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How to Build a Custom PC for Gaming or Coding

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How to Build a Custom PC for Gaming or Coding

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Editor's note: An earlier version of this article included a video guide detailing similar steps on how to build a PC. Unfortunately, that video included a number of errors in the build process, and as a result we have removed it from this article. We have also updated this article to improve the order of the steps in the process.
Building your own Windows desktop has many advantages over buying one pre-built. You can get parts suited exactly to your needs, which can also potentially lead to cost savings. You can get a customized look that's unique to your PC. You don't have to deal with things like bloatware or annoying pre-installs. It's also a learning experience: by building your own computer, you'll have a better grasp on how it all works.

You don't need to spend thousands of dollars to build a great desktop, though the more you do spend up front, the longer your PC will still be current. The beauty of building your own Windows desktop is you can price and build exactly for your needs. For example, if you're a video editor, a lot of your build cost should be going toward extra RAM (more temporary storage and faster edits) and hard drive space to store your projects (an extra SSD, for example).

In our example build, we wanted a PC that would excel at playing high-end games now and for the next few years. For that need, we had to prioritize a great GPU (graphics card) so we could play popular titles at their highest graphical settings. And eventually, to upgrade to an RTX 2080, to support future titles in HD or 4K that use ray tracing. The budget we set for this was $2,000, all-in, including a license for Windows 10 Home. That's not cheap, but it's enough to ensure that this PC will still be capable a few years down the road.

To make this process easier, I used PCPartPicker to organize the list of parts I'd use, ensure there were no compatibility issues between them, and make sure I'm within my budget. It's a great way to make sure that everything you're buying works together before you've got it all laid out on your workbench.

Precautions

Before we get started, there are a couple of things you should be wary of. First off, you are handling parts that draw several hundred watts of the power, so don't ever touch the parts with the system powered on.

It's smart to wear an anti-static bracelet (or ground yourself by touching a metal object / items bound to the floor) so that you don't give your PC parts ESD (electrostatic discharge) and damage them in the process.

Don't give your pricey parts a static charge

For your work surface, use a plastic or wooden table for the build process, or any other surface with a working mat that has anti-static properties. Additionally, have plenty of patience and two different sizes of Phillips screwdriver.

If you have to make a quick change - like adjust a graphics card or plug in an extra cable - make sure to first unplug the power cable from the wall outlet and power cycle the desktop by pressing the power button to get any remaining electricity out of the system.

In regards to the parts you're using, always make sure the socket of the processor and motherboard combo you bought match (in my case, an LGA 1151 processor on an LGA 1151 motherboard). The socket type goes for the CPU cooler you're using, too. (This is where PCPartsPicker comes in handy - it will tell you if you try to buy a processor that doesn't fit on your selected motherboard and vice versa.)

The buying process

So what parts do you need for your build? Well, there are the essentials: RAM, a case, graphics, processor, cooler, thermal paste, operating system, motherboard, and finally, the power supply. Which manufacturer you use for each part is entirely up to you. However, there are some things you should keep in mind.

First, determine what your computer will be for. If it's a gaming desktop, pay close attention to your RAM, CPU, and GPU trio - they'll need to be the highest-end parts in the system. If you're a video editor, drop costs on the graphics and spend more on storage and RAM, for example.

If you're planning to not spend too much on parts now (or don't know which to prioritize), but want to make easy upgrades in the future, pick a power supply with enough wattage to support higher-end parts (they require more power). An easy way of doing this: use PCPartPicker to estimate the power needed on your behalf, or you can look up the power requirements of each individual part.

In our build, the parts we've selected are currently using an estimated 374 watts, but by having an 850 watt PSU, I can add two graphics cards or a single, higher-end card without worrying about if I have enough power. Of course, if you're on a tighter budget and decide you won't be using any high-end parts, pick a power supply that's just enough for the parts you have right now.

Once you've decided the "what for," it's time to determine what sort of desktop it will be. That means first deciding on a case. Obviously, the case determines the footprint of your completed build, but it also plays a big part in which parts you'll be able to use inside of it.

