# data[].attributes.body
Step by Step `guide how to construct a bespoke waistcoat.

# data[].attributes.headline
Garment Construction -Toile Making & Pattern Cutting - Theory & Techniques

# data[].attributes.subject
Garment Construction -Toile Making & Pattern Cutting - Theory & Techniques

# data[].attributes.headline
Preparation For Employment Essay by Judea Bogle

# data[].attributes.subject
Preparation For Employment Essay by Judea Bogle

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Copy of Preparation for Employment_Judea Bogle.pptx

# data[].attributes.headline
The Fashion Industry Production Essay by Judea Bogle

# data[].attributes.subject
The Fashion Industry Production Essay by Judea Bogle

# data[].attributes.body
A song about metric measurements

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Metric System Conversions Song | Measurement by NUMBEROCK

# data[].attributes.body
Practical skills Q&A

# data[].attributes.body
Double Jetted Pocket Construction

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Bespoke tailoring level 1 Jett Pocket Construction - Judea Bogle

# data[].attributes.body
Essay regarding The Fashion Industry & Production Process (Part 1)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Generally speaking, worsted wool is the most popular fabric for men's suits around the world and while there are technically many fabrics that fall into the definition of worsted, there are subtle differences in classification among them. One of these determining factors is the wool's so-called super number. You may be familiar with seeing terms like super 120s or super 180s on online retail pages or in fabric swatch books but what exactly does the term super mean in relation to worsted wool?

What Qualifies As Worsted Wool?

The term worsted can alternately describe either a combed yarn, a fabric made from a combed yarn, or a weight of yarn. A combed yarn, by the way, is made when wool fibers are rotated by metal combs that align the long fibers while discarding these short staple fibers. The result is a long lasting fine and smooth yarn with a somewhat glossy finish. Also, by adjusting the pull of these combs on the wool, one can get lighter or heavier yarns whereas varying the twists will impact the look, feel, and strength of the yarn. Tight twisting provides a crisper feel whereas loose twisting makes for a softer but weaker yarn.

Sorting raw wool

Is A Lighter Worsted Wool Better Than A Heavier Weight?

The answer is not necessarily, no. Let's take an overcoat as an example of this principle; while a softer fabric would feel more pleasant on one's skin, a heavier coat made of something like Donegal tweed is going to be much more sturdy and keep you warmer than a lighter and softer cashmere coat would. Of course, you're not often going to be wearing an overcoat against your bare skin but this illustrates the principle that the heavier weight is going to be sturdier than the lighter weight even if the lighter weight is softer.

Nordic patterns wool sweaters

Similarly, you might be under the impression that a lighter weight weave is going to be cooler to wear and a heavier weight would be warmer but this isn't always the case either. Something that's heavy but relatively open in its weave like a fresco fabric, for instance, is going to feel much cooler when worn than something that's tightly woven and lighter like a super 150s fabric, for instance.

With all that said though, fabrics commonly available today are just going to be lighter in general than fabrics which were produced 30 or 40 years ago or even more. This will be readily apparent to you if you visit a thrift store and pick out an old suit. It's probably just going to be heavier than something you'd buy today. It's important to keep in mind then that a lighter fabric with a higher super number is not a hallmark of better fabric, it just indicates the fibers used were thinner in diameter. Similarly, the super number doesn't provide any information about the weave or how heavy the fabric is.

You might be surprised to learn that the wool used to manufacture a great many suits globally comes from sheep which are descended from just two rams and four ewes. In 1789, King Charles the fourth of Spain gifted six sheep to the Dutch East India Company; these sheep were then shipped to South Africa. In 1795, a British immigrant to Australia named John McArthur bought 26 of the offspring of these original six sheep and transported them back to botany bay. These 26 sheep were then bred to form the backbone of what's now the Australian wool industry which has sheep that now number more than one hundred and twenty million. The wool from these sheep produced in grades between 60s and 80s around this time, essentially measuring how fine the yarns were, was top of the line. As such, most of it went directly to tailors on Savile Row. 100s grade wool meanwhile was thought to be unattainable at this time in history.

Sheep produce most of the world's wool

Until the wool mill of Joseph Lumbs and Sons in Huddersfield West Yorkshire England was finally able to produce some of it. Lumb bought enough of this wool for an entire year's supply and brought it to market under the term Lumb's Huddersfield super 100s thus super terminology for worsted wool suits was born. At this time in the late 18th century, British wool merchants would often refer to their wares by largely subjective terminology in describing how fine the wool was; terms like low, medium, fine, the newly created super, and so on. But because producers and consumers eventually wanted terminology that was more objective in how the wool was rated, the city of Bradford, England led the way in grading wool more objectively. This process became known as the English worsted yarn count system or more generally, the Bradford system. Fast forward now to 1968 when the USDA created the United States standards for grade wool, this assigned ranges of average fiber diameter or AFD and maximum standard deviation to the previously set up Bradford count.

Lumb's Huddersfield

So with these standardization systems in place, super still sits as the top designation for how fine wool may be. With that said, some companies have gotten a little subjective again in exactly how they're grading their super wools. So for example, a super 200s wool from one manufacturer might be a bit different in how fine it is from a super 200s wool from another manufacturer. Things are generally going to be fairly consistent, overall. When we're discussing reputable manufacturers of high quality, most of them are going to abide by the guidelines set out in the fabric labeling code of practice from the International Wool Textile Organization or IWTO.

So to recap then, what the super number is actually measuring is how fine the wool is because what's being measured is how many times each of the individual woolen yarns have been twisted around. Generally then, the higher the super number is, the finer the cloth in question will be. Often, this means it will also be lighter but as we said earlier, this isn't always the case. How fine these woolen yarns are is typically measured in micrometers also called microns.

Spun wool yarns

So a higher super number will mean that a fabric is going to be softer to the touch and generally will feel more like luxurious. Conversely, a lower super number will mean that the cloth is more sturdy and probably warmer. As we've said, it will generally be heavier but not always. While it's commonly believed that the super number of a given fabric also has something to do with its individual thread count, this simply isn't true and there's not a correlation between the two measurements. While a higher super number does to some extent denote the exclusivity of a given fabric, because something like a super 200s would contain some of the rarest wool fibers available, this is only an indication of that exclusivity and rarity, not necessarily subjective quality.

Here's another important note, the full word "super" can only be applied to fabrics made of pure new wool. Also, fabrics made with wool blended with other things like cashmere, alpaca, silk, or so on can use the slightly related S designation, though not the full word super.

How Do These Super Numbers Translate Into Considerations For Wearing?

Stated simply, anything with a higher super number is going to be more temperamental and hard to care for over time. The thinner, finer fibers of a wool with a high super number may have an amazing hand which is to say how soft they feel to the touch but they're also going to break down much more quickly than a heftier fiber would.

As an example here, something like a super 180s wool would probably feel softer on the body whereas something like a super 100s wool is going to be more durable, less prone to wrinkling, and probably better suited for repeated everyday wear. On that note, snags in finer fabrics happen much more frequently and are also far more difficult to repair than a snag in a comparatively coarse fabric.

Open Weave Wool Suting Fabric

Speaking generally then, it's our opinion that it's best not to get overly caught up in the super numbers of your worsted wool suits. Very good quality suits can be created from wool in the super 100s to super 150s range and even below that, and of course, a suit which is well fitted to the wearer's body is going to look great regardless of what the super number might be or even if it doesn't have one. Conversely, something in a super 180s or super 220s wool is still going to look sloppy if it doesn't fit your frame well.

Finally today, we've got a few general guidelines for you if you really do want to pay close attention to the super numbers of your suits and how you could wear them effectively.

For standard everyday wear, you could go with something with a pretty low super number. Something that's below 100 up to a super 100s or super 120s, for example. For an important business meeting, a conference, or something that's a bit more important than the average day-to-day at the office, you could go with something like a super 130s or super 150s and for special events, you could go with something like a super 180s or anything above that. Again, these are just hypothetical suggestions.

If you really do want to pay attention to your super number, of course, you could wear a suit made from a different material entirely than worsted wool and still look good or you could wear a worsted suit that doesn't even have a registered super number. You just have to make sure that the suit is fitting you well and flattering your form.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion then, while the super number of a worsted wool can be handy in determining how fine and soft the yarns of a given wool are, it shouldn't be used as the only measure of quality in wool suiting. Remember to focus first on fit then determine if you really like the look of the suit and how often you think you will wear it. From this point, you can consider the super number. So which part of today's explanation did you find most intriguing? And if you are one of those men that pays attention to the super number of your suits, do you have a favorite number? Share with us in the comment section below!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Wool Suit Fabric "Super" Numbers Explained - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Generally speaking, worsted wool is the most popular fabric for men's suits around the world and while there are technically many fabrics that fall into the definition of worsted, there are subtle differences in classification among them. One of these determining factors is the wool's so-called super number.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Those who appreciate classic tailoring take considerable time and care when selecting the clothes they buy and wear. A similar level of dedication is needed to maintain and protect your investment. Knowing how to iron your dress shirts, trousers, and tailored jackets is a useful skill to keep you looking sharp; on the other hand, ironing incorrectly can ruin your clothes. In the first of our three-part series, we talk about the preparations and equipment you need for successful ironing and explain the process of ironing a dress shirt.

Why Iron Your Own Tailored Clothes?

If you live in or near a major city, and even in many smaller towns, you can probably find a tailor, dry cleaner or laundry that offers a clothes pressing service. They will almost certainly have professional equipment like commercial-grade irons, a vacuum table, and a self-inflating, steam-generating dummy to make quick work of your wrinkled garments. So, why should you bother to do it yourself?

1. It Can Be Tricky to Find a Reliable Service

One reason is trust. You first need to be assured that the service has experience handling expensive fine tailoring and the skill to make them look their best. Have they pressed suits before, or will they flatten out your lapels and shine up the wool? Horror stories of such damage are not exactly rare on Styleforum. Your chances may be better in the UK, where there is a higher concentration of long-established professional ironing services.

2. It's More Convenient and Saves Cash

Another reason is cost in time and money. Depending on the size of your wardrobe (and your wallet) and how often you need to remove wrinkles, professional pressing can add up. It also requires you to spend time dropping off and picking up your items.

3. Quality

If you invest $200+ in dress shirts, you want them to last and not be damaged by improper washing and ironing. Unless you have a professional available who irons your shirts by hand and treats your shirts with care, you are better off ironing yourself because you will get a better quality result and your shirts will last longer. Alternatively, you can hire maybe a house cleaner who is willing and able to also iron your shirts.

4. Personal Satisfaction

Lastly, there is the simple satisfaction of being self-reliant. When you press your clothes and end up with a crisp white shirt and a sharp trouser crease, you feel a sense of pride and accomplishment that you literally carry with you when you wear them. Readers with a military background who had to keep their dress uniforms well pressed will know the feeling. Even if you do send your clothes for professional ironing occasionally, possessing the knowledge of how to do it yourself is invaluable.

Preparing to Iron: Getting the Right Equipment

Like any maintenance task, from shaving to detailing your car, successful ironing requires some gear. If you're the sort of person who collects specialty tools, athletic equipment, or kitchen utensils, you may be up for some ironing equipment too. Detailed below are some items for your ironing setup from the basic necessities to those you might consider for a more sophisticated arrangement.

1. The Best Sturdy Ironing Board You Can Afford

Though an ironing board seems to be just a board, it will be your primary work surface, where all the action takes place. And, as with most things in life, including clothes, it's worth investing in higher-quality, more expensive items that will last longer and yield better results rather than getting a cheap alternative that will ultimately disappoint. Your ironing board needs to be long enough to lay flat a pair of pants or a shirt sleeve fully extended and wide enough to spread out one side of a jacket or shirt. A free-standing model about 18″ wide by 48″ long would be a good choice and costs anywhere from around $40 to over $100. A good option in this range is made by Brabantia.

