi-seasonal and multifunctional. Even the influencer landscape has been an indication of the rise of athleisure. According to my company's research, the top two placements for Nike during the first quarter of 2020 were two Instagram posts from Portuguese soccer player Cristiano Ronaldo, which generated over $4.12 million in Media Impact Value™ (a monetary representation of brand performance). One of them was related to Nike's Living Room Cup, and the other announced the launch of the new CR7 football cleats.

Ronaldo and Serena Williams, athletes who are well-known far outside of stadiums and tennis, have become some of the new role models for the healthy, active lifestyle that many are keen to follow. Brands often work directly with individual athletes as influencers. Many athletes are able to create quality content that also makes products look relevant to consumers.

In the latest Launchmetrics report, we analyzed the performance of athleisure over the entire year of 2020, as well as some of the trends to look out for in 2021. We evaluated 10 top players in the industry, including Nike, Reebok, Puma, Lululemon and Fila. While their performance and their Voice Mix remain different, we saw a clear tendency for their Media Impact Value™ to continually increase compared to the previous year. While Nike, Puma and Reebok generated 15% more Media Impact Value™ than in 2019, New Balance's increased by 70%, followed by Gymshark (+34% YoY) and Lululemon (+22%).

In addition, our data detected some key trends:

* Sustainability, a long-time trend in fashion, has also arrived in the athleisure market. We found that consumers continue to discover and invest in new products with sustainable, durable and high-quality materials; many brands are looking to bridge the gap between fashion and innovative-functional designs.

* Diversity and inclusivity are part of the business. By offering clothes for women of all shapes and sizes, athleisure brands can secure their place in clients' hearts.

* Luxury brands may see a new business opportunity to gain market share. From Gucci to Stella McCartney, designers have been entering the market, and I believe they will continue to either create their own performance lines or partner with other activewear brands to launch limited collections.

* On-demand classes are now communities. Athleisure brands such as Lululemon (with its yoga videos) and Alo Yoga (with its Alo Moves service) have become more inventive and developed on-demand offerings to bring yoga, fitness and wellness classes to their customers' homes and build new communities for like-minded fans.

I believe all of this will become key in informing the strategy that brands will have to adopt in order to cater to the new reality and needs of their consumers. What has become increasingly clear to me is that consumers choose brands that reflect their personal values, as illustrated in a 2020 IBM report. It is no longer enough for brands to create a functional or even aesthetically appealing product - many consumers expect them to be part of the debate and to speak up on social and political issues. More than ever, marketers should consider making socio-political engagement a part of their ethos.

More importantly, in order to make sure their message reaches the right audience, brands need to use the right voice for the right channel. This means not only choosing relevant influencers and media outlets to partner with but also being very specific about the channels they choose. Brands should also be more conscious of engaging with location-specific channels their audiences use, such as Chinese social media platforms like Douyin or Weibo. It's crucial to make sure your brand knows how to speak to the local customer to drive brand performance.

Narratives and storytelling are very important for brands, and while authenticity is important, you should also allow consumers to be a part of your brand story. Relating to the brand and its values can cultivate a sense of brand loyalty and create a long-term relationship between the brand and the consumer.

Ultimately, I believe brand performance will continue to thrive around those who understand their goals and leverage the right voices to reach the right consumers on the right channels in order to achieve their objectives and communicate their brand values.

Forbes Communications Council is an invitation-only community for executives in successful public relations, media strategy, creative and advertising agencies. Do I qualify?

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Council Post: The Rise Of Athleisure In The Fashion Industry And What It Means For Brands

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Chief Marketing Officer at Launchmetrics , the leading Brand Performance Cloud in Fashion, Luxury and Beauty The sportswear industry is clearly a winner in 2021 as consumers continue to spend time at home exercising and seeking comfort in trying times. Although the fashion industry struggled last year, it seems that activewear and athleisure brands flourished more than ever.

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Superplastic Extends a Warm Welcome to Gucci as Its Newest Collaborator

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Superplastic Extends a Warm Welcome to Gucci as Its Newest Collaborator

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I used this article to showcase current Gucci news and found this collaboration they are doing with Superplastic interesting.

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Touted as the "world's top creator of animated celebs, vinyl toys and digital collectibles," Superplastic announces a forthcoming collaboration with luxury fashion giant, Gucci.

The toymaker first revealed the news on its website, detailing a "Super secret collaboration between Janky, Guggimon, and their favorite fashion house, Gucci," and recently followed that up with an Instagram post teasing an official decal with the caption, "Welcome to tha fam."

The decal features a wave motion gif of color-blocked mauve, orange and yellow lines moving underneath both brand logos, and a bio link that directs fans to download the official Gucci mobile app. The GG app showcases the same gif and provides a brief statement on the project, encouraging fans to "Stay tuned." Conversely, Superplastic further elaborates on the excitement, quipping, "HOLY MACaronee! Yes, Gucci. Hold yer breath."

While explicit details of the collab have not yet been revealed, we might expect both brands to tap into the NFT market with specially made GG-branded items, and exclusive Janky and Guggimon collectible figurines.

In other Gucci news, the megabrand recently dropped " Chapter 2" of its ongoing collaboration with The North Face.

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Superplastic Extends a Warm Welcome to Gucci as Its Newest Collaborator

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Touted as the "world's top creator of animated celebs, vinyl toys and digital collectibles," Superplastic announces a forthcoming collaboration with luxury fashion giant, Gucci. The toymaker first revealed the news on its website, detailing a "Super secret collaboration between Janky, Guggimon, and their favorite fashion house, Gucci," and recently followed that up with an Instagram post teasing an official decal with the caption, "Welcome to tha fam."

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Tom Ford ‘laughed out loud’ during House of Gucci screening

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Tom Ford ‘laughed out loud’ during House of Gucci screening

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As House of Gucci has been the discussion since its release, I felt it would be appropriate to add something about this into my INP. I found this article about Tom Fords reaction to watching house of Gucci entertaining.

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Tom Ford ‘laughed out loud’ during House of Gucci screening

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The former creative director of the label says he felt ‘deeply sad’ after watching the film starring Lady Gaga

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Kering Group - Financial and Strategic Analysis Review

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Kering Group - Financial and Strategic Analysis Review

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As Gucci does not have a lot of financial information, I used Global Data which mentions financial information on the Kering Group which own Gucci.

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Gucci’s North America Changemakers Impact Fund and Scholarship Program open to 2022 applicants

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Gucci’s North America Changemakers Impact Fund and Scholarship Program open to 2022 applicants

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I felt that it was necessary to speak about what Gucci are doing to help people. This article on the Gucci Equilibrium website was insightful to see. I used this article to speak about the variety of positive actions that Gucci have been making and their help throughout society.

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Since its launch in 2019, Gucci has invested more than $2.5 million in multi-year grant funding to organizations working to promote social good in diverse communities throughout North America. Through Gucci Changemakers Impact Fund grant support, our 2021 non-profit recipient organizations such as Sista Afya Community Center in Chicago provided over 175 free therapy sessions to Black women experiencing multiple barriers to care. In addition, with funding from Gucci Changemakers, ProjectArt New Orleans will have provided over 100 youth with free art supplies and 30 enriching art making lessons at the end of the grant term. More so, Weird Enough Productions in Atlanta, which uses diverse media to empower young people and the adults that support them, will have impacted over 200,000 students at the end of the 2020-2021 school year.

In addition to the Impact Fund, the Gucci Changemakers Scholarship Program will award up to 10 students with a $20,000 one-year scholarship based on their financial need. Students who will have at least two semesters left at the start of the 2022 Fall Semester at an accredited community college or four-year university, including graduating high school seniors, will be eligible to apply. Students from Historically Black Colleges and Universities (HBCUs), and diverse students studying fashion, design, art, business, merchandising, law, film, music, and other creative or business-oriented programs within the 12 Changemakers focus cities are invited to apply.

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Gucci's North America Changemakers Impact Fund and Scholarship Program open to 2022 applicants

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Since its launch in 2019, Gucci has invested more than $2.5 million in multi-year grant funding to organizations working to promote social good in diverse communities throughout North America. Through Gucci Changemakers Impact Fund grant support, our 2021 non-profit recipient organizations such as Sista Afya Community Center in Chicago provided over 175 free therapy sessions to Black women experiencing multiple barriers to care.

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Continuing Our Work with UNICEF through Support of Equitable COVID-19 Vaccine Delivery

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Continuing Our Work with UNICEF through Support of Equitable COVID-19 Vaccine Delivery

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The article also felt that it would be appropriate to use for the timing. As the pandemic is still in existence and vaccines are sill being taken, it was interesting to see Gucci's input and help with rolling the vaccine out. I used this in my INP to show the variety of ways that Gucci has been helping people.

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Continuing Our Work with UNICEF through Support of Equitable COVID-19 Vaccine Delivery

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In December 2020, Gucci donated $500,000 to UNICEF, with an additional $100,000 on behalf of the Gucci Community, in support of UNICEF's work in preparing for the roll-out of safe COVID-19 vaccines, including logistics to forecast demand, the preparation of cold chains (temperature-controlled supply chains) and the advance purchasing of supplies.

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Active Forecast AW22/23 - Supercharged Simplicity

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Active Forecast AW22/23 - Supercharged Simplicity

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I used WGSN to find out about athleisure wear trends for Autumn Winter 22/23. This article also helped me choose my colour palette as it mentioned the key colour for this season.

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Kering Shares Fall After Gucci Growth Slows on Pandemic Impact

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Kering Shares Fall After Gucci Growth Slows on Pandemic Impact

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This article assisted with further financial information on Gucci as most of the articles had financial details on the Kering group. I was able to add this to my executive summary.

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Burberry and Gucci have the most Advanced Omnichannel Strategies in Luxury 

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Burberry and Gucci have the most Advanced Omnichannel Strategies in Luxury 

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I used this article to dig deeper into Gucc's omnichannel strategies. Ideas from this article were implemented into the INP throughout.

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During a media briefing last week, a representative for the National Retail Federation noted that in today's tough shopping environment, the stores that win tend to be those that have invested resources in integrating the digital and in-store experiences, also known as employing an omnichannel strategy. At some point in the future, he added, we won't even talk about "omnichannel" anymore. It will just be the way that retailers interact with customers.

We're not there quite yet. According to a new report from the digital research group L2, some players are doing omnichannel better than others. And on a whole, the luxury sector is not coming out a winner.

As Maureen Mullen, L2's co-founder and head of research, puts it, "Omnichannel is greasing the skids to purchase." That means everything from allowing shoppers to view inventory online, to offering in-store pickup and having the ability to ship packages not just from an online warehouse but also individual stores. From a company culture standpoint, it means structuring employee incentives such that both the e-commerce and in-store teams get credit when a customer makes a purchase.

Within the "notoriously weak" fashion world, the strongest omnichannel players are currently Gucci and Burberry, Mullen says. Gucci launched in-store inventory visibility to empower its customers, while Burberry has put that information in the hands of its sales associates; the latter is also one of the few luxury players that offers in-store pickup on online purchases. Nordstrom, which puts iPads in dressing rooms and in the hands of its employees, also offers the option to ship an online purchase from a nearby store, which both helps it clear inventory from slower-moving locations and get the product in the shopper's hands faster.

Of course, omnichannel has particular appeal for younger shoppers, for whom a self-serve model - being able to check inventory levels for themselves, etc. - can feel more authentic than working with a sales associate in the store, Mullen says. The younger generation doesn't necessarily need to be wooed with a glass of champagne when stepping inside a Prada store. They want better information.

In keeping with earlier reports, L2 notes an uptick in preference for "webrooming" - researching a product online but heading out to the store to make the purchase - over "showrooming," the practice of browsing in a store and finding a better price online that had a lot of retailers worried. Particularly with expensive luxury purchases, customers ultimately do want to touch and feel the product before buying - they just happen to enter the store much further down the purchase pipeline.

Plus, most people don't live in a doorman apartment building in Manhattan. Who wants to leave her Céline bag sitting on the front stoop all day?

Homepage photo: Angela Quitoriano

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Burberry and Gucci Have the Most Advanced Omnichannel Strategies in Luxury, Study Says

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During a media briefing last week, a representative for the National Retail Federation noted that in today's tough shopping environment, the stores that win tend to be those that have invested resources in integrating the digital and in-store experiences, also known as employing an omnichannel strategy.

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To do my compshop I wanted to use the history of each brand I was comparing Gucci to. This website goes into the history of Louis Vuitton which I added to my comp shop section.

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Founded at the dawn of the modern travel era, Louis Vuitton is on a perpetual mission to explore new horizons, propelled by an innovative spirit, boundless creativity, and unparalleled savoir-faire.

Creation date: 1854
Chairman and CEO: Pietro Beccari
Head office: 2, rue du Pont-Neuf, 75001 Paris - France
Website: www.louisvuitton.com

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Identity

Founded in Paris in 1854, Louis Vuitton perpetuates the ambitious vision of its namesake. From his origins as a master trunk maker, manufacturing boxes used to pack both everyday objects as well as voluminous wardrobes, Louis Vuitton and his successors introduced numerous innovations including the advent of the flat-top trunk, lightweight canvas, signature patterns, and the tumbler lock. Today, Louis Vuitton's legacy is expressed through its rigorous spirit of innovation, the boldness of its creations and an uncompromising demand for excellence.

Inspirations

Born out of an unquenchable thirst for exploration, Louis Vuitton carries on its founder's values of savoir-faire, creativity and innovation. With the advent of new modes of travel, Louis Vuitton creates cutting-edge designs, materials and ergonomics adapted to specific demands of the journey and the travelers, developing new expertise in increasingly varied fields. Always the pioneer and never afraid of distant horizons, the Maison continues to accompany its clientele wherever they dream of traveling to discover unknown territories.

Outlook

Today, Louis Vuitton expresses its daring spirit by developing additional savoir-faire in a growing number of related crafts, always propelled by an inexhaustible desire to do the unexpected. Historically known for its Damier and Monogram canvases, the Maison also creates leather goods in a range of finishes such as the iconic Epi, as well as increasingly sophisticated leathers and models such as the timeless Capucines bag. Starting at the end of the 20 th century, Louis Vuitton reconnected with its founder's expertise as a wardrobe packer with the launch of fashion collections for both women and men, now headed by Artistic Director Nicolas Ghesquière. Since then, the Maison has also ventured into the domains of watchemaking with the Tambour timepieces, jewellery headed by Artistic Director Francesca Amfitheatrof, as well as fragrances with Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. Frequently collaborating with world-renowned artists and architects, the Maison presents the Louis Vuitton Objets Nomades collection of travel-inspired objects and furniture imagined by a growing list of leading international designers.

4 rue des Capucines: Louis Vuitton's first store opens in 1854

17 leather goods workshops in France

250 the average number of operations needed to create a Louis Vuitton leather bag

Discover the other Houses - Fashion & Leather Goods

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Louis Vuitton, exceptional ready-to-wear - Fashion & Leather Goods - LVMH

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Since its creation, the House of Louis Vuitton has been driven by its desire to explore new horizons and accompany a world in motion - LVMH

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Parts of this article were added to my comp shop for Dior. It helped me understand Dior's history and comparing it Gucci.

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lines were quickly christened the "New Look", a phrase coined by

US *Harper's Bazaar * magazine editor Carmel Snow.

The look consisted of a calf-length, full skirt, a cinched waist

and fuller bust than had been seen since the turn of the century. A

rebuttal to post-war fabric restrictions - the average dress used

20 yards of fabric - the look received some criticism upon release.

The opulence of his designs contrasted with the grim post-war

reality of Europe, and helped re-establish Paris as the joyful

fashion capital it had once been.

The house was inundated with orders and world-famous stars such as Rita Hayworth and Margot Fonteyn bought and wore pieces, raising Dior's profile significantly. Dior was even invited to stage a private presentation of the collection for the British royal family - although King George V reportedly forbade the young princesses, Elizabeth and Margaret, from wearing the New Look in case it set a bad example at a time when rationing was still in force.

He was known to be very superstitious, a quality which increased with age. Each collection included a coat named after his place of birth, Granville; in each show at least one model wore a bunch of his favourite flower, lily of the valley; and he never began a couture show without having consulted his tarot card reader.

Dior established a luxury ready-to-wear house on the corner of 5 th Avenue and 57 th Street in New York in November 1948. It was the first of its kind. In the same year, he launched Dior Parfums - with Miss Dior being the first fragrance to launch, and Diorama launching the following year.

In 1949, Dior was the first couturier to arrange licensed production of his designs. Having realised the importance of the complete look - and that the New Look could not be successfully achieved without the correct Dior shoes, gloves and hat - Dior, together with business partner Jacques Rouët, licensed his name to a range of luxury accessories. Furs, stockings, ties and perfume were also manufactured in regional centres across the world, spreading his brand name quickly around the globe. Although this move was heavily criticised by the French Chamber of Couture - who denounced the move as cheapening the haute couture industry - licensing became a profitable move for Dior and the atelier's lesson was followed by nearly all of the period's fashion houses.

