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Other design considerations for convertible bags. 

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Other design considerations for convertible bags. 

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Introduction: The Beetle Bag

Ladies and gentlemen, I'm back with yet another leather project for you all! This quirky bag features a cool shell that's reminiscent of an armadillo or, as the name suggests, a beetle. In my case, I'm making this as a an interesting purse for my mom as a late Christmas present but with one simple additional step you can make a fun little backpack for your kewl kiddos! Above I have a picture of my mom wearing the bag in both backpack and purse form. Both styles suit her because she's young spirited and actually a child at heart. :)

As with all my Instructables, this was a learning process for me and I always appreciate any feedback, suggestions, and thoughts that you guys may have. Please leave them in the comments below! :)

2 People Made This Project!

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Step 1: Materials

For this project you will need:

Design (See Below)

Leather (2mm ~ 5oz)

Needles

Box Cutters

Leather Hole Punch (or nail)

Leather Awl (or large needle/nail)

Liner (slightly elastic)

Marker

Scissors

Thread

30cm Zipper (From bottom stopper to top stopper)

Contact Cement (or some other glue)

Notes: I only had chrome tanned leather when I made this bag so it came out very soft but I recommend that you use vegetable tanned leather to give the bag some sturdiness.

Usually purses have some kind of polyester/nylon lining but due to my inexperience with sewing I went ahead and used an elastic fabric to make the process a little more forgiving and smooth. However, if you know what you are doing I recommend you go ahead and use the correct fabric and your own design for the inside.

The hardest process for me in this project was threading everything together. This was because my thread was a bit too large for the size holes I was able to make. Whatever tools you use to make holes in your leather make sure you can easily double stitch and either increase the holes or decrease the thread size.

Step 2: Cutting Leather and Lining

This process is very straight forward. Print out the designs for the leather and lining and cut out each shape. Use a needle to scratch out the outline of the leather pieces and use your knife to cut them out. If you don't have a cutting mat, place a scrap piece of leather underneath so you can make a clean cut through your design without damaging the surface you're cutting on.

For the lining use a thin marker to mark your design and use scissors to cut the fabric. Remember, I created the lining designs with an elastic fabric in mind; if you choose to use a more conventional lining make sure you adjust the designs.

Step 3: Holes & Triangles

Once you have all your materials cut out we need to add our holes to the leather and triangles to the lining. Line up your templates on the leather pieces and mark a hole through each dot on the template with a needle. Next use an awl, nail, or larger needle to push through the leather to fully form a hole. Make a few holes and test how easy it is to sew through them. Remember we are going to be double stitching, so make sure you can push a needle and thread through each hole at least twice. If you are having a difficult time, you need to make your holes bigger or decrease thread size. Trust me, this will save you hours a work later on.

For the lining we are going to cut triangles to create flaps around the extra material to accommodate the curve of this design. I already sectioned the tips into thirds so you can cut along those lines. For the sides I didn't specify where to cut because I'm not a sewing expert and honestly didn't know how many triangles I needed. You can refer to the pictures above to see what I did but feel free to change up the amount of triangles and give advice in the comments below. All I know is the more triangles you make the smoother the curve should come out but the harder it will be to sew (due to the amount of flaps flapping around :P )

We also need to cut a few triangles on the side of the zipper fabric that will be attached to the back of the bag. Leave at least .25 cm between the zipper and the triangles so that we are always sewing on uncut parts of the zipper fabric.

Step 4: Stabilizing the Shells

Before we start attaching all our pieces together we are going to give some structural integrity to our shell. I broke the shell into halves: The bottom half (composed of bands 1-3) will be immobile with each piece attached to the adjacent and The top half (composed of bands 4-6) will be mobile meaning the bands will not be attached to one another. To give the shells some stability we are going to loosely thread them together. Since the bottom half is immobile the holes on the bands line up so you can thread every fifth hole together. The top half is a little more tricky. Since the holes don't line up I tried to simply clamp the ends together (as seen above) but I highly recommend you go ahead and loosely thread the bands together and just try your best to match up holes and keep the overall shape symmetrical.

