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I returned, again and again to the MR website so that I could accurately reflect their brand in my report. I wanted it to be as authentic as possible and true to both brands.

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Use phone for fashion: 77% of Millennials and Gen Z use their phones to browse fashion and 68% use them to buy fashion.
Sustainability: “Environmental sustainability is important to these shoppers (Millennials & Gen Z). More than three-quarters (76.7%) say it is either very or quite important."

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Between them, Generation Z and millennials - broadly, shoppers in their late teens, twenties and thirties - attract endless attention, and represent fashion's consumers of both the present and future.
In this report, Drapers takes an in-depth look at how the two groups are changing, and how they feel about the fashion industry. What are the similarities between them, what are the differences, and where are the opportunities for brands designing and making clothes for these groups?

We also speak to a range of retailers about how they are creating propositions that appeal to these shoppers, and the feedback that they hear from them.

It is all too easy to become fixated on a certain age range, and younger shoppers are often the group of choice for retailers. They are, after all, the shoppers of the future, and brands that do not evolve alongside them are unlikely to survive long term. But while this report is aimed at delving into younger people's likes and dislikes, the aim is not to depict these shoppers as being more important than or even dramatically different to many of their older counterparts.

Many of the trends we observe in their changing behaviour are happening just as strongly for people over 40 as they are for those under. People's interests and tastes are rarely determined solely by their age, and Gen Z is no different.

But even with that in mind, it is interesting to watch a particular generation evolve, and determining what matters to them is still a worthwhile activity. Furthermore, much of the change we observe across all consumer groups is often driven by or more strongly represented among the young, whose strength of feeling about issues of the day can be greater than older generations.

One thing is clear, and that is the emergence of a more values-led, purpose-driven approach to fashion. Younger shoppers may not want to or are not yet able to pay more for ethically made items, but that doesn't mean they don't want them. In addition, the digital and multichannel shifts of the past two decades are not over yet. There is still plenty of work to do to meet those expectations.

Beyond the shifts in behaviour, it is heartening to see that younger shoppers are not disillusioned with fashion: most still see it as fun and inspiring, as well as a chance to express themselves, and they appreciate any brand attempting to keep up with them ethically. They appreciate even more those who are leading the way.

Having come of age during turbulent economic years and having never known life without the internet, they have little patience for rules and conventions that were designed for a different time. Gen Z and their older millennial brothers and sisters have the potential to make fashion an altogether better place to be: what brands need to do is exhibit a willingness to meet them there.

We hope you find the report useful. Please send any feedback or questions to rebecca.thomson@emap.com to help us continue improving our research into this group.

Rebecca Thomson, head of commercial content, Drapers

For the purposes of this report we define members of Generation Z as anyone born between 1995 and 2015, making the youngest four and the oldest 25. Millennials are those born between 1980 and 1995, and are roughly aged 26 to 38. We surveyed 2,000 consumers aged 18 to 38.

'Gen Z' has become just as much of a buzzword as 'millennial' did a few years ago, and is already synonymous with certain traits. If the headlines are to be believed, they are strident environmental activists, they are progressive, they are careful with money and they have short attention spans. But lumping such a broad, diverse group into one amorphous age bracket is a mistake.

Jonathan Reynolds, a retail and ecommerce expert at the University of Oxford says: "It's right to disaggregate Generation Z. We are wrong to use age definitions and put everyone into one age bracket. People have different contexts, motivations and there are different sub-groups within that demographic."

It is also easy to get swept away by the perceived newness of a fresh group of teenagers. But in many ways, Gen Z and millennials have similar patterns of behaviour to young people of previous generations.

To begin with, there is a larger, more mainstream group who watches what the Kardashians wear and is hooked on Love Island, and makes purchasing decisions that are driven by upcoming holidays and Saturday nights out. And there is also a much smaller, albeit articulate and vocal, more alternative group that is perhaps more progressive, and sometimes more controversial. This is best represented in 2019 by 16-year-old Swedish activist Greta Thunberg. Her emergence as a leader in this space is helped by the fact that anyone aged 25 or under is unlikely to remember the most significant events of the previous decade, such as 9/11 or the Iraq war. Terrorism was the defining issue as millennials entered adulthood ten years ago, but as this fades slightly in the collective memory, climate change is taking its place.

Reynolds says the activist group is the most interesting part of Gen Z, because they're exhibiting new kinds of behaviour. "They're not being influenced by big brands. They're very much a smaller subset of Generation Z but they're articulate and loud, so we hear a lot about them. And they probably have the brands more worried. If it grows, it's dangerous to brands because they often dont have the flexibility to shift."

What is different about Gen Z as a cohort, however, is they are the first group to have grown up with social media and related digital technologies, and this is creating new rules for how things get done. It has given them a new set of communication tools, which they are extremely adept at using, and which enables messages such as Greta's to spread faster and with more intensity than they might have a few years ago. The amplified impact and speed of change this has enabled means that Kylie Jenner is a billionaire by the age of 21, and global leaders are listening to Greta's every word.

In some ways, this is a re-labelling of trends that have gone before. What has changed, however, is access to information and virtual relationships.

Jonathan Reynolds, University of Oxford

Reynolds says any changes that do occur for this generation are tending to proliferate faster than they have in the past: "By and large, we have seen greater transparency for all those subsets than in previous generations because of technology and electronic word of mouth.

"In some ways, this is a re-labelling of trends that have gone before. What has changed, however, is access to information and virtual relationships."

But while Kylie Jenner and Greta Thunberg represent drastically divergent cultural trends, their followers are not necessarily different people. It is possible to be interested in celebrities while also being interested in sustainability; it is also possible to care about sustainability while engaging in unsustainable behaviours, partly because it is often simply not possible to make ethical consumption choices. Plus, younger shoppers do appear to want two very different things. "On the one hand, they're very idealistic," says Pamela Church-Gibson, the author of Fashion and Celebrity Culture. " But that is diametrically opposed to the fact we have got a lot of people who just want to buy cheap clothes online."

The other thing to note about Gen Z and Millennials is that they are growing in confidence. They are natural online communicators and their talent is being applied to topics other than sustainability - they are diverse, inclusive and they question norms. "What also strikes me about this group is its confidence," says Reynolds. "They're realistic, they're pragmatic and they engage in dialogue rather than protesting for the sake of it."

Contradictions

What is difficult, Reynolds says, is that some members of these generations want to shop with fully sustainable brands who are helping to change the status quo, but they also want immediacy and convenience in how they access any product. They want constant newness and immediate gratification, but they acknowledge the system that enables that is not environmentally feasible. "There is a contradiction - certain people are doing both things."

This means that, even as consumers lead this shift towards a more sustainable way of making and selling fashion, there may also need to be a concerted educational effort to ensure these young shoppers realise that this may mean some loss of convenience and increased effort from them; perhaps buying fewer, higher quality items per year may be necessary, and recycling clothes they are finished with is a must.

Reynolds says that for some, this is starting to translate into different ways of consuming. "My son, who is 23, is less concerned about ownership. The stuff he does have is very different and unusual - he places a premium on finding things that aren't very popular. That's a challenge for brands used to dealing with large chunks of the population."

Loyalty

While these trends play out, shoppers continue to interact day-to-day with the fashion industry. Hearteningly, our data shows that broadly, consumers appear to feel fairly positive about fashion. They report finding it fun and inspiring, and they see it as an opportunity for self expression.

Broadly, do you feel the fashion world is:

Despite having a reputation for lacking brand loyalty, this cohort doesn't necessarily think of itself as disloyal. They are, however, always on the lookout for new brands - possibly related to that desire for uniqueness. Over a third said they consider themselves loyal shoppers, and a half said they are 'relatively' loyal. Only 16% of shoppers said they rarely return to a brand.

Would you describe yourself as loyal to brands?

In the rest of this report we explore the shopping behaviours currently exhibited by Gen Z and millennials - as well as what they like and dislike about the propositions on offer.

Convenience scores highly for younger shoppers, who have high expectations surrounding it. More than half say the convenience of online shopping is its biggest appeal, and when asked what they would like to see more of, convenience-focused services are the most popular options.

Their biggest bugbears relating to online shopping are all delivery related: having to wait for a delivery, missing deliveries and paying for delivery or returns are the most annoying factors.

This area is a huge focus for the retailers we spoke to: see chapter 6, on convenience, for their comments on how they are developing their delivery and payment services.

What do you enjoy about online shopping?

What would you like to see more from brands online?

Improving fit technology is also a priority for this group, who seem clear on the benefits of sharing size data with retailers in return for better-fitting items and less returns administration.

But as Mike Branney, managing director of young fashion etailer Oh Polly, says, the technology has further to go: "Improving online fit technology is important but it's still quite gimmicky at the moment. When the systems move more towards virtual avatars with a combination of augmented reality, it will become a much more useful tool that people will actually choose to engage with."

What do you tend to find most annoying about online shopping?

Payment is another significant part of the process for these shoppers: 82% say it is either very or quite important. It has been an area of focus for retailers for years.

Nicola Thompson, global customer development director at Asos, says convenience and removing friction from the shopping experience is a priority: "That's why we offer 'buy now, pay later' through Klarna to give customers a chance to try product on without having to pay for it, and our premier delivery service that offers unlimited next-day delivery for just £9.99 a year.

"We're constantly following customer demand, bringing in new payment or delivery options as they become available, such as our same-day delivery proposition, Asos Instant in London, Leeds, Manchester and Birmingham."

How important is a quick checkout process to you when deciding if you will make a purchase or return to a retailer?

Comprehensive and descriptive product information is also important: 95% of people read product descriptions either every time or sometimes.

Do you read product descriptions when shopping online?

Most people read them for information on how an item fits - perhaps mining them for as much information as possible in the absence of advanced fit tech - but shoppers also look for information on the materials and methods used in manufacture.

Do you read the descriptions for:

Buying from overseas brands is also popular, despite the taxes and fees that can sometimes apply. Nearly 60% purchase from overseas brands either sometimes or often.

Do you ever get clothing, shoes or accessories shipped from overseas?

Simon Kinsey, commercial director at TranslateMedia, which helps retailers translate and adapt their brands for new markets, says this is the first generation of global online shoppers. "Gen Zs and millennials are happy to order from overseas brands and they expect the experience to be authentic, personal yet consistent. It is a tricky proposition for retailers to balance an online experience which takes different local cultures into account alongside the need for consistency relating to fit and delivery."

He adds that global content platforms are starting to become more flexible, which is helping to serve this global demand. "It's now possible for product descriptions to 'write themselves' using content asset data derived from product photography, fabric and washing instructions which means that copywriters can spend more time crafting their brand message to appeal to local trends for online shoppers."

For our shoppers, the main reasons behind the desire to buy overseas include cheaper product, and finding those unique items.

Why do you often shop for clothing, shoes or accessories internationally?

When it comes to store shopping, Generation Z and millennials like having the ability to try things on, the social aspect, and the ability to browse and get inspiration. This is consistent with other age groups.

Just as predictable are the elements of store shopping they do not like: crowds and sizes being out of stock.

What do you enjoy about shopping in store?

Retailers' store strategies are changing in response to this to focus more on the social and inspirational elements of store shopping.

Giorgina Waltier, sustainability manager at H&M UK and IE, says the retailer is "continually experimenting with new services" that go beyond the remit of traditional retail: "In many instances these new services tap into the development of our sustainability work and our ambition to become a circular business. For example, we recently launched a garment repair and embroidery service within selected H&M stores globally, to enable customers to increase the longevity of their clothes.

"We are also trialling the sale of eco-friendly washing detergents and microfibre-filter laundry bags - both of which are not products that we have traditionally sold but we see as important additions that meet changing customer needs."

She says H&M group is experimenting with the sale of vintage items at & Other Stories, and is also starting to work with advanced analytics to tackle over-production by creating more alignment between supply and demand. "This in turn will enable us to provide a more targeted, streamlined customer offer in our stores, freeing up more space to further test and experiment with new services."