In 1955, the 19-year-old Yves Saint Laurent became Dior's design assistant. Christian Dior later met with Yves Saint Laurent's mother, Lucienne Mathieu-Saint Laurent, in 1957 to tell her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him at Dior. She said at the time she had been confused by the remark, as Dior was only 52 at the time.

Shortly after his meeting with Saint Laurent's mother, Christian Dior suffered a fatal heart attack on October 24, 1957, leaving the house in disarray. Some 2,500 people attended his funeral, including all of his staff and famous clients led by the Duchess of Windsor. In an attempt to stabilise the label, Jacques Rouët appointed the then-21-year-old Yves Saint-Laurent as artistic director.

Saint Laurent remained in the position until he was conscripted into the army, during which time he was dismissed from Dior by Rouët and replaced by Marc Bohan. Bohan proved very successful as Saint Laurent's replacement, defining a new era and new silhouette for Dior, the Slim Look, a more modern and svelte version of Dior's iconic shape.

In 1978, the Boussac Group filed for bankruptcy and its assets, including Dior, were sold to the Willot Group. After it went into administration, Bernard Arnault and his investment group purchased the Willot Group's holdings for "one symbolic franc" in 1984. On assuming power, Arnault drastically altered Dior's operations. In 1985, Arnault became chairman, CEO and managing director of Christian Dior. He repositioned it as the holding company Christian Dior S.A and in 1988, took a 32 per cent equity stake into the share capital of LVMH creating one of the leading and most influential luxury goods conglomerates in the world, whilst Christian Dior remains to stand alone as a megabrand in it's own right.

Gianfranco Ferre was made stylistic director of Christian Dior in 1989, replacing Marc Bohan. He remained in this position until 1997.

In 1997, Arnault appointed British designer John Galliano to replace Marc Bohan at the creative helm. "Galliano has a creative talent very close to that of Christian Dior. He has the same extraordinary mixture of romanticism, feminism and modernity that symbolised Monsieur Dior. In all of his creations - his suits, his dresses - one finds similarities to the Dior style," said Arnault of Galliano.

Galliano was creative director of Christian Dior until March 2011, when he was dismissed after being filmed slurring anti-Semitic remarks and allegedly assaulting a member of the public whilst heavily intoxicated in a Paris bar. Galliano's former-design director Bill Gayten headed up the house until April 9 2012 when it was announced, after more than a year of rumour and speculation, that Raf Simons had taken over as 'artistic director' at the house.

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I used Edited to find out about Gucci's current colour mix. By using this it helped me to understand how much mix of each colour in palette I will be using across my range.

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4 Ways The Luxury Market Is Becoming More Sustainable

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4 Ways The Luxury Market Is Becoming More Sustainable

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This article was able to give me an insight into how the luxury fashion market is becoming more sustainable. It mentions fabric innovation as well as how luxury brands are supporting a circular economy.

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The fashion industry has been rightly criticized for its negative environmental impact, however, shopping doesn't have to come with guilt-ridden, doom-and-gloom feeling. Numerous luxury labels are working to become more sustainable, serving as a glimmer of hope and sign of progress. Though the most harmful effects frequently are equated with the fast-fashion corner of the market, luxury and contemporary labels aren't immune to the controversy. Working conditions, a brand's carbon footprint, and contribution to excessive waste are fodder for ethical criticism across the spectrum. The primary argument made for the luxury end of the market is the rationalization that something made of high-quality fabrics and craftsmanship will ostensibly last a lifetime. But, this doesn't mean there aren't improvements to be made, especially for labels with the capital to innovate.

The "investment piece" argument holds true in many cases - in second-hand luxury retailer Fashionphile's 2021 Sustainability Report, 88 percent of luxury handbag owners said they hold onto their bags for a very long time, with 33 percent anticipating over ten years of ownership. Increasingly, consumers are considering ways to do more with less. "The most important consideration when shopping should be whether we actually need something new. Sometimes we might find that with a little creativity, we can get by with what we already own," says Rachael Wang, a stylist, brand consultant, and sustainability advocate.

So, as brands continue to re-work production processes, implement more ethical materials, and shift to a mindset centered around circularity, more responsible creation is possible. These efforts take time to be put in place effectively, especially for brands producing on a large global scale. But with each innovation or shift comes a greater customer craving for more ethical luxury goods. Ahead, four sustainable developments worth taking note of when shopping at luxury labels. They're not the end-all, be-all, nor the only changes the industry needs to see. But at the very least, each is a step in the right direction.

How Luxury Brands Are Becoming More Sustainable: Fabric Innovation

"The climate crisis has forced the fashion industry to reckon with the vast environmental toll it's responsible for," Wang tells TZR. "As consumers become more vocal about demanding fashion with a lower environmental impact and a greater social impact, brands have become motivated to audit their practices. The luxury sector is no exception."

One of the most innovative ways a luxury brand can lessen its adverse environmental effects is through fabric changes, which go far beyond recycled and responsibly sourced organic textiles, though both are ethically favorable. "Aside from Stella McCartney, an ethical fashion pioneer, the luxury fashion industry has largely ignored its processes' social and environmental impact," Wang continues. But things are looking up.

Said fabric innovations, largely inducted by McCartney, include rose petal fibers and fabric sourced from hemp, bamboo, and banana, materials that ethical New Zealand-based designer Maggie Marilyn incorporates into her collections. Then there's ECONYL® - regenerated nylon made from waste, such as discarded fishing nets or carpets - which Gucci uses in the Off The Grid collection accessories and ready-to-wear, and Prada also utilizes in its Re-Nylon collection of sportswear-inspired clothing and accessories.

Cruelty-free leather alternatives like Piñatex and Mylo™ - the former being an innovative natural textile made from pineapple leaf fiber, and the latter, an infinitely renewable vegan material grown from mycelium, the underground root structure of mushrooms with the look and feel of leather, is among the most innovative. McCartney, who started using Mylo™ to create accessories in 2018, has since designed the world's first-ever garments made from the material - a bustier top and trousers released in March 2021. Hermès also announced a new edition of its Victoria bag march from mycelium in March this year.

"I believe the Stella community should never have to compromise luxury desirability for sustainability, and Mylo™ allows us to make that a reality," the designer says in a press release. "These rare, exclusive pieces embody our shared commitment with Bolt Threads to innovate a kinder fashion industry - one that sees the birth of beautiful, luxurious materials as opposed to the deaths of our fellow creatures and planet."

These material innovations stand for much progress for the future of large-scale production, as Dan Widmaier, Bolt Threads CEO and founder, points out. "Creating new, high-quality biomaterials is a major technological challenge and a massive opportunity for people and the planet," he says. "The material used in these two garments not only represents a huge step forward in both aesthetics and performance of biomaterials but also marks the beginning of the rollout of product-ready Mylo™. [It] can make a significant positive impact."

"From a production standpoint, they are more cost-efficient," Amanda Hearst, founder of the ethical retailer Maison de Mode, tells TZR of these vegan leather alternatives. "The cattle leather industry is not sustainable." Adding, "As more brands gravitate toward using mushroom leather and pineapple leather, more animal lives will be saved - innovation is leading to animal protection, which is a truly beautiful thing."

How Luxury Brands Are Becoming More Sustainable: Upcycling Materials & Supporting A Circular Economy

The second-hand market has boomed over the last year, drawing attention to the importance of circularity, as has the course of upcycling materials in luxury designer collections. "Sustainability has become increasingly important to our members over the years, and it's now a motivating factor for them to support resale," James Rogers, director of sustainability at The RealReal, tells TZR. "About half of our consignors cite environmental impact as a key motivator to sell with us, and 33 percent of our customers say they shop TRR as a replacement for fast fashion. We've also seen search demand for sustainable brands is 4.4 times stronger than it was three years ago. Consumers are eager to support brands that align with their values and prioritize sustainability."

On the brand front, Spanish luxury fashion house Loewe launched The Surplus Project in March. The brand uses scrap leather to create the label's trademark Woven basket bag, which first appeared in the Spring/Summer 2015 collection - creative director Jonathan Anderson's debut. New York-based label, Altuzarra introduced the brand's Re-Crafted program for Spring/Summer 2021 as part of an ongoing commitment to sustainability where fabrics from past seasons and archival collections are re-spun to create one-of-a-kind pieces. In celebration of Earth Day, Fendi debuted a new basket bag made entirely of recycled PVC - an ethically-minded throwback to designer Silvia Venturini Fendi's childhood summer memories at the beach in the '80s.

Wang describes these luxury developments as "a relief," which extends to circularity efforts, like the booming second-hand luxury market and how brands are focusing on "extending the life cycles of garments by partnering with online consignment sites like The RealReal." Another welcome change is take-back programs, which ethical designer Mara Hoffman - who Wang styles, creative directs, and consults for - began "to confront the issue of waste and the end life of garments," Wang explains. Customers can buy and sell pre-owned Mara Hoffman garments, giving items already in existence a chance at a new beginning.

"Upcycling has been one of the most noticeable rising trends in the industry and a practice we've supported more and more over the years," Rogers says. According to TRR sustainability director, partnerships and upcycled collaborations with Gucci, Stella McCartney, and Collina Strada have all seen strong engagement among shoppers, which he hopes continues on an even bigger scale with the ReCollection initiative - a program giving new life to pieces that are distressed, damaged, or otherwise unusable to create one-of-a-kind pieces. Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, and Jacquemus were partners in the first iteration. "It creates an opportunity for brands to easily engage with resale, and we hope it will spark more conversations with them around creative ways we can collaborate," Rogers says.

He continues, "To reduce [fashion's] very problematic footprint, we need to keep items in circulation to avoid them being part of the garbage trucks worth of textiles that are landfilled or burned every second. We hope that through all of the sustainability work we're doing ... from adding repair services at all of our stores to help members keep their luxury items in good condition to showing the positive environmental impact of buying second hand with our sustainability calculator ... we're inspiring shoppers to be more conscious about how and what they consume."

Rogers hopes that brands start following three principles of the circular economy: Design out waste and pollution, keep products and materials in use as long as possible, and regenerate natural systems. "To me, that starts with using regenerative materials and designing with an afterlife in mind," he says. "We want to sell pieces made of quality materials that can and will have many lives."

How Luxury Brands Are Becoming More Sustainable: Human Rights Initiatives

"Human rights crises - like the Rana Plaza collapse - have exposed a systematic prioritization of profit at the expense of tens of millions of garment workers around the world that can no longer be ignored," Wang says. "I'd like to see luxury fashion brands pay each person in their supply chain a fair wage, provide fair working conditions and support the right for garment workers to unionize without retribution."

A luxury label making this type of progress is Chloé. In her new creative director role, designer Gabriela Hearst introduced the world's first fair trade-verified luxury bag collection in partnership with the World Fair Trade Organization this April. The four Woody panier styles are hand-woven by women in Kenya and made from natural environmentally responsible fibers, including fair trade paper, and are ethically produced in collaboration with Mifuko - a company empowering Kenyan artisans through fair pay and less dependence on unpredictable farming as a source of income.

Burberry has made similar strides. The Burberry Foundation is developing a more inclusive, sustainable, and resilient cashmere industry in Afghanistan with a five-year program in partnership with Oxfam and PUR Projet to help herders enhance their livelihoods for a better future. Smaller luxury brands like Alighieri, Bode, and Veja are similarly driving change and becoming an increasingly important consideration to shoppers, as Farfetch highlights in the online luxury retailer's first annual Conscious Luxury Trends Report. According to findings, the ethical treatment of workers, including fair conditions and wages for those creating the pieces, is the second most important consideration among shoppers after the quality and durability of a product.

How Luxury Brands Are Becoming More Sustainable: Promoting Diverse & Ethical Luxury Labels

As the demand for sustainable luxury goods grows, so does the desire for brand discovery. Behemoths like Gucci, Stella McCartney, and Prada will continue to be the most coveted by many shoppers. And while each brand is innovating sustainably, there are more labels to be discovered, many of which drive the industry's sustainable transformation.

"Almost all of us now know that the fashion industry can have a negative impact on communities, people, animals, and the natural world. The challenge I keep hearing is: 'I want to shop better, but I don't know how,'" Hearst tells TZR. "That statement is exactly why I started Maison de Mode. I wanted people to have a one-stop-shop where they could shop chic, luxurious products that are also responsibly made."

You may already be familiar with some of the designers Hearst carries, like Amur, Campo Collection, and Lingua Franca. Other emerging brands, like STUDIO 189, Mastani, and Fanm Mon, are just a few of the many deserving more recognition. "There is rightly judgment when a brand does not consider the environment and the people who make their products," Hearst tells TZR. "When we launched our first Maison de Mode pop-up in 2012, we had six brands in the store. And even finding those brands was a challenge. Now, our online boutique showcases around 80 brands [spanning] fashion, accessories, home, and there are many more brands out there we know and love. So, in almost a decade, we've seen many more fashion companies incorporate sustainability into their business."

Wang points out, "From their inception, BIPOC-owned brands like Telfar, Phlemuns, No Sesso, and Ahluwalia have followed in the steps of Indigenous cultures worldwide to design with waste reduction in mind." Another designer on the rise is Autumn Adeigbo, a first-generation Nigerian-American who attributes her innate love of fashion to her mom, who made all of her clothes growing up. Adeigbo uses traceable materials and deadstock fabrics while minimizing waste by producing in limited runs. What's more, she's devoted to positively impacting women across cultures by utilizing female-owned production facilities in the U.S. and providing global artisans with meaningful employment and fair wages.

Hearst says, "I think understanding what exactly 'sustainability' is can be a great challenge for consumers. But I would say sustainable fashion is fashion that considers the environment and the people who make it. That said, don't be overwhelmed - fashion is fun. Start looking at the brands on our site and researching others you like online. Shopping sustainably isn't about being perfect. It's about doing the best you can with the knowledge you have. And when you know more, you do better."

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4 Ways The Luxury Market Is Becoming More Sustainable

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The fashion industry has been rightly criticized for its negative environmental impact, however, shopping doesn't have to come with guilt-ridden, doom-and-gloom feeling. Numerous luxury labels are working to become more sustainable, serving as a glimmer of hope and sign of progress.

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Sustainable Activewear Brands for an Ethical Workout

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Sustainable Activewear Brands for an Ethical Workout

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This article was mainly used for inspiration to see what other activewear brands are doing in terms of sustainability and what fibres have been used thus far. This article has allowed me to understand why it is so important to use sustainable within activewear and also implemented the reasoning into my INP.

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A Comprehensive Sustainable Activewear Guide: They say one good habit leads to another... that's how it is for many people who decide to cut unethical and unsustainable products from their lives. Suddenly they're more active, eat healthily, and feel happier about the choices they make.

By Sonia Ahmed

Finding sustainable workout gear was a bit difficult some years back, but not today. Now, you can find many brands willing to go the extra mile for the environment. Sports and fitness related businesses are usually more knowledgeable and inclined to adopt sustainable practices and ethical supply and distribution chain for their products.

So here's how you can stay ethically fit and keep the earth healthy and happy with the best sustainable activewear brands on the market.

Girlfriend Collective

Table of Contents

Qualities of an Ethical and Sustainable Activewear Brand

Before we discuss the brands, let's quickly go over what you should look for in an ethical and sustainable workout clothes brand.

What is sustainable activewear?

That's a given! Look for organic cotton, hemp or bamboo mixed with a little bit of recycled synthetic fibers for flexibility. Tencel is also quite a popular choice among ethical activewear brands. So, if you find the names Lyocell or Modal in a shirt or trouser, know that it's Tencel.

Many eco-friendly sports gear companies are doing an excellent job recycling plastic and using it to make new products. The only thing you need to worry about is the microfibers that eventually break off as you wash your clothes. They can end up in our waterways unless we use specific filters to catch them and dispose off them safely.

Whether a brand manufactures its products without harming the environment is perhaps the essential factor that makes eco-friendly brands stand out. Green products are produced without using any harmful chemicals, and they either recycle all the waste or dispose it off responsibly.

Fair Labor and Transparent Supply Chain

A brand isn't entirely sustainable until it doesn't source all of its raw materials from renewable resources. From raw material to the final product, these brands ensure fair trade practices. They provide fair wages and benefits for the workers and take practical steps to keep down their carbon footprint.

Most sustainable and eco-friendly brands are passionate about uplifting the society. They engage in community work and commit to various charities and nonprofits. They also encourage their consumers to donate for the betterment of the community.
For help with the rest of your wardrobe, see our complete guide to ethical and sustainable clothing brands.
Top Sustainable Activewear Brands

Now that you know how to ensure buying eco-friendly products let's discuss these sustainable and ethical activewear brands dominating the fitness market.