Some come with an iron rest, cord manager and racks to place finished ironing, though you may find you don't use these and simply stand the iron up on the board. The padded cover for the board should be sufficiently padded to give you a smooth, uniform surface; you shouldn't be able to feel the material of the board through it. The pad shouldn't shift or come off easily either. Lastly, the metal underside of the board should be perforated to allow steam and moisture to escape easily through the padding.

Professional Vacuum Ironing Boards Are Best

If you can afford it, a professional grade ironing board with a vacuum engine should actually be number one on your list of requirements.

Essentially, these provide vacuum suction at the touch of a switch or foot pedal. When you place an article of clothing on the board, the vacuum grabs it firmly and evenly to the surface, eliminating the possibility of dragging and further wrinkling as you move your iron on the fabric. The suction also draws the moisture from your steam iron down and out of your clothes as you press them. This will release all the wrinkles, but you do not need to wait until your shirt is dry. The result is a shirt that is pressed better, in less time than you would need on a conventional ironing board.

Vacuum boards are, honestly, the secret to professional-looking results. They do cost more, but once you have an ironing board with a vacuum pump, you never go back because it is superior in every way. In fact, the result of a cheap iron with a vacuum board will still be better than a higher-end iron with a conventional board. The true perfectionist or dandy should ultimately budget for replacing a traditional ironing board with one that contains a vacuum. Sven Raphael Schneider has been using this professional grade vacuum board for years.

2. The Best Iron You Can Afford

Like boards, irons themselves come in a range of prices (again from $40 to several hundred dollars) with various options. The underside or sole plates of better irons are either ceramic coated or stainless steel, and both are fairly interchangeable in terms of how well they glide over fabric (though, as we will discuss later, you won't be doing that much gliding). The most important factors for choosing an iron are then its weight and the number of steam holes. If you're looking to start with a basic iron, a Sunbeam with a convenient retractable cord is a good budget option for around $30. In the video we use a double pointed iron by Panasonic that won't break the bank. In the mid-range ($60), this Rowenta model has great reviews.

Online ratings may promote lightness as a selling point, but weight is important for pressing. The heaviest iron you can handle reasonably will be an advantage when pressing a sharp crease into trouser legs, and professional pressers often express nostalgia for hefty antique models that were actually made of iron.

The second key feature is how well the iron delivers steam. Higher pressure and a large number of steam holes in the sole plate will help remove wrinkles quickly from a hanging suit jacket. Other than these attributes, there aren't particular advantages to more expensive irons except, perhaps, the presence of a larger attached water reservoir, often called a "steam station," which can be seen in higher-end Rowenta irons like this one (under $300), which boasts 400 steam holes.

3. Distilled Water and a Way to Deliver it

You can use tap water to fill your iron, but, for reasons we'll talk about below, it's better to use pure, distilled water instead. You can buy a gallon for around $1 at any grocery store. In addition to steam, you'll sometimes want to spray the surfaces of your clothes to press out wrinkles. Your iron will already have a spray function, but this only puts water directly in front of the iron and doesn't allow you to get good coverage anywhere you want. Opt for a spray bottle instead and set it to mist. Some professionals actually use a 2-3″ paintbrush and a bowl of water, especially when moistening wool.

4. A Pressing Cloth

To avoid creating unsightly shine or glossing on dark wool garments, it's important to own a pressing cloth, homemade or otherwise. You simply press through the cloth rather than applying the iron directly to the fabric. You can easily find an inexpensive commercial pressing cloth made of mesh to enable you to see through to what you are ironing. Some people just use a small towel, but professionals, like tailor Alex Hamka in Detroit, often recommend old shirting fabric or pocket liner cloth for the best results. To get a large enough piece, you'd need to buy a pocket liner from a fabric store, but you can readily recycle your defunct shirts into pressing cloths for free.

5. A Sleeve Board

If you frequent tailor shops, you've likely encountered what looks like a mini tabletop ironing-board. This is a sleeve board, and as the name implies, it's the perfect size for pressing shirt and jacket sleeves. However, you will see professional pressers using it to do much more, such as ironing pants legs and doing concentrated work on smaller areas like waistbands and shirt collars since it raises the work up closer to your view.

It's not a necessity but worth a try as an added convenience. A basic sleeve board can be purchased for $10 on Amazon, while a tailor-quality one will run you over $40.
Sven Raphael Schneider of Gentleman's Gazette highly recommends this sleeve board.
6. A Presser's Ham

Also known as a tailor's ham, this is a cushion shaped, as the name suggests, like a baked ham. A ham is similar to a sleeve board in its use though with less firmness and more shaping power. Its purpose is to serve as a curved ironing surface for areas of clothing that aren't meant to sit entirely flat when worn, like the rise of a pair of trousers or the upper chest of a jacket. Its shape more closely reflects the curves of the human form than an ironing board and thus enables pressed clothes to conform better to the body when worn. We are using this one from Amazon, which is quite affordable. It's worth having one for the versatility it provides, especially if you are keen on details. You can also substitute a similarly shaped cushion if you already have one with a smooth surface.

7. A Tailor's Clapper or Point Press

A clapper is essentially a block of wood, usually similar in shape and size to the bottom of a broom, minus the bristles. It's used primarily to finish the crease on the front of dress pants. Immediately after pressing in the trouser crease, you either apply the weight of the clapper onto the crease or bang it down for more dramatic effect. A clapper isn't strictly needed but those who use it, including the pros, praise the amazingly crisp results it gives. You can find a wooden tailor's clapper on Amazon, or make your own with any block of wood as long as it has a completely smooth finish, to avoid catching on fabric.

8. A Steam Press

Steam presses, such as those made by Singer ($250), tend to be popular with people who want to get wrinkles out as quickly as possible and are willing to sacrifice precision. They can do a nice job of pressing a crease into your trouser legs-if you line up the seams properly. They can also flatten broad areas, like the front of a shirt, but they don't do as well with details like waistbands and collars. They can't press a sleeve without risking an unwanted crease and certainly shouldn't be used on a suit jacket. For the true attention to detail required by tailored clothing you still need the precision of a hand iron. Therefore, a press is not recommended unless you don't mind owning a specialized $250 piece of equipment just for pants legs. Better to invest the cash in a vacuum ironing board.

9. A Clothes Steamer

A handheld steamer for clothes ($60 on Amazon) is somewhat more useful than a pants press though its role can also be fulfilled by other options. The main benefit of a steamer is that it releases wrinkles from suit jackets and sport coats without contacting the fabric. You just hang the clothes and apply the steam from a few inches away. However, this can also be done by puffing out steam from a standard iron if you don't mind holding the button down a bit more or simply by hanging suits overnight in the bathroom after a hot shower. Therefore a steamer should only be a secondary purchase, especially if you can also use it on curtains.

10. Linen Sprays

Naturally scented sprays, like lavender water, are a nice touch to add extra deodorizing when ironing. Because they do contain essential oil, it's best to spray them lightly on the inside of clothing rather than on the outer surface to prevent any chance of staining. As a finishing touch, I spray mine on the Bemberg lining of jackets, especially in the underarm area, followed by a burst of steam.

Not on the List: Spray Starch

Conspicuous by its absence from this list is spray starch. You'll find a lot of debate online over whether starching a shirt trades a crisp look for a shorter garment life, but that isn't the motive for excluding spray starch from our ironing requirement. The reason is that a light spray with a supermarket brand will have minimal effect. Those who like stiff shirts need instead to immerse them in a liquid starch solution after washing, which is the traditional method employed by laundries.

Preparing to Iron: Rethink the Concept

Once you have the proper gear, you are ready to make basic preparations for successful ironing. Similar to taping off window frames and moldings before painting a room, preliminary steps are important.

In our fast-paced, over-scheduled age, people too often prefer to do things with haste and indifference. That's why so-called "wrinkle-resistant" and "non-iron" clothes are popular. But these are either made of cheap synthetic materials or are coated with chemicals that give them an unusual sheen until the treatment inevitably washes out. So, if you choose quality clothes made of natural fibers, you'll need to iron, and, the fact is, ironing is a process; it should be done with care and deliberation, not last minute before running off to work. However, it doesn't have to be the chore it is made out to be.

Psychologically, it's worth looking at ironing in a positive light. You might plan for it to be a weekend ritual, some quiet time set aside when you can think and de-stress by yourself while you multitask by refreshing your garments. Or, you can put on some music you enjoy. Ironing time will be an opportunity to relax without feeling like you aren't doing something productive. Not surprisingly, the Japanese are known for ironing competitions and skilled ironing, as it reflects their culture's attention to deliberative, ritualized practice like the tea ceremony, bonsai cultivation or ikebana flower arrangement.

Conclusion

It is absolutely possible to iron at home like a pro. If your budget allows for it, a vacuum table is a great investment into your wardrobe. In any case, you should invest in a steam iron, a tailor's ham, a sleeve board, a spray bottle, a plastic bag, and a clapper. These items will help you to get perfectly ironed garments.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Complete Guide to Ironing: Part I, How to Iron a Shirt - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Those who appreciate classic tailoring take considerable time and care when selecting the clothes they buy and wear. A similar level of dedication is needed to maintain and protect your investment. Knowing how to iron your dress shirts, trousers, and tailored jackets is a useful skill to keep you looking sharp; on the other hand, ironing incorrectly can ruin your clothes.

# data[].attributes.headline
W.W Chan Tailor The best bespoke tailor in Hong Kong

# data[].attributes.subject
W.W Chan Tailor The best bespoke tailor in Hong Kong

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Usually when people talk about bespoke suits, Europe, especially England, Italy and sometimes France are the first to come up in conversation. Some might mention the few bespoke tailors left in the US and then finally, last, but not least, Hong Kong is infamous among many tourists for its "bespoke" suits. For some reason, the former Crown Colony managed to establish itself as a bespoke destination.

During my last extended trip to China, I had to find out whether this was simply a myth or a substantiated claim, and hence, I stayed several days in Hong Kong.

The city - or better yet metropolis - is really fascinating! The mix of western culture and Chinese influences makes for an especially exciting environment.

The following article is dedicated entirely to bespoke (custom) tailoring in Hong Kong. While I was visiting the city, I had the chance to visit several tailors in their shops and I was also able to talk in depth to quite a few of them. As a veteran of bespoke clothing market, I was able to get an idea of the general level of bespoke tailoring in Hong Kong.

Basically, the tailors I visited all belonged to one of two categories. On the one hand, there are many tailors who acquire their clientele on the street and advertise quick turnaround times for little money. I would also rate tailors with a showroom in hotels in this category.

Hands down, there must be hundreds, maybe thousands, of tailors of that kind in Hong Kong, and most of the time, the prices are so low that you cannot expect a true, handmade bespoke quality garment.

On the other hand, there is W.W. Chan - a bespoke tailor shop that definitely focuses on the premium market in Hong Kong.

The History of WW Chan

WW Chan graduated from The Shanghai Cutting and Tailoring College with first honors in 1943. In Shanghai, Chinese tailors created a unique style incorporating elements from British, American, Japanese and other countries. This later became known as the Red Gang, of which WW Chan belonged. In 1948, WW Chan moved from Shanghai to Hong Kong where he worked as a tailor. In 1982, his son, Peter Chan, took over the business, and ever since 2003, Patrick Chu has been the general manager of WW Chan.

W.W. CHAN & SONS TAILOR LTD. - the Bespoke Tailor in Hong Kong

The difference between W.W. Chan and the other bespoke tailors becomes obvious when looking at their client acquisition. The bespoke tailoring shop on Nathan Road is unimposing. You cannot see any ads on the outside, and passing tourists are not stalked by a sales person who offers "authentic bespoke suits". Only when you enter Burlington House and walk down the aisle can you see a small, unpretentious sign that guides you to W.W. Chan's bespoke tailor shop.

