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Vintage Shop Manger Interview Transcript

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Vintage Shop Manger Interview Transcript

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Charity Shop Manager Interview Transcript

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Charity Shop Manager Interview Transcript

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- Finish off and perfect all areas ensuring that everything is ready to upload .

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- Making improvements and formatting the report to look aesthetically pleasing and interesting in Canva
- Get feedback from family and friends and make any adjustments

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- Start collating and analysing primary research
- Start writing up results and findings

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- Social Media section
- Destigmatisation of secondhand section
- PESTLE

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Conscious Style Podcast - Is It Possible to Overconsume Secondhand Fashion?

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Conscious Style Podcast - Is It Possible to Overconsume Secondhand Fashion?

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How to Break Up With Fast Fashion - Lauren Bravo

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How to Break Up With Fast Fashion - Lauren Bravo

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Chiang Mai Thailand Jun 15 2018 Stock Photo 1122995201 | Shutterstock

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Chiang Mai Thailand Jun 15 2018 Stock Photo 1122995201 | Shutterstock

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Find Chiang Mai Thailand Jun 15 2018 stock images in HD and millions of other royalty-free stock photos, illustrations and vectors in the Shutterstock collection. Thousands of new, high-quality pictures added every day.

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Love Islander Tasha Ghouri signs huge pre-loved fashion deal with eBay UK

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It's the first non-fast fashion brand partnership to come out of the cult TV series

Love Island star Tasha Ghouri has just landed a huge fashion brand deal with eBay UK.

Tasha, who came fourth on the ITV2 dating show alongside partner Andrew Le Page, announced her new role as the marketplace's 'pre-loved ambassador' via a post on her Instagram.

In a bid to become more sustainable this season, Love Island partnered with eBay, encouraging the Islanders to wear pre-loved clothes while in the villa, and it's the first non-fast fashion brand partnership to come out of the cult TV series.

Continuing in its mission to change the way we shop for clothes and putting secondhand fashion centre stage, the collaboration is a natural next step for eBay, after the model and dancer was quickly dubbed this year's fashion style icon, providing us with a master class in pre-loved styling each night.

Alongside a series of promotional photos, Tasha wrote: "A BIRTHDAY GIFT TO LAST A LIFETIME. I am over the moon to announce I am @ebay_uk first ever pre-loved ambassador.

"Prior to Love Island, I've always bought secondhand for my wardrobe, so partnering with #eBay really is a dream come true.

"I feel passionately that we can all make little swaps to our wardrobes and our lives for the better and so I'm excited to join eBay on their mission to put secondhand fashion front and centre."

She added: "Plus I'd like to think that over the last 8 weeks I have shown that pre-loved serves up amazing looks while bringing out my personality! Watch this space, more will be revealed!"

Fans were quick to congratulate Tasha on the news, as well as former Love Island stars including Laura Anderson, Liberty Poole, Adam Collard, and of course her supportive boyfriend Andrew.

Reality TV star Vicky Pattison also took to the post commenting: "Happy birthday gorgeous!!! And well done."

While TV presenter and former Gogglebox star Scarlett Moffatt said: "Happy birthday beautiful you deserve it all."

The collaboration between eBay and Tasha may come as a surprise for some, after viewers speculated whether Islanders might strike up deals with fast fashion brands. In a first ever, the partnership with eBay will see Tasha promoting a responsible and conscious way of shopping that can help both wallets and the planet.

Commenting on the partnership, eBay's Head of Fashion, Jemma Tadd said, "Over the past 8 weeks, we've seen Islander's embrace pre-loved for the first time ever on mainstream TV, showing that simple additions or swaps to outfits can make all the difference - in so many ways.

"Tasha has been a game-changer and her eye for style is undeniable. She is a fantastic role model for what fashion of the future looks like and we look forward to bringing Tasha's vision and style to life as our partnership continues."

You can shop all the Islanders pre-loved looks from the series here as well as brands such as River Island, New Look and Oasis.

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Love Islander Tasha Ghouri signs huge pre-loved fashion deal with eBay UK

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It's the first non-fast fashion brand partnership to come out of the cult TV series

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Today, eBay announces it has officially recoupled with Love Island to continue to drive conversations and encourage shoppers to think pre-loved first.

Last series, the online marketplace became Love Island's first ever pre-loved fashion partner, with the aim of sparking a movement to inspire a more conscious way of shopping.

New research from ITV reveals one in two (53 percent) of Love Island viewers aware of the eBay partnership said they'd bought pre-loved in the past three months, more than double the amount for those who hadn't watched or been aware of the partnership.

If research figures were extrapolated to population level, an estimated 2.7 million people say they are making more effort to shop sustainably as a result.

As part of a move away from fast fashion on the show, viewers at home followed suit and since the announcement, eBay UK has seen 1600% more searches for 'pre-loved clothes'. There have also been 24% more new circular fashion businesses that joined the online marketplace.

Showing that pre-loved fashion is not just a trend, but is here to stay, eBay's Pre-loved Fashion Stylist, Amy Bannerman will once again be sourcing fashion from eBay to style series 9's Islanders in pre-loved. Alongside pre-loved clothes, for the first time, a selection of pre-loved, authenticated sneakers and items from its Imperfects range will also be heading to the villa wardrobe.

Islanders will embrace pre-loved garments with a dynamic curated shared wardrobe situated in the new villa. Showcasing how they 'couple up with pre-loved', viewers can expect to see the Islanders wearing fits that reflect their personalities and individuality, while doing their bit to extend the life cycle of clothes.

Kirsty Keoghan, Global GM of Fashion at eBay said: " We're so excited to be returning to the Love Island villa in this series to put pre-loved fashion, centrestage. The partnership has already shown its impact with Islanders and our Pre-loved Ambassador Tasha Ghouri demonstrating their true style and flair with pre-loved looks. We're very excited to continue this conversation and show the nation how good pre-loved really can look. "

Mike Spencer, Creative Director of Love Island at Lifted Entertainment said: " We are thrilled to be pairing up with eBay again as our pre-loved fashion partner. We are excited to keep working with ebay and to keep highlighting more conscious ways of shopping on screen. This partnership will see our lucky Islanders get to pick and wear some incredible clothes sourced from eBay. We love pre-loved. "
ENDS Notes to Editors About Sneakers Authenticity Guarantee on eBay
eBay launched its Authentication Guarantee for Sneakers in July 2022 which comes at no extra cost to the buyer or the seller, with items being delivered via secure delivery. eBay's number one goal with Authenticity Guarantee is to build consumer trust and confidence when buying new and pre-loved sneakers on eBay. Working with industry experts to fully verify and vet those items which are sold at or above their corresponding threshold, they are sent to the Authentication Centre to go through a rigorous, multi-point physical inspection, whether it's the stitching, leather or bezel with the product's collateral (sneaker box) also being reviewed.
About Imperfects on eBay
Imperfects is the fashion equivalent to supermarkets' wonky veg initiative. Offering clothes, shoes and accessories which are considered new, but with defects, from over 100 high-street and high-end designers including North Face, Off White, Puma, Fila, and Timberland at up to 60% off.

Imperfect items may include defects such as a small scuff or mark, a button missing or a loose thread that may have been from the factory or are ex-display which means they can't be sold at full price as it did not meet the manufacturers strict quality standards. We partner with both brands and resellers to sell their imperfect stock. If any brands or retailers are interested in being involved, they can either partner directly with us or there are trusted seller partners we can connect them with.
About Amy Bannerman
Amy started her career in fashion setting up a vintage clothing stall with a loan from the Prince's Trust. She sourced and imported vintage clothes from Canada and sold them from her busy market stall in east London. Most recently Amy was the Fashion Director of Cosmopolitan for four years. Here she successfully pioneered a new path for the magazine, seamlessly incorporating second hand clothes into cover shoots and fashion stories.

Within a fast fashion culture she has tirelessly promoted a more responsible, ecologically aware way of shopping and this is something she is extremely passionate about. Amy's love of second hand doesn't stop with her work, she has bought and sold on eBay for over 20 years and dresses almost exclusively in second hand and vintage. She lives in a house furnished with an eclectic mix of furniture bought predominantly from eBay and her son now dresses top to toe in pre-loved too.

Amy has styled celebrities such as Jonathan Van Ness, Lena Dunham, Dua Lipa, Sophie Turner, Rita Ora, amongst many others. Amy also previously worked at Elle and InStyle, and styled fashion stories for iD, Glamour and The Sunday Times Style. Instagram - @amybannermanstylist

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After changing viewers' attitudes around pre-loved fashion, eBay is putting pre-loved back on screens for Love Island series 9

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Juicy Couture Pink Rhinestone Zip-Through Hoodie

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Luxe velour zip-through hoodie from Juicy Couture topped with rhinestone logo detailing. Features a cropped silhouette and finished with ribbed knit trims.

Content + Care
- 95% Polyester, 5% Elastane
- Machine wash

Size + Fit
- Model is 170cm/5'7" and wearing size Small

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Juicy Couture Pink Rhinestone Zip-Through Hoodie

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Shop Juicy Couture Pink Rhinestone Zip-Through Hoodie at Urban Outfitters today. We carry all the latest styles, colours and brands for you to choose from right here.

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Kim Kardashian's outfit the first time she met Kanye West's mother is so 2007

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Kim Kardashian has revealed she wore a bright pink Juicy Couture track suit as she headed out to meet Kanye West's mother for the first time and it's so 2007 it hurts.

'Fun Fact- in this pic I was on my way to meet Kanye for his Good Life performance for the MTV Awards,' the reality star shared after fans posted the pictures on Twitter.

'I didn't really know him but his people called my people lol & I was a girl in the audience at the live performance in Vegas.

'I met his mom Donda this same night.'

In the pictures Kim is wearing low slung pink velour trackie bottoms along with an almost see-through white vest and a matching pink velour jacket.

She is carrying a Louis Vuitton bag and wearing white flip flops.

'P.S. I still have this sweatsuit and this bag,' she added, striking us with fear that the mid-2000s fashion may be about to make a big return.

The pair remained friends for years until 2012 when their romance blossomed; that year he referenced her in the lyrics to song Cold which revealed he had long had a crush on her.

The pair became engaged in 2013 and months later welcomed their first child, North West.

'I just knew I wanted her to be my girl for a long time,' Kanye told Ryan Seacrest radio interview on Tuesday, after their engagement which took place in a baseball park in San Francisco, which he hired out and to which he invited her family and friends.

'I remember I saw a picture of her and Paris Hilton, and I remember telling my boy, "Have you seen that girl Kim Kar-dijon?"'

https://www.instagram.com/p/Br3l0Qynuwm/

They are now a family of five, welcoming their son, Saint, in 2015 and a daughter named Chicago via surrogacy in January 2018.

Kanye confirmed in early 2019 that they are expecting their fourth child, also via surrogacy.

Got a showbiz story?

MORE : Luka Sabbat declares himself a 'Kardashian' as he joins Kourtney on her family break in Aspen

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Kim Kardashian's outfit the first time she met Kanye West's mother is so 2007

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'P.S. I still have this sweatsuit and this bag,' she added, striking us with fear that the mid-2000s fashion may be about to make a big return.

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It all starts with the haggle - car boot sale hacks

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It all starts with the haggle - car boot sale hacks

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The great British car boot sale will be back with a bang this spring and summer

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The RealReal Expands its SoCal Presence with New Brentwood Store

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Brentwood just got a lot more bougie. Home to the likes of Kristin Davis, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and LeBron James, the celeb-studded neighborhood has welcomed arguably its most affluent resident yet - The RealReal, the cult-favorite online marketplace for authenticated, resale luxury goods.

Offering the finer things in life a second chance at appreciation and enjoyment, the company's new community-driven 2,200-square-foot store - its second in L.A. - features not one, but two luxury consignment offices and a hyper-localized selection of womenswear, fine jewelry, home goods, art, and more curated based on data around trends, brands, and styles unique to Brentwood.

"Brentwood is such a distinct neighborhood in that it has a mix of both urban and suburban energy with a bit of Hollywood glam. It is a vibrant, premiere shopping destination where local shoppers and consignors already have such a strong appetite for luxury. As we join the neighborhood, we look forward to bringing our expert insight to help our consignors make savvy investments and provide the opportunity to participate in the circular economy," said TRR Brentwood's head of shop Morgan Lobell.

Photo: Courtesy of Joyce Lee for The RealReal

The store on 26th Street offers complimentary fine jewelry, watch, and handbag valuations by TRR experts, including gemologists and horologists. In keeping with its mission to extend the life cycle of luxury goods, TRR Brentwood also offers a full menu of services for all categories including cleaning, repairs, and bespoke alterations.

Based on TRR's data, the Brentwood customer has a penchant for classic Rolex and Cartier watches, Tiffany & Co. jewelry, Hermès handbags and shoes, as well as clothing from labels Loewe and Simone Rocha.

Brentwood also inspired the store's design concept and color palette. TRR partnered with Thompson Street Studio to create a large-scale, double-sided textile reflective of SoCal's laid-back charm. The result: a light-flooded space with pops of blush and olive that's spacious yet snug, well-stocked yet spruce, posh yet unpretentious.

Photo: Courtesy of Joyce Lee for The RealReal

With over 24 million members globally, over 22 million items sold, and now 19 locations throughout the U.S., TRR has been the go-to destination for securing rare finds and the season's best in fashion from designers like Saint Laurent, Chanel, Hermès, Prada, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton.

Recently, as part of a collab with TRR, Janet Jackson just put some of her coveted tour merch - some from as far back as 1993 - up for sale, proceeds from which will benefit nonprofit company Girls Leadership. TRR will also contribute $10,000 to the organization.

According to TRR's 2022 Luxury Consignment report, some of the pieces millennials and Gen Z shoppers are discovering for the first time include vintage pieces from the closets of Gen X. Dresses are the number one item sold by first-time consignors and first-time shoppers while Gucci is the number one brand for both groups. Tiffany & Co.'s average sale price grew 23% year-over-year and Gen X is still its top resale demographic. In addition, demand for unbranded jewelry continues rising, with a $350,000 unbranded engagement ring becoming the expensive item ever sold on TRR.

TRR's research also shows the average sale price for high-value Nike sneakers grew 32% YOY, two times more than any other brand, while New Balance sneaker collabs top the list of what to sell now, with a resale value of up to 387%.

Photo: Courtesy of Joyce Lee for The RealReal

Over the next five years, the secondhand market is projected to double to $77 billion with major resale platforms accounting for roughly half of that figure. The pandemic was and still is an accelerant for the secondhand market as many took up luxury consignment resale to earn extra cash. Supply chain disruptions and increased consumer demand also shifted people's perception of used goods, causing a sudden explosion and interest in secondhand in 2021.

Check out the address to TRR's fancy new digs below and bask in the fact that it's celebrating the opening now through the end of the month with a $100 shopping credit on a same-day purchase for selling at one of their stores. If you're still as Covid-conscious as we all were in 2021, the Brentwood location offers shopping with same-day pickup in-store or curbside. In-person consignment is by appointment or curbside drop-off.
The RealReal Brentwood, 200 26th St, Santa Monica, 90402; (310) 299-8855; open Monday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.
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The RealReal Expands its SoCal Presence with New Brentwood Store

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Featuring a selection of coveted luxury items based on styles and trends unique to Brentwood.

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Here's What To Expect From The Sizzling Fashion On This Series Of Love Island

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The mantra for this season is 'single-wear summer is over'.

Gird your loins, people: the new season of Love Island arrives on our screens next week, ready to take over our summer with bikinis, bodycons and a boatload of banter. But forget the abs for a hot second - what can we expect from the fashion?

This year, Love Island is back in bed with eBay for a third consecutive season, meaning there will be more pre-loved garbs than you can shake an ice lolly stick at. With it, comes a new mission statement: single-wear summer is over.

As the nation packs their suitcases to jet off on their holidays, new research reveals that Brits are expected to buy 50 million throwaway outfits this summer, with more than a third of shopper's panic buying last-minute clothes just a week before they fly. One in four consumers also admit to binning clothes after their trip - a mindset eBay's pre-loved style director Amy Bannerman is keen to see dumped.

'Each season, we're cutting down on how much we buy,' she says. 'Instead, we go through the old collection and see where there's gaps to fill.'

Accordingly, alongside freshly sourced designer pre-loved picks spanning Versace to Jacquemus, fans can also expect to see returning favourites worn by Islanders in previous series. Remember the yellow Versace two-piece worn by Tasha, Olivia and Ellie? It's back in the Islanders' wardrobes for another season.

