# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
🛑 Como Hacer PANELES LED RGB caseros con CARTÓN!!! - En casa

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
DIY animated RGB logo box - 3D print or laser/CNC!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
✨Cómo crear CARTELES LUMINOSOS impresos en 3D con Fusion 360 y tira LED

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
After quite a few nice plane models I started to create car models. They are roughly sorted by year. Please note that I am not a car savvy whatsoever. If you know details you think I should add, just let me know.

The successor of the legendary Model T that started the assembly line revolution, this car is my epitome of a vintage car.

The VW Beetle is one of the best selling cars in the world. Over 21 million cars were built by the German manufacturer Volkswagen. It's streamlined shape, the air-cooled engine with the distinctive sound and the trunk in the front are the most noticeable features.

The forefather of the Jeep is the Willys MB. Developed in the 1940s this 4x4-truck was supposed to be small, relatively cheap and produced in large quantities. The soldiers loved the vehicle for its endurance and agility. This tiny model, made from seven layers of plywood sports the distinctive features like the nine-slot steel grille, the spare tire and the gasoline canister mounted on the back. I decided against adding more details (like the steering wheel) because it would have resulted in to fragile elements. The glue-up is still a little tricky, but the parts are cut really fast.

The Fiat Nuova Cinquecento (500) was built from 1957 through 1975. The 500 derives from the cubic capacity and the first version had 13,5 horsepower which propelled the vehicle to a maximum speed of a blazing 50 miles per hour. Probably easy fast enough for a traffic jam in Rome.

After my model of the Willys MB I wanted to make another cabriolet to make use of plexiglass for the windshield. I used a dark colored material, which gives this model a very cool look. As I come from Bavaria myself a BMW was an obvious choice. The 507 is not one of the most familiar models, but sure Elvis fans will know that their idol drove one of these babies once.

Looking for another model to feature my super-cool rotary engraved tires I came across the classic Mercedes Benz Unimog. The multi-purpose 4x4 truck was developed in 1945 and the 406-series started in 1963. The name is an abbreviation of Universal- Motor- G erät.

It's a beast. No more words needed for a 1964 Porsche 904 GT!

The Ford GT40 Mk2 (GT stands for Gran Tourismo) did win the "24 Hours of Le Mans" four times in a row. The original reason for the development was kind of a revenge of Henry Ford II on Enzo Ferrari for breaking up the negotiations for the sale of Ferrari to Ford.

This is the American muscle car as I see it. There might be other applicants, but hey, ...

My first simplified car model was the 1969 Ford Mustang. It still is one of the most downloaded things I published. In the course of a attendance at a maker fair I revisited the model and upgraded it to use layers of various width. As I wanted to create a larger model for th fair I used 10 mm as the standard width, 18 mm for the colored core and 4 mm for the thin layers. In order to create the impression of actual tires I used two different woods. The new car interior with seats was another enhancement I adopted from other models I published.

This is the car that stands for the German car manufacturer Porsche. The nine-eleven or "Neun-Elfer" is the epitome of German "Ingenieurskunst" with a rear-mounted six-cylinder boxer engine and a legendary durability. It made it on the 5th place of the Car of the Century.

With all my models I have a maximum simplicity in mind. But sometimes a single detail gives this little extra cnc-ish flavor. In this case, the tires are engraved to get the cool thread that is the main feature on monster trucks.

This fictional car model has some resemblance with a Rallye car. The type of design differs greatly from my other car models as it's a real 3d-object not stacked slices. I wanted to try of the 'Sculpt' functionality in Fusion360. It works a little like digital clay but it focuses more on technical design than Sculptris I used for my Toothbrush Stand „The Snout".

I got an application for making another simplified layered model. This time a motorcycle of the Bavarian manufacturer BMW. The 1200 GS is a pretty big offroad machine with - as the name suggests - 1200 ccm in a two cylinder boxer motor. Actually, I had a predecessor of the bike and I really liked it.

This design was a request of a reader who is part of a Vespa club. He asked me if I could draw a simplified model of the classic Vespa. My simplification did work surprisingly well. A few round overs helped to show the distinctive features, especially the fenders.

I am not the biggest fan of motorized vehicles as such, because of the negative impact they have on the environment, but I adore the design language of this Italian beauty.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
After quite a few nice plane models I started to create car models. They are roughly sorted by year. Please note that I am not a car savvy whatsoever. If you know details you think I should add, just let me know.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The Observer Magazine commissioned me to create a cover image to accompany a feature about coping with stressful decision making. The article contains interviews with several notable people including Chesley Sullenberger, the pilot who successfully landed a plane on the Hudson River, and Julia Brothwell, a British Red Cross team leader. For the imagery I referenced a stress game or buzzer game, by bending a metal rod to spell out the word 'Calm' which I then attached into a base. I worked with Sara Morris to capture the final image.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The Observer Magazine commissioned me to create a cover image to accompany a feature about coping with stressful decision making. The article contains interviews with several notable people including Chesley Sullenberger, the pilot who successfully landed a plane on the Hudson River, and Julia Brothwell, a British Red Cross team leader.

# data[].attributes.body
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEKzaj_Rs4I

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Now it's time for wiring.

First we are going to pull out a few feet of wire and cut 2 pieces. Using a drill placing the two wiring in the chuck and holding the other ends while we spin the wire to create a nice looking coil of wire. This will really dress up the exposed wire in the finished project.

Next we need to drill a hole for that wire to pass through the bottom plate.

After feeding the wire through the hole, Dylan stripped the two ends of the wire to get ready for soldering. Before soldering, we hot glued our power plug and switch into the base.

Dylan adds a little solder to the end of the wire to prepare it to be connected to the power plug. Adding solder to the end of the wire and to the terminal on the plug will make the connection easier. The first wire gets soldered to the ground terminal of the power plug.

We added a little hot glue over the connection to keep it in place. Pro tip: Use compressed air to cool the hot glue quickly.

Now solder the other wire to one terminal of the switch.

Cut a small piece of wire and solder it to the positive terminal on the power plug and the other end to the other terminal on the switch. Because we added the small wire between the power and the switch, this makes sure the light only turns on when switched on. If we had connected both wires coming through the base to the power plug, then the light would come on as soon as you plugged it in.

After making sure the two halves of the base would still go together, we moved onto wiring the light section.

Run the wire through the hole in the top of the light hood, strip and add solder to the ends of the wire. We used an LED light strip that can be cut to any length. The last step in wiring is to solder the positive and ground wires to the LED strip.

After we pushed the strip into the hood and added hot glue to secure the lights and the acrylic in place.

Last step after we checked and made sure everything worked was to screw the two base halves together.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Now it's time for wiring. First we are going to pull out a few feet of wire and cut 2 pieces. Using a drill placing the two wiring in the chuck and holding the other ends while we spin the wire to create a nice looking coil of wire.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Laser Cut Elk Head Trophy DXF File Free Download - 3axis.co

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The vector file Laser Cut Elk Head Trophy DXF File is AutoCAD DXF ( .dxf ) CAD file type, size is 585.02 KB, under 3d puzzle, animal, deer, elk vectors.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
*Click here to learn more about Design Challenges*

Test out your 3D design abilities in the BOSEbuild Design Challenge! Brought to you by Bose and Ultimaker, this challenge provides you with the opportunity to customize an enclosure for the BOSEbuild Speaker Cube!

