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These visual research images were taken in the first 6 weeks of the FMP process. I challenged myself to take at least one photo each time I travelled into London. Although there is only 6 images, I was made aware of how popular streetwear items are amongst consumers.

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As part of my primary research I have conducted a survey through Google Forms. This survey needs over a minimum of 100 respondents to make it valid. I will be posting the link to the survey on Linkdln, Instagram & it will also be sent round via email to students & teachers.

Participants are all 18+ and have given consent for me to use the data collected and can tick the box within the survey. They also do not have to answer every question if they do not wish to.

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1PT0HxRwWFLMPe0KhQWYFptuclbhTYgrW6y4R77GTpRc/edit

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BOOK - THE NEW LUXURY: HIGHSNOBIETY: DEFINING THE ASPIRATIONAL IN THE AGE OF HYPE

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BOOK - THE NEW LUXURY: HIGHSNOBIETY: DEFINING THE ASPIRATIONAL IN THE AGE OF HYPE

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BOOK - THIS IS NOT FASHION: STREETWEAR PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE 

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BOOK - THIS IS NOT FASHION: STREETWEAR PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE 

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https://www.strategyand.pwc.com/de/en/industries/consumer-markets/streetwear/streetwear-the-new-exclusivity.pdf

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Paris Fashion Week: Men's Need-to-Know S/S 24

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Paris Fashion Week: Men's Need-to-Know S/S 24

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https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/649abe4ae1274ce73fc3cfae

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FORBES ARTICLE - STREETWEAR COLLABORATING WITH ANDY WARHOL GRAPHICS

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FORBES ARTICLE - STREETWEAR COLLABORATING WITH ANDY WARHOL GRAPHICS

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https://www.forbes.com/sites/adamlehrer/2015/05/29/streetwear-brand-wesc-collaborates-with-the-andy-warhol-foundation-on-exclusive-line/?sh=6a671f84372f

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With his embrace of high and low culture, celebration of youthful misfits, and deep love of small sub-cultures, it should be no surprise that Andy Warhol remains an icon to artistic youth cultures decades after the late artist's death in 1987. One of those sub-cultures that heils to King Warhol is skateboarding; skateboard companies like (now-defunct) Alien Workshop have used Warhol graphics, skate-influenced streetwear titan Supreme has used Warhol graphics, skaters' occasional sneaker of choice Converse Chuck Taylor has used Warhol graphics. And it makes sense: much like Warhol's Factory, skateboarding has always attracted a certain merry band of artistic youngsters. Come to think of it, with skaters like Ed Templeton and Marc Gonzalez having become just as famous for their art and skaters like Jason Dill establishing art-inflected brands like F**king Awesome, it's very easy to imagine today's skateboarders fitting right in with Lou Reed, Gerard Malanga, Edie Sedgwick, and the rest of Warhol's Factory Superstars.

And that brings us to skate-influenced streetwear brand WeSC and its most recent collection, "Warhol Conspiracy." The line includes button down shirts, nylon jackets, sweatpants, hoodies, graphic T-shirts, skateboard decks, bags and backpacks, hats, socks, underwear, belts, iPhone cases, and headphones all featuring Warhol's camouflage paintings as prints along with portraits of and quotes from Warhol. The collection was presented as an art show last night at the Paul Kasmin gallery with a nice mix of skateboard kids, fashionistas, and artists showing up to check out the new line. Whether or not you'd actually wear the clothes, by presenting them in the gallery WeSC suceeded in showing off the pieces as objects and also shed light on the skateboarding subculture's deep appreciation of Andy Warhol.

A collaboration with Warhol might seem obvious to art fans; Warhol obviously isn't lacking in exposure. But it might ring surprising to skateboarders. Take WeSC's previous collaboration with Clint Peterson; Clint Peterson is, in addition to being an artist, a skateboarder. A Warhol collaboration allows for the skateboarding sub-culture to both celebrate his artistic legacy but also perhaps introduce that legacy to a younger and less-informed generation of skaters: "WeSC is proud to present this product line in collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation," says WeSC Chairman Theodor Dalenson in a press release, "We have had many interesting artist and activist collaborations throughout the years but none have been as right on the spot for the brand of "Intellectual Slackers" as Andy Warhol's Camouflages."

The idea of the "Intellectual Slacker" is particularly interesting and an easy way to draw a connection between Warhol and modern skateboarders. To the establishment, Warhol was nothing more than a weirdo hanging out with junkies appropriating images from mass marketing, but in fact was revolutionizing the way that we think about said mass marketing and developing the whole concept of "pop art." To the establishment, a skateboarder is a stoner that rolls on wood all day, but in fact every movement and trick done on a skateboard requires one to think about the architectural landscape around them differently and incorporating varying levels of creativity into every trick, "Andy Warhol is one of the original "Intellectual Slackers" because of all of his activities; he was doing his own thing," says WeSC CEO Johan Heijbel, "He wasn't doing anything necessarily academic, he was creating his own vision and his own lifestyle."

From a branding stand point, the collection is sharp; WeSC gears itself towards youthful outsiders, or at least those who think of themselves as outsiders. What better way to get new eyes on your outsider-edged brand than by celebrating a true outsider icon like Warhol?

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Streetwear Brand WeSC Collaborates with the Andy Warhol Foundation on Exclusive Line

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And that brings us to skate-influenced streetwear brand WeSC and its most recent collection, "Warhol Conspiracy." The line includes button down shirts, nylon jackets, sweatpants, hoodies, graphic T-shirts, skateboard decks, bags and backpacks, hats, socks, underwear, belts, iPhone cases, and headphones all featuring Warhol's camouflage paintings as prints along with portraits of and quotes from Warhol.

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The EKB model of consumer behavior analyses the consumers decision making theory when purchasing from a brand and the process of this.

The Engel Kollat Blackwell Model is a consumer behavior model of the cognitive process that helps to predict what customers are going to buy. The model consists of three different categories, namely: Present Situation – this is where the customer is at the current moment, Desired State – this is where the customer wants to be in the future and it will help them achieve their goals, and Pathway for Movement from one state to another – this includes various steps that may include various products or services which can help move towards their desired state.

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BUSINESS OF FASHION - PHARRELL AT LOUIS VUITTON: WHEN FASHION BECAME ENTERTAINMENT

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BUSINESS OF FASHION - PHARRELL AT LOUIS VUITTON: WHEN FASHION BECAME ENTERTAINMENT

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Pharrell Williams is new creative director for menswear at Louis Vuitton.

The mix of fashion that was used at the show demonstrated the range of fashion trends & styles incorporated to produce streetwear & formal looks for the catwalk.

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https://www.collater.al/en/the-story-of-willi-smith-the-designer-who-invented-streetwear/

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The story of Willi Smith, the designer who invented streetwear | Collater.al

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We tell you the story of Willi Smith, one of the most influential African American designers in contemporary fashion history.

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BUSINESS OF FASHION - HAS SUPREME HIT A CELING?

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BUSINESS OF FASHION - HAS SUPREME HIT A CELING?

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BUSINESS OF FASHION - CARGO PANTS ARE BACK

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BUSINESS OF FASHION - CARGO PANTS ARE BACK

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Louis Vuitton picks Pharrell Williams to head menswear designs

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Louis Vuitton picks Pharrell Williams to head menswear designs

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https://www.reuters.com/lifestyle/louis-vuitton-picks-pharrell-williams-head-menswear-designs-2023-02-14/

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Louis Vuitton picks Pharrell Williams to head menswear designs

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LVMH’s top label Louis Vuitton said on Tuesday it has hired Pharrell Williams to head artistic direction of its menswear designs, tapping a popular figure from the music industry to fill the high-profile position left vacant since the death of star designer Virgil Abloh over a year ago.

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https://www.urbanmonkey.com/blogs/news/evolution-of-streetwear-fashion-the-rise-of-hypebeast-brands

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Since its inception in the 1990s, streetwear fashion has undergone a process of evolution. The fashion industry has been completely taken over by the look, which emerged from a skateboarding, hip-hop, and graffiti subculture.

At first, streetwear was a rebellious look that focused on large shapes, baggy jeans, and graphic t-shirts. However, as the look became more well-known, it started to include aspects from high fashion, luxury brands, and athletic clothing. A more sophisticated and varied kind of streetwear was produced as a result of this mix.

Streetwear fashion has advanced in recent years as businesses and designers have pushed the envelope of what is possible. The emergence of streetwear influencers and social media has significantly influenced the development of the look. The market has reached unprecedented heights as a result of consumer desire for limited-edition releases, collaborations, and hypebeast culture.

Streetwear clothing now includes everything from sneakers and hoodies to high-end designer collaborations and luxury streetwear brands. It is a global phenomenon. With its vibrant colours, catchy images, and slogans that communicate a sense of identity and belonging, the fashion has come to represent young culture and self-expression.

What is Streetwear?

Streetwear is complicated to define. There are many styles; baggy, functional, work wear, athleisure, vintage, and many more....

As Bobby Hundreds correctly said, "streetwear is about culture, not clothing". Streetwear cannot be defined by style; it's more about a lifestyle, a communit.

Origin of Streetwear?

Many argue about its origins being; hip hop, skateboarding, surfing, pop culture, athletic wear, military/work wear, pop culture, partywear, and much more. We do not think there is a right or wrong answer here. What we can do is pinpoint some crucial brands and milestones streetwear has seen over the years.
Streetwear Brands have had the most impact on our culture.
Skate/Surf, Stussy, Thrasher, Vans, Quicksilver, BAPE, Supreme
Best New Streetwear Brands
Palace, Palm angels, Drew, Rip and Dip, Essentials - Fear of God, Humankind, Market.

What Makes a Brand Hypebeast?

Exclusiveness, limited supply, and high demand are characteristics of hypebeast brands, which create buzz and a devoted following. These companies frequently work with well-known designers, performers, or celebrities to produce limited edition products that are highly coveted by their fan base. Rare and distinctive things are valued by the hypebeast culture, which frequently favours eye-catching logos and patterns.

A Hypebeast brand's capacity to capitalise on pop culture and appeal to the younger demographic is another important factor. These brands frequently find success on social media thanks to the sharing of trend-setters and influencers. Due to the hypebeast phenomena, buying a limited edition item has become a status symbol and a sign of belonging in a certain community.

Luxury Streetwear

"Luxury" Streetwear is a term that is more appropriate to the west, Streetwear did not start as a luxury segment even in America.