There are three popular case types: mini-ITX (the smallest, most restrictions), mATX (compact, but easy to work with), and full ATX (typical heavy desktop tower). Each of those has their pros and cons, but most people will probably be fine with an mATX size case. The case size you choose will dictate your motherboard options: the Corsair 280X case I used for this build is an mATX case, which means I have to buy an mATX motherboard to fit inside of it.

My ATX power supply is produced by Corsair as well, so it's designed to fit in this case, but you should always check your case specification and learn what motherboard and power supply size it can house best.

The rest of the components you'll need fall into line after the motherboard: processor, cooling, RAM, GPU, and thermal paste. You'll want to make sure that your motherboard has things like built-in Wi-Fi, Ethernet, sound, and Bluetooth, so you don't have to worry about adding those components separately. Fortunately, it's not hard to find a motherboard that has all of those things onboard already.

The build process

The first part of the build should be orderly laying out everything you've purchased: the processor, RAM, graphics, all the screws, cable ties, fan screens... everything. This way you won't stop building midway and go looking for that elusive motherboard screw.

From there, where you start is up to you, but I prefer to start by mounting the power supply. By installing the PSU first, I can single out all the required wires, and make space for them. Generally, it's a safe step that is difficult to mess up. Also, this is personal preference, but in all of my prior builds, I decided to install every major part in the desktop before I start wiring them to each other and to the power supply.

Next, mount that motherboard. Depending on your socket type (AMD or Intel), you may need to install a back brace for the motherboard, so do that first. Afterward, screwing down a handful of small screws, aligned with motherboard and the case, should keep this integral part of your DIY PC build in place.

The rest of the build is more about plug-and-play. For starters, installing RAM is a piece of cake: just align your gold connectors with the center of the slot, slowly pushing down till you hear a click. It is important to make sure you're putting the RAM in the correct slots, however. If you have dual-channel RAM, which you most likely do, it needs to be installed in the dual-channels slots on the motherboard.

Ensuring you're using the right socket is crucial

Installing your GPU is also a straightforward process, except you have to open the expansion bracket at the back of your case (it's usually held down by screws). From there, align your card's gold connector with the motherboard's slot and the back of the case, pressing down firmly until you hear a click.

On the flipside, installing your processor is probably the most intense part of the build. CPUs are very delicate (and expensive), so you should only really place it down in the processor socket once. Open the socket using the latch, then align the arrow that appears on your chip with the corresponding arrow on the motherboard. Gently pull the latch down, ensuring the processorhasn't moved out of place, at all.

Most of the time, you don't need liquid cooling

At this point, you should install the radiator and fans that will cool off your desktop PC. I decided to mount the CPU cooler on top of the case, with two fans providing additional cooling on the front of the case. Again, this is all according to your own budget and specifications. However, it's best in a micro ATX tower like this one to have two fans in your radiator and another two to cool the rest of the case.

Liquid cooling is entirely possible in a DIY build, but it's more expensive than installing fans and only necessary for overclocking or intensive processing.

With your fans in place, you can finally proceed to applying thermal paste to the top of your processor. You should apply a paper-thin layer of paste spread evenly on top of the CPU. From there, screw in the remaining screws to secure your cooler on top of the processor.

So now that all your PC parts are installed and fit together inside the case, it's time to wire everything. This is a tedious and tricky process that involves knowing exactly which cables to use (your motherboard manual does a good job of explaining this).

In this build, I'm using numerous connectors for the front panel's ports, audio inputs, and power button. This also includes power cables to the graphics card, CPU, motherboard, fan controller, individual fans, pump, and Wi-Fi antennae.

Hint: your motherboard manual maps out where cables go

The major cables (PCI-E, 24-pin, CPU, etc.) are usually labeled and not alike at the ends visually, so there shouldn't be too much cause for confusion there. Where you might run into some hurdles is connecting the tiny three to four pin cables that correspond with your case's ports and fans. If you can't tell which pins these cables should go to, your motherboard's manual usually has a map of every port / connection on the board. From there, it should be simple.