Once you step inside the door, it almost feels like you are in a different world all of a sudden. After I was greeted friendlily and discreetly, I was guided to the salon, with its sophisticated mahogany shelves full of cloth from the likes of Scabal, Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry, and Zegna, among others.

Every cloth is authentic and, as far as I could tell, they only offered the finest fabrics from the best European weavers and mills. After I asked the friendly sales person a number of in depth questions, he immediately recognized that it was better for me to talk to someone else. Shortly thereafter, I was introduced to Mr. Patrick Wa Miu Chu, the general manager of W.W. Chan.

In perfect English, he answered my questions and explained the details of a W.W. Chan bespoke garment to me.

The Details of a W.W. Chan Bespoke Suit

Firstly, at WW Chan, the customer is king, and as such, it is the utmost goal to fulfill the clients wishes. Secondly, they only use the high quality inputs and only tailor the best fabrics from Italy and Great Britain.

WW Chan's House Style includes a small amount of shoulder padding, as well as a soft and clean bespoke look. The chest canvas is padded by machine, whereas the lapels are padded entirely by hand, while the area around the shoulder is reinforced. Overall, the level of workmanship is absolutely comparable to many European tailors.

Every suit, every sportscoat, every topcoat, and so on, is (mostly) hand-tailored on the premises. Moreover, W.W. Chan offers bespoke shirts which are also sewn in their tailor shop using Albini cloth and other comparable qualities.

In comparison to the level of bespoke craftsmanship at W.W. Chan, many Hong Kong tailors simply take the customer's measurements and forward them to a large production facility in mainland China, where a (semi)industrial suit is produced. Once it is done, it is sent back to Hong Kong, where only minor adjustments will be made.

At WW Chan, each client receives his individual paper pattern, the fabric is cut by hand, the canvas is mostly hand-padded, the pick stitching is very neat and the horn buttons are of good quality. Apart from that, a WW Chan suit fulfills all the requirements of a true bespoke suit.

The final workmanship is definitely on par with most bespoke garments of European origins. For Americans or Europeans, WW Chan's prices are rather attractive, though for Hong Kong, they are definitely at the upper end of the price scale.

The Price & Availability of W.W. Chan Bespoke Garments

A two piece W.W. Chan bespoke suit tailored from high quality Zegna fabric will set you back about HK$ 12,000 (about $1,550). This is considerably less expensive than a bespoke garment from an American tailor or from Savile Row, but it obviously includes the need to travel to Hong Kong. Please bear in mind, that WW Chan does not work with the customer's own fabric, but considering there are probably thousands of fabrics available, I am positive you will find something you like.

A bespoke suit from some of the lower end tailor shops begins at HK$ 500. Obviously, there is a huge difference between a true bespoke garment and a imitator bespoke suit, so don't fool yourself - good quality has its price.

It usually takes WW Chan about 9 days to tailor a suit - including fittings. If you are considering a bespoke suit from WW Chan while in Hong Kong, you should give yourself at least that much time. While 9 days is an extremely fast turnaround time for a bespoke garment, many street tailor shops will offer tourists a new garment within 24h. But this is not the kind of customer WW Chan is aiming for.

Other than the shop in Hong Kong, WW Chan is available at the Armoury Haberdashery and recently WW Chann opened a store in Shanghai. If you cannot travel to Asia, they also offer tours to the US as well as to London on a regular basis. You will find the exact dates on their website under 'Tours' (in the top right corner). Of course, it will not take days, but rather months to receive a new bespoke suit that way - but that is still good for a travelling tailor.

Recommendation

I can wholeheartedly recommend W.W. Chan to anybody who would like to get a bespoke suit made in Hong Kong. After visiting numerous tailors in Hong Kong, I know that W.W. Chan was, to me, the only tailor I would ever order a suit from in the region.

Addresses:

W.W. Chan & Sons Tailor Ltd. - Hong Kong
Mr. Patrick, Wa Miu CHU
94 Nathan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong
A2, 2/F Burlington House
Tel.:852- 2366-9738
Fax: 852-2368-2194
Email: sales@wwchan.com
www.wwchan.com
Business hours: Monday to Saturday (9:00am - 6:00pm)

__________________________________________

W.W. Chan - Portman Shop - Shanghai
Suite 528, 5/F., West Tower Shanghai Centre,
1376 Nanjing Road West, 200040, China
Tel: 86-21-6289-8682
Fax : 86-21-6289-8683
Email: shanghai@wwchan.com
Business hours: Monday to Sunday (09:00am - 08:00pm)

__________________________________________

W.W. Chan - The Armoury - Hong Kong
Pedder Building (3rd Floor)
12 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong
Tel.: 852-2804-6991 307
Email: info@thearmoury.com
www.thearmoury.com
Business hours: Monday to Saturday (11:00am - 8:00pm); Sunday (12:00pm - 4:00pm)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
W. W. Chan - the Finest Bespoke Tailor from Hong Kong - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Usually when people talk about bespoke suits, Europe, especially England, Italy and sometimes France are the first to come up in conversation. Some might mention the few bespoke tailors left in the US and then finally, last, but not least, Hong Kong is infamous among many tourists for its "bespoke" suits.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Within the framework of a standard men's dress shirt, many variations can exist; there are differences in fit, cuff style, buttons, and so on. But what of the collar? Read on to discover the many variations.

If you're in North America, the first dress shirts you bought probably had some kind of point collar; in Britain and mainland Europe, you likely bought spread collars. In either case, you may not have thought much about the collar style-it was just a shirt. However, when you begin to explore the nuances of classic menswear, you'll uncover an incredible range of different collar possibilities, and you'll likely be interested in trying them. Here's a primer to get you down the rabbit hole.

Shirt Collar Parameters - The Factors Behind the Styles

Before we begin to look at the wide variety of collar styles available, it's useful to consider the various parameters that influence how a collar looks. These are level of stiffness, height, size, and spread.

1. Collar Stiffness

From the 1820s to the 1930s, stiff collars (made so by the liberal application of starch) were the norm. These collars were detachable for replacement in an era where effective detergents and laundering were not available. Nowadays, a reminder of the stiff detachable collar exists in contrast-collar shirts (also called Winchester shirts), but collar stiffness is determined by the thickness of the fused (glued) interlining used to form the collar.

Influenced by Italian style and the Duke of Windsor, soft collars are more popular these days, particularly with soft tailoring. So, if you prefer sport coats that have natural unpadded shoulders, a soft shirt collar can also be chosen to continue the Neapolitan style. Soft collars are more casual as well, so they are perfect for warm weather and relaxed looks anytime. On the other hand, if you are wearing a formal business suit, a firmer collar is the better option for a crisp and sharp appearance. Something in between the two-a medium hardness-may be the most versatile choice. When going made-to-measure or bespoke with shirts, you can usually select your collar stiffness.

2. Collar Height

Collar height is the measure of how high a collar sits on your neck, measured from the fold down to the point. Taller collars are more formal as well as more aggressive; they communicate that you're a boss. When choosing a shirt for the workplace, be aware of the impression that collar height makes. A high collar is more typical of Italian style and can even require two collar buttons to support the added height. Taller collars can also require some getting used to in terms of the way they feel on your neck. If you're interested in trying a shirt with a tall collar, consider some offerings from brands like Proper Cloth and Eton.

3. Collar Size

Related to height is overall size. Some collars, like the cutaway, which we will discuss below, are small and minimalist. Other collars are quite large. Collars at either extreme are more rakish and non-conformist. So, again, something of moderate size is ideal for business. For pleasure, the choice may be purely determined by your face shape. If you have a large head or round face, a bigger collar is more suitable to balance out your appearance. Wearing a tiny collar in such cases will only make your face look disproportionately larger. Keep in mind that collar style should conform to face shape, and in terms of size, you want to choose one similar to the size of your head and face.

4. Collar Spread

Lastly, there is collar spread-basically, the distance between the points of the collar. The wider the spread, the more aggressive. Face shape again comes into play. If you have a thin or narrow face, a spread collar can help counterbalance that; wearing a narrow collar in this case will only enhance the impression of narrowness and make your head look longer. On the other hand, if you have a wide or round face, wearing a collar with the points closer together will slim down your face. So, unlike collar size, in terms of spread, you want to choose essentially the opposite of your face width. A convenient means of categorizing shirt collars is by the distance between the points from narrow to wide.

Types of Shirt Collars

1. The Point Collar

In North America, the standard or default business collar is likely the point. As evident from the name, this style is characterized by the fact that the collar tips are pointed. The spread between the points is small (in the range of 1.5″ at the very narrow range to 3.5″). As such, your collar will not expose any of the tie on either side beyond the knot if you wear a four-in-hand. When wearing a jacket, the points of the collar will not be covered by the lapels. This collar flatters if you have a wide face. A point collar seems to work best in medium stiffness. A stiff point collar will make the collar stand away from the shirt when you are wearing a tie, so there is a gap between the collar and the shirt.

1a. The Spear Collar

A retro version of the point collar is the spear, which, like its namesake, has really long points. These have made something of a comeback of late because their length is considered a rakish change of pace while still being usable in the same circumstances as the standard point. You can find versions of this collar in shops with vintage style; the point-collar shirts sold by Edward Sexton are also quite narrow and thus lean toward being spears.

2. The Tab Collar

Speaking of vintage, within the same spread range as the point collar but with a distinctly classic look is the tab collar, which features an underlying tab beneath each collar leaf that fastens on the top button. This pulls the collar tips closer together while also lifting the knot of your tie for an even more distinguished appearance. Because of the tabs, this collar can only really be worn with a necktie, not open at the neck.

3. The Club Collar

Another collar with a narrow spread and a vintage appearance is the club worn by Sven Raphael Schneider toward the top of the article. This collar originated at Eton College, which had previously been the incubator of Beau Brummell's stylistic innovations. The young gents who attended there were looking for a way to distinguish themselves from other schools and hit upon rounding off the collar points, which is the defining feature of the club collar. It is possible to wear a club collar that is also a tab collar, as the former is defined by the shape of the collar leaves and the latter by the presence of a hidden tab.

4. The Pin Collar

The various collars with a smaller distance between the leaves or points lend themselves readily to the use of collar pins, clips, or bars. These are accessories designed to close the space between collar points while also elevating your tie knot. If your shirt is designed with special holes in the collar leaves, you can use a collar pin, which looks like a large safety pin, or a collar bar, which resembles a barbell with an end that unscrews. Such special pin collars are sold by Eton and Edward Sexton among others. Like the tab collar, because the pin or bar draws the collar leaves closer together the spread of such a collar will never be wide.

You can also create the look of a true pin collar with a collar clip, which can be used with point or club collars without punching holes in them. Like cuff links, collar pins are a bit of "man jewelry" to elevate your personal style. Since they were popular mainly in the first half of the 20th century, they do create a vintage look and will get attention. Fort Belvedere offers a variety of these accessories in silver and gold for you to try.

5. The Square Collar

There are also shirt collars that are quite small with a minimal spread, among them the square collar, so called because the collar points are squared off. These were worn, usually in detachable form, in the early twentieth century, but are quite hard to find today.

6. The Button Down Collar

Although it originated on England's polo fields, the button down collar has become an American favorite after it was introduced by Brooks Brothers, especially as part of Ivy, prep, and trad styles. The button-down collar is a variant on the point-collar dress shirt and is stylistically appealing for those who want to dress down but. But, in today's casual world, a button-down with a tie and a sport coat is still quite well dressed. Fans of sprezzatura will leave the buttons open, or even just one button, to project a sort of nonchalance. For others, doing this can seem sloppy or c0ntrived, however, so it's a matter of personal style.