India is just starting to adopt and learn about streetwear, especially because of the rise of Indian Hip Hop and the Sneaker Culture. Before brands can take on "Luxury" Streetwear, we need to spread awareness about streetwear through culture, community, and artists. Streetwear should not be a "luxury" item, because the community that streetwear was built for is anything but elitist and that is where "luxury streetwear" is going.

Off-White is a brand that legitimizes creativity and minimalism over anything else. They proved to us that you don't need to have deep pockets to compete with Nike, Adidas, Supreme but what you need is a strong design and idea. Just as you can recognize an off-white product via its logo, stripes, and design aesthetic.

Collaborations are a game changer. As we know the underground community comprises many sub-cultures that together make one big community. The best way for the audiences to cross-pollinate and grow the community is through collaboration.

Collaborations are the key to getting new customers and if the collab is correct, as we have seen with Nike and Michael Jordan, Adidas, and Yeezy, it can make a brand.

Collaborations = Street Cred = High Demand = High Prices = Luxury

They do not have such a stronghold on social media as other brands do. However, it's not their platform that is amazing, it's their creative direction, photography, and brand story that gets to the audience out there.

Platforms are just used as a medium for Off-White for them these mediums will change with trends and are just a way to build HYPE.

It's a circle and it starts with consumers who are early adopters.

Celebrities are always going to stick to trends, whether it's thrifting or buying luxury products. For them, it is more important to be relevant than to be stylish. Celebrities are very smart, for them, they will also rep brands that their fans love, not just rep what they love.

So once they do see their fans or community adopting a product or brand, they rep it. Immediately influencing more people apart from the early adopters to go and rep that brand.

Limited Drops

Limited drops were a very obvious path for the future, as customer sentiment is moving away from fast fashion and more towards sustainability. Purchases will likely require higher consideration and price.

Drop retail is also an amazing way to control inventory and reduce waste, so it's here to stay. Honestly, we don't have much knowledge of OFF-White drops as they are not so available in India. We think Supreme Pioneered Drop Retail, others may have adopted it but Nike and Adidas Mastered it in terms of scale, speed, and execution(distribution).

We are still a little far away from having sustainable alternatives for all the things we purchase. OFF-WHITE's main focus in both product and marketing is for the socially and ethically conscious, they are all about the hype. The Hype Market and the Ethically conscious are intertwined in the end Streetwear is driven by lots of purchases and ethically conscious shoppers do the opposite.

They are relevant when it comes to making a roadmap for products and how communities are built. But in terms of design, India is there with the USA and Japan, but when it comes to culture, community, and size India still has far to go compared to the West. This is the main reason we believe streetwear should not be about luxury but accessibility and community.

What forms a Streetwear Look?

The history of caps can be traced back to the Bronze Age when Otzi, a man found frozen between mountainous areas between Austria and Italy, was seen donning a hat. His cap was made from the skin of bears and other animals. With the change in time, fashion has also changed, and with this evolution, you can now find a variety of caps that are ideal for sports athletes, skateboarders, artists, rappers, hip-hop dancers, and typical street-style fashion. In The Late 90's Fashion, Flat fill baseball caps were adopted by many rappers such as Snoop Dogg and Wu-Tang clan. Baseball caps and bucket hats were a staple, along with neck scarves and Stetsons. There are different types of caps available - baseball caps, snapback caps, trucker caps, dad caps, bucket hats, beanies and so on.

Here are few of the best hats & caps brands globally.

New Era, 47 Hats, stetson, Brixton

Want to Know more about caps?

The future of eyewear is growing. And that makes perfect sense. As the worlds of streetwear and luxury collide and blend - Virgil Abloh's Louis Vuitton debut being the main signifier of that to date - and outdoor brands such as Patagonia and The North Face continue their collaborations with the likes of Supreme, there is now a space for technical, sporting sunglasses to enter the luxury streetwear market.

A great collection of classic eyewear glasses are currently in trend. It includes lightweight metal frames that come in different shapes and colours. Moreover, these glasses come with various protective features such as anti-glare and 100% UV protection.

Want to know more about eyewear?

Streetwear is characterised by its comfort, typically loose clothes and striking graphic patterns. Long silhouettes and loose fits were hallmarks of hip-hop fashion from the early 1990s to the late 2000s. A.P.C. and Kanye West worked together to create a capsule collection in 2013 that included a simple, oversized white t-shirt known as the "hip-hop T-shirt." In the 1990s, the big white t-shirt was a staple of hip-hop style. Given how much streetwear styles influence fashion right now, the wide fit t-shirt is a must-have in your wardrobe. Everyone like to wear casual clothing, such as collarless t-shirts.

Oversized hoodies & sweatshirts were one of the biggest streetwear fashion trends and continue being in trend even today. There is nothing cozier (or trendier) than chucking on an oversized hoodie, paired with your favorite chunky trainers and the right accessories.

A pair of sneakers and a hoodie are now equally prevalent on the streets of India, where they were once associated with skater kids and countercultures. You may now select between convenience and fashion without sacrificing comfort thanks to the current fashion revolution.

The history of the bomber jacket is one of adaptation and growth, of everyday comfort and military precision, of meeting practical needs and representing cultural phenomena. The history of the bomber jacket's evolution and adaptation is a tale of everyday usefulness, military accuracy, evolution, and cultural expression. One of the most well-liked outerwear fads right now is the bomber jacket, which is arguably the most famous item of military clothing to successfully transition into streetwear.

As wide-ranging as its appeal has been, the iconic bomber jacket has always managed to strike a chord among the emerging youth culture, which explains its current status as a well-known and much-loved streetwear staple. Despite having a fairly conservative price tag when it comes to streetwear, Bomber jackets are not just part of a trend; they are a bonafide timeless wardrobe essential, and are built to last. Over the years, important subcultural movements started popping up all around the globe that would take these jackets and make them an integral part of their uniforms.

At the time when streetwear was going through an immense period of growth and evolution during the 90s/2000s, Alpha Industries began a series of successful collaborations with a plethora of street labels including big players such as New Era, Stussy and BAPE.
Want to know more about Jackets?
Baggy jeans or pants are no longer frumpy. In an era of love-all fashion, donning wide-legged pants to the office, or a party is more than welcome. Baggy clothes are mostly connected to hip hop given due to most rappers' way of dressing. The most common theory is that baggies originated from black gang members in California called Cripps and Blood. Hip-hop musicians and skaters popularized this style in the 1990s.

In the last 15 years, people grew up enjoying clothes that were designed slim and flattering. However, lockdown has taught us to prioritize comfort over everything else, making us choose comfort, easy-going bottoms over body-hugging clothes even when returning to the workplace.

Whoever you are, wherever you are, the baggies speak to one and all: they are comfortable, durable, and steeped in the powerful cultural relevance of hip hop - the essence of streetwear wrapped in a piece of clothing just for you.

Sneakers have had a big impact on streetwear fashion, becoming one of the key components of the style. Fans and collectors alike search the world for rare and limited edition releases of what was once just a functional shoe for sports and exercise but has since transformed into a highly sought-after fashion accessory.

Collaborations have largely contributed to the expansion of sneaker culture in streetwear. Trainer company, designer, and artist collaborations have developed into highly anticipated events, with expectation building with each new release.

One of the earliest and most significant sneaker collaborations was the Nike Air Jordan, which was launched in 1985 in partnership with basketball legend Michael Jordan. The Air Jordan line has become one of the most iconic and influential sneaker collaborations of all time, with new releases still highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts.

Other notable sneaker collaborations in streetwear include the Adidas Yeezy line, a collaboration between Adidas and rapper/designer Kanye West. The line has been hugely successful, with each new release selling out within minutes.

Sneaker collaborations have also become a way for brands to connect with other industries and cultures. For example, in 2020, Nike collaborated with the Japanese streetwear brand, Comme des Garçons, to release a new version of the Nike Dunk. The sneaker was an instant hit, blending the classic silhouette of the Dunk with the edgy, avant-garde aesthetic of Comme des Garçons.

Sneakers have become an integral part of streetwear fashion, and collaborations have played a significant role in their rise to prominence. Sneaker collaborations have not only allowed brands to connect with other industries and cultures, but they have also created a culture of excitement and hype around each new release. As sneaker culture continues to evolve, we can expect to see more innovative collaborations and limited edition releases in the future.

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evolution of streetwear fashion: the rise of hypebeast brands

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Evolution of Streetwear Fashion: The Rise of Hypebeast Brands

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Since its inception in the 1990s, streetwear fashion has undergone a process of evolution. The fashion industry has been completely taken over by the look, which emerged from a skateboarding, hip-hop, and graffiti subculture. At first, streetwear was a rebellious look that focused on large shapes, baggy jeans, and grap

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https://www.vogue.in/fashion/content/streetwear-becomes-mainstream-decade-virgil-abloh-demna-gvasalia-kanye-west-supreme

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How streetwear culture became mainstream over the course of this decade

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Kanye, Virgil, Demna, Supreme X Louis Vuitton, Rottweiler tees… the 2010s were a gift that kept on giving

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https://vocast.com/streetwear-fashion-x-culture-with-insight-from-london-paris-and-milan#:~:text=Streetwear%20as%20we%20know%20it,young%20skaters%20in%20New%20York.

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Streetwear is a common term often thrown around without much thought to what it really means, what its values are, or where it comes from. Many genres of fashion can be defined with a general understanding and consensus that most of us subscribe to. It isn't too difficult to separate luxury from high-street, bespoke from fast-fashion, formal-wear from leisure-wear. But fashion genres that are not made for the consumer rather curated and developed by the consumer, can sometimes be hard to define.

Understanding what streetwear is, where it comes from, and what it means to community insiders is essential to create and promote top-selling collections that are not only current, but timelessly rule-breaking. Because of its community-based nature, streetwear influencers, editors, and stylists are a voice of respected authority and therefore make very valuable brand partners. Streetwear is a dynamic genre of fashion, open to creative brands sharing meaningful messages to the world through their designs.

defines streetwear as "fashionable, casual clothes", but explains that this definition undermines the "multi-billion dollar" industry that streetwear has become. Streetwear as we know it today originated in the '90s, in the hip-hop scenes of New York, the surf-skate and graffiti culture of Los Angeles, and within the nightlife of Japan. James Jebbia has said that his influence as a designer " Hypebeast was definitely the young skaters in New York. Also traveling to Japan and seeing their great style. Traveling to London. It was a combination of that. " Designers like Jebbia and Shawn Stussy pioneered streetwear in the US with their brands Supreme and Stüssy , and designers such as Nigo and Hiroshi Fujiwara aka "the godfather of Harajuku", led the movement across the Pacific.

