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Computers that plug into the monitor!

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Ever since Intel first released the Compute Stick, we've seen a rush of tiny PCs built into HDMI dongles. Some take advantage of the free-to-manufacturers Windows with Bing offering, while others use more traditional operating systems such as Android and Linux. While a number of stick PCs use Intel's reference design and specs, there are also unique options from third-party manufacturers, and the good news is there's room for all under the stick PC tent. Here are our picks for the best stick PCs on the market.

Our pick
Intel Compute Stick

Why you should buy this: You need a good, all-around stick PC.

Who it's for: Anyone who wants to turn their TV into a PC.

What will it cost: $123
Why we picked the Intel Compute Stick:
Intel launched the first iteration of the Compute Stick back in March 2015, and ever since, a number of other stick PCs have picked up on the Intel's standard specs and carried them. The most recent version of the Compute Stick is powered by an Intel Atom Z8300 processor, 4GB of RAM, with 32 or 64GB of eMMC storage, and a MicroSD slot if you need a bit more space. As for connectivity, it attaches to a TV or monitor via HDMI, is powered over Type-C, with one USB 3.0 Type-A port on the unit itself, and two more on the power adapter.

The Intel Compute stick comes in a few other flavors as well, including a top-end version kitted out with an Intel Core M processor, so you can actually get a stick PC that might be a little faster than your laptop. That model will run you $485, though, but for all that horsepower it could be worth the cost.
Read our full Intel Compute Stick review
The best under $100
Asus Chromebit

Why you should buy it: You need a low-cost stick PC

Who it's for: Students, families looking for an ultra-affordable PC

What will it cost: $85
Why we picked the Asus Chromebit:
If you've used Chrome OS recently, you know it has become a robust and utilitarian operating system with a large variety of uses. The Asus Chromebit puts all of the functionality of the OS into a small dongle that plugs right into your HDMI port for less than $100. The Chromebit is powered by a RockChip RK328, an increasingly popular quad-core chip, and connectivity is bolstered by Wi-Fi, built-in Bluetooth, and a USB port. Chrome OS makes for an excellent portable computing solution, the cloud-based nature of which can't be rivaled.
Read our full Asus Chromebit review
The best for real PC use
Kangaroo Mobile Desktop Plus

Why you should buy it: You need a lightweight but capable PC alternative

Who it's for: Anyone who needs a powerful PC they can take anywhere.

What it will cost: $170
Why we picked the Kangaroo Mobile Desktop Plus:
Even though it's not technically a stick PC - it's more of a rectangle - the Kangaroo's tiny form factor renders it perfectly suitable for many of the same uses as the other systems on our list. This is the one you'll want if you're looking for a small, portable desktop that can handle everyday work and play.

While the specs under the hood are fairly standard - it houses an Atom Z8500 CPU - there are two configurations with a respectable amount of RAM and storage. The Plus model features 4GB of RAM, and 64GB of on-board storage space, while the Pro model features 2GB of RAM, 32GB of storage space, and comes with a stationary dock which increases the number of ports available. The Pro Dock features three additional USB ports, and an Ethernet port.

The Pro dock also features a hard drive bay, making it an excellent choice if you need a stick PC capable of competing with a typical PC. Though it won't hold a candle to our best laptops, you'll still be able to get some serious work done.
Read our full Kangaroo Mobile Desktop review
The best for streaming
Azulle Quantum Access LAN PC Stick

Why you should buy this: You want a streaming device more versatile than an Apple TV or Roku.

Who it's for: Anyone who wants to kick back and stream straight from their TV.

How much will it cost: $100
Why we picked the Azulle Quantum Access LAN PC Stick:
The Azulle is a take on the original Intel Compute Stick, and has most of the same hardware, right down to the Intel Z3735F quad-core processor. However, unlike the Compute Stick, this particular model of the Quantum Access has an Ethernet port. That's a handy extra, particularly if you'd like to use your stick to set up a Plex server.

That Ethernet port also makes media streaming from services like Netflix, Hulu, and HBO Now a lot more reliable - a quicker connection means a lot less buffering. Also, unlike a lot of other Compute Stick variants, this particular model ships with Windows 10. It's free to upgrade from 8.1 anyway, but it's nice to have that taken care of beforehand.
Updated 7/11/17: updated all products to reflect current prices.

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Carry your computer in your pocket with the best stick PCs

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Ever since Intel first released the Compute Stick, we've seen a rush of tiny PCs built into HDMI dongles. Some take advantage of the free-to-manufacturers Windows with Bing offering, while others use more traditional operating systems such as Android and Linux.

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Buying a computer is no easy task, and with the cost of many of the machines out on the market today, you want to make sure you're making the right purchase so you don't blow your money on something that stops meeting your demands within a year. Not all machines are created equal, and unless you're pretty familiar with computer hardware, you might have a hard time determining just how unequal they are. Of course, not all computer users' needs are equal, so you might not need certain things included in a computer, especially not if those features are pushing up the price.

This guide should help you get a better understanding of what all the components of the computer will mean for you and make it easier to decide what you want, need, and which elements to prioritize. That way, you'll be better equipped to get the right computer for you, and to avoid spending any more money than you must.

1. Desktop or laptop?

This is probably one of the simplest choices to make, and one that can have a big impact on the overall cost of your computer, including expenses that might not come right at the time of the purchase. In general, if a laptop and desktop are boasting all of the same performance specs, the desktop will be cheaper. It might not make sense, since it's a bigger piece of hardware, but the ability to cram a lot of components into a small space and the need for a battery is what ups the price of the laptop - notice the premium paid for Apple's thinner devices.

If you plan on having a steady workstation and don't need to run around with your for-all-purposes device, consider getting a desktop and saving yourself some money, or spending what your budget allows and getting a computer with higher specs. An added benefit of a desktop is that it's easier to keep cool, since there is more room for powerful fans, which will help the machine have a longer lifetime and maintain optimum performance levels. Additionally, it's easier to change out parts and upgrade components in a desktop, which will keep your machine from falling behind the constantly increasing demands of the digital world.

If you often need your computer on the go, the choice is simple: laptop. If your need for portability is only occasional and you don't need much more than a browser or word processor, you may be able to find a cheap tablet or netbook to do the job, and could potentially afford it with the money you save by getting a desktop as your primary computer. Keep in mind that you'll still have to buy a monitor if one doesn't come as a bundle with the desktop.

(Note on laptop screens: If you're planning to use your laptop for mostly work, consider a matte screen, which will have less glare and be easier on the eyes. If your laptop will be a media device, a normal glossy LCD screen should do the job.)

2. Know the processor and what it means

The simplest way to explain the processor is that it's the brain of the machine. If you want a fast computer that boots up programs in a flash, completes tasks as soon as you start them, and doesn't keep you waiting, then you want the strongest processor available - and who doesn't? You just have to know what you're looking at when you see a processor's details.

Basic: the short and simple of processors is in the number of cores and the speed (labeled in GHz or Gigahertz) of the processor. The speed of the chip will tell you how much data it can process in how much time, so the bigger the number, the better. The number of cores functions as a multiplier, as the processor is actually a stack of cores that each run at the listed speed (e.g. a single-core 2GHz processor is a lot slower than a four-core 2GHz processor).

Multiple cores can also help with multi-tasking, as each can be working on different tasks. If you don't use a lot of programs at the same time, you may be content with just one or two cores and don't need to fork out the extra cash to snag a few more. Make sure to ask how many cores are on the chip and what the clock speed is. Two computers might both say they have an Intel i5 chip, but the number of models that go into the group are many, and their speeds and core counts can be leagues apart.

Advanced: If you want to get into really nitty-gritty bits of the processor, check out the benchmark tests at CPUBenchmark. You can compare a number of different CPUs to see if you're getting the best one, and even see if you're getting the best for your money. Also, check out the L1, L2, and L3 cache sizes - these are the closest and fastest memory spaces to the CPU and the bigger they are, the better. You can also see how many threads the core has - again, the more, the merrier.

