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Inlays and Turnings - Trousers and Waistcoats - The Basic Apprentices' Forum

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Inlays and Turnings - Trousers and Waistcoats - The Basic Apprentices' Forum

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t is made of silk, wool or cotton and is often stiffened with metallic wire or coarse cord running through it. Gimp is used as trimming for dresses, curtains, furniture, embroidery, buttonholes, etc.

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Olly Newton
 Olly Newton
 Working Button Holes, Savile Row Tailors.
Working Button Holes, Savile Row Tailors.
Making a hand-made button-hole isn't an easy task, (the term is working a button-hole) and a badly executed button-hole will certainly spoil the finished look of the whole coat. Working half decent working button-holes only comes with experience, and lots of it.
bespoke tailors, bespoke tailors savile row | desmond merrion
Inlay and gimp: Olly Newton
Inlay and gimp: Olly Newton
Inlay:
Inlay is an extra inch or two of cloth left on the seam of a bespoke garment. Inlay is used as a safe way of ensuring the garment can be made to fit a larger size, if the client puts on weight or has got larger since they were measured. http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=399 Gimp:
Gimp thread is a type of thread used in bespoke tailoring on small detailed features such as buttonholes. Gimp thread is thicker and stronger thread than a normal Polyester thread used in hand stitching. Gimp thread is not only preferred for its strength but due to its thickness it means a neater and more precise buttonhole can be achieved. Gimp thread can be of Silk, Wool or Cotton. http://www.desmerrion.com/working-button-holes/

BRIONI BUTTONHOLE
 BRIONI BUTTONHOLE
 
Inlay & Gimp
Inlay & Gimp
Inlay is an extra piece of material inside the garment which has a purpose. This is for any alterations in the suit if the customers body shape changes of a period of time, this allows the alterations to be made. Gimp is a thick tread desined to define the shape of the button hole and also gives it strength and durability. 
Santino :)
Gimp thread is a nar
 Gimp thread is a narrow string like long object which is made from multiple strands spun together in order to create a strong thread. Gimp threads are predominantly used in tailoring to add rigidness to the buttonhole, defining its shape and adding support. Strong buttonholes will often have gimp thread however weaker buttonholes that don’t are: the trouser fly and pocket flap. Gimp threads are also able to be used in embroidery, and as trimmings in furniture, curtains and dresses. Another type of gimp made from viscose, has been used in crafts to create Scoubidous, popular when making key rings.   
Esmé

Inlay on a trouser w
 Inlay on a trouser waistband
Esmé 
 
Inlay
Inlay 
An inlay is fabric which is found in by the seams in a garment. The fabric is same fabric which the garment is made from, e.g. the suiting fabric. They are located in specific places such as the shoulders, side seams, trouser hems and waistbands. The seam allowance is added onto the garment before the inlay has been measured out.  
An inlay is able to make the garment last longer as once the garment needs to be altered to be taken in or out, the inlay is able to facilitate this by providing the extra fabric needed. This means garments in particular bespoke and children’s wear will have inlays to ensure the garment is able to be used as an investment purchase, allowing the wearer to wear the garment for many years, especially when garments need to fit growing children. 
Esmé 
 
more_vert
The art of the buttonhole - fashion house examples, description, and styles... Click on link below.
The art of the buttonhole - fashion house examples, description, and styles... Click on link below.

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/signals-of-a-handmade-suit-the-braving-of-the-buttonhole/


Sammy
Inlay in Bespoke Garments
Inlay in Bespoke Garments
Inlay is an extra allowance of fabric in the seam inside the garment to allow for future alteration. They are always allowed on bespoke garments to ensure its longevity, the garment can be altered should the individual's body shape change over time. Not having a

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Inlays and Turnings - Trousers and Waistcoats - The Basic Apprentices' Forum

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Olly Newton

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Working Button Holes

Making a hand-made button-hole isn't an easy task, (the term is working a button-hole) and a badly executed button-hole will certainly spoil the finished look of the whole coat. Working half decent working button-holes only comes with experience, and lots of it.