Step 5: Sewing the Shells

Ok, now that we've strengthened the shape of our shells we are going to line up our lining's inner edge with the edges of the shells. Once you're satisfied we are going to clamp it down and begin sewing. Remember, our lining is elastic so it doesn't matter if its a little suspended over the inside of the shell; we're just going to push that down as we sew.

I recommend you start sewing the bottom shell first as it should be a little more stable and is a good way to get started before we move on to the tricker upper shell. At this point we can only sew the two inner edges of the of the shell. As you sew firmly press the lining down and feel free to stretch it to make sure the lining is even spread. We don't want it to be too loose on one side and too taunt on the other side. Because of how I designed this bag there will be a gap in the sewing of the lining as we sew the hump on bands 2 and 3. If you don't like this look feel free to add some extra holes in the leather and fill in this gap. Once you reach the other side of the shell you need to backstitch at least twice and then tie off the thread underneath the lining where it will be hidden. Finish the job with a bit of contact cement and move onto the next band.

As I said, the upper shell is a little tricker to sew since its larger and mobile and therefore more flexible. Place the lining on top of the shell as you did with the lower shell. Just as before, work your way across gently but firmly moving the lining to make sure it fits nicely as you sew. Since we are not sewing the bands directly to each other we will not have the same gaps in the lining as we did with the lower shell.

Notes: Before or after this step you can sew the hump side of bands 4 and 5.

Step 6: Attaching the Lower Shell to the Back

Line up the lower shell with the bottom half of the back. It's helpful to punch the "pivot" holes on the ends of the bands and the flaps of the back so that you can thread a strip of leather through the holes of the side you are starting on. Use clamps to hold any loose fabric in place. For this part of the bag I used alternating cross stitches (one cross on the outside followed by one in the inside) until I reached the hump of the first band at which point I switched to double stitching. There should be eight stitches on the hump at which point you can cut the thread or using the same thread go back and double stitch seven stitches on the back of bag. After this the holes will line up between the first band and the bag and you can go back to cross stitching.

Step 7: Attaching the Two Shells

Similar to before we are going to punch holes and use clamps to hold everything in place. For this step we are going to fold the fabric on the lower shell below itself and put the fabric on the upper shell below that. Use double stitches and slowly work your way around the bands, making sure that you can fully open the bands but that they don't overstretch and leave a gap between the two halves.

Step 8: Strap Attachment

Using two separate threads begin stitching the attachment as seen above. Next, stitch the attachment to the back of the bag. Thankfully, this is a pretty easy and straightforward step and you can refer to the pictures above for more details.

Note: At this point you need to decide if you want to make a backpack or a purse. For the purse move onto the next step and for the backpack we need to measure out the length of straps we want and attach them to the bottom "corners" of the bag before we close up the lining.

Step 9: Zipper

I want to preface this step by noting that I was forced to use a zipper for this bag due to the flexibility of the leather. If you are using something stiffer you can get away with using a tab with a button to close the bag.

Start by sewing the hump side of the sixth band. Before we add the zipper we need to make sure that the the sixth band will still be able to fully open and close. I found that if I place the bottom stop of the zipper right below the top half of the back I was able to fully open and close the sixth band. Clip the zipper and fabric to the back and begin stitching. As we sew the liner we need to make sure that our folds are tight and small so that they don't get caught in the zipper.

Repeat this process with the sixth band. Again, make sure that everything is even and can fully open and close.

Step 10: The Strap and Final Touch

Measure the desired length of the strap and feel free to increase the thickness by lengthening the slots in the attachment on the back of the bag. Stitch the ends of the strap together or, if you want to make a backpack for a child, simply stitch the ends of the strap to the bottom "corners" of the bag.

After the straps are finished we need to add a strip of leather through the pivot holes. I decided to add four knots in the strip (two on the outside of the bag and two on the inside) to make sure that all the bands were pressed together. The reason I let the strip go across the entire bag was to make a little holder for a phone.

And voila, you have finally finished the bag!