Create a unique 3D design that can adorn two opposing, not adjacent, panels of the enclosure and you could be on your way to winning an Ultimaker 3D Printer, BOSEbuild Speaker Cubes, or Bose Noise Canceling Headphones! (To preserve the original audio performance of the speaker, you must only design a single or two opposing panels.)

There are also two special judges' prizes for the best designs using and Fusion 360! Get your copy of Fusion 360 today; it's free for hobbyists and startups & students and educators.

Unlike other contests, you don't create an Instructable to enter. Instead, simply download the start files provided, open your favorite 3D modeling program, and design a custom enclosure for the speaker. Once you have your design, you can enter the STL files and images right here on the contest page where it says Enter Now!

Submit the design as both an STL file and the native file type for whichever 3D modeling program you used. Upload your complete design and any individual panels, silhouette decals, or assembly clips as well. The team at Bose will be test-printing several designs and individual pieces to try them out in real life! For a Tinkercad file, please submit a public link along with your design files.

Have a question? Post general inquiries about Design Challenges to this forum topic. Visit this forum topic if you have a specific question about the Speaker Cube Kit!

Start Files
Design in Tinkercad Download Now >>

Design in Fusion 360 Download Now >>

See the BOSEbuild in several 3D formats Download Now >>

Download the BOSEbuild assembly clip Download Now >>

Design decals using the Silhouette Cover Template Download Now >>

The BOSEBuild Design Challenge is closed.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Click here to learn more about Design Challenges* Test out your 3D design abilities in the BOSEbuild Design Challenge! Brought to you by Bose and Ultimaker, this challenge provides you with the opportunity to customize an enclosure for the BOSEbuild Speaker Cube!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Como Hacer una Casita de Madera | Paso a Paso

# data[].attributes.body
https://www.vix.com/es/cine/193884/7-dialogos-de-las-peliculas-animadas-que-todos-nos-sabemos

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.provider_name
Free Real Time Voice Changer and Modulator - Voicemod

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Change your voice with awesome effects

Be a robot, a demon, swap genders, become famous with a celebrity voice-changer, or even transform into a musical superstar with autotune. It's your call! We have a huge library packed with voice effects to turn simple gaming moments with teammates or in proximity chat into hilarious memories. Use the free voice changer for April Fools' Day or Halloween pranks too.

And if you are a streamer, let your viewers take control of your voice with Voicemod Bits Twitch Extension!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Free Real Time Voice Changer & Modulator - Voicemod

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Download now for FREE Voicemod a funny & scary voice changer app. A voice transformer and modifier with effects that makes you sound like a girl or a robot

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Build The Ultimate Smartphone Projector

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Build A Smartphone Projector! (Using Shoebox)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Fusion 360: Portable Ping Pong Kit

Ever since I learned how to use Fusion 360 and a desktop CNC machine, I have been a stellar gift giver. Nothing says thank you more than a handmade present. That's why for this Father's day, I designed and built something my dad could enjoy inside and out of the office. A good way to relieve stress or to unwind after a hard day is to playing ping pong. I challenged myself to create a versatile ping pong kit that is compact and could travel with you wherever you go.

The kit consisted of two primary pieces: the paddles and net holders. Each net holder would clamp to the side of a table of other surface of just about any width or height. Once placed on the table, the net would be wound up using the knob on top. A neat feature about the paddles is that the handle can fold up, leaving it with a minimal footprint.
Thingiverse Link

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

The 1000th Contest

Battery Powered Contest

Hand Tools Only Challenge

Step 1: Download Fusion 360

This along with all my other design projects are designed in Autodesk Fusion 360. It is a free cloud based modeling software that enables you to develop ideas and into physical products. Click the link below to download a free trial of the software. I don't think you'll regret it.
Download Fusion 360 for Free!

Step 2: Ideate

Before even jumping into Fusion 360, I went ahead and made several sketches of my idea. By doing this, you eliminate the need for an excessive amount of prototypes. This is done in Industrial design to help save money and time when working with a client.

Step 3: Sketch in Fusion 360

Here, I create a side profile for both the net holder and paddles. This is done by using simple lines, rectangles, and circles. The attached video is a quick tip video on using the sketch palette.

Step 4: Modify Sketches

To start, we will use the Press and Pull tool to extrude the faces of the planes we had just created. On the net holder, I added a fillet along the edge to give it a clean look. Also with the net holder, you will get the piece as one body. To separate this, you need to use the Split Body command in the Modify drop down. The video above will help explain this process.

Step 5: Add Slot for Clamp & Make Handle

So this is where the process of making these two parts will diverge, and I will let you know which instruction is for which piece.

Net Holder: Create a new sketch on the back of the design for clamp to lock into. We also need to realize that id these pieces are loose, they will not come together properly. Thats why I created two more sketches showing how to add tabs to the design possibly for rubber bands. You will also need to make the bottom piece a bit smaller to fit in the hole you have extruded.

Paddle: After separating the two bodies, copy and move the handle on either side of the paddle. This will allow for a good grip to ensure maximum performance. I also made 2 slots in my design, that allow for the handle to be assembled, and to be folded up to a smaller form. In the negative of this space I created a E shape looking piece to fasten the handle. Finally, you will need to add a 3/4 inch x 3/4 cylinder to secure the two parts of the handle together and allowing it to pivot.

Step 6: Making the Net Fastener

Now that we are all done with the paddle, lets move onto finishing the net holders. As can be seen in the drawing, I needed to create a middle section that can hold the velcro end of the ping pong net. It also needs to spin to allow the user to adjust the net length to their table size.

First, I will offset the opening, and create a top cap for the design. After pulling it, I will create another offset on the bottom of the cap. This dimension will be based on the thickness of your main body. I will then extrude the offset section up into the design to cut the piece.

Start a new sketch on top of the cap and draw a circle in the middle, then cut through the shape.

Step 7: Design Spin Piece

Next, we will be making a new sketch to revolve. This will be a piece that allows for a similar functionality to a bearing in that it can spin but wont allow the piece to fall out of the cap. Once modeled, make a new sketch on the bottom of the bearing piece. This will be extruded and will need two 1 inch rectangular holes for the velcro straps to slip through.

In the top cap, edit the face to match the bearing. Simply make a convex wall on the cap and a concave sketch. that will be revolved, for the spin piece.

Step 8: Render Design

This is optional, but in Fusion, you can add color to your design by dragging in a particular material or appearance. To reflect the classic ping pong theme, I went ahead and chose white and red for the colors of my model.

Step 9: Make!

My desktop machine of choice is Boxzy CNC. It is a versatile 3 in 1 tool that gives you a new level of possibility that didn't exist before in a 3d printer or desktop CNC machine. I used the Boxzy Lab at Techshop Pittsburgh to produce my parts.

I was able to CNC cut the faces of the paddle and then quickly switch to 3d printing to create the other parts. After this, I assembled the parts and was just about done...

Step 10: Play!