Many men leave their button down collar undone for a look of sprezzatura

Some button down collars are soft and others are not. Those who like collar roll, where a longer collar curves to create some space around the tie knot, love a soft button down for achieving this effect. You can see this in the image directly above. I like collar roll, but the buttons on the button down are too casual for me, so an option is the hidden button down, which contains snaps or a loop and button beneath the collar points, allowing the roll and the collar to sit in the same way but with the buttons hidden.

7. The Spread Collar

Once the distance between the collar point widens we have a spread collar, noted as the default collar of London (and European) business wear. The spread collar was originally popularized as a means of wearing wider tie knots like the Windsor and Half-Windsor, but some spread collars will still allow you to wear a four-in-hand without exposing the string of your tie next to the knot. A spread collar will also accommodate thicker ties, such as those made of wool, cashmere or other heavier fabrics. The line between the spread and cutaway collar is not well defined as some brands (Eton, for one) call their spreads cutaways, and there can exist a range of distances between the collar points. Usually a 4″ distance could be considered "semi-spread" with most spread collars showing 5-6″ between the collar points. We can also look at it in terms of angles, with the angle formed by the spread collar being 45 degrees or greater. Generally speaking, a wider spread collar is more suitable for men with a narrow face shape, as it draws the viewer's eyes outward, creating the impression of a wider face.

8. The Cutaway Collar

The cutaway collar is a type of spread collar that is defined by the wide distance between points (over 6″) or the obtuse angle formed by said points. In some cases, the angle of the collar can be a completely horizontal 180 degrees (or zero, depending how you look at it); that is, the front of the collar forms a nearly straight horizontal line.

For cutaway collars, a large tie knot is essential to avoid showing the string of the tie along with the knot, though some men will tie a regular four-in-hand and rev as a nod to rakish indifference. In collars that are labeled "extreme cutaway," the collar points actually angle backwards, behind the neckband. This collar can be favored in Italian, especially Neapolitan, tailoring and is quite an aggressive look. If you wear these at all, they are best worn tieless with the top button or two open. If worn with a necktie, the string of your tie will definitely show next to your knot.

9. The Band Collar

The concept of the cutaway collar taken to its farthest extreme would lead the collar leaves to disappear completely, leaving just the band. This sort of collar, standing 1-2″ high can be referred to as a Mandarin for its origins in Chinese clothing and a granddad shirt (when worn as part of a casual, rustic American style). This shirt must be worn tieless.

10. The Wing Collar

Reserved only for the most formal events is the wing collar, also known as the winged or wingtip, belongs among the minimalist collars because its points are quite small. The tips stand up and are directed horizontally so they resemble the open wings of a bird. This collar is most often worn with a bow tie and is actually supposed to be reserved for white tie events, though some men today enjoy its vintage look with a tuxedo. You may also see the wing collar worn by valets or butlers with a black neck tie in period pieces such as Jeeves and Wooster.

Other Specialty Collars

1. The One-Piece Collar

Known as the Hollywood or Cooper collar because it was famously worn by Gary Cooper, the one-piece collar is rare in ready-to-wear shirts. Usually, a shirt collar is constructed separately from the rest of the shirt. A one-piece collar, however, is made from the same piece as the shirt placket, which reinforces it and enables it to stand upright; it also requires tailoring skill to construct. Because of its structure the one-piece collar is tall and has an incredible collar roll, so fans of that look should seek it out. A possible shortcoming of the one-piece is that the points tend to float up or escape from under the lapels of a sport coat if the shirt is worn with the top button open. With a tie, there are no such issues.

2. The Pajama Collar

The collar commonly seen on pajama tops-flat and divided into two parts, resembling a notch lapel on a jacket-is known variously as a pajama collar, Cuban collar, or bowling collar. The look is definitely casual, for warm weather and most commonly seen with short sleeves including on Hawaiian "Aloha" shirts. However, they are mentioned here because they've recently made an appearance on long-sleeved shirts worn with tailoring. In some versions the top part of the collar is the longer than the bottom, but it can also be the other way around. The common aspect is that the collar is large, divided, and lays flat.

Conclusion

Various menswear brands have special proprietary names for their collar styles, like the Varsity (Paul Fredrick), the Roma spread (Proper Cloth) or the Martus (the now defunct Welch & Margetson). Whatever the names, these are essentially variants of one of the collar types discussed above, and once that you know the different permutations you can identify the features in any collar. You may start with a more conservative style for work but then you'll experiment until you find the ideal collar for your face shape and individual taste. I started with the typical American point collar then went with a radical cutaway with an eye toward Italian style. Eventually, I realized this didn't work well with a tie or my rounder face shape. Now, I'm wearing moderate spread collars with collar roll and long points. Whether I stick with this for the rest of my life is yet undetermined. So, where are you in the process of trying shirt collars? What's your favorite? Share in the Comments below.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Shirt Collar Styles: A Complete Guide - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Within the framework of a standard men's dress shirt, many variations can exist; there are differences in fit, cuff style, buttons, and so on. But what of the collar? Read on to discover the many variations. If you're in North America, the first dress shirts you bought probably had some kind of point collar; in Britain and mainland Europe, you likely bought spread collars.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Pad Stitch or Feather Stitch a Suit Coat Lapel

# data[].attributes.body
The difference between bespoke & Ready to wear clothing.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Recently, we showed you the difference between a $100 vs. $1,000 suit. Today's post continues in that fashion and highlights the main differences between a $500 custom suit and a $5000 bespoke suit. We share secrets and quality hallmarks so you will get the best value for your money, no matter how much you spend.
Video
For this guide, it is essential to watch the videos, because I show fit issues that cannot be shown in pictures alone.

Most men assume custom is custom and that a $500 online custom suit can fit just as well as a $5,000 suit - or that's the theory at least.

In my experience even an inexpensive custom suit can look great when you stand still but it often looks terrible and feels uncomfortable once you try to walk, sit, or move like a regular person.

For example, I had a bad suit and when I just wanted to eat with my right hand, it pulled back on my left shoulder, the collar gapped and my right arm was restricted because the sleeves were too tight. Everything was uncomfortable but it was a custom suit that used my measurements.

$500 custom suits have become very popular in the last few years because of online supply chain management. It's very easy to order something online with just your measurements and receive something in the mail four weeks after. On the other hand, a traditional bespoke suit costs a lot more and takes longer to produce. So what's the difference?

Order Process

$5000 Bespoke Suit

If you commission something at a custom or bespoke tailor, that means it's an in-person relationship - you go there, they measure you, they look at how you move. They have a very educated eye, they can see right away that you have a sloping shoulder, a bigger thigh, and they confirm their assumptions, what they see, they take with their measurements

Once you've picked out all the fabric, the trimmings, and the lining, the tailor can start to work on your suit. But he doesn't just create it, he has a loosely fitting garment for a first fitting, a second fitting, and a third fitting. These fittings ensure that you get a great fit and that you don't have bad surprises once you put on the garment and you can't make changes anymore. Depending on the tailor you choose, it can take anywhere from one month to one year to get your suit, as it also depends on how many tailors they have on, and how much time they have, and how many orders they have to process.

You can get bespoke suits for as little as $1500 to $2000, and it's the same process as it is for $5000 suits. The difference is with the $5000 suit you also get expert style advice. Usually these high-end bespoke tailors are well-known and revered for their taste and style, and that's part of what you buy. Because you're the customer, you don't have to do anything.

The True Cost Of Bespoke = Time + Travel + Suit Cost

Unless you're 100% happy with the suit, you don't have to accept it. Bespoke suits are very popular; they come from Savile Row or from Naples, and so a lot of men travel to those destinations to have a suit made for them. The problem is that that's an additional cost, and it can cause a lot of pain in the process to get it right, especially if more fittings are needed.

So keep that into consideration when you decide to work with a tailor who is not in your city.

$500 Custom Suit

With a $500 custom suite, you usually have to measure yourself - especially if you do it online - and there's no personal relationship. Sure, you may be able to ask questions or send an email, but at the end of the day, you have to find an untrained friend or acquaintance that can measure you and you have to rely on their videos to work.

They will sometimes also promise that if you just send in a picture with a credit card that you hold up their algorithm will determine the size. However, in my experience, it never works, simply because it's too far off.

Big department stores sometimes offer a 3D measurement technique, and while that sounds good in theory, it never really works in practice because the results are not 100% accurate. A human eye and an understanding of what a person needs is just not something that you can translate into a machine measurement. The turnaround time for these suits is usually 4-8 weeks because they're factory made. Usually, they're sewn together in Asia because it's less expensive.

All you do is take your measurements, put them on their system, choose the fabric, and you get a suit back. No fittings involved and no real trained tailor with an experienced eye that can guide you and help you - and that's why you pay a lower price. If you have an unusual body shape or strong, sloping shoulders that are different from one side to the other, the $500 custom suit can be very difficult to accommodate whereas a $5000 bespoke suit easily can do that because the tailor can look at you, and with the fittings, adjust so it looks perfect on you.

Fit & Pattern

$5000 Bespoke Suit

A $5000 is based on a paper pattern that is unique to you, that is made from scratch just for you, and it will really show in the final end result and fit. Not only will it look great, but you will also be comfortable, you can move around, you can eat, you can ask for a cab, and everything stays in place and looks good.

$500 Custom Suit

A $500 custom suit has a made to measure pattern. If you want to learn more about the term, watch the video here. What happens is that a standard pattern is used and then modified with your measurements, so it supposedly fits you better. The entire process of the pattern making is computer processed, and it's based on just the measurements - so if the measurements are off, the entire thing will be off. Oftentimes, these suits are very slim and they look great when you stand, but as we saw before, andas you can see here, it's really terrible when it's too tight and you can't move in your suit because it's so uncomfortable.

Construction

Basically, you can have a suit with a glued interlining, a sewn interlining, and something that is a mix between the two. To learn more about the differences, please check out our video between a $1000 and a $100 suit.

$5000 Bespoke Suit

Usually fully canvassed and you can even decide if you want a stiffer canvas or a soft one.

$500 Custom Suit

Usually either have a glued interlining or a partially sewn interlining but usually never have fully sewn interlining.

Details

$5000 Bespoke Suit

Now, when it comes to details, a $5000 suit has more handwork. You can see that on the buttonhole, it's handmade, looks very nice, the edges are nicely rounded even on the sleeves and the linings, and the little details on the inside really show you that it's a quality garment. Moreover, a $5000 suit is usually padded by hand and when you flip open your lapel, you can see irregular stitches made by hand. In this case, it shows that there is soft interlining so it's very comfortable and feels more like a sweater.

$500 Custom Suit

On the other hand, a $500 suit will not have those hallmarks. Even if it's a full or half canvas construction, it's machine made and it lacks the sophistication. The same is true for things like the pick stitching, which is done by hand, they're very subtle on a bespoke garment, you can see it along the edges and for a $500 custom suit, it's usually a machine made stitch, that is made to look like a hand stitch but isn't.

Years ago, only bespoke garments had surgeon cuffs, which means that you could open the buttonholes on your jacket. Today, online custom makers have copied that feature, and so it's no longer a way to determine whether you have a quality garment or an inexpensive, factory-made garment from China.

Choice of Fabric

An inexpensive or cheap suit will only have a very limited bandwidth. Usually, they're made in Asia, even if they have big names on that or India. They're usually thin, flimsy, and just the usual business colors - gray, navy, with some patterns. On the other hand, a bespoke tailor will usually be able to offer any fabric that you could want; they may even have vintage fabrics, a Solaro, a Fresco, really unusual things that make your suits special and ideally suited to the environment you'll be in.