Paul Forkan co-founded lifestyle brand Gandys with his brother Rob in 2012, and the brand has three stores in London. He says the brand's approach to store retailing has changed.

"In recent years the way we see our stores as part of our brand has definitely changed. Instead of being a main hub for sales they have become places where our community come to connect with our brand and the individuals that work in our shops."

He adds that people come in to not only get a feel for the product and fit, but to also get updates on the brand's charitable foundation, as well as advice and stories about travelling.

"With the current generation of young people spending less time on the high street, the challenge lies in creating this experience online," he says. "Technology will make this possible through chat rooms and live "digital try-ons" powered by web cams and artificial intelligence, but that is still a few years away from being opened up to the masses. For now, stores are still an essential part of the shopping experience, especially for those who care more for brands as a whole as opposed to just a single product."

What things do you not enjoy about shopping in store?

Potentially more concerning for some retailers is that 27% of respondents say they would stop going to stores altogether if the final issues with the online customer experience could be ironed out. A further 42% say they would be "quite likely" to abandon store shopping if all delivery was free and fast, and if they could envisage how an item would fit.

If all issues with online shopping could be erased, do you think you would cut out store shopping altogether?

However, this utopian ideal of online shopping is a way off yet - for now at least, stores provide a crucial way for consumers to meet their favourite brands in the physical world.

Environmental sustainability is important to these shoppers. More than three-quarters (76.7%) say it is either very or quite important. This is pretty consistent for every age range, although slightly more men rate it as very important (39.6%) than women (32.8%).

How important for you is it that a brand shows it is environmentally sustainable?

Equality in all its forms is just as important: 77.1% rate it as very or quite important. Only 9% say it is not important at all. All age groups are in agreement, but the 18-to-24-year-olds are particuarly focused on it: 82.7% say it is important to them and just under half say it is very important.

We wanted to know about all forms of equality, rather than only gender equality, because racism, and discrimination against LGBTQI and disabled people are just as important to many in this group. The efficacy of being vocal on these topics can be seen in the success of brands such as Levi's - a long-term supporter of LGBTQI equality - which has been driven by its ability to remain relevant to younger shoppers via its principles and its storytelling.

For you, how important is it that a brand shows it is pro-equality (across ethnicity, gender, sexuality or disability lines)

Nearly half of our respondents say they have at some point decided against a purchase because of a brand's lack of sustainability efforts. Retailers often report that customers do not appear to be willing to pay more for more ethically produced items, which makes it challenging to build a business case internally for investment in sustainable practices.

However, this suggests brands are losing sales to other, more sustainably driven retailers, which is a trend that will not be immediately visible in sales figures. The evidence was strongest among the 18-to-24-year-olds, of whom 55% say they had abandoned purchases. Men are also more likely to fail to complete purchases than women (54% versus 44%). There are also regional variations in how shoppers are approaching sustainability, with shoppers in the South East and London more likely to rate it as important. In London, 63% of shoppers reported having abandoned a purchase.

Have you ever abandoned a purchase because you felt that the brand didn't reflect your values on either sustainability or equality?

Nearly half of our respondents say they actively hunt out brands that are sustainable or vocal about equality. This supports the theory that demand for sustainable products and support for equality-focused brands may be invisible to some retailers at the moment, because rather than buying sustainable ranges from otherwise non-sustainable brands, shoppers are using their time and money to look for brands that align more comprehensively with their values.

While there may well be a gap between what people say they are doing, and what they are actually doing, this is nonetheless a trend to take seriously. The fact it is not always showing in sales figures yet could relate partly to the fact that shopping ethically and sustainably takes a significant amount of work and research on the part of the consumer. With comparatively few sustainable options available, it is also still hard for a customer to make sure their purchasing behaviour reflects their values - they may still be shopping unsustainably because choice is limited. Plus, retailers have an uphill battle when it comes to communicating their efforts. Few customers will know, for instance, that Primark's jeans are among the most sustainable available on the high street, and H&M is often accused of greenwashing, despite a 20 year effort to improve its sustainability credentials that significantly pre-dates the topic's current fashionable status. In addition, sustainability is not easy for retailers - it is a labyrinthine project that takes years to build expertise in, and is expensive to develop properly.

Simon Kinsey, commercial director at TranslateMedia, says customers' interest in equality can be seen in a current trend for product descriptions to be written in gender neutral language. "Demand for language neutrality is coming from international brands, often those in Benelux and Scandinavia specialising kids toys and accessories, adult sneakers and outdoor brands and, more recently, the skincare and beauty market. The trend for language neutrality is being closely tracked by brands in the UK and the US," he says.

Do you actively hunt for brands that are sustainable or vocal about furthering equality?

Shoppers' interest in sustainability is a trend that is backed up by search data. Over the last five years Google searches for the term "sustainable fashion" have been on a steady upward trend worldwide, with the biggest rises occuring in Australia, the UK, Hong Kong, Denmark and Singapore. Searches for the term "sustainable fashion brands" in the UK have rocketed by 450% since January 2016. Retailers such as US brands Everlane and Reformation are popular related terms, and both have experienced large rises in search volumes over a similar period.

However, while consumer interest in sustainable fashion is increasing, the retailers leading the way are not necessarily being driven by consumer demand.

Giorgina Waltier, sustainability manager at H&M UK and IE, says: "While it is truly brilliant that sustainability awareness has increased so significantly with consumers over the last couple of years, our commitment to and communication around sustainability is not consumer led.

"We started talking to our customers about sustainable materials back in 2011 when we launched our H&M Conscious line, about the importance of recycling clothes in 2013, when we launched our global in-store garment-recycling scheme, and about supply-chain transparency in 2013 when we were one of the first brands to publicly share our supplier list.

"So, communicating to customers about the importance of sustainability is not new for us. What is new is the increase in appetite for this information, and what we are still yet to master is a balance in the level and detail of information that we share with the consumer."

Generation Z and millennial shoppers are predictably high users of mobile and social channels, but it is interesting to see the extent of these habits. Just over 70% of respondents report shopping via mobile apps, and users return regularly to their favourite retail apps to check for new product and content.

Do you shop using mobile apps?

This tallies with the findings of our Connected Consumer report, published in late 2018. That found these shoppers are avid mobile users: 77% use their phones to browse fashion, and 68% use them to buy fashion. It also found that they like apps: nearly 80% have downloaded at least one retailer or brand app, while 23% have downloaded four or more.

Over 70% of our shoppers said that they have purchased via social - some of the brands we spoke to say they have seen this reflected in their sales figures.

James Gold, co-founder of accessories brand Skinnydip London, says: "We have noticed our social transactions increasing." He adds that it is something the brand is looking at in careful detail, using focus groups to determine the images, products and captions that are most effective.

"Skinnydip was born on social and it is where we engage with our customers on the most authentic level. We believe that Gen Z and millennial customers identify most with brands that share their values and are honest, so that's our main focus in providing genuine, engaging content."

He adds getting the mix right is important for different groups. Those in their thirties respond well to different posts from those in their twenties. However, some trends are more universal.

"We notice an increase in new customers on social especially around new collaboration launches, or when we produce IGTV [Instagram video] content."

Have you ever purchased from a brand by clicking through from a social post?

Asos has 23 million followers across its various social platforms, and is focusing on having engaging two-way conversations with them.

Global customer development director Nicola Thompson says: "We know that our twentysomething customers spend a lot of their time on their mobile phones and using social media, so that is where we need to be to having engaging, two-way conversations with them." The focus is on inspiring them on the channel, she adds.

The networks used by these shoppers are shifting quickly, but in late 2018, those aged 18 to 24 reported in our Connected Consumer report that 74% of them use Facebook and 70% use Instagram.

With missed deliveries or inconvenient services causing annoyance for younger online fashion shoppers (see chapter 1), focusing on convenience has become a significant priority for retailers.

James Gold, co-founder of accessories brand Skinnydip London, says it is an area the brand is constantly working on improving: "Within the last six months, we have launched Doodle returns options, collection point delivery and free collection from an selection our Skinnydip stores. For us, the delivery process is critical. When there are companies like Amazon as competitors, we know that we have to try to meet customers' expectations as best as we can."

He adds it also already offers a pay-later service with Klarna, and is looking at being able to "slice" payments, so shoppers can pay in instalments, in the coming months.

Jo Tutchener-Sharp, founder of Scamp & Dude, says the childrenswear brand is working on introducing free shipping: "We have been looking at how we can incorporate the fulfilment and shipping costs into the overheads so we can get rid of shipping costs for the customer, as I know this is an issue for some customers when large operators such as Amazon offer free shipping. But at the moment it's not viable to pay for the packing, fulfilment costs and shipping ourselves."

Other brands are looking even further into the future.

Mike Branney, managing director of Oh Polly says the young women's clothing brand is looking beyond buy now, pay later: "We offer 'buy now, pay later' on our site for UK customers, and plan to roll out the same service in the US and Australia in the next few months. We are also investigating accepting payments in electronic wallets and cryptocurrencies, although the latter is still not particularly mainstream."

Andrew Cooper, head of direct to consumer trading and operations at Pentland Brands, says: "We constantly review these two areas and have recently added more delivery options so consumers can order later in the day for next-day delivery. We have bespoke payment options for different regions, and we are actively looking at how we provide more payment choices."

In our survey, consumers report being keen on convenience-boosting services. Almost two-thirds say they add items to their baskets for pay day purchases, and 69% of respondents say they would be likely to bring purchases forward if they were able to defer payment.

How often do you add items to basket and then wait for payday to make the purchase?

How likely are you to bring a purchase forward if you could pause payment until payday?

How do you feel about making purchases using a deferred payment method?

However, reaction to the idea of another convenience-focused service, renting clothes, was more mixed. While nearly a third said they would like to rent clothes from their favourite brands, nearly half said they would not. One-fifth were undecided.

Oh Polly's Branney says the complexity of large-scale rental is off-putting: "Moving from a model that already sees return rates of 30% to 40% to a return rate of 100% would require a step change in process. The rental market is also better suited to outerwear and hard-wearing fabrics, as most materials lose their lustre and structure after a few washes."

While renting is a newer idea for some, a third of our shoppers still said it appeals. It is likely that for many brands, a rental service could be a part of their future. This is especially true for longer-wearing items, one-wear purchases such as wedding outfits, or items whose wearers grow out of them quickly, such as children's clothes. Rental also plays into consumers' desires for both convenience and sustainability.

Would you rent clothes if your favourite brands offered that service?

This is also an area of the market where innovation will continue to have an impact. The sharing and rental economy is evolving quickly - both in the UK, but also in markets including China, where some rental platforms include the option of peer-to-peer rental. In the UK, it is an area where further development is likely to take place and where consumer attitudes could evolve quickly.

The behaviour of millennials and GenZs has already had a huge influence on the retail market.

They are proficient in navigating multiple channels, comfortable engaging with brands on social media and accustomed to broadcasting opinions about their shopping experiences online.

Both groups share an appetite for cross-border shopping if it means that they can buy distinctive products that are not available locally, but are also concerned with the methods of manufacture and that they are ethically sourced and sustainable. Product fit is also of huge importance and they spend time reading product descriptions to check measurements and materials. They also tend to lack the brand loyalty displayed by previous generations which means that retailers are faced with increased competition both locally and from abroad and have to work harder than ever before to produce the high-quality product descriptions and editorial content they need to stand out from their competitors.

At TranslateMedia, we specialise in translation and the cultural adaptation of content for brands and retailers to ensure quality and brand tone-of-voice consistency.

TranslateMedia develops technology to seamlessly integrate with all of the major CMSs and eCommerce platforms - drastically reducing localisation turnaround times, increasing speed to market and boosting ROI from global marketing campaigns.
Simon Kinsey, Commercial Director, TranslateMedia

It's no secret that the younger generations hold the key to the future of retail.