3. RAM isn't just a type of goat

Just as the number of processor cores in a computer affects its speed and ability to multitask, the amount of Random Access Memory, or RAM, in a computer can affect just how much multitasking it can handle and how fast it will be. RAM is basically a small, extra-fast form of memory (like L1, L2, or L3 cache, but bigger and slower).

Basic: Nowadays most RAM is measured in gigabytes, and as is often the case, the more, the merrier. By having more RAM, your computer is able to keep more data close at hand, rather than having to go digging around through the slower hard drive for the information it needs. Of course, because RAM is smaller, there is only so much room for data. That's why it's useful to have more RAM if you want to keep multiple tasks going at the same time, and to be able to jump between them relatively quickly. If you're also guilty of having too many web browser windows open at the same time, more RAM will make that a lot easier.

Advanced: There is, of course, a bit more to RAM than just the size of it. If you check out the specifics of the RAM in a computer and see that it's DDR2-800, you can get a quick sense that this is a faster memory than one labeled DDR2-400, as that last number signifies how many millions of data transfers the RAM can make each second. RAM also has clock speeds, similar to processors, and the faster, the better. However, that speed is limited to the speed of your computer's motherboard, so if you're buying RAM separately from your computer, figure out the speed of your motherboard and don't buy RAM that's any faster - as it will probably cost you more for no reason - and don't buy RAM any slower - as it will force your motherboard to run at the slower speed. One final number you can note is in the module name, where you may see something like PC3-8500, which indicates that the memory can transfer around 8,500MB per second - once again, the bigger, the better.

4. Hard drives aren't hard choices

Every computer needs data storage, and though that is something RAM does, the majority of it will go onto your hard drive. There are typically a few different options you'll need to consider in the search for a hard drive, but what it really comes down to is how you plan to use your computer.

Basic: If you plan to just have your computer and no peripherals, you may want to opt for the biggest hard drive you can (measured in gigabytes, or terabytes for extra large drives), since all of your files and programs will be stored on the computer. If you don't plan to have many applications on your computer, and won't store media on it, then you can opt for a smaller hard drive and save yourself some money. If you can handle a small hard drive but want to it be extra fast and you have the cash, consider going for a solid-state drive, or flash hard drive.

Advanced: The size of your drive is one thing. If it's a disk drive, the spin speed is another. Naturally, the faster your hard drive disk is spinning, the quicker information can be gathered from it. So, between a 5400rpm drive and a 7200rpm drive, the second would be faster. If you can handle having only a few larger programs installed on your computer at a time, and plan to keep everything else stored on an external device, you can probably get a quick device with a solid-state drive to keep the computer zippy at all times, and still manage to stream high-quality media through a USB connection - some applications may even be able to run from an external hard drive. You'll also want to pay attention to data transfer bandwidth. The higher, the better.

5. Check your peripherals

The peripherals on your computer are going to be pretty specific to your needs, so you'll need to think about whether you'll need them, and just how many of them you want. You may want ten USB ports but not have a care in the world about having a DVD drive. On the other hand, you may do everything online and just want as few holes in your machine as possible for soda to spill into and frazzle the circuitry.

USB: There is, thankfully, a standard that most computer peripherals opt to use, and it can be for anything from mouses and keyboards to hard drives and monitors - heck, you can even plug a guitar in via USB if you've found the right cord. A modern version of USB, called USB 3.0, is faster than its predecessors, but there's an even newer version of USB, called USB Type-C, which offers gigabits of bandwidth and the ability to handle enough current to power a laptop. While USB Type-C will eventually become the single technology that you'll use to connect all your devices, and is a good thing to have on a new machine, you'll need to avoid off-brand cables that can fry your brand-new computer.

If you plan to transfer a lot of data, make sure you have a fast USB port- or a fast wireless network. An alternative for some major externals (like CD drives and hard drives) is to get a computer with an eSATA port, which will let you plug in those peripherals on the fly with high data transfer rates.

HDMI: If you're going to use your machine for entertainment, you'll probably want an HDMI output. This will allow you to connect it to most modern televisions for a high-quality visual display, and it will also run the audio out if you're planning to use the TV for sound.

SD slot: If you work a lot with photography, an SD slot can be a handy way to get the files from your camera over to your computer. For computers with small hard drives, an SD card can also function as a small, out-of-the-way addition to the computer's overall memory. For the slightly more savvy users, SD cards can even be used to speed up the system.

Wi-Fi: if you plan to connect to a lot of networks a lot of places and want to do it wirelessly, you're probably best off getting a built-in Wi-Fi receiver rather than working with some sort of external Wi-Fi device. If you're running a desktop computer, you can probably get away with running an ethernet cable straight into the computer without being constantly annoyed by the need for a wire to get internet.

Bluetooth: Just like Wi-Fi, you can get a built-in Bluetooth receiver with your computer, and that may be a smart move if you want to be a true wireless warrior. Whether it's for sending audio to headphones or to a 7.1 channel surround sound set up that will keep your neighbors on their toes, Bluetooth is a handy way to make those connections easy and tangle-free. It may be worth it for these types of uses, otherwise, you can probably save yourself a few bucks by not seeking it out.

6. Mac OS, Windows, and Linux, oh my!

The short and simple of it is that you should probably stick with what you're familiar with, as it can be hard to adjust to a new operating system unless you're ready to put in the work. If you know what Linux is, you probably don't need to read this section. If you don't know what Linux is, you almost definitely don't want it.

If you want an easy-to-use system that keeps most things basic for you, check out Mac. If you like a little bit more control of your computer's nitty-gritty, you'll probably have an easier time getting to do that on Windows. If you're comfortable with an operating system, stay with it. However, it's worth noting that not all software is available for every operating system; so, if you absolutely need Final Cut for that feature film you're shooting on the weekend, don't buy a Windows computer expecting it to run Mac-only software.

7. There's more to graphics than a sticker on your computer

Lately, computer makers have been tagging stickers on their computers to boast about the AMD or NVIDIA graphics cards they have included in their machines. Unfortunately, those mean thousands of different things, and it's pretty hard to tell just what.

Basic: If you just want to know whether the card in the computer on the left is better than the one in the computer on the right, you can do a quick search on PassMark's site for the graphics components in each. Some buzz words to be aware of are "integrated" and "dedicated." The former is built into the computer's processor and relies on the computer's memory - typically this is a lower performance graphics component. A dedicated graphics card will include its own processor and memory, and will tend to be higher-performing - though a very old card might not best modern integrated graphics.

Advanced: If you're looking into the specifics of graphics processors, you will have to think of them like their own pair of a processor and RAM. This is another case of the more, the merrier. Higher speed, higher capacity RAM in the graphics card will let it handle a more intense graphic load and do it quicker. This will allow for better, more fluid visuals. The card's processor speed will be similarly important and can be looked at much the same as a computer's processor. You can dig into the details and see how many shaders it has and what its core speed is, but in the end, it will probably be most valuable to check out a benchmark score that has evaluated its actual performance.

8. Oh, so you want to get into PC gaming?

To play the latest games with the graphics on high (or ultra) and keep a high frame-rate, you'll be needing to look into a truly high-performance machine. Modern games take up a lot of space, so a big hard drive is a must if you plan on having more than one game installed at a time - you'll want it to be a fast drive, too. Running those games also takes a lot of processing power, so a heavy-hitting processor will be important. You can do without too many cores in your processor if each is extra-fast, but if you're planning to play your games and keep other programs open in the background, consider bumping up the core count.