'The woman who sold it to me on eBay actually got in contact after she saw it on the show last year,' says Bannerman, speaking at a preview event in London last night. 'She couldn't believe it was her outfit. She told me she used to wear it to go raving in the 90s, and she'd offered it to her kids who didn't want it before listing. They're kicking themselves now.'

There are reworked pieces from previous seasons too, like one floral shirt Will wore and tore on a date with Jessie when he got overexcited feeding the ducks. 'It looked like it had been in a shredder,' laughs Bannerman, adding that it was sent off to be fixed and is back looking better than ever courtesy of intricate embroidery. Other items have been altered, including maxi skirts made into minis, denim cut-offs trimmed with crystals and men's Ralph Lauren shirts seamed and fitted at the waist with corsetry. There's also one top made entirely out of bandanas, with Bannerman predicting this will be 'one all the islanders will share.'

Here, she talks through the four top trends we can expect to see turning heads this summer.
Red Carpet Ready
'Inspired by the stars of the red carpet, this trend combines super glam, modern tailoring and total elegance. From the likes of Versace, Reiss and House of CB, the trend is all about those show-stopping looks. I've been thinking a lot about how to get the girls in red carpet that isn't just gowns too, so there is lots of cool tailoring teamed with bandeau tops. I'm excited to see the Islanders embracing this trend, whether it be for a bigger moment or simply an evening around the firepit. I think so many people get their fashion inspiration from red carpet looks, and it's really a chance to feel empowered and confident.'

Bringing Sexy Back

'This trend is all about those sexy and luscious 'fits. For the girls, expect to see barely-there dresses, strappy co-ords and miniskirts. My favourite item is a pink cut-out Coperni dress, but there's also an incredible lingerie-inspired by Nensi Dojaka and a vintage Victoria's Secret slip. For the boys, they'll impress in luxe printed shirts, undone silhouettes, and silky fabrics. This trend is one that continues to make a comeback and has more recently been seen on everyone from Love Island's very own Maya Jama to Hailey Bieber and Harry Styles. I love how this trend really makes people feel great about themselves and it can be done so simply and offers such versatility.'
No TV But Chill
'This trend puts a spin on 'Netflix and Chill' - it's all about those more relaxed moments by the pool, daytime dates and coffee chats - while still looking glam! We see the trend all the time, from Bella Hadid heading for a coffee with friends, to Emily Ratakovski spotted strolling the streets in a linen co-ord. For the girls, you'll see a balance between sexy and cute, matching dressier tops with boyfriend jean, and throwing a loose-fitting shirt over an outfit. And for the boys, they'll wear open shirts and vest tops. Denim is always better second-hand, because it's been washed 1,000 times and has a naturally lived-in feel. Ultimately, this trend is the perfect mix of style and comfort and I love it.'

Wardrobe Wins

'We need a trend that totally celebrates fashion, and 'wardrobe wins' is the one. It's all about putting you best fashion foot forward in those classic outfits. For the boys, we're serving them up the brands they love, in the styles they love! From smart-casual 'fits, to knitted polos and co-ords. For the girls, we're styling them in timeless and simple pieces - those staple maxi dresses and bodysuits. There's an incredible ribbed Versace jacket which I can't wait to see how the Islanders will style, and lots of leopard print too - it's fun, but something you'll have forever as it never goes out of style. Whether it's a simple blazer co-ord, or a maxi dress, this trend will see the girls and guys alike turn heads in staple outfits that will never go out of fashion.'

If this has you all fired up for coupling up with your own perfect pre-loved holiday wardrobe, Bannerman has tips for you too...
Day-To-Night Dressing
'Grab yourself a dress which will take you from the pool side to cocktail hour - it's a true holiday staple that presents flexibility when it comes to making plans. Floaty style dresses can be worn as beach cover-ups throughout the day, and easily elevated in the evening by pairing with some heels and jewellery. Go for cheesecloth or naturally wrinkled fabrics so you don't have to iron, also try out the visible bra trend by wearing something clashing peeping from underneath.'
Sarongs Aren't Just For The Beach
'Buy a vintage batik printed sarong and style it in different ways, folded in half and tied at the hip as a mini skirt, tied at the hip and full length as a maxi skirt, folded into a triangle and worn as a bandana style top, tied around your neck, and hanging free as a maxi dress for the evening. Wear with unexpected sportswear inspired pieces to modernise the look, like a vintage t shirt or a classic ribbed vest.'

'Nab a shirt from a man in your life, I love a striped classic Ralph Lauren shirt which can be worn as a beach cover-up, made neater by tying in a knot at the front, or using a hairband to secure and folding the excess fabric underneath, or worn as an oversized dress for the evening, just add some big crystal earrings and strappy barely-there heels to make it feel more glam.'
It's All About The Co-Ord
Borrow your best friend's skirt that you've always loved, it might be old to her, but it's new to you.
Shop Neutral
Co-ords are the key to creating multiple styles using just two pieces - they can be worn together, or separately for a completely different look.
Holey Moley Preparation Avoids Panic
You are more likely to tire of printed pieces and neutral pieces will stand the test of time, denim is a neutral.
Moodboard It
Crochet is really having a moment, but it is one of those things that never really goes out of style. Crochet is lightweight too and it packs down small so it will take up minimal space in your case. Hand-wash these pieces to keep them looking fresh and steer clear of the tumble dryer!

Don't leave it till the last minute. Try everything on and see where the gaps are. Then sell what you don't need any more and invest in a few luxury pieces rather than a lot of cheap new pieces.

Pinterest or IG your favourite looks and get an idea of how you want to look this summer so you can shop in a more considered way.

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Here's What To Expect From The Sizzling Fashion On This Series Of Love Island

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Love Islanders will once again be wearing second-hand clothes from eBay. Read more on Grazia.

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Does Love Island's eBay partnership signal the end for fast fashion?

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Does Love Island's eBay partnership signal the end for fast fashion?

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eBay listings surged 1026% while UK TV show Love Island was on air.

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The trouble with secondhand: It's becoming like fast fashion

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This article is part of our Vogue Business Membership package. To enjoy unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our NFT Tracker and TikTok Trend Tracker, weekly Technology and Sustainability Edits and exclusive event invitations, sign up for Membership .

Secondhand fashion shares a problem with fast fashion: overconsumption.

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The trouble with secondhand: It's becoming like fast fashion

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This article is part of our Vogue Business Membership package. To enjoy unlimited access to Member-only reporting and insights, our NFT Tracker and TikTok Trend Tracker, weekly Technology and Sustainability Edits and exclusive event invitations, sign up for Membership . Secondhand fashion shares a problem with fast fashion: overconsumption.

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Second-Hand Fashion: On The Rise But Will It Save The Environment? - Business Leader News

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Second-hand fashion is a hot market right now. The sector has grown considerably since the cost of living has gone up and looks set to become bigger than fast fashion in a few years' time. But as economies around the world stabilise, will the market slow down and does buying second-hand really solve the environmental damage that buying clothes inflicts? We take a closer look.

Is the cost-of-living crisis causing consumers to go second-hand?

UK consumers have been enduring the cost-of-living crisis since late 2021. Still ongoing, inflation has only recently crept back under double digits, whilst interest rates have hit 5%, their highest amount in 15 years. As things have steadily become more expensive, the number of people purchasing second-hand clothing has gone up.

City A.M reported that in 2022, eBay saw a 24 percent increase in circular fashion businesses joining the site, and searches for pre-loved clothing on eBay UK rose 1600 percent from summer 2022 to January 2023. According to GlobalData, the UK clothes resale market also grew by 149% between 2016 and 2022 and is forecast to increase by 67.5% from 2022 to 2026.

According to Cam McGimpsey, the CEO of Birl, a SaaS platform that rewards customers for giving their clothes back, the cost-of-living crisis is making second-hand more attractive to consumers.

He says: "It will be the cost-benefit/savings of second-hand that will result in mass adoption, as unfortunately, the environmental benefit by itself won't be enough. We can already see this with Gen Z shoppers, who are able to obtain the brands they want at a significant discount compared with new. Naturally, the cost-of-living crisis will draw larger sections of society who are unable to purchase what they want if it is new, and therefore will help speed up second-hand adoption."

Diana Saarva, Chief Operating Officer of Miros, a visual AI platform for shoppers, says that whilst increased consumption was a consequence of rising living costs, the number of people shopping secondhand was already on the rise.

She comments: "One of the effects of the cost-of-living crisis was producing increased consumption of second-hand goods. However, this only escalated what was already surging at the time and initiated a consumer incentive of shopping second-hand, beyond trends and means of shopping circularly.
"This includes the generated hype of shopping for pre-loved goods that circulated social media during the pandemic amongst Gen-Z shoppers due to vintage-inspired trends and 'thrifting'. Moves towards circular fashion were something that existed before economic instability."
Despite remaining high, inflation in the UK has started to fall, and the Bank of England expects it will drop to 2% by late 2024. So, once prices begin to stabilise, will people return to buying their clothing brand new again?

McGimpsey doesn't think so.

He says: "In truth, I don't think a return to economic stability will reduce adoption, as disposable income has been eroding away for quite some time now. The cost-of-living crisis has only accelerated the real income reduction that was taking place anyway. Finding cheaper alternatives is no longer a luxury, but instead a necessity for so many consumers."

Saarva concurs.

She comments: "If the economy stabilises, I don't believe second-hand marketplaces for luxury goods will suffer a loss. People are after pre-loved luxury due to increased prices of high-fashion goods. For example, Chanel keeps increasing stock prices, particularly their classic flap. Therefore, those after classic bags will look toward second-hand marketplaces as a means to purchase within a more affordable price range whilst maintaining a similar value of the goods purchased."

Can second-hand fashion compete with fast fashion on price?

Whilst there are plenty of opportunities to pick up a bargain second-hand, the sector still has to compete with fast fashion, which is notoriously cheap and bad for the environment. A Guardian story from 2019 covering a £4 dress from Boohoo epitomises exactly what the second-hand market is up against. Buying from a vintage shop can also mean consumers pay more for a second-hand item than they would for a brand-new item from a fast-fashion retailer, which raises important questions over whether second-hand can truly ever compete with fast fashion in this regard.

However, McGimpsey thinks education is the key to resolving this.

He comments: "Yes, an item may be more expensive, but the fact that it is still in good condition in a vintage store shows how well made it is and how long it will last. It also shows that it has good re-sell value for you once you no longer have a need for it.
"Secondly, it also looks like help is coming. The government may be introducing extended producer responsibility (EPR) legislation within the next few years. This will make it legally binding for anyone producing clothing to contribute to its effective disposal at the end of its lifecycle. This legislation will hit fast fashion the hardest, and as a result make purchasing better products, whether new or second-hand, a more attractive proposition for everyone."
But price is not the only way the second-hand market is in competition with fast fashion. According to Saarva, Instagram culture and how it affects shoppers' consumption of fast fashion is a big barrier to the growth of secondhand.

She comments: "Most barriers concern consumer shopping habits: the Instagram consumer culture and its need to purchase new outfits for every outing or just post a new picture. This is most common amongst the younger generation. Therefore, the accessibility for fast fashion platforms, in terms of price points, constant release of new stock and quick shipping options, and lesser consumer spending power, is a big challenge.
"Second-hand marketplaces are being used by this 'Instagram Generation' to sell clothes they wore once and purchased from fast fashion retailers at an even lower price. Also, fast fashion sites are now part of second-hand marketplaces: Pretty Little Thing & Asos are two of many which have incorporated second-hand shopping. Zara has most recently joined the 'fast fashion turned circular' cohort. TikTok and Instagram also have their own marketplaces, which might be of concern because they sell inexpensive fashion items perpetuating the expansion of fast fashion."
According to Peter Lydon, Chief Product Officer at Birl, the biggest barrier to growth is still the taboo that surrounds wearing used clothing. He says younger generations have managed to get past this, but older generations still have a long way to go to being fully converted.

Lydon continues: "Focusing more on the commercial barriers to growth, second-hand fashion does not have the economies of scale that are available when selling new products. Items do not come in size runs, each item needs to be photographed and warehouse storage is a lot more resource intense. In addition to this, second-hand isn't e-commerce friendly, as consumers want to truly understand their item's condition before making a purchase.
"The other key hurdle is the current lack of transparency in second-hand, and this needs to be improved. Sellers are often buying their inventory blind and are let down on what they thought they were purchasing. Buyers don't have the same rights as they do when purchasing new, so often don't have the confidence required to convert."
Despite the various barriers to growth, it looks as if the second-hand market is set to thrive in the years ahead. According to Thredup's Resale Report 2023, the global secondhand market is expected to grow three times faster on average than the global apparel market overall and will be worth $351 billion by 2027.

But will it save the environment?

As touched on earlier, one of the biggest growth drivers for the second-hand sector is its eco-credentials and the increase of more eco-conscious consumers. However, the fast fashion market is expected to continue growing too. According to Statista, the worldwide fast fashion market was estimated to be worth around $106 billion in 2022 and will be worth $185 billion by 2027. With the market continuing to grow, emissions from fast fashion are expected to increase 50% by 2030.

So, even though the second-hand market will nearly double the size of fast fashion by 2027, is it enough to offset the environmental damage being caused?

"No, it isn't enough, but it is a good start", says Lydon. "There are two other key actions that stakeholders need to embrace to get much closer to net zero.
"Firstly, at a top level we need to be allocating more resources to accelerate the commercial viability of fibre-to-fibre recycling. Fibre-to-fibre recycling is the process of turning clothing back into clothing, which unfortunately is much more difficult than turning other items (like plastic bottles) into clothing. It is scientifically possible, but not currently commercially viable. "Whilst fibre-to-fibre is being made into a scalable reality, brands should be looking to reduce the emissions created by their end-to-end production process. Reductions can be made by using better materials, greener energy sources and more efficient transportation practices as a start. Brands also need to work with credible carbon capture products to offset the remaining emissions that they are still creating."
However, Saarva says buying secondhand still indirectly supports fast fashion and fuels overconsumption.

She continues: "Online shopping means it is easy for customers to buy without thinking, while major brands offer cheap clothes that can be treated like disposable items - worn two or three times and then thrown away. One aspect of the online shopping problem is customers "settling" for cheap items they find on sale rather than buying items they love and keep. And this happens because search algorithms are operated by outdated technology that doesn't know how to interact with the modern customer.
"We are tackling this problem with our Wordless Search feature that uses AI to translate customer intent into efficient search results in an online store so that customers can find it easy to find the right products even for hard-to-describe styles, patterns or colour combinations. This makes it less likely for clothes to be discarded after a few wears into the second-hand market."
Even as economies around the world begin to stabilise, the second-hand market will not slow down. And whilst its growth is certainly more encouraging than that of the fast fashion sector, the reality is general overconsumption of clothes means the environment will continue to take a hit. But as new eco-technologies emerge and legislation comes into effect, there are, at least, some signs of encouragement for the future.

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Second-Hand Fashion: On The Rise But Will It Save The Environment? - Business Leader News

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Second-hand fashion will soon become bigger than fast, but will it stop growing as economies stabilise and will it save the environment?

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- negative affects section
- conclusion
- recommendations: fashion revolution
- executive summary
- transcript of interview: summarised
- PESTLE analysis
- find charts and graphs
- put in template
- presentation
- bibliography

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This Summer Barnardo's Retail have teamed up with a host of famous faces to launch our brand-new summer campaign, Fashion For All.

We want to show everyone that regardless of your age, body shape, style and budget - there is something for everyone this summer at your local Barnardo's store.

Styled by Glamour fashion director and self-confessed charity shop afficionado, Alexandra Fullerton, and shot by Candice Lake, our new campaign features a host of celebrities dressed head-to-toe in Barnardo's fashion including Donna Air, TV star Lydia Bright, actress Katherine Parkinson, Vanessa White from The Saturdays, and actress Michelle Collins and many more.

Discover the joy of shopping pre-loved fashion at your local Barnardo's store today, with over 630 stores across the UK and new lines added daily, your perfect summer wardrobe is just waiting to be discovered in your local Barnardo's store.

Better yet, every item you purchase from your local Barnardo's store helps to fund our vital work with the UK's most vulnerable children, young people and families.

What are you waiting for?

Head over to your local Barnardo's store today and find something that makes you feel fabulous this Summer - without breaking the bank!

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This Summer Barnardo's Retail have teamed up with a host of famous faces to launch our brand-new summer campaign, Fashion For All. We want to show everyone that regardless of your age, body shape, style and budget - there is something for everyone this summer at your local Barnardo's store.