Once you are all done, play with your newly made project! Feel free to customize it to your needs and make sure to share them with me. If you have any questions, please let me know :)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Fusion 360: Portable Ping Pong Kit: Ever since I learned how to use Fusion 360 and a desktop CNC machine, I have been a stellar gift giver. Nothing says thank you more than a handmade present. That's why for this Father's day, I designed and built something my dad could enjoy inside a...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Minimalist Phone Case - Fusion 360 & 3D Printing

I have a phone that I really like - the Sony Xperia X Compact. The reason I bought it was really simple: I wanted the smallest, nicest Android phone I could find with a good camera. I never thought the future of smart phones would be the goliaths everyone carries around nowadays.

I haven't found any cases I like for the phone. They tend to make it way more bulky, which defeats the purpose of having a small phone. So I decided to spend some time this weekend prototyping a smaller, minimalist aesthetic phone case.

I carry the phone without a case, and have dropped it quite a few times. Only the corners seem to be wearing down, so my focus is on those.

My design criteria:
(1) The case should only minimally change the overall size of the phone.
(2) The case should add very little weight to the phone.
(3) None of the buttons should be obstructed. Same for the camera, light sensor, speakers, or headphone jack.
(4) The corners should be fully protected. Existing damage should be covered up.
(5) I should be able to set the phone on a surface without the body contacting that surface.
(6 - bonus) I should be able to put an ID and credit card into the strap to replace my wallet from time to time.

Step 1: Plan of Attack

Here's the design and prototyping process I'll use:

(1) Identify important features of the phone. Set these up as User Parameters.
(2) Make an initial, 4-cornered CAD model based on measured features of the phone.
(3) Print the prototype and do a fit check.
(4) Iterate User Parameters until I have a good solid fit. This will probably involve decreasing both Width and Length so that the phone case has some tension.
(5) Once I'm happy with all the fit checks, I'll print a final version with the thinnest case possible.

Step 2: Identifying Important Features

I'll be rapid-prototyping this phone case, so I'm going to use good design habits to save myself any headache down the road.

The idea is to identify any geometries I think will be important for the fit of the case, measure them before starting the CAD process, and be able to quickly change them during fit checks. As I iterate phone cases, I'll make tweaks to these values to fit the phone more securely.

So the very beginning of the design process is to either sketch or quickly generate a model of the object you're interested in. In this case, I'll start with my phone, and build the case up around it. It's useful to have this diagram on-hand to reference as you build the CAD model.

Step 3: Setting Up User Parameters

Before I even start modeling the phone or the case, I'll input these user parameters, cross-referencing the diagram I built in the last step. You can create a new User Parameter by pressing the green "+" sign (circled in red).

You'll want to measure these values with as much accuracy as possible. Use a pair of calipers and maybe a set of radius gauges. The more accurately you input your initial values, the less times you'll have to iterate to get a solid fit. But don't go overboard: most 3D printers don't print with enough precision to perfectly reproduce your initial values.

I'm also adding a few unmeasured values (fillet sizes) to help make the phone case stronger and more aesthetic. I can experiment with changing these values in the CAD environment to get a look I like before sending prototypes to the printer.

Step 4: Model the Phone

Step 5: Model the Other User Parameters

Use the Fillet tool to add the two fillets that were selected at the beginning of the design process.

This is also a good time to add any geometries you think the case might interfere with. For my Xperia phone, the only port I'm worried about is the headphone port, so I add that by extruding a circular cut into the end of the phone in the proper location.

Now, experiment with your User Parameters! Change them all and make sure that the model responds properly.

Step 6: What If Your Phone Is Different?

My phone has a pretty unique geometry in a world full of iPhone-looking bezel monsters. The approach I've taken here can absolutely be used with other types of phones, but you'll be interested in other features when you input your User Parameters. Here's an example.

The rest of this process should work just fine based on any phone geometry (I think....).

Step 7: Start Modeling the Phone Case

The first step I took here was to model a single corner piece. Soon, we'll mirror that piece across the phone's body, then mirror again to make 4 corners. The dimensions of the corner piece will be based on some User Parameters, especially "StrapThickness", which is a User Parameter that expresses how thick I want the case to be.

Right-click on your design name, and select "New Component". Name the new component "Case." Activate that component.

Start a sketch on the base plane, and give it some dimensions:

The distance from the edge of the phone to the outer edge of the case should be "StrapThickness". You should see the lines along the edges of the phone turn purple. That's super important: it means those lines are adaptive, and will change their location if you change your User parameters!

The other two dimensions are up to you. In my case, I can avoid my screen by making the corners about 14mm x 6.35mm.

Now stop the sketch and extrude the corner. Use your User Parameters! In one direction, you want to extrude by "StrapThickness." In the other direction, extrude by "Thickness + StrapThickness" so that you cover the thickness of the phone plus the thickness of the case.

Throw a fillet on there. If you want the case to hug your phone, use the same radius as below ("SideRadius").

Step 8: Cut Out the Inside of the Case Corner

Subtract the phone body from inside this first case corner using "Modify -> Combine." Select the case corner as your Target Body and the phone as your Tool Body. Use "Cut" as your operation.

Make sure to check the mark next to "Keep Tools" so that the operation doesn't delete your phone body entirely.

This is a good time to try changing your User Parameters a little to make sure the cut adapts accordingly.

Step 9: Mirror the Corners

Activate the top-level design. Make the Origin visible by clicking on the light bulb next to it. We'll mirror the case corner about one origin plane, then the other. This is why we placed our initial phone body rectangle right at the origin.

By selecting "Component" as the mirror type, you are making an exact copy of the original corner - not only that, but updating the original corner will update the new one and vise-versa!

Now mirror the original and new corner components about the other plane.

We'll combine all these 4 corners into a single component after adding some tension straps to hold them together.

Step 10: Add a Strap

Step 11: Combine Corners and Straps

Step 12: Add Fillets to the Design

We're almost ready to print the first prototype. First, we want to add fillets wherever there is a sharp corner. It's good practice to assign fillets User Parameter values. In one case here, I decided to add a fillet that's 1/2 the radius of an existing fillet. Doing this makes it really easy to tweak these values and see how it looks before actually printing the part.

We aren't adding fillets just because we want to make the case look organic and aesthetic - they serve an important functional purpose. Any time stress is put on a sharp corner, that's a point where a crack can start to propagate, leading to failure of the part. In engineering, we call a sudden corner like this a "Stress Concentration." Fillets reduce the magnitude of that stress concentration, and make the part last longer.

Some of the fillets I'm adding here serve this purpose. Others are just for looks. The question is always whether we can use a fillet to prevent stress concentrating at a sudden changing geometry.
When stress cracks start to propagate on passenger airplanes, technicians drill circular holes at either end of the crack, basically using a fillet to reduce stress concentration.

Step 13: Prepare the 3D Print

Step 14: Rapid Prototyping the Design

I have now printed 3 versions of the case.

V1
The first case had corners that were just too small. But they fit the case pretty snugly, so I didn't need to change the height or fillet dimensions of the phone in later iterations. The straps don't provide enough tension to hold the edges against the sides of the phone, and the case pops of easily. I think it's likely that printing this case with a more rigid material would work well, but the TPU is too elastic for this design to work well.