Some final remarks: The zipper I used wasn't that great and made zipping a little difficult. Try to find a good quality zipper before you make this or even better yet use stiffer material so that the zipper isn't needed. When I sewed the liner into the top half I made the mistake of sewing the bands too close together which meant I wasn't able to fully open the bag as easily as I would have liked. If you look closely at the images of the bag at the top you can see the distortion this caused in the top half. To make sure you guys don't end up making the same mistake I increased the size of the top liner design in the PDFs above, but you still need to make sure that the lining isn't too taunt. I hope that my mistakes will help you guys make an even better bag!

If you have any questions please feel free to ask me! Like I said before I'm no expert in leather making or sewing so I appreciate any constructive criticism. :)

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The Beetle Bag: Ladies and gentlemen, I'm back with yet another leather project for you all! This quirky bag features a cool shell that's reminiscent of an armadillo or, as the name suggests, a beetle. In my case, I'm making this as a an interesting purse for my...

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A common complaint among backpack enthusiasts is that many backpacks claim to be panel-loading, but are not. Observe:

Pangolin offers the accessibility and versatility of a true panel-loader with an added bonus, high durability.

Solving Durability Issues

While panel-loaders are popular amongst frequent travelers who are constantly moving and constantly test their backpack's durability. The materials used have not advanced much from the nylon, polyester and (sometimes) canvas used in children's school backpacks.

As material engineering has developed, we now have hydrophobic and increasingly durable grades of these materials, such that "heavy-duty" backpacks usually are made of ultra-strong materials. Still, these "heavy-duty" options often come at the cost of being worse for the environment.

But there is a better option.

Pangolin's original design for their biomimetic backpacks were 50% made of durable and flexible recycled rubber inner tube tires from truck tires woven together with fine fabric. Making them equally flexible to their nylon and polyester counterparts, with added durability from the strong rubber.

Heavy Materials Which Murder Shoulders

Another added benefit of their durable recycled rubber material is that it doesn't compromise the backpack's weight. As the whole bag is supported by two padded shoulder straps, the material choice's weight plays a big role in the user's experience.

The renewable material source is an especially light fabric that helps reduce the product's weight as well, which is very important for an everyday backpack.

This backpack literally contributes to saving the earth and your shoulders.

Solving Ethical and Environmental Concerns

Because Pangolin backpacks are largely made of recycled rubber, they serve as an ethically better dupe for long-lasting leather rucksacks, which have historically been some of the most durable daypacks.

This is especially appealing for our generation where veganism, animal rights and environmental consciousness have become more popular than ever, while the desire for "genuine leather" has dwindled. Here is an article from a popular news source that discusses whether it's time to give up leather.

In fact, the demand for eco-friendly wearable products has become mainstream over the last decade. There are many other companies that are producing " eco-friendly backpacks." Meanwhile, the rise of "vegan leather" paints a nicer light on how people perceived fake vs. genuine leather.

Plus it's a better name than "pleather."

Solving Style Issues (Is It Ugly?)

Sustainable, high-tech backpacks are fascinating, but let's be honest, some are very ugly. And most do not contend with the high fashion backpacks today's influencers flaunt.

^ What most travel backpacks look like compared to high-end backpacks

While Gucci bags are all the rage, Pangolin backpacks could actually be a contender in the design department because they have a strong, distinct aesthetic and brand present throughout their products, which is unique for renewable backpack companies.

Their aesthetic is very sleek and definitely stands out, much like Gucci and other high-end backpacks. Making it an attractive alternative for people who choose backpacks for aesthetic reasons.

The sustainable materials and edgy form provide a dark and unconventional appearance which has proven to be very unique compared to alternative backpacks on the market.

The Future of Innovative Backpacks

While Pangolin's daypack solves many of today's backpack issues, there are still stones left unturned.

As amazing as its innovations are, they come at a cost - a very high cost. Unsurprisingly, Pangolin's backpack line costs upwards of $100.

Fortunately, this company's backpack line has inspired many followers such as Golem's Alpha helmet.

