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Closed Loop and Open Loop Wool Recycling Process

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https://iwto.org/sustainability/recycled-wool/

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Wool is a natural fiber shorn from mainly sheep and rabbits. Wool is biodegradable, wrinkle resistant, and thermo-regulating properties. Being such a versatile fiber, wool is the most used and recycled fabric by volume.

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Wool Structure and Composition

https://www.woolmark.com/fibre/

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Created from shorter fibers of a sheep's fleece, spun into yarn

Used to make thick heavyweight woven and knitted garments

Ideal for warmer winter jackets and sweaters

Can be dyed at the fibre, yarn, fabric, or garment stage

Sourcing

Fibers must be washed to remove dirt, wool wax, sweat, and skin pieces

Wool is washed in a detergent solution, rinsed, then dried

Blending

Happens early in the processing stage

Combines wool from various bales to create a more even and uniform throughout

Woollen Spinning

Little stretching before twisting

Survives the spinning process

Knitting, Weaving, and Non-woven fabric

Once wool is processed and spun it can be transformed into:

Knitting used to create fabric

Weaving interlacing warp and weft yarns in a weaving machine or loom

Non-woven fabric like felting used to form layers of fibres into one coherent fabric

https://www.woolmark.com/industry/product-development/wool-processing/

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Worsted Left, Woollen Right after processing

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Highest quality wool taken before shearing, longest wool fiber

Makes flatter, lighter and smoother fabrics, used in traditional tailoring

Blending and scouring process is the same as woollen

Gilling

Before worsted yarn can be spin the slivers needs to be gilled or straightened the fibers by stretching the slivers

Combing removes the short fibers and any

This also preps the fibers for the combing process

This process gives the wool a more uniform weight

Combing

Clamped fibers are pinned to a cylinder that straightens the long fibers, removes the short fibers, nep and vegetable matter

The cleaned fringe is then gripped and drawn through a single strip of very fine pins to complete the cleaning of the back end of the fibers

The fringes are recombined to form a sliver, and repeated 2-3 times to create a cleaner sliver ready to be roving

Roving

Before the wool can enter into the spinning stage is must be reduced to 40 times thinner by drawing it down into a finer sliver

Once roving is complete, it is then spun to form worsted yarn

Spinning

Ring spinning- most common for the worsted and woollen industries, continuous spinning

Mule Spinning- machine, intermittent spinning

Open-end short staple spinning- used for cotton blends

Dyeing, Knitting, Weaving and Non-woven fabric follow the same process as Woollen processing

https://www.woolmark.com/industry/product-development/wool-processing/

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Patagonia used recycled wool in 12% of its S/S 21 range, reducing its fabric C02 emissions by 83% versus virgin fibre

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Recycling Wool reduced land and water usage, lowering the demand for livestock, which inturns reduces the damage done land from over crowing

This also reduced emissions and minimizes textile waste and encourages a circular economy.

Regeneratively farmed fibre could transform wool industries. The practice actively aids the environment by improving soil, sequestering carbon and promoting biodiversity

https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/92112

https://www.asustainablecloset.com/home/material-guide-recycled-wool#:~:text=Mulesing%2DFree%3A%20Since%20recycled%20wool,ethical%20alternative%20to%20traditional%20wool.

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The removal of folds of skin from the hindquarters of sheep, primarily to reduce the risk of flystrike, a condition caused by blowfly larvae infesting the sheep's flesh. Mulesing is painful and often carried out without adequate anesthesia, which has led to strong opposition from animal rights groups and concerned consumers.

https://www.asustainablecloset.com/home/material-guide-recycled-wool#:~:text=Mulesing%2DFree%3A%20Since%20recycled%20wool,ethical%20alternative%20to%20traditional%20wool.

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Insulation

Fabric Padding

New Garments

Upholstery

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https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/64756#page_7

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The closed loop system: A mechanical process that returns garments to the raw fibre state and turns the fibre into yarn again, to produce new products (particularly suitable for wool knitwear).

The open loop system: Here, the wool from a previous product becomes the basis for a new, usually industrial product such as insulation or mattress padding.

Re-engineering: Getting creative, companies recycle old or unsold items into new products, like making a bag from an old woollen jacket, or using production waste such as trimmings to make other items. Wool is valuable! Very little wool goes to waste.

https://iwto.org/sustainability/recycled-wool/

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Overcrowding, use of water, inhuman conditions

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Overcrowding, use of water, inhuman conditions

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Sheep

Cashmere

Mohair

Alpaca

Llama

Vicüna

Guanaco

Camel

Yak

Angora

https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/92112#page3

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Increase in sales, increase the need for livestock resulting in a larger CO2 footprint.

The increase in wool sales has led to degradation, even desertification of grasslands in China and Mongolia, threatening livestock and herder welfare

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Nau

https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/64756#page_7

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Lanificio Becagli

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Marzotto, Italian clothing brand using recycled wool, and wool from factory floors making sure no wool fibers are wasted

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https://iwto.org/recycled-wool/

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RECYCLED WOOL - International Wool Textile Organisation

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Discover sustainable style with Recycled Wool: Eco-friendly, cozy, and conscious fashion choices. Shop now!

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Brands using Recycled Wool: Stella McCartney

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Brands using Recycled Wool: Stella McCartney

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Stella McCartney

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Regenerated Cashmere at Stella McCartney

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Brands using Recycled Wool: AllBirds High Performance Wool

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Brands using Recycled Wool: AllBirds High Performance Wool

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https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/92112#page13