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Welcome to luxury fashion resale: Discerning customers beckon to brands

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The resale luxury market, already sizeable (estimated at $25-30 billion in 2020), is surging: industry watchers predict an annual growth rate of 10-15 percent over the next decade. This is thanks in part to the success of specialized digital trading platforms, as well as changes in consumer behavior.

With such rich rewards, brands are eyeing the market with interest, with some taking steps to invest. Others remain cautious: with valuable brand identities as well as margins to protect, there's good reason to think carefully about the inherent value of the resale sector.

Over the past three months, McKinsey has delved into this topic, conducting consumer research in North America, the EU and Asia, canvassing luxury players, and running directional studies. Our findings confirm the appeal of the resale trade: done prudently, brand entry should not erode margins, and would result in only limited cannibalization.

For discerning consumers, brand involvement is an attractive prospect. For brands, the challenge is finding unique ways to add value to the resale shopping experience. What's clear is that luxury resale is here to stay-and those brands that choose not to participate risk missing out on a significant opportunity.

A thriving trade-fuelled by customer excitement

Overall, 75-80 percent of luxury consumers are still strictly new-product buyers. However, consumer behaviors and concerns are changing, pointing many toward pre-owned products. In the watch market, for example, by 2025 we expect that resale will comprise a full third of the total market. These patterns have been accelerated by the pandemic, by digitization, and by the so-called "generational headwind": younger buyers (Generation Z and Millennials) are significantly more willing than Generation X and older to purchase pre-owned products.

Around half the luxury resale trade currently consists of jewelry and watches, with handbags and shoes comprising just over a third; it is mainly oriented towards women's fashion. The market is situated largely in the European Union, followed by the US. Ten percent lies in China. While the trade is still largely offline, online platforms are growing very much faster. Indeed, specialized digital platforms for trading pre-used goods, with a 25-30 percent market share, are driving much of the sector's growth, with a predicted expansion of 20-30 percent per annum.

Buyers and sellers flock to these online marketplaces, attracted by the range of unique products and services offered: from pick-up, storage, and delivery to repair and refurbishment; from authentication to price-setting advice; and from high-end photography and copywriting to virtual shopping events. For these specialist services, platforms may add a commission of 20-40 percent on top of selling price.

Part of what attracts buyers is access to rare and exclusive products-a primary draw for 41 percent of respondents. A similar number wish to contribute to greater sustainability in the industry. Somewhat fewer, 35 percent, prioritize affordability: buying pre-owned helps them to save money, or to obtain particularly desirable products (Exhibit 1).

Nine in ten customers currently participating in the resale market are also buyers of new products, and three-quarters sell goods too. The numbers reveal a circular trade, with customers frequently selling items to free up space in their closet, to change their style, or as part of a pattern of getting rid of out-of-date items (Exhibit 2).

What gains flow to customers from brand involvement?

With this committed consumer base, it's no surprise that certain high-profile brands are dipping their toes in the luxury resale water: for instance, Gucci is partnering with TheRealReal to recycle / upcycle garments. Richemont have acquired UK-based watch specialist Watchfinder, thereby gaining new distribution channels and becoming a retailer of rival brands. Last but not least, Kering has invested in Vestiaire Collective, to enhance its customer experience and boost its sustainability efforts.

But do such arrangements give the consumers something special, beyond what they're already finding for themselves? Currently, customers are mostly unaware of luxury resale partnerships.

However, when they do become aware of brand participation, three-quarters perceive it as a good development, with consumer loyalty, and perception of brand desirability, generally maintained. Around half of current new-product buyers react positively, with a negative response from only five percent, if all other aspects of the customer experience remain the same (Exhibit 3).

The ability of a brand to sustain and engage in a secondary market reinforces a desirable aura of craftsmanship, durability and sustainability: four in ten buyers consider that brand participation will raise the market value of their own pre-owned products. Many also feel that luxury brands exert more control of their product this way, resulting in less counterfeiting, for example.

(Notably, however, there are cultural differences. In contrast to US or French consumers, Japanese buyers' perception of brand desirability, and their willingness to buy more brand items, was in fact markedly reduced when they became aware of brand involvement in the resale trade.)

Choices ahead for luxury brands

The pre-owned market is no passing fad but presents a real and lasting opportunity. For example, the vast majority of luxury OEM makers were initially hesitant to grant resale customers the same exclusive treatment as new-car buyers. In recent years, however, these companies have come to see that trade-ins present huge opportunities, both to enhance the customer experience and to target a new customer base. Buying a pre-owned luxury car now comes with premium service, including certification and guarantees, and offers of scarce, vintage products for loyal customers.

Other luxury brands are faced with the same significant decision: in or out? Those choosing not to take part in resale will have a smaller addressable market-while still seeing their goods traded on outside digital platforms.

For those that do step in, other considerations arise. Firstly, how does this serve customer needs? Brands might find ways to appeal to specific client segments. For discerning collectors of iconic pieces, brands could play a role in organizing the market more efficiently, or by offering sought-after items. For those interested in buying new products only, the trade-in experience could be improved. And for all buyers, of both new and pre-owned products, brands could provide superior authentication and guarantee services, with specialist insights and access.

Another concern for brands is how participation in resale will impact their own operations. Their decision will depend on acceptable risk, and their ability and willingness to take on the market by themselves-or with a specialist partner. Going in alone promises higher profits, while the risks and burdens of entering an unfamiliar sector are lowered with an experienced partner.

Once these questions are resolved, the revenue and profitability of the resale market will mostly be influenced by operating-model choices (direct versus outsourced operations, inventory and supply-chain options), by the breadth of services offered, and the average value of the resold products.

The luxury resale market holds great promise for both customers and brands. Leading the way, largely, are customers, who are generally eager for established brands to play a larger role. For brands, if they choose to participate, it is a way to expand their offerings, appeal to committed client segments, stay abreast of digital innovation, and reinforce their sustainability efforts-if they can find ways to add meaningful value to loyal customers' experience.

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Welcome to luxury fashion resale: Discerning customers beckon to brands

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Intrigued customers are breathing fresh life into the luxury apparel market, with a growing appreciation for pre-owned accessories and clothing. For most, brand involvement in resale is a plus: but can their enthusiasm bring the high-profile labels on board?

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The most popular Fashion & Clothing brands in the UK | Consumer | YouGov Ratings

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The most popular Fashion & Clothing brands in the UK | Consumer | YouGov Ratings

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The most popular Fashion & Clothing brands in the UK according to YouGov Ratings. Popularity is based on millions of responses from the British public and YouGov's innovative survey methodology.

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21 Essential TikTok Statistics You Need to Know in 2023

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Social media ads are an effective way to get your brand in front of more people. Ads help to generate awareness, can boost engagement, and are even great for increasing sales. TikTok allows brands to create a variety of ads as a way for them to reach their target audience. And considering the popularity of the platform, it's worth considering how TikTok can fit into your marketing strategy.

TikTok Users Are More Understanding and Open to Ads Than General Internet Users

According to the latest Statista report (2023), 38% of survey participants using TikTok are willing to tolerate advertising in exchange for free access to certain services, which is 4% more than the total number of adults surveyed. Almost 15% of TikTok users struggle to distinguish between advertising and other content.

However, in order for users to welcome these ads, marketers must build native-looking campaigns that align with the broader user experience.

Millennial TikTok Users Are 2.3X More Likely to Create a Post and Tag a Brand

TikTok shared that millennials on their platform are more likely to share UGC and tag a brand, while Gen Z TikTok users are 1.2x more likely than other platform users to DM a brand after buying a product.

The TikTok Ads With the Best Performance Have an Emotional Message

The key to any good ad is to get your audience to feel something.

TikTok has found that ads with an emotional message have the best performance overall. When you can pull at their heartstrings, they'll be more inclined to engage and take action. That's crucial if you want to get the most bang for your buck when investing in advertising.

63% of All Successful TikTok Ads Communicate Their Message Right Away

The reality is, we have short attention spans. So if your brand is planning to run ads on any platform, including TikTok, you need to hook them immediately. If you don't, you risk them losing interest and scrolling onto something else.

TikTok 63% of all successful ads get their point across right away. If you can secure their attention early on, they'll be more likely to watch your ad all the way through.

TikTok's Top-View Ads Are a Favorite Among its Users

TikTok offers a variety of options when it comes to ad creation. There are in-feed ads, brand takeover ads, and even branded hashtag ads. With so many options, it gives brands the ability to choose what will perform the best for them and their audience.

As it turns out, TikTok's top-view ads are favoured by users.

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21 Essential TikTok Statistics You Need to Know in 2023

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Thinking about making short-form video content part of your strategy? These TikTok statistics show why it's the platform to use.

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Brits are no longer embarrassed to buy items in charity shops to save vital cash

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Brits are no longer embarrassed to buy items in charity shops to save vital cash

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As finances are squeezed more and more people are turning to charity shops to buy all manner of items.

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Vinted: how sustainable is the king of second-hand fashion?

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Vinted: How Sustainable is the King of Second-Hand Fashion?

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Vinted: How Sustainable is the King of Second-Hand Fashion?

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Vinted: how sustainable is the king of second-hand fashion?

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The Lithuanian group has published a 164-page report with data on its CO2 footprint and on the role sustainability plays for its customers, shedding light on Vinted’s sustainability strategy, and on its limitations.

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12 Of The Best Second-Hand Sites To Shop Online

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12 Of The Best Second-Hand Sites To Shop Online

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12 Of The Best Second-Hand Sites To Shop Online

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There's no doubt that shopping second-hand has surged in popularity in recent years, as we all become more conscious about the environmental impact of our wardrobes. Plus, as the likes of Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Rihanna have shown, buying pre-loved fashion means you're likely to be the only person in the room to have that piece - making it extra special.

Luckily, a whole host of resale sites have popped up in recent years, making it easier than ever to make a more sustainable purchase. Below, see our pick of the best second-hand sites to shop online.

Hardly Ever Worn it

Founded in 2012, the idea for Hardly Ever Worn It (HEWI) came about when CEO Tatiana Wolter-Ferguson, her mum Sharon and sister Natalya realised that there were so many pieces in their wardrobe that they had hardly worn. From Chanel minidresses to Jacquemus bags, the website is full of gems that are waiting to find a new home.

Vestiaire Collective

Founded in 2009, Vestiaire Collective is Europe's biggest resale site for luxury fashion - with 25,000 pieces added to the platform every day. As there's no shortage of choice, search for your favourite brands or the exact piece you're looking for to avoid being overwhelmed.

Farfetch Pre-Owned

While a growing number of retailers are now integrating resale onto their sites, Farfetch has long been ahead of the game, launching its pre-owned section back in 2010. Fitting in seamlessly with the rest of its offering, the e-tailer allows you to shop second-hand while enjoying the same luxury experience it provides for those shopping brand new.

Depop

There's a reason that Depop is Gen Z's favourite resale site, with the app being full of Y2K gems. Whether you're looking for baby tees, North Face puffer jackets or Prada cheetah-print boots, the resale platform comes with the approval of Bella Hadid.

Reluxe

Launched by stylist Clare Richardson in February 2022, Reluxe provides a curated luxury offering, with many pieces being hand-picked from the wardrobes of fashion's most stylish women. Expect to find the likes of Phoebe Philo-era Céline, Prada and Balenciaga on the site, while the platform has also recently teamed up with Matchesfashion.com to create an exclusive edit.

Sellier Knightsbridge

Specialising in pre-loved designer bags, Sellier Knightsbridge is your go-to for accessories from top luxury brands, such as Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Hermès. The store has a team of experts to authenticate its pieces, making the resale process as smooth as possible.

Retold Vintage

For those with a more minimalist aesthetic, Retold Vintage is the resale site for you. Its collection spans Burberry trench coats and '90s Max Mara. Founder Clare Lewis curates weekly drops that are snapped up soon after they hit the website - make sure you subscribe to the Retold newsletter to avoid missing out.

Cudoni

Launched in 2015, Cudoni was created with the aim of making second-hand buying and selling as seamless as possible - with experts coming to your home to collect pieces that you're looking to part ways with. From Marni to Issey Miyake, the site offers a range of luxury pieces at a snip of the original retail price.

Lampoo

If you're searching for quiet luxury - think brands like The Row, Khaite and Nanushka - then it's worth trying Lampoo. With offices in both Milan and London, the site is perfect for those looking to build a capsule wardrobe, while avoiding buying brand-new pieces.

Rites

Founded by Sustainable Department Store's Meg O'Hara, Rites is a resale and rental platform designed to promote circular fashion. With high-end brands, such as Prada and Balenciaga, featuring on the site alongside contemporary labels, such as Aje, Stine Goya and Matteau, there's something to suit every style.

1stDibs

For those looking to snap up a piece of fashion history, 1stDibs is the site for you. Whether you're looking for a rare Jean Paul Gaultier dress or a Vivienne Westwood corset, the platform is particularly popular amongst vintage dealers and collectors.

The RealReal

While The RealReal may be based in the US, its vast selection of luxury pieces mean that it's well-worth trawling through, even from the UK. Just make sure you bear in mind any additional import taxes and custom duties that will need to be paid when buying from the site.

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12 Of The Best Second-Hand Sites To Shop Online

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A growing number of fashion resale sites has made shopping second-hand easier than ever. From Vestiaire Collective and Depop to Reluxe and Hardly Ever Worn It, see the best fashion resale sites to shop online in the UK.

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- Sustainability section
- Vintage section
- Focus Group with Gen Z’s
- Transcribe both interviews and focus group

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- Draft of Introduction
- Interview with Laura, owner of La La Vintage
- Methodology and Overview of research methods

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What are your shopping habits like? Do you buy mostly fast fashion, luxury or secondhand? and how often do you purchase clothing?

If you do shop secondhand, what are your reasons for doing so and what are your favourite methods (e.g. online, vintage shops, charity shops etc.)?

Did you ever have any misconceptions about secondhand fashion and has your opinion changed?

What influences you to buy fast fashion over secondhand fashion?

How could social media be used to encourage you or others to shop secondhand?

Have you ever heard of the Fashion Revolution? if so what do you know about it?

Do you think you could ever completely replace buying fast fashion with secondhand fashion?

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Why buying vintage clothes is 'the new luxury'

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Few followers of fashion will forget the moment Kate Moss arrived at a New York fashion week dinner, perfect in a pale yellow dress, worn off-the-shoulder, by 1950s French couturier Jean Dessès. That was 2003 and, for a couple of years, Moss wannabes rifled frantically through the rails of local second-hand stores, in the hope of finding something that would approximate Moss's air of louche glamour. But buying vintage is hard work and, by 2007, when Moss teamed up with Topshop to create clothes inspired by her favourite looks (including the Dessès dress), there was a sense of relief. Vintage was great and all that, we thought - but readymade was so much easier.

More like this:

- What does a 'life of luxury' mean today?

- Fashion photography's reluctant star

- Why we need soft textures right now

Moss herself was simply continuing a tradition among hip cultural influencers. "In the 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent sent models down the runway in rehashes of his mother's '40s evening gowns; Bryan Ferry and Roxy Music suited up in Humphrey Bogart drag and retro GI gear, and kids recreated those looks with flea-market finds," expert Alex Fury wrote in the Financial Times. "Then again, so did people like Paloma Picasso and Loulou de la Falaise, buying vintage clothes for authenticity and validity - the real deal, not a pale imitation." Fast forward to the 2020s and vintage is back again - and this time, arguably, it's back for good.

"When Kate Moss was buying things at flea markets and matching them with super expensive pieces, it felt like the conversation was more naive, more related to the old paradigms of what fashion was - very trend-based, very season-based, very throwaway," muses Ivan Dauriz, of online store Tug. "Now, we're seeing a massive change. People will always want to have new looks but they're becoming more and more aware of the impact of their choices on the environment, and that possibly the best thing all of us can do in this climate crisis is limit the resources we take out of the planet. Vintage speaks to what's happening right now."

And the world is speaking back. A recent report from second-hand clothes sales platform ThredUp estimated that the total resale market is expected to more than double in value from $24bn (£18bn) to $51bn (£39bn) by 2023, accounting for 10% of the retail market. Depop, a social app targeting Millennial and Gen Z shoppers, now has 13 million users and revenue growth of 100% year-on-year for the past few years, since its launch in 2011. On average, Depop users - 90% under the age of 26 - collectively follow and message each other 85 million times each month. More than 'back for good', vintage looks set to become the new norm.