Turning to the future of biomimetic product design, the probing questions become:

Will other eco-friendly or biomimetic initiatives try to appeal to a larger audience? Is that feasible?

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Making Everyday Items Better with Biomimetics: The Pangolin Backpack

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A common complaint among backpack enthusiasts is that many backpacks claim to be panel-loading, but are not. Observe: Pangolin offers the accessibility and versatility of a true panel-loader with an added bonus, high durability. While panel-loaders are popular amongst frequent travelers who are constantly moving and constantly test their backpack's durability.

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Ortlieb lists:

+ Platform width: 100 mm

+ holder for optional rear light

+ tube diameter: 10 mm

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Kit Guide - Buying panniers
Panniers are bags that clip or strap onto the front or rear rack of your bike. For a commuter or tourer, a good set of panniers are a godsend. Unfortunately there are lots of really bad panniers out there, so choose wisely. Here's what to look for:
Secure quick release clips - you want a system for fitting to the rack which is going to stay put when you want it to, but detach in an instant when you leave your bike. There's nothing worse than panniers that fly off in the street and under the car behind.

Conversely, it can be a major faff unbuckling straps and other fasteners when you want to unclip your panniers to nip into the shops or into work. So look for panniers with an attachment system with hooks that completely enclose the rail of the rack, like these Rixen and Kaul hooks pictured right - strong and secure, yet easy to undo in a hurry.

Weatherproofing - there's no use getting a bag which leaks like a sieve - Taking a change of clothes in your pannier is no use if, when you arrive at work after a rainy commute, they look like the've just been on the 'non-fast colours' cycle.

Good bags are either waterproof from the get-go (with laminated 'roll-top' panniers, like this Ortlieb pannier pictured right being the king) or have built in rain covers that slip over the pannier when the rains come. Traditional Carradice bags are made from waxed cotton duck which is practically waterproof, repairable and breathable. While laminated panniers are virtually immersion proof, if you put something wet inside them, it'll stay wet, whereas a cotton duck pannier or bag will breathe.

Heel clearance - Don't buy panniers on mail order unless you're absolutely sure they'll fit. If you've got a bike with short chainstays and/or you've got big feet, there may not be enough heel clearance for large panniers. A racktop bag or saddlebag system may be a better bet if this is the case. Many panniers allow you to adjust the bag fore and aft on the rails to maximise heel clearance with this.

Pannier Size - Panniers generally come in 'front' or 'rear' sizes. Front panniers, designed to go on lowrider racks at the front of your bike generally have around 20 litres of capactiy, whereas rear panniers tend to average around 40 litres per pair. However, there's nothing stopping you putting front panniers on the rear. Indeed many small panniers are marketed as ''universal' meaning that they can go either front or rear. When choosing a set of panniers, remember the universal law that states whatever size bag you strap to your bike, you'll end up filling it to capacity with junk you don't need, so think carefully of what you'll be carrying most of the time and choose accordingly.

Racks - we're assuming you've already got a rear rack on your bike. But if not, Tubus, SL, Tortec, Blackburn and Nitto are top brands. When buying panniers, make sure that your hooks fit the rails of your rack - some tubular steel racks have tubing which isn't compatible with all types of hook. Also look for a rack with a 'dog leg' support which will help keep the panniers from interfering with your back wheel. The best racks have low, set back mounting points, allowing you to position your load lower and further back, maximising stability and heel clearance (like this Tubus Logo rear rack pictured right).

Convertible bags - some panniers convert into rucksacks using a zip off pannier back which conceals rucksack straps. Other panniers are bike briefcases, which look smart off the bike and have shock absorbing, suspended or padded sleeves to carry laptops in relative safety

Other types of bag - some bikes are just not pannier friendly. However, there are many types of bag to choose from. Traditionalists prefer saddlebags, which mount, as the name suggests behind the saddle and offer anything up to 24 litres of capacity. Some have quick release systems, making removal and fitting a doddle. Rack top bags are also a great idea for folding bikes and other bikes with poor heel clearance. They strap to the top of your rack and can carry a surprising amount.