In an era of instant gratification, same day delivery, and the ability to shop through social channels, younger consumers expect a completely different and totally tailored shopping experience, that brands need to fulfill.

Klarna's research into the future of fashion technology has shown over half (53%) of fashion shoppers aged 16-24 would be happy for a retailer to use their online data to offer tailored discounts or recommendations. While more than one in five (22%) would like to be able to leave a store and pay for items later once they've decided what to keep. It's a different world now to what retailers have been catering to over the last 20 years.

But while retailers need to ensure they truly understand the demands of younger tech-driven shoppers, this approach can't be limited to those in a certain age bracket. We know that experience is the lifeblood of the retail economy, so offering the best experience whether through flexible payments, or a smooth returns process, solely to those in a certain age bracket would be an error.

Experience really is the new loyalty, and a truly tailored experience from perusal to payment needs to be embedded into a retailer's shopping cycle, for all consumers young and old.
Luke Griffiths, General Manager of Klarna UK

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Between them, Generation Z and millennials - broadly, shoppers in their late teens, twenties and thirties - attract endless attention, and represent fashion's consumers of both the present and future. In this report, Drapers takes an in-depth look at how the two groups are changing, and how they feel about the fashion industry.

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Before undertaking my comp shop, I planned out my site visits in terms of criteria and what I wanted to achieve from the comp shop. The comp shop was undertaken to get an understanding of similar competition and what they are doing online, how they display product, current promotions and fluidity of the website.

This being an exclusive collaboration it was less about what competitors were doing in terms of pricing but more in terms of how they were promoting and displaying and whether they were positive or negative for the customer experience and the impacts on product in correlation with this.

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I continuously went back to the House of Sunny website to evaluate their Marketing, promotions, general layout and of course their ranges. They had a brilliant page which showed all of the information needed on their views on sustainability which came in very handy.

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INDIVIDUAL NEGOTIATED RETAIL PROJECT — INRP BRIEF

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INDIVIDUAL NEGOTIATED RETAIL PROJECT — INRP BRIEF

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Learning Outcomes

Create a business plan for an individual negotiated retail project

Use research to initiate ideas and concepts for a negotiated retail project

Analyse research to inform the development of ideas and concepts - Apply fashion retail specific knowledge and skills to implement a negotiated retail project to a professional standard

Solve practical, theoretical and technical problems to progress ideas and concepts

Use appropriate practical methods and specialist skills in the realisation of a negotiated project

Professionally present themselves and their project to an identified audience

Use reflective and evaluate skills to identify personal strengths and future opportunities.

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Business plan template including my proposal agreed with Ruth and my weekly plan, updated Weekly with progress and thoughts on the project.

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Initial ideas for INP, Key dates and what should be included on this PADLET as well as the actual INP

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INRP Brief

Brief document

Proposal Form

Initial Planning/Ideas

Business planning forms

Mind Mapping

Notes taken

Initial Research & Inspiration

Pinterest

Moodboard

What’s trending??

Comp Shop

Store visits/Website visits (if online store) to my brand and competitors

Pictures/screen grabs of everything

Survey results

Summary of Comp Shop and how will it affect the rest of my INP

Brand Report

Statistics (Global Data)

Brand Background (Timeline)

Price & Fahsionability

News on the brand (Recent)

Customer profiling

Acorn

Include survey/interviews as primary research

What generation shops there most? Why?

Previous things the brand has done that are similar...Were they successful?

Range Plan

Inspiration &  Mood boards

Colours and Key Design details

Assortment, Colour and Print Mix

Product Development

Pricing Architecture

Packaging and Labels (special bags/packaging for this range?)

Sourcing

Sourcing research 9Primary & secondary)

Logistics

Critical Path

Merchandising

Sizing

Store Locations

Category Planning

Pricing

Profit

Marketing Strategy

How will I advertise my range?

Why will I do it that way?

Statistics on marketing (secondary)

Survey on Marketing (primary)

Planogram - How will the range be laced out in stores

PEST

SWOT

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I created a customer survey for both Motel Rocks and HoS to get a better understanding of the customer profiles of each brand. I included questions such as “How often do you shop with this brand?” and basic questions about their age, education and how their style is influenced. This will help me have a better understanding of each brands customer base and, therefore, tailor my range and marketing to that.

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Web survey powered by SurveyMonkey.com. Create your own online survey now with SurveyMonkey's expert certified FREE templates.

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Web survey powered by SurveyMonkey.com. Create your own online survey now with SurveyMonkey's expert certified FREE templates.

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I found it really hard to come up with an idea. I either had too many to choose from, or changed my mind and didn’t like any of them so had to think up a new one.

Coming up and sticking with a concrete idea was a lot harder as this project has a lot more weight to it than previous projects.

A unique selling proposition was hard to think of I definitely wanted size inclusivity, sustainability or something that was really current and exactly what people on social media were asking for. Something that really called out to people.

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A comp shop is obviously quite hard in the current situation but I was still able to visit the websites I needed.

I did my surveys online rather than in person. I was limited due to the fact that I could only ask 10 questions in each survey but it did mean I made my questions more concise and to the point.

In a way I feel like this will give me better results as it gives people answering the survey more time to think of their answers rather than asking people in store when they probably don’t have time. I could also share the link with people I thought could give honest answers.

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I had two brands to do a report for, which took up more time than I would have liked but I just decided to do each report slightly less in depth and pick out the really useful parts.

My placement experience really helped with this part, especially the Brand Marketing as we did a lot about Comparison shopping and what M&S could do to better Market their Lingerie.

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I knew the Range plan was always going to be my favourite part of this project. It really gave me a chance to be creative and explore my abilities that I discovered through my initial range plan. I enjoyed taking my idea and making it into something, especially when I feel it reflects my idea so well.

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I took a lot of inspiration of my sourcing section from my previous sourcing project. I decided to do a garment that would be sourced from Turkey as I had already done a lot of research on Turkey and I could use that knowledge again.

I looked at my feedback for the previous project and noticed I had done it by sea freight from Turkey when I should have done it by Van and Ferry as pointed out by Ruth. So I made sure to alter that.

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Due to both of my brands being e-commerce there were a lot of things that I didn’t have to include in my Merchandising section, such as store location and distribution. This was honestly. Bit of a relief as this was my least favourite section due to all of the numbers.

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The marketing strategy was by far one of my favourite parts of this project. I got a chance to dabble in market strategy when doing my placement in the M&S Lingerie department. I really enjoyed coming up with ideas for Instagram layouts and ways to promote the range.

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This is where I got the majority of my information on House of Sunny.

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As far as cool brands on the 'gram go, it doesn't get much cooler than House of Sunny.

Since its inception in 2011, the Hackney-based brand has become the go-to for all things 70's luxe, drenched in retro nostalgia, produced in an array of muted hues.

And now, for the first time, they're launching their first bricks-and-mortar pop-up in Central London, which will enable fans to experience the clothes IRL.

House of Sunny was founded by 32-year-old Sunny Williams, who aimed to create a brand which designed essential staples for women with a laser-sharp focus on high-end tailoring and a chic, Instagram-friendly twist.

House of Sunny's Chocolate Penny Coat has been worn by everybody who's an anybody on the internet / House of Sunny

"My initial intention was to simply build better, cool and crafted clothes for friends. Our plan was for the brand to be genuine, inclusive and attractive and we wanted our ethics, sustainability and limited edition to became our backbone," Williams explains.

Sustainability has been at the core of every undulation in House of Sunny's journey to fruition: the brand produces only two seasonal collections a year meaning the design team, which work out of the brand's East London studio, have more time to research and source dead stock materials, which they use to craft their clothes. The brand doesn't use fur, leather, skins or silk and the wool they use in their covetable knitwear is sourced from a producer with a good animal husbandry.

Read more

7 up-and-coming cool-girl brands to have on your radar

The brand's ethos and pieces have enabled it to amass a less-than-humble Instagram following of 160,000 and a loyal fan base, that Williams affectionately refers to as "The Homies."

And it is indeed 'The Homies' who have been the inspiration behind the brand's upcoming six-week pop-up.

House of Sunny's pop-up is located in Central London (House of Sunny ) / House of Sunny

The House of Sunny store will host interactive events and experiences for anybody signed up to their newsletter: think secret in-store performances from the freshest acts hot off the London R&B scene to workshops for young women about sustainability and collaboration in beauty hosted by Insta-cool brow community, Bambrows.

Also available at the space will be Hackney-based, Scandi-designed jewellery brand, Phine, and fellow London brand, Neon Hope, which has become renowned for its outrageous sunglasses.

Commenting on the launch of the brand's first bricks-and-mortar pop-up, House of Sunny's Managing Director Camilla Ley noted that the team cannot wait to open the doors on their first ever retail space and "to welcome our beloved London community for a multi-faceted experience."
The House of Sunny pop-up store opens at 45 South Molton Street on Friday November 1 until Sunday December 8. To stay updated with the store's events, sign up to their newsletter here.

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This Insta-famous Hackney brand is opening a pop-up in Mayfair

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As far as cool brands on the 'gram go, it doesn't get much cooler than House of Sunny. Since its inception in 2011, the Hackney-based brand has become the go-to for all things 70's luxe, drenched in retro nostalgia, produced in an array of muted hues.

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Sustainability article on House of Sunny 

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Sustainability article on House of Sunny 

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When it comes to ' sustainable fashion', due its only recently-discovered importance and infancy in terms of development, designs often just miss the mark in either affordability of aesthetic creativity (or, often, both), but there's a relatively undiscovered East London-based label that's nailing every single aspect.

Creating affordable, trend-led, individual collections that both fashion editors and influencers alike can't get enough of, House of Sunny is the perfect example of a forward-thinking and future-proofed fashion brand that we should all get behind.

Launched in 2011, House of Sunny's founder Sunny Williams prides himself on running an independent womenswear label based in London creating everyday pieces with elevated accents and technically innovative design.

With the support of the British Fashion Council, House of Sunny is currently on its fourteenth collection - which, although loosely called 'AW19', is another display of entirely seasonless, transitional pieces which will last well beyond the end of autumn/winter '19.

The two seasonal collections do, however, hold a huge significance, in that the time frame - as opposed to a drop each of the four seasons, or even monthly - sets the design team at a slower pace, allowing time for research and sourcing of sustainable fabrics and manufacturing methods.

"We put product first - how and where we make it matter" acknowledged the team. "We know who makes our clothes throughout every process and our designs are manufactured in small limited runs to prevent the waste of materials."

"We focus on reducing our waste by increasing our marker efficiency and reusing 80% of our leftovers to create small products such as hats, scarfs and head bands."

"30% of our care labels and swing tags are made from garment waste, we hope to get this 100% by the end of the year."

And it's not just a sustainable mission that the brand champions, but also an ethical one.

"Our production partners overseas are visited frequently and our process is always ethical."

"We do not use fur, leather, skins or silk and the wool we do use is course from producers with good animal husbandry."

Sold? Head to House of Sunny to fall in love even further...

11 ethical fashion brands you've probably never heard of (but that we *guarantee* you'll love)

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This is the sustainable, London-based fashion brand that influencers can't stop wearing

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When it comes to ' sustainable fashion', due its only recently-discovered importance and infancy in terms of development, designs often just miss the mark in either affordability of aesthetic creativity (or, often, both), but there's a relatively undiscovered East London-based label that's nailing every single aspect.

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Your browser does not have JS enabled, you are still able to browse the website but you won't be able to access advanced features such as editing or logging in.

All of our favorite things, from dresses & denim to skirts, loungewear & more. Always new & all for you.

The best basics, exclusive collabs, sneakers, graphics & all the brands you need to know.

So many ways to make your small space special with bedding, décor, furniture (for inside and outside!) & more.