Integrated graphics? Forget about it. Unless you want to sputter out low-quality visuals on the newest games, you'll need a dedicated graphics card, and a good one at that. You can probably get by with something in the mid-range of graphics cards, but a high-end card is your best bet. Be sure to get plenty of VRAM on that card. When it comes down to making your choice, you'll still probably be best consulting the benchmarks mentioned on the last page.

Thinking about anything other than Windows? Reconsider. Some games are made available for Mac and Linux, but there will be a great number of games unavailable to you if you aren't running Windows - though there is the tricky option of dual-booting.

Thinking about a laptop? Reconsider again. As mentioned in the beginning, there is a premium to be paid for cramming high-end hardware into an extra small box, and a PC gaming rig requires a lot of high-end hardware. There are plenty of quality gaming laptops out there, but in most instances, they will be more expensive than an equal desktop. Then there's the problem of overheating, which a laptop will be much more prone to do. An added benefit of going with a desktop is that you will be able to swap out components or add more when the games' demands start to trump your computer - upgrading to a new graphics card is much easier in a desktop, and in some cases a second graphics card can be added to share the load. With a little careful shopping, you might be able to grab a gaming rig and a cheap netbook for the same price you would have paid for a gaming laptop.

9. Great, now how do we buy it?

One of the most important things to do when buying a new computer - as with any expensive purchase - is to be very patient. Technology evolves fast, and if you buy a new computer today, you might not have noticed a newer one was set for release tomorrow - and would have likely cost the same as the one you just bought, or made yours less expensive to buy. You could get into a logical loop that has you waiting indefinitely, but choosing the best time to pounce is key.

Check refresh cycles for products. If you know 'Computer Maker A' comes out with a new model around the same time every year, expect to get a discount on an old model just before a new one comes out, or wait until the new one is out so that you have the latest technology.

It can also be useful to get friendly with the computer maker's website, as they often allow you to customize a computer rig with the components you want. On top of it all, you're much more likely to stumble across an incredible sale if you shop regularly for a good stretch of time instead of just spending the better part of a day to make your pick and purchase it then and there. Also, don't be afraid to spend a few more bucks to nudge up your computer's specs - this can be helpful down the road, as it will ensure your computer can handle the more intensive tasks that will only start to show up months and years down the line. If you make the cheapest purchase, you might be looking at buying another new computer much sooner than you would otherwise.

One last tidbit: Go ahead and ask a salesperson to give you a deal. Maybe they won't bump down the price of the computer, but if you're going to need a mouse, a keyboard, a monitor, or any other device to go with your computer, see if they will cut off sales tax or give you some other discount for purchasing the items together. You will often be pleasantly surprised.

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9 Key Things to Know Before You Buy a New Computer

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Buying a computer is no easy task, and with the cost of many of the machines out on the market today, you want to make sure you're making the right purchase so you don't blow your money on something that stops meeting your demands within a year.

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If you're looking for a computer that can fit anywhere and do almost anything, a small form-factor PC is your best bet. The best ones offer power and portability, make the right compromises, and still come in at a good price. This week we're looking at five of the best, based on your nominations and suggestions.

Earlier in the week we asked you what the best small form factor PCs were. We're talking about full x86 systems here, so while (as you'll see in our honorable mentions) there was a lot of love for other platforms, there were plenty of tiny PCs nominated as well that would be perfect for home theater PCs, kids' computers, office computers, space-saving build platforms, or even modest gaming rigs that don't take up a lot of space but are still designed to be used with your favorite peripherals.

Here are your five most popular nominees, in no particular order:

The HP Stream Mini earned a lot of praise when it came out for being a surprisingly capable tiny little powerhouse. It fits in the palm of your hand, and our friends at Gizmodo gave it high marks for packing powerful components into a tiny case. The Stream Mini packs an Intel Celeron processor under the hood with 2GB of RAM (upgradable to 16GB), a 32GB SSD, Windows 8.1, Gigabit Ethernet and Wi-Fi, Intel HD graphics, and more into a round, flat computer that fits in the palm of your hand. Of course, you can see the tradeoffs already-storage and RAM are some of the big ones, but the Stream Mini also has a card reader on the front for more storage, four USB 3.0 ports on the front and back of the case, and HDMI and DisplayPort out so you can connect to a monitor or a TV, whatever you prefer. All of that comes at a price tag of $180 direct from HP, and you have a great little machine for a home theater PC, a children's computer (or a parents' computer, depending), or a PC that you need to perform lightweight tasks anywhere you don't traditionally want a desktop, or don't want to bring a laptop.

Those of you who nominated the HP Stream Mini pointed out that even though it's a tiny system, it's extremely upgradable, and those memory and storage shortfalls can be easily improved either before you buy, or long after. Its size and shape make it a perfect HTPC, some of you mentioned, and despite its Celeron processor, some of you noted that it can be quite snappy and speedy-especially once you get something like Kodi Media Center on it, or if you prefer, your favorite Linux distro. You can read more in its nomination thread here.

The Intel NUC (or Next Unit of Computing) series of mini PCs is more of a form factor than a specific product, mostly because you can order NUCs configured in different ways and in different shapes depending on what you need. That said though, the NUC series shares one thing in common-they're all small boxes (like the image above) that are small enough to go anywhere, pack Intel Core i3, i5, or i7 processors, and are shipped as "barebone kits," meaning they're the perfect platform to add the storage and memory that you need. They're more expensive than some of the more affordable models, even without drives and memory, but you can choose the processor, size, ports, and other features you need before buying. You can get a look at the various models here, and compare them here. Some of them are all glossy black, perfect for HTPCs, others are grey with removable lids, perfect for upgrading, tinkering, test machines, or secondary computers. If you really need to save cash, there are models with Intel Celeron or Atom processors as well. They almost all pack USB 3.0 on-board, many have card readers for additional storage, and most use HDMI, mini-HDMI, or DisplayPort out so you can connect them to just about any possible type of display. Pricewise you're looking at between $200-$400 depending on the kit you want, but keep an eye out, they're frequently on sale.

Those of you who nominated and supported the NUC pointed out that they're the quintessential kit for PC builders who want something smaller than they could probably build themselves, but also want the flexibility to open them up, customize them, swap out storage and upgrade memory, and really make the system fit the need they have for it. If you want your NUC to be an HTPC, you can add huge hard drives to store music or movies, or skip the storage and opt to stream everything. If you want it to be a portable workstation, you can add more RAM and a little less storage and rely on cloud storage to get by. Just keep in mind you really are getting a kit-meaning all of your peripherals aren't included. You even have to bring your own power cord. Beyond that, the possibilities are endless. You can check out the nomination thread here.

Gigabyte's BRIX series is another barebones PC kit that you can pick up and then customize with your own preferred storage and memory options. The BRIX are available in workstation, gaming, and budget-friendly models, all in glossy black (with a few of the gaming models in black with bright yellow or red accents.) More than a few of your noted that they're a bit like higher-end NUCs, with most models shipping with either budget-friendly Intel Celeron processors or higher-end Intel Core i5 or i7 processors, HDMI and mini-DisplayPort video outputs, four USB 3.0 ports, support for up to 16GB (or more) of memory, Wi-FI and Gigabit Ethernet, and Intel HD or HD Pro graphics on-board. Almost all of the higher-end models support discrete graphics, meaning that as long as the card isn't too big for the case physically, you can install your own graphics card for higher-powered gaming or more graphically demanding tasks. Again, how much you'll spend depends on which model you choose, but you're looking at between $300 and $500 depending on the model, which the higher end and gaming models being closer to $500.

Those of you who nominated the BRIX said you loved the look, and that even the budget-friendly options were great as workstations or home theater PCs. You praised them for offering great components in stock, affordable models, and being easy to work on and expand-not to mention that BRIX models have Wi-Fi and Bluetooth modules pre-installed (while other small form factor PCs make you add that on yourself.) You can read more in this nomination thread here, or this nomination thread for one of the higher-end, quad-core BRIX models (the one shown in the image above.)