It is important to view streetwear as a movement, not as a trend because it is a cultural phenomenon. 90's graphic tees, loose-fitting jeans, and statement sneakers were created purposefully as an expression by their consumer: the rapper, the skater, and the rebel. In the '80s and '90s, many traditional brands would not dress some musicians or sports stars, so the community had no choice but to make their own clothing and define what fashion meant to them. Virgil Abloh expressed this community shift in an interview last year: " I grew up in the 80s and 90s and in that generation we had our own idea of what a fashion designer is, and we had our own idea of what a musician was ". Still today, streetwear is lead by a close-knit group of musicians, skaters, artists and now social media influencers, who create clothing and curate looks for themselves as an act of self-expression, culture, and community knowledge.

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Streetwear has risen in mainstream fashion over the past few decades. Unlike most other fashion genres, this growth was not pushed by brands, rather brands were sought out by consumers wanting to be "in" on the exclusivity of streetwear clothing. Exclusivity in the form of capsule collections, limited editions, and artistic collaborations are defining signatures of streetwear. Many luxury brands now use limited editions as a sales tactic, aiming to promote the feeling of exclusivity for the consumer.

Traditionally, luxury brands promoted the feeling of exclusivity with their high price ranges through authoritarian top-bottom communication. Streetwear has taught the industry that limited editions do promote a sense of exclusivity, not through prices, but community spirit. Brands like Off-White , Nike , Balenciaga , and Palace , have been acting as an inspiration for traditional brands to design "fashionable, casual clothes" and established luxury fashion brands are releasing streetwear-inspired collections more and more often.

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What is a streetwear collaboration?

The Louis Vitton x Supreme collaboration in 2017 was unmatched, GQ called Kim Jones' collection "one of the collaborations of the century" . It's no surprise that Jones blessed sneaker-heads again this year with Dior x Jordan , British Vogue wrote that Air Dior's were "the most-wanted trainers of all time" . Inevitably, as the consumer base for streetwear clothing grows, the definition of streetwear is changing. For example, as more women began wearing streetwear, the male looks begun to be worn with a bold feminine twist. This created a space in the market for female-run streetwear brands that catered to the women who had been wearing clothes designed for men, by men. This is one of the reasons that today, streetwear has a very unisex feel.

For more insight on what streetwear means to its community, VOCAST's British and Italian researchers spoke to three leading industry insiders. These women are authorities in their fields and work in three of fashion's most influential cities.

LONDON:

Simone Beyene is a 25-year-old stylist and visual artist working with photography and film. She currently works as Mabel's stylist and will be graduating from Central Saint Martins next summer.

Being around the music scene has been exciting as it does have a big influence on streetwear, especially in London because it's a very lively and fun city. I think streetwear, in general, has a very heavy base in skate culture, it's a big part of what we would call streetwear today. In London, there are brands like Palace and Places+Faces that started as young guys printing t-shirts. The core of streetwear for me is a printed t-shirt that's been washed a million times. Rock culture and band t-shirts are a big part of streetwear, but bold colors and prints that are a bit crazy or quite funny show there is a humor to it as well.

Streetwear in London is also based off of early hip-hop in New York, and how rappers used to dress in the '80s and '90s. Many musicians that loved skating, like Pharrell, were known to brands as friends so these brands could just give out clothes. We all want to look like our celebrity idols or people who we love and I think that's how streetwear became big and exploded. Especially because music travels all over the world.

I think what's very interesting as well is that, for me, streetwear is more of a unisex look. It's quite fun to take oversized things and make it more girly by playing with the proportions, cropping baggy clothes, and creating feminine shapes. "Matchy-matchy" tracksuits and crop tops with gold body jewelry is a big part of female streetwear too, and we saw it a lot in the late '90s with celebrity hip-hop brands.

Now, luxury brands are taking on streetwear and are making clothes that they specifically did not use to make. You can see that luxury brands, like Louis Vitton, Dior, and Gucci, are using a lot of monogram and it sells well because streetwear is very popular and people want to be a part of the culture: streetwear is a youth culture, it's the way that the youth dress and these kids never wanted to look like anything except their version of what was cool. Now for the first time in a long time, brands are employing more people from the culture and giving references to where their collections come from. It's important to remember the kids that created this style that brands are now profiting off of.

PARIS:

Selma Kaci Sebbagh is a Creative Director, Press Contributor, and influencer. Her impressive sneaker collection, which she features daily on her Instagram, has caught the eye of several high profile publications.

Streetwear is hard to define right now in 2020, I would say that 10 years ago it was easier to actually define. Streetwear is something that can be mixed, it can be worn by women and by men as well, which means it's something that can be shared. I used to think that the term streetwear could be negative somehow because maybe it was an easy way for people to say something's stylish. Streetwear is wearing the brands behind the clothes, not just a huge logo with no meaning behind it. Often, I have asked brands about where their clothes come from and how they are made because it's important to think about the impact on the planet.

In the French market, especially for the young generation, there is an awareness about sustainability and people want to make a change. I do honestly believe that the new trends in streetwear will be focused on being more sustainable. When it comes to Parisian streetwear there is not an exact style; social media gives us a sense of not having any borders which enables us to look around beyond one style.

Something that is changing the definition of streetwear is that there are more and more women's brands growing, especially through social media. Seeing girls and women being allowed to actually change the way that they want to dress every day allows us to have a different vision of style and streetwear. It stops brands from being closed-minded so that they do more for us, which I think is great.

MILAN:

Amanda Margiaria is an editor at i-D Italy, one of Italy's most prominent publications focusing on streetwear fashion and culture. She writes about everything from fashion weeks and industry news, to culture, politics, and music.

There is no single definition for Milanese streetwear because this style encompasses many different social layers and subcultures. The Milanese skaters wear streetwear, the Milanese hype-kids wear streetwear, the Milanese influencers wear streetwear, but their clothes have little to do with each other. The fil rouge, though, can be found in the attitude of all these people. They wear what they wear because they're making a clear statement. Their clothes say:

" We don't want to homologate to the Italian style, something you'd associate to tailor-made suits, eccentric hats, and the Pitti Peacocks . We are unique, we are outcasts and we wear streetwear because we want to be underdressed in every social situation. "

Streetwear is all about the message you want to convey. If you wear streetwear, you refuse to meet the expectations of society. Streetwear was born out of rejection for social norms, and this rebellion will always be the key element of streetwear. From a style point of view, though, I think streetwear is going towards more unique and sustainable clothes and accessories, because what's better than an Off-White sweater? A custom-made sweater, made of recycled Off-White textiles. Streetwear can survive only if the customers' expectations are met; so it will still be something exclusive and at the same time very democratic because, as we stated in a recent article , if this style wants to stay relevant, a political and social commitment is of foremost importance.

As streetwear establishes itself in the mainstream fashion market, driven by the force of consumers, it is clear that the genre can no longer be reduced to an "urban style" or something not-applicable to established fashion Maisons. Streetwear is the true voice of the fashion consumer, which makes for an indispensable expression that should be reflected in contemporary fashion brands and their product portfolios. Streetwear will always seek to embark upon new grounds and break outdated practices as consumers are increasingly conscious about issues related to equality and sustainability. Therefore, openness to cultural phenomena and a transparent approach to the related issues, is the key to the streetwear consumers heart, worldwide.

Georgina is the Lifestyle Researcher for the US and UK Market at VOCAST, responsible for both American and British fashion and lifestyle research. Along with her work at VOCAST and studies at Copenhagen Business School, she is passionate about conscious fashion reform in the industry.

Olivia is the Italian Market Coordinator at VOCAST. She studied Fashion Marketing & Communication at IED in Milan, where she also began working with fashion marketing and PR. When not at VOCAST, she can be found in her kitchen developing recipes, dealing with the transition from pizza to rye bread.

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Streetwear: Fashion x Culture with insight from London, Paris, and Milan - VOCAST

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Fashion brands have been using creative methods of digitalisation in both innovative and sustainable ways over the past few years. Brands like Dior have used augmented reality for try before you buy solutions in makeup and accessories.

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INDUSTRY REPORT - RETAIL INSIGHT TO STREETWEAR

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INDUSTRY REPORT - RETAIL INSIGHT TO STREETWEAR

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Hypebeast & Strategy& have released an industry report focussing on streetwear & the impact it has had on consumers & brands around the world.

https://strategyand.hypebeast.com/streetwear-report

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https://www.strategyand.pwc.com/de/en/industries/consumer-markets/streetwear.html#:~:text=We%20estimate%20the%20size%20of,global%20apparel%20and%20footwear%20market.

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Five ways fashion brands can win in a growing market

Streetwear is one of the most striking retail and fashion trends to have emerged in recent years, involving the production, promotion, sale and resale of casual fashion in ways that bypass traditional retail channels.

Customers are often rallied via social media to be the first to buy products that are only available directly from the brand, either in-store or online. The anticipation of a time-limited chance to buy helps create a tight-knit and almost cult-like relationship between streetwear brands and their consumers.

This has helped propel streetwear from being an eye-catching fashion phenomenon that drew its inspiration from the counter-cultures of the 1980s and 1990s into a multi-billion dollar retail market. We estimate the size of the global streetwear market at $185 billion by sales*, making it by some estimates about 10% of the entire global apparel and footwear market.
Streetwear's impact - both on retail culture and the numbers involved - has caught the attention of some of the most iconic, established brands in the retail and luxury goods sectors and fashion industry generally. Streetwear players come from various parts of the fashion industry. There are pure streetwear brands, while sportswear names are developing their traditional portfolio of sports equipment into a growing streetwear portfolio with the concept of cool, hip sneakers and hoodies. In addition, luxury brands are also working to gain a significant stake in the streetwear market.

That is in large part because it is opening up a whole new target market of younger consumers. Streetwear's audience is very young: mostly under 25.

A second reason for the interest from established brands is that Streetwear has subverted the way fashion trends have taken off. The fashion industry has typically operated a top-down model, with insiders acting as gatekeepers to the newest styles and trends. Streetwear has turned this on its head. Customers have the power to determine what is cool as much as industry insiders. Exclusivity and desirability are conferred by scarcity and insider knowledge rather than high prices. In short, streetwear has redefined how "cool" is made profitable.