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Kit Guide - Buying panniers Panniers are bags that clip or strap onto the front or rear rack of your bike. For a commuter or tourer, a good set of panniers are a godsend. Unfortunately there are lots of really bad panniers out there, so choose wisely.

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Choosing a pannier rack for your bicycle is as about as fun (for most people) as being hit on the head with a wet fish. The parting of hard earned cash for what is basically a wire contraption is depressing. HOWEVER, having a pannier rack on your bicycle WILL change your life. The reasons it will change your life include:

😀 No longer weighed down by a heavy backpack whilst riding
😀 No sweaty back in summer from wearing a backpack
😀 The feeling of lightness when riding
😀 Increased capacity of luggage you lug around
😀 You will be able to adorn your lovely bike with a cool pannier bag for example ours at Goodordering
😀 No swinging or lob-sided messenger bag to contend with whilst riding and feeling the wind in your hair

Key things to look out for when buying a rack for your bike are essentially

- the material it is made from (strength and durability)
- whether it fits aesthetically with your bike
- whether it fits mechanically onto your bike
- price related to your budget

This article will run through these things and then hopefully by the time you finish reading it you can make an informed decision making this unglamorous but life-changing purchase of a bicycle luggage rack somewhat enjoyable.

MATERIALS

There are different options for materials that pannier racks are normally made from these include:
Aluminum racks : lighter, less durable, and can't be fixed if they break.
Cromoly racks: (a steel that contains carbon) lightweight, durable, and strong.
Steel racks: heavy but more durable, can be fixed
Titanium: lightweight, doesn't corrode but more expensive

Frequently asked questions

What price range am i looking at to buy a pannier rack?

You can get a decent rack for between £20 and £100. You generally get what you pay for in terms of the strength for carrying pannier bags and other loads but if you are on a budget its good to know that you can find a bicycle pannier bag to suit a range of budgets.

How much should a pannier rack weigh?

You should expect a pannier rack to weight around 1kg in itself, although some of the really light ones made from Titanium can weigh as little as 300grams.

Do i need to get it professionally fitted?

No, you can do it yourself if you watch a few you tube videos, the important thing is that you have the right bicycle with the eyelet fixings in order to attach it, if you are not sure ask at your local bike shop.

What if i have a vintage style bicycle, what rack would work with it?

You can find vintage original pannier racks on places like ebay, (like this one for example) however the other option to go with a vintage bicycle is minimalist style rack that fits in with the colours and style of your bicycle.

SOME SHOPPING OPTIONS

Simple: Tortec Silver or Black: £25 - WIGGLE

Simple: Tokyobike 'Wald' rear rack: £35 - Tokyobike UK

Seat Mounted: Can take up to 10kg weight: £24 <LINK>

Top of the range: Titanium rack ultra lightweight £250 - WIGGLE

Narrow: Tortec narrow style : £22 Mango Bikes
References & Further reading
Road.cc Pannier Rack Buyers Guide Cycling Weekly - Best panniers and pannier racks
E-Bicycles.com Front and Rear bicycle racks

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A dummies guide to choosing a bicycle pannier rack

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Choosing a pannier rack for your bicycle is as about as fun (for most people) as being hit on the head with a wet fish. The parting of hard earned cash for what is basically a wire contraption is depressing. HOWEVER, having a pannier rack on your bicycle WILL change your life.

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Waterproof cover

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Attaching mechanism

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Pocket with an attached waterproof cover to protect the bag

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Pocket with an attached waterproof cover to protect the bag

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The product must be safe.

The product must be detachable & wearable as a rucksack / bag.

The product must be lightweight

The product must have the capacity to store a laptop

The product must not get mucky.

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Can we make a seat that fits onto a pedal bike and allows suitable storage?

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Motor bikes have large seat storages

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The product must have some sense of padding, if laptops + phones were prioritised items.

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The product must be waterproof

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How to use the space without hindering functionality and comfortability

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utilise the gap in the frame

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From images you can see that in Vietnam a lot of their storage solutions are in contact with the riders body. That point of contact offers security. They may be travelling for long distances and therefore need to be aware of their belongings.