V2
The V1 straps weren't quite tight enough, so I decreased the User Parameters "Width" and "Length" by 0.05in each to pull the corners closer together. I also increased the length of each corner to come up right to the edge of my phone's screen. The V2 case was almost tight enough to hold the case tightly on the phone, but it kept falling off in my pocket. I decided I needed to add two more support struts to give it stability.

Step 15: Rapid Prototyping the Design

With the support struts added, the case fit very nicely. The small changes to the Width and Height dimensions were ideal to give a little extra stretch so I can fit a couple cards or some cash on the backside of the phone.

V4
The 4th iteration of the case is on my 3D printer now. I'm happy with the current design, but want to see how thin I can make the case. I've moved down from 0.05in thickness to 0.03in.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Plastic Contest

The 1000th Contest

Battery Powered Contest

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Minimalist Phone Case - Fusion 360 & 3D Printing

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Minimalist Phone Case - Fusion 360 & 3D Printing: I have a phone that I really like - the Sony Xperia X Compact. The reason I bought it was really simple: I wanted the smallest, nicest Android phone I could find with a good camera.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: 3d Printed Lamp With Fusion 360 3d Splines

I have never used 3d splines on Fusion 360 before. I want to learn how to use them so when I saw this contest I think this was the perfect opportunity to test this out. I want to design a lamp and 3d print it on my kossel 3d printer. This is the result and I have to say I am really pleased with the result.

I work on a mac with fusion 360.

Supplies:

Mac with fusion 360
3d printer
PLA plastic
Light bulb
Light bulb socket
Cable (I use a nice white one instead of a regular cable)

Step 1: Designing on Fusion 360

As i wrote n the last step I have never used 3d splines on fusion 360 before, but when I try the, i have to say it was a really nice experience, I thought this was going to be harder (i have use 3d splines on another 3d softwares at the past), but it was really easy and intuitive.

The way I design the lamp was to made a 2d spline, the move the nodes with the move tool in 3d space. Then I made a square and extrude along the path of the 3d spline. I use an angle to make it look more natural. At the end I just copy the result solid in a circular pattern, then mirror the same solid and repeat the circular pattern operation.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Work From Home Speed Challenge

Epoxy Speed Challenge

Sculpting Challenge

Step 2: Slicing the Model

I use slic3r and repetier to slice the stl model and send it to the printer.

Step 3: 3d Printing the Lamp

I 3d print the part on white pla on a kossel flsun delta 3d printer.

You can see a timelaps of the print in here:

https://youtu.be/gUjHTJInoyc

Step 4: Tests and Dents

It took some part to test the print. One time I was 6 hours into the print and electricity go away for 20 seconds. This was enough for octoprint to loose track of the print and the printer stop. After some tests and hours of printing finally I end one print.

Step 5: Putting All Together

I took the lightbulb socket and the extension cord I use as cable and assembly all in place.

Step 6: Finally

Finally I plug in the lamp to see its light. I think is a good idea to use a led lightbulb to prevent overheating but putting that aside I'm really pleased with how the lamp turn out.

If you like this you can follow me on instagram to look at more projects and 3d prints.
@tekespin_3d

Or in: https://tekespin.com

Thanks for reading this instructable.

Teacher Notes

Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
3d Printed Lamp With Fusion 360 3d Splines

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
3d Printed Lamp With Fusion 360 3d Splines: I have never used 3d splines on Fusion 360 before. I want to learn how to use them so when I saw this contest I think this was the perfect opportunity to test this out.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Design a Micro Drone in Autodesk Fusion 360

Overview
This instructables guides you through how to design and manufacture your very own microdrone! If you choose, these tutorials will enable you to compete in the global school based competition called Airgineers! More information can be found on the Airgineers website.

Using Autodesk Fusion 360, you'll be taken step by step through the process of how to design and 3D Print your own Micro Drone Chassis. Once you have designed your chassis using Fusion 360, you'll export your design as a STL, ready for 3D Printing. Finally, you'll will be shown how to assemble, simulate and reduce the weight of your drone in preparation for a test flight!

But First, What is the Airgineers Micro Drone? Before we jump into Fusion 360, let's take a few minutes to have a look at the Airgineers Micro Drone that you'll design, 3D print and assemble!

Step 1: Getting Started in Fusion 360

Instructions:

1. If you haven't already downloaded Fusion 360, you'll need to click here to download the software. Don't worry it's free for education and hobbyists.

2. Sign in to Fusion 360, if you haven't already got an Autodesk Account you'll need to create one.

3. Start by opening a new design in Fusion 360 by going to file and then new design.

4. Make sure to save your design and continue saving throughout the tutorial, go to file and then save.

5. First, start by going to create and new component. Name the new component 'Drone Chassis and press ok.

6. Next, go to Sketch and then Create Sketch. Select the bottom plane to start drawing your sketch.

7. Start by creating a Center Rectangle around the origin, change the dimensions to 47mm x 47mm.

8. Using a Center Diameter Circle, place the centre of the circle on a corner of the rectangle made previously. Change the diameter of the circle to 8.2mm.

9. Draw another Center Diameter Circle on the same corner, this time change the diameter to 6.2mm.

10. Go into the sketch menu and select offset. Use the offset tool to offset the smaller 6.2mm circle inwards by 0.5mm creating a circle with a diameter of 5.2mm.

11. Once you have draw the three circles, go to the end of the toolbar and stop sketch.

12. Next, go into the create menu and select extrude. Extrude the outside ring downwards by a distance of -15.5mm and press ok.

13. Go in to the Drone Chassis Component and find the Sketch folder. Find sketch 1 and turn on the lightbulb to make it visible again.

14. Again using the extrude tool, extrude the inside ring downwards by -0.5mm, making sure the operation is set to join and press ok.

15. Lastly, go into modify and select fillet. Select the bottom edge of the motor mount and apply a fillet with a radius of 0.5mm and press ok.

Step 2: Creating the Drone Base

Instructions:

1. Go to create and pattern, select circular pattern.

2. Select the ducting as the object to pattern, then select the Y axis (or axis pointing upwards) as the axis to create the pattern around. Change the quantity to 3 to add three more ductings.

3. Go into sketch and Create Sketch, again choose the bottom plane to sketch on.

4. Using the line tool, draw a line going from the origin along the axis with a distance of 19mm.

5. Next, go into sketch and down to project, select the project tool and click on the outside edge of the top and bottom ductings on either side of the line. Press Ok when complete.

6. Then go back into sketch and select 3 point arc. Start by selecting the centre of the top ducting, then select the centre of the bottom ducting. The third point should be placed on the end of the line drawn previously.

7. Using the offset tool, offset the arc in both directions by 0.75mm to give an overall thickness of 1.5mm.

8. Go into create and select extrude, then select the arc profiles joining the top and bottom ducting together. Extrude downwards by a distance of -3mm.

9. Again using the circular pattern tool, change the type to features. Select the last feature in the timeline as the feature to pattern and the Y axis (or axis pointing upwards) as the axis to pattern around.

10. Finally, go into modify and combine, select the main section of chassis as the target body and then any unselected bodies as the tool bodies. This will create one single body.