If you're looking for fashion-forward gym wear that complements your body curves, then Girlfriend Collective is your answer!

Girlfriend Collective brings a touch of elegance and sophistication to sportswear made to flatter all shapes and sizes. The brand intricately designs aesthetic and luxurious activewear, without incurring any environmental or social damage in the process.
Ever wondered: Where can I buy sustainable leggings?
As of now, they've recycled over 8 million water bottles and fishing nets. Each pair of leggings by the brand is made by recycling 25 plastic bottles. Girlfriend Collective makes no compromises when it comes to the perfect fit, feel or function. Their fabrics are super soft, flatter your curves and do not pill. Moreover, they are made while following all labor rights.

What makes the brand more prominent is that they are a completely female-oriented organization. They are empowering the women with fair trade, comfortable working situations, and guaranteeing adequate healthcare to all.

"Sustainable Activewear" is an ever-growing trend, with now hundreds of brands getting on board and each doing their part to tackle the issues of environmental and ethical concern that plague the industry. But is it enough? Franziska Mesche, the founder of Swedish Activewear brand Tripulse, didn't think so, which is why she set herself the challenge of pushing the possibilities of ethical sportswear further than ever before.

To begin with, though the company was created on the principle of very low carbon emissions. In fact, they're Climate Neutral Certified, having partnered with Climate Neutral to measure their 2020 carbon footprint and purchase carbon credits to offset this footprint in its entirety.

Then there is the process: They avoid materials that shed harmful microplastics, making use of innovative natural fibers that perform just as well, if not better, and without the associated environmental harm; their material suppliers and their GOTS-certified clothing production factory are based in countries that have fair labor conditions; and their packaging materials not only avoid plastics but are also reusable, recyclable, biodegradable, and kept to a minimum.

Finally, there is their mantra: fitness, sustainability and community. The "life purpose" of Tripulse is three-fold: to better themselves every day in every way, to inspire people to be more active, and to make fitness a driver for positive change.

They've also just released their Tencel "Made to Move" shorts. With a unique composition of biodegradable and compostable TENCEL™ and Roica® V550, they are completely microplastic-free.

is a certified sustainable activewear brand with eco-ethics ingrained in every fiber. The brand creates the softest, most comfortable clothing essentials, sports bras, underwear, and basics for men, women, and kids.

Boody fabricates its revolutionary products from organic bamboo yarn that's treated only with water and no chemicals. The brand's organic products are ethically sourced with sustainable materials. Bamboo as a raw material has many benefits including extraordinary growth and re-harvesting without any ecological damage.

Boody boasts a zero-waste production system and believes in giving back to the planet. For this reason, they donate a considerable part of their sales for the betterment of the world.

When Iron Roots decided to create ethical activewear, they pledged to go 100% plastic-free. Each time we wash polyester clothing, it releases microfibers that end up in oceans and then in our food chain. Sure, oil-based fabrics are silky, stretchy, and sweat-free, but that was exactly the challenge Iron Roots had to tackle!

To achieve the same feel and performance, the brand uses unusual fabric sources such as natural and organic Hemp and the TENCEL fabric made from Eucalyptus and Beech trees. As a result, you'll find their activewear almost as soft and sweat-tolerant with another plus; their clothes are antibacterial.

Moreover, you can return your old apparel to the brand for recycling and get an incredible 15% discount on your next purchase. The company manufactures in GOTS and ISO certified factories that follow fair-trade policies. The brand is also supported by Climate-KIC, a climate-resilient society working for a zero-carbon future.

A sustainable and active life is worth living! With this ideology, Wolven is working towards a world of sustainability. They manufacture innovative, state-of-the-art activewear designed with sustainability and usability in mind.

Wolven is a carbon-neutral brand, taking their carbon footprint and greenhouse gas emission status seriously. The company is OEKO-Tex and Climate Neutral Certified and a partner of Global Recycled Standard, and Workplace Conditions Assessment.

What makes Wolven beautifully unique andsexily sustainable is that they convert BPA-free bottles to non-toxic fabric for their clothes. They spin the pellet into yarn and weave them into comfy clothing solutions. Moreover, their packaging is reusable and biodegradable as well.

The brand is also part of the Cancel Plastic initiative where they have partnered with ECSSA to remove one pound of trash from oceans for each sale they make!

Indigo Luna is an ethically responsible brand, manufacturing high-quality, eco-conscious, and sustainable yoga wear, swimwear, and linen. With no exploitation of humans, animals, and the environment we live in, the brand is introducing affordability to the sustainable activewear market.

The brand uses recycled or organic materials for manufacturing, saving the ecosystem from excessive waste. They have replaced plastic with biodegradable cassava starch and use natural dyes that are obtained from organically grown vegetation.

They have also collaborated with ECONYL® for regenerating nylon waste into usable fabric. Indigo Luna is stepping up in protecting the environment from plastic pollution, eliminating the usage of harmful chemicals, and moving towards a more sustainable world.

Breaking the "lazy stoner" stereotype, Stigma is a brand focused on spreading positivity about people who use cannabis. They are a sustainable activewear clothing brand that portrays a brilliant lifestyle encouraging wellness, positivity, and an optimistic mindset.

The brand is in favor of utilizing organic hemp by following fair trade practices. With the minimum carbon footprint, Stigma pursues sustainable manufacturing solutions. From tanks to bras, leggings, joggers, performance shorts, and hoodies, the brand uses sustainable fabrics such as rPET (recycled plastic bottles) and organic cotton.

Their activewear line is not only trendy but also delivers a compelling message to portray cannabis consumers as productive and active individuals, thus helping break the stereotype.

Stigma has also introduced a CBD (Cannabidiol) muscular gel that effectively soothes aches and pains. It is THC (Tetrahydrocannabinol) free, obtained from organically grown plants, and 100% vegan.

With the intention of finding a natural alternative to the synthetic fabric, Vyayama established itself as a sustainable brand, manufacturing non-toxic, skin-friendly, and ethically made clothes. You can find leggings, tees, tanks, bralettes, and other accessories, all made from sustainable fabric.

Vyayama is an Oeko-Tex Standard Certified brand, using environmentally friendly dyes obtained from natural resources so the brand is completely safe for people with sensitive skin or those who are allergic to synthetic dyes. The fabric is renewable, extremely soft and comfy, and dries out swiftly when wet.

Preferring plants over plastic, the activewear by Vyayama uses noble and natural fibers sourced sustainably. It is the brand's motto to ensure quality for a beautiful and modern lifestyle while protecting the planet.

Threads 4 Thought is another sustainable activewear brand with a focus on affordability. It uses eco-friendly materials like organic cotton, Lenzing modal fibers, and recycled polyester in its garments. The brand features a bold yet sophisticated look in its fashion sportswear collection.

Each one of their contemporary activewear products is unique and makes you feel good! Thread 4 Thoughts factories are all WARP-certified. The company uses recycled water and reduces wastewater by 80 percent.

Thread 4 Thoughts is a socio-responsible brand that raises donations for the uplifting of the community. It has partnered with the International Rescue Committee to help refugees live better lives and for reducing environmental issues.

Looking for eco-friendly and sung crop tops and leggings, the ones that flatter your curves, shape your flab, and show-off your body as you work out? Then tick those small boxes for Outdoor Voices . It's a revolutionary clothing brand that wants you to get moving and look good doing it!

From daily wear to sweaty workout gear, Outdoor Voices has top-notch quality products to match your needs. Plus, the entire business model from products to shops' architecture is built to last and stay out of landfills. They're working hard to make at least 50% of their products certified by Bluesign by 2021.

Outdoor Voices has also partnered with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and the Nature Conservancy. The company also raises funds for raising awareness around sustainability, conservation, and carbon offsetting.

Eloquent in the language of creating premium quality apparel, is best known for fabricating contemporary activewear basics.

The Pact has a mission to make organic apparel affordable and suitable for everyday use. They not only offer high-quality but make all their products from ethically sourced GOTS certified organic cotton. The brand adheres to fair labor laws and ensures humane working conditions under Fair Trade certification.

Apart from manufacturing state-of-the-art activewear that is both sustainable and affordable, Pact has also innovated its plastic packing. The brand uses a compostable plastic packaging that degrades quickly in a landfill but is also recyclable like typical plastic.

Groceries Apparel

Looking for something new, impeccable and ethically sourced in activewear? Then revamp your wardrobe with Groceries Apparel's inventive and eccentric clothing!

Ranging from thick holds-you-in-all-the-right-places yoga pants to high-quality athleisure leggings, Groceries Apparel provides you with 100% natural activewear. They manufacture all their products in their factory in Los Angeles, CA.

The brand uses certified organic and recycled cotton, hemp, and eucalyptus fabric with natural vegetable dyes. As a result, you get non-toxic and 100% natural clothing, diligently designed from sustainable materials.

But that's not all! This activewear brand empowers human beings through fair wage, fair-trade, and appropriate working conditions across its entire chain of factories.

Versatile, form-fitting, and insanely comfortable are just a few words that describe Kaira Active, a breakout, eco-friendly activewear company designed and made in LA. Featuring bold patterns, flattering cuts, and quick-dry technology, this isn't your ordinary athletic wear.

Made to be functional enough for any adventure, cozy enough for lounging or working from home, and stylish enough to be dressed up with your favorite blazer, the possibilities are endless.

Kaira Active's mission doesn't stop at style and aesthetics, however. The company was founded with a goal to clean and protect the world's oceans; this is embedded in every aspect of the business. From fabrics made out of ocean plastics and fishnets to 100% recycled packaging for orders, Kaira Active's business model is built around sustainability without sacrificing style.

Looking for an all-in-one shop where you can get sustainable sports bras as well as ethically sourced jackets? Then stop right here, because matches your requirements to the T.

Ranging from diligently crafted sustainable activewear made to move with you to cute dresses you could rock on your first day at work, Athleta has designs for every size and age! It's a B-corp certified brand with many long term goals at achieving 100% sustainability and zero waste.

Athleta is not only mindful of the environment but also your comfort, performance, and aesthetics. With Athleta, you can feel good, wear good, and breathe even better.

Athleta believes in helping the world move forward. For this reason, they provide advanced education to their workers, helping them develop life skills through their PACE program.

Looking for a brand that you can wear to your morning run as well as to the brunch? Then is your go-to place!

Patagonia sells high-quality, aesthetic activewear, as well as unique, comfy casual clothes for people of all ages. However, it's more popular as an outdoor adventure clothing brand that has top-notch quality and eco-friendly production.

Patagonia sells its high-performance sportswear with the promise of sustainability. The brand follows strict policies in its factories to ensure safe working conditions and ethical labor policies. It also donates 1% of their sales to the preservation and restoration of the natural environment.

What to Look For When Choosing Activewear

Buying sustainable products is everyone's responsibility, but sustainable activewear doesn't automatically become the most suitable for you. The following are a few of the qualities you should look for in any sportswear clothing product to ensure maximum comfort and productivity.

Well, here are some of the few standard yet essential features of eco-friendly sportswear.

Comfort

Of course, it's the first thing you should look for in an activewear brand once you've ensured its sustainability. Choose the sports bras, leggings, and tank tops that suit your figure and don't cut into you after some time. So, instead of following any random catalogs, always try out the workout clothes you're about to purchase.

Moisture Wicking Ability

Fitness hours are sweaty if you're doing it right. Your activewear must possess excellent wicking ability to ensure an irritation-free fitness session. Sustainable brands usually use natural materials such as cotton or bamboo, which not only maintain your body temperature but also keep you dry and fresh.

Style and Glamor

What's the use of having so many choices if your gym clothes don't maintain your style statement? With so many options, you don't need to sacrifice your glam for abs. Also, if you like yourself in the gym clothes you've chosen, you're more likely to enjoy your fitness session as well.

Activity Suitability

Remember that there are different types of activewear suitable for various physical activities. For instance, if your fitness regime includes cycling, you should steer clear from loose yoga pants. Similarly, a swimming session is impossible to imagine in flowing tops. Hence make choices based on the activity you are about to perform.

Get an Eye for Innovation

These exercise apparel are resistant to microbes and offer a reliable defense against the dangerous UV rays from the sun as well. Look for innovative sustainable activewear that saves you from sun's UV rays and keeps you germ-free and dry.

Certifications for Sustainable and Ethical Workout Clothes

In the world of workout apparel, the terms of sustainable and fair fashion can be hard to understand. That's why we've simplified some of the best certifications you should know about before choosing one brand over the other!

This third-party certification body confirms the human and ecological safety from harmful chemicals used in textile and leather products. The certificate is issued for 12 months and needs to be renewed periodically.

This internationally recognized standard ensures the 100% organic status of the product. The certification considers the entire production chain from sourcing of raw materials through processing, manufacturing, and delivery.

Fair Trade monitors the social, economic, and environmental aspects of raw material production. It works to promote fair trading conditions, especially for disadvantaged producers. They issue the certificates once they're 100 percent sure the buying, selling, and packaging of the product complies with Fairtrade Standards.

Ecocert evaluates organic farming methods and certifies the presence of best agricultural practices for organic raw materials, such as for cotton production. It also certifies compliance with the best environmentally friendly practices and the social requirements level required by the standard.

WRAP is a social compliance certification that mainly accredits apparel and footwear industries. They issue certificates to the facilities which are free from any forced labor, discrimination, human rights violation, or any unethical practices.

B-Corp measures the entire company's ethical and environmental policies and not just the products. It ensures a business model that protects the workers, community, buyers, and environment.

Healthy living leads to an active lifestyle. In this fast-fashion era, sustainable activewear brands not only give you a lot of design choices but also provide you with peace of mind while wearing them.

All of the brands listed above are dedicated to producing high-value durable products while maintaining fair trade policies, labor laws, and commitment toward social and ecological endeavors.

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15 Best Sustainable Activewear Brands for an Ethical Workout

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A Comprehensive Sustainable Activewear Guide: They say one good habit leads to another... that's how it is for many people who decide to cut unethical and unsustainable products from their lives. Suddenly they're more active, eat healthily, and feel happier about the choices they make.

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By going directly onto the Dior website I was able to find their sustainability plans which I used for my comp shop.

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DIOR SUSTAINABILITY - News and Events - News & Défilés | DIOR

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You do not have any products in your basket DREAM IN GREEN ! The love of nature has always been at the heart of Dior's unconditional passions. Our founder, Christian Dior, constantly celebrated the beauty of gardens and flowers, as well as their fascinating diversity.

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Prada and Gucci Raise Tiger Protection Awareness with Chinese New Year Campaigns

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Prada and Gucci Raise Tiger Protection Awareness with Chinese New Year Campaigns

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This article was used to showcase Gucci news and with the New Year, Gucci had released a collection inspired by the year of the tiger which I felt was interesting to add to my INP as this plays into the role of being an ethical brand working towards being better for the planet.

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Prada, Gucci Raise Tiger Protection Awareness with Chinese New Year Campaigns

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Prada enlists China brand ambassadors to star in the campaign, while Gucci features real tigers for the occasion.

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The Louis Vuitton sustainability journey was used for comp shop. I was able to make sustainability comparisons between my chosen brand and some of it's competitors.

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Prada Sustainability / Culture - Sea Beyond - Sustainability Iniatives

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Prada Sustainability / Culture - Sea Beyond - Sustainability Iniatives

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Prada's sustainability initiative was potentially my favourite to read as I found their sustainability efforts interesting and felt that it would have a positive impact on the planet. This was added to my comp shop.

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The programme underscores the Prada Group's commitment to sustainable choices and the ocean impact on our future and it's supported by a percentage of the proceeds from the sales of the Prada Re-Nylon collection. The three new initiatives mark the expansion of Sea Beyond to reach more age groups and communities around the world.

A new educational module for secondary school students around the world: designed by the Prada Group and IOC-UNESCO, the module will include new nations alongside existing nation participants from the first phase of Sea Beyond. At the end of the learning process, a global contest will be launched to select the best student projects. These will be nominated, once again, by an international jury of "Sea Beyonders", experts who dedicated their lives to the ocean and to education.

Prada Group's 13,000 employees globally will join the Sea Beyond "sustainable challenge": educational resources will be developed by the Group to encourage greater ocean literacy and guidance around how to play an active role in protecting our oceans. Engaging webinars and an app will be used to organize a global "sustainable challenge" specifically for the Group's employees.

The "Kindergarten of the Lagoon": Prada Group and IOC-UNESCO will join forces to buildthe Kingergaten of the Lagoon, "Asilo della Laguna", in Venice. Expected to start in 2022 for around 20 children initially, the structure will be developed in line with principles of outdoor education.