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How do we make sure the product is affordable, but suitable for the target audience.

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We need to make informed choices on what are the best materials for the prices that the consumer is willing to pay.  

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The product needs to be multi-functionable.

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incorporate the security feeling of having a bag on your back. Having the awareness of knowing where it is.

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Provide a method of alert for when the bag falls off.

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Price
Use of materials - these are commuters, they are unlikely to be knowledgeable about the best materials.
We do not want to waste money on materials that the market won't appreciate the significance of. because they are commuters not competitive athletes.

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Laptop,
paperwork,
drink,
lunch,
clothing,

How do we locate all of this equipment on the bike?

how do we make sure the fitting is secure?

How do we make sure the bag is easily detachable & attachable?

How do we make sure the location of the bag doesn't hamper COG and handling?

How do we make sure that the bike doesn't gain width when the storage solution is attached?

How do we make sure the product is affordable for the target audience?

How do we make sure the product is located best to reduce muck and spray from the surface?

What can we put in place to make sure that the bag is easily detachable but also secure from theft?

How can we create a quality product without high expenditure?

How can the product be lightweight, yet strong & secure?

How will the product stop items such as laptops from bashing into other items within the bag / solution?

How will the storage solution be implemented without being detrimental to safety?

How do we make sure the product doesn't discomfort the rider?

What are the unique selling points?

How might we decide where the storage solution goes?

How could we come up with an appropriate storage system

How might we choose where to apply certain materials?

How might we achieve the storage security element for the rider?

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-e.g. Functionality
the product needs to be lightweight to avoid unbalanced weight on bike.

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- Looking into how Marsupial species carry within their pouches. 

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Location-in sight, manipulate COG and effect on handling?

Vibration awareness / alert wristband.

Foldaway basket / detachable / multi purpose rucksack.

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The design and production of materials, structures, and systems that are modelled on biological entities and processes.

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does the product need to be eyeballed

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collapsible basket

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crate on the front

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location storage

# data[].attributes.body
balance issues/stability

# data[].attributes.body
noise

# data[].attributes.body
flashing light

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Ear problems cause more problems than just a loss of hearing. They can also affect your ability to walk, stand, and keep your balance. Here's some information on balance disorders, and how your ears play a part.

Your ears don't just help you hear. In fact, they work together with other systems in your body to help you understand your place in space. If you have a steady sense of balance, you might not have a problem understanding where you are, how to stay upright, and how to keep yourself from falling. However, your eyes and brain aren't the only organs involved in this process.

Many of those that have trouble with their balance find that the problem lies in their ears. Ear balance disorders can make you feel unsteady, wobbly, or constantly moving. These sensations of vertigo can seriously impact your ability to walk, stand upright, and even sit up. Before we touch on balance disorders and how they're treated, it's important to understand the ears' role in balance.

How Do We Balance Ourselves?

Our balance system relies on the labyrinth, a maze of bone and tissue located in the inner ear. It holds the semicircular canals, the otolithic organs, and the cochlea. While the cochlea is used for hearing, the canals are used for balance. These look like three circular loops, and each is responsible for sensing a different type of movement. One senses up/down, another senses side-to-side, and the last senses tilt. When the fluid within these tubes move, the hair cells sense the movement and transmit it to our brain. This allows us to understand how we are moving through space. Our balance system is so sensitive that it even tells us when we are moving within a vehicle or elevator.

Problems with the inner ear can lead to balance problems, dizziness, vertigo, and even nausea. We might feel that we are moving when we're not, struggle to stay upright or get motion sickness from standing still. These are all serious issues that can impact our ability to move around and sit up. People with severe vertigo might even feel sick while laying down.

Quite a few things can lead to balance problems, but it's a lesser-known fact that hearing loss can cause balance disorders. Our ears are involved in more than just hearing, and the presence of the semicircular canals in our ears can lead to balance problems in people suffering from hearing loss.

Does Hearing Loss Cause Balance Issues?