The Alienware Alpha is a line of gaming PCs that work like consoles-that is, they're small and flat and are designed to be connected to an HDTV and controlled with a gaming controller as opposed to a keyboard and mouse (although that's certainly possible too.) The Alpha comes in four different models, each of which includes your choice of an Intel Core i3, i5, or i7 processor, 4GB or 8GB of RAM, NVIDIA GeForce GTX 860M+ 2GB graphics cards, and your choice of 500GB, 1TB, or 2TB SATA hard drives. Gigabit Ethernet, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and a wireless Xbox 360 controller come standard with each model, and each model ships with Windows 8.1 pre-installed. The design of the Alpha is typical of Alienware, with the glowing alien head logo in the front, sleek glossy black panels, and red accent notches cut out of one side-it's small enough to slide in where your HTPC would go, and it's powerful enough to play a lot of PC games on your big screen with solid performance. Speaking of games, this is very much a gaming system (although you can certainly use it as an HTPC or even a workstation if you choose) and it comes with a number of titles bundled and pre-installed, ready to play. Alienware's custom UI on the system is designed to work with the controller, and can do everything from launch Steam in Big Picture mode to switch to the HDMI input on the back you can use to daisy chain other input devices or consoles. The Alpha also packs USB ports for added storage or wired controllers. The Alpha starts at $499 direct, but you can catch a break on some of the models at Amazon.

Those of you who nominated the Alienware Alpha praised it for being a powerful gaming PC in an incredibly small and living room-friendly package, packing powerful graphics and a speedy processor in a small, pretty box. Alienware (aka Dell, in case that's not clear) also allows you to customize your Alpha within some degree, so if you don't want to stick to the base specs, you can add more RAM, swap in a bigger hard drive, and make a few other changes when you order your Alpha-which you'll want to do, since they're not horribly upgrade-friendly once you have them in your hand and set up next to your TV (or on your desk connected to that nice huge monitor you also use for work.) For some of you, the sheer price to performance ratio made this one the winner, but you can read all about that in its nomination thread.

The ASUS Chromebox was a tricky one to include in the roundup, but just because it ships with Chrome OS onboard doesn't make it any less of a functional small form factor PC. Depending on the model you choose, you're looking at between $160 to $200 for the standard models with Intel Celeron processors, 16GB SSDs, and 2GB of RAM, but if you look a little harder you can find Core i3, i5, or i7 powered versions for closer to $300. In any case, the standard models don't come with a ton of storage or memory, but they are exceptionally affordable, ship with Chrome OS, and include things like card readers for added storage, onboard Wi-Fi and Gigabit Ethernet, USB 3.0 ports, and HDMI and DisplayPort outputs so you can connect them to your TV or your monitor. Chrome OS works just fine as an HTPC (and the Chromeboxes can even be mounted on the back of your TV if you like), and it makes for a great and affordable workstaiton, especially if everything you do is on the web anyway, and you like the idea of an instant-on system that uses your Google account as your single key to everything you need to do.

Those of you who nominated the Chromebox explained that despite running Chrome OS, you could just as easily install linux on it if you want, but if it's Linux you want, you don't really have to replace Chrome OS to get it. You also noted that upgrading the RAM in the ASUS Chromebox models is a fairly easy process, and while there's no drive to be upgraded, it's such a small, power-sipping, and good-looking box you don't mind it mounted on the back of your TV or staring at you from your home entertainment center. You can read more in its nomination thread here.

Now that you've seen the top five, it's time to put them to a vote to determine the community favorite:

Honorable Mentions

This week's most obvious honorable mention goes out to the Raspberry Pi and Pi 2, which are more than capable of running Linux (or Windows 10, if you're interested in the preview) and functioning as a full desktop system in a palm-sized package. Of course, the Pi is an ARM-based system and we were looking for x86 machines in our roundup, but that doesn't change the fact that the Pi can do a lot of things that make the rest of these machines great options, and it's even smaller and more affordable to boot. Of course, you don't get to really customize your build, but you do get your choice of Pi model, can choose your case, and if you want, can build your own portable computer, a semi-desktop computer, a car computer, a game console, even a smartphone. It's not exaggerating to say the possibilities are endless.

Our second honorable mention goes out to the a repurposed laptop, or as it was nominated, "a laptop with a broken screen," which is an awesome DIY project and a way to repurpose any old laptop you might already have lying around. After all, we suggested that particular project not too long ago, so while it wasn't exactly the type of nomination we were going for, it was good to see it in the nominations anyway. We always did like the way it could be mounted on a slider behind your HDTV so you could slide it out when you needed to access it, then push it back in place when you didn't need to see it anymore.

Have something to say about one of the contenders? Want to make the case for your personal favorite, even if it wasn't included in the list? Remember, the top five are based on your most popular nominations from the call for contenders thread from earlier in the week. Don't just complain about the top five, let us know what your preferred alternative is-and make your case for it-in the discussions below.
The Hive Five is based on reader nominations. As with most Hive Five posts, if your favorite was left out, it didn't get the nominations required in the call for contenders post to make the top five. We understand it's a bit of a popularity contest. Have a suggestion for the Hive Five? Send us an email at tips+hivefive@lifehacker.com!

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If you're looking for a computer that can fit anywhere and do almost anything, a small form-factor PC is your best bet. The best ones offer power and portability, make the right compromises, and still come in at a good price. This week we're looking at five of the best, based on your nominations and suggestions.

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Dear Lifehacker,
I'm in the market for a new computer. My friend says it's cheaper to build one myself, but it looks like I can get a cheaper computer from Dell or Asus. I'm not afraid of building, but I'd rather not spend extra if I don't have to. Which will actually save me money?

Building a computer from scratch gives you the perfect machine for your needs, but it can be...
Read more Read

Sincerely,
Broke Builder

Dear Broke,
This is a common misconception about computer building, and it's a bit more complicated than "building is cheaper than buying" or vice-versa. Luckily, it's pretty easy to break down the basics.

For Basic, Lower-End Computers: Buy

A lot of computer enthusiasts don't like to admit it, but PC manufacturers have the power of buying in bulk that you'll never have. Even with their markups, you can often get them cheaper than building your own, especially on the lower end of things. If you don't have a lot of specific needs-that is, if you just need a simple computer for web browsing, Microsoft Office, and other low-powered tasks-you'll probably get a cheaper system by buying one, and you won't notice a big difference between it and something you build yourself.

Keep this in mind as well: often, when you buy a pre-built machine, it comes with a copy of Windows (usually $100), a mouse, keyboard, and often even a monitor or speakers. If you build yourself, you'll have to buy those things separately, and the price can add up fast.

Also, this should go without saying, but just in case: if you need a laptop, buy one. Building a laptop is a whole separate ridiculous can of worms.

For Gaming, Overclocking, and Other More Focused Needs: Build

Once you get into higher price points and more specialized needs, though, the game shifts a little bit. Many gaming-focused desktops, like Alienware machines, are actually quite overpriced. You can build a comparable computer yourself for significantly less.

Plus, if you're building a more enthusiast PC, chances are you have more specific needs, which means you can build the perfect PC for you. If you're gaming, you can skip the hyperthreaded CPU and put more money toward a better video card. If you want to get more bang for your buck through overclocking, you can pick a motherboard that lets you do so, rather than buy a locked-down, pre-built PC.

If you want to squeeze every last ounce of processing power out of your new (or aging) computer,...
Read more Read

Lastly, remember: when you build, you can upgrade more of the components, and re-use certain components in your next computer (like the case and power supply)-that isn't usually possible with a pre-built machine, since they often use proprietary parts. So over time, you may save some money depending on how often you upgrade and which parts you can save. This varies from person to person.