Third, streetwear fans' democratic approach to buying clothes are increasingly shared by all consumers, for whom the opinion of peers is an ever-more influential part of decision-making: 32% of respondents to PwC's recent Global Consumer Insights Survey (GCIS) said positive reviews on social media influence what products they buy.

Small wonder, therefore, that fashion brands have been buying into the streetwear trend in recent years. Among the highest profile examples are Louis Vuitton's collaboration with leading streetwear brand Supreme, and the luxury giant's decision to hire Virgil Abloh, founder of streetwear brand Off-White, as artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear last year.

*Streetwear market size estimate based on US Streetwear Market Report (2015) data and applying same growth rate for subsequent years as for global fashion market in data from Euromonitor, 2019.

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How fashion brands can win in the streetwear market.

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The Impact of Streetwear on the Fashion Industry

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The Impact of Streetwear on the Fashion Industry

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https://www.fastfashionnews.co.uk/the-impact-of-streetwear-on-the-fashion-industry/

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Last Updated on 6th December 2022

Streetwear has changed the fashion industry in a multitude of ways. It has become a staple of the modern wardrobe and has made a huge impact on the fashion industry as a whole. Streetwear has become a bridge between high-end fashion and contemporary street style, allowing for a more diverse range of clothing and styles.

Streetwear has pushed the boundaries of fashion and continues to challenge traditional notions of style and beauty. It has become an integral part of the fashion industry, influencing everything from the way we dress to the way we think about fashion. As streetwear continues to grow and evolve, it is sure to have an even greater impact on the fashion industry in the years to come.

What is streetwear style clothing?

Streetwear is defined by the fashion industry as trendy, casual clothes with pop culture influences that are worn by young fashionistas who are members of a particular subculture (such as hip-hop fans, skateboarders, or surfers) who reside in urban areas. It was a casual clothing trend that originally gained popularity in the 1990s It includes casual yet fashionable attire like graphic tees, hoodies, sweatpants, and pricey trainers.

It is also difficult to define what constitutes streetwear fashion considering that the idea of subculture is extremely subjective and has a wide spectrum of inspirations from sports, music, haute couture, quick fashion, and K-Pop.

Additionally, the streetwear customer base is equally diversified, encompassing all socioeconomic classes and the largest cities on the planet. As a result, streetwear encompasses more than just expensive t-shirts with logos, baggy hoodies, and hip sneakers.

Long before the term 'streetwear' made an appearance in our everyday lingo, the movement was already flourishing. It was a long way from being mainstream, but it thrived and grew through small exchanges in downtown LA and New York. In the 1970s and early 80s, initiation to the streetwear aficionado club might have come easily - by way of a simple nod from someone spotting your drip and you spotting theirs. Uptown and in high society, there were similar exchanges occurring - except the buy-in was the most expensive of luxury handbags.

How has street culture changed over time?

The evolution of street culture was formed in the 20 th century but never had a significant impact on fashion until after World War II. People were able to enjoy the higher end of clothing as their incomes grew and icons such as Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior were able to influence the freedom of exploration associated with street style.

At that period, a single high-fashion company dominated the "street style" appearance of icons. Women generally wore a long circle skirt and a fitted jacket with broad shoulders and a tapered waist, which was the "new look" created by Christian Dior.

This replaced the utility appearance of the time of war by emphasising the female figure. Utilizing the abundance of fabric that had been rare during the war, this hourglass shape was created.

Street style and the fashion business had a close relationship throughout the 20th century. Authenticity and the need to communicate a purposeful aim are two factors that are connected to the street style's early roots.

The street style evolution in the middle of the 20th century was somewhat distinct from the more recent stages. They differ in terms of the way of buying and the view of fashion in general.

Street fashion has developed into a significant sector of the mass fashion business from a common social practice adopted by specific sociocultural groupings. This process took a very long time, and there were significant social, cultural, and economic changes as well.

The general expansion of popular culture was impacted by the anarchy that followed World War II. People desired to depart from the well-known conventional style throughout that time. As a result, many subcultures emerged, each with their own distinct styles, such as hippies, bikers, goths, and punks.

Social media popularity

Hip-hop, skateboarding, and social media all contributed to the popularity of streetwear, which made it much more eye-catching and daring. It includes blending colours, prints, and styles that you would not usually wear in public, as well as baggy clothing, casual T-shirts, and sneakers.

The platform Instagram, a popular mobile application for uploading and sharing pictures on the internet, has surged into popularity in recent years and it has remained an important platform for street style amateurs and photographers who have gained thousands of followers.

Instagram has also been a platform that enables fluid and easy activity sharing useful for anyone looking to establish a personal brand or share life experiences with friends. But as time has gone on, it has become not only a platform but a community that offers space to anybody interested in any field.

Users can always update themselves on the latest changes and trends in streetwear. Also, street style photographers can benefit from its popularity as a new world of media coverage that previously wasn't available.

Youth Culture Streetwear

Hip-hop, social networking, and skateboarding culture have all seen a rise in the popularity of streetwear. People's definitions of street style vary. It might be informal, entertaining, or a mixture of cultures, or it might be about music and the development of many styles.

Street style has been significantly influenced by youth culture. Big businesses are now inspired by it because they formerly found it difficult to stay competitive. Major designers increasingly see street style as high fashion and major luxury brands took years to develop luxury streetwear. Unlike other types of fashion, street style embraces a wide variety of dressing styles rather than just one.

The conventional fashion system has been overturned by the streetwear model, which is now mostly linked with exclusivity. Even though not all streetwear is regarded as "luxury," the style is gaining traction in the high-end market and is increasingly perceived as a cultural status symbol that Generations Y and Z are attracted to.

Streetwear has approached exclusivity in a different way, since exclusivity is typically something linked with pricey things that not everyone can purchase. The original demand was caused by the fact that few people in the formative years knew how or where to find the best clothing. Getting their hands on unique clothing has always been important for wearers for whom style and individuality are crucial.

Streetwear has gone mainstream where luxury designer fashion houses have seen the perfect opportunity to design high-priced, exclusive, and unique clothing and accessories that are not available for everyone.

Streetwear continues to draw inspiration from the skate, surf, and hip hop subcultures and is still an alternative to more mainstream fashion trends today. In the past, casual clothing would never have been considered to be luxurious or exclusive, but there has been a complete reversal of this impression.

Buyers have also realised that purchasing high-end, exclusive clothing is an intelligent investment for the future. Many have spotted an opportunity where there is a selection of streetwear pieces that are in limited supply which has majorly increased the resell value of them.

Streetwear appears to have a secure place in the fashion industry as top brands continue to leverage influencer marketing and team up with celebrities in an effort to elevate their prestige and desirability even further. Some of the most successful urban businesses have demonstrated that they understand exactly how to relate to younger consumers which might teach mainstream brands and conventional luxury fashion houses how it's done.

Olivia lives in Brooklyn and is our USA correspondent. Giving us all the latest styles and trends stateside to keep us informed about our American Cousins, and covering New York fashion week for us.

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The Impact of Streetwear on the Fashion Industry | Fast Fashion News

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Streetwear has changed the fashion industry in a multitude of ways. It has become a staple of the modern wardrobe and has made a huge impact on the fashion

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This article explores how in an ever changing fashion industry two markets from different ends of the spectrum came together to appeal to a new target audience.

It explores how streetwear & luxury came together by collaborating together and creating items never before done at some of the most luxurious brands in the world.

https://www.luxurylifestylemag.co.uk/style-and-beauty/a-meeting-of-minds-how-streetwear-and-luxury-met-in-the-middle-to-appeal-to-the-young-sartorial-male-and-female-fashionista/

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Luxury Lifestyle Magazine - Luxury Lifestyle Magazine

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A meeting of minds: How streetwear and luxury met in the middle to appeal to the young sartorial male and female fashionista | Luxury Lifestyle Magazine

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We take a closer at how streetwear and luxury met in the middle to appeal to the young sartorial male and female fashionista.

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https://www.the-spin-off.com/news/stories/Technology-How-AI-could-revolutionize-streetwear-design-15505

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https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/streetwear-virgil-abloh-supreme-balenciaga/

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Luxury is over its streetwear obsession.

This season, sneakers and hoodies rarely graced the fashion week shows of megabrands in Milan and Paris as they did in previous years, while luxury-streetwear tie-ups such as Air Jordan and Dior or Supreme and Louis Vuitton have become less frequent.

Balenciaga, which under creative director Demna made hoodies and chunky sneakers luxury essentials, has since widened its focus to couture and red carpet dressing. Off-White, too, has recently pursued a style closer to traditional luxury than streetwear, incorporating tailored suiting and launching an haute couture line. Boots and loafers far outnumbered sneakers during the label's Spring/Summer show in Paris on Thursday, its first under the artistic direction of Ib Kamara.

There's a reason so many brands are pivoting. After dominating fashion for the better part of the last decade, streetwear is finally falling out of style. It's partly down to the natural ebb and flow of fashion trends: retailers note that hoodies and sneakers, while still popular, now face competition from loafers and oxford shirts as the menswear silhouette evolves in a more preppy direction. (Men currently make up the majority of streetwear consumers.)

Meanwhile, many consumers see pure streetwear brands as having become overly commercialised and having lost connection with their roots in 1980s street culture, hip-hop and skateboarding.

"Streetwear has switched from being what people on the street are wearing, as an organic thing, to what big corporations are telling them to wear," said writer Derek Guy.

But just like the skinny jean, another seemingly immortal trend that was recently knocked off its perch, hoodies and sneakers aren't going away any time soon. These items have been absorbed into brands' offerings - Bernstein analysis in July noted that sneakers continue to "dominate men's footwear." Streetwear's deep cultural history too means it will always have a place in fashion: menswear brands like Aimé Leon Dore and Noah that combine tailored looks with cargo pants, casual shirting and workwear are heavily influenced by streetwear without falling neatly into that category.

And there are still plenty of die-hard fans of 2010s-era streetwear. Supreme, under parent company VF Corp., is expected to generate $600 million in revenue in 2022, up from $500 million last year. Supreme remains the number one traded brand for apparel on StockX since 2020, according to the resale platform.

There's also a new generation of independent brands like London-based Corteiz, Dutch label Daily Paper, Ghanaian brand Free The Youth and Nigerian skate collective Motherlan that have found success by harkening back to the original paradigm of streetwear: align with niche communities and their values, and rely on them as the first and most passionate ambassadors of the brand.