CONCLUSION

So at the end of the day, you really get what you pay for. A $5000 bespoke suit gives you a great fabric choice, a superior fit, a personal experience on a trained tailor's eye, on the other hand, $500 custom suit is much cheaper, costs a fraction of the price but you'll usually have to compromise on fit. It's often not as comfortable, the fabric choice is limited, and the details are limited as well. So you simply have to decide what works best for you. That being said, I have a mix of everything in my closet, I have some ready to wear items, I've some made to measure items and some bespoke items. It's just important to be aware that a $500 custom suit is not the same as a $5000 bespoke suit.

If you enjoyed this video, make sure to check out our other videos about clothing and the best way to do it is to sign up thru our email list, here.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
500 Dollar Custom Suit Vs. 5,000 Dollar Bespoke Suit - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Recently, we showed you the difference between a $100 vs. $1,000 suit. Today's post continues in that fashion and highlights the main differences between a $500 custom suit and a $5000 bespoke suit. We share secrets and quality hallmarks so you will get the best value for your money, no matter how much you spend.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Bespoke tailoring is the pinnacle of men's attire in terms of customization, time commitment, and cost. In today's article, our resident expert in bespoke tailoring and author of the influential The Gentleman book, Bernhard Roetzel, will share the basics of why bespoke is worth the money and how to get started.

Bespoke Tailoring Basics

The term "bespoke" is often abused not just by the clothing industry, but many other industries as well. Since the term conveys the highest level of quality in terms of material and construction, it is coveted for marketing purposes in ways that have diluted the meaning of "bespoke" over time. Let's start with the proper definition of bespoke tailoring so that you know the real thing when you see it.

What is Bespoke Tailoring?

Bespoke tailoring is a traditional way of making clothes by hand on the basis of an individual pattern. A pattern is the construction plan for the different parts of a garment created with body measurements, which take into consideration the unsymmetrical shape of the human form. This means that a tailor will measure the circumference of the chest, the waist, the back, and the seat, as well as the length and circumference of both legs and arms. He will also find the exact position for the armholes and the degree of slope of the shoulders. In addition, he or she will check the front and the side balance, meaning he will notice whether the customer is bent forward, whether he has a very upright position or a very rounded back.

All these measurements and observations of peculiarities of the figure (that everyone has) will be used to draw the pattern of the garment which is usually started by drawing a vertical line on a piece of brown paper. This vertical line represents the back seam of the jacket. This line will be slightly curved to follow the shape of the customer's back from his neck down to his seat. The opening sequence of the movie The Tailor of Panama shows how a tailor drafts a pattern; it is worth watching this film just to see that.

Based on the abuse of the term bespoke, how can you be sure an offering is proper bespoke tailoring? It's not unusual that companies will offer "custom" clothing or even outright sell bespoke clothes that are in fact made-to-measure. A real bespoke tailor will usually make his clothes in a workshop that is located on his premises, and you will very likely work directly with the tailor doing the work. Every true bespoke tailor will be happy to show you where his clothes are made, and he should demonstrate a thorough knowledge of his craft. Be careful if a producer doesn't allow visitors in his workshop, his facilities are far away, or if someone other than the tailor manages client interactions and measurements.

What is the Difference Between Bespoke and Made-To-Measure?

Made-to-measure clothes (which you will see referred to as "MTM") are similar to bespoke clothes because they are also made individually according to the customer's measurements. However, instead of creating a pattern from scratch, a shortcut is taken by altering an existing ready-to-wear pattern. In many cases, the result will be satisfactory because, in theory, it is possible to adapt an existing pattern to the most common irregularities of the figure. More affordable MTM clothes are made in factories like ready-to-wear garments but some companies make MTM clothes by hand. Even a handmade MTM product is not the same as a bespoke garment because an MTM suit is created by adapting an existing suit model to the figure. This means that the MTM suit will look like the suit that a designer has created for the MTM brand. A bespoke garment will be designed exclusively for one person by the tailor and the customer, and all details can be changed according to the buyer's taste.

Sometimes shop assistants try to pass off an MTM product as a bespoke garment, though not necessarily with bad intentions. Shop assistants may not be aware of the differences, but one quick question will easily help you distinguish the pretenders from the real bespoke makers: ask for fittings. Bespoke tailors will test the fit of the garment at fittings several times, while no fittings are performed by MTM companies. They simply take the measurements and then deliver the final garment based on those measurements.

Why Choose Bespoke Tailoring?

There is no rational reason to order bespoke clothes because most of us can find clothes off the rack or MTM that fit relatively well. Some men prefer vintage clothes that were once made for someone else but may fit well. The best reason for bespoke clothes is that is great fun and also exciting to have something made by hand for oneself. It is less a luxury but rather a unique way to experience an old craft that has been part of our culture since the middle ages. Having something made by a bespoke tailor is like commissioning a chest of drawers from a carpenter or ordering cufflinks from a jeweler. It is simply a wonderful experience that most men who love clothes will enjoy. Finally, it is an opportunity to own something that is designed and created just for you. You'll never run into another man wearing the same piece!

The majority of men consider bespoke tailoring as something totally out of the question for themselves. Even those whose interest in clothing and style goes beyond the average degree might not consider bespoke tailoring. The main reason is probably the cost of bespoke clothes. But why are men with the means to afford bespoke clothes hesitant? I believe that men are scared of having to make decisions and choices about a product that is not visible or tangible. That is why made-to-measure clothes are so popular. You get a good idea of the final result before you commit because in most cases finished garments are on display and you are able to try on sample garments. Another rather safe option are bespoke suits from well-known tailoring houses with a clearly defined look. If you order a Cifonelli suit you will end up with something very similar to what you see in their marketing images; it will be adapted to your figure but clearly cut along well-known lines. The same applies to suits from most tailors in Italy or Savile Row. But is this really what bespoke tailoring is about? Is it not about getting something really individual? It is indeed. But most men order bespoke suits for businesswear, only very few want something eccentric or theatrical. This is why most bespoke suits look very classical.
The PROs and CONs of Bespoke Clothing

PRO Bespoke clothing is fitted by the tailor at least twice so that the final garment is altered at each step to fit your figure better.

CON Bespoke clothing necessitates two fittings, which requires the buyer to personally be at the tailor's workshop on three occasions; since bespoke work takes time, this could mean staying near the tailor for weeks or making multiple trips to the workshop.

PRO Clothes made by a traditionally trained tailor are cut and sewn by hand which results in a better and more comfortable fit.

CON The quality of the handwork is not always the same because some tailors hand out work to other craftsmen to save time. And sometimes these craftsmen or the tailor himself will be in a rush which can result in poor quality.

PRO If all goes as it should, a bespoke suit is the best you can get in terms of individuality and handmade quality.

CON It is hard to determine how good the result will be if you try a tailor for the first time unless you have a trustworthy recommendation.

PRO The possibilities of a good bespoke tailor are almost limitless regarding style, shape, and fit.

CON You need to know exactly what you want and you must be able to communicate your wishes. Misunderstandings occur frequently which can lead to great disappointments and loss of time.

Getting Started with Bespoke Tailoring

Step One: Choose Your Garment

First of all, you should make up your mind about what the desired garment should look like. Most men will opt to have a suit made, but you can also choose a single jacket, an overcoat, or a pair of pants if you have something special in mind. The more someone knows about his own taste and preferences, the easier the choice will be. Consider all the details you would like - the cut, the fabric, the structure of the garment, etc.

Step Two: Choose Your Style

In most cases, men either like English style or some sort of Italian style. For more detail on how the different bespoke styles are defined, please take a look at our History of Bespoke Tailoring: Then and Now guide for more information. That being said, creating a bespoke garment with a tailor should be about getting what YOU want. If your tastes line up neatly with the English or the Italian styles, then working with a tailor that favors that style makes sense.

In general, it is very important to know what you want and communicate clearly. The more information the tailor gets, the better, provided he is capable and willing to adapt to your wishes. In many cases, tailors will nod while you speak but will produce a garment at the first fitting which is very different from what you expected. If you are not able or willing to describe your wishes precisely you should use a tailor that is known to make garments in a style that you like.

Step Three: Define Your Budget

Just because you are having a bespoke garment made does not mean that you must have an endless amount of cash. Nevertheless, bespoke clothes made in the traditional way are always more expensive than any other type of clothes. You must make up your mind if you really want to spend the money and the time on top. The cost of travel can be huge over the years unless you can do the fitting on business trips that are paid for by your employer. A local tailor may be less prestigious than having one in Savile Row but he may be just as good and you will save a lot of money and time.

Step Four: Choose Your Tailor

Once you have made up your mind about the style you want, you could then look at tailors from London or Italian towns like Milan, Rome, Florence, Bergamo or Naples. Many tailors can be found on the Internet, for instance on Instagram. But what do you do if the tailor who makes the suits you like best can be found in Verona, Italy while you live in Oklahoma, Arkansas, California or New York City? Or any other part of the world but not anywhere near Italy or Europe? Bespoke tailors can be found almost in every country and most are either influenced by English or Italian tailoring.

A friend of mine has worn suits made Kiton and Attolini for 25 years until he decided to give bespoke tailoring a try. When he asked me to recommend a tailor I named two or three companies from Naples and he finally ended up with Gennaro Solito. Today he is very happy with this choice. This case was easy because we both knew what style my friend prefers. Many men don't have such a clear preference.

Communication is very important during the whole process of bespoke tailoring. Even if someone speaks the same language as the tailor he may find that it is not easy to express precisely what he wants. Even more so when you deal with tailors who speak another language that you either do not speak at all or only to some degree. Most tailors will speak at least some English. So be prepared to bring images of sample garments to help you explain your wishes. Or bring a translator who knows about tailoring, unless you are prepared to hand yourself over completely to a tailor who's style you like or who was recommended to you.

Step Five: The Bespoke Tailoring Process

The First Fitting

Most bespoke tailors will do two fittings; very few will do only one fitting if their existing patterns works well. The fitting gives the tailor and the customer the chance to see how the garment is developing and what additional alterations need to be made. At the first fitting, pockets are usually not cut in the cloth yet but darts usually are. No buttonholes are made and very often the sleeves will still be missing. Continental European tailors will do the fitting with no sleeves or only one sleeve while English tailors usually do it with both sleeves.

Tailors in Germany, Austria, and countries of middle Europe will usually open the shoulder seam in order to pin it together following the shape of the body. English tailors do this rarely and only if really necessary. The tailor will mainly check proportions and balance while the customer wants to see if the tailor is on the right track; the garment could be changed fairly radically at this stage.

The first fitting is in fact meant for the tailor and not for the customer. Nevertheless, the customer will be eager to see the garment at this rough stage because up to the moment when he slips into it he has no idea whether the tailor can deliver what he wants. In very rare cases the customer realizes at this stage that he has made a wrong decision by ordering a double-breasted garment. It is possible to do single breasted instead at this stage. Even the opposite is possibly provided that new front pieces are made with additional cloth. The pants are made with a linen waistband which will be replaced by the waistband made of the chosen cloth after the fitting. The trousers usually have no buttons or hooks at this stage, the tailor will fasten them with a needle.

The Second Fitting

After the first fitting, the garment will be taken apart. The cutter will then improve the cut either by making small improvements here and there or by recutting the jacket in a more fundamental way. Usually, only minor changes are necessary like changing the width of shoulders, tightening the waist or correcting the overall length. Pockets will now be cut while the buttonholes will still not be cut open. This is important otherwise adjustments of the balance could lead to the buttons on the front not matching the buttonhole. The lining will now be added and trousers will usually be finished for the second fitting with buttons, hooks and the fly.

At the second fitting sleeves will be added if they had not been part of the first fitting. At the second fitting, the garment has reached a very advanced stage. Fundamental changes would now be very time-consuming because the lining would have to be removed. Nevertheless, it is possible to do alterations but at this stage tailor and customer should both have the same idea of the direction they want to take with the suit. Tailors in Savile Row will have finished the pants for the second fitting if the first fitting went well. Tailors from the continental European tradition will finish the pants after the second fitting.