What's better is that it's going back to its roots, to the vintage market stalls where true aficionados have been ruggedly plying their trade through the vicissitudes of fashion. When British brand Connolly wanted to do something different during lockdown, they turned to fashion stylist, vintage consultant and Portobello stallholder Frank Akinsete to curate and upcycle eight pieces from the brand's previous collections. The resulting dip-dyed, hand-block printed capsule collection, named after Akinsete's blue Burmese cat Rocky and photographed on fellow stallholders, was achingly cool and utterly of its time - and beyond.

Akinsete remembers vintage's 1990s resurgence, when he and business partner Govella Pangidzwa, opened Souled Out, a small shop on Portobello Green. "The timing was perfect. Portobello was like East London now, super hip. Kate Moss and Helena Christensen, Bj ö rk and Kylie, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana: they all came in." What's different today? "It's more than just trendy, it's a lifestyle - [the popularity of vintage] has come through education and it's a response to fast fashion - and that's good." Currently, Akinsete is working with auction house Bonhams as it prepares its Cool Britannia exhibition for next spring, for which he'll be curating a section on vintage fashion.

Waking up

This added element of craft and regeneration, of upcycling and repair offers another contemporary dimension to Vintage 2.0. Central Saint Martins student Boy Kloves, who has already collaborated with Converse and dressed the band Haim for V Magazine (and whose way with Hawaiian shirts and vintage napkins will take your breath away) is one of a cohort of designers wholly open to its possibilities. "There's a rise in young people looking at things that already exist, that are beautiful, that are usable, not only to take inspiration from - but also to use as fabrics for creation," he says.

"Global warming is a crisis facing our generation; it's a new thing you have to consider as a young person," he continues. "Designers and makers are very much problem solvers in their own right. Vintage and upcycling as a method are ways to address the problem in interesting ways." It is this embedding - of concern for the climate crisis, of the perception of vintage as the logical retort to fast fashion and of upcycling and repair as alternative forms of making - that is the surest sign that vintage has real traction. A generation that has everything to gain and nothing to lose by embracing sustainable practices is waking up, and they mean business.

Even TikTok, the social media platform dominated by dance challenges, is on board - via the talents of Tommy Groenendijk and 22-year-old Jordan Deery, aka Vintage Stock Reserve (VSR). The Florida-based students keep their 1.7 million followers happy with lively upcycling workshops. "Once you start finding heat at the thrift shop, it quickly turns into an ever-growing addiction. It's like wearing archived collectibles; each piece has history behind it," Groenendijk told Vogue.com. Alongside patchwork denim jackets and tie-dyed tees, the pair discuss the environmental footprint of clothing, demonstrating that sometimes it's not the message, but the way it's delivered that can have maximum impact.

It's a viewpoint that resonates with Fashion East alumnus Caitlin Price who teamed up with her sister, vintage buyer Emily Price, last year to launch 3am Eternal, a collection of upcycled evening wear. "As much as everyone likes to go shopping, when you consider the amount of waste that is created, there has to be an endpoint to fast fashion," says Caitlin. "There's just so much out there. People really respond to the fact we use existing designer pieces they love, brands they love, and that we give it our own spin. It's accessible, it's playful but there is also a lot of care and attention. They're very much one-on-one bespoke. They're pieces we want people to be inspired by."

It's certainly a different way of making clothes. "It's harder," laughs Kloves. "You have these irregularities, times when you don't know exactly how it's going to turn out. It's an added element to think about but it's more interesting. It has its own life and you give it a new life and put your own stamp onto it." Dauriz agrees: "We have a studio in Genoa where we do repair and customisation. But sometimes, when it's not possible to do a minor change, it might be worth upcycling totally. Because our aim is to completely minimise waste, we create completely new garments from old garments we cannot sell - instead of throwing them away."

All this talk of recycling and upcycling and using old clothes in new ways: fast fashion brands must be shaking in their shoes because the whiff of rebellion is very definitely in the air. New York-based creative director Brynn Hemingway has collaborated with many brands; earlier this year, she launched Display Copy, a new fashion platform dedicated to showcasing and elevating upcycled and vintage fashion. "[Vintage] is Gen Z's creative expression to find things outside the traditional fashion system and make it their own," she says. "I was watching the documentary River Blue and it's heartbreaking. And every time they flashed to a Gap window, my campaign was there. I can't change the world but I can change the conversation with my community. Display Copy came out of that personal struggle."

"My hope is that vintage becomes the new luxury and thrift becomes the new streetwear. For the sake of the planet, it has to be that way," she continues. "Fashion is how we signal our intent," adds former Vogue.com editor-in-chief and founder of Designer Jumble Abigail Chisman. "[By buying vintage], you display your understanding of the current political climate. And through craft, we're saying that recycling isn't enough. We need not to be throwing things away. And where once mending represented necessity, now it represents skills. Right now, there's a really meaningful need for change. It's not even a fashion thing. It's a must."

Released from the hegemony of trends and the endless march of the high street, buying clothes becomes a source of joy and real creativity, she adds. "I don't get people coming into my shop and saying, 'I gather plaid is in'. Now, people come in and see what they like. It's liberating. A client, a girl of 20, came in and bought herself the most beautiful pair of Claude Montana butter soft leather culottes. And her mum said: 'Your friends aren't going to get those.' And she turned around and said: 'And?' That's where the magic happens. We're seeing a return to individuality."

All of this comes as no surprise for Herbie Mensah, a longtime Portobello stallholder like Frank Akinsete and a dab hand at up-cycling vintage. He too has high-profile names nipping across his doorstep, looking for inspiration. "I go to a lot of charity shops and it's mad. There's stuff from ASOS, Primark and a lot of it is hardly worn. I'm thinking, why do people buy stuff for the sake of buying it and then simply discard it? I rarely buy new and now, during lockdown, I have a whole new clientele - because people want to save money, and find something well made and original. And a lot more of the younger generation are coming in too. What do I think about that? Fair play to them."

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Why buying vintage clothes is 'the new luxury'

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For Gen Z, upcycled, reclaimed fashion is opening up a new sense of individuality and self-expression, while helping to save the planet, writes Bel Jacobs.

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Gen Z is bringing back the Tumblr Twee aesthetic. Laura Hampson asks why we’re giving CPR to a trend less than a decade old

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Cost of living: Second-hand shopping in vogue as prices rise

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"It's better for the environment and better for your pocket."

Charity shops have reported a surge in customers as the cost of living crisis combines with a "shift in attitude" towards second-hand clothes.

Lauren Knapman regularly shops in charity stores and posts about what she finds online.

The 28-year old from Newport said it was partly down to cost, but also because she wants to live sustainably.

"There's definitely been a stigma around buying second-hand in the past," she said.

"Maybe people have been embarrassed by it and thought others would think they're struggling.

"But I just think mindsets are changing - obviously it does save you a lot of money but also stops things ending up in landfill."

Lauren got married in April and scoured charity shops for wine glasses, candlesticks and cake stands.

"Everything already exists - as long as you can find it there's no need to buy new," she said.

"We sold all the stuff straight after too so it was great not to have it all lying around."

Fellow charity shop enthusiast Kelly Allen, 40, from Llantrisant in Rhondda Cynon Taf, writes and blogs about sustainable fashion.

"It's a bit like a treasure trove isn't it when you go into a charity shop - you can find little hidden gems," she said.

"On the one hand you've got people who are struggling at the moment so it makes sense to go to those places, but it's also becoming a bit of a fashionable thing to do."

But she has noticed prices going up, especially in some parts of Cardiff, meaning if "you truly rely on charity shops to clothe your family, I think that's a bit of a worry".

Recent months have seen a record 14% increase in turnover for Cancer Research UK's network of 600 charity shops.

At its Cardiff superstore - one of Wales' biggest second-hand shops - the number of customers coming through the doors is up 10% compared with the same period last year.

Cancer Research UK's director of trading Julie Byard said people were "choosing to shop in a way that makes their money go further".

While many are "driven by necessity" towards the shop's second-hand clothes, all of which are below £5, market research indicated people were now consciously choosing pre-owned items, she said.

The charity's shops save about 25,000 tonnes of textile going into landfill every year, she added.

But donations in Wales were down 10% during the past three months, "potentially" another symptom of the cost of living crisis.

At The Climate Shop in Lampeter, Ceredigion, second-hand clothes and other goods are priced in trees rather than pounds as the charity funds tree-planting efforts in Kenya.

The town's deputy mayor Rhys Jones, who volunteers in the shop, said he was seeing "more and more people coming in finding it very difficult to make ends meet".

"People have got to make sacrifices but they've also found there's nothing wrong with wearing second-hand clothes."

The rise in customers could also be a legacy of the pandemic, he claimed as "people had to shop locally and have now changed their way of buying things".

"They're saying 'right what can I do to help my local community but also to help the planet'."

Fellow volunteer Sara Avila said she had noticed "an awful lot of people" asking for curtains to pin up against doors as draught excluders and "help keep the heat in" this winter.

"They're terrified they are going to freeze and I mean curtains are horrendously expensive to buy new, whereas here they're a few pounds," she said.

Sporting a dress made for her by a friend out of an old T-shirt and bed sheet, fashion blogger Kelly Allen added that the squeeze on household budgets could also be leading to a return to "fixing and reworking" clothes.

"When it gets to the point where they can't wear it anymore, use it as rags for cleaning," she said.

Phoebe Brown, director of Repair Cafe Wales, said the organisation had seen "a real increase in engagement" during the past year.

It runs free events where people can bring in broken bikes and electrical items and damaged clothes to be mended for free.

She agreed the cost-of-living crisis could be leading to the sorts of behavioural changes that climate activists have long called for.

"It's a shame that it's economic hardship that's forcing people down those routes of behaviour change, but it is [happening]," she said.

"It's the change that we really need to see and we hope that will stick around and become embedded".

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Cost of living: Second-hand shopping in vogue as prices rise

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"It's better for the environment and better for your pocket." Charity shops have reported a surge in customers as the cost of living crisis combines with a "shift in attitude" towards second-hand clothes. Lauren Knapman regularly shops in charity stores and posts about what she finds online.

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One thing is top of mind for many young Brits, and it's not the royal family

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LONDON - Queen Elizabeth II's death and funeral have dominated news headlines for nearly two weeks, thanks in large part to Britain's lengthy national mourning period.

Some of the people lining up to visit the queen's casket and staking out spots along the funeral route described the moment as offering a much-needed dose of community and positivity amidst challenges like COVID and the war in Ukraine.

But it's also been a source of frustration for people who say the extent of the focus and coverage is distracting from other important subjects - like, for example, the hurricane that knocked power out across Puerto Rico on the day of the queen's funeral.

Closer to home: The queen died just two days after appointing Liz Truss the newest prime minister of the United Kingdom, which is facing economic and energy crises. King Charles' decision to make Monday a bank holiday drew backlash from Britons over the closure of food banks and hospital services. And, as several young Londoners told NPR, the elaborate funeral proceedings are costing a lot of money at a time when many ordinary people are struggling to make ends meet.

NPR interviewed nearly a dozen people throughout London about what else has been on their minds throughout the mourning period and, now that the funeral is over, what they hope to see next. Nearly everyone had the same primary concern: the economy, particularly the decline in disposable income known as the cost of living crisis.

"How am I just going to live?" asked 22-year-old Atiya Chowdhury, a recent master's graduate who spoke with NPR over the weekend. "I feel like a baby that's come out of an egg and the sun is too bright, and that sun is the cost of living."

Prices are high and morale seems low

Britain's cost of living crisis began in late 2021, spurred by high inflation and exacerbated over the last year by tax increases and rocketing energy prices, according to the think tank Institute for Government. Wage growth hasn't been able to keep pace with record inflation, and the tax increases announced last year were the largest (as a share of national income) since the early 1990s - considerably weakening the purchasing power of people across the U.K.

The Consumer Price Index (which measures the average change in prices paid by consumers over a period of time for a basket of household goods) rose by 8.6% in the 12-month period leading up to August. That's according to the U.K.'s Office for National Statistics, which says the rising cost of electricity, gas, motor fuels and food is to blame.

Gas is getting more expensive for a number of reasons, including supply shortages and disruptions caused by Russia's war in Ukraine. Most Brits rely on it to generate electricity and heat their homes, and are already worried about the cold months ahead.

The British government has taken some steps to try to address the crisis, like giving all U.K. households a discount on energy bills as of October, and one-off subsidies to some 6 million people on disability payments beginning Tuesday.

But there's concern that it's not doing enough to help those who need it. After Truss announced last week that she plans to implement an energy price freeze and tax cuts, the think tank Resolution Foundation released a report saying her strategy would give the richest tenth of households, on average, twice as much financial support as the poorest tenth.

Young people in London told NPR that as much as they would like the government to take stronger action, they aren't optimistic given the Conservative Party's track record.

"I can't see them being very welfare-based and giving handouts, but that's what they have to do to allow people to live," said 20-year-old Sara Moghal while waiting at Victoria Station for her train back to university. "Otherwise there will be dramatic changes in people's lifestyles, which I don't think is very good for the country."

While she's hopeful that her family will fare OK, she's worried about what the crisis will mean for the public as a whole, especially come winter.

"No matter how much income you have, it's really going to impact everyone," she adds.

The crisis is affecting people differently

Thirty-year-old Dorian Mills, an operations manager for a cocktail company, says the cost of living is becoming unreasonable - his rent increased again this month, and he didn't get the raise he was hoping for.

"If I just spend my money on food and rent I'm all right," he says, adding that he's lucky because as part of his housing arrangement (called a guardianship scheme) he only pays rent, not utilities.

Still, even visiting his parents in Brighton - some 70 miles away on the coast - as often as he'd like to can be a financial and logistical challenge. Mills says train tickets can go for some 40 to 50 pounds ($45-60).

"It doesn't make sense when you can get a flight with EasyJet or Ryanair to Spain or Málaga for about 40, 50 quid," Mills adds. "It costs pretty much the same to get from here to Brighton as it does from here to Spain."

Mills doesn't believe the government is the solution, since he thinks the Conservative Party - which has governed for over a decade - has failed to invest in infrastructure and help anyone other than the wealthy. What would he like to see going forward?

"Caps on rent, caps on energy, caps on food, caps on everything," he says.

Mills thinks nationalizing energy and railroads could be a solution, or at least one worth trying. More and more, people are realizing that the current system needs to change, he adds.

"I'm all for capitalism and stuff if you are selling the right way," he says. "I think people should be able to make their money ... but not when it's just all the money going to a couple of people."

Bunmie Moj, 33, says the cost of living is one of her top concerns. She runs a custom printing company and needs to make sure the business stays afloat so she doesn't have to worry too much in the winter.

But, like several other people NPR spoke with, she's also trying not to worry too much.

"I just take every day as it comes," she says. "But I know other people, it's affecting them a lot more ... A lot of their bills are going up and there's a lot of concern about how they're going to pay it."

Some people have different perspectives. Frida Cakmak shared hers from behind the counter of the ice cream truck where she works, parked in the tourist destination of Piccadilly Circus. She moved to London eight months ago from Istanbul, where she used to work as a manager in a law office.

Cakmak had long thought about leaving Turkey because of the state of its economy, particularly the weak lira. She says she only plans to go back as a visitor.

"I'm here and I'm so happy living in London, really," she says. "The social life is better, the working life is better and, of course, the money is really, really good here."

The economy is just one of Britain's problems

Some people told NPR about other issues on their minds, including climate change and public safety. Several said that taken together, all of the problems facing the country can be discouraging to look at head-on.

"I think there's so many political challenges that are going on with the war in Ukraine, energy prices, domestic issues," said Maddie Baker, another recent graduate. "I think all of that coming together, it makes quite a bleak picture for a young person ... It's kind of hard to be hopeful at the moment with stuff like that."

Moghal, the university student, isn't planning to stay in the U.K. for long. She has her sights on Dubai.

"I just think it's quite depressing at the moment," she says, adding that Britain seems to be dealing with economic issues that its European neighbors have handled better. "I turn on the news and all that's there is just sad stories and depressing news all the time."

As Mills sees it, there's a lot of discontent in the country but not a lot of activism. He says people don't protest anymore, and "it's almost like we're sitting ducks."

"We're very good at being in sort of minorities and sort of pushing for individual things," he elaborates. "But when it comes to actually coming together fully, we're rubbish."

NPR spoke with Mills on Tuesday, just after crowds lined streets and parks for days straight in order to pay tribute to the late queen. People came together during those days, and many said the highlight of their experience was the shared community.