To put it another way, streetwear isn't dead, it's evolved.

"In menswear especially, it's now more about people wanting to pair tailored trousers or a polo with a pair of sneakers, rather than a whole streetwear 'fit,'" menswear consultant and Twitter pundit Chris Black told BoF in July.

Rise to the Mainstream

Streetwear emerged out of powerful cultural movements in the New York City hip-hop scene and the skate crews of Los Angeles. Rappers like Lil Kim and Biggie Smalls pioneered early streetwear staples like bucket hats and baggy tracksuits. In the 1990s and early 2000s, this particular style was commercialised by designers like Daymond John of FUBU, James Jebbia of Supreme, Shawn Stussy, and by Nigo and Hiroshi Fujiwara in Japan, where a vibrant scene grew out of Tokyo's Harajuku district.

It wasn't until the 2010s that streetwear began to infiltrate the world of luxury fashion. One watershed moment was captured in a now-famous image of Ye (the artist and designer formerly known as Kanye West) and Virgil Abloh outside the Comme des Garçons showroom during Paris Fashion Week in 2009, posing in eye-catching - and at first, heavily ridiculed - streetwear looks.

In 2013, Abloh founded Off-White, an evolution of his previous label, Pyrex Vision. Off-White went on to become one of fashion's most in-demand brands, and embarked on high-profile collaborations with Moncler, Nike and countless others. Abloh popularised his trademark quotation marks - Jordan sneakers with "AIR" printed on the midsole - a gentle ironic knock at the conventions of the fashion industry.

Five years later, Louis Vuitton would go on to hire Abloh - a self-proclaimed fashion outsider - as its artistic director for menswear. In 2019, Dior collaborated with Nike's Jordan brand, a capsule inspired by rapper Travis Scott. Last year, LVMH took a 60 percent stake in the trademark of Abloh's Off-White.

But luxury's newfound love of streetwear had a limited shelf life. The cyclical nature of fashion and the persistent demand for newness meant that hoodies, puffer jackets and sneakers couldn't stay in style forever. Collaborations between luxury and streetwear brands also began to lose their novelty as they became more common. Abloh's death may have marked the end of an era: Off-White, which for years reliably topped Lyst's index of the most-searched brands on its platform, fell to 19th in the July edition.

"This shift away from streetwear came about because many [luxury] brands and designers rushed to the streetwear space, therefore diluting its authenticity," said Chris Kyvetos, menswear buying director at Mytheresa.

New Champions

Culturally, the current streetwear market is now back to being dominated by small but influential brands. Much like Abloh nearly a decade ago, these labels' big online fan bases, who reliably turn out in person for drops too, allow them to attract collaborations with bigger players. Last month, Daily Paper partnered with Adidas to design a playing kit for Dutch football team Ajax, while UK-based sneaker start-up Clints partnered with Patta to introduce its latest shoe, earlier this year. Free The Youth has collaborated with Off-White on limited edition products and community initiatives like building Ghana's first-ever skatepark.

"These smaller brands are successful because regardless of the product, you can guarantee they have highly engaged audiences who will buy into whatever they are selling," said Black.

Atlanta-based streetwear boutique A Ma Maniere has become another coveted collaborator. It is regularly tapped by Nike's Jordan brand for collaborations and product launches, and co-designed a capsule collection with Lanvin in January that featured tailored tracksuits, fleece hoodies and sneakers.

"Streetwear is still a very in-demand category for Gen-Z consumers ... it definitely has become more democratised with far more options [brands] now," said Joe Wilkinson, co-founder and chief executive of Heat, a mystery box retailer which has sold over 30,000 boxes containing clothing and footwear from brands like Heron Preston, Palm Angels, Balenciaga and Off-White since the company launched in 2019.

Meanwhile, new brands are still finding success in the classic streetwear playbook of selling logo-heavy merch - which can range from one-off graphic tees to random branded objects like trucker hats, tote bags or skateboards - related to a niche interest group or subject matter before reaching a wider range of consumers.

Patta and Daily Paper began as a cult sneaker store and a style-culture blog, respectively, before branching out into apparel production. These brands also use a scarcity-driven drop model before flooding the market when demand peaks.

These brands reflect streetwear's irreverence to fashion - creatives without formal design training selling their merch and clothing directly to their fans, operating outside the industry's confines.

Corteiz, which launched in 2017, is recognisable on the streets of London and beyond by its Alcatraz logo - resembling the outline of the former prison island in San Francisco Bay. It has rapidly gained attention over the last two years, with high-profile retail pop-ups and influential fans like British rapper Stormzy and Abloh, who wore the brand's logo-emblazoned socks to the Met Gala in 2021.

This new phase of streetwear is being fuelled by the growing cultural power of start-ups that speak to specific communities and are able to sustain themselves through their global online audiences, said Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom men's fashion and editorial director.

Corteiz's media-shy founder, Clint, is outspoken as to his label's principles: "no free clothes to shit influencers, no paid insta ads [sic], no magazines, no asslicking, no big brand collabs," he wrote in an Instagram story earlier this year. The brand continues to grow its audience by promoting its niche west London identity, the uncompromising, anti-establishment aesthetic of which appeals far beyond its local community.

Displaying the brand's now global appeal, Clint turned up unannounced in Melbourne, Australia, last week and sent hundreds of young people rushing to the location for a chance to get their hands on Corteiz's "Down Unda" merch.

It's too soon to say whether any of these emerging brands will be the next Off-White or Supreme, or if they will remain relatively niche as streetwear's moment as a dominant force in mainstream fashion is receding, for now.

"Streetwear has died more than a thousand deaths at this point, which to me demonstrates more of a misunderstanding of what it is than anything," said DeLeon. "It is clothing inspired and created by specific communities with shared codes and value systems, largely influenced by counterculture and subculture."

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Luxury is over its streetwear obsession. This season, sneakers and hoodies rarely graced the fashion week shows of megabrands in Milan and Paris as they did in previous years, while luxury-streetwear tie-ups such as Air Jordan and Dior or Supreme and Louis Vuitton have become less frequent.

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https://www.vogue.com/article/9-street-style-trends-spring-2023-menswear-shows

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Some say fashion is in distress, but based on the styles both on and off the runways at the spring 2023 menswear collections, it's looking more like a state of undress, to me. This season's street style was all about bareness: bare arms, bare midriffs, just... bare it all. Not since the heyday of Helmut Lang have we seen this many tanks tops. If it wasn't a chopped up and reworked singlet, showgoers were wearing novelty knits in the form of airy crochets and mesh shirts, or a tailored vest. For the fully dressed, Canadian tuxedos and head-to-toe denim was an omnipresent look, with full leather coming in a close second. Call it the Julia Fox effect.

Menswear has become queerer and more fluid over the last couple of seasons, with flamboyant (faux) furs and skimpy femme items popping up across collections. But that's not to say that the go-to masc staples have disappeared. Street stylers this month channeled their inner G.I. Joes in camo prints and cargo pants. Another menswear staple making the rounds was the classic necktie, and while most of those looks weren't quite business as usual, we'll go out on a limb to say they'll be office approved. All that said, the looks that linger the most for me are the unique ones. Just do your thing. And stay hydrated, it's warm out there!

Click through to see 9 street style trends from the spring 2023 menswear shows you'll want to make note of.

In My Denim Era

From baggy jeans to crystal-embellished suits and cropped jackets, head-to-toe denim was the MVP of the season.

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9 Street Style Trends From the Spring 2023 Menswear Shows You Won't Want to Miss

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Some say fashion is in distress, but based on the styles both on and off the runways at the spring 2023 menswear collections, it's looking more like a state of undress, to me. This season's street style was all about bareness: bare arms, bare midriffs, just... bare it all.

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https://robbreport.com/style/fashion/best-streetwear-brands-1234788230/

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Streetwear transformed luxury in a way no other force has in the last 20 years. More than a trend or fleeting commercial endeavor, it was a cultural movement from the start. In the early '90s at skate parks, hip-hop haunts and the underground scenes in Los Angeles, New York and Tokyo, a generation of youths created a new style of dressing-one rooted in long and loose silhouettes and graphics that were full of swagger. Think boxy tees, baggy jeans, hoodies, bucket hats and chunky sneakers. Niche brands began to emerge, catering to this conceptual ethos and postmodern approach to fashion, slowly but surely rising in the ranks, eventually becoming the standard. In fact, streetwear has shaped shopping habits at large with the pioneering drop model. It is now a multi-billion dollar industry that has turned luxury on its head.

What were the defining moments that brought this subcultural movement to the forefront? What made streetwear so impactful in the luxury fashion world? It's hard to nail down a single instance or even a series. But here are a few visible signs of hype and utter obsession: blocks of kids camping out on Spring Street for Supreme's latest drop; riots outside Virgil Abloh's early Off-White shows; collections from Nigo's A Bathing Ape selling out almost instantly, satisfying only 10 percent of his consumer base.

Today, a space that was long considered lesser-than now leads the dialogue in the luxury world. Nigo is at Kenzo. James Jebbia's Supreme has collaborated with Burberry and Louis Vuitton, and has become the most valuable brand in the luxury resale market. Jun Takahashi's Undercover is a continually substantive fixture at Paris Fashion Week. The late Virgil Abloh brought his post-streetwear, reference-heavy aesthetic to Louis Vuitton. Balenciaga is without a doubt a streetwear label, grounded in club culture, dark irony and Georgian irreverence. And the statement sneaker has taken over every house. Amidst all the market power and all the noise, however, there are genuine creatives that continue to push the scene, with emerging brands -from Tbilisi to Los Angeles to Kyoto to Lisbon and beyond-exploring and transgressing streetwear language each year.

The are now many players in the field, but there are also leaders, key brands that define and characterize luxury streetwear. Below, our guide to the top streetwear labels, the ones with the greatest influence that go beyond the hype.

If you purchase an independently reviewed product or service through a link on our website, Robb Report may receive an affiliate commission.

No other streetwear brand has had more of a the meteoric rise and deep fashion influence than Supreme. Founded by James Jebbia in 1994, the company started as a label for real-deal skaters, amassing a devoted fan base. Then in 2017, Supreme shattered the concept of luxury by partnering with Louis Vuitton. The hype was so big and the demand for the collection so strong that it put streetwear at the forefront of fashion, igniting a flame that continues to burn brighter with each passing year.