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The programme underscores the Prada Group's commitment to sustainable choices and the ocean impact on our future and it's supported by a percentage of the proceeds from the sales of the Prada Re-Nylon collection. The three new initiatives mark the expansion of Sea Beyond to reach more age groups and communities around the world.

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My range included footwear which I wanted to be made from Bamboo fibres to show consistency throughout the range. To check if this was something that was available and possible, I found a brand which used natural fibres across their footwear.

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Veganism is no longer a rare and challenging lifestyle to follow. Thanks to Veganuary, people all over the globe now realize the vast benefits of becoming vegan.

There are endless ways to adopt this lifestyle. You can switch the meat in your burger or the milk in your latte. When it comes to food, we have a plethora of plant-based options available to us.

But what about clothes?

You may have heard of faux fur, but have you heard of faux leather? How about bamboo lining?

Faux leather is what we now call vegan leather. It's a fake material that looks and feels the same as the real stuff but without harming any animals in the process.

Bamboo lining is an alternative to cotton that feels just as comfortable while also being more sustainable.

Keep reading to learn more about these unique vegan materials.

What Is Vegan Leather?

This is where it gets interesting. Vegan leather is super versatile and made out of some unusual yet innovative sources.

Imagine wearing a jacket made out of pineapple or mushroom. Yes, that's right. There are people out there rocking 'leather' jackets made of fruit and veg.

Cork and recycled plastic are other materials also used to create vegan clothing.

When it comes to shoes, it's better to have a pair made from a blend of durable recycled plastic and cork, including a natural bamboo lining.

LØCI always takes a sustainable approach. We use recycled plastic that's been floating around the Mediterannean ocean and repurpose it into a distinct and unique material that's both stylish and durable.

What Is Bamboo Lining for Sneakers?

If you haven't heard of bamboo lining for your shoes, then you're in for a treat. Not only is bamboo environmentally friendly, but it's super comfy, too.

We all know cotton is the most common material used for lining shoes, and maybe you assume it's sustainable.

Although cotton fibers are natural, the conventional cotton industry has a ginormous carbon footprint.

This is where bamboo comes in. This carbon-neutral material is harvested in the most environmentally friendly manner. It's way more sustainable than cotton and could be the future of the fashion industry.

The bamboo plant is abundant, grows super quickly, and doesn't emit greenhouse gases when produced. The harvesting process and fabric manufacturing process can dramatically reduce damage to animals and the environment.

As well as being conscious about animal welfare and the environment, you also want your shoes to look great and feel comfortable. This versatile material is both breathable in summer while keeping your feet warm and insulated during winter.

Benefits of Bamboo Lining in Footwear

There are many benefits to using bamboo fibers in footwear. The most important is bamboo's antibacterial properties, without the use of harmful toxins. You'll keep your feet fresh and odor-free the natural way.

You'll never have to worry about sweaty feet when wearing sneakers lined with bamboo. This natural fabric is significantly absorbent, keeping your feet dry and fresh all day.

Bamboo fabric is softer than regular cotton. When you wear sneakers lined in this lush material, your feet will experience superior comfort like never before.

Never again experience sore skin from wearing shoes made from synthetic materials. Bamboo fibers are gentle, don't irritate the skin, and are a natural solution for sensitive skin.

LØCI uses only the most premium bamboo in its sneakers. We give you a luxurious yet sustainable experience when it comes to fashion. Vegan, eco-friendly materials and manufacturing are our number one priority.

Cork Insoles for Sneakers

Cork is both solid and light, making it the perfect component for the materials in your sneakers.

For ultra comfort and support, cork is the best material to use for insoles. This natural material provides just as much shock absorption as a synthetic insole, which is excellent for walking and running without pain.

So, what is cork? This 100% natural and organic material is extracted from the cork oak tree. The bark is removed without harming the tree, which simply grows a new layer and restores itself to the original thickness. Cork production is highly eco-friendly!

Why Cork Insoles Are the Best for Shoes

This unique material is popular for its breathable properties. Rigid yet resistant, this natural plant tissue retains pockets of natural gas, giving it that subtle bounce.

This signature bounce is what makes cork an excellent material for shoes. Flexibility is essential when it comes to wearing sneakers for maximum longevity and comfort.

Cork also boasts a natural 'memory foam' that has a fantastic property called elastic return, which means no matter how much it's compressed, it'll always return to its natural shape.

Cork leather has other notable characteristics. Although it comes from a tree, this material isn't wood, which means there aren't any odors or bacterial growth.

In fact, this natural fabric is ultra-hygienic without having to use any nasty chemicals to make it that way. Nature's way is the best way!

Cork is also waterproof and impermeable to any water damage, making it the best alternative to animal leather. This is due to naturally occurring fatty substances in the cork membrane, which gives superb protection and durability.

For all-year-round comfort, choose cork insoles. Natural low thermal conductivity keeps your feet at a comfortable base temperature at all times.

Cork's Orthopedic Properties

The use of cork in shoes gives them a natural orthopedic quality, which is the perfect eco-friendly solution for people who suffer from foot problems.

With its natural elasticity, cork offers support to your ankles, shins, and knees, promoting overall health and well-being.

There are many advantages to wearing sneakers with a cork footbed, both for fashion and our environment. Thehard-wearing fashion industry is beginning to notice this renewable and incredibly durable material - but there's still a long way to go.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Vegan Leather Made From Recycled Plastic?

Traditional vegan leather made from plastic is the usual go-to for conscious fashion-goers who are prioritizing animal welfare. This doesn't mean it's eco-friendly.

The plastic from these vegan leather materials is manufactured using harsh chemicals and usually ends up in landfills due to mass production and overflowing inventory.

You're probably wondering how recycled plastic is transformed into lux material. The process begins by clearing up oceans and coastlines saturated with PET plastic bottles. Once the plastic is gathered, it is heated and reduced to small pellets, which can then be spun into long strands of yarn.

Plastic can be recycled to create vegan leather sneakers, but there are a plethora of other sustainably used materials in the production of clothing.

"One man's trash is another man's treasure" rings true when committing to a conscious and non-polluting lifestyle. Reusing and repurposing materials that usually go to waste is both innovative and necessary.

For instance, recycled corn is used as vegan and sustainable suede, and cardboard can be recycled into durable material for many purposes. Rubber is another culprit in polluting our land and oceans and can easily be recycled into footwear.

Is Vegan Leather Durable?

This is usually the first question someone would ask when buying an item made from vegan leather.

Genuine leather is known for its solid and long-lasting properties. That's why it's the material we choose for our hard wearing shoes.

But, if you care about the environment, you should prioritize sustainable materials more.

And that's not to say vegan leather is inferior. Absolutely not!

Not all are created equally. Most fast fashion vegan leather is of poor quality. But premium vegan leather is made of the best natural ingredients and is almost as sturdy as genuine leather.

If you decide to purchase vegan leather shoes, you're making a conscious effort to save our planet.

You prioritize the well-being of innocent animals whose natural habitats are damaged due to toxic materials and fashion waste.

Choose items made from sustainable and durable materials like lightweight cork, soft bamboo, and eco-friendly recycled ocean plastic.

If you want shoes that'll last for years to come, choose a high-quality, environmentally friendly option.

Is Vegan Leather Waterproof?

Just like fake leather, or pleather, vegan leather is also highly water-resistant.

Vegan clothing and shoes made from 100% recycled plastic, in particular, give you maximum protection from the elements.

Does this also apply to natural vegan material? Whether your vegan leather is made from plants or leftover veggies, there are many ways to coat these fibers with safe, organic wax-like substances to keep you protected.

The fashion industry is a massive fan of pleather due to its durable and waterproof factor. This type of faux leather benefits fast-fashion brands who design clothing quickly to adapt to fast fashion trends.

Demands for vegan leather garments are at an all-time high. Who doesn't want to contribute to the well-being of our planet and look great doing it? Let's make sure we choose the most sustainable vegan leather material to boost veganism's mission.

Does Vegan Leather Stretch?

Stretchable leather is essential, especially when it comes to shoes and sneakers.

You might be wondering, can you also stretch vegan leather?

Yes, of course! But only if the product is designed and manufactured well.

Most vegan leather clothes, including shoes, are incredibly comfortable. Especially if they're made from soft, breathable fibers from natural sources.

Vegan leather clothing is fast becoming the number one item to have in your closet. Whether you adore fashion trends or prefer to express your individuality, go vegan for a comfortable style that protects our earth's future.

Is Vegan Leather Toxic?

Genuine leather can be harmful due to the residual chemicals left on the material after the tanning process. Due to industrial textile development and mass production of leather goods, buying leather contributes to water pollution, climate change, and deforestation.

But what about vegan leather? Some faux leather blends are created using plastic that's unsustainable and non-biodegradable. Yet, there are many vegan clothing products, including vegan leather sneakers, that are non-toxic.

Luxurious buttery soft vegan leather is usually manufactured from natural sources like plants. Leather that isn't from animals is the future, and our little planet relies on it.

Here at LØCI, we use a blend of recycled plastic mixed with natural materials from premium bamboo and cork. Our mission is to save our sea life, and we start by removing plastic waste from the ocean to protect vulnerable marine species.

Choose conscious fashion not only to look stylish but also to save our planet from pollution.

Is Vegan Leather Eco-Friendly?

True vegan leather is eco-friendly. But you need to do your homework to ensure what you're buying is really sustainable.

Just because a brand dubs itself as 'environmentally friendly' doesn't mean it is.

Many fast-fashion companies boast about using vegan leather and think they're automatically sustainable.

Although vegan leather and fashion are merging, some brands continue to use harmful materials in their clothes and shoes.

You may think you're buying a vegan leather jacket made from PU material, yet find out it's Bicast, which is a blend of genuine animal leather and vegan leather.

Even if it is vegan, PU is terrible for the environment. We have an abundance of natural and sustainable materials at our fingertips. PVC leather and PU leather shouldn't be the only option for vegan materials.

An honest look into polyurethane PU vegan leather shows it hurts the environment. Some people think wearing leather not made from animals is enough.

The industry is embracing cruelty-free fashion but neglecting eco-friendly fashion.

Many eco-friendly vegan fashion brands make high-quality, truly sustainable vegan leather shoes, vegan leather purses, and even vegan leather trousers fit for Vogue.

It's our responsibility to seek out fashion from brands that have a personal mission to clean our planet and protect animal life. These brands should be totally transparent about their mission.

What Are the Effect of Plastic in Our Ocean

Plastic is killing our wildlife. With over 8 million pieces of plastic being dumped into the ocean every day, this is especially true for marine life.

Sea animals are mistaking plastic as food, leading to choking and poisoning. With the opportunity to transform current plastic waste into vegan leather, we can clear up the ocean and prevent further pollution.

LØCI understands that our ocean is the largest ecosystem on earth.

The ocean absorbs 90% of the earth's heat, and sea life keeps our oceans alive. With global temperatures rising due to climate change, this is arguably the most crucial entity in combating the damage a hotter climate can cause.

Not only this, but the ocean provides a substantial amount of protein for our population. It's essential to make sure this food source is thriving and not infused with toxic materials.

As a sustainably-minded vegan brand, we're taking action to conserve our oceans and marine life.

Our mission is to remove one million plastic bottles from the sea in one year. It's a huge feat but it's one we're excited to pursue.

For one pair of sneakers, we use five plastic bottles that have been removed from the ocean and skillfully crafted into sustainable footwear.

Is Synthetic Vegan Leather 100% Cruelty-Free?

No animals may have been killed and skinned for you to don vegan sneakers, but the plastic and toxic chemicals used in the manufacturing process harm their environment.

It's crucial to choose vegan shoes and clothing made from 100% recycled plastic. Ideally, the plastic that's polluting the ocean and killing marine life.

This affects us, too! The toxins from ocean plastic end up on our plates through the fish we're eating. It makes sense to have vegan leather in our closets made from recycled plastic to look great and stay healthy.

As well as 100% recycled plastic, there's an abundance of natural ways to produce vegan leather.

Mushroom leather. This super versatile fungi vegetable is not only delicious and healthy but also amazingly wearable. This sustainable material has been used by conscious brands, including Stella McCartney and Hermes. It's made by drying out oyster mushrooms and blending the fibers with other natural materials, such as hemp, and is fully compostable. It's a fantastic eco-friendly alternative to PU and PVC leather.

Pineapple leather, AKA Pinatex, was discovered by Dr. Carmen Hijosa, who wanted to create a carbon-neutral leather material. He found the answer in this tropical fruit. Using leaves from the pineapple blended with polylactic acid fibers (PLA) produces a top rival for animal leather without any added cruelty.

Cactus leather. This vegan leather is exceptionally durable. It's generally used as an animal-friendly leather alternative for furniture and car interiors. So just think about what it can do for your shoes.

Corn leather. There's so much waste in the corn industry, so some footwear brands decided to commit to environmental sustainability and fashion shoes out of vegan corn leather. Corn leather is a waxed base canvas coated in resin and can be highly reliable as a leather alternative.

You may be wondering what the best vegan leather is. You can figure this out based on its effect on the environment. The best vegan leather is one that has a blend of natural fibers, together with durable recycled materials.

PU and PVC leather are still in use and will probably blend with natural vegan leather for a while. However, the world is closer to using 100% sustainable, eco-friendly vegan leather than before.

Is Packaging Important for Sustainability

It's also vital to keep packaging in mind when a brand commits to a sustainable philosophy.

LØCI uses smart packaging to protect your sneakers and minimize waste.

You can't ignore the use of non-biodegradable and non-recyclable packaging materials to be a cruelty-free and eco-friendly brand.

Package waste is a massive contribution to our oceans and landfills. Brands need to ensure they're using innovative packaging for future deliveries to limit and reduce pollution.

Why Does LØCI Loves Recycling?

Here at LØCI, recycling is our main focus. Giving plastic a second life allows us to repurpose it into beautiful sneakers to fit every style and make a profound difference to ocean life.

You'd never know our sneakers were made from recycled plastic if we didn't announce it. Our stylish footwear mimics traditional leather in both look and wearability.

We're loud and proud when it comes to our recycled plastic vegan leather, and why not? It's highly fashionable yet climate-friendly.

Can sneakers made from recycled plastic save our planet?

Absolutely! Some big footwear companies like Adidas and Veja are already incorporating recycled plastic into their sneakers. We hope to see more brands and businesses join us in putting purpose over profits to give our planet the best chance of a brighter future.

Vegan Leather and the Fashion Industry

Vegan clothing is gaining momentum in the fashion industry. From the not so eco-friendly fast-fashion to high-end couture, designers worldwide are finally waking up to cruelty-free style.

Back in the '90s, some people would wear 'pleather' shoes as a cheaper alternative to genuine leather. Pleather is made from synthetic materials, mainly plastic, which are bad for the environment.

More people are taking up the vegan lifestyle, yet some only stick to eating a plant-based diet. Others may also continue to use makeup and skincare products that have been tested on animals. However, true veganism is eliminating all products that have exploited animals through their production process. Not just in what you eat, but across your whole lifestyle.

The vegan philosophy also includes clothing. Whether it's jackets, bags, or shoes, there are animal-friendly items available.

Fast-Fashion Sneakers vs. Made-to-Order

Producing just one pair of sneakers generates a large amount of CO2 emissions. From materials used to the manufacturing process, the typical way of making sneakers is no longer sustainable for our planet.

Switching materials to something more sustainable such as recycled plastic, cork, and bamboo, can dramatically shrink your carbon footprint.

Giant sports corporations and fast fashion companies play a considerable role in the destruction of our environment.

Their manufacturing methods and non-stop transportation all contribute to climate change.

LØCI produces high-quality sneakers that are handmade in Portugal. Made-to-order production is the way forward for brands to contribute towards healing and restoring our planet.

Our sneakers will never end up in landfills like most wasteful mass-produced sneakers. We waste virtually nothing. This dedication to both craftsmanship and our environment is what drives our business.

Is Veganism an Industry Trend?

You may think that fashion brands are capitalizing on veganism by offering vegan leather. Some might yell "greenwashing!" when top brands and businesses use the Veganuary challenge as a strategy to boost profits. After all, veganism is considered a trend by their marketing departments.

We need to remember that the fashion industry is a business. If they're going where the money is, and that's veganism, then the world is moving in the right direction!

Vegan leather could save the environment. The global fashion industry negatively impacts the environment, so it must be fixed sooner rather than later.

The energy used to make and transport fashion goods generates huge amounts of greenhouse gas.

A whopping 1.5 trillion liters of water is used every year. Approximately 23kg of greenhouse gases are released for each kilo of fabric produced, and 23% of all chemicals produced worldwide are used for the textile industry.