Step Six: Taking Delivery of Your Bespoke Garment

It will take weeks or even months to finish the suit depending on the amount of work that the tailor has to complete. Finishing is very time consuming because a lot of very precise stitching is required, such as hand sewing the lining. All buttons holes need to be finished by hand including those of the fly if it is not made with a zip.

Finishing also includes the final pressing. Tailors who produce for remote customers will very often deliver the finished garment in a box but usually, tailors are more happy to see the suit on the customer one more time. The finished suit may need small alterations despite the second fitting. It happens rather frequently that the length of sleeves or pants is not correct which is no big deal if the customer calls personally to collect the suit but rather annoying when he lives 5000 km away.

Conclusion

The key to successful bespoke tailoring is to know what you want and communicate it well. It's best to wait to engage a bespoke tailor if you are not sure what you want. Don't order something if you are not sure if the tailor understands or if you don't really like him. Working with a tailor that you are not comfortable with is not enjoyable.

It is reasonable to expect a lot after laying out many thousands of dollars, but don't forget that bespoke tailors cannot work wonders. They are craftsmen but they are not magicians. Many factors will influence the final product, such as the material you chose, your posture, and the degree of experience the tailor has. The more you learn about bespoke tailoring, the easier and more enjoyable the process will be!

What bespoke garments have you had made? What is on your bespoke wishlist?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Bespoke Tailoring Basics - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Bespoke tailoring is the pinnacle of men's attire in terms of customization, time commitment, and cost. In today's article, our resident expert in bespoke tailoring and author of the influential The Gentleman book, Bernhard Roetzel, will share the basics of why bespoke is worth the money and how to get started.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Before we get into the specifics of French cuffs, let's do a brief overview of shirt cuff styles.

Shirt Cuff Styles

Barrel Cuffs

First, button cuffs also called barrel cuffs. They've got buttonholes on one side of the cuff and buttons on the other. Anywhere from 1 to 3 buttons or sometimes more. Although one to two buttons is standard just so the fit of the cuff can be adjusted.

Barrel cuffs are the everyday choice for most men. And with a variety of button styles and cuff shapes they provide some versatile options while still being practical.

Link Cuffs

Link cuffs have holes on both sides of the cuff and as you might imagine are meant to be closed with links as opposed to buttons.

Two Principal Types Of Link Cuffs

Single Cuffs

Single cuffs which are just one layer of fabric fastened together with a link are standard for the white tie dress code and are also acceptable for black-tie if not necessarily standard at this point in time.

Double Cuffs

Double cuffs, are twice as long and are worn folded back upon themselves. They're the standard choice these days for the Black Tie dress code and are also a staple of business wear. If you haven't guessed it yet, double cuffs are more commonly known as French cuffs.

Other Kinds Of Cuffs

There are also a few other kinds of cuffs such as convertible cuffs which can be closed with either a button or a link depending on how you'd like to wear them.

And finally, you may also sometimes see a buttoned cuff that has excess fabric that can be turned back upon itself. This is known as a turn back cuff, cocktail cuff or sometimes a James Bond cuff.

French Cuffs Construction

As we already mentioned, French cuffs feature a length of fabric that is folded back upon itself and then fastened together with cufflinks, There are holes on both sides of the cuff going through all the layers of fabric. In other words, most French cuffs will typically have four holes in total to a cuff. Some manufacturers however will include more holes on the inner portion of the cuff for a total of six. This was originally done so that if there was wear or staining on the edge of a cuff a man could adjust it in the middle of the day without having to worry about looking at that staining.

One such manufacturer to offer these six holed French cuffs is the British retailer Charles Tyrwhitt. As I'm a frequent wearer of their shirts and many of them are in my closet I'll use these adjustable cuffs on jackets that I have where the sleeves aren't quite as long. That way the cuffs won't come out from beneath the sleeves of the jacket when I'm moving my arms around. Some shirt makers may also include a button on the inside of the French cuff to make things more secure and to make inserting links a little bit easier. This button on the inside of the cuff isn't to be confused however with a gauntlet button which is featured on some shirts a little bit further up the sleeve.

French cuffs can come in a number of shapes as can other cuff styles. Straight edges are most common for French cuffs but you'll also see rounded edges, angled edges or mitered edges.

Why Are They Called French Cuffs?

To answer that question, we have to touch on the history of the double cuff. Since at least the 16th century, upper-class individuals used elegant ribbons to prevent the ruffled ends of their shirt sleeves from coming open. This practice of adorning the wrists with some sort of decoration continued throughout the centuries. By the early 19th century, when the modern style of shirt was coming into its own, the ruffles had been replaced with cuffs that were secured with links.

Napoleon Bonaparte

As an example, Alexandre Dumas 1844 novel, The Count of Monte Cristo, features the character of Baron Danglars, a banker who wears ornate cufflinks with his double cuffed shirts. One apocryphal story also claims that French cuffs got their start when Napoleon ordered extra long sleeves for the shirts of the soldiers in his armies so that they could wipe their noses on the ends of their sleeve and then fold their cuffs back. There isn't any historical evidence to support this theory however so it's really just more of a fun story.

Whatever the case, the term French cuff didn't really come into popular usage until the style immigrated to America. In other words, it may just be that calling it a French cuff made it sound a little bit more exotic and special to American consumers. And from then on the term stuck and it's the one that's most commonly used today.

Style Guidelines For Wearing French Cuffs

The traditional view on this subject is that French cuffs should really only be worn in more formal scenarios, such as if you're wearing black tie or if you're wearing a conventional business suit and necktie. Some will even argue that wearing French cuffs with a blazer or sport coat is a stretch.

However, as standards of everyday dress have become more relaxed over the last half century and within the last 10 to 15 years, we've seen a resurgence in the interest in menswear. Some of these old style rules are able to be more freely bent now. So even though some traditionalists might give you a little bit of a questioning look, we believe that you can definitely pull off French cuffed shirts in more casual environments than just black tie or white collar business suits.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing French Cuffs with Fort Belvedere accessories

As just a few examples of this, fashion designer Tom Ford has worn French cuffs without a tie for a number of years now. And here at the Gentleman's Gazette, our founder Sven Raphael Schneider, estimates that he wears French cuffed shirts around 75% of the time. Also, I personally am a big fan of smart casual styled French cuffed shirts and almost all of my everyday shirts have French cuffs.

Typical ensemble for Preston Schlueter

I believe that wearing them with some fun cufflinks to provide a breezy vibe is a great way to show off a little bit of personal expression without being overpowering. In fact, a typical everyday ensemble for me is a French cuff shirt worn without anything over the top of it in addition to a pair of slacks and shoes and so on.

If you wanted to really go to the nth degree with this you could even emulate Italians who go for the sprezzatura style of dressing. They'll wear French cuffed shirts unfastened over the ends of their jacket sleeves. This is a little bit of an extreme look of course but we just wanted to make you aware that the look is out there, so French cuffs are definitely more versatile than they used to be.

Tips On Wearing French Cuffs

First of all, it's always a good idea to show at least a little bit of cuff at the end of whatever you're wearing. Be that a suit jacket, a blazer, a sport coat or even a sweater. You could shoot for keeping a quarter to a half inch of shirt sleeve visible at all times under these types of garments just to make sure that people know that you intentionally wore French cuffs. Keep in mind though, that if you're wearing something with more constricted sleeves such as a sweater you may want to orient the cuffs a little bit differently.

Kissing Style

Where French cuffs are usually worn in the so-called kissing style with the inside portions of both sides of the cuff together, they can also be configured more similarly to a barrel style and this is a convenient way to do it if you're wearing something like a sweater. And of course, there are a wide variety of different kinds of cufflinks to go with your French cuff shirts to suit the occasion. You should aim for a balance between your own sense of personal style and the formality of the environment you'll be in. There are all kinds of metal cufflinks of course, in materials like gold, silver, platinum and so on. And at the other end of the spectrum there are simple fabric knot styles of cufflinks also called silk knots that are definitely more casual.

CONCLUSION

To answer the question of when it's appropriate to wear French cuff shirts? The short and simple answer is almost whenever you want with a few key exceptions. As we said, just make sure that the French cuffs and their accompanying cufflinks don't overpower or dominate the outfit you're wearing. Use a little bit of discretion and you'll have a wide variety of situations where cufflinks and French cuff shirts are appropriate.
What's your personal opinion of French cuff shirts and how often do you wear them? Do you have any other styling tips related to French cuffs? Be sure to let us know in the comment section below.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Wearing French Cuffs on Shirts: How, When, & Why - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Before we get into the specifics of French cuffs, let's do a brief overview of shirt cuff styles. First, button cuffs also called barrel cuffs. They've got buttonholes on one side of the cuff and buttons on the other. Anywhere from 1 to 3 buttons or sometimes more.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Regardless of whether a shirt is worn with a coat, a tie or neither, the collar is the most important part. The collar's upside down "V" shape always points toward the wearer's face and lets it stand out. It is very important to have a collar that casts a positive light on its wearer. In order to achieve this, the collar should suit the wearer's face, have the right size and simply look sleek.

In this article, I will focus on collar stays and their ability to give a collar the right sleekness or smoothness. Sometimes, collar stays are also referred to as sticks, bones, knuckles, tabs or (in the UK) as collar stiffeners.

Basics About the Shirt Collar

Roughly speaking, there are two categories of collars: one with a glued interlining and one without. Both kinds of collars usually feature collar stays in order to create a nice, smooth collar. Some collar stays are sewn in and cannot be exchanged whilst others are removable. Only soft collars like a button down collar do not have any collar stays.

Many people say that "good shirts " should always have exchangeable collar stays. It is true that there are many shirts with inferior glued interlining that have non-removable collar stays. After laundering and ironing, this cheap collar is often deformed and the shirt becomes worthless. On the other hand, there exist excellent bespoke shirts with glued interlinings and sewn-in collar stays that last for years. Hence, it is not strictly necessary for a good shirt to have exchangeable collar stays.

That being said, many high quality shirts do feature exchangeable collar stays. In most cases they are made from plastic and are often flexible or flimsy. Hence, they are not ideal in order to achieve a neat looking collar-and chances are they will get lost in the

washing machine anyway. Luckily, there are numerous collar stays, available in all kinds of materials with prices ranging from $1 to well over $6000.

Collar Bones: Materials

Classic materials for collar stays are brass, sterling silver, 14Kt gold or mother of pearl. In addition to that, stainless steel, titanium, horn, precious wood or even ivory and diamonds are used to craft collar stays. These are generally sturdier than their plastic counterparts, and it usually does not matter if you forget to remove them before having them laundered; they should look just fine afterwards. However, collar stays made from wood or mother of pearl should definitely be removed before being laundered.

Metal collar stays are less flexible and heavier than their plastic counterparts. Personally, I like that because it gives the collar a sleeker look.

Size Does Matter for Collar Stays

It is often very difficult to find the right assortment of sizes for your different collars. Many times, collar stay sets are only available in two sizes-which is definitely not enough for me. Three different sizes are better, with four to five being ideal in my opinion.

When you have found your collar stays, you need a place to store them. A little jewellery box or a leather container should do it.

Within the last five years I have had ample opportunities to test different collar stays. Among them were some from Amazon and Ebay, brass and silver stays from Seven London and Charles Tyrwhitt, as well as mother of pearl stays from Roensberg.

Four years ago I coincidentally stumbled upon Stayclip. At that time, there were 4 reasons for me to buy Stayclips:

The collar stays were made out of metal.

They offered 4 different lengths: 2, 2.5, 2.75 and 3 inches.

The prices were extremely fair, especially considering the fact that I got 8 pairs of collar stays.