Buy Now on Supreme

Buy Now on Farfetch

Buy Now on StockX

Virgil Abloh was a man of many talents. Not only did he create one of the biggest brands in streetwear, he was also a DJ, product designer and art curator. With Off-White, which he launched in 2013 after gaining notoriety as one of Ye's sartorial protégés, Abloh experimented with typography, referenced artists from Dondi to Manet and deconstructed garments to stunning effect-all of which redefined luxury. He was eventually tapped to head Louis Vuitton's menswear division, cementing streetwear's dominance in the fashion industry.

Buy Now on Off-White

Buy Now on Mr Porter

Buy Now on Ssense

Buy Now on Saks Fifth Avenue

Heron Preston-along with Abloh, Matthew Williams (now at Givenchy) and Justin Saunders-formed a fashion and DJ collective called Been Trill, which dominated social media in the 2010s. Preston's own label grew out of this cultural output and the encouragement of these relationships, along with a come-to-Jesus moment swimming into plastic waste. The result is his cyber-influenced, eco-conscious namesake label, which entered the luxury market with a low-waste collection created in collaboration with the New York Sanitation Department in 2016. Since then, Preston has solidified his place in luxury, collaborating with NASA and developing a strong and original industrial street aesthetic beloved by high-end retailers.

Buy Now on Heron Preston

Buy Now on Ssense

Buy Now on Farfetch

Buy Now on Saks Fifth Avenue

Neighborhood is a Japanese label that launched in 1994 as part of the trio of iconic streetwear brands. Founded by Shinsuke Takizawa, the designs were largely inspired by motorcycle riders, the military, British punk bands and American workwear. It was largely unknown outside of Asia, but gradually gained a cult following in the West for its impeccable quality and unique cuts. Today, Neighborhood continues to have a special place in the streetwear scene, delivering a nuanced, referential collections with a Japanese deconstructionist appeal.

Buy Now on Neighborhood

Buy Now on Mr Porter

Buy Now on End. Clothing

When Shayne Oliver and Raul Luaz launched Hood by Air in 2006, the brand electrified the industry. It became a high-fashion phenomenon. The collections spoke to the community of individuals that didn't define themselves by gender tropes, sparking a movement of unisex clothing that continues to grow stronger every year. But back then, the masses weren't ready, and the brand shuttered. Now, the conceptual streetwear label is back in business, having relaunched in 2020 with a unique model: create one artistic project a year-injecting the duo's signature aesthetic, marked by deconstructed workwear and utilitarian formalwear with a BDSM tinge-around a theme.

Buy Now on Hood by Air

Buy Now on Ssense

Undercover's Jun Takahashi was studying at Tokyo's prestigious Bunka University when he discovered punk. Vivienne Westwood, the Sex Pistols and Seditionaries: he became obsessed. His label grew out of this love and ethos, bridging the dark, subversive energy with an elegant, poetic and often unexpected vision. Today, he shows in Paris. Deconstructed sweats and suiting with twisted touches speak to a house that is respected by hypebeasts, old-school editors and luxury buyers.

Buy Now on Undercover

Buy Now on Mr Porter

Buy Now on End. Clothing

Nigo is legendary status is global. No list of best streetwear brands would be complete without paying homage to A Bathing Ape (BAPE), which he founded in 1993 in his native Japan. It started as a cult label for in-the-know style setters, but reached the stratosphere in the early 2000s, when Jay-Z, Pharrell Williams, Lil Wayne and other hip-hop tastemakers started wearing Nigo's colorful, '80s-hued toppers and signature camouflage styles. Now, he has become the designer of Japanese heritage label Kenzo-a sign of streetwear's ascendancy in luxury fashion.

Buy Now on BAPE

Buy Now on Farfetch

U.K.-based skate brand Palace has an understated cool factor, giving it a relevancy that has stood the test of time since it launched in 2009. The line, founded by Gareth Skewis and Lev Tanju, was named after a dilapidated Waterloo skate house lovingly called "Palace." The brand is graphically-driven, using motifs that are tongue in cheek, crafted in durable, technical materials. It has also, year after year, moved towards the luxury sphere, most recently with a collection designed by longtime Vivienne Westwood and Marc Jacobs photographer Juergen Teller.

Buy Now on Palace

Buy Now on Farfetch

Demna (neé Demna Gvasalia) turned the fashion world on its head with his spring 2019 collection inside a McDonalds, where models transformed into dystopian security guards and office workers outfitted in outsized uniforms the read "My Name is: Capitalism" on them. It was a perfect storm of rebellion and high-end streetwear, leading to the designer's ascent to Balenciaga. Today, Vetements, now designed by Demna's brother, Guram, is still a major player in luxury streetwear, delivering darkly ironic pieces that deconstruct common cultural references in new ways each season.

Buy Now on Ssense

Buy Now on Mr Porter

Buy Now on Saks Fifth Avenue

Samuel Ross was a Virgil Abloh mentee before he launched A-Cold-Wall in 2015. In a relatively short time, he developed an unmissable, singular aesthetic, offering collections that explore the British class system through classic tailoring-think pressed trousers and overcoats-that's transformed with canvas, nylon and other technically-developed materials. The brand has taken both streetwear and high-fashion by storm, getting much-deserved recognition when Ross was nominated for an LVMH Prize in 2018.

Buy Now on A-Cold-Wall

Buy Now on Ssense

Buy Now on FWRD

Buy Now on Saks Fifth Avenue

Having cut her teeth at Dior Men, heading up the jewelry department under Kim Jones, and being embraced by the likes ofJay-Z, and Pharell Williams, it goes without saying that Yoon Ahn is a harbinger of cool. Her Tokyo-based label Ambush, conceived with her husband, hip-hop producer Verbal, started with directional rings and necklaces before introducing unisex garments in 2018. The line soon became a sought after, authoritative voice in luxury streetwear, integrating military codes, utilitarian references and sly, technical details that make a strong statement-with or without Ambush's signature silver chains and padlocks.

Buy Now on Ambush

Buy Now on Nordstrom

Buy Now on Saks Fifth Avenue

Before launching Aries, founder Sofia Prantera developed menswear for the renowned English skate shop Slam City Skates. She originally launched with a women's collection in 2010, but it was men in particular that gravitated toward her psychedelic, subcultural designs. Old Patagonia catalogs, original Detroit techno and early 2000s skate mags are frequent reference points. Collaborations with New Balance, AR Roma and pure luxury labels like the now-shuttered Hillier Bartley prove that Aries is going beyond its cult status and quickly becoming a mainstream name.

Buy Now on Aries

Buy Now on Ssense

Buy Now on Mr Porter

Buy Now on Bloomingdale's

There's a playful irreverence to Colm Dillane's colorful, whimsically expressive streetwear. The native New Yorker-who started designing in the lunch room before launching his Brooklyn-based brand-is known for his crayola-colored, larger than life vision and performance art installations. He's fast entering the luxury sphere, having won the Karl Lagerfeld LVMH Prize in 2021.

Buy Now on KidSuper

Buy Now on Ssense

Buy Now on Farfetch

Former Jil Sander designer Maria Koch has taken the Berlin-based, fashion-insider magazine 032C's culture and ethos and created dark, rave-inspired streetwear with an elegant, edited eye. Collaborations with Stüssy, Alyx and others have elevated the hype factor, cementing the label's status as a new luxury streetwear tastemaker.

Buy Now on 032c

Buy Now on Farfetch

Buy Now on End. Clothing

GMBH is a German fashion collective founded in 2016 by Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik that speaks to Berlin club culture and brown identities. It also is fast becoming one of the most interesting luxury streetwear labels in Europe, delivering styles that blends subtle subversive details with rich textiles.

Buy Now on GMBH

Buy Now on Ssense

Buy Now on Farfetch

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The 15 Streetwear Brands That Changed Luxury Fashion Forever

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From Supreme to Ambush, check out the best streetwear brands changing the codes of luxury.

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V&A EXHIBITION - FASHION MASCULINITIES - THE ART OF MENSWEAR

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V&A EXHIBITION - FASHION MASCULINITIES - THE ART OF MENSWEAR

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"At a moment of unprecedented creativity in men's fashion and reflection on gender, this exhibition explored how designers, tailors and artists – and their clients and sitters – have constructed and performed masculinity, and unpicked it at the seams." (V&A, 2022)

In October 2022, I visited the Fashion Masculinites exhibition at the V&A. This exhibition explored the creativity of art & fashion of menswear throughout the decades with pop influencers such as Harry Styles being mentioned due to his gender fluidity when it comes to his sense of fashion.

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The New Direction Of Streetwear Swivels To A Surreal Future

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The New Direction Of Streetwear Swivels To A Surreal Future

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https://www.forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2020/08/02/the-new-direction-of-streetwear-swivels-to-a-surreal-future/?sh=39672e84c76f

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The next generation of streetwear designers will pave the future with functional apparel surpassing the old regime as too suggest an inspiration from the gods. Literally. The global pandemic of COVID-19 has set trend analysts and menswear experts alike to shout from the rooftops about how the spread of the coronavirus has given rise to a fresh list of consumer demands. In a word, to survive in the post-covid world, is to implement change. The wheels are in motion as consumers insist on elements of protection made with advancements in comfort. This has become more and more prevalent in the future of streetwear design.
Sustainable environment:
Overall, the fashion business has been implementing better ways to develop apparel with the lowest carbon footprint economically possible. In fact, next level streetwear designers and brands have been developing eco activist and (obligatory) sustainable statements through grassroots advertising and marketing strategies- that both inspire and evoke action. Even though the environment has been a constant key consideration for the last decade or so, it has now become the greatest voice with respect to the winds of change and the future of streetwear. Honestly, after having been told to quarantine at home, wear masks in public and wash our hands over and over again, consumers are longing for peace and serenity of nature in lieu of what is coming down the virtual runway in Paris or Milan.
Buried treasures :
In the past, fashion creatives have taken elements of heritage and redefined them to adhere to modern standards. The new guard of streetwear designers now flash us a touch of nostalgia as a bow-down of sorts to our treasure past. But, more importantly, the next wave is setting the foundation for what is to come. On the world timeline, I believe we are at a pivotal point. If you don't believe me just ask the person next to you about their thoughts on current affairs and future dreams.
The new guard:
In my streetwear analyst, I clearly see a whole new life of energy that is keen on playing with hyperreal finishes such as reflective elements or high shine product offerings that lend credence to a fresh modified look. These new arrivals have finer lines than streetwear of the past - leading the charge of a seriousness in this fashion segmentation. The takeaway here is less aggressive styles, return to environment and maintaining function.
Welcome to the new guard in men's streetwear!
RIOT HILL returns with their latest online release, this time calling on one of their classic graphic motifs. Utilizing a signature boxed fit, the menswear label's latest hooded sweatshirt sports an unmistakable back and front screen printed logo providing a stylistic narrative to the garment in its role as a staple centerpiece. Making it the perfect addition to any modern wardrobe. A piece of RIOT HILL is as durable as the message it exists to perpetuate.This hoodie will release this Thursday at 4 PM PST only at riot-hill.store $195.00

Black suede B-Glove high-top sneakers with silver-tone Balmain logo $750
Sneakersnstuff
The SNS x Gramicci Collaboration is a six-piece capsule release for Summer 2020. One of the OG brands in the outdoor market, known for its climbing apparel and SNS created a functional and comfortable capsule pack with three pairs of shorts and three tee's.