The Bottom Line: It Isn't So Black and White

The truth is-despite what some people may claim-there is no hard and fast rule. It depends on what you want to use your computer for. The above guidelines should help, but even they aren't set in stone. The best way to find out? Actually price out the parts yourself. See how much it'd cost to build a PC for your specific needs, and see if there are any equivalent pre-built machines out there. It's a little apples-to-oranges, but it's a good way to get an idea.

Of course, there are other reasons to build over buy, and vice versa. Getting support is easier for pre-built machines, but upgrading is easier on a computer you've built yourself. Plus it's just an empowering experience-and kind of addicting. When it comes to cost, though, it isn't cut and dry, so as with any big purchase, we recommend you do some research first to see what's best for you. If you do end up building your own, though, be sure to check out our guide on how to save as much money as possible. Good luck!

If you've never done it before, the idea of building a computer from the ground up can seem...
Read more Read

Sincerely,
Lifehacker
Have a question or suggestion for Ask Lifehacker? Send it to tips+asklh@lifehacker.com.
Title image remixed from Jonathan Zander, WikiImages, and ekwo .

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Is Building a PC Really Cheaper than Buying One?

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Dear Lifehacker, I'm in the market for a new computer. My friend says it's cheaper to build one myself, but it looks like I can get a cheaper computer from Dell or Asus. I'm not afraid of building, but I'd rather not spend extra if I don't have to.

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Computing has changed a lot in the last decade. For many, smartphones have become the go-to method of playing games, staying in touch with friends, and browsing the Web for answers to spur-of-the-moment trivia questions and viewing cat pictures. When you need something more powerful, or with a bigger screen, you might reach for a tablet. And if actual, real work calls, the laptop you'd use is probably svelte, light, and stylish. Traditional bulky desktops are increasingly rare, and when you see them, they're usually all-in-ones, or decked out with designs that are meant to be noticed. Let's face it, no one really builds their own desktop PC anymore, right?

Wrong, actually. DIY may not be all it used to be, but it's still a thriving sector of the PC industry, and one that any serious computer user-we mean the type of person who cares more about what a computer can do than how small an envelope it can slide into-should be aware of. Because, if you want the strongest, most adaptable, most upgradeable, and most personal computer you can possibly get, there's no way around it: You need to build it yourself.

By researching each individual component's capabilities and limitations, you can tailor your purchases to your exact needs now and in the future. And if your requirements or your mood change tomorrow, next week, next month, or next year, you can easily pull out and replace as few as one of the pieces, and your computer is perfect for you yet again. Nothing else gives you this much control or satisfaction. Yes, you'll have to sacrifice some-maybe a lot-of portability, but the result will be something you can totally and deeply call your own as you never will be able to with an unchangeable system designed and manufactured entirely by someone else.

Building your own PC is not necessarily an inexpensive or quick proposition. But if you're willing to devote the time and resources to the project, you will end up with the best possible computer on Earth for you -and that will make everything else worthwhile.

Shopping for Parts
The most difficult and time-consuming part of the PC-building process happens long before you start looking for the screwdriver. You can't even start thinking about assembling the individual components until you buy them-and that means doing a lot of investigating into the options (of which there are thousands) and, believe it or not, some serious soul-searching.

The first, and most important, thing to consider is: What do you want your PC to do? Are you looking for a really inexpensive system to put in the kids' room? Do you want a squat, console-like desktop that will fit right next to the TV that you can use for streaming media, or maybe as a Steam Machine? Is a dedicated work PC for your home office the goal? Or do you want the biggest, baddest build that can play the hottest new games without breaking a sweat?

We can't answer this question for you. But once you've reached a decision, you'll have a better idea of what you need to buy and how much money you'll have to spend. And then you can get on to the actual shopping.

For research and shopping, we highly recommend using Newegg.com(Opens in a new window) . It has a dizzyingly wide selection of components in every conceivable category and one of the Internet's most powerful search engines for narrowing down your precise needs. But feel free to use your favorite tool (or brick-and-mortar store).

The nuances of what components do, and how to best get them to serve your needs, is beyond the scope of this story. But the descriptions below of their functions and what you need to look for when shopping should give you a solid of idea of where to start in collecting all the parts you'll need for your PC.

Processor

If you're building a gaming PC on a budget, you'll probably want to start off by choosing a video card (see below). But everyone else can start with the central processing unit (CPU), or processor, the "brain" of the computer that, well, processes all the instructions it receives from the software you run and the other components you have installed. Because of the considerable difference it will make in how well you run every program on your PC, paying particular attention to its capabilities is crucial. Here's what to look for:

Number of cores. Back when every CPU only contained one processing unit, or core, clock speed was the easiest way to measure performance. But practically every processor today is a multicore CPU, and the more cores a chip has, the more it can accomplish at once (if it's supported by the software). Most common are two- (dual-) and four- (quad-)core CPUs, though six- and eight-core CPUs are becoming more visible on the market.

Number of threads. Most processors today, particularly from Intel, can simultaneously operate two processing threads per core (Intel calls this technology hyperthreading), effectively doubling your core count. Because not every processor supports this, check that yours does if you expect to be running a lot of multithreaded applications.

Clock speed (operating frequency). This is the frequency at which each core in a CPU runs, or the number of cycles it is able to execute per second. The higher the number, the faster CPU will generally be per core. These days, clock speed is measured in gigahertz (GHz), or billions of cycles per second.

Cache (L2 or L3). A processor uses memory installed in the chip itself to store and speed up operations before utilizing external system RAM. This on-board memory is stored in one or more caches, which are identified L2 or L3. More powerful processors will be equipped with larger caches.

Socket type. CPUs come in different sizes, are identified by the kind of socket they plug into. (For example, Intel's most powerful current chips use the third revision of the LGA 2011 socket.) You'll need this information to determine what motherboard to buy (see the next section).

Manufacturing technology. Every year or two, processors get thinner and more power-efficient. Knowing a chip's manufacturing technology (measured in nanometers, or nm) will give you some insight into its capabilities, but is not strictly necessary.

Cooler. Most processors come with a fan rated for their specific speed and estimated heat output; unless you're planning to overclock your computer or otherwise put it through particularly traumatic paces, you probably don't need to buy another fan or liquid cooling system. (And for that reason, we're not going to dwell on the question here.) But if you do decide to buy a separate one, or if you choose a high-end CPU that doesn't come with its own fan, make sure that the cooler you get is designed for the family of processor you have or are planning to buy.

Motherboard

If the CPU is a computer's brain, the motherboard is its nervous system. Most of your other components will plug into the motherboard, so the one that you use for your build needs to be exactly what you need now, and what you expect to need from it in the future. Here's what to look for:

Socket type. A motherboard's socket type must, must, must match that of the CPU you plan to use in it.

Form factor. Motherboards come in a range of sizes, or form factors, from the tiny Mini ITX to the enormous Extended ATX. For most full-size desktop builds you'll probably want either regular ATX or the somewhat smaller Micro ATX. The form factor you get will dramatically affect both the number of other components you're able to install and what kind of case you're able to install them in (see that section below for more details).

Memory. Be on the lookout for several different attributes of how your motherboard deals with memory. You need to know the memory type and standard, which are usually listed together. For example, if your motherboard supports DDR4 2133 memory, buy that. (Many motherboard manufacturers certify certain brands of memory for use with their boards; look up the motherboard on the Web to find out what's officially supported.) The number of memory slots tells you how many individual modules, or DIMMs, you can buy; you'll also be informed of the maximum memory supported, or the total amount of all the individual DIMMs taken together (such as 32 or 64GB). You may also see motherboards labeled as tri- or quad-channel, which signifies that you can expect a noticeable performance benefit if you fill the correct number of RAM slots. Note: Many times a motherboard will be listed as supporting a number of memory types with the designation "O.C." after them-this refers to memory that is overclocked. If you don't plan on overclocking your memory (which we don't recommend, unless you're an expert or fearless tweaker), you may safely ignore these numbers.