So now you've nearly reached the end of your PC build. At this point, you want to make sure all your wires are installed, connections to the motherboard are secure, power supply switch is turned on and plugged into a wall outlet. Next, connect your newly built desktop to a monitor, mouse, and keyboard setup.

Installing Windows 10 is pretty straightforward

Finally, hit the power button. You should see a screen that bears the brand name of your motherboard. This indicates a successful Power-On Self Test (or POST, for short).

Now, plug in a USB stick with Windows 10 installation files (which you can learn about here), restart the PC, and select your boot device as the USB drive you just inserted. Follow the on-screen prompt, enter your Windows license key, and finally reach the desktop.

However, you're still not done yet! Download and install the relevant motherboard, GPU, cooling, lighting, and networking drivers or apps that will ensure everything is running as intended. This is non-negotiable and required if you actually want your new desktop PC to run at its peak.

Congrats, you've just built and configured a Windows desktop.

Future upgrades

Part of the appeal for building your own desktop are the future upgrades. In this PC, there's an 8GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 supplied by PNY, but if you're sticking with current generation graphics cards and want something with a bit more oomph, buy an 11GB GeForce 1080Ti Turbo card by ASUS; it should get you the extra frames needed on an ultrawide monitor, for example.

Meanwhile, 4K gameplay and ray tracing is out of the question for current Nvidia GeForce graphics cards, but thanks to the headroom afforded to me by the 850 watt power supply, I'll be able to just swap out these cards for an RTX 2080 once those are available.

The versatility of swapping out current parts for new(er) ones - like a faster SSD, RGB backlit fans, more Corsair RAM - is one of the best aspects of PC building. And honestly, it's just a lot of fun.

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Building your own desktop PC isn't impossible. You can source your own GTX 1080, Core i7, or Corsair cooling then figure out what your PC will be for and build it. Furthermore, you'll be able to upgrade parts, like RTX GPUs, according to your needs, which is cost effective.

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While it can feel daunting to build a PC, the ability to choose your own components is more than worth the time investment. Because building a computer is potentially overwhelming, we've crafted a step-by-step guide to help you through the process.

We'll tell you everything you need to know about staying safe and organized while you install all the elements of your PC in the proper order. Get ready to step back in pride as you power on your own custom-built computer.

Getting started

This guide is all about piecing components together to create a functional machine. If you haven't selected and purchased all the required hardware, make sure you do that first. It's also a good idea to purchase (or craft) your case last so you can make sure everything will fit inside it.

Have your parts? Good. Let's build a computer!

There are a couple of safety issues to discuss before we actually start ripping open those boxes.

Safety first

There's an invisible risk when building a computer that can crush the most powerful system: Static electricity. The same force that lets you shock your friends when you wear wool socks can also fry components in a heartbeat. Fortunately, static is easy to all but eliminate with a few simple steps.

One simple solution is to purchase an anti-static wristband. One end wraps around your wrist, and the other clips somewhere on the computer case, keeping the wearer constantly grounded. Touching the case frequently with the PSU plugged in and powered off achieves the same effect.

This guide serves as a general overview of the process, and the instructions packed with your parts may vary from our suggestions. When they do, default to the included instructions and use our guide as a road map for the overall project.

Opening the case

Preparing the case is the easy part. Instructions for the specific case you purchased should introduce you to its basic layout as well as list special instructions regarding component installation.

Lay down the case in your work area and remove the side panel. For most PC cases, this means the left-side panel when viewed from the front. This panel provides access to the case interior.

Also, remove anything that's dangling inside the case. If it's attached, push it aside. Many cases have permanent internal wiring that becomes problematic later on.

Before we start putting everything together, we'll first install the power supply and then set the case aside for a few minutes.

Step 1: Install the power supply

The first component to make its way into the case should be the power supply (PSU). It is typically located at the rear of the case, usually in the bottom or top corner.

When in doubt, the slot is easily located by searching for a square opening with screw holes in at least two corners. The PSU sits in this opening with its power switch and a female socket facing out from the case's back panel. Consult your case's manual if you have trouble finding the proper location.