How does he reconcile that? "Mass delusion," he laughs, but says in all seriousness that it was nice that people could come together to mourn - regardless of their personal feelings about different parts of the queen's legacy. As for his own feelings, he says, he can't quite figure out why the royal family is so important to the country.

"They go on about ... stability, stability, stability," he says. "For who? What's it for?"

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One thing is top of mind for many young Brits, and it's not the royal family

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While all eyes were focused on England in the aftermath of Queen Elizabeth II's death, many young people in London have other issues on their minds. For most, the biggest one is the economy.

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While gaining significant popularity over the last few decades, vintage clothing has been around for centuries.

The term "vintage" is derived from the French word "vintage," meaning "past its time." The phrase was first used in the 1920s to describe old-fashioned items that were considered a throwback to an earlier era. However, it wasn't until the 1940s that "vintage" became more and more popular as people began to collect and covet these historic pieces.

Corsets and top hats aside, the vintage fashion we've come to know and love only truly emerged in the 1960s. Woodstock and The Kennedy's meant that the hippie lifestyle was prevalent at the time and was positioned as anti-consumerist. People chose to express this by wearing a few items of high-quality clothing instead of filling their closets with fast fashion. This style was seen as a symbol of rebellion against society's norms and conformity which led to significant growth in the industry.

Like most forms of expression and creativity, the history of vintage fashion intertwines with the past's social and cultural changes. It's not just about looking good - it's about being a part of something bigger.

Here, we will explore everything you need to know about the history of vintage fashion by taking a closer look at the following topics:

How old is vintage clothing?

What makes clothes vintage?

Examples of popular vintage pieces by era

Modern vintage fashion style

Let's dive in!

How Old Is Vintage Clothing?

While the vintage fashion trend continues to burn bright, there's still a lot of confusion around what is considered a vintage piece. So, how old does clothing have to be to be deemed as vintage clothing?

Well, for an object to be considered a legitimate vintage item, it has to be at least 20 years old. So, anything from the 20's, 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s and 2000s. However, if a vintage garment is more than 100 years old - this is considered antique, not vintage.

What Makes Clothes Vintage?

A garment's age is not the only factor for it to be classified as a vintage piece. It also must reflect the styles and trends of the era they represent.

However, it's important to remember that the term vintage has a rather fluid definition. Every decade will bring new vintage items, which eventually become antique when enough time has passed.

Examples of Popular Vintage Pieces by Era

The 1920s: Long-beaded necklaces and flapper dresses

The 1930s: Puffed sleeves, bolero jackets, fedoras, slingbacks and peep-toe shoes

The 1940s: Wool plaid skirts, brooches and platform shoes

The 1950s: Full skirts, shirtwaist dresses and strings of pearls

The 1960s: Flowing tops, bell-bottom jeans and anything hippie or bohemian styled

The 1970s: Boho-chic, thigh-high boots and platforms

The 1980s: 80's sweaters and blazers feature prominent shoulder pads, gold chains and stilettos

The 1990s: Flannel shirts, plaid prints, oversized sweaters and chokers

Modern Vintage Fashion Style

However, wearing vintage clothes is still possible even with limited resources. The modern vintage fashion style is rapidly growing within the clothing industry. It is a design style that uses clothing and materials of the past and mixes them with modern pieces or vice versa.

In modern vintage style, the look often involves bold prints, 90s vintage shirts and high-waisted bottoms. It's about merging the old with the new and breathing life into fashions of yesteryear. Many high-profile fashionistas find that perfect balance between mixing modern and vintage pieces.

Why Is Vintage Clothing So Popular?

Vintage clothing is popular for a number of reasons. The fact that it was produced at least 20 years ago means that there are likely not many people having the same garment; it gives you the chance to stand out from the crowd. Not for no reason do people seek out such clothing! Overall, the quality of materials used, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is unmatched by modern clothing producers. Nowadays, to cut costs, clothes are made of cheaper quality fabric and many can't last a couple of washes. Compare this to vintage clothing which was specially designed to be durable and last a lifetime. Finally, there is more awareness than ever before about how our choices affect our environment. A big draw of vintage fashion is that the environmentally friendly boxed is ticked! Whatever the reason, there's no denying that vintage is back in mainstream fashion!

Find Authentic Vintage Pieces at LA Vintage

At LA Vintage, we are a wholesale supplier of vintage clothing based in Los Angeles. As a business, high quality vintage clothing and sustainability are at the heart of what we do. We believe in the importance of sustainability and emphasize the "Three R's" (reduce, reuse and recycle) to minimize our carbon footprint. Every year, our team sorts through millions of pounds of clothes and shoes, enabling us to provide unique and high-quality vintage pieces in bulk to retailers, designers, and stylists.

Our selection includes clothing, bags and accessories from the 1940s to the 2000s, all at wholesale prices! Have a look at our vintage collections online or book a virtual shopping appointment today.

Want to learn more about the history of vintage fashion? Read our blog post, "Fashion History - A Tribute To 1940s Women's Vintage Fashion Trends" here.

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While gaining significant popularity over the last few decades, vintage clothing has been around for centuries. The term "vintage" is derived from the French word "vintage," meaning "past its time." The phrase was first used in the 1920s to describe old-fashioned items that were considered a throwback to an earlier era.

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The Vintage Revolution Is Coming—Here’s What You Need to Know

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The Vintage Revolution Is Coming—Here’s What You Need to Know

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Vintage fashion is making waves in an industry struggling to reconcile its identity amid a pandemic world. Here’s what you need to know.

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Charity 'supermarket' announces second location after London success

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The charity department store pop-up is set to open at a second location after its first one raised £300,000 in six weeks.

Charity Super.Mkt announced its second pop-up will open on 24 March at the Oracle in Reading, following its "phenomenal success" at Brent Cross Shopping Centre in north London.

Founded by fashion designer Wayne Hemingway and Maria Chenoweth, chief executive of clothing charity Traid, Charity Super.Mkt brought together 10 charities in the first department store made up entirely of charity shops.

During the 41 days it was open, the Brent Cross Charity Super.Mkt sold over 40,000 second-hand items to more than 26,000 customers.

The busiest day raised £20,000 for participating charities, while figures show the projected turnover for the whole month was achieved in four days.

The creators of the concept said they now hoped Reading's 23,000-strong student population would make the project a success outside London, too.

Contributing charities include Age UK, Havens Hospice, Marie Curie, Blue Cross, Cats Protection, Shaw Trust, Shelter, Sue Ryder and Traid.

The new pop-up will be staffed partly by volunteers and will be open until 30 April.

Customers will also be encouraged to donate clothing items in store.

Hemingway said: "Charity Super.Mkt surpassed all expectations at Brent Cross and now we are going to prove that the concept works nationwide.

"Next stop is The Oracle, Reading, where we have gathered a revolving cohort of national, local and regional charities who have all been squirrelling away great second-hand pieces."

Chenoweth said: "My career and ambition has always been to promote second-hand fashion as the most fun and impactful way to dress ourselves.

"The creation of Charity Super.Mkt has brought charity retailers into mainstream retail, gaining locations that would have otherwise been inaccessible."

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Charity 'supermarket' announces second location after London success

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The initiative, which collects at least 10 organisations in one place, raised £300,000 at Brent Cross Shopping Centre

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'I want to take the stigma out of second-hand'

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Vintage, charity, thrift, "pre-loved"... There exist many different words for second-hand clothes. Most are an expression of one's generation. In the 1980s, people would go "charity shopping". Gen Z prefers to Depop which, like Google, has become a consumer verb. Those inclined to make their consumer habits more aspirational talk of "vintage" shopping. At the end of the day, it's all stuff that someone else doesn't want.

With the digitalisation of the customer experience, however, the market for resale has become a major preoccupation. Last year, the FT reported that one quarter of global shoppers bought a used item in 2019, and a study commissioned by the resale brand ThredUP predicted that the total second-hand market would double in size to $77bn by 2025. Recent research undertaken by Leather UK, the trade association for the UK leather industry, found that almost half of UK adults think about the potential impact on the planet when it comes to buying clothes, and 51 per cent "still own and frequently wear an item of clothing that's a decade old or more." With so much commercial potential, and the thrumming demand for more sustainable consumer choices, resale has gone from being a niche interest to something more mainstream.

"I think the interest is simply the strange, inexplicable thing of the fashion outlook changing," says Bay Garnett, a stylist and senior fashion adviser at Oxfam since 2016. "Of course there are huge factors involved, such as climate change. But we knew about the harm fashion did to the planet years ago and second-hand still wasn't seen as cool. The rise in resale couldn't have happened without the shift in the way people perceive fashion and its relentless cycles. It's as much 'new' falling out of fashion as it is second-hand being in."

This week, Reluxe became the latest luxury resale brand to enter the market. It's the brainchild of Clare Richardson, the English-born fashion stylist and consultant who has contributed to Vogue, WSJ and M Le Magazine du Monde among other titles, as well as overseeing the creative campaigns of more than a dozen fashion brands. Why especially would you want to raid her closet? Well, for starters, she's really very chic.

"The starting point for Reluxe is obviously my love of fashion, which is why I've been a stylist for x number of years," says Richardson, a lithe, blonde fortysomething who recalls a '70s-era Joni Mitchell. She is showing me around a mock-up of what will be her online store - tidy rails of vintage tailoring, Chanel jackets, prestige accessories and pre-worn leathers mixed in with archive pieces and dresses by newer brands. Now based in London, after living for nine years in New York where she has a house in Woodstock, Richardson will launch Reluxe in London and, while she can "ship anywhere", for the time being her focus will be the UK and the US.

In many ways, Reluxe is less a pivot than an extension: stylists are expert thrifters by career. Who hasn't lusted after some choice accessory or perfectly weathered shirting when looking at a fashion shoot only to discover that the cherished item is in fact the "stylist's own". Knowing where to source a cache of vintage Levi's or "old" Celine has always been the stylist's mandate, and the current appetite for pre-worn - combined with a habit of mentally cataloguing catwalks - means Richardson's skills have come of age. The other spur for Reluxe was the environmental conversation around fashion. "Being behind the scenes, seeing the waste with samples, fabric, new fabrics, endless product, and being on shoots and honestly seeing the waste there, I think my conscience was starting to keep me up at night," she says.

Sustainable, modern and cost-effective though second-hand may seem, Richardson admits that she has faced some resistance to the image around resale. "Many of my friends would never look at it," she says, "much less consider buying archive pieces or factory deadstock from a brand." Furthermore, too many resale sites, she argues, are "faceless" and overwhelming. "I was in New York when sites such as The RealReal came up, and I loved them but I found it knackering. I'd be scrolling for hours staring at 500 pairs of black trousers and thinking I couldn't find anything I want."

My conscience was starting to keep me up at night

With Reluxe, Richardson has tried to build a more accessible, aspirational environment that will chime with the clients of more familiar e-com brands. There is glossy editorial by fashion photographers, and interviews with supermodels showing clients how to style the clothes. Amber Valletta is seen wearing the iconic Chloé banana top (from its SS04 collection), and there are interviews with ecologist and model Zinnia Kumar and fashion designer Bella Freud.

Richardson's USP is in the brand's curated edit. Reluxe will launch with a selection of around 1,000 pieces, priced from £50 to £6,500. "But it's not just about the Chloé banana top or Prada lipstick-print skirt. It is those pieces - and I want those pieces because I adore those pieces - but then there is another shopper who wants to wear the Frame blue shirt or a pair of Levi's. There is a real mix in there; it was always really important that Reluxe sells some everyday items. So it's not too niche or too elite."

Recommended

Neither is she interested in selling only pristine selections. "We do have brand-new products, like that Saint Laurent" - she gestures towards a handbag - "and that Chanel" - she waves towards some shoes. "But we also have worn products. Someone sent me a pair of Balenciaga boots, and they are a bit bashed but they're so good. I was like, we're not scared of that." Clients can either choose the pieces they want to list or there's a concierge service where the Reluxe team helps curate the sale. Either way, "we photograph it, we authenticate it, we price it," says Richardson. "We sell it and ship it. We do all of it."

Such ambitions can be hugely taxing for a startup. There are risks of selling out of all inventory. Or of being completely deluged by the stuff. Currently being backed by private investment, Richardson will be expected to quickly scale the business, a challenge that faces any startup. "The pressure to deliver, find investment and make the returns can be overwhelming at the start," says Rachel Reavley, a board adviser for another luxury resale site, HEWI ("hardly ever worn it"), which has been in business for a decade and has sold items with values of £35,000. She cautions that meeting customer expectations, retaining clients, understanding the market and sorting out the pricing is a challenge that many startups fail to realise. That said, Reavley welcomes the emergence of new players on the market: "There are still comparatively few brands doing luxury resale, if you look across the spectrum," she continues. "And I think we should welcome everyone. The advent of a well-curated site opens up the conversation around the circular economy, and each new brand helps blow away the taboos around second-hand."

Richardson makes an excellent spokesperson for the vintage lifestyle, especially when she's wearing Alaïa dresses or, inevitably, Phoebe Philo-era Celine. Her own style would be described as timeless - a seductive blend of lean but fluid tailoring, sharp shirting and forever jeans. I wonder which pieces might send her own pulse racing, or from which she would hate to be parted. "For me, it's anything by Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga [he was creative director from 1997 to 2012]. Those collections were so inspiring to me at the time and continue to influence me," she says. "Every time I see a piece from any of his collections, I can't resist."

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'I want to take the stigma out of second-hand'

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With Reluxe, fashion stylist Clare Richardson is on a mission to make resale more chic

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eBay turns 20: Here are 20 things you may not know

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The auction website has grown from humble beginnings to a retail giant. Here are some of the highlights of its journey

eBay celebrates its 20th birthday on Thursday.

Here are 20 things you may not know about eBay:

It was originally called AuctionWeb

Computer programmer Pierre Omidyar established eBay in September 1995, but it wasn't called that. The site, started as a hobby by Omidyar, was given the much more straightforward AuctionWeb title.

It didn't change its name until 1997. This is what AuctionWeb looked like:

The first item sold was a broken laser pointer

And it cost $14.83. Astonished, Omidyar contacted the buyer to ensure he was aware it was unusable.

"I'm a collector of broken laser pointers," the buyer responded.

The name surfaced because EchoBay was taken

While the "e" prefix is associated with lots of internet activity - email, ecommerce and e-gaming - this wasn't the inspiration for eBay.

Omidyar's consulting group Echo Bay Technology Group tried to register echobay.com, but this was taken by a mining company Echo Bay Mines.

So it was shortened to eBay, and stuck.

If you'd invested £1,000 in eBay's IPO, you'd have more than £84,000 today

eBay listed in September 1998 at $18 a share. Despite a blip in the dotcom boom, it has been a corporate monster.

Shares have been split and investments spun off, but according to Bloomberg data taking this into account, they have risen by 84.5 times since its IPO.

Sales on eBay outstrip Cuba's GDP

Only 62 countries have a bigger economy than this. eBay's marketplace sales are bigger than Cuba, Libya and Croatia's economies.

The first item sold in the UK was a Scorpions CD

ebay.co.uk opened in 1999, four years after the website emerged in the US.

The first thing sold in the UK was a CD of "You & I" from German rock band Scorpions. It sold for £2.89.

Britons use eBay more than any other country

While eBay came to the UK late, it has been embraced enthusiastically by Brits.

Over 19 million Brits visit eBay every month, and buy more items per capita than anywhere else in the world.

The most expensive item sold on eBay was a yacht

In 2006, A 405-foot yacht featuring a helipad and movie theatre, designed by Frank Mulder, was sold on eBay for $168m,

This easily outstrips the second most-expensive, a $4.9m private jet.

Most items on eBay are Buy It Now

eBay started life as an auction website, and is still known as one, but most items sold on it use the "Buy It Now" feature.

According to 2013 research, only 15 per cent of items sold are auction only.

New species have been discovered on eBay

In 2006, a Montana-based seller put a sea urchin from the Pacific ocean on eBay, but it was of a type nobody had seen before.

The average user goes on eBay every four days

And spends over an hour on the site a month, three times more than the average of America's top 100 internet retailers, according to the company.

In the US, the average unique user comes to eBay seven times a month and spends 75 minutes per month.

800 million items are on eBay at any one time

eBay does not actually say how many items are sold on its website every year, but 800 million are on at any one time.

It also sold $20.1bn of items in the second quarter of the year. That's $2,556 (£1,670) a second.