Step 3: Creating the Battery Tray

Instructions:

1. Go to sketch and create a new sketch on the bottom plane or top face of the drone chassis.

2. Start by drawing a centre rectangle around the origin, change the dimensions to a width of 20mm and a height of 40mm.

3. Next select the offset tool, offset the rectangle by 1.5mm outwards.

4. Using the project geometry tool, select the inside edge of the top and bottom arc of the drone chassis.

5. Then use the extrude tool to extrude the two sides of the rectangle downwards by -3mm and press ok.

6. Once complete, go into the inspect menu and select section analysis.

7. Select the side plane ... as the plane to perform a section analysis. Notice how the drone appears cut in half, a new folder called Analysis will have appeared in the browser.

8. Create a new sketch on the same plane as the section analysis.

9. Place a two point rectangle on the top edge of the drone chassis going downwards, roughly place the rectangle halfway between the origin and ductings. Change the dimensions of the rectangle to 1,5mm wide and 2,5mm high going downwards.

10. Use the dimension tool in sketch to dimension the rectangle 10mm away from the origin by select the origin and the inside edge of the rectangle. Stop Sketch.

11. Next, use the extrude tool to extrude the rectangle outwards. Change the direction of the extrude to symmetric. Select the inside face of the battery tray. Notice how material only seems to extrude on one side. Make sure to turn the lightbulb next to the analysis folder off.

12. Finally, go to create and select Mirror. Change the type to feature and select the last feature in the timeline. Select the plane running down the centre of the drone to mirror the feature.

Step 4: Creating the Ductings

Instructions:

1. Now you've completed the bottom section of the drone, go into the bodies folder and hide body 1, we'll turn it back on later.

2. Next Create a sketch on either side plane, start by selecting a two point rectangle.

3. Following the axis, place the first point away from the origin on the axis. Draw a rectangle with a width of 1.5mm and a height of 6mm going upwards.

4. Go into sketch and select the dimension tool. Dimension the rectangle 17mm away from the origin and then stop sketch.

5. Then go into create and select revolve, select the rectangle as the profile to revolve. Then select the axis pointing upwards as the axis to revolve around.

6. Now you've created a ducting, go into modify and select move. Change the type of move to point to point. Turn back on sketch 1 in the browser using the lightbulb. Select the ducting as the body to move, then select the origin as the first point. The target point is one of the four corners of the square.

7. Once the ducting is in place, go in to create, pattern and then select rectangular pattern.

8. Select the ducting as the body to pattern, then select a directions. Choose an edge of the square as the direction. Change the quantities in both direction to 2 and the distance to 47mm. The distance maybe positive or negative depending on the directions. Check to ensure that each corner of the drone has a ducting.

Step 5: Completing the Chassis

Instructions:

1. To complete the chassis, start by creating a new sketch on the bottom plane.

2. Next select a Center Diameter Circle and draw two circle around the origin, one with a diameter of 36.5mm and another with diameter of 39.5mm.

3. Then go back into sketch and find the project geometry tool, select the inside edge of all four ductings.

4. Once the sketch is complete, use the extrude tool to extrude the four profile connecting the ductings together. Change the distance to 6mm and make sure to change operation to join.

5. Next, go to modify and select fillet. Using a Rule Fillet, select the top face of the drone and apply a radius of 0.75mm.

6. Go back into sketch and create another sketch on the bottom plane.

7. Draw a Center Diameter Circle on axis half way between the origin and the chassis. Change the diameter of the circle to 3mm.

8. Use the Dimension tool to dimension the circle 19mm away from the origin.

9. Extrude the circle upwards by a distance of 6mm, make sure to change the operation to join.

10. Then go to create and select the hole tool. Select the top face of the extruded circle, use the blue circle to move the hole to the centre of the mounting. Change the diameter of the hole to 1mm and the depth to 7mm.

11. Using the mirror tool, change the type to features. Select the last two features in the timeline, then select the plane going through the middle of the drone.

12. Finally, turn body one back on using the lightbulb. Go to modify and select the combine tool. Combine the top and bottom of the drone together.

Congratulations! You've successfully completed a basic drone chassis!

Step 6: Weight Reduction

Instructions:

1. Change the physical materials of the drone chassis from Steel to ABS.

2. Weigh the overall design of the drone chassis by right clicking on the chassis component and going to properties. Take a note of the weight.

3. Go back into the timeline into the sketch prior to the revolve. Take our a section of the rectangle by drawing a two point rectangle in the bottom right corner, change the dimension to 0.75mm wide and 3mm high.

4. Go back in to the revolve feature and unselect the rectangle previously drawn in the last step.

5. Then go into the chassis properties and check the weight again. It should have reduced by a couple of grams.

6. Try also to reduce weight in other areas of the drone such as the motor mountings, without compromising the strength and structure of the chassis.

Step 7: Chassis Simulation

Instructions:

1. Change the workspace over to simulation, notice how the workspace changes.

2. Select a Static Stress Simulation to create a new study.

3. First, go in to study materials and make sure that the material is set to ABS.

4. Next, go into constraints and structural constraints, apply a fixed constrain to the top of the battery tray.

5. Then go into loads and apply a structural loads, apply a force to the bottom face of each of the motor mountings. Change the magnitude of the load to 200N (Quite a lot for a tiny drone)

6. In solve, select the tool Pre Check to ensure you have all information required for the study.

7. Then go to solve and click solve. Depending on your computer, either solve the simulation locally or on the cloud. Wait for the results to return.

8. Once the results have returned, look at where stress is being applied to the drone. You can always go back into the model workspace and make changes to increase strength.

Step 8: Manufacturing Drawings

Instructions:

1. Change your workspace from model to drawing, select drawing from design.

2. Stick with the default settings for the sheet.

3. Start by creating a base view of the drone design, you may need to change the orientation and scale of drone to 1:1

4. Next try adding a projected view by going to views and projected view. Click on the views you want to add and then press enter on your keyboard to add the views to the sheet.

5. Try adding dimensions to the drawing using the dimension tool .

Step 9: Export to 3D Print

Instructions:

1. Once you're happy with the overall weight and design or your chassis, it's time to get your drone ready for 3D printing.

2. To export your design as an STL file, go into the the toolbar and into Make. Then open the 3D print tool.

3. Next, select the body which you wish to export as an STL.

4. Change the refinement of the STL file to high, this will produce a better resolution mesh.

5. If you already have a slicing software installed such as Cura. You can export directly to the slicing software by checking the send to Print Utility box and selecting the relevant software.

6. Alternatively, you can also just export as an STL file by unselect the Send to Print Utility check box. Press Ok and save the STL file onto your computer.

7. If you don't know how to slice an STL file, there are plenty of tutorials available on Instructables to guide you through the process.

Step 10: Drone Component Assembly

Instructions:

1. Start by downloading the drone components which can found on this instructables page. You'll need a clockwise and counter clockwise propeller, Motors, PCB and Battery to complete the drone.

2. Once downloaded, go to the data panel and access your project folder. Click on upload and select the downloaded files to place them in your folder.

3. Make sure to activate the top component in your browser by click on the white circle or right clicking and then activate.

4. Then either drag in all the components, or right click on the component and insert into current design. In some cases you will need multiple components such as the motors and propellers

5. Use a combination of As built Joints and Joints to assemble the drone together. Follow the video tutorial to learn how the drone is properly assembled.

Step 11: Motion Studies

Instructions:

1. Now you have fully assembled the Drone, we can now start to animate different parts of the design to check it is functional.