SNS x Gramicci Tee ($39): The white tee with SNS and Gramicci Running Man logo meshed up matches perfectly with the designated short.

Paisley G-Shorts ($88): The classic Gramicci G-shorts has been dressed in an exclusive SNS paisley print on a chino-beige background. The multi-colored SNS paisley pattern (yes, it reads "SNS" if you look closely) sits comfortably on double-ringspun cotton twill, paired with a signature gusseted crotch, these summer shorts by SNS and Gramicci let you enjoy every movement in style.

Introducing the Dawn 70 - made in collaboration with TSS x Nahmias, featuring silk jacquard paisley tongues, platform soles, laser engraved details and silk shoelaces available in both high and low top styles. These ultra-limited shoes are a must-have summer purchase that can be worn all year round, and retail for $ 1250,00 USD.
Burton Mine77 x NEIGHBORHOOD
The Burton Mine77 x NEIGHBORHOOD 8-Pocket Cargo Jeans are based off original BDU pants that have been modified from MIL specs. They feature two additional cargo pockets and are made of 10oz military denim. Each pair has selvedge fabrication that emphasizes the look with fades and drips. These are part of the Burton Mine77 x NEIGHBORHOOD collection, a limited five-piece capsule featuring military-inspired, functional denim and velvet pieces. The final installment from Jake Burton Carpenter, the collection combines Jake's drive and passion for product development and innovation with Shinsuke Takizawa's NEIGHBORHOOD known for its iconic military inspired, premium apparel. Pricing: $299

The Bubble Wrap Utility Vest utilizes recycled bubble wrap and durable PVC to reinterpret the familiar silhouette of a classic utility vest into an unconventional, eye-catching, and sustainable garment. In today's age of non-stop deliveries from Amazon, USPS, UPS, Fedex, DHL, etc. one cannot go a day without seeing packaging materials littered throughout the streets. Frustrated by this monotonous cycle, yet guilty of being apart of it, designer Tommy Bogo set out to create garments that utilize packaging material in order to encourage others to re-purpose, re-use, and at least recycle these otherwise wasted materials that are arriving at our doorstep on a daily basis. Price: $350
John Geiger
$350.00 USD - Designer John Geiger continues his stride of highly coveted releases. His eponymous brand is excited to unveil an iconic 'Black Marble' color-way in his 002 sneaker model. Slated as one of the brand's most anticipated releases of 2020, the 'Black Marble' 002 starts from the ground up with a white outsole that features John Geiger branding and is capped off with a Neoprene upper that offers a striking exclusive design of black marble alongside hints of blue hues and accents throughout the sneaker to assist in creating a truly unique pattern, giving each pair a one-of-one look and making no two pairs the same. Succeeding the 'White Marble' 002 Low, the 'Black Marble' 002 High gives footwear lovers another beautiful selection to add to their closets and rotations. Eager supporters and fans will be able to purchase the 'Black Marble' 002 sneaker at johngeigerco.com on August 7th, 2020 at 12pm EDT

This summer, HUF joined forces with fellow Los Angeles-based modern eyewear brand, AKILA, to bring you the 'Legacy,' a limited-edition sunglasses collaboration in 3 new colorways. Featuring the signature HUF Green in an acetate frame, a Leopard Tortoise motif, and a classic black frame accented with rose tinted lenses, the HUF x AKILA 'Legacy' is limited to less than 150 pairs per color, and combines handcrafted tradition and modern materials for a new and improved, timeless classic. Each pair is handmade to maintain precision and quality that will last for years, uses environmentally-conscious plant-based cellulose acetate, and retails at $100 USD.
Dim Mak Collection
Steve Aoki's Dim Mak Collection and Dust of Gods by Antonio Tadrissi have teamed up to create a limited-edition capsule collection of hoodies to benefit Covid-19 relief. Each hoodie highlights its own city map including New York, Los Angeles, Toronto, Milan, and Beijing. A portion of the proceeds from each hoodie sold from the Un*break*able campaign will be donated to the Steve Aoki Foundation and allocated to a powerful cause that responds to the impacts of Covid-19, with the assistance of the Red Cross.

Renowned LA has teamed up with UNKNWN, Lebron James Concept Store, in Miami, Florida. The shirt features our "Hands to The Sky" graphic with text reading "Embrace The UNKNWN" by Muntasir Mohamed. On the back, large text reads " Move Towards Your Fears. This Shirt is a great addition to any summertime wardrobe! Not only is the shirt amazing, part of the proceeds go towards Know Your Rights, Dream Defenders and the Miami Foundation. This shirt will be released end of August at UNKNWN in-store and online. $55.00

The Sheered Jungle Shirt from TAAKK is the quintessential piece for the season as it expertly walks the line between heritage and trend. Designer Takuya Morikawa, who worked on famed Japanese designer Issei Miyake's design team for eight years before launching TAAKK in 2013, melds eye popping color and pattern with the ever popular camp collar reminiscent of the classic 50's style, reimagined here for the modern man. - Price in USD: $353.55

PROBLEM CHILD

Problem Child's smart street approach blends 2 different walks of life into tangible products. The new kids on the block have been worn by the likes of pioneer ASAP Rocky and supermodel Alton Mason. Featured here; the "Manteca" flare trouser which translates to butter complementing the palette and silky smooth fabrication of these Japanese poplin trousers. Modernizing classics with a unique twist these are a perfect transition piece from day to night. With all of their products being ethically manufactured in the heart of Los Angeles, be sure to keep an eye out for this underdog company. They have proven to be well ahead of their time. Retail($ 220)
DRx Romanelli and LeRoy Neiman
This limited edition DRx Romanelli LeRoy Neiman cap is a versatile summer accessory you can feel good about buying: all proceeds will go to Artist Relief, a national coalition to support artists impacted by COVID-19. Streetwear designer Darren Romanelli -known for deconstructing and upcycling vintage items under the moniker DRx or Dr. Romanelli- remixes the paintings of LeRoy Neiman, an artist who captured sports and life in bold, expressionistic strokes. Each order will also include a mystery vintage poster randomly selected from the Neiman Foundation archives, for the nostalgist in us all. Price: $65, now available for pre-order (ships in mid-August)
Champion.com
A streetwear-lover's dream juxtaposition of an ultra-modern silhouette but with breathable, light materials for a sock-like fit. The shoe pairs Champion's heritage branding and script logo with sleek lines and classic summer colors for a look that can be worn from day to night and that pair easily with your existing summer wardrobe staples for a bold look.

Aloha shirts are iconically American. They are a part of our history of style just as much as the surf and skate cultures that embraced them on the West Coast. While we tend to stay away from trends it just so happens that this shirt fits with the overall theme of tropical motifs and colors, and "artsy prints" for the Mens 2020 season but with a more classic approach. Whats even cooler is you wont see this print licensed out to mass market brands. We designed it and it's exclusive to us and made in limited quantities here in LA. $285.00 USD

The word KUON means eternity, that which is everlasting, as well as the remembrance of the past as experienced in the present. The choice of this word is relevant to designer and founder, Shinichiro Ishibashi, as the two pivotal techniques often used in the collection are boropatchwork and sashikostitching, as well as modern developments of traditional Japanese techniques and materials. KUON continues to collaborate with local manufacturing and craftsmen to make clothing that combines design with their unique set of skills. As a result, Ishibashi is able to share his knowledge about fashion, while learning the history and expertise of his counterparts. This exchange has provided an edge for KUON, enabling the brand to rapidly gain recognition. $437.50.

Big Mike's Black Lives Matter Pendant is a summer 2020 essential piece. Not only is the custom black & 14K white gold and diamonds pendant stylish and sleek, but it's symbolic. The custom piece is designed to celebrate Black lives and the fight for racial equality. The Black Panther fist-shaped pendant is more than a piece of jewelry, it's a statement. All of the proceeds from sales of this timeless piece will go to charity. Big Mike has teamed up with 'The North Star Funds - Let Us Breathe Fund' to donate all profits. Price: $1500
DARRYL BROWN
The Jade work shirt is a classic piece with vintage quality. It's crisp in structure with the intention of being "worn in" over time. The color is based off the symbolism of Jade stone, promoting, harmony, protection, and good fortune.The Jade work shirt also takes inspiration from Darryl Brown SR. who often wore a similar version while working. 100% Cotton, Relaxed fit.

Designer tees are perfect for the current summer season. For one, every guy needs a basic tee for summer. For another, it's more than just a basic tee because the graphic is more than relevant as we're all experiencing lockdowns, isolatations, and closures. The shirt is made in Italy from 100% cotton, and the design is protected under section 107 of the Copyright Act, parody is fair use. LOHA VETE ©$195.00
The Kid With The Boombox
We got you. Ditch the neutral colors and have some fun with your 'fit with Atelier Beaurepaire's stand-out streetwear. Traditional wax print meets modern, breathable, and utilitarian designs so you can look your best all summer. Maurice Jacket (bomber jacket in blue on the right model) is $270, Joseph pants (slim cut chino on both models) is $145, and the Rene (button down shirt on the left model) generally are $125. "Wax print sourced from Holland to Senegal for the ultimate flex- designed in Paris, and now avaialble in NYC/USA" Humble Hustler

Founded by Parminder Gyani and Paola Estefania Linares, Humble Hustler is created and constructed in Los Angeles. Creative Director Linares designed Humble Hustler's exclusive streetwear brand to reflect the rhythms, moods, and tones of the style revolution. It's more than a brand - it's a lifestyle and a movement for a new generation. Humble Hustler is worn by those with a shared passion for hard work, independence, success, and philanthropy, as 15% of all proceeds support the Your Guardian Angel Foundation. When you step out in Humble Hustler this summer, your style reflects your tenacious mentality, because you embody a Humble Hustler yourself. (Featured item: $69.00 USD)
Storied Hats
This summer Storied Hats has you covered with the best men's caps to beat the heat. Designed with the highest quality of sustainable lightweight fabrics including breathable durable linen, recycled polyester, organic cotton, and hemp, and come in a variety of colors, fun prints, and sizes ranging in price $32-$40. Storied Hats, based in San Francisco and designed by Zach Maurin and Cameron Blossom, brings you a bright 90s summertime collection featuring Saved by the Bill, The Fresh Print, and New Kid on the (Color) Block. Added bonus? Storied Hats is a member of 1% for the Planet. No buyer's remorse here.