There are two main power supply variants: Standard and modular. There's a hybrid semi-modular type too, but we don't need to worry about that for now.

Modular PSUs have cables that detach from the main unit to avoid clutter. They're ideal for smaller cases and neat freaks. If you have a modular PSU, it's best to leave the cables out for now and run them as you install each additional component.

If the PSU's cables don't detach, carefully bundle them so they're hanging out the case's open side panel. This temporarily keeps them out of the way while we install the remaining components.

Step 2: Install the processor

Next, prepare the motherboard by installing the CPU, cooler, and RAM before fitting it in the case. They're a lot easier to install now rather than after the motherboard resides in the system.

In fact, depending on your case and cooler, you may not be able to assemble your system with the motherboard already installed. That's because many after-market coolers use a backplate to provide the tightest fit possible. It is, of course, attached to the back of the motherboard. You won't be able to install it unless you have a case with a cut-out that aligns with the backplate's location, a feature typically found only in high-end enclosures.

There are numerous pins on the CPU and motherboard, and bending any one of them could render that component kaput.

Carefully remove the motherboard from its anti-static bag and set it on a hard, flat, non-metal surface such as a wooden desk, or the top of the motherboard box itself. Also, make sure there are no sources of dust or liquid nearby.

Even though installing a CPU is an easier task now than it was in previous years, it's still one of the most precarious. There are numerous pins on the CPU and motherboard, and bending any one of them could render that component kaput.

That said, the process isn't designed to be difficult, and as long as you follow the instructions clearly and keep an eye out to ensure the chip is fully seated before you clamp it in place, you'll be fine. However, there are some subtle differences in the process depending on who made your CPU.

Instead of jutting from the processor, pins now reside in modern Intel sockets on motherboards, making CPU installation easy. This part of the socket is called the contact array. Absolutely do not bend or touch these pins!

The square metal bracket holding the CPU in place is the load plate, and it's raised and lowered using the load lever. When clamped down, the end of the load lever tucks under a hook to keep everything in place.

First, open the load plate. Do this by gently pushing down on the load arm and moving it out sideways from under the hook, and then raising it up all the way. The hook's lever action opens the plate, which you can easily flip up. If it's a new motherboard, there may be a plastic or foam filler in the socket, which you can gently remove.

Use the load arm on the side to lower the plate over the chip, then push down and re-clip the arm under the hook once again. This requires a fair amount of pressure, so make sure the chip is properly seated before pressing down.

Remember, the notches in the processor should align with those in the socket. If in doubt, start again and double-check.

Unlike Intel's design, pins jut from AMD's CPUs. These pins insert into holes embedded in the motherboard's CPU socket. The load arm on the socket slightly shifts the holes underneath, gripping the pins on the processor when pressed all the way down.

If it isn't already, raise the arm so that it's pointing straight up, and then rests a little farther back. That ensures the holes for the pins are wide open.

Instead of using notches, correctly line up the processor in the slot using a triangle engraved in gold on one of the CPU's corners. All you need to do is line that triangle up with a second triangle cut into the slot.

Once the processor sits comfortably in the slot, simply press the arm down until it clicks into place and locks in. This last step can be intimidating since it requires a fair amount of pressure to lock in place.

Step 3: Install the RAM

System memory, or RAM, doesn't require any careful goo placement or wires. There are just two important factors, assuming you've chosen compatible RAM: Direction and slot choice.

The direction is easy enough. Each memory stick has a notch in the contacts lining the bottom edge that lines up with a block in the motherboard's memory slots. If you hold it just above the slot and the two line up, it's facing the right direction. If it doesn't line up, spin it 180 degrees.

Slot choice depends on a few factors, one of which is how you purchased RAM. If it's just a single stick, install it in the A1 slot and move on with your life. A diagram in the motherboard's manual should label the slots if it isn't printed directly on the PCB.

However, you likely purchased two identical RAM sticks, a common package called a dual-channel configuration. The system can use both sticks as if they were a single block of RAM but accesses them individually, providing a modest boost to memory performance.