2. Start by making sure that the Joints folder is turned on in the browser, to do so go turn the lightbulb on next to the joints folder.

3. Go into Assemble and then click on Motion Study, this will allow you to animate your design.

4. Click on one of the revolve joints on your design, this will bring up a timeline in your motion study.

5. Select a point towards the end of your timeline, it will ask for how many degrees you'd like to rotate across.

6. Change the degrees to a multiple of 360, depending on the direction of the propeller this number could be either positive or negative.

7. Once you've animated one joint, click on the play button to watch the animation. Check to see if the propeller is going in the right direction.

8. Now try animating the rest of the revolute joints to complete the animation. Make sure to press Ok once you're happy with the motion study.

9. A 360 video going around your drone and an exploded view can be created in the animation workspace.

Step 12: Advanced Drawings

Instructions:

1. To create a more advance drawing of your assembled drone, change your workspace to drawing and create a new drawing from design.

2. Make sure to create a drawing from the full assembly to include all the components.

3. Again, start by placing a base view of your drone as covered in a previous lesson.

4. To produce a more detailed drawing, a section view and detail view can be added to the drawing. Follow the video to learn how to add both views.

5. In order to get more difficult dimensions, try adding a centre mark or centre line to correctly identity the centre of your drone or ductings.

6. Additionally, a parts table can be added to the drawing by going to table. Click on table and choose somewhere on your drawing to place the parts list. The software will automatically label all the parts using a balloon, however additional text can be added using a leader.

7. Make sure to save the drawing file by clicking save. If any changes are made to the model file, they can be easily updated in the drawings file.

Step 13: Rendering

Instructions:

1. To create a photorealistic render of your drone, change your workspace from model to render.

2. Start by applying an appearance to your drone. Open the appearance library and choose a suitable material. Click and drag the material onto your design to apply it.

3. Materials can be edited by right clicking on the materials found under 'In this design'

4. Next, try changing the environment around your drone, either choose from a solid colour or background. Different backgrounds can be found in the backgrounds tab.

5. Change the camera view around your drone design to a dynamic view which shows off your drone.

6. Depending on your preference, either render your drone using an in canvas render or cloud render.

7. Capture the in canvas render using the window capture tool if using the in canvas render.

8. Or download the file from the rendering gallery if using the Cloud Rendering, once it is complete.

Step 14: Applying a Decal

Instructions:

1. To finish off your design, go back into the render workspace to add a decal.

2. Go on to the internet and find a picture you'd like to apply to your drone.

3. Then go to the toolbar and open the decal tool

4. Click on the picture icon and select the image you'd like to apply to your drone.

5. Then choose the face which you'd like to apply the image, you may need to move or rescale the image.

6. Finally, create another render of your design with the decal applied, using an in canvas or cloud render.

Step 15: Building Your Drone

Now you've completed this tutorial on Fusion 360, it's time to create your own physical 3D printed drone.

To buy a drone kit, follow this link to the Airgineers Website.

To learn how to build, configure and fly your drone, go to the Airgineers Website or follow the last steps of the Tinkercad Airgineers Tutorial.

Thank you for following this tutorial. We hope you learned a few things in Fusion 360 and happy flying!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

The 1000th Contest

Battery Powered Contest

Remix Contest

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Design a Micro Drone in Autodesk Fusion 360

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Design a Micro Drone in Autodesk Fusion 360: OverviewThis instructables guides you through how to design and manufacture your very own microdrone! If you choose, these tutorials will enable you to compete in the global school based competition called Airgineers! More information can be found o...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Beehive Lantern

A quick and easy lampshade or lantern that creates a cosy ambience at home. The layered beehive-like design diffuses light softly and creates patterns on wall. Use a laser cutter and make it out of your desired sheet material!
Software used:
1. Autodesk Fusion 360: for initial 3D modelling. You may use your preferred 3D software but the useful thing about Fusion is the Slicer plug-in.

2. Slicer for Fusion 360: automatically slices your 3D model and creates cut-out plans that can be exported.
Materials:
3. Adobe Illustrator: vector file format that most laser cutters work with.
Let's get started!
Any sheet material that can be laser cut. I used a 2.7 mm thick single wall corrugated cardboard. But it could be plywood or sheet acrylic. I would suggest thinner material over a thicker one though.

Step 1: Download the Files

Here are the original files I used to make this lantern.

F3D file is the Fusion 360 model, but I also uploaded it in IGES format that can be opened in another software like Rhino.

The AI file is the one I sent to laser cutter.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Work From Home Speed Challenge

Epoxy Speed Challenge

Sculpting Challenge

Step 2: Make Changes to 3D Model (optional)

You may wish to modify the 3D model, e.g. change the geometry, shape, scale up or down. Up to you!

Step 3: Make Changes to Slice Arrangement (optional)

You may want to play around in the Slicer software, it's quite fun!

If you're working on Fusion 360, go to MAKE > Slicer for Fusion 360. This opens your 3D model in the Slicer software.

On your left you have Manufacturing Settings. Update these according to your material specs: the length, width and thickness of your sheet. Getting the thickness right is key here as otherwise your parts won't assemble! For example, my cardboard was 2.7 mm thick but I set my thickness as 2.85 mm in the program because I already had experience that 2.7 will be too tight and difficult to assemble.

Object size: you may want to tick 'original size' or scale up or down your object.

Construction Technique drop-down menu is where the fun begins. Experiment with different techniques and slice distributions. On your right a Cut Layout panel will update itself. You can keep an eye on the amount of sheets and parts that are needed for construction.

Step 4: Get Cut-out Plans

Once you've happily sliced your object, click on Get Plans at the bottom left. This creates an overview of all your parts neatly arranged on a sheet of specified dimensions. Choose a preferred file type and click Export to My Computer. I exported as PDF and it worked fine.

Step 5: Prepare Vector File

Open your exported file in Illustrator. Make sure all the lines are vectors. Follow your laser cutter operator's guidelines, e.g. change the weight or colour of lines to specific values. For example, the numbers you see on parts are essentially assembly instructions. These should not be cut out but instead "kiss cut". Consult with the operator. Save as AI file.

Step 6: Laser Cut Your Parts

Sit back and let the machine do the work :)

Step 7: Assemble

Slicer software has a useful feature called Assembly Steps. It's an animation showing the most efficient step-by-step assembly of your object.

As mentioned, each part is coded informing its position relative to XYZ axis. Numbers go from bottom to top in case of Z-axis parts. In this object, Y-axis parts assemble radially. It's quite an intuitive system.

Step 8: Enjoy Your Lantern!

Use it to cover any light source that lies around bare and abandoned.