And, there's more! If we're not careful, degraded soil caused by non-biodegradable fashion products will decrease food supply by 30% in the next decade. Massive carbon emissions from this industry alone are helping to accelerate climate change.

So is disaster pending? Not if the fashion industry majorly reduces its carbon footprint and goes vegan!

If we all buy high-quality vegan leather boots this winter, it could be a huge step forward. Let's make anti-leather the next anti-fur!

In the past few years, luxury fashion brands declared they were going fur-free. Designers like Gucci, Burberry, Victoria Beckham, and the like pledged to turn their backs on the barbaric fur trade.

This anti-fur campaign was a giant step forward for animal welfare, yet there's still more to be done. Leather is next on the list of things to change, and we're not just talking about animal leather.

There are fashion labels that call themselves vegan yet don't use sustainable materials. We can make natural recycled vegan leather our favorite fashion commodity. Then, the fashion industry is sure to follow.

How to Choose Sustainable Vegan Leather
Not all vegan leather is equally sustainable.
Brands are putting a focus on being cruelty-free and ending the exploitation of innocent animals. But are all fashion brands using vegan leather doing enough?

Prioritizing animal welfare is amazing. But, a lot of brands need to level up for sustainability and eco-friendliness, too.

Many pleather garments contain plastic which takes years to biodegrade. Micro-plastic pollution is a massive threat to the health of our planet and sadly destroys the environment of the animals we intend to save.

Synthetic fibers from clothing, including polyurethane vegan leather, are the most significant source of micro-plastic pollution in our ocean. This type of clothing poses a threat before, during, and after its lifespan. It doesn't biodegrade and usually ends up in a landfill.

Traditional PU vegan leather could be heading for the same controversial reputation as genuine leather. With animal welfare and the environment at stake, access to more sustainable vegan leather is now rising.

For vegan leather to be truly sustainable, it must be both animal and environmentally friendly.

As consumers, many of us are taking the responsibility to reduce our carbon footprint. We do this by following a plant-based diet, using animal-friendly skincare products, and purchasing 100% vegan clothing.

The problem is that 100% vegan clothing isn't easy to find. Most vegan brands are only producing plastic-based materials.

People are unaware of the materials used or the manufacturing process. The main culprits are fast fashion, but even high-end brands sell this kind of vegan leather.

There are some designers out there, though, who choose to use recycled plastic in their garments. This uses up the current overload of plastic instead of adding more pollution to the planet.

By doing a little extra homework and opting for brands like this, you do your bit for the planet and the animals.

Vegan Leather Shoes

Looking for new shoes can be both exciting and confusing. You probably know your style and budget, but do you know what materials are used and where they come from?

This won't be confusing if you buy from a brand that's transparent about its resources and manufacturing.

Responsible vegan brands are getting easier to come by. LØCI is committed to making buying sustainable sneakers super easy.

Comfort is usually top of the list when you're on the hunt for the perfect shoes. People are quick to dismiss vegan leather as inflexible and weak, which is simply untrue.

Vegan leather can be one of the most hard-wearing materials on the market. Their versatile blend gives a soft stretch that matches genuine leather.

The result? Comfortable and protected feet without toxic materials.

The Future of Vegan Leather

The vegan leather industry is expected to be worth $90 billion by 2025. According to animal rights organization PETA, many brands are also aiming for zero animal by-products in manufacturing clothing and accessories.

The world is heading in a positive direction. As a civilization, we're more aware than ever of the cruelty and exploitation of innocent animals for the sake of food, beauty, and fashion. Sustainability is on the rise, too. Many consumers are looking out for natural, organic products that produce as little waste as possible.

The ultimate goal is to reuse, recycle, and consciously consume eco-friendly products and items.

To make a change, we must all take individual responsibility and accountability.

Earth is our only home and our actions today impact our future. Let's make the future generation proud by choosing vegan. Not just for what we eat, but also for what we wear.

Choose vegan leather and bamboo lining for your shoes. Not all vegan materials are created equally. Vegan leather that's just imitation leather pollutes our planet. Cotton sneaker lining comes with a huge carbon footprint.

Choose vegan leather and bamboo lining for sneakers that are robust, long-lasting, comfortable, and most importantly, good for the planet.

You can help animals exist and assist the planet in its recovery, too. It all starts with your sneakers.

Written by Emmanuel Eribo

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What Is Vegan Leather & Bamboo Lining? Best Choice for Shoes

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Veganism is no longer a rare and challenging lifestyle to follow. Thanks to Veganuary, people all over the globe now realize the vast benefits of becoming vegan. There are endless ways to adopt this lifestyle. You can switch the meat in your burger or the milk in your latte.

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Athleisure wear: A trend movement in the fashion and sportswear industries

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Athleisure wear: A trend movement in the fashion and sportswear industries

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As my range was athleisure focused, this article speaks further into the athleisure trend which I wanted to speak about throughout the my INP for justification of my concept.

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What explains athleisure wear’s success in the fashion industry?

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Fashion’s athleisure wear trend has been greatly impacted by body-positive movement, technological innovation, and much more.

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Designing and Product Development of Sportswear using Bamboo Knits

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Designing and Product Development of Sportswear using Bamboo Knits

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When doing research about Bamboo fibres I was able to find information explaining the different type of bamboo fibres and what each of these are best used for, and which ones are more environmentally friendly. This article helped me with deciding what type of Bamboo fibre to use across my range.

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The fashion world is constantly seeking new, natural, eco-friendly textile materials. India, after China, is the second richest country in bamboo genetic resources – a novel textile material. The study attempted to utilize bamboo knits in sportswear. 27 designs were sketched (unisex, women and men-9 each) based on a theme 'Splash' and the color forecast Spring – Summer 2010.

The bamboo (rayon) fabric was tested for fiber and fabric properties assessing that the sourced fabric was within the minimum expected performance standards. The survey results short-listed the preferred designs by sports persons, retailers and designers. Finally, six designs for unisex, women's and men's designs were produced.

Acceptability and suitability by retailers and sportspersons through another survey was gathered. Use of bamboo knits for sportswear was well accepted showing a high potential for bamboo knitwear in the market. Incorporation of wider colour range and surface embellishments will enhance the appearance of sportswear adding more variety.
Key words
Designing, Product Development, Bamboo, Knits, Sportswear

Infusion of new creative ideas is the result of technology that is multiplying globally, with diversification of products and processes leading to global competition. This phenomenon is being viewed as a mammoth challenge towards sustainability (capacity to endure tough and diverse conditions). Biodiversity and 'techno-diversity' calls for man to explore potentials of available resources. It is imperative to maintain a state of well - being (with regards to health, aesthetics and functionality). There is increased awareness on issues of environmental concerns, organic natural products and eco-friendly processes, effective optimization of resources, etc.

Globally, textile and apparel industry is experiencing paradigm shifts with fashion being the most volatile aspect yet subject to forecasting and cyclic nature. The macro - environment and micro - environment act as determinants and as effects with the dynamism in fashion business (Easey, 2002).

Textile materials have been used in every sport from exercising to camping to football. Sporting activities and liberation of women justified the emergence of knits into the fashionable arena (Adanur, 1995). With changing lifestyles, increased health consciousness and resultant indulgence in leisure and sports activities brought sportswear into limelight in the last few decades affecting clothing purchases in specific and the apparel industry as a whole (Tate, 2004).

Bamboo, as a raw material has a variety of commercial uses, food, construction, decoration, and clothing. Natural anti - bacterial properties, odour resistance, moisture absorptivity, breathability, softness, smoothness, natural UV- protectant/resistance, reduced static electricity build up, eco–friendliness are the unique characteristics of bamboo. Hence these fabrics show promises as a productive textile resource (Xiao, 2009).

Versatility of knit structures characterised by superior strength, softness, water absorbency and textural fluidity of bamboo fabrics have the potential of being used in conjunction, with sportswear technology. Recently, sportswear has an additional sustainable resource of bamboo knits.
1.1 Innovations in Textiles
Significant innovations in textile materials used for sportswear from conventional fibres to high-performance fabrics have occurred. Polyester is predominantly used for sportswear along with other fibres like polyamide, polypropylene, acrylics and elastanes. Wool and cotton fibres find applications in leisurewear (Shishoo, 2005).

The advantage of using manmade fibres is that they can be engineered to suit a variety of end use. Fibre properties and characteristics of fabrics can be attenuated by controlling the process parameters. Fabrics for sportswear are specially constructed considering the geometry, packing density and structure of constituent fibres in yarns and in fabrics which refer to the kinetic mechanisms in fabrics (Shishoo, 2005).

With advancements in chemical, mechanical technology and electronics textile finishing has become indispensable to improve the look, handle, feel and performance (e.g. waterproof, antimicrobial, anti-pilling, UV resistance, thermal insulation, flame proofing) of textiles. Improved fibre spinning techniques, microfibers, nanotechnology, coating and lamination incorporation of phase change materials, bio-mimicry, etc. impart unique performance characteristics with enhanced mechanical, physical, chemical and biological functions required for sportswear. Innovative garment manufacturing technology has resulted in specific designing and product development of novel sophisticated sportswear and footwear for different user categories of performance sports and outdoor leisure activities (Shishoo, 2005).
2.Bamboo fibre
Bamboo is a sustainable resource hence it must be put to substantial use. There are nearly 1500 different species of Bamboo but few are used for textiles. There are two methods of manufacturing bamboo fibres: chemical extraction and mechanical. In chemical processing regeneration of cellulose is essential on similar lines of regenerating conventional viscose rayon. It involves treating cellulose matter with caustic soda yielding alkali cellulose, followed by xanthation with carbon disulphide and then neutralising xanthate with alkali to regenerate cellulose with controlled degree of polymerisation. This is followed by wet-spinning in an acid coagulating bath (Waite 2010).

Figure 1 Flowchart of Manufacturing of regenerated fibres

Source: https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/08/19/348/

According to US Federal trade Commission (FTC), rayon is a manmade fibre created from cellulose found in plants and processed with harsh chemicals. Bamboo falls in the class of regenerated fibres. Council of Fashion Designers of America agrees that bamboo fibre is less than green. The conversion into filaments and then into yarns and fabrics is similar to that of conventional rayon and is primarily chemical intensive (https://www.treehugger.com)

DyStar Ecology Solutions (2009) dealt with individual fibres describing requirements and restrictions on labelling of bamboo as natural bamboo fabric. Bamboo nevertheless is known for its softness, strong absorbency, anti - microbial properties, comfort, coolness and freshness and is said to be an eco-friendly fibre. Bamboo can be dyed with all dyes recommended for cellulosic fibres. But for the production of a sustainable fibre, the selection of pre-treatments, dyeing and finishing should also be implicitly sustainable and environment friendly.

CTITI (China Textile Industry Testing Institute) and Technical Center of BAMBROTEX constituted standard Bamboo Fibre Identification Rule (BFIR). Cross-section of bamboo fibre is filled with more micro-holes and micro-gaps than common viscose fibre. The notable microstructure renders bamboo unusual breathability and coolness function. This microstructure leads to greater solubility of bamboo in sulphuric acid than common viscose fibre (https://www.swicofil.com/bambrotexbambooidentification.pdf).

Figure 2 Microscopic structures of fibres C.S. and L.S. of bamboo and viscose rayon

(Source: https://www.swicofil.com (bamboo) https://www.policensw.com (viscose)

Zhou et.al registered the process of bamboo yarns (US Patent No. 7313906 B2) in January 2008. The detailed manufacturing parameters and description of bamboo fibre properties is tested and provided.

The chemical composition of bamboo is similar to other bast fibres: constituting majority cellulose and lignin. It has small molecular mass and low degree of polymerization. Cross section of single bamboo fibre is nearly round with small lumen. It is predicted that it has high breaking strength, but low elongation and has good water absorption properties. The structural characteristics of bamboo fibre are different from other plant fibres.

Globally, bamboo textiles are in initial phase and it is conceivable that their market will expand and evolve at a rapid pace. In 2003, Nomura Sangyo in Japan in alliance with Toray and Kurabo patented invention of bamboo fibre manufacturing process. It covers cellulosic fibres derived from bamboo. Bamboo spun yarns with fibre size of 0.5-20 denier made from cellulosic fibres with 400-1,500 twists per meter were used to make woven and knitted fabrics (https://www.greenearthbamboo.com/Eco-Fabric-Trends-Organic-Fashion-s/228.htm)

The earliest patents in bamboo history are for the improvement in preparing fibre from the bamboo US patent nos. 41, 627, 87295 in the years 1864 and 1881 covering the process for disintegrating the fibre of bamboo to be used in manufacturing cordage, cloth, mats, or pulp for paper and mixing wool and bamboo for spinning into yarns. There are a few others dealing with bamboo fibre (https://www.greenearthbamboo.com/Eco-Fabric-Trends-Organic-Fashion-s/228.htm)

Bamboo clothes have strong affinity to dye-stuffs are dye-able in vibrant colours. Its thermal-regulating characteristics to keep the body cool in summer and vice-versa. Bamboo clothes are moisture absorbent having unique wicking ability that prevents clinging under perspiration. Bamboo fibre can be an answer to skin cancer due to its property of natural UV protection (SPF 30+) (hotfrog.com, 2008).

In 2004, Phyllostachys pubescens, Mosobamboo a woody grass was planted in China which grows organically makes a good fabric. Bamboo has anti-bacterial properties and provides around 98 percent UV protection. It is highly breathable in hot weather at the same time provides warmth in the cold. Bamboo is crushed, pulped and then its natural cellulose, which contains the bamboo 'kun', is extracted to make fibre. It is felt that it is a sustainable addition to the class of natural fibres (Rodman, 2002).

Comparative study of bamboo and cotton knitted fabrics by testing and analysing materials for functional and aesthetic properties showed that bamboo fabrics had moisture regain of almost twice more than cotton, elongation 2 - 3 times more than cotton, resistant towards abrasion and 40 - 50% more than cotton whereas has low bursting strength compared to cotton and a wet strength of only 60% of its dry strength. It indicated that bamboo fabric is more suitable for applications next to skin garments, summer wear, sportswear, home and medical textiles Sheshachala, et al (2008). A study examined the properties of bamboo namely moisture wicking, wear and tear and surface morphology. Bamboo is reported to be a sustainable resource (Waite 2009).

The press release by the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) charges companies with Bamboo-zling' forewarns consumers with false product claims. Companies were charged with deceptive labeling and advertising products as made from bamboo fibre, when they are made of rayon. False and unsubstantiated 'green' eco - friendly, biodegradability claims of products was debated. In March 2009, the Competition Bureau of the Canadian Government issued an announcement regarding accurate labeling of textile articles as 'derived from bamboo' (Hardin (2009).
3.Sportswear
Indian sportswear industry currently stands at Rs. 355 billion with CAGR of 45 % for the year 2010-2012, according to the findings of a report titled 'Sportswear market in India' released by RNCOS a market research company. It attributes growth rate to rapid economic growth, huge population base, rising income levels, changing lifestyle and consumer preferences. The study used segmentations of sports footwear and sports apparel, rural/urban divide and gender-wise demand projections. India is an attractive destination for domestic and international sportswear industries (www.sportzpower.com and www.marketpublishers.com).

Expectations of ideal sportswear are comfort properties, good tactile properties, thermal insulation and regulation, breathability, good stretch and dimensional stability, quick liquid absorption, effective moisture management, aesthetic attractiveness, barrier characteristics against external elements, protection from injury. Some of the most famous global brand names, known for their functional designs, performance, quality include Nike, Adidas, Puma, Reebok, Russell Corporation, Umbro, Berghaus, Scanda, Arena, Paramo, Salomon, Rukkla, Sprayway, Helly Hansen and Oscar Jacobsson. There is a strong trend towards combining multi-functional and fashion design for niche markets.

Significant increase in consumption of textile fibres and fabrics for sportswear and sporting related goods was reported in the analysis made by David Rigby Associates in 2002. The report reflects significant rise in population interests worldwide in active indoor and outdoor sports and in leisure pursuits. The social factors that cause this change include increased leisure time, increased considerations of well - being and good health, accessibility of indoor and outdoor sports facilities. Textile materials in various forms are being used in a wide range of applications in sportswear and sporting equipment e.g. aerobic clothing, athletic, football, cricket clothing, games shorts, gloves, jackets, pants, shirts, socks, sweatshirts, swimwear and tennis clothing. Sportswear also covers sporting equipment and footwear.