About UO

Urban Outfitters is a lifestyle retailer dedicated to inspiring customers through a unique combination of product, creativity and cultural understanding. Founded in 1970 in a small space across the street from the University of Pennsylvania, Urban Outfitters now operates over 200 stores in the United States, Canada and Europe, offering experiential retail environments and a well-curated mix of on-trend women's and men's clothes, from boho dresses, denim and graphics to shoes, hats, and backpacks, as well as beauty, intimates, swim and a collection of handpicked vintage clothing. Urban Outfitters also carries everything you need to decorate your small space, apartment or dorm, with a UO Home collection that includes bedding, tapestries, rugs, shower curtains and furniture. Our Music + Tech collection is a go-to destination for vinyl, record players and tech accessories. Visit our stores, where all are welcome and there's always something new to see, or shop online at UrbanOutfitters.com and get free shipping on qualifying US orders. For special offers, one-of-a-kind prizes and more, download the UO app and join UO Rewards! Want to be part of the conversation? Follow, share and shop @UrbanOutfitters.

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Always open, always awesome. Clothing, accessories and apartment items for men and women.

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Women's Shirts & Blouses | ZARA United Kingdom

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Shirts and blouses to achieve effortless style at ZARA online. Receive your order with FREE SHIPPING and save time. Enter now and discover all the shirts and blouses of the new collection at ZARA. com

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Submission Guidelines

• evaluate the sourcing policy of your brand and take 1 garment from your range plan  from concept to delivery in the dc

• develop a  clear supplier strategy – garment journey

• create and infographic for your project

• demonstrate your understanding of concept and trend

• analyse the pros and cons of the type of supplier that you choose

• demonstrate your understanding  of the importance of profitability

• add the key margin calculations to your info graphic

• include a pestel for your chosen sourcing country

• include sustainability measures for your brand

• evaluate your  chosen country of origin and offer pros and con of sourcing your garment from this region. – garment journey

• demonstrate an understanding of all of the stages in the garment critical path and timing from your chosen coo – garment journey

analyse the transport and logistics methods for your chosen coo and demonstrate a clear transport strategy – garment journey

• write an evaluation that is both reflective and forward looking  explaining why you have made some of your choices  for how does your strategy benefit your retailer, would you change anything in hindsight?

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https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/fashion/house-of-sunny-pop-up-mayfair-a4274326.html

https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/article/house-of-sunny-fashion-brand

https://www.zara.com/uk/en/woman-shirts-l1217.html?v1=1718183&page=3

https://www.stories.com/en_gbp/index.html

https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/?ref=logo

https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/89332

https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/90095

https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/89192#page1

https://www.ispo.com/en/markets/apparel-and-textile-sourcing-turkey-has-ups-and-downs

https://www.drapersonline.com/topics/supply-chain/buying-and-sourcing-in-turkey

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What is PESTLE Analysis? PESTLE analysis, which is sometimes referred to as PEST analysis, is a concept in marketing principles. Moreover, this concept is used as a tool by companies to track the environment they're operating in or are planning to launch a new project/product/service, etc. So, let's find out what these letters stand for first.

PESTLE is a mnemonic which in its expanded form denotes P for Political, E for Economic, S for Social, T for Technological, L for Legal, and E for Environmental. It gives a bird's eye view of the whole environment from many different angles that one wants to check and keep a track of while contemplating a certain idea/plan.

The PESTEL framework has undergone certain alterations, as gurus of Marketing have added certain things like an E for Ethics to instill the element of demographics while utilizing the framework while researching the market.

Asking the Right Questions

There are certain questions that one needs to ask while conducting this analysis, which gives them an idea of what things to keep in mind. They are:

What is the political situation of the country and how can it affect the industry?

What are the prevalent economic factors?

How much importance does culture have in the market and what are its determinants?

What technological innovations are likely to pop up and affect the market structure?

Are there any current legislations that regulate the industry or can there be any change in the legislations for the industry?

What are the environmental concerns for the industry?

All the aspects of this technique are crucial for any industry a business might be in. More than just understanding the market, this framework represents one of the vertebras of the backbone of strategic management that not only defines what a company should do but also accounts for an organization's goals and the strategies stringed to them.

It may be so, that the importance of each of the factors may be different to different kinds of industries, but it is imperative to any strategy a company wants to develop that they conduct the PESTLE analysis as it forms a much more comprehensive version of the SWOT analysis. If you don't know what is a SWOT analysis, we have you covered.

It is very critical for one to understand the complete depth of each of the letters of the PESTLE.

Political factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors determine the extent to which a government may influence the economy or a certain industry. For example, a government may impose a new tax or duty due to which entire revenue generating structures of organizations might change. Political factors include tax policies, Fiscal policy, trade tariffs, etc. that a government may levy around the fiscal year and it may affect the business environment (economic environment) to a great extent.

Economic factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors are determinants of an economy's performance that directly impacts a company and have resonating long term effects. For example, a rise in the inflation rate of any economy would affect the way companies price their products and services. Adding to that, it would affect the purchasing power of a consumer and change demand/supply models for that economy. Economic factors include inflation rate, interest rates, foreign exchange rates, economic growth patterns, etc. It also accounts for the FDI (foreign direct investment) depending on certain specific industries who're undergoing this analysis.

Social factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors scrutinize the social environment of the market, and gauge determinants like cultural trends, demographics, population analytics, etc. An example of this can be buying trends for Western countries like the US where there is high demand during the Holiday season.

Technological factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors pertain to innovations in technology that may affect the operations of the industry and the market favorably or unfavorably. This refers to automation, research and development, and the amount of technological awareness that a market possesses.

Legal factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors have both external and internal sides. There are certain laws that affect the business environment in a certain country while there are certain policies that companies maintain for themselves. Legal analysis takes into account both of these angles and then charts out the strategies in light of these legislations. For example, consumer laws, safety standards, labor laws, etc.

Environmental factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors include all those that influence or are determined by the surrounding environment. This aspect of the PESTLE is crucial for certain industries particularly for example tourism, farming, agriculture, etc. Factors of a business environmental analysis include but are not limited to climate, weather, geographical location, global changes in climate, environmental offsets, etc.

There are many templates available for companies to conduct PESTLE analysis. Many organizations have provided information regarding their PESTLE analysis as case studies available on the Internet.
Image: dizain/Shutterstock.com and DepositPhotos

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What is PESTLE Analysis? An Important Business Analysis Tool

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Ever wondered what is PESTLE Analysis? That's an analytical tool that stands for Political, Economic, Social, Technological, Legal and Environmental analysis.

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I continuously went back to the House of Sunny website to evaluate their Marketing, promotions, general layout and of course their ranges. They had a brilliant page which showed all of the information needed on their views on sustainability which came in very handy.

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I returned, again and again to the MR website so that I could accurately reflect their brand in my report. I wanted it to be as authentic as possible and true to both brands.

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I created a customer survey for both Motel Rocks and HoS to get a better understanding of the customer profiles of each brand. I included questions such as “How often do you shop with this brand?” and basic questions about their age, education and how their style is influenced. This will help me have a better understanding of each brands customer base and, therefore, tailor my range and marketing to that.

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Web survey powered by SurveyMonkey.com. Create your own online survey now with SurveyMonkey's expert certified FREE templates.

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Web survey powered by SurveyMonkey.com. Create your own online survey now with SurveyMonkey's expert certified FREE templates.

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Consumer confidence hits five-year low as Brexit uncertainty bites

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Consumer confidence hits five-year low as Brexit uncertainty bites

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Article regarding consumer confidence.

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Consumer confidence has slumped to a five-year low as Brexit uncertainty left shoppers fearing for the stability of the UK economy in the months ahead.

The GfK index, which is used by the European commission to judge consumer confidence, fell to -14 in December, down from -13 in the previous month and -10 in October.

The monthly monitor showed that most of the fall was fuelled by fears for the UK economy rather than consumers' concerns about their personal finances.

However, Joe Staton, of GfK, said: "In the face of ever-rising costs, and the threat of higher inflation combined with uncertainty around the outcome of the Brexit negotiations, consumers are in a chilly mood of despondency and putting on a glum face when they look at the prospects for 2019."

The decline in confidence mirrored results from high street chains including Boots, which said underlying sales at its pharmacies slid 3.5% while retail sales were down 2.6% in the three months to end of November.

The health and beauty chain's owner, Walgreens Boots Alliance, blamed a "very weak retail environment" in the UK. It said profits fell by 2.5%, excluding the impact of exchange rate changes and exceptional items, including the sale of the chain's manufacturing division.

Last week the Sports Direct founder, Mike Ashley, complained that retailers had experienced their worst November on record.

However, official UK figures for November were more buoyant after reports from retailers of a bounce back in sales after declines in the previous two months.

The Office for National Statistics said heavy discounting by online retailers on Black Friday and Cyber Monday drove a sharp rise in sales of 4K TVs, laptops and high-end smartphones.

The surge in online spending, which surprised the City after doom-laden reports by retailers, pushed the quantity of goods bought last month up by 1.4% compared with October. The annual increase hit 3.6%.

Retail analysts said the reliance by the ONS on smaller retailers in its survey skewed the results. Nick Bubb, an independent analyst, said: "Yet again the ONS retail sales figures are grossly inflated by improbably good growth for 'small businesses'. And yet again the ONS doesn't think the divergence against the weak performance of 'large businesses' is worth commenting on."

Howard Archer, the chief economic adviser to the EY Item Club, said: "There are bound to be suspicions about the November data, given that the ONS has acknowledged that it is not easy to seasonally adjust for Black Friday data given the changing nature of promotions.

"Furthermore, the underlying performance of retail sales still looks lacklustre, with volumes up a modest 0.4% in the three months to November compared to the three months to August."
Topics

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Consumer confidence hits five-year low as Brexit uncertainty bites

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Consumer confidence has slumped to a five-year low as Brexit uncertainty left shoppers fearing for the stability of the UK economy in the months ahead. The GfK index, which is used by the European commission to judge consumer confidence, fell to -14 in December, down from -13 in the previous month and -10 in October.

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Sustainability in UK Retail - GlobalData

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Sustainability in UK Retail - GlobalData

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This report showed the key trends within sustainability currently and identified surveyed opinions. This report was important to understand the consumers views in terms of sustainability and the most effective ways of communicating this. Helpful information included the importance of consumers understanding where clothing is manufactured and that they consider the ethics which supported my supplier reasoning.

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UK on course for no-deal Brexit as Johnson rejects EU agreement

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UK on course for no-deal Brexit as Johnson rejects EU agreement

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How no-deal impacts the UK/where the UK is at currently in terms of Brexit. (accessed 27.07.19)

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Boris Johnson has set the UK on an apparent course towards a no-deal Brexit by playing down the likelihood of any talks with the EU unless Brussels agrees to scrap the existing withdrawal agreement and Irish backstop, both of which it has ruled out.

The seemingly intransigent tone prompted Leo Varadkar, the Irish prime minister, to warn that a no-deal departure could lead more people in Northern Ireland to seek a united Ireland.

Johnson's spokesman said there were no talks with the EU scheduled, and that if they happened it must be "clear what the basis for those discussions needs to be" - a message the new PM then delivered personally to Angela Merkel.

According to No 10, Johnson told the German chancellor in a phone call on Friday that while he would seek a deal, the "only solution" involved entirely scrapping the backstop, and that in the interim the UK must prepare for the prospect of there being no deal.

Asked earlier if Johnson's team had sought any talks with Brussels, a Downing Street spokesman said: "What we've done is set out our position and say that we are very ready and will be energetic in beginning talking, but we're also clear-eyed about what needs to happen if we are going to be able to secure a deal which parliament can support.

"As I say, we are ready to begin talking, but we are clear what the basis for those discussions needs to be."