You should install these sticks in channels (slots) with matching colors, usually labeled A1 and B1, though sometimes A2 and B2 are preferable. Check your motherboard's manual to confirm which are best for your system.

Now that we know the proper slot and direction, the next part is easy. Push the plastic wings at either end of the slot down and outward (some motherboards only have one) then place the stick in the slot sticking straight up. Push down firmly until the RAM clicks into the slot, and the plastic wings click back in and clamp the ends of the sticks.

We put together a more detailed guide for how to install RAM if you need additional information.

Step 4: Install the motherboard

Installing your packed motherboard is easy enough, but it can't just sit in your case. Most modern cases have built-in, non-removable spacers between the back wall and motherboard, known as standoffs. They act as a ground for the motherboard while preventing the connections on the back from shorting.

Some cases have removable stand-offs you must manually install. They're easy to identify because they look unusual - essentially screws that have another screw hole on top instead of the typical screwdriver notch. They're usually copper or gold in color, making them easy to pick out.

If not, you may need to wiggle the motherboard slightly to make sure it snaps properly into the I/O shield and the stands-offs align. This may require some effort, but it shouldn't require much force. If you're forcing the motherboard, double-check how it's aligned, as it may not be properly positioned. Be firm but gentle.

Don't go wild while tightening screws, as you might damage the board if you put in too much effort.

Depending on the case and motherboard combination, pairing the two requires between six and 10 screws. You may find that not all holes match up with standoffs underneath. Drop a screw into a hole to see if it threads right away.

Like every set of screws, the first step is seating the screws and giving them a couple of precursory turns. Then, proceed in a star pattern, tightening each screw a little at a time. Don't go wild while tightening as you might damage the board. You only need enough torque to hold the board in place without wiggling.

Once the motherboard seats comfortably in the case, there are a few necessary connections.

First, the motherboard's power connection is a wide, two-row cable that fits snugly into a similar looking spot on the board itself. This 20-28 pin connector powers both the motherboard and the CPU. However, some boards have a second 4-pin or 8-pin connector for the processor, which resides near your CPU, typically in the top corner. If you have it, you'll need to plug that in, too.

Second, connect the case plugs and buttons to the motherboard. A double-wide row of pins - the location of which will be noted in your manual - runs the USB ports, buttons for reset and power, and activity LEDs for power and storage.

These small cables run in a bundle from wherever the ports reside in the case. Proper installation can be difficult, however, due to their size. If you have a magnifying glass or a set of tweezers, now is a great time to use them. Some motherboards include an adapter that bridges these jumpers to the right connections on your motherboard. Otherwise, installing them is as simple as matching the labels on the pins with the labels on the connections.

The USB header connecting to your front-facing motherboard ports will be on its own. This connection is around eight by two pins, and they're enclosed in a larger plastic housing. This header has a notch on one side that should clearly indicate which direction it plugs in.

Step 5: Install the CPU cooler and/or heat sink

With the motherboard now tethered to your case, you can wipe the sweat of concentration off your brow. Now it's time for the CPU cooler or heat sink!

Installation is simpler when using the CPU's packaged cooler. The process varies, however, given the different brands and generations. You'll need to refer to the included instructions for specific details. The same is true for third-party coolers, which use a proprietary installation bracket. Following the included instructions is crucial to your PC-building success.

Every cooler needs thermal paste. It's an excellent thermal conductor, allowing heat to transfer from the chip to the cooler with ease. Without it, your cooler won't work very well, if at all. If you aren't sure what type of thermal paste to use, it's well worth doing some research, and we have a list of the best thermal pastes for you to choose from, too.

AMD and Intel apply it to their coolers in the factory, but third-party coolers require manual pasting. Unfortunately, rubbing goo on an expensive CPU isn't as straightforward as it sounds.

When directed by the instructions, simply apply a single silver dot - about the size of a small pea - right in the center of the chip. After squishing the chip and cooler together, try not to wiggle or twist too much, to ensure a smooth, full connection.