In Q2 £1,670 changed hands on eBay every second

Prayers, magic potions and souls are banned

...as are human body parts, ivory and a person's virginity.

eBay is more than just eBay

As well as the online marketplace, the company also owns ticket exchange StubHub, listings site Gumtree, and a 25 per cent stake in Craigslist.

It owned Skype before selling it to Microsoft, and PayPal before spinning it off this year.

eBay has helped lonely hearts find love

A British man and woman were married in 2007 three months after meeting thanks to eBay.

A surprising number of places have been sold

The California town of Bridgeville, the original Hollywood sign and the Thatch Cay Virgin Island have all been sold on eBay.

Nasa once bought things on eBay

One of the best things about eBay is no matter how niche your taste, it's probably on sale there.

eBay has had physical stores

You couldn't take anything home though, it was more of a showroom. Visitors would scan a code on their smartphone, which would take them to an item's eBay listing.

James Blunt tried to sell his sister on eBay once

Really. Well sort of. The singer's sister had to get to Ireland for a funeral, and strikes put air travel out of the question.

Warren Buffett sells a lunch date on eBay every year

The billionaire businessman has raised millions for charity by auctioning off lunch with him for the last few years.

This year, the winning bid was $2.35m.

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eBay turns 20: Here are 20 things you may not know

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The auction website has grown from humble beginnings to a retail giant. Here are some of the highlights of its journey

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360k tonnes of reusable clothes are dumped in landfill each year

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As we launch the Wear Care Share project, stats show many items we bin could be recycled or reused by someone else

Author: Mick Coyle Published 21st Feb 2022
Last updated 23rd Feb 2022

"I'm not wearing that old thing!"

How many times do you say that when deciding what you're going to wear on a night out?

Ahead of Global Recycling Day in March, Greatest Hits Radio is taking a look at the stats and facts behind the UK's obsession with buying new clothes.

And we'll tell you how you can play your part in making sure your old items don't go to waste with our Wear Care Share project.

Fast fashion facts

The boom in fast fashion has meant high street and online stores now sell super cheap clothes with a designer look... but what's the real price we're having to pay?

One survey found young people consider an item to be "old" after it's been worn once or twice, and one in seven said it was a "fashion faux-pas" to be photographed in the same item twice.

Environmental impact

It's not just our pockets and wardrobes that are impacted by the explosion in disposable fashion, there are environmental factors too:

Fashion sits fourth in a list of the worst industries for environmental impact, behind transport, housing and food.

At the current rate, more than 25% of global carbon emissions will come from creating textiles by 2050.

35% of ocean plastic is thought to come from washing clothing like polyester.

Cotton production accounts for up to a quarter of insecticide use worldwide.

87% of the total input into the textile industry currently ends up in landfill or an incinerator.

A report from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation said $500bn was being wasted each year because we aren't reusing, recycling or repurposing clothes well enough.

Making a change

Clothing manufacturers are slowly starting to change the way they produce items, with many high street and online retailers developing "sustainable" fashion items that come from responsibly sourced locations.

LISTEN: The So You Want to Save the Planet Podcast investigates fashion's impact on climate change

While this is a step in the right direction, others accuse them of "greenwashing" which means to make a lot of noise about a small environmental policy, while actually continuing to pursue practices that are bad for the environment.

Consumers are changing too:

81% of recipients to one survey said if brands make it easier to reuse or recycle their products or packaging they'd be more likely to make a purchase.

16-34 year olds are 39% more likely to by a second hand item than some aged 35-64.

More than one in five people in Europe has used an online clothes rental platform.

Half of fashion buyers in Europe also thought manufacturers should do more to help consumers repair clothing when required.

National Recycling Manager Peter Page, from Textiles Recycling International, speaks to Senior Correspondent Mick Coyle about fast-fashion and clothes going into landfill

Wear Care Share

Ahead of Global Recycling Day Cash for Kids is working with Textile Recycling International to encourage textile recycling to launch Wear Care Share.

Our charity, which raises money for disadvantaged children, is looking to recycle textiles and clothing that might have ended up going into landfill.

For every tonne collected Cash for Kids will receive £400 to help us continue supporting children in our community who need it.

Schools, businesses and organisations can sign up now as a drop-off point

75% of donated items will be reused.

22% will be recycled into things like insulation and underlay.

The remaining 3% is turned into fuel which can be used to generate energy.

To find out more go to the Wear Care Share page on greatesthitsradio.co.uk
Hear all the latest news from across the UK on the hour, every hour, on Greatest Hits Radio on DAB, at greatesthitsradio.co.uk, and on the Greatest Hits Radio app.

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360k tonnes of reusable clothes are dumped in landfill each year

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Cash for Kids looks at the environmental impact of fast fashion at the launch of Wear Care Share for Global Recycling Day

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What is fast fashion and how is it damaging the planet?

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Our addiction to new clothes is bad for the environment with the fashion industry producing 10 percent of global CO2 emissions. Here are five practical ways you can be both stylish and sustainable.

Our love of new clothes and our thirst for the latest fashions comes at a cost to the planet. As the need to address climate change becomes ever more urgent, we need to learn about the impact our clothes have on the environment and how we can cut the carbon from our closets.

It may surprise you to learn that the fashion industry produces about  10 percent of annual global carbon emissions, which is more than all maritime shipping and international flights combined. What's more, fashion's emissions of harmful greenhouse gases are  projected to grow by more than 50 percent by 2030.

The fashion sector (including cotton farming) also uses about 93 billion cubic meters of water annually, representing 4 percent of all global freshwater withdrawal. In fact, just to manufacture a single pair of jeans requires a staggering 3,781 liters of water. And every second of the day, the equivalent of a  garbage truck full of textiles  is burned or added to landfill, while textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of water globally.

And the main culprit is fast fashion.

Fast fashion is a term used to describe the clothing industry's model of mass-producing clothes at low cost with high-speed turnaround times to replicate the latest streetwear and fashion trends as they appear in real-time on catwalks or on our social media feeds. Fashion trends are no longer seasonal, the latest desirable styles can be created and then appear in retail or online stores on a weekly basis.

This has encouraged the over consumption of clothing over the past two decades and driven a perception that clothes are disposable items rather than durable products.

But fast fashion is ultimately driven by us - the consumers. For a start, fast fashion is growing as people buy more clothes more frequently. An  estimated 50 billion new garments were made in 2000; 20 years later and this figure has doubled to 100 billion. The  average person today buys 60 percent more clothes  than they did at the turn of the century and yet we keep them for roughly half as long.

Our desire for affordable, mass-produced clothing has also incentivized the fashion industry to become increasingly globalized, which creates huge additional carbon emissions as clothing is transported across the world to meet consumers' next day demands by rail, road, sea and air.

"Most people don't realize that those items in their wardrobe create about 10 percent of global carbon emissions and cause other environmental damage," says Linda Freiner, Group Head of Sustainability at Zurich Insurance Group. "We need to raise awareness of the carbon in our closets, and, through education and industry measures, ensure sustainable fashion - rather than fast fashion - becomes the toast of our catwalks."

So, what can be done to turn this fast-moving and seemingly throwaway sector of the economy into the "sustainable fashion" industry we need for a net-zero future? Here are five practical ways to help turn your closet green:
1. New and sustainable textiles
You might not immediately associate clothes with cutting-edge technology, but the development of innovative materials will be a key step in making fashion more environmentally friendly. The main aim of these next-generation textiles is to increase the durability and longevity of clothes, or to allow the materials from which clothes are made to be more easily recycled into other products.

Technology also comes into play when making fashion products out of recycled materials. For example, sports shoes are now being manufactured using recycled ocean plastic, while fashion brand RubyMoon creates swimwear from used fishing nets - and in doing so claims to have reduced its carbon footprint by 42 percent.

Switching to sustainable fabrics will also help. The Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 (SCAP) states switching to sustainable cotton - certified by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Organic Cotton and Cotton Made in Africa - will improve the material's water footprint and reduce carbon emissions associated with clothing.

We need to change our clothes shopping habits.

2. Buy second-hand

The simplest way to lower your fashion collection's carbon footprint is to contribute to the so-called circular economy by buying second-hand clothing. You should still shop wisely and avoid purchases that you won't treasure for the long term, but second-hand clothes are increasingly on trend because of their environmental benefits. In fact, the total value of the global secondhand clothing market is predicted to more than double from its value today to reach USD 77 billion by 2025. By 2030, will buying lots of brand-new clothes be frowned upon in the same way that driving a petrol-guzzling car or traveling by private jet is today?
3. Rent or borrow
Because so many of our clothes are worn only on special occasions, it makes environmental and economic sense to rent them or borrow them from friends and family. This could also allow you to wear more expensive outfits than you otherwise could afford to purchase outright. Fashion rental platforms like By Rotation and My Wardrobe HQ have become de rigueur and are very much in demand.
4. Upcycle
As the name suggests, upcycling is the opposite of recycling. Instead of breaking down an old item into its constituent materials to then reuse them, upcycling takes discarded products and refashions them into new products of a higher value or quality than the original. Upcycling is one of the biggest trends in fashion according to Vogue.

For instance, fashion label Reformation makes its clothes from low-impact materials, rescued deadstock fabrics - leftover seasonal stock that often goes to landfill - and repurposed vintage clothing.

5. Repair and reuse

Most of us buy or are given clothes we never wear. In fact, in some countries, an estimated 40 percent of purchased clothing is never used. Repairing damaged clothes or deciding to wear them for a longer time can help: a UK study by SCAP shows that wearing an item of clothing for nine months longer could reduce its environmental impact by up to 30 percent. A growing number of fashion brands, such as the environmentally-focused outdoor clothing company Patagonia, are now inviting customers to return any items of clothing to their stores that can't be repaired so they can be recycled instead. Fashion trends are often cyclical. Now the way we make, wear, repair and reuse clothing must become circular too.

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What is fast fashion and how is it damaging the planet?

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Our addiction to new clothes is bad for the environment with the fashion industry producing 10 percent of global CO2 emissions. Here are five practical ways you can be both stylish and sustainable. Our love of new clothes and our thirst for the latest fashions comes at a cost to the planet.

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MPs urge government to fix 'throwaway' fast-fashion trend

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The government is being urged by a cross-party group of MPs to take urgent steps to fix throwaway '' fast fashion '' by supporting the development of fabrics with a lower environmental impact and boosting clothing recycling facilities.

After Covid-19 exposed its "faultlines", the industry needs to follow a more sustainable route to survive, recommends the report from the all-party parliamentary group (APPG) for ethics and sustainability in fashion.

The pandemic has "significantly hit" the sector, the report - entitled Making the UK a Global Leader in Sustainable Fashion - warns, where "supply chains have broken, sales have dropped, unsold stock has built up, retail outlets have closed and companies have gone out of business. Consumer habits have shifted and so have attitudes - the public wants to see change."

Research carried out by the environmental charity Hubbub and released on Tuesday with the report reveals that 65% of UK residents agree that the government should urgently do more to reduce the negative impact of the fashion industry on the environment.

MPs want the government to invest in more research and development to create more sustainable fabrics that have a lower environmental and social impact, and boost UK textile recycling facilities. They are also calling for a review of VAT rules which currently make it more cost-effective for companies to destroy unwanted clothing than give it away, and investment in skills to bring more clothes manufacturing jobs back to the UK.

A creation using recycled materials and designed by women of Northwest Africa is modelled at the Royal Fabric of Tapestry in Madrid in February. Photograph: Kiko Huesca/EPA

"Coronavirus has exposed deep inequalities and unsustainability in the garment industry" said Catherine West, chair of the APPG and Labour MP for Hornsey and Wood Green. "Creating a sustainable and ethical future for the fashion industry is an important but complex challenge for government, industry and the public and what is clear is that there is an appetite for this on all sides. We must seize this moment by pushing the government to be a global leader, helping to build a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry."

Even before the virus struck, the environmental and social impact of the industry was under public scrutiny, with fast fashion resulting in £140m worth of clothing being sent to landfill every year in the UK.

Despite high charity shop donation rates, 300,000 tonnes of clothing ends up in household bins every year - 20% of which goes to landfill and 80% is incinerated - according to a recent report from the environmental audit committee.

ONS figures show clothing sales plummeted by 34% in March while online shopping as a proportion of all retail reached a record high of 22% with retailers such as Boohoo - plunged into controversy over its treatment of staff as a result of a Guardian investigation - thriving.

High street casualties, meanwhile, include Aldo, Cath Kidston, Debenhams, Laura Ashley, Monsoon Accessorize, Oasis, Quiz and the UK arm of Victoria's Secret, all of which have fallen into administration.

The market research company Global Data said in March the UK clothing sector would be the worst hit with a slump in spending by a fifth (20.6%). Sales of clothing and footwear in the UK alone are expected to decline by £11.1bn.

Manufacturers are urged to "reassess and rebuild" their strategies, although among the UK brands highlighted for being quick to adapt their supply chains as a result of coronavirus are Mulberry, which ran up 8,000 hospital gowns for NHS hospital staff in Bristol, and Mackintosh, which gave up its Lancashire factory to produce nurses' uniforms.

Sign up to the daily Business Today email here or follow Guardian Business on Twitter at @BusinessDesk.

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MPs urge government to fix 'throwaway' fast-fashion trend

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The government is being urged by a cross-party group of MPs to take urgent steps to fix throwaway '' fast fashion '' by supporting the development of fabrics with a lower environmental impact and boosting clothing recycling facilities.

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What laws has the UK Government made on fast fashion?

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What laws has the UK Government made on fast fashion?

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Fast fashion has become a contentious topic. We explain what fast fashion is and the the UK laws you must comply with if set up a fashion business.

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UK consumers embracing more sustainable behaviour

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UK consumers are increasingly ecologically-minded. Fewer than one-in-ten customers now say they are not at all concerned about environmental sustainability when it comes to the products they engage with.
While consumers can only play a small role in comparison to world leaders, or global businesses, consumer consciousness around climate issues has grown exponentially, and the public is determined to do its part. With customers pressuring businesses to make their products more sustainable, many companies might be dreading the costs and challenges this will incur - but they should also be aware this presents opportunities too. For example, nearly nine-in-ten consumers have become greener in their purchasing in the last five years, offering companies a major opportunity to tap into sustainability demand.

Now, a new study from Eden McCallum among roughly 1,000 consumers has further supported this. Six charts from the research demonstrate a growing awareness among consumers, which businesses should not ignore.

As it currently stands, only 8% of people in the UK do not concern themselves with sustainability in their consumption habits - while 61% said they were either concerned, or very concerned. Many consumers are already practicing what they preach in their own lives. In the UK, 68% see personal decisions - on energy usage and insulation - as important, while diet and eating habits are seen as important by 56%.

UK consumers are also taking steps to negate the impact of their travel on the environment. The majority were now avoiding trips that required planes at least some of the time - with just under half of them doing this 'often.'

Meanwhile, a further 46% said they were walking instead of using a car, bus or train. Very few noted they would cycle though - and only 23% suggested cycling would be relatively regular as a mode of transport; perhaps reflecting the UK's long-neglecting bicycle infrastructure, where dedicated cycle lanes are few and far between.

At the same time, consumers in the UK were increasingly weighing up alternative diets to improve their carbon footprint. Fewer than one-fifth of the respondents said they never avoided specific ingredients which were damaging to the environment. Successful campaigns to get consumers to divest from ingredients like palm oil have meanwhile seen 40% of consumers avoid specific ingredients often.

On top of this, more and more consumers are turning away from the meat industry. While only 7% said they are always vegan, a further 31% said they at least sometimes adopted a vegan diet, and the same number said they regularly avoid red meat like beef and lamb.

However, as they exhaust these methods, many consumers are turning to consider what larger organisations they are stakeholders in can do to prevent climate change, and ecological destruction.

More consumers said that what companies do, and what governments do, make the most impact on environmental sustainability. Around 79% of consumers said government actions were important, followed by 76% regarding companies, and 72% for individual actions.

At present, 36% of UK consumers are often or always choosing brands with good sustainability credentials. More specifically though, 34% were reducing the among of new products they purchased on a regular basis. A further 44% regularly also chose products and brands including recycled or compostable packaging.

While these numbers may still seem comparatively low to some businesses, they may be a sign of bigger changes to come. As a result, firms which take the hint and plan to adapt sooner rather than later may be better positioned to take advantage of consumers becoming even more conscious of sustainability.

The researchers mapped over two dozen consumer actions to reduce emissions, and found out that those with highest impact or still relatively rarely used. It may not stay that way for long, though.