Consumer's need for sportswear is on the rise with leisure, sports, health and fitness management becoming important pursuits. Sports activity and participation have been studied by various research bodies (government and academic). It has been observed that the extent of participation in sports and leisure activities is varied across nations and across different categories of sports. Online sites like the Office of National Statistics UK, Euro stats, NSGA provide useful research data regarding participation of people in different sports activity. The data showed an increase in years 2006-2008 in level of participation in sports and leisure activities(https://www.nsga.org)

There is huge market potential in China. Some supporting facts are giant brand Nike has more than 1,200 stores in China; Adidas was the official partner for 2008 Olympics held in Beijing. There are many sports people with renowned accomplishments from China e.g. Li Ning who won six medals at the Los Angeles Olympic Games in 1984 is also the chairman of a sporting goods firm selling footwear and sportswear with annual sales of US$250 million and more. The company is further expanding by opening more retail outlets (Buirski 2004). China is also foremost in bamboo fibre and fabric manufacture industry. Thus bamboo knits for sportswear is an obvious spotlight area for development in China having potential growth.

Gender plays an important role the development of sports clothing. The strong rise in female participation in sports has been an important factor responsible for development trends in sportswear. It was reported in Textile Outlook International (March/April 2003) that in 2000 'US$36.4bn was spent on sport apparel in the USA. Of this as much as US$21.8 billion or around 60% was attributed to purchases by women'.

Menswear takes the shape of sportswear. In fashion history many designs started as sportswear turning into classics of menswear designs e.g. hunting jacket was modelled for a sports jacket, Norfolk jacket created for Edward VII became casual clothing in 1930's, the safari hunting jacket in Africa became craze of fashion by Yves Saint Laurent. Many companies including Burberry, Lilywhite's Aquascutum and Jaeger originated as sportswear specialists became major suppliers of menswear to the British middle-class market (Waddell 2005).
4.Designing of sportswear with knits
Sportswear has to be designed and produced using designers skills and knowledge in graphics, textiles and fashion. It involves translating ideas into aesthetically pleasing, ergonomically viable and production feasible products.

Modern sportswear designs incorporate elaborate patchwork and asymmetrical styling. Asymmetrical styling by shifting closures to the sides makes way for patterns with layering. It provides ease of movement and has strong fashion appeal the so-called 'trendy'. Beautiful microfiber bright coloured knits with contrasting trims and off-centre patterns define the styles of recent times. Introduction of high performance and value finished fabrics with specialised finish treatments further expand the pleasures of using functional inner/outer or under/over wear sportswear (first skin and second skin sportswear).

There is noticeable rise in all-in one suit for different categories of sportswear that was originally limited to swimwear and hyped during the 1996 Atlanta Olympics. Nike's introduced speed skating suits for Salt Lake City Winter Olympics in 2002 Speedo suits. The suits were elaborately constructed with multiple panels. At the same time separates and coordinates in styles are also popular. Novelty in patchwork and layering provides protection and renders enhanced comfort properties with good elasticity compression and warmth protection from sun and aerodynamics. This leads to the development of high - tech suits including the use of high performance knits and fibre innovation (Buirski 2009).

Seamless knitwear extensively used in intimate apparel has tremendous scope for research. Knitwear shows progression in this technology. Seamless knitting since its introduction in 1990 was readily adopted by the industry as it is more expensive than the conventional flat or circular knitting. Apparently, there is also a low market appeal for `seamless shapeless' undergarments that discourages any R&D efforts in this field (Bramel 2009).

There is a proliferation of global sportswear and casual wear brands. The future for expensive and finely sculpted dresses looks increasingly bleak. Simplicity in design and patterning is the appreciated trend (Jackson and Shaw 2006).

Knitwear was primarily used as practical clothing for warmth, protection and ease of movement. Emancipation of women and their growing interest in sports and rebellious fashion trends brought knitwear into the fashion arena. Coco Chanel took the lead in bringing knitwear of intimate apparel to sportswear and outerwear. Italian knitwear is known for their strengths of quality and craftsmanship (Black 2002).

Knitwear emerged from the realm of sportswear to dominate high fashion. The fashion industry known for its concern in creating style and setting new trends has incorporated ways to be more eco - friendly too. Consumer's interest in organic goods has made a take-offKothari and Sanyal (2003).

Knit fabrics are treated with a range of finishes of softening, acid and enzymes washes. Finishing treatments impart desired effects that can change feel and textural appearance of knitted goods (Gokarneshan, et al, 2010).

Designers create identity by performing creative and analytical processes in establishing fashion direction line concept new designs and styles. They are concerned about aesthetics and functionality of their designs. Creative decisions are directed towards balancing fashion components namely colour, texture, silhouette and structural design details in accordance to the principles of design (Burns, 2002).

Product development has overlapping phases of creative design, line adoption and technical design. It involves formulating and implementing design and product specifications which necessitates quality assessment and testing at different stages of designing and developing products (Tarafdar, 2010).
5. The present research study and its purpose
The broad aim of the study was to design and develop sportswear using bamboo (rayon) knits

The specific objectives fulfilled were to:

Design sportswear (unisex, women and men) incorporating different styles of collars, pockets, fasteners and other details.

Develop sportswear using most preferred features and patterns for unisex women's and men's garments.

Ascertain acceptance of bamboo knits as novel raw material source for sportswear.

5.1.Methodology
Sourced bamboo (rayon) fabrics were tested for fibre and fabric properties. Six designs (for unisex, women's and men's) were shortlisted by sports-persons, retailers and designers. Acceptability and suitability by retailers and sportspersons through Survey 2 was gathered.

Figure 3 Colour forecast for Spring Summer 2010 (https://www.docstoc.com/docs/43983867/

FASHION–FORECAST–SPRINGSUMMER–2010) Logo designing and Theme board 'Splash'

Figure 4 Outline For Methodology

6.2 Results and Discussion 6.2.1 Qualitative Analysis Visual inspection

Table 1 Visual features of bamboo fabric samples

Fabric samples 1 and 2 showed same behavior towards flame burning tests catching fire easily, producing light coloured ash with burning paper odour. The observations indicated that both fabric samples were composed of cellulosic fibres.

The longitudinal view of the fibres showed irregularity with slight striations indicating the given fabric sample contained a regenerated fibre.

On treatment with dilute acids showed no significant reaction, the fibres however dissolved in concentrated acids. On treatment with alkalis like NaOH fibres swelled and opened up indicating presence of cellulosic fibres.

Conclusions from all three tests (burning, microscopic and solubility)

Fabric 1 and Fabric 2 is composed of a regenerated cellulosic fibre: bamboo (as quoted by the fabric supplier).
6.2.2 Assessment of fabric properties
Table 2 Standard Performance specification for knitted sportswear

Source: ASTM D 3782- 02 Standards
Evaluation of fastness tests

The given bamboo samples had very good wash fastness properties.

Fabric 1 had good light fastness compared to fabric 2 with fairly good light fastness as white sample showed some yellowing.

Excellent rubbing fastness was noted and very good perspiration fastness.

Table 3 Evaluation of physical properties

The procured bamboo knit has bursting strength of 10.2 g/cm ² (100.02 N/cm2) that is below standard performance specification given in ASTM D3782-02 which is 222 N/cm ². This indicates direction for further research to increasing fabric bursting strength wherein blends of bamboo can be explored.

Tested samples showed good abrasion resistance with only slight pilling. Sports garments are prone to abrasive forces at the collar and sleeve regions on the underside, inner leg and waistbands. Therefore good abrasion resistance property makes the given bamboo knit samples suitable for sportswear.

The weight of single jersey bamboo knit was higher than bamboo rib.

It is evident from the results that the count of single jersey bamboo knit is higher than bamboo rib. Higher fabric count (i.e. Fabric 1: 40 x 42 and Fabric 2: 26 x 36) showed lower air permeability with higher bursting strength and vice- versa.

As shown in the table air permeability of single jersey knit is lesser than rib knit. Conclusions on air permeability must be drawn from a comprehensive testing programme as this physical property for a fabric is dependent on the fibre, yarn, fabric and finish performances. Complete testing of fibre, yarn and fabric was not undertaken in the study.

As per the ASTM D3782-02 performance specification requirement, the wettability of the fabric is excellent. This can be correlated to comfort properties and its good wettability will enhance the easy washability of the fabric.

The fabric showed 11% elongation which is considerably high. Good elongation is one of the necessary requirements for sportswear.

On qualitative interpretation of three garments (unisex, women's and men's garment 1 each) which were given to 10 sportspersons the respondents that the garments were more comfortable to wear and did not soil heavily in comparison to the garments that the respondents regularly wore during their sports activities. This further supports the suitability of bamboo knits for sportswear.
6.2.3 Survey 1
Objective: To gather preferences for knits as sportswear, preferences for colours, for sportswear, awareness of bamboo fabrics, suitability of bamboo fabrics, preference for purchase of readymade sportswear and preference order in terms of ranking for unisex women's and men's designs for sportswear on the basis of pattern and styling.

96% of respondents preferred knits for sportswear and 2% of respondents preferred knits on an occasional basis

21% of respondents preferred shade of blue for sportswear and only 2% of the respondents preferred yellow shade.

42% of total respondents (50) were aware of bamboo knits however 58% of the respondents were not aware. 30% of the total respondents (designers) were aware of bamboo fabrics whereas only 4% of the respondents (sports persons) and 8% of respondents (retailers) were aware of bamboo fabric.

Figure 15 Awareness of bamboo fabrics

96% of total respondents preferred bamboo knits for sportswear and only 2% of the respondents did not prefer bamboo knits for sportswear.

50% of the respondents preferred L followed by 40% preference for M.

Among unisex designs Style 3 was most preferred followed by Style 5, 6 and 4 ranking second, third and fourth respectively. The least preferred were Styles 1 and 2 ranking fifth and sixth respectively.

Figure 16 Preference order for unisex designs for sportswear
Among women's designs Style 6 was most preferred ranking first followed by Styles 1, 2 5 and 3 ranking second, third, fourth and fifth. The least preferred was Style 4 sixth.

Figure 17 Preference order for women's designs for sportswear
Among men's designs Style 3 ranking first was most preferred followed by Style 5, 6 and 2 ranking second third and fourth. The least preferred were Styles 4 and 1 ranking fifth and sixth respectively.

Figure 18 Preference order for men's designs for sportswear
Objectives of Survey 2

To assess acceptability of bamboo knits for sportswear and to gather preferences for the developed garments with regards to style features, commercial value, preferential pricing of products.

All styles and garments in general were rated ranging from excellent to satisfactory

64% chose the criteria of 'over-all appearance' as compared to the other factors for the selection of the sportswear products.

Figure 19 Factors that affect the choice of the garments during rating

The data obtained showed that most of the designed garments were suitable for age group of 20 - 29 years or below 19 years of age.

84% respondents preferred using of bamboo knits for sportswear products and only 16% did not prefer it.

Figure 20 Preference for use of bamboo knits for sportswear
86% of the respondents preferred buying sportswear products and only 14% did not prefer buying sportswear products.

Figure 21 Preference for purchase of sportswear
48% of the respondents felt that it has scope in the domestic market and 38% felt that it would be commercially accepted in the international market.

Figure 22 Likelihood of commercial acceptability of the produced sportswear

44% respondents were of the opinion that the suitable price range for the products is Rs. 1000 – 1200.
6.3 Summary and Conclusions
The following conclusions were drawn from the research data:

The preferred shade was blue as it gives feeling of coolness.

Designers were aware of bamboo knits in contrast to retailers and sportspersons who showed little awareness.

Equal number of designers, sportspersons and retailers were of the opinion that bamboo fabrics are suitable for sportswear.

Considering the styling details

- Two - piece garments for sportswear were preferred more than 1-piece suits or jumper types.

- Attached hoods and stand collars were less preferred in comparison to the more preferred styles with sports collar or no collar.

- Sleeveless and half sleeves garments were preferred more in comparison to full sleeve garments.

The garments were shown to have acceptability on a commercial basis as per the respondents' opinions.

The suitable price range for products is INR. 1000 – 1200 and the actual cost for one set was approx. INR. 800 – 1100.

The given bamboo knit showed good wash, light, rubbing and perspiration fastness.

Procured bamboo knit samples showed low bursting strength indicating directions for further research aiming to increase bursting strength wherein blends of bamboo or finishes may be explored.

6.4 Recommendations for further areas of research

Creating a line of sportswear apparel

Incorporation of other surface embellishments like printing

Including a wider colour range

Dyed fabrics or UV-finished fabrics may be explored instead of white fabrics as it showed yellowing

UV properties of processed bamboo fabrics may be investigated

Soiling tests and launderability of fabric/ garments may be conducted

Bamboo knits can be elaborately tested for physical properties

Blends of bamboo to be explored to increase bursting strength and dimensional stability of fabric when used for sportswear

7. Bamboo knits - a potential sustainable resource for sportswear

Sports garments are prone to abrasive forces at the collar sleeve regions on the underside inner leg and waistbands. Therefore good abrasion resistance property makes the given bamboo knit sample suitable for sportswear.

With higher fabric count, single jersey bamboo knit indicated lower air permeability with higher bursting strength and vice-versa.

Wettability of the fabric was excellent that is correlated to comfort and easy care properties of fabrics.

Bamboo knits showed good elongation which is one of the necessary requirements for sportswear.

8. References
Bamboo knit fabrics have tremendous scope for being used for sportswear designing and product development with positive features of good strength and water absorbency, elasticity, comfort properties and softness. Sportswear is the need of today's consumers and the use of advanced textile and clothing manufacture can provide impetus to the designing and development of sportswear. In conclusion based on the findings of presented research and relevant literature surveyed, bamboo knits certainly have tremendous potential of being used as a sustainable resource in the development of products with a futuristic approach.

Adanur S (1995), Wellington Sears Handbook of Industrial Textiles, Lancaster, Technomic Publishing Co. Ltd.

Black S (2002), Knitwear in Fashion, London, Thames and Hudson Ltd.

Bramel S (2009), Key trends in sportswear design, Textiles in Sports, England, Woodhead Publishing Ltd. in association with the Textile Institute.

Buirski D (2009), Market Overview – Textiles in Sports, England, Woodhead Publishing Ltd in association with the Textile Institute.

Burns L D and Bryant N O (2002), The Business of Fashion, New York Fairchild Publications INC.

DyStar Ecology Solutions (2009), Sustainable Raw Material for Sustainable Textile Production, Colourage, Vol. LVI, No. 10, October, pp. 96-97.

Easey M (2002), Fashion Marketing, Oxford, Blackwell Science Ltd.

Gokarneshan N, Durairaj C Krishnamurthy C, Shanmugasundaram S, Subasree P and Sarnya E (2010), Chemical finishing and washing of knitwear, Manmade Textiles of India SASMIRA Publications, Vol. LIV, April, 2010, pp. 133 – 137.

Hardin I R, Wilson S, Dhandapani R, and Dhende V, (2009), An assessment of the validity of claims for bamboo fibres, AATCC Review, October 2009, Vol. 9, No. 10. Also available at https://www.aatcc.org/media/Read/bamboo.pdf

Jackson T and Shaw D (2006), The Fashion Handbook, Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group.

Kothari V K and Sanyal P (2003), Fibres and fabrics for active sportswear, Asian Textile Journal, Abstract from Texicon, Vol. 15, No. 1–2, Jan–April, pg. 33.

McKenzie J (1997), The Best in Sportswear Design, London, T. Batsford Ltd.

Qisheng Z, Shenxue J and Yongyu T (2002), Industrial Utilization of Bamboo, Beijing Report for the International Network for Bamboo and Rattan Colourmax Publishers Ltd.

Report Department of Trade and Industry – Cottage Industry Technology Center Formulation of a master plan for the development of bamboo as a renewable and sustainable resource (1997) prepared by the Orient Integrated Development Consultants INC.

Rickards L, et al., (2004), Living in Britain Results from the 2002 General Household

Rodman A (2007), Organics fibres the values you wear, September/October, Vol. 18, No. 4.

Sheshachala D, et al, (2008), Comparative study of bamboo and cotton knitted fabric, Man Made Textiles in India, September, pp. 300–303.

Shishoo R (2009), Textiles in Sports, England, Woodhead Publishing Ltd. in association with the Textile Institute.

Tarafdar N (2010), Yarn and fabric design technology for fashion apparels, Manmade Textiles in India, Vol. LIV, May, 2010, 167 - 173.

Tate S L (2004), Inside Fashion Design, India, Pearson Education Singapore Pte. Ltd.

Wadell G (2005), How Fashion Works, First Indian Reprint, Oxford Blackwell Science Ltd.

Waite M (2009), Sustainable Textiles: Role of Bamboo and a comparison of Bamboo Textile Properties, Journal Textile and Apparel Technology and Management, Vol.6, Issue 2 Fall 2009, N.C. State University.

World Wide Web:

Xiao S (2009) https://ezinearticles.com/?How-Bamboo-Fibre-Textile-Makes-You-Have-a-Comfortable -Natural-and-Healthy-Lifestyle&id=2879838 (Accessed on 12 /9/2010).