Expansion slots. The most common motherboard form factors, ATX and Micro ATX, will have between four and seven PCI Express (PCIe) slots, for adding expansion cards. These may use either the current top-end standard, PCIe 3.0, or the older (and slower) 2.0, with designations based on the size of the slots and the number of PCIe lanes they use. The longest slots are x16, though some that look identical may run at x8 or x4; in addition, there are visibly smaller x1 slots. On a Mini ITX motherboard, however, you should only expect one x16 slot.

Storage. SATA remains the most common interface for connecting internal storage devices to your motherboard. The newest version of the standard, SATA 3, supports data transfer rates of up to 6Gbps. You may also find some other interfaces; M.2, in which a flash-based storage module plugs directly into a thin slot on your motherboard, is becoming increasingly popular, for example. Regardless, you'll want to have enough of the right kind of ports for whatever storage you want to buy. (Learn more about that in the Storage section, below.)

Onboard technologies. Just about every motherboard will feature onboard stereo sound and Ethernet, most will include integrated Wi-Fi and/or Bluetooth, and many will also include ports for taking advantage of processors' integrated video capabilities. (You won't find the last on motherboards for higher-end processors, which are designed for use with discrete video cards, and you may ignore these ports on lower-end or midrange motherboards if you plan on installing a standalone video card.) It's worth checking the specs so that you don't forego something you really want.

Video card support. Think you may want to concoct an ultra-powerful gaming machine with more than one graphics card? Even if you have enough slots to hold multiple cards, you're out of luck if your motherboard isn't designed for use with either Nvidia's SLI technology or AMD's CrossFireX, so verify that first.

Memory, Video Card, and Storage

Memory

Your computer's random-access memory, or RAM, is where data is stored while the processor is waiting to crunch the numbers. More is pretty much always better, within the boundaries of your budget and your system (if yours is 32-bit, it's limited to about 4GB; 64-bit PCs can handle up to 192GB, which is much more than any consumer desktop motherboard can currently hold), though if you use simple applications and aren't an avid multitasker, you can get away with less. The nice thing about building your own PC: If it turns out you need more, memory is one of the easiest things to add. Here's what to look for:

Type. Memory will only be useful to you if the motherboard supports it; read that section for more information. Each new standard offers some additional speed and features, but not in all situations, so don't feel as if DDR4 RAM, rather than DDR3, is an automatic must for you if you're building from scratch. Just remember that RAM is not backward-compatible, so DDR4 will not work in a DDR3 slot. The higher the number in a memory's standard, such as DDR4 2666, the faster it generally is. Faster memory designed for the same slot type will work in a slower slot, but save yourself some money and don't leave any performance on the table you don't have to.

Capacity. DIMMs for each memory type come in a variety of capacities, so you can buy what you need and can afford. It's best to buy at least one chip for each memory channel (three for triple-channel, four for quad-channel), and memory often comes in "kits" to make that easier; and we don't recommend mixing and matching capacities within any one build. If you see a capacity listed as something like "8GB (2 x 4GB)," this means the total amount of RAM is divided up between a number of chips (in this case, two DIMMs of 4GB each, for a total of 8GB).

Memory timings. Most memory specs include a series of four numbers, separated by hyphens, that provide an at-a-glance way to tell how speedy the memory is. The first number, CAS latency (the amount of time between when the memory controller requests data and when it's available) is the most significant, and may be listed by itself. The lower the numbers, the faster you can expect the memory to be.

Other specs. Error Checking and Correction (ECC) memory is intended for high-performance systems such as workstations and servers; you will need a motherboard that specifically supports this type of memory if you want to use it (and most ordinary users won't need to). Voltage numbers give you specific information about how the memory uses power, with higher voltages typically meaning speedier RAM-but this is something only overclockers will really need to know.

Video Card

Though integrated graphics systems are more commonplace today than ever, even the best versions in the latest processors can't deliver what you can get from even a lower-end discrete video card. If you're into gaming of any sort, a video card is a must, but any programs that are designed to take advantage of graphics hardware acceleration, from Windows to Photoshop and beyond, can benefit from offloading video processing to a dedicated subsystem. Unless you're blasting out a tight-budget build, there's no good reason to forego a video card. Here's what to look for:

Processing cores. Like your CPU, your graphics processing unit (or GPU) has contains multiple processing cores exclusively for churning out graphics. The more of them your video card has, the better a performer it's likely to be (and the more it's likely to cost). AMD calls its versions "stream processors" and Nvidia has named its own "CUDA cores"-note that although you can't directly compare the two types, the numbers of cores are good indicators of relative power within each company's chipset families.

Clock rates. As with your CPU, this is the speed at which the graphics processing unit, or GPU, runs. It's not unusual to see cards with fewer processing cores and faster clock speeds, or vice versa, so try to find the best blend for the amount of money you have to spend.

Memory. Video memory (VRAM) serves a function for video cards that's similar to what ordinary RAM does for the rest of your computer: It stores the data until it's needed for processing. This matters less if you're playing at lower resolutions, where there aren't as many pixels and other visual effects to be wrangled, but, as a rule of thumb-as with RAM-more tends to be better. (You'll see 4GB or more on the highest-end video cards.) Also pay attention to the memory clock speed, which can also function into performance.

Ports. A video card isn't worth much if it's not hooked up to at least one monitor. Look at the list of its ports to determine whether your card outputs to DVI, HDMI, and DisplayPort; if you'll be using your computer with a monitor you already own, you'll want to know ahead of time whether you'll need to buy an adapter. Another good idea is verifying how many monitors the card can drive at once: It may not be the same as the card's number of output ports.

Power requirements. Video cards are among the most power-hungry PC components you can buy, so know what you need to get from your power supply. Usually there will be a minimum value you should respect, and you'll also be told the specific number of PCIe power connectors (six- or eight-pin) you'll need in order to get the card to work, as well as the number of amps needed from the power supply (see that section below for more information about this).

Storage

Even if you love smartphones and tablets, you have to admit that storage is one of their biggest weaknesses: You seldom get that much, and you're pretty much stuck with whatever you buy. When you're building your own PC, that's not a problem-it's easy to add or change more pretty much anytime you want. But even if you don't have to worry too much about capacity, you need to make a few other crucial decisions. Here's what to look for:

Hard drive or SSD? The average price of solid-state drives (SSDs), which store data on flash memory, has dropped a lot in recent years, making them a better choice than ever to add to your computer if speed in booting up and accessing files is what you crave. But by and large, they're still punishingly expensive on a cost-per-gigabyte basis compared with traditional, slower mechanical hard drives: It's not hard to track down a 3TB hard drive that costs $100 or less, whereas consumer-oriented SSDs top out at about 1TB-and those will run you $350 at an absolute minimum. Because of this, the classic advice is still the best: Pair a lower-capacity solid-state drive (256GB or so is a good compromise), for installing Windows and your most important programs, with one or more spinning hard drives for housing all your data. Another option may be a hybrid drive, which stores most of your data on an inexpensive hard drive but uses a tiny amount of flash memory for things you use most frequently; this can save you a lot of money, but because of how the underlying technology functions, the performance will not always match what you get from a true hard drive-SSD pairing.

Interface. Serial ATA (SATA) connections are still common, especially for hard drives, and your motherboard will undoubtedly have plenty. But for major speed advantages, you can also buy newer SSDs on PCIe cards that install directly into your motherboard's expansion slots and use that much faster bus. Other interfaces, such as mSATA and M.2 are less common, but you may want to take a page from space-saving smaller systems and consider M.2 (which plugs directly into a motherboard port) for use as a boot drive. Just be certain your motherboard supports whatever standard you intended to use.