The way to store the stays on a metal clip seemed practical.

In all those years, I have always been entirely satisfied with Stayclip stays. They still look like new, despite constant use and storing them on a clip makes it easy to not lose them. I particularly enjoy the four different sizes because I can always find the right size for my collar. Moreover, Stayclip provides a monogramming service.

Similarly, Roensberg collar stays are also of high quality, however, they only come in three, smaller sizes and are considerably more expensive.

My brass collar stays show the usual dark discolorations and proved to be a little too flexible for me. Sterling silver and mother of pearl collar stays do not have any functional advantages over stainless steel or titanium and therefore do not justify the higher price.

Based on my experiences, I will keep using Stayclips and I recommend them because of their different sizes, durability and price. While on the subject of recommendations, I must say that I cannot recommend Wurkin stiffs.

But, as always, to each his own.

If you found this article helpful, please give it 5 star voting and share it on Facebook, Twitter etc. It only takes you seconds and helps us a lot. Thanks!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Regardless of whether a shirt is worn with a coat, a tie or neither, the collar is the most important part. The collar's upside down "V" shape always points toward the wearer's face and lets it stand out. It is very important to have a collar that casts a positive light on its wearer.

# data[].attributes.body
How to make Flap Pocket

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This is a guide for making flaps for pocket. How to Make a Flap by Nadia Goretti.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The majority of today's men wear ready-to-wear or made-to-measure clothes produced in factories. Only a very small minority of gentleman dress in bespoke clothes made by tailors, but 200 years ago every garment was made by hand. This article explains how clothes handmade by tailors have evolved from being an everyday product available in various price and quality categories to something exclusive and expensive.

A Brief History of Bespoke Tailoring

Before the advent of sewing machines in the 18th century, all clothes were cut and sewn by hand similar to the way modern-day bespoke tailors work. However, the desired fit was achieved in a way very different to our times. From the middle ages to the 18th-century, tailors created their patterns with methods that were their trade secret. They were not shared with apprentices until a master tailor handed over his business to someone who had bought it. Many more fittings than today were necessary. Nevertheless, the quality of the handwork was amazing and the fit often very close to the body.

19th century London must have been like one big tailor shop serving gentlemen from the whole Empire. The West End was crowded with bespoke tailors, shirtmakers and cloth merchants, huge numbers of coat makers, pant makers, vest makers and finishers worked directly from their poor and overcrowded homes in the east end. London was the capital of the first world at the time, and English style and British cloth were internationally considered to be the height of elegance. Even so, tailors prospered across in the world, and their products were available in almost every price bracket, as every man, woman, and child needed clothing. For the mass market, ready-to-wear clothes were not yet available in great numbers, and the poorest citizens often depended on the secondhand sale of worn clothing or clothing that was made at home. Department stores catered to the middle classes. Rich men's valets often received worn clothes from their employers as a gift or an incentive, some of which was then sold for extra income. In the countryside and the living quarters of the working class, tailors made clothes by hand at affordable prices using cheap cloth, and even then purchasing clothes was relatively expensive compared to the average income of a poor person. Very often these tailors got their main income from making clothes for bigger tailoring houses that had outsourced some of the work to external tailors.

Cutting Systems, Sewing Machines and the Birth of Ready-To-Wear Clothes

In the 18th century, tailors started to think about ways to reduce the number of fittings and so they started to create cutting systems. These systems, in combination with the invention of the sewing machine in 1790, changed the process of garment construction forever. By 1830, the first machine-based clothing manufacturer opened in France to supply uniforms to the French army, and civilian clothing manufacturers were soon to follow.

Ready-to-wear clothes were made in great numbers because military and civil uniforms likewise had to be made at low cost in huge numbers. The ready-to-wear industry applied their knowledge of making uniforms in different sizes to civilian clothes and managed to achieve a very good quality and fit in the late 19th century. Bespoke tailoring was still the first choice for anyone who could afford it and also for some who wanted it but couldn't afford it. The appeal of bespoke tailoring remained the same: each garment was unique in terms of style and fit to its owner.

Fusing Changed the Industry Forever

A fundamental difference between factory-made garments and the handmade bespoke product emerged when fusing became standard in the ready-to-wear industry in the 1960s. Fusing is a method that joins the interlining with the outer fabric using an adhesive. This adhesive is applied to the interlining. When heat and pressure are applied the adhesive melts and bonds the interlining to the outer fabric. Heat and pressure may come from an iron if you or from a machine. The latter is used by the industry. Fusing saved a lot of time and thus became standard procedure, though it initially resulted in a much stiffer garment. An interlining that is not fused is often termed "free-floating" because it is sewn to the outer fabric at the shoulder seam and with small stitches behind the lapels, which maintained a soft look and feel to the final garment.

Since the 1960s, bespoke tailors have used the term "fusing" in a condescending way to describe the difference between ready-to-wear and bespoke tailoring. The quality of fusing has improved dramatically and nowadays even fused lightweight suits are not necessarily stiff. In fact, fusing may sometimes create a suit that is softer and lighter than the suits that some tailors still produce using fairly heavy interlinings. Prejudice aside, the bespoke suit with handsewn interlinings can be shaped more precisely to the figure and the lapels will have the typical roll of the tailored suit.

Bespoke Tailoring Today

In the modern day, the craft of making clothes by hand appears to be a folly in the sense that the quality of RTW clothes and the availability of made-to-measure garments in all price levels seem to make the traditional tailor superfluous. Bespoke tailoring declined rapidly in volume with the rise of factory-made clothing, but a small coterie of high-end tailors were able to maintain their operations as the last stewards of the craft. Beginning in the 1970s, what remained of bespoke tailoring further declined as tastes in clothing became increasingly casual, lower prices increased the accessibility of clothing, and styles turned away from using traditional fabrics. In the 1980s it seemed that this craft wouldn't survive, but today the situation is different. It seems that more and more young men are interested in handmade clothes and some even want to learn the trade. Today, dressing in a classic way has found a new audience among men who want to look good while investing in a wardrobe that will stand the test of time. For those men, owning a bespoke tailored garment is still a wardrobe goal.

The Different Schools of Tailoring

Although tailors tend to stress that the tradition of their own country is very unique they do in fact work in a similar way no matter if they work in London, Vienna, Milan or New York City. The basic process of cutting and making garments by hand hasn't changed much since the beginning of the 20th century. A few machines have been added to the workrooms but it still takes around 60 hours to make a suit.

London Tailoring vs. "La Sartoria Italiana"

From the 18 th century until the 1920s, English tailoring was considered to be top quality, just as French fashion led in the world of women's wear. Nevertheless, tailoring was a very local business with craftsmen offering their particular skills in each country. Every capital of the western world was home to hundreds of tailors and dozens of firms that offered premium quality. After the second World War, the slow demise of tailoring led to a concentration of men's tailoring in London and Italy. You could still find good bespoke tailors in any European capital and most American cities but with regards to style, the world of menswear became a matter of choosing between English or Italian provenance.

The differences that we see between a suit from London and from Naples are rather the result of different approaches about how a man looks best than the result of different methods. A very popular explanation says that London tailoring is influenced by military tailoring, which results in a more waisted silhouette and pronounced shoulders. Tailors in Italy, on the other hand, are credited with soft tailoring and more flattering shapes. Both assumptions are not correct because London tailors always offered very diverse silhouettes and Italy is home to very different styles too.

The biggest difference between London tailoring and Italian tailoring, in general, is that a British tailor will usually want to create a suit that gives the wearer the appearance of a gentleman from the British upper classes. An Italian tailor strives for an attractive appearance that is not based on a class association; it is more about appearances for appearance's sake. The Italian male is typically very conscious of his looks; he doesn't want to look like an Earl, he wants to look like an attractive man.

Thus, Italian tailors focus on creating a cut that flatters the figure with a pronounced waist, a rather short jacket and narrow trousers creating the impression of a slim figure with long legs. Speaking of Italian tailoring in general terms is nevertheless difficult because almost every region offers a slightly different silhouette.

Tailors in the North usually cut a jacket with squarer shoulders, similar to tailors in Rome. Tailors from Southern Italy prefer a natural shoulder with a set-in sleeve similar to the sleeve of a shirt. In general, Italian tailors tend to make a very soft garment with a lot of attention to handwork. Italian customers appreciate good tailoring more than any other nationality on the whole.

Austrian and German Tailoring

Observers from English speaking countries tend to assume that the tailoring traditions of Germany and Austria are similar, which is not the case at all. Despite sharing the same language Germany and Austria are two separate and different nations since the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. The Austro-Hungarian Empire was a twin monarchy consisting of Austria and Hungary. Both kingdoms were home to several nationalities. Tailoring in Vienna was strongly influenced by Czech and Hungarian tailors and by tailors from Triest, while Berlin had developed into the center of German tailoring since the foundation of the Empire in 1871.

Tailors from England, France, and Italy love to refer to the 1930s as the golden age of men's tailoring, which is not possible in Germany. When Hitler seized power after he was elected Chancellor in 1933 the Nazis wanted to drive out foreign influences from public culture, but they didn't really succeed. Until the start of the war in 1939, products from all around the world were still popular in Germany and tailors still used a lot of fabrics from England. Despite many Germans being Anglophiles, Great Britain was seen as the major rival and enemy in Europe since the end of WW1 so dressing the English way was not all that popular. The cut of the suits from the 1930s was similar to those made by tailors in most European countries. The lounge suit had become very popular while older gentleman still liked to wear frock coats for formal occasions.

Viennese tailoring was very popular with the rich and famous in the 1930s. German movie stars like to be dressed by Knize in Vienna, the most famous and expensive tailoring house at the time. Marlene Dietrich used to have her famous tailcoats, lounge suits and overcoats made by Knize too. When the Jewish owner fled Austria and reopened in New York City, Dietrich was eager to support him and encouraged friends to follow suit. Austrian society had changed on the outside after the abolition of Monarchy in 1918, the court and his rules of dresses no longer dictated menswear. Fashion became more egalitarian but men from the upper and middle classes still dressed elegantly in lounge suits during daytime and dinner suits in the evening. Morning coats were worn for formal occasions during the day and evening tails for dances and dinners.

Austrian tailors still like to hint at the traditions of their Monarchy although it has not existed for nearly 100 years. In fact, it is difficult to spot the differences between suits made in Austria or Germany because of the dominating Italian influence and the fact that most tailors of both countries use a German cutting system taught by M. Müller & Son in Munich. Only very few tailors from Vienna still keep up a tradition that includes a very rounded, natural shoulder with minimal padding. They will tailor very softly in general with a slightly lower notch and lapels that are narrower than those from southern Italy. Still, these differences will only be perceived by an experienced observer and only a very small number of gentlemen will appreciate the traditional Viennese look and make.

American Tailoring

America has been a world of its own with a huge independent textile and fashion sector until manufacturers started using factories in South America and Asia to cut costs. Tailors were inspired by Savile Row or made suits the Italian way that they had learned at home or from their Italian born fathers or grandfathers. The most famous All American tailoring school is the Ivy League Style which was created and cultivated by of a huge number of tailors at the East Coast. These tailors have mostly gone out of business.

Bespoke Tailoring Today: From Trendy to Timeless

Though the industry of bespoke tailoring has declined to a mere fraction of what it used to be, the remaining tailors are the keepers of a venerated craft. In a world in which so few things are truly unique, bespoke tailoring offers the dapper man a chance to own not only something that fits him perfectly but also something that is exclusive unto his wardrobe alone. It's a way to reproduce the elegant styles and patterns of the past which are impractical for mass manufacturers to use.

Today tailors stress that their clothes are timeless. In the early 20 th century, tailors insisted that they made the most fashionable garments, which was indeed true. Only when the ready-to-wear industry took over trend-driven clothing did tailors begin to emphasize that their clothes were classic and long-lasting. They simply cannot compete with the designers of the menswear industry, but the menswear industry is likewise incapable of competing with the superior fit and construction of the work of a bespoke tailor.