Teacher Notes

Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Beehive Lantern: A quick and easy lampshade or lantern that creates a cosy ambience at home. The layered beehive-like design diffuses light softly and creates patterns on wall. Use a laser cutter and make it out of your desired sheet material!Software used:1. Auto...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Step 1: Supply List

Materials:
1. Two sheets of 16" x 12" 0.118" thick MDF

2. One sheet of 12" x 12" 0.118" thick translucent white plexiglass

3. WS2801 or WS2811 pixel LED strip (11 LEDs): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AG923GI/ref=o...

4. Arduino Nano: https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-nano

5. Prototype board

6. ITO (Indium Tin Oxide) Coated PET Plastic - 100mm x 200mm https://www.adafruit.com/product/1309

7. 11X 2MOhm resistors

8. 11X 1kOhm resistors

9. 10k resistor for audio output

10. 2X 0.1uF capacitors for audio output

11. MIDI jack:

12. Toggle switch: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/e-switc...

13. Push button: https://www.amazon.com/DAOKI-Miniature-Momentary-...

14. Stereo audio jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRX7KA1/ref=...

15. Header pins

16. 2X M3 nuts

17. 2X M3x12 bolts

18. Wire wrap wire

19. Scotch tape

20. Solder

21. Electrical tape

22. MIDI to USB cable if you want to play MIDI with computer
Tools:
1. Laser cutter

2. 3D printer

3. Wire cutters

4. Soldering iron

5. Scissors

6. Allen wrench

7. Hot glue gun

8. Wire wrap tool

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Work From Home Speed Challenge

Sculpting Challenge

Clocks Contest

Step 2: System Overview

At the heart of the Bucky Touch is an Arduino Nano. The data pin and clock pin of a WS2081 addressable LED strip is connected to pin A0 and A1, respectively. Each face of the dodecahedron has a capacitive touch sensor connected with a 2.2Mohm resistor to the send signal coming from pin A2. The receive pins are A3, D2-D8, and D10-D12. Here is a link to capacitive touch sensors: http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/CapacitiveSensor

The Bucky Touch has both a MIDI output and mono audio signal. Both these signals are discussed in Step 6. The TX pin is used for the MIDI and a PWM signal from pin 9 is used for the audio. To switch between MIDI and mono output, there is a toggle switch connected to pin A3.

The Arduino is programmed to read all the capacitive touch sensors to determine which pentagon key is being pressed by the user. It then outputs signals to update the LEDs and produce a sound, either MIDI or mono audio depending on the direction the toggle switch is flipped.

Step 3: Designing and Cutting the Chassis

The chassis of the Bucky Touch was designed in Fusion 360. My goal was to design the chassis so it could be assembled without using any glue. The LEDs slide into pentagonal faces, and walls are used to separate the light and provide support for plexiglass above the LEDs. The assembled dodecahedron then attaches to a base that holds the Arduino, jacks, and other electronics. There is a total of 113 MDF parts, and 11 plexiglass parts.

After designing the fully assembled structure, I exported the surface of each part as a DXF file by first starting a sketch on the surface. Then I exited the sketch mode, right-clicked on the new sketch, and then selected "Save as DXF." See the gif above.

The laser cutter I have accepts PDF files, so I needed a program to import DXF files and arrange the vectors of each part for cutting. I started by using Inkscape, a free vector graphics software. Inkscape works pretty well, but I wanted to find a program more similar to Adobe Illustrator. After some research, I discovered Graphic by Autodesk. Graphic costs a one-time fee of $30 and has similar interface and features to Illustrator, so I think it is a great deal for those searching for cheaper graphic design software without the annual fee. One downside is Graphic can't import DXF files. So I ended up importing DXF files to Inkscape, and then exporting them as EPS so they could be uploaded to Graphic. It is not the most efficient method, but it tells you how user-friendly I found Graphic to be.The parts were arranged over a 16"x12" sheet and exported as a pdf for my Epilog Zing laser cutter.

Before cutting all the parts, I tested the fit between joints by cutting a few parts. I wanted the joints to be tight enough so they held together without glue, so it took a lot of cutting and resizing until I was satisfied with the fit. Above are some partly assembled prototypes. I also have all the parts laid out for an older prototype with slightly different parts.

Step 4: Mounting the LEDs

Push the LED pixels through the MDF pentagonal faces (part B). They should fit snuggly, but to be safe it is best to hot glue them into place like Baweja Akshay does for his DOT2 LED table. Add some extra cables to extend the length of the 5V, GND, data, and clock signals of the LED strip. There should be a total of 11 LEDs in the Bucky Touch. The last pentagonal face is for the bottom of the instrument.

Cut eleven 30-40cm strips of wire cut wire and label them with tape corresponding to the LEDs (1 to 11). These wires are for the capacitive touch sensors, which are completed in Step 9. Pull the wire through the pentagonal faces and tape them down so they stay in place.

Step 5: Wall and Face Assembly

Put the pentagonal faces (Part B) together in the order shown in the schematic using the V-joints (Part D). The order is crucial so that the LEDs can be updated in the correct order on the dodecahedron. Make sure the joints are pushed all the way together. Squeeze the ball inward as a final measure. Pull the wires for the LEDs and capacitive touch sensors through the bottom of the dodecahedron. NOTE: In some of the images above, I am showing assembly with an older prototype. The only difference with this older model is that it does not have the wires for the capacitive touch sensors.

Next slide the trapezoidal walls (Part C) into the V-joints. These walls separate the light from different LEDs and support the plexiglass above the LEDs. If everything is completely pushed in, then the plexiglass should rest flush at the top of the walls.

Step 6: MIDI and Audio Output

The Bucky Glow has both MIDI and mono audio output. For a review of MIDI and Arduino, check out this link. I like MIDI because it is easy to set up with Arduino and provides audio from countless clean-sounding instruments with a click of a button. The downside is that it requires a MIDI playing device to decode the signals and convert them into an audio signal. Also, developing your own analog signals gives you more control and a better understanding of the signal that is actually produced and played into speakers.

Creating analog audio signals is challenging work that requires knowledge of oscillating circuits and more complex circuit design. I started designing oscillators for this project and made some progress, when I found a terrific article by Jon Thompson on creating complex audio signals using a single PWM pin on the Arduino. I think this was a perfect middle ground between MIDI signals and more complicated analog circuit design. The signals are still produced digitally, but I saved a lot of time in comparison to building my own oscillating circuits. I still want to try this some time, so any suggestions for good resources would be much appreciated.

Jon explains how you can generate a 2MHz 8-bit digital output with a single pin, which can be converted to an analog audio signal after smoothing through a low-pass filter. His article also explains some basics of Fourier analysis, which is required for understanding more complex waveforms. Instead of a pure tone, you can use this approach for generating more interesting audio signals. It is working well enough for me so far, but I think there is even more potential with this technique! See the video above for a preliminary test of switching between audio and MIDI output.

Test the MIDI and audio output on a breadboard before moving on to soldering components on the prototype board.

Step 7: Soldering the Board and Mounting Arduino

Collect the resistors, capacitors, header pins, and prototype board. Break down the prototype board to 50mm x 34mm. Add the 10MOhm resistors in the top left cover, followed by the header pins. These header pins will connect to the capacitive touch sensors. Continue adding the components by following the schematic of the Bucky Touch. You should have pins for the capacitive touch send signal, the eleven capacitive touch receive signals, the MIDI signal, the audio signal (out of arduino and into the mono stereo jack), 5V, and GND.

I designed a custom mount for holding the Arduino and prototype board in the bottom base of the Bucky Touch. 3D print this part using the STL file provided. Now slide the Arduino Nano and prototype board into the mount. Note that the Arduino Nano will need to have its pins facing upward. Slide two M3 nuts into the mount. These will be used to connect the mount to the base of the Bucky Touch.