Form factor. This refers to the size of the drive, with hard drives coming in 3.5- or 2.5-inch varieties, and SSDs coming in 2.5- or 1.8-inch models. For desktop computers, form factor doesn't always matter much, though you'll need to have the right kind of space in your case for whatever drive you choose.

Hard drive specs. A couple of extra details may appear on hard drive listings that you won't see when researching SSDs. Most consumer hard drives spin at either 7,200 or 10,000rpm, with the speedier drives costing more and using more energy. You can also select the amount of cache memory your hard drive uses (up to 128MB) to boost performance. This information is useful for detail-oriented purists, but is of limited use if you don't plan to use your hard drive as your boot drive (which, as mentioned above, we don't recommend).

Is optical optional? Now that most software is purchased and delivered digitally, an optical drive may not be a necessity for you, particularly if you don't plan to install a lot of older programs. If you don't want an optical drive, you'll need another strategy for installing the operating system; use another computer to create an installation USB key, for example. If you do want a drive, it may be worth it to splurge a bit on a Blu-ray burner (they cost around $100, or about five times what you'd pay for a DVD burner), so you can watch high-definition movies you may have hanging around.

Power Supplies and Case

Power Supplies

You can buy the best components to be found on the Web, and they'll be useless if you can't actually turn your computer on once you've finished building it. A power supply unit (or PSU) may be the most unappreciated of components, but without it, nothing else will work, so don't forget to give it the thought it deserves. Here's what to look for:

Maximum power. This is the highest amount of power the PSU is capable of directing to your components. The less complicated or intense the build, the lower a number you can get away with-for most people, 500 to 750 watts will be fine. But if you're using high-end parts, particularly energy-sucking video cards (or more than one), your power needs could raise to 1,000 watts or even more. Checking your components' power usage or thermal design power (TDP) is vital-get a power supply that's too weak, and your computer may not even turn on.

Voltage rails. Simply put, voltage rails are like individual power circuits within your PSU, with each of the major varieties (+3.3V, +5V, and +12V) powering different kinds of components. In most cases, the most important one to pay attention to is the +12V rail, as that's what will be driving your video cards; one of these capable of supplying 34 to 40 amps should be enough for the most powerful cards you can currently buy, and is likely to be more reliable than using multiple +12V rails for the same job.

Form factor. Like other components we've covered here, power supplies come in a variety of form factors that determine the kinds of hardware you can use with them, and under what circumstances. The most common for mainstream motherboards right now is the ATX12V, but you may also see others (such as EPS12V), and you may need to buy a smaller power supply if you're building a system too miniature to fit a full-size ATX power supply, say.

Connectors. Power supplies come in two varieties: one in which all the cables are preattached, and another (called modular) that lets you connect only the cables you need. In either case, your PSU still has to have the right connectors, whether six- and eight-pin for video cards, SATA for newer hard drives and SSDs, or Molex for older drives and other devices. The good news is that if you don't have all the connectors you need, adapters aren't too tough to find. Still, it's easiest to verify that you have what you need ahead of time; the PCIe connectors for the video card are most likely to trip you up, so find out what your card needs so your PSU can supply power in the proper way.

Case

Yes, you'll need a case to house all the other components you buy, and that's what we'll focus on here. But remember that it's also the outward expression of your computer's personality-and your own. How big should it be? What shape? What color? Do you want a window? Make these decisions, too, so your final computer will look every bit as good as it runs. But as far as the necessary specs, here's what to look for:

Form factor. Though a case can basically be as big or as small as you want it to be, what matters more is which form factor of motherboard it's designed for. One intended for ATX motherboards will have room for the board and the proper number of expansion slots; a Micro ATX motherboard is smaller and will have fewer slots, though the case itself may not necessarily be smaller; and smaller form factors still, such as Mini ITX, may require other adjustments to your component choices (less storage, for example, or maybe a smaller power supply). Many larger ATX cases can also be used with motherboards of other form factors; as long as yours is supported, you should be fine.

Front-panel ports and controls. You'll definitely want to access all of your computer's features, and its front-panel ports are the way to do that. Every case will have Power and Reset buttons and an activity light, and most will also have headphone and microphone jacks and USB ports; some may even have fan or lighting controls. Just remember that you'll need to connect any front-panel ports to the motherboard, so cross-comparing those specs ahead of time is a good idea.

Drive bays. You'll need someplace to store your hard drives and SSDs, and any other devices you may be using. Generally speaking, cases may have one or more 5.25-inch external bays for optical drives other enthusiast gadgets, and multiple bays for 3.5- or 2.5-inch hard drives and SSDs. (Some cases also have externally accessible 3.5-inch bays for easily swapping hard drives in and out.) The smallest cases, though, can have very few of these, so pay attention, or risk not being able to perform necessary upgrades later.

Fans and filters. Cooling is one of a case's most important functions. Your case will probably come with one or more intake or exhaust fans, and have room for adding more (in several sizes, from 80mm on up) if you want them. Removable filters, which capture dust to keep your PC's interior tidy and are easy to clean, are also common on higher-end cases.

Putting It All Together

Putting It All Together

Once you've decided on and purchased your parts, it's time to do the really exciting/fun/scary thing: assembling them all. Believe it or not, this is less difficult than it may sound, especially now that tool-free cases are de rigueur and you won't need your Phillips screwdriver for installing much more than the power supply and the motherboard. But doing things in the proper order will help out a lot.

What follows is the basic procedure we used while building a higher-end system for testing hardware here in PC Labs. It illustrates most of the points you'll encounter in your building, though the details will differ a bit depending on the components you buy. The basic techniques, however, seldom vary much from build to build.
1. Get Prepared
Just as a chef wouldn't fire up the stove without the mise en place ready to go, neither should you. Unpack all your components, remove the packing material from them, and arrange them cleanly on a large, flat surface. The floor will absolutely work if that's all you have, but try to avoid doing it on a carpet-static electricity remains a major danger for electronics, and frying your system before you even get to use it is one shock you don't want. (If you're concerned, you can use an antistatic wrist strap or ground yourself by touching some bare metal, such as the frame of your empty computer case, before you start working with anything else.) Also, open up the main side panel of your case, because that's where your build will begin.
2. Install the Power Supply
You won't need the power supply until much later in the build process, but you're better off installing it first because once the other components are in place, it becomes a lot more difficult to put the supply where it needs to go. Position the PSU in the bay with the fan pointing downward (many cases will have a vent there) and the screw holes lining up with the holes on the back of the case. Secure the power supply with the provided screws, then drape the cables over the side of the case to keep them out of the way while you work on everything else.

Most of the time, it's going to be easiest to install some components on the motherboard before you put the motherboard in the case-you'll have a lot more room to work that way. The processor definitely qualifies for this treatment. Begin by opening the socket. If you're using an AMD CPU, just lift the lever to release the locking mechanism; you'll also need to do this for Intel chips, but notice that a metal cover will also secure the chip in place, and that needs to be lifted as well. (On higher-end Intel chips using the LGA 2011 socket, two levers hold down the socket cover, and you'll need to lift those one at a time.) Once the socket is opened, use the arrows printed on the socket and chip to align the CPU correctly, then lower it gently into the socket. (With AMD processors, the pins are on the CPU, so they'll need to all go down into the proper holes and the chip sits flat before proceeding.) Once the chip is in place, secure the socket again by reversing the procedure you used to open it.

4. Install the CPU Cooler

Some fans and coolers may come with the necessary thermal compound already applied. If yours doesn't, squeeze a small dab onto the center of the top of the processor; you can spread it around evenly with something like a business card if you want, but this isn't strictly necessary. With most stock coolers, you just align the support posts for the cooler around the socket and secure them in place; each cooler is slightly different in this regard, so refer to its instructions for exact directions on doing this with the model you have. If you're using a liquid cooler (such as the one shown in this paragraph) or another aftermarket cooler, you may need to install mounting hardware on the underside of the motherboard or configure a universal support mechanism for use with your specific motherboard and processor-either is another good reason to install the cooler while the motherboard is still outside the case.