The Alife® Sandal features a mixed-material upper composed of textile "hook and loop" closure straps with a silver reflective synthetic/PU base, bound together with exposed white zigzag stitching. The synthetic base provides comfortability and cushioning for the feet, while the straps ensure stability and a true-to-size fit for all. Alife Sandal ($70):

The Fly By Leather Jacket is a faux leather self fabric with a velvet leopard lining. The jacket features tonal PVC embroidery appliqué across the chest and a hidden nickel YKK zipper closure at center front w/ snap closure flap to cover. The Fly By Leather Jacket is part of the FW20 collection, which debuted on the brand's revamped shopping site that includes on-model video previews and 360 degree interior/exterior product views. Pricing: $489

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The New Direction Of Streetwear Swivels To A Surreal Future

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The next generation of streetwear designers will pave the future street with functional apparel surpassing the old regime as too suggest an inspiration from the gods. Literally.

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https://pausemag.co.uk/2023/06/luxury-streetwear-brand-reternity-returns-for-the-summer-with-sell-your-soul-collection/

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PAUSE Online | Men's Fashion, Street Style, Fashion News & Streetwear

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Luxury Streetwear Brand Reternity Returns for the Summer with ‘Sell Your Soul’ Collection

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https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/how-stone-island-found-its-luxury-streetwear-sweetspot/

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LONDON, United Kingdom - An Italian sportswear brand named after the two most common words in Joseph Conrad's novels hardly seems the most likely fashion choice for Britain's football stands.

And yet Stone Island, after more than three decades producing highly technical men's outerwear, has become less known for its heavily-stonewashed, tarpaulin-like fabrics and intense R&D process; instead its signature compass patch insignia has become, since the 1990s, a central logo of football hooliganism across the UK and Europe.

Now, thanks to a number of surprise collaborations with Supreme since 2014, Stone Island has steered itself towards successful expansion into the United States and counts rap superstars Drake, A$AP Nast and Travis Scott among its biggest fans - the latter two even started an online spat over who could stake claim to the brand as part of their original style.

So how does Stone Island reconcile its position as an innovative brand founded by Massimo Osti, a former graphic designer and garment engineer, with its status as a cult phenomenon within Europe's football scene?

According to Gavin Francis Thomas, a brand consultant who worked on Stone Island's branding strategy in the US, "Stone Island's never had to do a rebranding because everybody knew what it was. It's never allowed itself to be pigeon-holed."

Stone Island jackets, featuring the distinct black, green and yellow compass patch logo on the sleeve, first emerged on the backs of fashion-conscious Milanese youths of the 1980s and '90s - known as Paninaro for their habit of hanging around sandwich shops - and gradually became associated with fervent football supporters in Italy and beyond.

It's a fascinating trajectory, how basically the same jacket can mean very different things in different parts of the world.

As the oral history goes, fans of successful British football clubs would follow their teams to European matches and return home wearing flashy brands unavailable in the UK, including Stone Island. The brand's adoption by Britpop icons like Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher helped elevate it to cult status for the '90s everyman.

Over the years, the obsessive embrace of the brand by football hooligans has seen Stone Island pick up negative press along the way. As recently as 2018, there were reports of bars and clubs banning anyone wearing the brand, with many citing violent behaviour as the reason behind the dress code.

But rather than falling into the trap of unsavoury cultural associations - as Burberry did in the early 2000s when its iconic check pattern became mired in 'chav' culture - Stone Island is thriving.

For the financial year of 2018, the family-owned company - helmed by Creative Director and President Carlo Rivetti and driven by a team of designers rather than one star figurehead - saw turnover increase 30 percent to €192 million ($213 million) and EBIDTA reach €57 million, up 51 percent from the previous year, according to company data shared with BoF.

Retail data and analytics firm Edited also confirmed that online discounts for the brand's outerwear pieces remain under 30 percent, with a large proportion of designs selling out before discounts are added. "A big accomplishment," said Edited Retail Analyst Tara Drury, "[given that] prices for outerwear in stock go up to $2,620.00 in the US and £1,895 [in the UK]."

Mr Porter, which has stocked Stone Island since 2013, tells a similar story of the brand's success. According to Senior Buyer Simon Spiteri, Stone Island is now the second-best performing casual-wear brand on the site, and the October launch of its nine-piece exclusive collaboration comprising outerwear, knitwear and trousers has seen a number of pieces sell out.

Stone Island's collaboration with Mr Porter allowed it to target more affluent shoppers, while celebrity backing and the partnership with Supreme has increased its exposure to Millennials and Gen-Z. "The brand has worked hard to reach a wider audience, where they've brought back old collections to cash in on the current consumer obsession with nostalgia," Drury said.

While Stone Island has, of course, stayed true to its core values of research, experimentation and functionality, Drury attributes its recent success to "clever marketing."

It's never allowed itself to be pigeon-holed.

In opting for ad campaigns and seasonal releases in lieu of buzzy, Instagram-friendly catwalk shows or fashion week presentations, Stone Island has been able to target not only "North America but a whole new set of customers that had maybe forgotten about the brand or associated it with negative connotations," she added.

That's helped Stone Island establish itself as one of fashion's buzziest brands globally. Currently it sits 11th on Lyst's index of hottest brands, while its classic sleeve logo sweatshirt ranks sixth in terms of hottest products for Q3 2019 . It is also the only menswear-only label ever to feature in the Lyst Index and, according to a Lyst spokesperson, "the brand generates less social media buzz than some of [the index's] other hottest brands, [but] it is a powerful force in menswear that seems to be perennially popular with shoppers."

Meanwhile, those who have worked with or written about the brand wax lyrical about its authenticity. "I think the brand is consistent. It's unrelenting in its identity," said Thomas. "It's never being prescriptive about how you should give life to [their product]."

Similarly, StyleZeitgeist Editor Eugene Rabkin became interested in Stone Island around 2006-2007 due to the brand's "unique hybrid" of fashion, performance and streetwear - something he was increasingly drawn to as he became disillusioned with fashion's obsession with streetwear.

"The more I see logo hoodies from Dior and Louis Vuitton, the more I gravitate towards Stone Island because there's a lot more design there."

A forensic lens on the visuals of the brand's marketing reveals that, arguably, the answer to Stone Island's success lies somewhere in between savvy marketing and communication of a genuine brand history, a strategy that is largely helped by the fact that Stone Island remains a private family company - with minority stake owned by Temasek Holdings - working under a singular vision.

A typical post on Stone Island's official Instagram page | Screenshot via Instagram

However, the work that has gone into Stone Island's social media presence reveals the brand's obstinate steer on its own narrative. Deceptively plain, Stone Island's ad campaigns are shot against solid-colour backgrounds, or in the case of its videos, in a dark studio where, if not for the products themselves, strobe lighting would be the star.

Its ads feature a range of men - for the most part, racially diverse, but unified by square jawlines and youth. Beyond the nuances of body language - at most a downward tilt of the head or a hand in the pocket - there is little to read into from the visuals.

The Stone Island world is hermetically sealed, eschewing streetwear's typical gritty urban backdrops in favour of a blank canvas devoid of social or cultural signifiers.

"They don't need a graffitied brick wall," said Rabkin "For them it's product front-and-centre and that's why you'll see advertising hasn't really changed." While most brands rely on window-dressing or story-telling, for Stone Island "it's about the jacket."

"They've always spoken about the product," said Thomas. "That's what they are best at." This emphasis on product design is echoed in the marketing copy. Its official Instagram account's 200-word captions contain in-depth technical product descriptions and almost always feature hashtags such as #GarmentDyed or #NylonMetal.

Also notable is that, despite the organic partnership that formed with avid Stone-Island-collector Drake - according to Rabkin, the rapper approached the brand, not the other way around - there are no reposts of his many Stone Island looks on the brand's official Instagram page.

"It's a fascinating trajectory," said Rabkin, "how basically the same jacket can mean very different things in different parts of the world." Across the Atlantic, a world apart from its football-and- class-related significance, "it becomes a hypebeast object of desire."
Related Articles:
[ Is Luxury Outerwear the Next 'It' Category? ]

[ Why Puffer Jackets Are at the Centre of Korea's Class Divide ]
Explore the inside story behind Moncler's 'Genius' strategy in BoF's latest case study. Created exclusively for BoF Professional members, case studies explore the most important challenges facing the industry today. Click below to download.

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How Stone Island Found Its Luxury-Streetwear Sweet Spot

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LONDON, United Kingdom - An Italian sportswear brand named after the two most common words in Joseph Conrad's novels hardly seems the most likely fashion choice for Britain's football stands.

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1. Abstract

2. Introduction

3. Methodology

4. Literature Review

5. Main Body -
5.1 History – Redefining Streetwear Culture
5.2 Typical Consumer
5.3 Measuring Streetwear
5.4 The Current State of Streetwear
5.5 How Streetwear Redefined Luxury
5.6 Summary of Fashion Shows 2023
5.7 What Does the Future Hold for Streetwear?

6. Results & Discussion

7. Recommendation

8. Conclusion

9. Appendix

10. References

11. Bibliography

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An Investigation Into The Evolution of Streetwear Culture & How It Has Played a Pivotal Role Within Society, The Fashion Industry & What Exactly Does The Future Hold For This Fashion Culture?

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1. THE WHAT, WHY, WHERE, WHEN, HOW

2. METHODOLOGY

3. DEFINITION OF STREETWEAR

4. HISTORY

5. TYPICAL CONSUMER

6. STREETWEAR X LUXURY

7. WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR STREETWEAR

8. RECOMMENDATIONS

9. CONCLUSION