The approach from Johnson, who spent Friday visiting a police centre in Birmingham to tout his domestic promise of 20,000 new officers, will boost speculation about a deliberate attempt by a No 10 now packed with former Vote Leave alumni to scupper any negotiated settlement.

With a seeming majority in the Commons set on blocking a no-deal departure on 31 October, this could create an impasse in which Johnson could declare an autumn election, for which he will be styled as the champion of Brexit.

The strategy does, however, carry risks, not least to the integrity of the UK, even as No 10 confirmed that Johnson would carry the extra, self-appointed title of "minister for the union".

On the visit to Birmingham, Johnson tried to scotch speculation that he was preparing for a general election, saying he would "absolutely not" call for another vote. The prime minister said: "The British people ... don't want another electoral event, they don't want a referendum, they don't want a general election. They want us to deliver."

While Johnson has no plans for talks with Brussels, he has spoken to Donald Trump, who called him on Friday evening to congratulate him on his new role and discuss the "unparalleled" trade opportunities offered by Brexit. The US president, who has publicly praised Johnson on numerous occasions, also discussed the Iran crisis.

Downing Street said: "The leaders both expressed their commitment to delivering an ambitious free trade agreement and to starting negotiations as soon as possible after the UK leaves the EU."

However, at an event on Friday in Co Donegal, Varadkar warned that a no-deal Brexit could make some in Northern Ireland "question the union". "People who you might describe as moderate nationalists or moderate Catholics, who were more or less happy with the status quo, will look more towards a united Ireland," he said.

"And we will increasingly see liberal Protestants and liberal unionists starting to ask the question as to where they feel more at home: is it in a nationalist Britain that is talking about potentially reintroducing the death penalty, or something like that, or is it part of a European home and part of Ireland?"

Johnson is likely to face some turbulent encounters with other EU leaders, including at next month's G7 summit in France. Following Johnson's call with Merkel, a German spokeswoman, Ulrike Demmer, said he had also accepted an invitation to visit Berlin.

He is expected to combine it with a visit to the French president, Emmanuel Macron, to whom he also also spoken. Political insiders in Berlin say the visit could take place as early as next week, but no date has been announced.

Michael Roth, Germany's minister of state for Europe, said Johnson was mistaken "to believe that the European Union will let itself be blackmailed". He told the TV channel ZDF: "My message to the new British prime minister is very clear. Boris, the election campaign is over. Just calm down."

Following Johnson's talk with Macron, France's minister for European affairs, Amélie de Montchalin, said both sides should avoid "games, gestures and provocations" with just three months to go before the UK is due to leave the EU.

On the domestic front, Johnson is due to make the latest in a series of ambitious, if so far vague and uncosted, new policies, this time for a new trans-Pennine rail route between Manchester and Leeds.

At a speech in Manchester on Saturday, Johnson was expected to say: "It will be up to local people and us to come to an agreement on the exact proposal they want - but I have tasked officials to accelerate their work on these plans so that we are ready to do a deal in the autumn."

The coming weeks, however, look set to be dominated by what could descend into a Brexit standoff, with a united EU27 adamant that there is no time to rewrite the withdrawal agreement, and that the backstop is the only proven way to avoid the risk of a hard Irish border.

Pressed on whether Johnson's stance meant, in effect, that the process was deadlocked, his spokesman said the UK's priority remained to leave with a deal. "But it is very clear that if we are going to be able to secure a deal that allows us to leave on 31 October, which the prime minister has said we are absolutely going to do, that is going to mean reopening the withdrawal agreement," he said.

Johnson must also factor in concerns about his strategy from worried Conservatives, given that he has a working Commons majority of just three, which seems set to fall further after the Brecon and Radnorshire byelection next week.

Tobias Ellwood, the junior defence minister, who strongly opposes a no-deal departure, was sacked from his post on Friday. He later told the Press Association that while "pure Brexiteers" on the Conservative benches wanted no deal, "the damage to our economy will send our party into opposition for a decade".
Topics

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UK on course for no-deal Brexit as Johnson rejects EU agreement

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Boris Johnson has set the UK on an apparent course towards a no-deal Brexit by playing down the likelihood of any talks with the EU unless Brussels agrees to scrap the existing withdrawal agreement and Irish backstop, both of which it has ruled out.

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Beyond Sustainable: The Growing Demand for Ethical Fashion

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Beyond Sustainable: The Growing Demand for Ethical Fashion

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Article regarding the demand for ethical fashion.

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When Vogue Australia quietly hit the newsstands in its home country and abroad earlier this month, its theme, which as recently as three years ago would have raised eyebrows among serious fashion-watchers, caused nary a ripple of controversy. Entitled "Designing Our Future," and guest edited by Emma Watson, the fashion bible's most recent edition is completely sustainability-focused, with features on pioneers like Tim Flannery discussing the Great Barrier Reef and Stella McCartney touting sustainable style.

The issue comes at a pivotal time-2018 has already proven to be a year when silenced voices ring out...and it is only April. Cause-related fashion first hit the scene when McCartney launched her fur-free, leather-free business in the early 2000s. Although there were millions of skeptics at first, over the last 15 years ethical fashion - developing, producing and distributing apparel, accessories and footwear in a way that preserves the planet and its inhabitants - has become not only an integral part of the industry, but also a key strategic initiative of many big and small players. As the commercial advantage of brands investing in ethical fashion becomes increasingly evident, companies from Walmart to Gucci have evolved their missions to align with the shifting landscape. No longer just about being eco-friendly, over the coming months and years we will see this trend accelerate and expand to include concern for human and animal rights, community, country, and more.
Young Consumers Are Changing the Game
Brands and retailers are taking this responsibility seriously, encouraged by younger consumers who, it turns out, are more conscious than any generation before it of the origins, composition, carbon footprint, and other consequences of what they purchase and wear. Numerous studies done in the past few years have confirmed that upwards of 65-70 percent of consumers under 35 around the world report that they will choose brands or retailers based on their ethical practices. A 2016 Morgan Stanley Research survey done in the U.K. found that when choosing among retailers, more than half of young consumers find ethical credentials somewhat or very important. These buyers are changing the game for brands, and we will continue to see more attention paid to sourcing factors, as the rapid growth of many new entrants to the fashion scene built on this pillar have demonstrated.

Hugely successful Everlane, one of the first nextgen apparel brands to give detailed information about the factories, costs and raw materials sources for its clothing, was ridiculed early on by industry veterans for its naïveté. Since then, many others, including some large traditional brands like Gap and Levi's, have included sourcing transparency in the information they share with consumers.

Stockholm-based Swedish Stockings has bucked the decline in the hosiery business by making its sheers and tights entirely of eco-friendly recycled yarns and using recycled purified water and renewable energy sources in its closed-loop production system.

While it would be wonderful if this new generation of consumers could see to it that climate change, human rights violations and irresponsible use of resources grind to a halt on planet Earth, many difficult obstacles exist, from finding a consistent definition of ethical fashion to managing supply chains to communicating with consumers. A focus on any of these areas, which tends to add cost to product development and production, must be undertaken carefully by a brand to ensure that the view is worth the climb.

What Does "Ethical" Mean?

One of the first steps a company should take to participate in responsible fashion is to try to cut through all the noise about what ethical and sustainability even mean to them and to their consumers. Does a sustainable garment need to be made of recycled materials, or is being organic sufficient? Where does responsible use of resources like energy, chemicals and water fit into the values hierarchy? And what about animals - do consumers want ethical treatment of animals, like Canada Goose requires in its traceable down-filled and fur-trimmed jackets, or is it better to make animal-free products, like Stella McCartney and handbag brand Matt and Nat? How important-or feasible- is it to ensure that suppliers' employees are paid fairly and have a safe and healthy work environment? And what is the best way to make sure your company is following best practices?

Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli pays his employees a premium above the going rate and takes a lower markup than most of his luxury brand competitors, makes sure his company's practices preserve the environment, and ensures that the cashmere and other raw materials he sources from Mongolia, India and elsewhere are obtained in a sustainable and fair-trade manner.

Big-box retailers are finding that small things can make a big difference. Costco added windows to and dimmed the lights in its stores, and regularly revises transportation strategies to improve energy efficiency and reduce carbon footprint.

Though few millennials would think about Walmart and sustainability in the same idea, the Bentonville behemoth has the scale, and therefore the ability, to save more natural resources than any other company in the industry in its effort to sell products that are sourced and produced with people and planet in mind. It uses recyclable materials in the packaging of all its private label products, and its Project Gigaton, which helps suppliers reduce emissions, is on track to reduce greenhouse gases by one billion tons by 2030, three times the amount produced by California in a year, or the equivalent of taking 211 million cars off U.S. highways for a year.

A growing number of brands believe that ethical conduct, like charity, begins at home. Bombas, a New York-based sock brand, gives away a pair of socks to a homeless shelter for every pair it sells. Made in USA Success story American Giant, whose fans call its $89 classic zipped hooded sweatshirt the best hoodie ever made, appeals to those who want to help U.S. industry survive and thrive.
Expanding the Narrative
Enabled by technology and increased access to consumers through e-commerce and social media platforms, marketers are embarking on education and awareness-building campaigns, expanding their narrative and sharing much more about how products come to be. We will see more information about the industry being shared with consumers as the landscape evolves towards a more sustainable and ethical future.

Rag & Bone and AYR are two lifestyle brands proud of their fair-trade supply policies. Yoga brand Prana has gained tremendous traction since evolving entirely to organic cotton and recycled wool and other fibers. Its website and shops contain a wealth of information about the materials it uses and company-wide fair-trade sustainability practices.

Patagonia, considered by many the poster child for environmental and social responsibility, has as its brand mission statement, "Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis." It is fair-trade certified for all its sewing product, and publicly discloses its first-tier suppliers. The company prides itself on its long-lasting products, and founder Yvon Chouinard encourages consumers not to buy unnecessary amounts of clothes, and has been wearing some of the same Patagonia pieces for a decade.
Putting the Brakes on Fast Fashion
An issue getting a lot of airtime these days is the sheer amount of waste humans create and fail to handle properly. A startling McKinsey 2016 report revealed that nearly three-fifths of all clothing ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made. The same report found that the number of garments produced each year has doubled since 2000, exceeding 100 billion for the first time since 2014, or 14 new clothing items for every person on earth.

Consumers are re-examining their tendency to over-buy and under-wear apparel. There is a growing backlash against Fast Fashion and the Disposable Apparel phenomenon. The philosophy of LA-based YSTR is to minimize waste through a creative purchasing process. Every piece is made to order, and their new model is a capsule "slow fashion" subscription, where the consumer can preview styles, order, and wait for items to arrive. The creation of clothing in small batches does away with the waste of creating too many items that go unpurchased.

Fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara are trying to diminish the black and white nature of cheaper versus environmentally-friendly purchases. In early 2017, both pulled out of the annual Dhaka Apparel Summit, sending a message that they will join efforts to pressure Bangladesh into ending poor working conditions and human rights violations in their garment industry. Zara parent Inditex reportedly has a team of 150 sustainability professionals.
Born-Again Fashion
Environmentalists are praising companies that promote the sharing of clothing, like "Rent the Runway," to reduce the waste accumulated by dresses and outfits, particularly special occasion styles, that tend to be worn only once or twice. Resale sites such as Poshmark, The RealReal and ThredUp have scaled rapidly, appealing to both buyers seeking value and sellers who want to monetize items they no longer want.

The affordable LA-based, eco-conscious label Reformation has earned a growing following by being endorsed by celebrities like Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss. Reformation began by selling re-worked vintage pieces in 2009, and now sells everything from party dresses to casual everyday pieces. Everything produced by Reformation is made at the brand's factory with sustainable fabrics and methods.
Will Consumers Pay More?
It's a tough call to say whether or not consumers, in addition to spending more time and effort to seek out brands and products that were produced responsibly, will also pay extra for the privilege of buying them.