For basic heat sinks, you're now finished; just wait for the paste to cure. But the full fan system still needs power. Plug the wires from the fan into a four-pin connection on the motherboard, which should be close to the processor and labeled "CPU_FAN."

Step 6: Install your graphics card

Not every system needs a dedicated graphics card (discrete GPU). If you want a stand-alone chip for graphics, like PC gaming, installation couldn't be simpler. We're also assuming for this step that the card you chose is appropriate for your case size, capabilities, and power supply.

Modern graphics cards use a PCI-Express (PCIe) slot. It's a long, thin connector located on the rear of the motherboard, below the processor. To seat the card in that slot, you'll need to remove a rectangular backplate from your enclosure. It's one of many thin metal brackets lined down the back of the case to keep it sealed up.

You'll need to remove one or two, depending on the card's width. Do this by removing the screw that secures the backplate to the chassis. Once removed, the plate should slide (or fall) out freely. Keep the screw as you'll need it in a moment.

After removing the brackets, make sure the switch on the motherboard's PCIe slot is pushed outward. Then, with the ports facing the empty spot where the backplate used to be, carefully line up the long series of contacts on the card with the appropriate slot on the motherboard. Once it's lined up properly, a solid push on the top of the card should cause it to snap into place as the switch clicks back in to hold it.

You don't need excessive force, but if you encounter a great deal of resistance, take another look at the backplate and PCIe slot to make sure both are clear and the motherboard is properly aligned. Also take note if there is a push-pin that locks the card in like your memory slots, as some motherboards use it as a safety measure.

Use the screws pulled from the metal brackets to fasten the back of the card into the same spot in the case. Again, they don't need to be extremely tight - just enough to hold the card firmly in place.

The connector is designed to prevent improper installation, so if the connection isn't easy, double-check your alignment to make sure it's correct.

Most video cards need extra power apart from what the PCIe slot provides. If your card needs extra juice, you'll see a PCIe power connector on the card's side facing away from the motherboard or, in some cases, on the side facing the front of the case. This connector is a group of square plastic pins numbering six or eight.

The most powerful cards may have two such connectors. Find the appropriate connector on your power supply, typically labeled VGA, and slot it in. The connector's design prevents improper installation, so if the connection isn't easy, double-check your alignment to make sure it's correct.

If you need additional help, we have a detailed guide on how to install a graphics card with additional information.

Step 7: Install any additional expansion cards

Graphics cards aren't the only components that use PCIe slots. Other add-in cards include wireless networking, sound, video capture, and even storage. Their installation is no different than adding a discrete GPU.

First, remove the metal bracket in the back of the case that corresponds with the PCIe or other expansion slot playing host to your add-in card. Keep the bracket screw handy so you can use it to secure your new card.

PCIe slots have a small switch at the interior end, which you push down and outward to open the slot. After that, line up the row of contacts on the card with the slot and firmly push down. Once you properly seat the card, the switch flips up. Securing the card in place is as simple as screwing it into the back of the case and attaching any necessary PCIe ports.

There are a few different types of PCIe slots. Many expansion cards use the "PCIe 4x" slot, which is much shorter than the full PCIe slot used by video cards. A quick check of your motherboard's connectivity, and the size of the connector on your card, will make it obvious which slot is appropriate. If in doubt, refer to the expansion card's manual.

Step 8: Install your storage drives

There are three different storage drive sizes you're likely to encounter, and they all mount and connect differently. Generally, hard disk drives (HDD) are the larger 3.5-inch size, while newer solid-state drives (SSD) adopt the smaller 2.5-inch size. There's also the even smaller M.2 format and PCI-Express drive format, which tend to be thin sticks with bare chips measuring around 1 x 3 inches.

We'll start with 3.5-inch data drives, which are usually mounted up high at the front of the system. Your case is almost guaranteed to have at least one slot dedicated to this drive type. Installation depends on the enclosure, however, as most cases have a simple hard drive cage. Installing a drive means slotting it into a mount on the cage and aligning the screw holes on the drive's sides with those on the cage. Make sure the drive's power and data connectors face inwards, toward the motherboard. Once aligned, screw the drive into place.