The RAM bays are opened with the little clips at either end (some motherboards use only one set of clips, but most have two)-just push them down. Align the notch in the memory connector to the raised "key" in the RAM bay (you could do damage to the DIMM if it's not oriented correctly), then push the DIMM firmly into place. When it's correct, the clips should rotate back up and lock the memory in. Repeat with your other chips. Note: If you're using multiple-channel memory, the DIMMs should be installed in the proper channels if you want the according speed boost. It's pretty easy if, say, you have a quad-channel board and only four memory bays, but it might be more confusing in other situations, though the bays are often color-coded to clear things up. Consult your motherboard's manual if you're not sure.

Each motherboard comes with a specially designed I/O plate that labels each of its ports and helps close off the back of the computer from dust and other intrusions; you don't absolutely need it, but it's a really good thing to have. Align the plate right-side up (you may want to compare it to the back of the motherboard, just to be safe), place it inside the wide space at the rear of the case, and push on it-hard-until it locks into place on all four edges.

Finishing Touches

Although some cases come with preinstalled motherboard risers, which prevent the board from directly touching the metal of the case, most don't. To find out where the risers should go if you're not sure, place the motherboard in the case and see which holes in it correspond with which holes in the case, then screw the risers that came with your case into those holes. (Some cases have the holes needed for the various form factors marked so you won't have to either do this or guess.) Once the risers are in, tighten each of them as much as you can. Guide the motherboard gently into the case, pushing its rear-panel ports through the correct openings in the I/O plate, and then laying the motherboard on top of the risers so you can see them through the screw holes. Insert and screw in half way all the screws; once they're in, and you've verified that the motherboard's position is correct, go back and screw them all in the rest of the way. Be careful not to overtighten the screws.

The video card plugs into the longest (x16) PCIe slot on the motherboard, the first in the series of slots. Open that slot on the case, either by unscrewing the cover blocking it or utilizing your case's tool-free mechanism. Line up the card's backplate with the slot and the gold connectors (avoid touching them) with the slot itself. Then push the card down until it clicks. Secure the card in its position using whatever method your case employs. Note: If you're using an extra-wide video card or multiple video cards, you'll need to open more than one slot.

Because every case is different, it's tough to provide a single blanket explanation for how to install the specific drives for your build. Most 5.25-inch drives, if you're using them, will either screw in place or use a simple tool-free system on one or both sides of the drive cage. It's not uncommon for 3.5-inch drives to install using caddies or trays, though they may also screw into a smaller cage below the 5.25-inch one (almost always at the top of the drive well). And many of those same trays will also have space for 2.5-inch drives, though some of these drives come with adapters that let them work easily in 3.5-inch bays, or other slots (such as on the floor of the case or beneath the motherboard tray) may be provided for installing them. Other drive form factors, such as mSATA or M.2, install into special slots on the motherboard itself; and still other drives can be placed in PCIe slots. The manuals for your motherboard and any unusual drives will have the information you need about this.
10. Connect Your Cables
With all your hardware installed, it's time to start linking everything together. Run data cables from your drives that need them to the appropriate ports on the motherboard. (SATA ports are often located along the edge of the motherboard.) Ensure that everything that needs power gets it: Connect the appropriate cables from the power supply to the motherboard (you'll probably need two for this: one terminating in a 24-pin plug, another in a four- or eight-pin plug), to your video card (one or more of the six- or eight-pin cables, probably labeled PCIe), and to your drives (the connectors are thin and black). For bonus points, route your interior cables through the holes in the inside of the case and around the back of the motherboard if you can; most non-budget cases today are designed to facilitate this. Yes, the inside of your computer will look better (nice if you have a window), but you'll also be improving airflow, and thus the way your computer deals with heat.
11. Connect Your Wires
The final step in making it possible to interact with all the various parts of your computer-and seeing that they operate correctly-is connecting all the wires. Connect the power wires from your CPU cooler and any case fans to the proper pins on the motherboard; sets are clearly marked for "CPU Fan," "Chassis Fan," or "Aux Fan." Then connect the wires from the front panel to the appropriate headers: USB will be common here (note that the 2.0 and 3.0 standards' headers look different), as will the headphone and microphone jacks (which will connect via the same audio header), but you may have other esoteric ones to deal with as well. Last, but not least, link the bevy of tiny front-panel wires linked to your activity lights and Power and Reset buttons to the pins on the motherboard. These are almost always labeled on the board itself, but they can be hard to see, and it can be difficult to know which of the two-pin connectors goes where. Again, consult your motherboard manual if you have any questions as to what goes where-you won't do any permanent damage if you screw this up, but your buttons might not work and your lights might not flash correctly, and that can sometimes be even more annoying.
12. Start Using Your PC
That's it. You'll still need to install Windows and software, and tweak the BIOS or UEFI settings to your liking, so there's a fair amount of work yet to be performed. But remember that this doesn't have to be the end of the process. Want more speed? Swap out the processor for a faster one. Tackle more demanding projects by upping the RAM. Make your games more exciting by replacing your video card with the latest and greatest model. Add another hard drive or two or three. The choice is yours, and you can change your mind at any time-and upgrading individual parts (aside from the motherboard) is invariably easier than starting from scratch. In any event, rest easy knowing that you're doing it all on a PC you built especially for you, and that will always reflect your needs and desires in a way no tablet or laptop easily can. Sure, maybe a desktop is limited in some ways in 2015, but you'll have more freedom than with any other setup. And don't be surprised if you find that the satisfaction you derive from putting it all together yourself, is well worth the loss in mobility.

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Computing has changed a lot in the last decade. For many, smartphones have become the go-to method of playing games, staying in touch with friends, and browsing the Web for answers to spur-of-the-moment trivia questions and viewing cat pictures. When you need something more powerful, or with a bigger screen, you might reach for a tablet.

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Maybe one for the kids to teach them how to code?

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Maybe one for the kids to teach them how to code?

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Computer Kit | Raspberry Pi Computer & Coding Kit | Kano | Kano.me

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Updated: Buy the new Kano Computer Kit, with Raspberry Pi 3. Get exclusive light ring, projects, apps and more. Anyone can buid their own computer & learn to code with Kano. Ages 6+.

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Computer less than $100?

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We know what you want. Yes, you. You want a computer, but you don't want to pay much for it. In fact, when you see today's Surface Books and MacBooks effortlessly soaring beyond $1,500, it just makes you queasy inside.

That's okay. If you'd rather pay more for groceries than electronics, we've got computers right in your price range. Specifically, the cheapest computers that currently exist on the market. None of these ten machines sell for more than $100.

Go to any random computer forum online and start asking about the cheapest computer ever - chances are very good that one of the top answers you get will be the Raspberry Pi, which was designed as a fun little project by the appropriately named Raspberry Pi Foundation. This little motherboard is, well, just that. It's amazing that there's room for a GPU, 512MB of RAM, 2 USB ports, and more on this guy. You can hook it up to pretty much any TV or monitor that you want, and use it with a typical keyboard and mouse, too. What's not to love?

Definitely the winner for cutest name, this PC stick has more memory options than average, with an SD card clot included for 64GB in addition to 32GB of internal memory. Of course, that doesn't leave too much space for serious hardware, but the PC stick does quite well with a 1.3GHz processor and 2GB of RAM. It runs Windows.

Read: Meegopad TO2 challenges the Intel Compute Stick with a lower price
Buy it now from: Amazon

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Want a computer for less than a Benjamin? We've rounded up 10 options

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We know what you want. Yes, you. You want a computer, but you don't want to pay much for it. In fact, when you see today's Surface Books and MacBooks effortlessly soaring beyond $1,500, it just makes you queasy inside. That's okay.