Purchasing one high-quality t-shirt that was ethically sourced, will last for three years, but cost forty dollars could be a far sounder choice than buying one for $15 that will last six months, but how many consumers will make that decision while shopping? Although studies citing consumer willingness to pay more for better quality products abound, there is insufficient data so far to confirm that they're actually doing so. It could turn out that ethical practices become a price of entry for brands and retailers that want to do business with savvy young consumers.

Late last year, in a very public announcement accompanied by representatives from the Humane Society and Fur-Free Alliance, Gucci said it was replacing the kangaroo fur in its popular fur-lined loafers with more-ethical shearling. Although the material changed, the price of the shoes, at a cool $995, didn't.

While Gucci's gesture was a success, taking the ethical route doesn't necessarily guarantee a following. Zady, a high-profile sustainable fashion e-commerce brand worn by Emma Watson recently closed down its site, no doubt a victim to the higher costs and intensified competition in the e-commerce space.

How Are Brands Ensuring Ethical Production Processes Are Being Followed?

Fashion products are produced in a very complex supply chain in which many transgressions can hide. Although improvements in sourcing transparency, labeling and compliance have been made in the past several years, it's hard for brands and retailers to truly know for sure where, how and of what their products are made. They can't visit every factory, or look over their agents' shoulders every second, to make sure their demands are being met.

Although compliance efforts have increased dramatically in recent years, cheating has, as well. At the same time, however, there has been a rise in companies partnering with Bluesign, Oekotex and other firms that certify compliance with standards. The Textile Exchange, ClimateWorks, Ethical Fashion Forum and many, many other organizations are advancing thought leadership and progress in these areas. Each year, a growing number of conferences, leadership initiatives and campaigns are being launched to advance progress in these areas.

No longer just a side project for a staff person with not enough to do, sustainability and ethical practices are now becoming line management responsibilities. Kering's CSO, or Chief Sustainability Officer, drives a results-oriented approach at the luxury goods giant. Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger parent PVH has placed the responsibility of environmental and human rights stewardship under its Chief Risk Officer.
Faux-Pas
What happened to Missguided, a brand popular for its ethical sourcing promise and female empowerment vibe, could serve as a cautionary tale. Last year the Humane Society International discovered cat fur on a pair of the brand's high heels. Dog and cat fur have been banned for use in clothing across the European Union since 2009, which means that the shoes had been sourced illegally. It turns out that real fur is cheaper to source than faux fur in some Asian countries, opening the door for suppliers to switch to the more economical option.

Further complicating the fur issue is that much of the faux fur on the market is made from non-biodegradable and chemical-laden synthetic fibers and other materials such as nylon, acrylic, and polyester. Similarly, many fake leather products are made from plastic materials that are non-biodegradable and produced using toxic chemicals that not only have a negative impact on the environment, but they could have detrimental effects on the factory workers that helped produce the items. By blindly choosing to be good to our four-legged friends, a designer might be harming people and planet. As consumers become more educated and savvy about the true impacts of the materials they wear, brands must be more careful about their raw materials choices.

Stepping into the world of ethical fashion is not without its potential pitfalls, but the all-powerful consumer will increasingly set the bar higher, demanding that companies behave responsibly and according to a shared set of values. Brands rising to meet those expectations could find that the view is every bit worth the climb.

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Beyond Sustainable: The Growing Demand for Ethical Fashion - The Robin Report

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When Vogue Australia quietly hit the newsstands in its home country and abroad earlier this month, its theme, which as recently as three years ago would have raised eyebrows among serious fashion-watchers, caused nary a ripple of controversy.

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(22.06.19 - 11.08.19)
My action plan and completion of tasks developed over time as the rate at which tasks were accomplished changed as I progressed. Furthermore, I was able to complete the majority of tasks before work placement in comparison to my initial plan, which meant I was constantly developing my planning ahead.

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Sustainability in UK Retail - GlobalData

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Sustainability in UK Retail - GlobalData

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This report showed the key trends within sustainability currently and identified surveyed opinions. This report was important to understand the consumers views in terms of sustainability and the most effective ways of communicating this. Helpful information included the importance of consumers understanding where clothing is manufactured and that they consider the ethics which supported my supplier reasoning.

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Consumer confidence hits five-year low as Brexit uncertainty bites

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Consumer confidence hits five-year low as Brexit uncertainty bites

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Article regarding consumer confidence.

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Consumer confidence has slumped to a five-year low as Brexit uncertainty left shoppers fearing for the stability of the UK economy in the months ahead.

The GfK index, which is used by the European commission to judge consumer confidence, fell to -14 in December, down from -13 in the previous month and -10 in October.

The monthly monitor showed that most of the fall was fuelled by fears for the UK economy rather than consumers' concerns about their personal finances.

However, Joe Staton, of GfK, said: "In the face of ever-rising costs, and the threat of higher inflation combined with uncertainty around the outcome of the Brexit negotiations, consumers are in a chilly mood of despondency and putting on a glum face when they look at the prospects for 2019."

The decline in confidence mirrored results from high street chains including Boots, which said underlying sales at its pharmacies slid 3.5% while retail sales were down 2.6% in the three months to end of November.

The health and beauty chain's owner, Walgreens Boots Alliance, blamed a "very weak retail environment" in the UK. It said profits fell by 2.5%, excluding the impact of exchange rate changes and exceptional items, including the sale of the chain's manufacturing division.

Last week the Sports Direct founder, Mike Ashley, complained that retailers had experienced their worst November on record.

However, official UK figures for November were more buoyant after reports from retailers of a bounce back in sales after declines in the previous two months.

The Office for National Statistics said heavy discounting by online retailers on Black Friday and Cyber Monday drove a sharp rise in sales of 4K TVs, laptops and high-end smartphones.

The surge in online spending, which surprised the City after doom-laden reports by retailers, pushed the quantity of goods bought last month up by 1.4% compared with October. The annual increase hit 3.6%.

Retail analysts said the reliance by the ONS on smaller retailers in its survey skewed the results. Nick Bubb, an independent analyst, said: "Yet again the ONS retail sales figures are grossly inflated by improbably good growth for 'small businesses'. And yet again the ONS doesn't think the divergence against the weak performance of 'large businesses' is worth commenting on."

Howard Archer, the chief economic adviser to the EY Item Club, said: "There are bound to be suspicions about the November data, given that the ONS has acknowledged that it is not easy to seasonally adjust for Black Friday data given the changing nature of promotions.

"Furthermore, the underlying performance of retail sales still looks lacklustre, with volumes up a modest 0.4% in the three months to November compared to the three months to August."
Topics

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Consumer confidence hits five-year low as Brexit uncertainty bites

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Consumer confidence has slumped to a five-year low as Brexit uncertainty left shoppers fearing for the stability of the UK economy in the months ahead. The GfK index, which is used by the European commission to judge consumer confidence, fell to -14 in December, down from -13 in the previous month and -10 in October.

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What is PESTLE Analysis? PESTLE analysis, which is sometimes referred to as PEST analysis, is a concept in marketing principles. Moreover, this concept is used as a tool by companies to track the environment they're operating in or are planning to launch a new project/product/service, etc. So, let's find out what these letters stand for first.

PESTLE is a mnemonic which in its expanded form denotes P for Political, E for Economic, S for Social, T for Technological, L for Legal, and E for Environmental. It gives a bird's eye view of the whole environment from many different angles that one wants to check and keep a track of while contemplating a certain idea/plan.

The PESTEL framework has undergone certain alterations, as gurus of Marketing have added certain things like an E for Ethics to instill the element of demographics while utilizing the framework while researching the market.

Asking the Right Questions

There are certain questions that one needs to ask while conducting this analysis, which gives them an idea of what things to keep in mind. They are:

What is the political situation of the country and how can it affect the industry?

What are the prevalent economic factors?

How much importance does culture have in the market and what are its determinants?

What technological innovations are likely to pop up and affect the market structure?

Are there any current legislations that regulate the industry or can there be any change in the legislations for the industry?

What are the environmental concerns for the industry?

All the aspects of this technique are crucial for any industry a business might be in. More than just understanding the market, this framework represents one of the vertebras of the backbone of strategic management that not only defines what a company should do but also accounts for an organization's goals and the strategies stringed to them.

It may be so, that the importance of each of the factors may be different to different kinds of industries, but it is imperative to any strategy a company wants to develop that they conduct the PESTLE analysis as it forms a much more comprehensive version of the SWOT analysis. If you don't know what is a SWOT analysis, we have you covered.

It is very critical for one to understand the complete depth of each of the letters of the PESTLE.

Political factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors determine the extent to which a government may influence the economy or a certain industry. For example, a government may impose a new tax or duty due to which entire revenue generating structures of organizations might change. Political factors include tax policies, Fiscal policy, trade tariffs, etc. that a government may levy around the fiscal year and it may affect the business environment (economic environment) to a great extent.

Economic factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors are determinants of an economy's performance that directly impacts a company and have resonating long term effects. For example, a rise in the inflation rate of any economy would affect the way companies price their products and services. Adding to that, it would affect the purchasing power of a consumer and change demand/supply models for that economy. Economic factors include inflation rate, interest rates, foreign exchange rates, economic growth patterns, etc. It also accounts for the FDI (foreign direct investment) depending on certain specific industries who're undergoing this analysis.

Social factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors scrutinize the social environment of the market, and gauge determinants like cultural trends, demographics, population analytics, etc. An example of this can be buying trends for Western countries like the US where there is high demand during the Holiday season.

Technological factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors pertain to innovations in technology that may affect the operations of the industry and the market favorably or unfavorably. This refers to automation, research and development, and the amount of technological awareness that a market possesses.

Legal factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors have both external and internal sides. There are certain laws that affect the business environment in a certain country while there are certain policies that companies maintain for themselves. Legal analysis takes into account both of these angles and then charts out the strategies in light of these legislations. For example, consumer laws, safety standards, labor laws, etc.

Environmental factors in PESTLE Analysis

These factors include all those that influence or are determined by the surrounding environment. This aspect of the PESTLE is crucial for certain industries particularly for example tourism, farming, agriculture, etc. Factors of a business environmental analysis include but are not limited to climate, weather, geographical location, global changes in climate, environmental offsets, etc.

There are many templates available for companies to conduct PESTLE analysis. Many organizations have provided information regarding their PESTLE analysis as case studies available on the Internet.
Image: dizain/Shutterstock.com and DepositPhotos

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What is PESTLE Analysis? An Important Business Analysis Tool

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Ever wondered what is PESTLE Analysis? That's an analytical tool that stands for Political, Economic, Social, Technological, Legal and Environmental analysis.

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Use phone for fashion: 77% of Millennials and Gen Z use their phones to browse fashion and 68% use them to buy fashion.
Sustainability: “Environmental sustainability is important to these shoppers (Millennials & Gen Z). More than three-quarters (76.7%) say it is either very or quite important."

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Between them, Generation Z and millennials - broadly, shoppers in their late teens, twenties and thirties - attract endless attention, and represent fashion's consumers of both the present and future.
In this report, Drapers takes an in-depth look at how the two groups are changing, and how they feel about the fashion industry. What are the similarities between them, what are the differences, and where are the opportunities for brands designing and making clothes for these groups?

We also speak to a range of retailers about how they are creating propositions that appeal to these shoppers, and the feedback that they hear from them.

It is all too easy to become fixated on a certain age range, and younger shoppers are often the group of choice for retailers. They are, after all, the shoppers of the future, and brands that do not evolve alongside them are unlikely to survive long term. But while this report is aimed at delving into younger people's likes and dislikes, the aim is not to depict these shoppers as being more important than or even dramatically different to many of their older counterparts.

Many of the trends we observe in their changing behaviour are happening just as strongly for people over 40 as they are for those under. People's interests and tastes are rarely determined solely by their age, and Gen Z is no different.