Though some of these conditions are tied together, hearing loss and balance problems do not always occur together. Not all people who suffer from balance disorders suffer from hearing loss, and not all people with hearing loss experience a noticeable loss of balance. However, they do occur in tandem from time to time.

Both Labyrinthitis and Meniere's disease can result in hearing loss and balance problems.

Labyrinthitis is an infection of the inner ear. It occurs when the labyrinth, a structure within your inner ear, becomes swollen and inflamed. This can lead to hearing loss, tinnitus, feelings of vertigo, and nausea. This condition is also known as vestibular neuronitis, but the difference is that vestibular neuronitis does not involve hearing loss. Most people do not experience a loss of hearing when suffering from an inner ear infection, but it is possible. That is when the condition becomes Labyrinthitis. Most cases of these conditions can be treated and cured, but severe infections can lead to lasting damage.

Meniere's disease, formerly known as Endolymphatic Hydrops, is a heightened pressure within the labyrinth. This can cause hearing loss, vertigo, and tinnitus. Usually, Meniere's only affects one side, though bilateral cases have been reported. There is no cure for Meniere's disease, though medication can be used to manage it. Those suffering from Meniere's usually feel the pressure building before an episode of the condition. After a few years, the condition can go away naturally.

What Are Balance Disorders?

Balance disorders are any condition that leads to a loss of balance or sense of vertigo/dizziness. These might be caused by simple things such as ear infections or low blood pressure, or a more serious issue like tumors or improper blood circulation. Regardless of what causes a balance disorder, it can lead to serious problems. A person with balance problems might feel like they're tipping over, spinning, or floating, even when they're standing still. Some people with balance disorders report experiencing vertigo when they turn their head, especially when getting out of bed or rolling over. They might stumble from time to time, hold walls to center themselves, or find themselves dragged to the ground. The severity of balance disorders can vary from person to person, and the cause of your balance problems can determine how bad they will be.

Common causes of balance disorders are:

* Positional vertigo, or benign paroxysmal positional vertigo (BPPV). A harmless condition caused by age or a head injury. It causes vertigo when loose otoconia, or bio-crystals, tumble around in your semicircular canals.

* Labyrinthitis. Explained above.

* Vestibular neuronitis. Labyrinthitis without hearing loss.

* Mal de Debarquement syndrome (MdDS). A leftover sensation from prolonged movement. Many people experience this after extended periods in the ocean or on a boat. You might feel like you're still at sea, bobbing and swaying. Some people even experience this after long runs on a treadmill.

* Meniere's disease. Explained above.

* Perilymph fistula. This occurs when fluid from the inner ear leaks into the middle ear. This can occur at birth, after head injuries or surgery, during infections, or after scuba diving.

Balance Disorder Treatment

The treatment of balance disorders largely depends on the cause of your condition. Infections can be treated with antibiotics, while illnesses like Meniere's disease require other medications. Many people with permanent or untreatable balance problems seek out ear balance disorder exercises. These exercises are known as Vestibular Rehabilitation Therapy, or VRT.

These exercises help desensitize their balance system to certain movements, making it easier for the person to move around without triggering their vertigo. While it might not completely solve the problem, it can prevent falls and make vertigo easier to live with. Many people who receive VRT have fewer problems bending over, turning their head, and walking over patterned floors.

These exercises must be performed properly to have any positive effect. A VRT specialist can help you learn more and guide you through the exercises. It's important to do these exercises in the presence of a counselor. They will keep you from falling if you become overwhelmed and challenge you when the exercises become too easy.

If this article helped you gain a better understanding of your hearing and sense of balance, you might be interested in learning more about your ears. Signia regularly publishes articles relating to hearing loss, audiology, and how to better care for your ears.

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Ear problems cause more problems than just a loss of hearing. They can also affect your ability to walk, stand, and keep your balance. Here's some information on balance disorders, and how your ears play a part. Your ears don't just help you hear.

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https://www.signia-hearing.com/blog/how-your-hearing-affects-your-balance/#:~:text=Quite%20a%20few%20things%20can,people%20suffering%20from%20hearing%20loss.