Because of the cost associated with a bespoke garment, tailoring is only accessible to those willing to travel to a tailor or to a few online tailors that create true paper patterns from scratch. Today, tailoring has been changed by the internet, a thriving market for fast fashion, and the desire of many men to own quantity over quality. The question still lingers: will the bespoke industry survive? The industry is comprised mostly of aging tailors on the verge of retirement, but new tailors are taking up the trade and opening bespoke ateliers, though mostly in Europe. Not only that, but the increasing interest in quality, handcrafted goods is bringing new attention and appeal to a heritage industry.

Conclusion

Bespoke tailoring is all about individually made clothes. Nevertheless, tailors are strongly influenced by traditions, history and general fashion. And despite the seemingly endless possibilities of style and fabric most men order very conventional clothes from their tailors. Studying the history of tailoring and analyzing the style of the different tailoring schools helps you to find out what is right for yourself. Stay tuned for an upcoming article on Bespoke Tailoring Basics, a guide to bespoke tailoring for beginners.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The History of Bespoke Tailoring: Now and Then - Gentleman's Gazette

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The majority of today's men wear ready-to-wear or made-to-measure clothes produced in factories. Only a very small minority of gentleman dress in bespoke clothes made by tailors, but 200 years ago every garment was made by hand.

# data[].attributes.headline
Constructing Plait Pockets in a Frock Coat

# data[].attributes.subject
Constructing Plait Pockets in a Frock Coat

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Plait or pleat pockets in a frock coat are often misunderstood, construction wise, and can be tricky to do correctly. Studying an original coat in my collection, I have reconstructed the methods of making these pockets, and share them for your edification. Your coat should be sewn together at the sidebody and forepart, and skirt seams. The back should not yet be attached before beginning.

First, you'll need to decide whether you want interior or exterior plait pockets. Exterior pockets are a lot easier to reach into, being accessible from the outside. However, you leave the pocket contents more available to pickpockets. On the other hand, interior pockets will protect your pocket's contents from those bandits, but are a lot harder to get into. You'll most likely want to take the coat off before accessing the pockets.

Please note that this is an excerpt from my Double Breasted Frock Coat Workshop. If you enjoy this tutorial, please consider registering today, to gain access to almost 300 pages of step-by-step instruction.

Drafting

Drafting the plait pockets is the same for both interior and exterior pockets. The only difference is that the interior pockets are cut on a fold, while the exterior pockets must be cut separate, with a seam allowance added.

Begin by drawing a vertical line 16 inches long. At the bottom, square out another line 7 to 8 inches wide. These numbers are both variable according to how long your skirt is, and how large your coat is, but this is a good starting point.

At the top, draw a line square across that is about 1/2″ smaller than the bottom width. Connect the two end points with another line.

At the top, extend the first line about 1 inch, and redraw the top line at an angle.

At the top and right sides, add curves to each. This will add fullness to the pockets, and allow them to hang freely without affecting the drape of the skirts.

Again at the top, add a dart to the pattern. This should be about 1/3 away from the left construction line. The construction line of the dart comes down vertically about 4 inches. The total width is 1/2 inch. Finally, redraw the top seam so that the seams of the dart agree in length. If you are doing an exterior pocket, add a 1/4 inch seam allowance on the left side. If doing an interior pocket, the original construction line will be placed on the fold when cutting out the pocketing fabric.

Exterior Pocket Construction

We'll begin with the construction of the exterior plait pockets. Skip this section if you are doing exterior pockets. Begin by cutting out two pieces of polished cotton for each pocket bag. These are cut separate with the seam allowance you added when drafting. Make sure you mark the darts at the top in chalk, on both pieces.

Baste each dart closed, then stitch.

Press each dart to one side, and alternate the dart on the other half so that it is pressed in the other direction. This will help reduce bulk.

With right sides together, line the curved edge of the pocket up with the edge of the skirt, aligning each at the top. Baste firmly together.

Sew the seam with a 3/16 inch seam allowance. You want it to be slightly less than a quarter of an inch so that the seam will not be seen in the finished coat. Remove the basting stitches and press open the pocket bag.

Do the same with the other half of the pocket bag, sewing it right sides to the unfinished edge of the back skirt, again aligning at the top. Press open as you did for the other half.

Align the back and main skirts, right sides together, making sure that the pocket bags are lined up. Baste through all layers. It's very important that the edges of the wool layers are perfectly lined up. It's hard to tell, as you can't see both at once, so you'll need to rely on touch with your fingers.

Mark on the edge of the back seam 1 inch down from the top of the pocket, and again, 9 inches from the top. This marks the pocket opening, and where you do not want to sew (or else you'll close up the pocket).

Sew the back seam as described in the section Interior Plait Pockets. You'll want to have side body seam basted to the upper back seam before proceeding. The only changes are that you use a 5/16 seam allowance, and stop sewing at the marks. Sew the seam from 1 inch from the bottom, to the bottom mark, and from the top mark, to the top at the waist seam.

Next, baste the pocket halves together, and sew along the edge. At the bottom outer corner, you should curve the seam nicely. Sew from the top of the pocket all the way to the bottom, ending at the 5/16 seam on the wool body.

At both chalk marks indicating the top and bottom of the pocket mouth, tack each with a row of stitching. Start exactly at the seam line and ending just past the edge of the wool, on the pocket itself. This provides extra strength for the pocket, so that it doesn't tear as you use it.

At this point the pocket is complete, and just needs to be cross-stitched at the top, as explained in the last section.

Interior Plait Pockets

The interior plait pockets are a little more involved, construction wise. Follow these instructions for attaching the side body to the back if you are doing the exterior pockets, as well.
At the top, very carefully clip the skirt seam allowance, 3/16 inch from the edge of the center back seam. This will help reduce bulk in this area, as otherwise you can have 6 or 7 layers in this area, giving an unflattering look.

Now baste the upper halves of the back piece and side body together. These seams must be eased together so that no ripples show on either side. The fullness will appear on one side or the other, depending how deeply you drafted the curves on these pieces.

Then baste starting from the waist down to the bottom of the skirts.
The following pertains to the interior pockets only.
Cut a square of polished cotton twice as wide as the finished pocket pattern. Press it in half, right sides together, place your pattern along the fold, and form the darts on both sides, as explained in the exterior pocket section. You'll end up with two darts in each pocket, pressed in opposite directions. Also be sure to mark the curved edges.

Mark on each pocket halve, 9 inches down for the length of the pocket opening. Make a cut in one half of the pocket only at this point, ¼ inch deep. Press the seam allowance from this point to the top of the pocket back towards the wrong side. Repeat for the other pocket half, being sure to do the opposite. After pressing, tack the edges together by hand just below the cut, and all the way down to the bottom of the pocket.

Place one half of the coat right side down, and arrange it so that the back piece is facing wrong side up on top of the coat.

Place the pocket with the cut edge down onto the skirt assembly. The raw edges of the pocket should be aligned with the edges of the back skirt.

Baste the pocket down, working the curve of the pocket into a straight line. When basting the upper half of the pocket, above the cut, you want to move the bottom half of the pocket out of the way, so that it is not caught in the stitching.

You can flip the pocket over to make that this is the case.

Now sew a straight seam, starting from 1 inch from the bottom of the skirt, to the top of the 'step'.

This will bind all layers together, except for the upper half of the lower pocket layer, which you moved out of the way.

Remove the basting stitches from the pocket, and press the seam flat to set the stitches.

You can see how the now upper half of the pocket is still free to open.

Press the pocket back over a curved ham. The pocket has some shape to it due to the curved seam, so a ham is necessary.

Sew a tack 9 inches below the top of the pocket, just above the chalk mark you made. The tack should be just above where the cut was made, and extends from the edge of the pocket, to 1/8 away from the wool.

Make another tack at the top, about half an inch from the top. Pull the pocket slightly tight to reduce gaping in the finished pocket. These tacks are made while the pocket is still in position after pressing open.

Sew the pocket closed along the bottom edge, giving a slight curve to the stitches to make it easier to retrieve items.

Sewing the Side Body to Back - Applies to Both Pocket Styles

Sew the upper half of the side body to the back seam, making the little 'step' near the waist, and ending at the pocket, sewing all the way to the edge of the wool underneath.

Near the bottom of this seam, near the waist, make a small clip in the back piece, almost to the seam allowance. This will allow you to press the upper back seam open without issue.

Press the upper back seam from both sides to set the stitches, then using a tailors ham, press the seam open. Be sure to press this on a curved surface, otherwise you will completely ruin the coat. There is ease built into this seam, which if pressed on a flat surface, will disappear, giving you a very poorly fitted coat.

At the bottom one inch of the skirt, fold the lining out of the way, and sew the rest of the skirt closed. This will allow you to finish the lining more easily later on.

Finishing the Pockets - Both Styles

Now turn the coat to the right side, and baste the pleat closed. If you want a pressed pleat, now is the time to give it a good pressing over a ham. I have chose not to press mine, and will instead leave it to hang freely.

Turn to the inside of the coat, and baste the pocket across the top, just below the waist seam. You want the pocket to hang without affecting the drape of the skirts, hence the angled cut of the pocket tops.

Cross stitch the pockets to the waist seam, being sure not to let the stitches show through to the right side.

At this point, the pockets are completed, and you should remove all basting stitches from the pockets and the back lining, except for the outer edge near the waist that has not been sewn yet.

The Skirt Lining

If you constructed exterior pleat pockets, the lining is simply basted under along the back seam, and felled down. The following instructions pertain to the interior pleat pockets.

Fold under the back edge of the skirt lining, so that it overhangs the pocket by 1/8 of an inch. Baste carefully to the pocket, being sure not to accidentally close it up.

Baste the rest of the back lining down. At this point, you should lightly press the skirt lining at all folded edges.

At the back of the skirt lining, starting at the top, fell down the top half inch or so of lining, until you get to the top of the pocket.

Use a side stitch to secure the lining to the top pocket bag.

At the bottom of the pocket, continue felling until about two inches from the bottom of the skirt. This area will need to be finished later.

Please note that this is an excerpt from my Double Breasted Frock Coat Workshop. If you enjoy this tutorial, please consider registering today, to gain access to almost 300 pages of step-by-step instruction. If you have any questions regarding this tutorial, please post at my support forum. Thank you!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Constructing Plait Pockets in a Frock Coat

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Plait or pleat pockets in a frock coat are often misunderstood, construction wise, and can be tricky to do correctly. Studying an original coat in my collection, I have reconstructed the methods of making these pockets, and share them for your edification.

# data[].attributes.body
https://www.reiss.com/suit-guide/glossary/

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Tailoring Glossary - The Tailoring Guide

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
From Alfred Brown to zip flies, The Tailoring Glossary contains everything you need to know about the world of Reiss tailoring.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The first step in your suit creation is the initial consultation, during which you will select your cloth, lining and real horn buttons from our wide selection of beautiful options. All our cloths, linings and trimmings are supplied from world renowned merchants.

We will take around 40 measurements from your body, and carefully discuss your requirements so you can be assured we know exactly what you need from your suit.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
My Process. Desmond Merrion Bespoke Tailors | Men's And Women's Suit Tailors

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The first step in your suit creation is the initial consultation, during which you will select your cloth, lining and real horn buttons from our wide selection of beautiful options. All our cloths, linings and trimmings are supplied from world renowned merchants.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Ever wondered how your pockets are made? Well wonder no longer. Watch Joan put a jet pocket together in real time at Lakeland Skirts in Kendal. Made-to-measure fashion from the north of England. www.lakelandskirts.co.uk www.horsley.co.uk