But even with that in mind, it is interesting to watch a particular generation evolve, and determining what matters to them is still a worthwhile activity. Furthermore, much of the change we observe across all consumer groups is often driven by or more strongly represented among the young, whose strength of feeling about issues of the day can be greater than older generations.

One thing is clear, and that is the emergence of a more values-led, purpose-driven approach to fashion. Younger shoppers may not want to or are not yet able to pay more for ethically made items, but that doesn't mean they don't want them. In addition, the digital and multichannel shifts of the past two decades are not over yet. There is still plenty of work to do to meet those expectations.

Beyond the shifts in behaviour, it is heartening to see that younger shoppers are not disillusioned with fashion: most still see it as fun and inspiring, as well as a chance to express themselves, and they appreciate any brand attempting to keep up with them ethically. They appreciate even more those who are leading the way.

Having come of age during turbulent economic years and having never known life without the internet, they have little patience for rules and conventions that were designed for a different time. Gen Z and their older millennial brothers and sisters have the potential to make fashion an altogether better place to be: what brands need to do is exhibit a willingness to meet them there.

We hope you find the report useful. Please send any feedback or questions to rebecca.thomson@emap.com to help us continue improving our research into this group.

Rebecca Thomson, head of commercial content, Drapers

For the purposes of this report we define members of Generation Z as anyone born between 1995 and 2015, making the youngest four and the oldest 25. Millennials are those born between 1980 and 1995, and are roughly aged 26 to 38. We surveyed 2,000 consumers aged 18 to 38.

'Gen Z' has become just as much of a buzzword as 'millennial' did a few years ago, and is already synonymous with certain traits. If the headlines are to be believed, they are strident environmental activists, they are progressive, they are careful with money and they have short attention spans. But lumping such a broad, diverse group into one amorphous age bracket is a mistake.

Jonathan Reynolds, a retail and ecommerce expert at the University of Oxford says: "It's right to disaggregate Generation Z. We are wrong to use age definitions and put everyone into one age bracket. People have different contexts, motivations and there are different sub-groups within that demographic."

It is also easy to get swept away by the perceived newness of a fresh group of teenagers. But in many ways, Gen Z and millennials have similar patterns of behaviour to young people of previous generations.

To begin with, there is a larger, more mainstream group who watches what the Kardashians wear and is hooked on Love Island, and makes purchasing decisions that are driven by upcoming holidays and Saturday nights out. And there is also a much smaller, albeit articulate and vocal, more alternative group that is perhaps more progressive, and sometimes more controversial. This is best represented in 2019 by 16-year-old Swedish activist Greta Thunberg. Her emergence as a leader in this space is helped by the fact that anyone aged 25 or under is unlikely to remember the most significant events of the previous decade, such as 9/11 or the Iraq war. Terrorism was the defining issue as millennials entered adulthood ten years ago, but as this fades slightly in the collective memory, climate change is taking its place.

Reynolds says the activist group is the most interesting part of Gen Z, because they're exhibiting new kinds of behaviour. "They're not being influenced by big brands. They're very much a smaller subset of Generation Z but they're articulate and loud, so we hear a lot about them. And they probably have the brands more worried. If it grows, it's dangerous to brands because they often dont have the flexibility to shift."

What is different about Gen Z as a cohort, however, is they are the first group to have grown up with social media and related digital technologies, and this is creating new rules for how things get done. It has given them a new set of communication tools, which they are extremely adept at using, and which enables messages such as Greta's to spread faster and with more intensity than they might have a few years ago. The amplified impact and speed of change this has enabled means that Kylie Jenner is a billionaire by the age of 21, and global leaders are listening to Greta's every word.

In some ways, this is a re-labelling of trends that have gone before. What has changed, however, is access to information and virtual relationships.

Jonathan Reynolds, University of Oxford

Reynolds says any changes that do occur for this generation are tending to proliferate faster than they have in the past: "By and large, we have seen greater transparency for all those subsets than in previous generations because of technology and electronic word of mouth.

"In some ways, this is a re-labelling of trends that have gone before. What has changed, however, is access to information and virtual relationships."

But while Kylie Jenner and Greta Thunberg represent drastically divergent cultural trends, their followers are not necessarily different people. It is possible to be interested in celebrities while also being interested in sustainability; it is also possible to care about sustainability while engaging in unsustainable behaviours, partly because it is often simply not possible to make ethical consumption choices. Plus, younger shoppers do appear to want two very different things. "On the one hand, they're very idealistic," says Pamela Church-Gibson, the author of Fashion and Celebrity Culture. " But that is diametrically opposed to the fact we have got a lot of people who just want to buy cheap clothes online."

The other thing to note about Gen Z and Millennials is that they are growing in confidence. They are natural online communicators and their talent is being applied to topics other than sustainability - they are diverse, inclusive and they question norms. "What also strikes me about this group is its confidence," says Reynolds. "They're realistic, they're pragmatic and they engage in dialogue rather than protesting for the sake of it."

Contradictions

What is difficult, Reynolds says, is that some members of these generations want to shop with fully sustainable brands who are helping to change the status quo, but they also want immediacy and convenience in how they access any product. They want constant newness and immediate gratification, but they acknowledge the system that enables that is not environmentally feasible. "There is a contradiction - certain people are doing both things."

This means that, even as consumers lead this shift towards a more sustainable way of making and selling fashion, there may also need to be a concerted educational effort to ensure these young shoppers realise that this may mean some loss of convenience and increased effort from them; perhaps buying fewer, higher quality items per year may be necessary, and recycling clothes they are finished with is a must.

Reynolds says that for some, this is starting to translate into different ways of consuming. "My son, who is 23, is less concerned about ownership. The stuff he does have is very different and unusual - he places a premium on finding things that aren't very popular. That's a challenge for brands used to dealing with large chunks of the population."

Loyalty

While these trends play out, shoppers continue to interact day-to-day with the fashion industry. Hearteningly, our data shows that broadly, consumers appear to feel fairly positive about fashion. They report finding it fun and inspiring, and they see it as an opportunity for self expression.

Broadly, do you feel the fashion world is:

Despite having a reputation for lacking brand loyalty, this cohort doesn't necessarily think of itself as disloyal. They are, however, always on the lookout for new brands - possibly related to that desire for uniqueness. Over a third said they consider themselves loyal shoppers, and a half said they are 'relatively' loyal. Only 16% of shoppers said they rarely return to a brand.

Would you describe yourself as loyal to brands?

In the rest of this report we explore the shopping behaviours currently exhibited by Gen Z and millennials - as well as what they like and dislike about the propositions on offer.

Convenience scores highly for younger shoppers, who have high expectations surrounding it. More than half say the convenience of online shopping is its biggest appeal, and when asked what they would like to see more of, convenience-focused services are the most popular options.

Their biggest bugbears relating to online shopping are all delivery related: having to wait for a delivery, missing deliveries and paying for delivery or returns are the most annoying factors.

This area is a huge focus for the retailers we spoke to: see chapter 6, on convenience, for their comments on how they are developing their delivery and payment services.

What do you enjoy about online shopping?

What would you like to see more from brands online?

Improving fit technology is also a priority for this group, who seem clear on the benefits of sharing size data with retailers in return for better-fitting items and less returns administration.

But as Mike Branney, managing director of young fashion etailer Oh Polly, says, the technology has further to go: "Improving online fit technology is important but it's still quite gimmicky at the moment. When the systems move more towards virtual avatars with a combination of augmented reality, it will become a much more useful tool that people will actually choose to engage with."

What do you tend to find most annoying about online shopping?

Payment is another significant part of the process for these shoppers: 82% say it is either very or quite important. It has been an area of focus for retailers for years.

Nicola Thompson, global customer development director at Asos, says convenience and removing friction from the shopping experience is a priority: "That's why we offer 'buy now, pay later' through Klarna to give customers a chance to try product on without having to pay for it, and our premier delivery service that offers unlimited next-day delivery for just £9.99 a year.

"We're constantly following customer demand, bringing in new payment or delivery options as they become available, such as our same-day delivery proposition, Asos Instant in London, Leeds, Manchester and Birmingham."

How important is a quick checkout process to you when deciding if you will make a purchase or return to a retailer?

Comprehensive and descriptive product information is also important: 95% of people read product descriptions either every time or sometimes.

Do you read product descriptions when shopping online?

Most people read them for information on how an item fits - perhaps mining them for as much information as possible in the absence of advanced fit tech - but shoppers also look for information on the materials and methods used in manufacture.

Do you read the descriptions for:

Buying from overseas brands is also popular, despite the taxes and fees that can sometimes apply. Nearly 60% purchase from overseas brands either sometimes or often.

Do you ever get clothing, shoes or accessories shipped from overseas?

Simon Kinsey, commercial director at TranslateMedia, which helps retailers translate and adapt their brands for new markets, says this is the first generation of global online shoppers. "Gen Zs and millennials are happy to order from overseas brands and they expect the experience to be authentic, personal yet consistent. It is a tricky proposition for retailers to balance an online experience which takes different local cultures into account alongside the need for consistency relating to fit and delivery."

He adds that global content platforms are starting to become more flexible, which is helping to serve this global demand. "It's now possible for product descriptions to 'write themselves' using content asset data derived from product photography, fabric and washing instructions which means that copywriters can spend more time crafting their brand message to appeal to local trends for online shoppers."

For our shoppers, the main reasons behind the desire to buy overseas include cheaper product, and finding those unique items.

Why do you often shop for clothing, shoes or accessories internationally?

When it comes to store shopping, Generation Z and millennials like having the ability to try things on, the social aspect, and the ability to browse and get inspiration. This is consistent with other age groups.

Just as predictable are the elements of store shopping they do not like: crowds and sizes being out of stock.

What do you enjoy about shopping in store?

Retailers' store strategies are changing in response to this to focus more on the social and inspirational elements of store shopping.

Giorgina Waltier, sustainability manager at H&M UK and IE, says the retailer is "continually experimenting with new services" that go beyond the remit of traditional retail: "In many instances these new services tap into the development of our sustainability work and our ambition to become a circular business. For example, we recently launched a garment repair and embroidery service within selected H&M stores globally, to enable customers to increase the longevity of their clothes.

"We are also trialling the sale of eco-friendly washing detergents and microfibre-filter laundry bags - both of which are not products that we have traditionally sold but we see as important additions that meet changing customer needs."

She says H&M group is experimenting with the sale of vintage items at & Other Stories, and is also starting to work with advanced analytics to tackle over-production by creating more alignment between supply and demand. "This in turn will enable us to provide a more targeted, streamlined customer offer in our stores, freeing up more space to further test and experiment with new services."

Paul Forkan co-founded lifestyle brand Gandys with his brother Rob in 2012, and the brand has three stores in London. He says the brand's approach to store retailing has changed.

"In recent years the way we see our stores as part of our brand has definitely changed. Instead of being a main hub for sales they have become places where our community come to connect with our brand and the individuals that work in our shops."

He adds that people come in to not only get a feel for the product and fit, but to also get updates on the brand's charitable foundation, as well as advice and stories about travelling.

"With the current generation of young people spending less time on the high street, the challenge lies in creating this experience online," he says. "Technology will make this possible through chat rooms and live "digital try-ons" powered by web cams and artificial intelligence, but that is still a few years away from being opened up to the masses. For now, stores are still an essential part of the shopping experience, especially for those who care more for brands as a whole as opposed to just a single product."

What things do you not enjoy about shopping in store?

Potentially more concerning for some retailers is that 27% of respondents say they would stop going to stores altogether if the final issues with the online customer experience could be ironed out. A further 42% say they would be "quite likely" to abandon store shopping if all delivery was free and fast, and if they could envisage how an item would fit.

If all issues with online shopping could be erased, do you think you would cut out store shopping altogether?