Modern cases quite commonly enjoy a "tool-less" installation system. As the term implies, this design should mean it's possible to install the drive without a screwdriver. Usually, this means placing the drive into a cradle or cage that slots into the case. Refer to your enclosure's instructions for specifics, since the technique varies from one brand to the next.

For 2.5-inch drives, the mounting process and location vary. Some cases have a cage, similar to the 3.5-inch mounting, where the SSD can just slide in - no rivets, screws or brackets needed. If it doesn't, the SSD requires an adapter so it can sit securely in a 3.5-inch bay.

You can mount this drive in one of two ways. Either the larger bracket provides holes inside so you can screw the drive into the middle, or the case includes a bracket that adds extra girth to the 2.5-inch drive.

Hard drives require two connections as well: One for power and one for data. The good news is that both are L-shaped, so it's hard to plug them in the wrong slot or the wrong direction.

For those with a newer M.2 drive, you'll want to look for a small slot that matches the width of your stick-shaped drive, and a screw located a few inches away. Remove the screw, insert the contact end into the slot, and then push down gently until you can use the screw to hold the drive in place once.

Finally, you can mount PCI-Express storage drives just like you do with graphics cards in an available PCI-Express slot.

Step 9: Make the final connections

Before you get too excited and hit that power button, it's worth running back through the system to make sure everything is properly seated and connected. Let's start with the components.

The motherboard is usually easy to spot if it isn't plugged in. Most PSUs have one wide cable that's obviously intended for this slot, with no other connections attached. It should plug into your board somewhere near the PCIe slots, but the location will vary.

Your motherboard is also likely to have a second, four-pin (or eight-pin) connector that powers the processor. You may need to look through your power supply's available connectors with a keen eye to find it given it resembles a PCIe power connector. But don't worry - a PCIe connector won't fit, so improper installation isn't possible.

The CPU cooler also needs power, but that flows from the motherboard. Its power cable doesn't need to go far, as most motherboards keep the plug close to the socket. The little wire is just three or four sockets and connects to a set of four pins on the motherboard.

The hard drives need power too in the form of L-shaped SATA connectors (unless it's a PCIe drive). Typically, a string of three or four lines run straight from the power supply using unique connectors. You can't install them the wrong way, either.

Finally, high-powered graphics cards need dedicated power connections, usually in the form of a black rectangular connector with six or eight pins. These plugs are brightly colored and easy to spot and only fit in the interior end of the card in one orientation. If they aren't plugged in, the fans on the card won't spin, and it won't produce any video output.

Step 10: Power on

Now that you've double-checked everything, switch on the power supply and press the power button on the front. A lot of systems don't boot correctly the first time, so don't get discouraged if you need to go back and check connections again.

Once it does boot, you'll need to install an operating system (OS). Luckily, we've built a handy guide that clearly walks you through the process. If you don't have another PC around to download the ISO, you can purchase a USB thumb drive from Microsoft with the OS image ready to go.

After that, you may need to install drivers. Windows 10 already supports modern chipsets and automatically downloads and installs the remaining drivers in most cases. Check the Update & Security menu in the Settings pane for more information regarding this process.

If that doesn't work, the chipset driver for your motherboard will handle most connectivity and onboard features, though this varies greatly based on motherboard and component manufacturers. Remember to check component boxes for install discs and other information before throwing them out with the trash.

Typically, only discrete graphics cards require you to manually download and install the latest driver. Check out the AMD page for Radeon drivers or the Nvidia page for GeForce drivers.

With some luck and a lot of attention to detail, you should have a fully operational system. Make sure to keep an eye out for any error messages, and hold your hand outside the case fans to make sure air flows and isn't too hot - at least for a few weeks.

If something breaks or needs an upgrade, you're fully equipped to deal with it. Just watch out for static.

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While it can feel daunting to build a PC, the ability to choose your own components is more than worth the time investment. Because building a computer is potentially overwhelming, we've crafted a step-by-step guide to help you through the process.