Good preparation is the key and the process starts by first marking the placement of the button-holes, ensuring that the button-hole is marked straight. I have seen many working button-holes that have been worked crooked, horrible! The button-hole length is then decided, which is dictated by the size of the actual button.

The button-hole is then cut through and the raw edges are bound with a general sewing cotton to prevent the cloth from fraying. A piece of gimp is then cut which gives the button-hole body and also controls the edges.

Gimp is a thick cord type of thread, sometimes the outer is made from pure silk over a non silk core. This gimp is then laid close to the cut edge of the working button-hole and whipped over with a specific button-hole stitch with pure silk button-hole twist.

It sounds rather complex, but like anything that's worth doing well it simply takes lots of practice to master.

The picture below shows a hand-made button-hole that I have worked. This coat button-hole has been worked on a clients coat, it's one of the button-holes for the coat front. This cloth is a lovely bright blue mohair mix, a 7oz Super 120's and kid mohair blend.

The picture below shows the sleeve cuff on a coat that I recently made for myself. The cloth is a lovely grey/purple Super 130's with Cashmere woven in Yorkshire, and is a 10oz cloth. This cloth is butter soft and I absolutely love it. There are two real button holes that I can actually open, and two sham, or fake holes That can't be opened. The buttons are a lovely mottled real horn in a light brown colour.

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Working Button Holes, Savile Row Tailors.

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Making a hand-made button-hole isn't an easy task, (the term is working a button-hole) and a badly executed button-hole will certainly spoil the finished look of the whole coat. Working half decent working button-holes only comes with experience, and lots of it.

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Inlay:

Inlay is an extra inch or two of cloth left on the seam of a bespoke garment. Inlay is used as a safe way of ensuring the garment can be made to fit a larger size, if the client puts on weight or has got larger since they were measured. http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=399 Gimp:

Gimp thread is a type of thread used in bespoke tailoring on small detailed features such as buttonholes. Gimp thread is thicker and stronger thread than a normal Polyester thread used in hand stitching. Gimp thread is not only preferred for its strength but due to its thickness it means a neater and more precise buttonhole can be achieved. Gimp thread can be of Silk, Wool or Cotton. http://www.desmerrion.com/working-button-holes/

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BRIONI BUTTONHOLE

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Inlay is an extra piece of material inside the garment which has a purpose. This is for any alterations in the suit if the customers body shape changes of a period of time, this allows the alterations to be made. Gimp is a thick tread desined to define the shape of the button hole and also gives it strength and durability.
Santino :)

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Gimp thread is a narrow string like long object which is made from multiple strands spun together in order to create a strong thread. Gimp threads are predominantly used in tailoring to add rigidness to the buttonhole, defining its shape and adding support. Strong buttonholes will often have gimp thread however weaker buttonholes that don’t are: the trouser fly and pocket flap. Gimp threads are also able to be used in embroidery, and as trimmings in furniture, curtains and dresses. Another type of gimp made from viscose, has been used in crafts to create Scoubidous, popular when making key rings.
Esmé

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Inlay on a trouser waistband
Esmé

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An inlay is fabric which is found in by the seams in a garment. The fabric is same fabric which the garment is made from, e.g. the suiting fabric. They are located in specific places such as the shoulders, side seams, trouser hems and waistbands. The seam allowance is added onto the garment before the inlay has been measured out.

An inlay is able to make the garment last longer as once the garment needs to be altered to be taken in or out, the inlay is able to facilitate this by providing the extra fabric needed. This means garments in particular bespoke and children’s wear will have inlays to ensure the garment is able to be used as an investment purchase, allowing the wearer to wear the garment for many years, especially when garments need to fit growing children.

Esmé

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The art of the buttonhole - fashion house examples, description, and styles... Click on link below.

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The art of the buttonhole - fashion house examples, description, and styles... Click on link below.