However, this utopian ideal of online shopping is a way off yet - for now at least, stores provide a crucial way for consumers to meet their favourite brands in the physical world.

Environmental sustainability is important to these shoppers. More than three-quarters (76.7%) say it is either very or quite important. This is pretty consistent for every age range, although slightly more men rate it as very important (39.6%) than women (32.8%).

How important for you is it that a brand shows it is environmentally sustainable?

Equality in all its forms is just as important: 77.1% rate it as very or quite important. Only 9% say it is not important at all. All age groups are in agreement, but the 18-to-24-year-olds are particuarly focused on it: 82.7% say it is important to them and just under half say it is very important.

We wanted to know about all forms of equality, rather than only gender equality, because racism, and discrimination against LGBTQI and disabled people are just as important to many in this group. The efficacy of being vocal on these topics can be seen in the success of brands such as Levi's - a long-term supporter of LGBTQI equality - which has been driven by its ability to remain relevant to younger shoppers via its principles and its storytelling.

For you, how important is it that a brand shows it is pro-equality (across ethnicity, gender, sexuality or disability lines)

Nearly half of our respondents say they have at some point decided against a purchase because of a brand's lack of sustainability efforts. Retailers often report that customers do not appear to be willing to pay more for more ethically produced items, which makes it challenging to build a business case internally for investment in sustainable practices.

However, this suggests brands are losing sales to other, more sustainably driven retailers, which is a trend that will not be immediately visible in sales figures. The evidence was strongest among the 18-to-24-year-olds, of whom 55% say they had abandoned purchases. Men are also more likely to fail to complete purchases than women (54% versus 44%). There are also regional variations in how shoppers are approaching sustainability, with shoppers in the South East and London more likely to rate it as important. In London, 63% of shoppers reported having abandoned a purchase.

Have you ever abandoned a purchase because you felt that the brand didn't reflect your values on either sustainability or equality?

Nearly half of our respondents say they actively hunt out brands that are sustainable or vocal about equality. This supports the theory that demand for sustainable products and support for equality-focused brands may be invisible to some retailers at the moment, because rather than buying sustainable ranges from otherwise non-sustainable brands, shoppers are using their time and money to look for brands that align more comprehensively with their values.

While there may well be a gap between what people say they are doing, and what they are actually doing, this is nonetheless a trend to take seriously. The fact it is not always showing in sales figures yet could relate partly to the fact that shopping ethically and sustainably takes a significant amount of work and research on the part of the consumer. With comparatively few sustainable options available, it is also still hard for a customer to make sure their purchasing behaviour reflects their values - they may still be shopping unsustainably because choice is limited. Plus, retailers have an uphill battle when it comes to communicating their efforts. Few customers will know, for instance, that Primark's jeans are among the most sustainable available on the high street, and H&M is often accused of greenwashing, despite a 20 year effort to improve its sustainability credentials that significantly pre-dates the topic's current fashionable status. In addition, sustainability is not easy for retailers - it is a labyrinthine project that takes years to build expertise in, and is expensive to develop properly.

Simon Kinsey, commercial director at TranslateMedia, says customers' interest in equality can be seen in a current trend for product descriptions to be written in gender neutral language. "Demand for language neutrality is coming from international brands, often those in Benelux and Scandinavia specialising kids toys and accessories, adult sneakers and outdoor brands and, more recently, the skincare and beauty market. The trend for language neutrality is being closely tracked by brands in the UK and the US," he says.

Do you actively hunt for brands that are sustainable or vocal about furthering equality?

Shoppers' interest in sustainability is a trend that is backed up by search data. Over the last five years Google searches for the term "sustainable fashion" have been on a steady upward trend worldwide, with the biggest rises occuring in Australia, the UK, Hong Kong, Denmark and Singapore. Searches for the term "sustainable fashion brands" in the UK have rocketed by 450% since January 2016. Retailers such as US brands Everlane and Reformation are popular related terms, and both have experienced large rises in search volumes over a similar period.

However, while consumer interest in sustainable fashion is increasing, the retailers leading the way are not necessarily being driven by consumer demand.

Giorgina Waltier, sustainability manager at H&M UK and IE, says: "While it is truly brilliant that sustainability awareness has increased so significantly with consumers over the last couple of years, our commitment to and communication around sustainability is not consumer led.

"We started talking to our customers about sustainable materials back in 2011 when we launched our H&M Conscious line, about the importance of recycling clothes in 2013, when we launched our global in-store garment-recycling scheme, and about supply-chain transparency in 2013 when we were one of the first brands to publicly share our supplier list.

"So, communicating to customers about the importance of sustainability is not new for us. What is new is the increase in appetite for this information, and what we are still yet to master is a balance in the level and detail of information that we share with the consumer."

Generation Z and millennial shoppers are predictably high users of mobile and social channels, but it is interesting to see the extent of these habits. Just over 70% of respondents report shopping via mobile apps, and users return regularly to their favourite retail apps to check for new product and content.

Do you shop using mobile apps?

This tallies with the findings of our Connected Consumer report, published in late 2018. That found these shoppers are avid mobile users: 77% use their phones to browse fashion, and 68% use them to buy fashion. It also found that they like apps: nearly 80% have downloaded at least one retailer or brand app, while 23% have downloaded four or more.

Over 70% of our shoppers said that they have purchased via social - some of the brands we spoke to say they have seen this reflected in their sales figures.

James Gold, co-founder of accessories brand Skinnydip London, says: "We have noticed our social transactions increasing." He adds that it is something the brand is looking at in careful detail, using focus groups to determine the images, products and captions that are most effective.

"Skinnydip was born on social and it is where we engage with our customers on the most authentic level. We believe that Gen Z and millennial customers identify most with brands that share their values and are honest, so that's our main focus in providing genuine, engaging content."

He adds getting the mix right is important for different groups. Those in their thirties respond well to different posts from those in their twenties. However, some trends are more universal.

"We notice an increase in new customers on social especially around new collaboration launches, or when we produce IGTV [Instagram video] content."

Have you ever purchased from a brand by clicking through from a social post?

Asos has 23 million followers across its various social platforms, and is focusing on having engaging two-way conversations with them.

Global customer development director Nicola Thompson says: "We know that our twentysomething customers spend a lot of their time on their mobile phones and using social media, so that is where we need to be to having engaging, two-way conversations with them." The focus is on inspiring them on the channel, she adds.

The networks used by these shoppers are shifting quickly, but in late 2018, those aged 18 to 24 reported in our Connected Consumer report that 74% of them use Facebook and 70% use Instagram.

With missed deliveries or inconvenient services causing annoyance for younger online fashion shoppers (see chapter 1), focusing on convenience has become a significant priority for retailers.

James Gold, co-founder of accessories brand Skinnydip London, says it is an area the brand is constantly working on improving: "Within the last six months, we have launched Doodle returns options, collection point delivery and free collection from an selection our Skinnydip stores. For us, the delivery process is critical. When there are companies like Amazon as competitors, we know that we have to try to meet customers' expectations as best as we can."

He adds it also already offers a pay-later service with Klarna, and is looking at being able to "slice" payments, so shoppers can pay in instalments, in the coming months.

Jo Tutchener-Sharp, founder of Scamp & Dude, says the childrenswear brand is working on introducing free shipping: "We have been looking at how we can incorporate the fulfilment and shipping costs into the overheads so we can get rid of shipping costs for the customer, as I know this is an issue for some customers when large operators such as Amazon offer free shipping. But at the moment it's not viable to pay for the packing, fulfilment costs and shipping ourselves."

Other brands are looking even further into the future.

Mike Branney, managing director of Oh Polly says the young women's clothing brand is looking beyond buy now, pay later: "We offer 'buy now, pay later' on our site for UK customers, and plan to roll out the same service in the US and Australia in the next few months. We are also investigating accepting payments in electronic wallets and cryptocurrencies, although the latter is still not particularly mainstream."

Andrew Cooper, head of direct to consumer trading and operations at Pentland Brands, says: "We constantly review these two areas and have recently added more delivery options so consumers can order later in the day for next-day delivery. We have bespoke payment options for different regions, and we are actively looking at how we provide more payment choices."

In our survey, consumers report being keen on convenience-boosting services. Almost two-thirds say they add items to their baskets for pay day purchases, and 69% of respondents say they would be likely to bring purchases forward if they were able to defer payment.

How often do you add items to basket and then wait for payday to make the purchase?

How likely are you to bring a purchase forward if you could pause payment until payday?

How do you feel about making purchases using a deferred payment method?

However, reaction to the idea of another convenience-focused service, renting clothes, was more mixed. While nearly a third said they would like to rent clothes from their favourite brands, nearly half said they would not. One-fifth were undecided.

Oh Polly's Branney says the complexity of large-scale rental is off-putting: "Moving from a model that already sees return rates of 30% to 40% to a return rate of 100% would require a step change in process. The rental market is also better suited to outerwear and hard-wearing fabrics, as most materials lose their lustre and structure after a few washes."

While renting is a newer idea for some, a third of our shoppers still said it appeals. It is likely that for many brands, a rental service could be a part of their future. This is especially true for longer-wearing items, one-wear purchases such as wedding outfits, or items whose wearers grow out of them quickly, such as children's clothes. Rental also plays into consumers' desires for both convenience and sustainability.

Would you rent clothes if your favourite brands offered that service?

This is also an area of the market where innovation will continue to have an impact. The sharing and rental economy is evolving quickly - both in the UK, but also in markets including China, where some rental platforms include the option of peer-to-peer rental. In the UK, it is an area where further development is likely to take place and where consumer attitudes could evolve quickly.

The behaviour of millennials and GenZs has already had a huge influence on the retail market.

They are proficient in navigating multiple channels, comfortable engaging with brands on social media and accustomed to broadcasting opinions about their shopping experiences online.

Both groups share an appetite for cross-border shopping if it means that they can buy distinctive products that are not available locally, but are also concerned with the methods of manufacture and that they are ethically sourced and sustainable. Product fit is also of huge importance and they spend time reading product descriptions to check measurements and materials. They also tend to lack the brand loyalty displayed by previous generations which means that retailers are faced with increased competition both locally and from abroad and have to work harder than ever before to produce the high-quality product descriptions and editorial content they need to stand out from their competitors.

At TranslateMedia, we specialise in translation and the cultural adaptation of content for brands and retailers to ensure quality and brand tone-of-voice consistency.

TranslateMedia develops technology to seamlessly integrate with all of the major CMSs and eCommerce platforms - drastically reducing localisation turnaround times, increasing speed to market and boosting ROI from global marketing campaigns.
Simon Kinsey, Commercial Director, TranslateMedia

It's no secret that the younger generations hold the key to the future of retail.

In an era of instant gratification, same day delivery, and the ability to shop through social channels, younger consumers expect a completely different and totally tailored shopping experience, that brands need to fulfill.

Klarna's research into the future of fashion technology has shown over half (53%) of fashion shoppers aged 16-24 would be happy for a retailer to use their online data to offer tailored discounts or recommendations. While more than one in five (22%) would like to be able to leave a store and pay for items later once they've decided what to keep. It's a different world now to what retailers have been catering to over the last 20 years.

But while retailers need to ensure they truly understand the demands of younger tech-driven shoppers, this approach can't be limited to those in a certain age bracket. We know that experience is the lifeblood of the retail economy, so offering the best experience whether through flexible payments, or a smooth returns process, solely to those in a certain age bracket would be an error.

Experience really is the new loyalty, and a truly tailored experience from perusal to payment needs to be embedded into a retailer's shopping cycle, for all consumers young and old.
Luke Griffiths, General Manager of Klarna UK

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Between them, Generation Z and millennials - broadly, shoppers in their late teens, twenties and thirties - attract endless attention, and represent fashion's consumers of both the present and future. In this report, Drapers takes an in-depth look at how the two groups are changing, and how they feel about the fashion industry.

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