Zhou et al (2008) https://ip.com/patent/US7313906 (Accessed on 5/10/2010)

onlinemarketpublishers.com/report/consumers_goods/sportswear_market_in_india UK Market Publishers Ltd. Abstract (Accessed on 7/10/2010)

www.statistics.gov.uk/lib2002 (Accessed on 6.09.10)

https://www.aiacaonline.org/admin/pdf/researchd.pdf (Accessed on 10/10/2010)

https://www.ftc.com (Accessed on 25.07.08)

https://www.ftc.com.tw/prod_cotton02e.htm (Accessed on 17.09.09)

https://www.ftcamerica.com (Accessed on 10.08.08)

https://www.hotfrog.com/Companies/Bambo (Accessed on 31.07.08)

https://www.kongfi.com/cp_1.htm (Accessed on 7.08.08)

https://www.socksheaven.com (Accessed on 13.08.08)

https://www.swicofil.com/bambrotexbambooidentification.pdf (Accessed on 14.09.10)

https://www.teonline.com/knowledge-centre/bamboo-fiber.html. (Accessed on 6.09.10)
9. Acknowledgement
https://www.treehugger.com/files/2009/08/bamboo-ftc.php (Accessed on 20.02.10)

The authors wish to extending gratitude to the survey respondents, Ms. Asawari (Texan Lab) and Dr. Nachne (CIRCOT Lab) for helping us conduct the tests, Mr. Suresh Kumar (Nidhi Exports) for procuring fabric and facilitating garment production and authorties at College of Home Science, Nirmala Niketan and libraries at various institutes, Mr. Amit Amembal for the help in preparing the presentation and friends.This Full paper is published in the Conference Proceedings TIWC Manchester.
DR. VISHAKA ASHISH KARNAD (M.Sc. Ph.D. CTEXT FTI) ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR, TEXTILE AND FASHION TECHNOLOGY COLLEGE OF HOME SCIENCE, NIRMALA NIKETAN (AFFILIATED TO UNIVERSITY OF MUMBAI, NAAC ACCREDITED "A" GRADE) [email protected]
Article By:

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Designing and Product Development of Sportswear using Bamboo Knits

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The fashion world is constantly seeking new, natural, eco-friendly textile materials. India, after China, is the second richest country in bamboo genetic resources - a novel textile material. The study attempted to utilize bamboo knits in sportswear. 27 designs were sketched (unisex, women and men-9 each) based on a theme 'Splash' and the color forecast Spring - Summer 2010.

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This article talks about the history of leggings and where it first started and where it has come to. Leggings have been a trend for a long time and this article helped me explain the inspiration for my range.

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Ever wonder where leggings came from and how they became so popular throughout the years? Read about the fascinating history of leggings here.

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My concept includes the idea of aiming to slow down fashion which I hope would be the case across range I have created. This article was therefore able to provide an insight into what brands are doing and I used this information to apply it to a luxury brand such as Gucci.

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Source: Benedetta Claudia Vialli

As I began to write this article, a memory from a year or two ago resurfaced to mind, when I stepped into a H&M store during a window shopping spree. Nothing amidst the hangers piqued my interest, but the pamphlet displayed on the cashier counter did. In bold words across the paper read TOGETHER WE CAN CLOSE THE LOOP. The campaign encourages customers to bring their old garments to any of the store's branches for them to be converted into new clothing. Back then, I didn't think much of it. Now, though, I'm skeptical.

In this day and age when the fight against climate change has been made ubiquitous, it's common to see brands advocating for greater sustainability. Interestingly, in recent years we have seen fashion brands in on the movement too, from Inditex (ZARA's holding company), who promised to use only sustainable material to manufacture all of its clothing by 2025, to Mango, who joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition in 2020.

To address how and why, we must first recognise what fast fashion means. Fast fashion refers to the mass production of clothing, made to attract customers with their too-good-to-be-true low prices and up-to-date styles. To illustrate the extent of the industry's growth, clothing production has actually doubled in the last 15 years. But the thing is, how did fast fashion get to where it is today? Is there anything we can do to slow down the pace of fashion today? And how does the pandemic have a part to play in this slowdown?

The fashion industry underwent its first boom with the invention of the sewing machine in the 1800s. The Industrial Revolution marked the innovation of textile machines that allowed garments to be manufactured in bulk. Still, it wasn't until the 1960s that fast fashion began to take shape, as the younger generation began to opt for cheaper outfits that fit the latest trends showcased on runways. To keep up with the demand, retail stores adopted a new approach to the manufacturing of their clothes: instead of forecasting future trends, they started producing clothes using real-time data.

The term fast fashion made its debut appearance in the New York Times to illustrate ZARA's newest method of sending clothes to their store racks within only half a month from the time of its design. It wasn't just the speed that defined fast fashion, though. The fashion calendar used to consist of the usual seasonal range, with new clothing lines in the form of Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter collections. As trends became ever-changing in the 1990s, more mid-seasons were added to the calendar to meet the needs of customer demand. Today, there are 52 micro-seasons pumped out by the industry every year. Thus, if you ever feel like your outfit is 'out of style', that's because it probably is. More collections means more consumer spending, and thus more profits raked in for the fashion industry.

Yet, the fashion industry isn't all glitz and glamour. Here, we're going to explore more about the effects of fast fashion on the environment, on society, and more.

It comes as no surprise that the fashion world consumes great volumes of natural resources in order to convert cotton or wool into clothing garments. However, the grand scale of the industry has not only severely depleted resource supplies, but it has also negatively impacted our environment in many different aspects.

For one, let's talk about how much water is utilised in the production process. Annually, as much as 93 billion cubic metres of water is used to make textiles and cloth. Worse still, some 17 to 20% of industrial water pollution stems from the release of textile dyes and toxic chemicals into water bodies. In particular, microfibres have been found to be washed ashore in abundance worldwide. These alarming consequences impact the health of both aquatic wildlife, as well as those consuming the water - and that includes us humans, too.

Textile waste is yet another culprit contributing to the current environmental decline. On average, a piece of clothing is worn about 7 to 10 times before it's thrown out. Out of all the clothes produced yearly, around 84% of it ends up in landfills or incineration sites to be burnt, and in the process releases harmful fumes into the atmosphere. One reason why there's so much waste could stem from the fact that most clothes produced are of low quality, short-lasting material, quickly discarded once they have 'gone out of fashion'.

The industry is also responsible for its massive carbon footprint. In 2018, garment production accounted for the emission of 2.1 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases. It's well understood that these gases heavily impact the trajectory of global warming, trapping heat and raising temperatures worldwide. And yet, these statistics are merely a fraction of the effects of the industry on the environment.

The COVID-19 pandemic has affected almost every sector imaginable, and there's no exception for the fashion industry. Lockdowns and preventative measures taken to curb the spread of the virus have led to a shrink in the fashion world. Demand has fallen, retail stores have closed up, and billions of dollars' worth of orders have been cancelled. The industry's aims have shifted dramatically, from profits to survival, all to tackle the plummet in sales.

Facing this obstacle has prompted fashion brands to look towards long-term sustainability. Most notably, the push for a circular textile economy has intensified in recent years. But what exactly is it? In simple terms, under a circular economy model, garments are to be produced, used, and then reused with minimal damage to the environment. This would be achieved by sourcing durable, biodegradable fabrics for apparel, wearing the products for as long as possible, and sending them for recycling or composting by the end of its life cycle. You can find a full report behind this circular economy here.
"The future of fashion is circular. It has to be." - Stella McCartney
But how certain are we that fashion brands will continually commit to this act of sustainability in the post-pandemic setting? After all, it's a collective effort - all fashion companies need to take responsibility to make changes to each aspect of the production process, from outsourcing sustainable materials to designing long-lasting clothes. This leads me back to the first point I raised in the beginning: I'm skeptical, because the work of one retail store cannot possibly reverse the effects of the entire industry on the environment - everyone needs to be involved.

And let's not forget the digitalisation of our world today. For example, Shein, one of many online retail stores, has become a familiar name among younger customers. With the rise of the pandemic comes the rise of online shopping, too. Whilst other fashion brands were suffering, Shein earned around $10 billion from sales in 2020. Their key to success stems from how the Chinese brand has been able to utilise customer demand effectively and churn out about 1,000 new styles each day. These astonishing numbers leave us wondering just how much resources are used up to churn out new clothes every day, and the environmental impact their actions cause.

When we talk about slowing down fast fashion, one factor we have to look upon is how the garment industry exploits the less fortunate. To reduce costs, fashion labels often outsource cheap labour in third world nations, with extremely low wages being paid to overworked garment workers. In 2016, the average worker in Bangladesh toiling in a sweatshop or factory earned around $2 per day. And we can't possibly forget one of the most infamous cases concerning the safety of garment workers: the collapse of the Rana Plaza in Bangladesh 8 years ago, which took the lives of 1,134 workers.

The thing is, these countries rely heavily on the fashion industry for employment, with this sector accounting for 80% of Bangladesh's export earnings. When the pandemic hit shores, around $2.81 billions worth of orders were cancelled, leaving millions laid off from work. Thus, aside from the changes needed to be done to the clothing production, we also need to take into account the factory workers, and the role of major companies in ensuring better working conditions and incomes.

Additionally, boycotting fast fashion isn't as easy a solution for all consumers as you might think. Sustainable brands are the ideal, but high costs of ethical production bleed into the price tags of 'slow fashion' apparel. For lower-income customers, their pay checks limit them from switching over from fast fashion. That doesn't mean that they aren't conscious of the negative impacts of fast fashion - slow fashion just isn't accessible to them. At the end of the day, we can certainly play our part as customers, but if anything, we should not be fuelling the divide in societal classes, but instead focus on fighting for a change for the better in the fashion world.

As we move forward into the future, and as climate change has taken its turn for the worse, it's become a dire situation for us to constrain this cycle of fast fashion. Companies in the fashion industry need to take action - and quickly - if we wish to flatten the curve of climate change, and to aim for a progression in the working force as well.

In order to drive the movement forward, we as consumers too can do our part through cost-effective practices, from purchasing second hand clothes or swapping clothes with others, to buying from more ethical and transparent companies. Additionally, when buying new clothes, it's good to check if they're fairtrade certified apparel, if they're made from organic cotton and the like. If restructuring your wardrobe is not an option for you, you can always contribute with your worn-out clothes by sending them out for recycling. This allows the textiles to be remade into new garments, instead of being discarded away and accumulated in a landfill site.
Collaboration is vital if we are to develop a truly sustainable industry, and to do so as quickly and effectively as possible. - [Written by: Siow Chien Wen] François-Henri Pinault
Even just educating ourselves is a move forward in slowing down fast fashion. As this article only covers this topic on a surface level, I highly encourage you to read extensively about the drastic effects of our fashion industry on the environment, and what we can do to help tackle the issues of climate change. Our efforts, combined with the measures taken by fashion brands, will hopefully drive the fashion industry towards a better and more sustainable future for all of us.

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As I began to write this article, a memory from a year or two ago resurfaced to mind, when I stepped into a H&M store during a window shopping spree. Nothing amidst the hangers piqued my interest, but the pamphlet displayed on the cashier counter did.

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This article shows the ways that Gucci plan on being more sustainable and their strategy to work towards this goal. I used this article for my comp shop as well as the sustainability sections of my INP.

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At Gucci, we are moving forward into the coming decades with an ongoing commitment to reinforce our culture of purpose, demonstrating our values through innovative pathways towards social and environmental sustainability. Powered by creativity and collaboration, we are reducing our environmental impact and helping to protect nature, while supporting people's rights and championing inclusivity and respect, so that everyone in our global Gucci community is free to express their authentic, diverse selves.

Our long-term efforts to design a more sustainable business model was amplified in 2015 when we first announced our 10-year "Culture of Purpose" sustainability strategy, underpinned by a series of targets to achieve by 2025. These targets drive us forward every day to generate positive change for people and planet, and include:

Promoting diversity and gender parity;

Supporting the continuation of craftsmanship traditions;

Offering our teams a sustainable and caring working environment;

Contributing to positive social impacts and supporting transformation across the entire supply chain

Reducing our total environmental footprint by 40% by 2025, from a 2015 baseline relative to growth;

Decreasing our greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by 2025, from a 2015 baseline relative to growth and referring to Scopes 1, 2 and part of Scope 3 - transportation and distribution, business flights, fuel and energy related emissions - of the Greenhouse Gas Protocol. Further, reducing an additional 40% of our scope 3 emissions from purchased goods and services;

Attaining 100% traceability for our raw materials and 100% alignment with our parent company Kering's Standards for Raw Materials and Manufacturing Processes by 2025;

Using 100% renewable energy by the end of 2022;

Developing new eco-friendly sourcing solutions, raw materials and processes by applying disruptive innovation.

These environmental targets are not just about reducing our impacts as much as we can, they are also about creating sustainable supply chains so that we can help protect and restore nature for the future. To chart our progress towards a more sustainable future we use Environmental Profit and Loss (EP&L) accounting, which was pioneered by our parent company Kering. Not only can we use this as a benchmark year-over-year, it allows us to fully understand our environmental impacts at every stage of our supply chain and then transparently share this with our stakeholders. Learn more about the EP&L here.

To reach our overall targets, we have implemented a worldwide environmental and social sustainability programme, touching every part of our supply chain. We are:

Increasing low-impact alternative and sustainable materials in our collections;

Developing sustainable sourcing and innovative on-the-ground programmes;

Switching to renewable energy and implementing energy saving methods;

Optimizing efficiencies during manufacturing with creative approaches

Reducing waste and scaling up circular approaches;

Supporting the conservation and restoration of vital ecosystems around the world;

Enhancing the lives of the people who make our products and focusing on supporting underserved communities globally.

More recently, we also made a pledge to work towards shared and concrete goals with our luxury and fashion peers in three key areas (climate, biodiversity and oceans) by signing the Fashion Pact under Kering.

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At Gucci, we are moving forward into the coming decades with an ongoing commitment to reinforce our culture of purpose, demonstrating our values through innovative pathways towards social and environmental sustainability.

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The Year Ahead: What Product Passports Will Do for Brands

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The Year Ahead: What Product Passports Will Do for Brands

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This article was important as it was used to create the idea of adding product passports to my range. With product passports being one of the state of fashion goals, it made sense for me to add this to my collection.

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This article first appeared in The State of Fashion 2022, an in-depth report on the global fashion industry, co-published by BoF and McKinsey & Company. To learn more and download a copy of the report, click here.
Fashion businesses are pouring investment into digital technologies that allow unique identifiers and other digital information to be added to products. These "product passports" link information that is valuable to both consumers and partners to individual products by leveraging a combination of technologies centred around blockchain and supported by the likes of radio-frequency identification (RFID), QR codes and near-field communication (NFC). Indeed, these technologies are helping businesses to tackle significant industry pain points, such as counterfeiting and the need for more responsible and transparent business practices amid rising consumer engagement with climate change and labour conditions in fashion.

Demonstrating progress in sustainability is particularly important in gaining the trust of younger fashion consumers, as some 43 percent of Gen-Zers say they actively seek out companies that have a solid sustainability reputation. One way to store and transparently share information on a product's sustainability credentials is through technology-based product passports. This information could include details about the product's materials (providing a more detailed and permanent record than traditional sewn-on labels), where and how it was made, and the working conditions at the manufacturer.

For example, Eon's Connected Product Platform allows companies such as Pangaia and Yoox Net-a-Porter to create "digital twins" for their products and private-label collections respectively, containing information that can be updated in real time, such as details on a product's provenance. Similarly, Reformation is partnering with blockchain platform FibreTrace to give customers QR-code access to information on the lifecycles of its denim garments, while TS Designs uses QR-enabled passports to certify garments are made in the US. Though product passports are not a silver-bullet solution to sustainability concerns - as companies still face the challenge of making sure the data they get from suppliers is accurate - they are setting higher standards for supply chain transparency and traceability for fashion.

Product passports are also supporting circularity initiatives like resale and garment-to-garment recycling. In providing detailed data on materials, they facilitate easier collection and sorting of garments for recycling at scale. Like Eon, closed-loop recycling platform Circular Fashion has developed an open data standard that can be read by a variety of applications along the product lifecycle. The company has launched a pilot project with fashion brands such as Armedangels, as well as stakeholders in used clothes collection and sorting, to test applications for scaling garment-to-garment recycling (see "Circular Textiles"). Initiatives such as the European Commission's European Data Space for Smart Circular Applications and the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA)'s call for the digitisation of apparel and footwear labelling are also supporting these kinds of efforts.