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https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/signals-of-a-handmade-suit-the-braving-of-the-buttonhole/

Sammy

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Inlay is an extra allowance of fabric in the seam inside the garment to allow for future alteration. They are always allowed on bespoke garments to ensure its longevity, the garment can be altered should the individual's body shape change over time. Not having an inlay can make it very difficult to adjust a garment post fitting.
xoxo Gossip Girl
(Inlay added to the forepart of a jacket)

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Gimp is a thread with a core of fine wire or linen, which is overspun with cotton or rayon fibres. On a gimp buttonhole the stitching is carried out over this thick thread that passes along the edge of the buttonhole. The gimp makes the buttonhole prominent on the garment and is used to reinforce the edges of hand-worked buttonholes. Gimp buttonholes are worked with very fine silk thread over the gimp and no knots are visible. Gimp buttonholes were popular on men’s formal silk lapels and usually have no keyhole. They are still popular with the very high-end ready-to wear makers such as Brioni and Zegna.
xoxo Gossip Girl

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It is made of silk, wool or cotton and is often stiffened with metallic wire or coarse cord running through it. Gimp is used as trimming for dresses, curtains, furniture, embroidery, buttonholes, etc.

Mirco

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Inlays are left at certain parts of garments in order to provide scope for adjustment and alteration. In juvenile clothes they are of greter importance, as children develope rapidly and  increases to the lenghts of the garments are often needed.
The main advantage of inlays for the cutter is that they allow him to make changes in fit and style decided upon the trying on stage. however, leaving wide inlays after the trying on is not good, as on certain seams it becomes difficult to press the seams open without leaving marks and the seam is not easy to be run clean specially on seams that have to follow the contour of the figure.

Mirco

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Davide

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gimp thread is very thick and strong so it holds its shape and provides a lot of support. for example when it is applied to a button hole it gives it a good shape and holds well.
inlay is for when alterations are needed for example letting out the trouser waist, there would be a extra piece of material in order for the alteration to take place

santino

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Unwinding Gimp "Cord" (used in Embroidery)

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Unwinding Gimp "Cord" (used in Embroidery)

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Source:www.needlenthread.com

This gimp cord was composed of thread, wrapped in gold wire, and was allowed to unravel by accident. Gimp can unravel easily when it is for the purpose of Goldwork embroidery, it is best to keep it wrapped when cutting it as a loss of any measure is very expensive.

http://www.needlenthread.com/Images/Miscellaneous/Goldwork/Metal_Threads/Goldwork_Gimp_07.jpg
Jessica

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Used in Embroidery (Davide)

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Inlay | An extra piece of fabric in a bespoke garment’s seam, to allow for future alteration
Megan

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Inlay is extra to the seam allowance on certain parts of a garment that would need to be altered.  This extra fabric is allowed for in the pattern making process and left between the initial cutting stage and the fitting stages, to allow for increased or diminished size of the customer, and then removed as necessary after the final fitting. This practise is especially used with an adolescent who may grow between fittings, also being aided by a "turn up" on a trouser or a cuff on a jacket sleeve.
The inlay would be removed in the finishing stage if it adds bulk that detracts from the look of the finished garment.
It would be left in certain sections of a finished garment to allow for the garment, especially a jacket, to be altered as a customer ages and gains weight. Jessica

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Wide inlays can't be used just anywhere. They cause problems when left in side seams of close fitting garments as you won't be able to create a clean finish. Also at the hindarm of the under half sleeve a wide inlay will mar the appearance of the sleeve.

Sassikia

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Gimp thread is not only used for button holes. The silk variety is also very popular for embroidery and trimmings, e.g. braid trimming.
Sassikia

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Gimp thread is a stiff, thick thread that is used in buttonholes. It is put between top fabric and buttonhole twist to give the buttonhole strength, structure and body.

Magdalena

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Inlay is extra fabric left in the garment on top of the actual seam allowance. Inlay is used for alterations. A person's weight and posture may change over the years and their clothes have to be altered to fit them properly again. Inlay is especially needed when a person puts on weight, as with the normal amount of seam allowance only minor alterations would be possible to make the garment wider.
Magdalena