Sara Ghazi-Tabatabai, Associate Partner at Eden McCallum, said, "Concern among consumers has not yet been transformed into concerted action among all age groups, or mass change in behaviour, particularly in the most impactful areas. The challenge for responsible business leaders will be to work out where they can innovate boldly and encourage customer preferences to develop."

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UK consumers embracing more sustainable behaviour

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UK consumers are increasingly ecologically-minded. Fewer than one-in-ten customers now say they are not at all concerned about environmental sustainability when it comes to the products they engage with.

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Interview questions- Laura owner of vintage shop

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Interview questions- Laura owner of vintage shop

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What were your motivations for opening your own vintage shop?

Do you think the popularity of vintage clothing has grown in recent years? If so why do you think this is?

In your opinion, how does the experience of buying vintage clothing compare to buying other types of secondhand fashion?

What would you say is the main demographic who shop in your shop and buy vintage in general?

What do you think are the main factors influencing consumers to buy vintage clothing and are these factors the same as why consumers shop in charity shops and on resale apps?

Do you think there are any barriers still discouraging people from buying secondhand clothing, if so what are they and how do you think these could be overcome?

Although the secondhand shopping market has grown massively in recent years, it's estimated that more than two tonnes of clothing are bought each minute in the UK, how do you think consumers could be encouraged to turn away from fast fashion completely?

What affect do you think social media has had on the vintage and secondhand market? Do you think this affect is positive and could there be any negative implications (e.g. encouraging overconsumption)?

Do you think that consumers are more concerned about price of their clothes or if they are shopping sustainably?

Have resale apps such as Vinted and Depop had any affect on consumers shoping in-store seconhand such as vintage shops and charity shops?

What do you think the future looks like for secondhand shopping and vintage fashion?

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Cost of living crisis will drive more consumers towards secondhand fashion, with the global apparel resale market set to grow 85.5% between 2022 and 2026 to $338.4 billion, says GlobalData - GlobalData

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While secondhand markets, charity shops and vintage shops have long been a popular way of buying apparel to access lower prices and more unique items, the global apparel resale market* has grown rapidly over the past few years as new online platforms have emerged, and sustainability concerns have grown in tandem with consumer desire for more affordable fashion, says GlobalData.

The leading data and analytics company's latest report, ' Apparel Resale Market Size and Trend Analysis, 2016-2026 ', reveals that between 2016 and 2021, the global resale market grew by an impressive 109.4%, and in 2022, it is forecast to experience further growth of 31.0% to $182.4 billion, as soaring inflation drives shoppers to seek out cheaper apparel options and find alternative ways of making money by clearing out their closets.

Emily Salter, Senior Apparel Analyst at GlobalData, comments: "With the growth of online platforms such as Depop and Vinted, fast fashion players are also trying to get onboard to stay relevant, with Zara the latest to announce the launch of its own resale service. Though these services will only account for a small percentage of retailers' total revenue and do little to truly increase their circularity, as they will still be dependent on pushing brand-new items too, retailers will hope to boost their sustainability credentials. As a result of the ever-growing choice of platforms to choose from, GlobalData forecasts that the resale apparel market will increase by $155.9 billion between 2022 and 2026, reaching $338.4 billion in 2026."

While clothing is set to be the fastest growing segment of the resale apparel market out to 2026, footwear is not far behind.

Salter continues: "Although consumers have generally been less likely to purchase secondhand shoes due to hygiene concerns and items quickly showing signs of wear, the resale trainer market is continuing to gain popularity as streetwear fans seek out limited edition styles on platforms such as StockX and GOAT."

Luxury is a prominent area for resale, with hype focused on designer accessories, especially handbags, as consumers perceive these items to be good investments and more specialist platforms such as Cudoni and Rebag have emerged to meet demand.

Salter adds: "Despite this demand, secondhand luxury prices still remain inaccessible for many shoppers, and this will contribute to the resale accessories market seeing lower growth than clothing and footwear out to 2026."

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Cost of living crisis will drive more consumers towards secondhand fashion, with the global apparel resale market set to grow 85.5% between 2022 and 2026 to $338.4 billion, says GlobalData - GlobalData

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While secondhand markets, charity shops and vintage shops have long been a popular way of buying apparel to access lower prices and more unique items,...

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Vintage Boom: Archival Fashion & the Resale Market

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Vintage Boom: Archival Fashion & the Resale Market

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Second-Hand Fashion: On The Rise But Will It Save The Environment? - Business Leader News

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Second-Hand Fashion: On The Rise But Will It Save The Environment? 

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Second-Hand Fashion: On The Rise But Will It Save The Environment? 

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Second-hand fashion is a hot market right now. The sector has grown considerably since the cost of living has gone up and looks set to become bigger than fast fashion in a few years' time. But as economies around the world stabilise, will the market slow down and does buying second-hand really solve the environmental damage that buying clothes inflicts? We take a closer look.

Is the cost-of-living crisis causing consumers to go second-hand?

UK consumers have been enduring the cost-of-living crisis since late 2021. Still ongoing, inflation has only recently crept back under double digits, whilst interest rates have hit 5%, their highest amount in 15 years. As things have steadily become more expensive, the number of people purchasing second-hand clothing has gone up.

City A.M reported that in 2022, eBay saw a 24 percent increase in circular fashion businesses joining the site, and searches for pre-loved clothing on eBay UK rose 1600 percent from summer 2022 to January 2023. According to GlobalData, the UK clothes resale market also grew by 149% between 2016 and 2022 and is forecast to increase by 67.5% from 2022 to 2026.

According to Cam McGimpsey, the CEO of Birl, a SaaS platform that rewards customers for giving their clothes back, the cost-of-living crisis is making second-hand more attractive to consumers.

He says: "It will be the cost-benefit/savings of second-hand that will result in mass adoption, as unfortunately, the environmental benefit by itself won't be enough. We can already see this with Gen Z shoppers, who are able to obtain the brands they want at a significant discount compared with new. Naturally, the cost-of-living crisis will draw larger sections of society who are unable to purchase what they want if it is new, and therefore will help speed up second-hand adoption."

Diana Saarva, Chief Operating Officer of Miros, a visual AI platform for shoppers, says that whilst increased consumption was a consequence of rising living costs, the number of people shopping secondhand was already on the rise.

She comments: "One of the effects of the cost-of-living crisis was producing increased consumption of second-hand goods. However, this only escalated what was already surging at the time and initiated a consumer incentive of shopping second-hand, beyond trends and means of shopping circularly.
"This includes the generated hype of shopping for pre-loved goods that circulated social media during the pandemic amongst Gen-Z shoppers due to vintage-inspired trends and 'thrifting'. Moves towards circular fashion were something that existed before economic instability."
Despite remaining high, inflation in the UK has started to fall, and the Bank of England expects it will drop to 2% by late 2024. So, once prices begin to stabilise, will people return to buying their clothing brand new again?

McGimpsey doesn't think so.

He says: "In truth, I don't think a return to economic stability will reduce adoption, as disposable income has been eroding away for quite some time now. The cost-of-living crisis has only accelerated the real income reduction that was taking place anyway. Finding cheaper alternatives is no longer a luxury, but instead a necessity for so many consumers."

Saarva concurs.

She comments: "If the economy stabilises, I don't believe second-hand marketplaces for luxury goods will suffer a loss. People are after pre-loved luxury due to increased prices of high-fashion goods. For example, Chanel keeps increasing stock prices, particularly their classic flap. Therefore, those after classic bags will look toward second-hand marketplaces as a means to purchase within a more affordable price range whilst maintaining a similar value of the goods purchased."

Can second-hand fashion compete with fast fashion on price?

Whilst there are plenty of opportunities to pick up a bargain second-hand, the sector still has to compete with fast fashion, which is notoriously cheap and bad for the environment. A Guardian story from 2019 covering a £4 dress from Boohoo epitomises exactly what the second-hand market is up against. Buying from a vintage shop can also mean consumers pay more for a second-hand item than they would for a brand-new item from a fast-fashion retailer, which raises important questions over whether second-hand can truly ever compete with fast fashion in this regard.

However, McGimpsey thinks education is the key to resolving this.

He comments: "Yes, an item may be more expensive, but the fact that it is still in good condition in a vintage store shows how well made it is and how long it will last. It also shows that it has good re-sell value for you once you no longer have a need for it.
"Secondly, it also looks like help is coming. The government may be introducing extended producer responsibility (EPR) legislation within the next few years. This will make it legally binding for anyone producing clothing to contribute to its effective disposal at the end of its lifecycle. This legislation will hit fast fashion the hardest, and as a result make purchasing better products, whether new or second-hand, a more attractive proposition for everyone."
But price is not the only way the second-hand market is in competition with fast fashion. According to Saarva, Instagram culture and how it affects shoppers' consumption of fast fashion is a big barrier to the growth of secondhand.

She comments: "Most barriers concern consumer shopping habits: the Instagram consumer culture and its need to purchase new outfits for every outing or just post a new picture. This is most common amongst the younger generation. Therefore, the accessibility for fast fashion platforms, in terms of price points, constant release of new stock and quick shipping options, and lesser consumer spending power, is a big challenge.
"Second-hand marketplaces are being used by this 'Instagram Generation' to sell clothes they wore once and purchased from fast fashion retailers at an even lower price. Also, fast fashion sites are now part of second-hand marketplaces: Pretty Little Thing & Asos are two of many which have incorporated second-hand shopping. Zara has most recently joined the 'fast fashion turned circular' cohort. TikTok and Instagram also have their own marketplaces, which might be of concern because they sell inexpensive fashion items perpetuating the expansion of fast fashion."
According to Peter Lydon, Chief Product Officer at Birl, the biggest barrier to growth is still the taboo that surrounds wearing used clothing. He says younger generations have managed to get past this, but older generations still have a long way to go to being fully converted.

Lydon continues: "Focusing more on the commercial barriers to growth, second-hand fashion does not have the economies of scale that are available when selling new products. Items do not come in size runs, each item needs to be photographed and warehouse storage is a lot more resource intense. In addition to this, second-hand isn't e-commerce friendly, as consumers want to truly understand their item's condition before making a purchase.
"The other key hurdle is the current lack of transparency in second-hand, and this needs to be improved. Sellers are often buying their inventory blind and are let down on what they thought they were purchasing. Buyers don't have the same rights as they do when purchasing new, so often don't have the confidence required to convert."
Despite the various barriers to growth, it looks as if the second-hand market is set to thrive in the years ahead. According to Thredup's Resale Report 2023, the global secondhand market is expected to grow three times faster on average than the global apparel market overall and will be worth $351 billion by 2027.

But will it save the environment?

As touched on earlier, one of the biggest growth drivers for the second-hand sector is its eco-credentials and the increase of more eco-conscious consumers. However, the fast fashion market is expected to continue growing too. According to Statista, the worldwide fast fashion market was estimated to be worth around $106 billion in 2022 and will be worth $185 billion by 2027. With the market continuing to grow, emissions from fast fashion are expected to increase 50% by 2030.

So, even though the second-hand market will nearly double the size of fast fashion by 2027, is it enough to offset the environmental damage being caused?

"No, it isn't enough, but it is a good start", says Lydon. "There are two other key actions that stakeholders need to embrace to get much closer to net zero.
"Firstly, at a top level we need to be allocating more resources to accelerate the commercial viability of fibre-to-fibre recycling. Fibre-to-fibre recycling is the process of turning clothing back into clothing, which unfortunately is much more difficult than turning other items (like plastic bottles) into clothing. It is scientifically possible, but not currently commercially viable. "Whilst fibre-to-fibre is being made into a scalable reality, brands should be looking to reduce the emissions created by their end-to-end production process. Reductions can be made by using better materials, greener energy sources and more efficient transportation practices as a start. Brands also need to work with credible carbon capture products to offset the remaining emissions that they are still creating."
However, Saarva says buying secondhand still indirectly supports fast fashion and fuels overconsumption.

She continues: "Online shopping means it is easy for customers to buy without thinking, while major brands offer cheap clothes that can be treated like disposable items - worn two or three times and then thrown away. One aspect of the online shopping problem is customers "settling" for cheap items they find on sale rather than buying items they love and keep. And this happens because search algorithms are operated by outdated technology that doesn't know how to interact with the modern customer.
"We are tackling this problem with our Wordless Search feature that uses AI to translate customer intent into efficient search results in an online store so that customers can find it easy to find the right products even for hard-to-describe styles, patterns or colour combinations. This makes it less likely for clothes to be discarded after a few wears into the second-hand market."
Even as economies around the world begin to stabilise, the second-hand market will not slow down. And whilst its growth is certainly more encouraging than that of the fast fashion sector, the reality is general overconsumption of clothes means the environment will continue to take a hit. But as new eco-technologies emerge and legislation comes into effect, there are, at least, some signs of encouragement for the future.

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Second-Hand Fashion: On The Rise But Will It Save The Environment? - Business Leader News

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Second-hand fashion will soon become bigger than fast, but will it stop growing as economies stabilise and will it save the environment?

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- LO6 + LO7 + LO8 SMART plan
- Planning structure of report, making notes on each section
- Secondary research

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- Between 300 and 600 words
- What is the report about?
- What is being proposed (aims and objectives)?
- Why are you making this suggestion?
- What action should be taken next and how?
- What is the proposed outcome and how will it meet your aims and objectives?

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The State of Fashion 2023: Holding onto growth as global clouds gather

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Consumers may be affected differently by the potential economic turbulence in 2023. Depending on factors such as disposable income level, some will postpone or curtail discretionary purchases; others will seek out bargains, increasing the demand for resale, rental, and off-price products. Fashion executives should adapt their business models to protect customer loyalty and avoid diluting their brands.

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Secondhand Shopping in Japan: How To Get Fashion Items for Cheap

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When I lived in Japan, I shamelessly bought a mountain of clothing, the size of which would make Mt. Fuji blush. Wondering how I pulled this off without an ounce of remorse? The secret is that almost all of it was secondhand. Up until then, I hadn't owned many basics, so I took the opportunity to fill the holes in my wardrobe with very affordable pieces I found while thrifting in Japan. If you're also looking to buy Japanese clothes without breaking the bank (or planet), you've come to the right place!

In this article, I'll introduce some useful Japanese vocabulary, offer advice on where to find the best stuff, and perhaps even convince you to consider buying used next time you need a coat, camisole, or kigurumi. Maybe you already read my article on secondhand shopping in Japan in general and are eager to learn more clothing-related phrases. Or maybe you're already a master Japanese haggler and just want to skip to the part where I tell you where to shop.

Regardless, after reading, I hope you'll come away with knowledge that will help you get fabric on your torso in Japan with a little more confidence and eco-friendliness.

Why Buy Secondhand Clothes in Japan?

First things first - why would you raid a stranger's closet when you could just buy something new? It's a great question, especially if you're used to wearing shiny new threads fresh off the conveyor belt. My best answer? Chances are someone on this earth has already bought the item of clothing you want, worn it zero to a few times, and doesn't want it anymore. All you have to do is take it off their hands for a discounted price. This way, your impact on both the environment and your coin purse is reduced. Save the fugu with your shopping habits!

Japanese sellers tend to describe and post pictures of imperfections meticulously.

But more specifically, why buy secondhand clothes in Japan? Well, Japanese used items tend to be pretty well taken care of, and this definitely includes clothes. Most garments you buy will (often explicitly) come washed, preserved, and ready for its second life on your beautiful form. Plus, I've found that Japanese sellers tend to describe and post pictures of imperfections much more meticulously than in the US. This high level of transparency means you're generally less likely to encounter unsightly surprises when buying used clothing in Japan.

Buying used clothing is a great way to try interesting Japanese fashion trends and styles.

Lastly, if there are any interesting Japanese fashion trends or styles you want to try but have held back because of the expense, buying used clothing is a great solution. Wouldn't you rather pay 2,000 yen to Hanako from Kagoshima than 5,000 yen to Big Lolita Skirt? If you don't like it, you can just pass it on to someone else.

Nevertheless, I understand if the thought of wearing someone's old hand-me-downs still skeeves you out. But I hope the many benefits outweigh any worries you have. Especially if you've never thrift shopped for clothing before, Japan is one of the best places to start.

So now that I've hopefully prodded your mind open, how do you buy secondhand clothes in Japan like a super smart, edumacated person?

Japanese Words to Look For

The best way to look like you know what you're talking about is...actually knowing what you're talking about. The words that come out of your mouth (or more likely, fingertips)? You should know them.