"Consumers often remove labels from their garments, separating the garment from its legally mandated fiber content, identity, care, and origin information for the rest of its life," wrote AAFA president and chief executive Steve Lamar in a 2020 letter lobbying the US Federal Trade Commission to support digitised labels in a technology-agnostic way. "[This] would reduce the likelihood that the information gets separated from a product. Consumers, even secondhand consumers, would have constant access to the information over the life of the garment, without having to sacrifice the comfort of the garment."

The growth of resale businesses means it has never been more important to prove authenticity and track a product's history, particularly in luxury.

The growth of resale businesses means it has never been more important to prove authenticity and track a product's history, particularly in luxury. Analysis from the BoF Insights report " The Future of Fashion Resale " suggests that the resale market will reach $57 billion in sales by 2025, up from $27 billion today, while second-hand marketplace ThredUp estimates that resale will grow 11 times faster than the overall clothing retail sector over the next five years.

As resale grows, product passports will ease operational processes by offering readily available digital twins and standardised product information. These will support authentication and valuation, as well as streamline a process that was historically manual, reducing reliance on authenticator specialists who have been in significant demand on industry jobs boards. For example, one feature of Eon's digital passport is to suggest the price of a garment based on its history, including who wore and owned the product, as well as repairs history and advice on marketing. Certainly, the digital authentication offered by product passports will help boost trust in second-hand luxury goods and collectibles, meaning resale platforms such as Vestiaire Collective and The RealReal stand to benefit.

Another application of product passports is in anti-counterfeiting measures. Valued at around $500 billion a year globally, counterfeiting generates more than 60 percent of that value from fashion and luxury goods. The China Certification and Inspection Group is among the organisations to be making strides in the battle against counterfeiting with product passport technology. Its "one item one code" technology allows customers to scan a code and see a simple confirmation of a product's authenticity. Brands are similarly ramping up their efforts. Chanel is launching a digital passport to replace physical authenticity cards in its bags, which will be accessible through a scannable metal plate in the product. This will enable the brand and consumers to immediately recognise authentic products and ensure after-sales services such as repairs are only provided for genuine bags.

Initiatives to develop product passports are emerging in both private and open-source forums. The Aura Blockchain Consortium, a shared private platform launched by companies including LVMH and Prada in spring 2021, leverages unique codes to provide authenticated product records, including ownership history, product authenticity data and provenance of materials. When a customer buys a product, he or she receives an encrypted certificate containing information about the production process. In the open-source space, meanwhile, IBM and luxury and fashion non-fungible token (NFT) platform Arianee are partnering to pilot digital product passports for brands such as Swiss watchmakers Breitling and Vacheron Constantin.

In addition to supporting authentication and traceability, several brands are leveraging these product technologies to drive brand engagement, loyalty and repeat purchasing. Prada is rolling out NFC solutions to offer personalised information and purchasing suggestions to customers who scan NFC tags embedded in products with their mobile devices. Meanwhile, Paco Rabanne has launched its first NFC-enabled fragrance, which allows customers to access digital content such as interactive games and educational features by connecting their smartphone to an NFC chip, and Breitling is leveraging digital passports to share promotions with customers and demonstrate authenticity.

Looking ahead to 2022, a growing number of fashion brands are set to ramp up development of product passports across various B2B, B2C and C2C use cases. Pressure to establish supply chain transparency and adopt circular business models will fuel demand and help justify scaling pilot projects to mainstream applications. At the same time, the growth of luxury e-commerce and resale markets and the need for authentication will encourage adoption, either as part of a collective initiative (such as Aura) or independently (as with Chanel). While the cost of some product passport technologies has historically been a pain point in scaling, costs are coming down: the price of an RFID tag has fallen by 80 percent over the past decade.

A success factor for widespread adoption of product passports will likely be the industry's ability to establish common standards. "Brands are competitors, and there's a lack of cooperation," said Tyler Chaffo, sustainability manager at RFID labelling and supply chain solution company Avery Dennison. Currently, some digital passports only operate on closed platforms, while others are open-source and compatible across a range of applications. Still, there are signs that players are starting to converge around a few solutions, with Aura and Arianee frequently cited in many discussions.

Accessibility and affordability will also be success factors in the burgeoning product passport ecosystem. "It's really important that there's been a democratic process so we could create a governance structure and a standard that works for both smaller brands and big brands," said Timothy Iwata-Durie, Cartier's global innovation director and a member of the Aura board.

From a commercial perspective, product passports will deliver the most advantage to players that can expand their functionality across use cases. For those who get it right, passport technologies will reinforce consumer trust, create exclusivity, support repurchase and enable more sustainable and responsible practices. To encourage scaling, standardisation and compatibility should be top priorities. As these dynamics play out, the key for brands will be to keep pace with innovation and consider collaborations selectively to meet their business objectives.

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The Year Ahead: What Product Passports Will Do for Brands

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Brands are adopting new technologies that store and share product information to improve authentication, provide transparency and boost consumer trust. However, for "product passports" to truly gain traction, businesses must coalesce around common standards and engage with pilot projects at scale.

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This article was briefly used to justify the importance behind slowing fashion down in the sustainability section of my INP. Figures from this article were used across my INP.

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Britons binned clothes worth £12.5 billion last year as the rise of "throwaway" fashion led to 300,000 tonnes of textiles ending up in landfill.

On average each person put eight items in the bin, meaning that every household wasted clothes with a purchase value of almost £500, research found. The problem is greatest in spring as people update their wardrobes for warmer weather.

More than half of those surveyed admitted throwing away perfectly wearable garments, rather than salvaging them for future use or donating them to friends, family or charity shops.

One in ten said they threw away clothes after a few wears because they were cheap to buy and one in twenty admitted ditching unused items because they could not be bothered to return

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Andrew Ellson, Consumer Affairs Correspondent

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Britons binned clothes worth £12.5 billion last year as the rise of "throwaway" fashion led to 300,000 tonnes of textiles ending up in landfill.On average each person put eight items in the bin, meaning that every household wasted clothes with a purchase value of almost £500, research found. The pro

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Complexities of Offshore Apparel Production: Italy vs. China

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Complexities of Offshore Apparel Production: Italy vs. China

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This article was used to help me with my sourcing strategy. As my chosen COO was Italy, it helped me understand the difference between sourcing from a country like China who are known for their production, and Italy who mainly source for luxury brands.

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Fashion is as changing as it is multifaceted and intricate. With many manufacturer options readily available for garment brands worldwide, the decision process of which to work with is not an easy one.

Here, we delve into the battle between the most prestigious apparel sourcing designation, Made in Italy vs. the most popular apparel sourcing designation, Made in China. As price and quality are primary points of consideration in evaluating where to manufacture clothing, footwear, and accessories, the choice of where to manufacture heavily determines your business trajectory. How do Italy and China compare in terms of the offshore production process? Let's take a look.

The Cost Savings of Internationally Sourced Fashion

There is a vast difference in manufacturing costs from country to country. Whether that's due to a lack of regulatory compliance or unbelievably high taxes and tariffs, there's also underlying benefits that come with outsourcing to global manufacturing as compared to staying domestic. The shift of major brands' apparel manufacturing to offshore partners can sometimes afford brands access to lower labor, material, and utility costs. From an economic perspective, we see the emergence of absolute advantage, where the producer, region, or country is able to manufacture products using fewer resources or less time than its competitors. The convenience that comes with this automatically results in the luxury of mass production with a shortened lead time, but at what cost?

The Fashion Manufacturing Process in China

From a global perspective, it's important to understand that the majority of clothing is made overseas in countries like Bangladesh, China, India, and Vietnam. These four serve as the largest garment exporters, heavily contributing to the rise in offshore fashion manufacturing. In terms of mass production, the advantages these countries have over the rest of the world specifically relate to cost and capacity. However, most of these countries have also been caught up in controversies of labor rights and environmental issues. As more consumers become aware of unethical labor and sourcing practices that occur in these countries, that creates a negative perception of the brands that manufacture there and the consumers who support it. From the legalities of labor laws and greenhouse gases emissions, there's a dismissive story behind why these countries are so successful at what they do.

The Appeal of Made in Italy Apparel

On the other hand, clothing with the prestigious "Made in Italy" label signifies a uniquely luxurious brand. Think about worldwide designer brands that shoppers see as luxury must-haves. Companies like Gucci, Versace, and Prada chose Italian manufacturers for a reason. Made in Italy has a strict focus on quality garment production while incorporating luxury-level creative designs and patterns. As opposed to the mass production, fast fashion route that China has taken, Italy has remained true to its craftsman legacy and maintained a traditional role in the fashion industry. Another thing to consider is the time value of money. When looking at manufacturing in countries like China, Bangladesh and India, you're looking for both cheap labor and materials resulting in immediate savings for the company. However, take a second to think about where you want your fashion brand to be five years from now, post-COVID. When considering countries like Italy and France, you're looking at a long term investment emphasizing the importance of consistency regarding quality and connections.

The Importance of Maximizing the Benefits of International Clothing Production

While offshore production comes with pre existing challenges, forward looking luxury brands are tackling these using a mix of digital-assisted sourcing platforms, data driven trend forecasting, and creative supply chain delivery solutions. Due to price differentiation, cultural barriers, and time, brands' manufacturer relationship and labor investment requires a lot of background research, validation, trust, and global market fortune-telling. As this industry constantly evolves, it's important for both producers and consumers to recognize the variability between manufacturing in China vs. Italy. While it may seem as simple as differences in quality, there's a much bigger picture to acknowledge, particularly for those at the forefront of tomorrow's fashion industry.

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Complexities of Offshore Apparel Production: Italy vs. China

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Fashion is as changing as it is multifaceted and intricate. With many manufacturer options readily available for garment brands worldwide, the decision process of which to work with is not an easy one. Here, we delve into the battle between the most prestigious apparel sourcing designation, Made in Italy vs.

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As I wanted to use Bamboo across my idea, this included the sourcing process. I therefore decided to add Bamboo paper to the packaging section of my sourcing strategy. This article was able to help me understand what Bamboo paper is used for and the benefits of it.

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Ironically, the computer revolution has not decreased our use of paper as was predicted when computers began to appear in our homes and businesses. Instead, the demand for paper products has skyrocketed over the last 20 years. In the U.S. alone, per capita consumption of paper and paperboard exceeds 800 pounds each year which places enormous strain on forests that take decades to recover. The increasing popularity of bamboo paper may help to decrease reliance on wood pulp in papermaking and offer some relief to our remaining woodlands.

The Chinese have been making paper from bamboo for over 1,500 years but recent demand has grown considerably as consumers look for environmentally friendly products from renewable resources. Responding to the demand, paper manufacturers are introducing new bamboo paper products to the market that are comparable in strength, brightness, and printability to paper made from wood pulp.

Why should we use Bamboo Paper?

Listed below are several reasons to purchase and use bamboo paper products including:

Bamboo is a quickly renewable resource. Bamboo is the single fastest growing species of plant on the planet with some species growing more than a meter a day. In sharp contrast to trees which require decades to recover from harvesting, bamboo reaches maturity in 3 to 5 years or less and when it is cut, the stem is left in the soil to sprout a new shoot and start the growing process again.

Bamboo thrives in depleted soil. In environmentally stressed areas where rainforests have been clear-cut and burned, bamboo is one of the few plants that can grow easily and begin the process of returning nutrients to the soil. Bamboo also grows on mountainsides and on steep slopes where few other cash crops can.

Bamboo paper is recyclable. Just like paper made from wood pulp, bamboo paper can be recycled to lessen our impact on the environment and further reduce our reliance on trees.

Bamboo helps to reduce soil erosion. The rhizomes (roots) of the bamboo plant branch out from the stalk which helps to secure soil from erosion and retain precious soil moisture. This also helps to prevent silt from choking rivers and streams and affecting aquatic life.

Bamboo provides jobs and economic development. In economically depressed areas where unemployment and lack of income foster civic unrest, bamboo offers farmers a viable cash crop and jobs in bamboo paper mills give residents a chance to provide a higher standard of living for their families. The exportation of bamboo paper products also allows poor countries a chance to build their economies and provide better roads and services.

As more and more consumers look for everyday products that are environmentally responsible, the emergence of bamboo paper products on the world's markets offers us a chance to save our remaining hardwood forests and reduce the catastrophic environmental effects of clear-cutting and deforestation. The impact of bamboo paper on the worldwide paper industry is still being determined but the largest manufacturers are taking notice of this trend in the marketplace and introducing innovative uses for bamboo paper every day.

Bamboo Products

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Ironically, the computer revolution has not decreased our use of paper as was predicted when computers began to appear in our homes and businesses. Instead, the demand for paper products has skyrocketed over the last 20 years. In the U.S.

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Guide To Key Fashion Sustainability Certifications

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Guide To Key Fashion Sustainability Certifications

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This article was mainly used for my sourcing strategy. As I wanted to show a way to confirm authenticity for the fibres used in the collection I researched ways that brands currently do this.

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Which certification best fits your brand of course depends on what your key sustainability priorities are.

We have broken down some of the most used standards into key groupings (fibres, chemicals, circular, working conditions and fair trade) to help you get an overview of the certifications available so you can decide on what is right for your business.

You may expect these certifications to have a purely environmental focus but in fact most certifications in this ca...

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Guide To Key Fashion Sustainability Certifications

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Which certification best fits your brand of course depends on what your key sustainability priorities are. We have broken down some of the most used standards into key groupings (fibres, chemicals, circular, working conditions and fair trade) to help you get an overview of the certifications available so you can decide on what is right for your business.

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An article explaining a recent Gucci initiative which I wanted to add to my INP to justify the reasoning behind my range plan.

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Our commitment to reduce our impact on nature led us to launch "Gucci-Up" in 2018, a project dedicated to the recovery and creative reuse of leftover materials from manufacturing.

Our contribution to the circular economy has strengthened in recent years and, with Gucci-Up, it is being incorporated more and more through new collaborations and innovations.

"Up" stands for "upcycling", which technically means "giving value" to items that are traditionally considered as waste and turning them into resources; raw materials that can be used again and again in new production cycles. In upcycling, waste is transformed through repurposing, repairing and remanufacturing in a way that increases their value, giving it a second life or a virtuous recovery because it makes the most of natural resources and avoids waste going to landfill.

With Gucci-Up, obsolete or out-of-collection materials, scraps and waste generated by our production processes become a precious resource that triggers a new process of regeneration; a process that contributes to the reduction of environmental impacts but also in the creation of positive impacts for the community through the involvement of social enterprises.

High-quality leather and textiles that are no longer used in our production have the possibility of extending their life cycle through different destinations: they are put back on the market or donated to social enterprises for use in socially responsible projects.

In recent years we have set up several specific TAKE BACK and re-use programmes for leftover materials from manufacturing. These initiatives have led to considerable environmental savings associated with the decreased purchase of new raw materials.

Some examples:

In 2022 alone, we collected 648 tons of leather and textile leftovers from Gucci's suppliers totalling 2,171 tons between 2018 and 2022. We've also regenerated 67 tons of metal scraps, equalling 271 tons since 2018, and our material donations amounted to 48,000 meters of fabric in 2022 and 65,000 meters since launching the initiative. We will continue to expand our Gucci-Up programme and also find further innovative ways to upcycle our leftover materials.

Regeneration and recycling of textile waste from our supply chain achieved through a partnership with Green Line, a company specializing in the collection and recycling of textile scraps.

Regeneration of leftover materials from the Gucci Off The Grid ECONYL® scraps are recovered from the production of Gucci Off The Grid and then recycled to create new ECONYL® materials as part of the "GUCCI-ECONYL® PRE CONSUMER FABRIC TAKE BACK PROGRAM".

Collection and reuse of industrial packaging. From 2019, we have reused protective boxes for transporting our accessories to reduce the number of new boxes we make. This is a relatively simple step with the potential for huge impact. In 2022, Gucci has been able to reuse 360,000 boxes, which meant we avoided using 44 tons of plastic for industrial packaging and 175 tons since we launched the programme in 2019.

Promote upcycling through all our discontinued non-branded fabrics and leathers, reusing internally or through external channels, such as donating these materials to non-profit organizations. Starting in 2020, we developed an environmentally friendly process to remove logos or other customizations from leather. In addition, as far as metals are concerned, all accessories are destined for recycling.

Extending into the community, Gucci-Up also contributes to the creation of entrepreneurial projects through partnerships with non-profit organizations that support disadvantaged people: women, migrants, people with disabilities. These partnerships translate into stories of emancipation, empowerment, redemption and innovation. Different stories, but all of them characterized by sustainability and a positive social impact. Discover some of their stories.
...see stories (Quid, Colori Vivi)

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Our commitment to reduce our impact on nature led us to launch "Gucci-Up" in 2018, a project dedicated to the recovery and creative reuse of leftover materials from manufacturing. Our contribution to the circular economy has strengthened in recent years and, with Gucci-Up, it is being incorporated more and more through new collaborations and innovations.