Use wire-wrap wire to make connections between the Arduino and the prototype board as shown in the schematic. Also connect the capacitive touch wires to the header pins on the prototype board.

Step 8: Assembling the Base

Push the Midi jack, audio jack, and toggle switch through the base face with the appropriate holes. You can either screw in the jacks or glue them in the back. For the reset switch, you will need to carve out a small square so it rests flush with the front of the face. Solder wire-wrap wire onto the switches so they can be connected to the prototype board and Arduino.

Now it is time to connect the base walls to the base bottom. Slide one wall at a time into the base bottom and base connector joints (Part G). You have to slide the wall into the side with larger notches, and then press the wall down. The wall should snap into place. After connecting the walls with the holes for the Arduino, slide the Arduino/prototype board assembly into place and connect it using the M3x12 bolts. You may have to wiggle the M3 nuts until they are in the correct position.

After connecting all the base sides, solder the jack wires to the appropriate pins. At this point, it is a good idea to test the audio and MIDI signals using the code I have provided here. If it's not working, check your connections before moving onto the next step.

Step 9: Making the Plexiglass Conductive

I tried several ways to make the plexiglass a key for the instrument. In my geodesic dome project, I used IR sensors for detecting when the user's hand was close to the surface. However, they were not not reliable because of IR radiation of the environment, crosstalk between IR sensors, and inaccurate measurements. For the Bucky Touch I thought about three potential solutions: frequency encoded IR sensors, pushbuttons, and capacitive touch. The pushbuttons and frequency encoded IR sensors didn't work because of problems I talk about on my Hackaday page.

The challenge for capacitive touch sensor is that most conductive material is opaque, which wouldn't work for the Bucky Touch because light has to make it through the plexiglass. Then I discovered the solution: ITO coated plastic! You can buy a 200mm x 100mm sheet from Adafruit for 10bucks.

First I cut the ITO coated plastic into strips and taped them onto the plexiglass in an "X." Make sure the conductive sides of the plastic are facing each other. Check by measuring the resistance using a multimeter. Initially I bent the plastic and connected copper to solder wires for the capacitive touch. BIG MISTAKE: do not bend the ITO coated plastic! Bending the plastic breaks the connection. Instead I taped about an inch of wire-wrap wire to the plastic and that worked great. Remember that wire-wrap wire from Step 4 that was fed through the pentagonal LED face? It is now time to use them for the capacitive touch sensors. Expose the wire and tape it to the conductive plastic taped to the plexiglass. Repeat this for all 11 plexiglass faces.

Now is a good time to run some tests to make sure your plexiglass faces are functioning as capacitive touch sensors.

Step 10: Mounting the Plexiglass

Add the joints (Part E and F) to the bottom of the Bucky Touch that connect the bottom with all the electronics to the top with the LEDs. Then partly push the pup-joints (Part H) into the Bucky Touch walls so there is enough space to slide in the plexiglass. The plexiglass can only fit if you don't push the pup-joints in all the way, so be careful. Once you have placed all 11 plexiglass faces, push the pup joints in completely to lock in the plexiglass faces. It should be a snug fit.

Wrap and solder the other end of the capacitive touch wires to the appropriate pins on the prototype board, and test your capacitive touch sensors again. Finally, connect the top and bottom parts together using the joints (Part E and F). Make sure not to pull on any wires. Congratulations, the Bucky Touch is fully assembled!

Step 11: Older Prototypes

Before the Bucky Touch, I built a few other prototypes without touch sensors. The first prototype worked well, but had an unstable base that flared outward. Therefore, I made the base of the second version more sturdy and added breakout pins to make the device customizable. I called this device the Bucky Glow. The breakout pins enable you to connect the Bucky Glow to sensors (e.g. capacitive touch, infrared, ultrasonic), motors, MIDI jacks, and any other electronics you can think of. I also created an app in Processing for developing unique light patterns. The app can be downloaded here. Watch the video above for details about the Bucky Glow. For the Bucky Touch, I wanted to have the faces touch-sensitive so it was more like a musical instrument.

Step 12: Coding the Bucky Touch

With the Bucky Touch fully assembled, it is time for the software. The first thing is to test the levels of the capacitive touch sensors. Upload the CAPtestWithLEDfeedback program onto the Bucky Touch and display the serial plotter to check the response. Flip through the different plexiglass panels and record the cutoff level for each sensor.

The program buckyTouch1v2 will get the BuckyTouch playing music. It is the complete program that toggles between MIDI and audio output. For these programs you will need the following libraries:

CapacitiveSensor.h

Adafruit_WS2801.h

MIDI.h

avr/interrupt.h

Next steps will be programming the Bucky Touch to go beyond just a musical instrument and to work on the audio output of the device. Thanks for reading the instructable!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Bucky Touch: Light-up Dodecahedron Instrument

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Bucky Touch: Light-up Dodecahedron Instrument: About two years ago, I built a big 120 face LED geodesic dome that plays music with a MIDI output. However, it was a difficult build and the sensors weren't completely reliable. I decided to build the Bucky Touch, a smaller version of my geodesic ...

# data[].attributes.body
PORTALAMPARES
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32984959664.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.19a649a6DRcwYV&algo_pvid=bd3abad1-a674-45b1-89dd-a6ad7c45f544&algo_expid=bd3abad1-a674-45b1-89dd-a6ad7c45f544-1&btsid=2a13e325-452e-41f3-bb4d-9c32f57a7ade&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_53
____________________
INTERRUPTOR PASADOR REGULABLE
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32988867551.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6e76458alCSJXW&algo_pvid=7ede6cf4-a91b-4043-a87e-8ee8298dc9e1&algo_expid=7ede6cf4-a91b-4043-a87e-8ee8298dc9e1-7&btsid=8f880f3c-c7ed-4593-a9ba-66ed8a395e20&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_53
_____________________
CLAVILLES
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000195705045.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6bf447deao1rEP&algo_pvid=10558644-792a-423a-87ad-2f4513a34b3e&algo_expid=10558644-792a-423a-87ad-2f4513a34b3e-23&btsid=4928a243-3b09-4b16-a32b-6387711fe133&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_53

___________________
CABLE COTÓ
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32958998669.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.77061ee2smvu6v&algo_pvid=bd1edc45-5397-498a-a098-8df50fa64218&algo_expid=bd1edc45-5397-498a-a098-8df50fa64218-1&btsid=a7c75554-8a11-4a1f-82fe-249963f323d6&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_53

__________________
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32966087263.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.77061ee2smvu6v&algo_pvid=bd1edc45-5397-498a-a098-8df50fa64218&algo_expid=bd1edc45-5397-498a-a098-8df50fa64218-4&btsid=a7c75554-8a11-4a1f-82fe-249963f323d6&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_6,searchweb201603_53

# data[].attributes.body
http://petitecandela.blogspot.com/2016/07/letras-de-neon-diy.html

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Por Akío Aslan Buscando ideas para decorar el hogar me encontré con esta opción para iluminación ... (con imágenes) | Lámparas de concreto, Lámpara de hormigón, Mobiliario futurista

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
30-ago-2017 - Por Akío Aslan Buscando ideas para decorar el hogar me encontré con esta opción para iluminación bastante diferente y que sin duda...