Luckily for English speakers, a lot of Japanese fashion words are phonetically borrowed from English. So those who can read katakana, the Japanese writing system used for foreign words, will have an easier time understanding much of this "basically English" lingo. If you don't know katakana yet (no shame), Tofugu has a Learn Katakana guide that might be up your alley. Otherwise, copy and paste will be your friend.

Here are some words to help you find places to shop for secondhand clothing in Japan:
Secondhand Shopping / Used Clothes-Related Vocabulary
Okay, now you know words for where to look, but how about words for what you're looking for? You can use this next chart of vocabulary words to search for what you want, or come back and reference it while reading descriptions of clothes in Japanese. It's not an exhaustive list, but it should give you the basic tools you need to not accidentally buy shitagi ("underwear") when you were looking for uwagi ("outerwear").
Types of Clothes
Are you sure of what you want (a sweet, sweet shatsu, perhaps), but not certain which category it falls under? Here are some category and description words that will really help to know when secondhand shopping in Japanese, especially online.
Fashion Categories
Fantastic, now you know how to articulate that you're looking for a 90s leather jacket for babies. But how do you make sure it's the right size? The differences between Western and Asian sizing can be tricky, but this next handy chart should help you and your vintage infant avoid looking like packaged sausage. Many Japanese online sellers list exact measurements, so prepare to measure your crotch in centimeters to see what will fit you.

Size-Related Vocabulary

Nice job, you've used these words to buy a frilly secondhand sundress for your big post-covid party in 2092. But whatever will you style it with? For all you jewelry-heads out there, don't worry - I didn't forget you. Consult the following list next time you feel the insatiable urge to accessorize.
Accessory-Related Vocabulary
Be careful not to get hoodwinked by the difference between イヤリング ( iyaringu) and ピアス ( piasu). This bozo has bought way too many cute earrings in Japan only to get home and discover they're clip-ons (the horror!). Remember, if you've got holes in your ears, what are they? Pierced (ピアス).

But no matter what you're buying, you'll probably want to make sure it's not actively disintegrating on the hanger. Look for the following words in any item's description to learn how it's holding up.
Condition of Fashion Items
Keep in mind that sometimes, sellers will say something is " kedama-less" (毛玉レス, kedamaresu) or has "no stains" (汚れなし, yogore nashi). So even if you do see some of the above words, know that the item may still be in good condition. It's all about context, baby. If you're having trouble, learn you some grammar!

And if you're shopping on Mercari (a magical, mystical wonderland that I'll talk about later), I wrote a whole other chart explaining how to search by item condition using their specific terminology.

Whew...that's a lot of vocab. Japanese, am I right? Now, let's look at some example sentences to start stringing those random words into a semi-cohesive thought.

状態はいいと思います。
Jōtai wa iito omoimasu.

[The item] is in good condition

少し毛玉がありますが問題なくまだまだ着用可能です。
Sukoshi kedama ga arimasuga mondainaku madamada chakuyōkanō desu.

There are a few lint balls, but it can still be worn without a problem.

ルームウェアとしていかがですか。
Rūmuuea toshite ikagadesuka?

Why not wear it as pajamas/loungewear?

首元に多少の使用感がありますが、全体的には美品だと思います。
Kubimoto ni tashō no shiyōkan ga arimasuga, zentaitekiniwa bihindato omoimasu.

There's a bit of wear and tear around the neck, but on the whole, it's in close to mint condition.

And that's all the secondhand clothes shopping vocabulary I could think of! Armed with that knowledge, and those perhaps-too-plentiful charts I whipped up, you should feel considerably more confident buying clothes in Japan.

Where to Find Secondhand Clothing in Japan

Now that you know how to talk about secondhand clothes shopping in Japanese, how about actually doing it? In this section, I'll give you the details on some of the best spots to thrift shop for clothing in Japan, both online and in person. My personal award for #1 on this list goes to Mercari, but all of these stores have something wonderful to offer your clothing-less physique.

From e-commerce apps to big chain stores to small local shops, I've got solicited and unsolicited advice for every possible mode of bargain bin hunting. So let's get to it!

Mercari

Do you prefer to engage in consumerism from the comfort of your own 布団 ( futon)? My top suggestion is to investigate a little place of wonder called Mercari, or メルカリ ( Merukari). It's an e-commerce platform where any regular person can sell anything they don't want anymore. Think eBay, but more interactive and less seedy and commercial.

There are plenty of nihonjin unburdening themselves of their attire on Mercari.

Mercari was founded in Japan, then expanded into the US and UK. But while there's a Western, English-based version of the app with different branding, I highly recommend downloading the Japanese version if you're in Japan. This will ensure you're buying goods from within Japan, even if it takes some language learning on your part along the way.

Luckily, there are plenty of nihonjin (and some foreigners) unburdening themselves of their attire on Mercari - often for way cheap. The minimum price you can list something for on Japanese Mercari is 300 yen, so you'll find lots of clothing at and around that low price.

Once you find a frock that speaks to you, you'll want to look at the description. Many sellers on Japanese Mercari list the exact measurements of each piece of clothing, so break out the tape measure and punch サイズの測り方 ( saizu no hakarikata, "how to measure size") into Google Images if needed. That should show you some Japanese clothes-measuring diagrams, which you can reference to understand which measurements sellers are talking about. You can also sneak a peek at the size vocab chart from earlier to see if any of those words make an appearance.

Many sellers list the exact measurements of each piece of clothing.

Keep in mind that Mercari is a pretty personal experience, especially when you're buying something someone used to put on their body. For example, some sellers want you to comment your interest before buying. Look out for phrases like コメントでやりとりしてから ( komento de yaritori shitekara, "once we chat in the comments, [we'll see about you possibly buying]") and 即購入不可 ( sokukōnyū fuka, "do not instantly buy this item [without commenting]"). On the other hand, if the description says 即購入可 ( sokukōnyūka, "instant purchase is possible") or 即購入OK ( sokukōnyū ōkē, "instant purchase is okay"), you're good to go without commenting. Most times you'll find it's okay not to comment, but it's always best to check.

For tips on using Mercari that aren't strictly clothes-related, my article on Secondhand Shopping in Japan includes a lot more general advice on how not to make a dodo of yourself on the platform. You might slip up a few times as a foreigner, especially if you've never used it before, but that's okay. I still think it's worth it to get a good deal, save some polar bears, and help an average person clean out their closet.

Local Thrift Stores & Flea Markets

Okay, you've surfed the internet and discovered the titillating majesty of Mercari. But what if you want - gasp - an in-person experience? (Oh, the humanity!) In that case, I recommend seeing if your city or prefecture has any local thrift stores that could use your business. A smaller retailer could likely benefit the most from your yen, so why not take the opportunity to find some interesting mom-and-pop shops near you?

Each spot will have its own unique style and specialty.

To start exploring, try typing the word 古着屋 ( furugiya, "old/secondhand clothes store") into Google Maps. Google-sensei will then show you thrift stores in your area, including both independent shops and big chains. You might even be so lucky as to find a nearby haberdashery, the employees of which can hopefully teach you what the word haberdashery means.

Especially with smaller stores, each spot will have its own unique style and specialty, so don't worry if you find one too obaa-san ("grandma/old lady") or yankī ("delinquent") for your taste. With a bit of shopping around, you'll probably find your niche. (Or just embrace the delinquent grandma aesthetic...what goes better with a pompadour than a warm crocheted sweater?)

Shōtengai might be your best bet in terms of trendiness.

Speaking of style, check whether there are any shōtengai ("shopping streets") near you that are known for selling used or vintage goods. Shōtengai might be your best bet in terms of trendiness, since areas with a lot of foot traffic are more likely to have both new and secondhand stores that cater to younger demographics. For instance, in Nagoya, Osu Kannon's shopping arcade contains dozens of small thrift shops with racks of clothes outside that you can flip through before entering. Ask around and find out where the locals go when they're fishing for a new outfit. Chances are, there'll be some furugiya around there as well for you to support.

Conveniently, if you've hunted down the right area full of thrift stores, you may have also stumbled upon a flea market. Often, Japanese flea markets are held in central locations like shōtengai, shrines, temples, parks, the base of Tokyo Skytree, etc. Maybe not so much during pandemic times, but you'll want to know where these colorful antique fairs are for future reference. Plus, both flea markets and small thrift stores are excellent ways to support your local community, which also leads to feelings of back-pattery for you. Neato!

2nd Street

If you've read Secondhand Shopping in Japan, you know my thoughts on 2nd Street. It's a reliable resource for when you need something basic, like a long-sleeve shirt or purse, that you're not that picky about in terms of style. In fact, 2nd Street is perfect for this, since if you're in a Japanese city, you're probably a stone's throw away from one at any given time.

2nd Street's overall vibe tends to vary especially widely.

Wandering into a 2nd Street is like playing roulette - you might get super lucky, or you might find everything to be covered in sequins. Like any secondhand chain, different locations will have different things in stock at different times, but 2nd Street's overall vibe tends to vary especially widely. I've found some downtown branches that have an upstairs with trendy, pricier brands of streetwear, while others feel like they were stocked exclusively by obā-chan's shuffleboard club. Definitely check out the 2nd Streets in your area, but leave your expectations at the door and be open to whatever random racks of clothes happen to greet you.

If you don't want to go outside, though, 2nd Street also has items for sale on their website. The online store uses a virtual trying-on system called Virtusize, where you can input your measurements and see how they compare to the clothes' measurements. It's pretty helpful!

2nd Street has locations in the US, as well as an American online store.

And if you're not in Japan, 2nd Street actually has locations in the US, as well as an American online store. They reportedly stock pieces from both the US and Japan, which is helpful for those of us who like Japanese styles but don't want to be bankrupted by shipping fees.

Overall, 2nd Street is the most ubiquitous and well-known secondhand chain in Japan for good reason, but certainly not your only option.

Treasure Factory

And now for the stores I haven't personally shopped at. Since I haven't bought anything from the places in these last few sections, take my words with a grain of salt. But don't let it stop you from scoping them out on my behalf!

In the general secondhand shopping article, I introduced Treasure Factory. Like the "-Off" series of stores, Treasure Factory is a general flagship store with an umbrella of smaller, more specific shops, including several that specialize in secondhand clothing. Depending on your price point, you can decide which one might meet your sartorial needs.

TreFacStyle

With the most awkward-to-say name of all time, TreFacStyle (トレファクスタイル) mainly sells basic, everyday casual wear. If you're looking to try your hand at some good old 買取 ( kaitori, "trade-in/buyback"), you can do it at TreFacStyle. Just make sure your items match the brands and categories they'll take by checking their 取扱いアイテム ("Accepted Items") page. They periodically hold "20% UP" campaigns where you get paid 20% more for your whole lot if you include at least one item from specific high-end brands.

All in all, TreFacStyle may be best for people who care about brands and quality a moderate amount, but don't necessarily want to pay huge bucks for them.

UseLet

You've also got two other options, on opposite ends of the price spectrum. On the dirt cheap side, UseLet (ユーズレット) is a warehouse-style secondhand fashion outlet that prides itself on "extreme" affordability. UseLet says you can coordinate a whole outfit for just 1,000 yen, and I'd love to see someone test them on that. They sell new items as well as used, so while you're rummaging around for latex cow-print unitards, you might hit the jackpot and find one with the tag still on.

UseLet seems best for anyone who is on a budget, doesn't care about brand names, and/or just wants to get the most bang for their buck. (If I still lived in Japan, this would be me!) They only exist in Tokyo, Saitama, and Kanagawa though, so if you live outside of those prefectures, you're outta luck.

TreFac Fashion Online

Treasure Factory also has an online store called TreFac Fashion, which bears the most similarity to TreFacStyle in terms of price and brands. The majority of their clothes range from about 1,900 yen to 30,000 yen, with a few special vintage items going for 200,000 yen or more. (Who knew a pair of jeans from the 60s could be so expensive?) The info page even provides frequent updates about 入荷 ( nyūka, "new arrivals") and 値下げ ( nesage, "discounts"). So if you want, you can glue yourself to your screen waiting for those precious used Levi's to finally not cost a million dollars.

ZOZOUSED

Looking for somewhere to shop outside of the Treasure Factory extended universe? Japanese clothing retailer ZOZOTOWN, which owns the popular Japanese outfit-sharing website/app WEAR, has a secondhand section called ZOZOUSED. Their prices are fairly low, with many items selling for under 3,000 yen, as well as higher-end garments that can get into the tens of thousands of yen. You can peruse their secondhand listings by clicking 新着 ( shinchaku), or New Arrivals, and even filter by which day they arrived (e.g. 3月15日発売, or "[Arrived] for Sale on March 15th"). By the staggering number of items available, ZOZO is a highly popular website for clothing resale, so you'll likely have no trouble finding something that floats your boat.

Some special features of ZOZOUSED include the ability to save brands you like, see similar listings on each item's page, and browse the 500 yen sale rack. Just be sure to check the item's condition, rated from S to D like many other secondhand sites.

For shoppers outside of Japan, ZOZOTOWN partners with international shipping company Buyee to ship their clothes overseas. Bear in mind, though, that it'll probably make your cheapo secondhand shopping habits not so cheap.

SPINNS Used Section

If you're into Japanese fashion, you've likely heard of SPINNS, a streetwear store marketed toward young trendsetters, with their flagship store in Harajuku. The 古着 section of their site includes a selection of secondhand clothing that will make you look like the most stylish American hoodlum there is. A lot of their used clothes are 5,000 yen or under, although they have items from pricier brands as well.

Unlike most websites in this article, they don't seem to list much information about the condition of clothes, so buy at your own risk. But at least some physical locations carry secondhand offerings as well, so you can browse the racks in person. All in all, if you enjoy big graphic sweaters, baggy jeans, letterman jackets, Hard Rock Cafe t-shirts, and the like, you could do a lot worse than the used section of SPINNS.

Secondhand Luxury Brands

At this point, you've learned about where to find affordable used clothes in Japan, mostly regardless of brand names. But wait - are you too good for $7 pants? Have you got a fat pocketbook of yen to spend, but not quite fat enough to buy designer brands at designer prices?

Then check out these three secondhand stores where you can thrift for upscale garments and accessories that will injure your bank account slightly less. If you sip your green tea with your pinky up, you'll feel right at home at any of these shops.

Also, much like other secondhand stores, these places let you trade in your own unwanted items. Thus, if you've got any old Hermes belts lying around, consider taking them to Brand Collect, KOMEHYO, or RAGTAG so some poor, needy banker can hold their fancy pants up for a discount.

Brand Collect

You thought we were done with Treasure Factory, eh? Think again, pal. Brand Collect (ブランドコレクト) is the subsidiary of TreFac that specializes in used luxury-brand clothes and accessories. They have locations in Tokyo as well as an online store. You'll find all the usual suspects: Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, and all those other fancy designers with hard-to-spell names.

The secondhand items are rated by their 程度 ( teido, "degree/amount") of wear and tear on a six-star scale. Helpfully, their online site also offers diagrams with exact measurements, or 計測サイズ ( keisoku saizu), for a lot of the products they sell, so you can be extra sure it fits before you buy it.

Price-wise, if you've recently hit it big at pachinko and are looking to blow those stacks of cash, it'll be pretty easy at Brand Collect. Items can cost from about 5,000 yen all the way up to 100,000 yen or more. But you can recoup some of those losses by trading in (買取, kaitori) any of your spare monocles or golden handbags remotely through a LINE app application or in person.

KOMEHYO

Tired of all the Treasure Factory offshoots? KOMEHYO is also a well-known chain that specializes in secondhand clothes, bags, shoes, accessories, and jewelry from high-end brands. Their stock is similar to Brand Collect, with the addition of some other interesting stuff, like fancy pens, fancy kimono, fancy musical instruments, fancy cameras, and of course, fancy diamonds.

For my fellow hermits, their online store has the same sort of opulent offerings as they do in person. Sometimes they have campaigns where shipping is free if you spend at least 5,000 yen, a number you're sure to hit if you buy literally anything. A few items go for less than 10,000 yen, but the majority will cost you several tens of thousands of yen (万円). So if you're some kind of millionaire, or just a spirited debtor, KOMEHYO might be for you!

Not all their products are used, but most of them do say 中古品 ( chūkohin), or "used item." KOMEHYO rates their used items on a scale of S, A, B, and C, where S is close to new and C is heavily used. For some items, they even include the 参考上代 ( sankōjōdai), or MSRP (manufacturer's suggested retail price), so you can compare and see how much it's marked down. Both prices are usually a bunch of money, but at least you're saving 300,000 yen on a 700,000 yen bag, right? Right?

RAGTAG

RAGTAG is yet another store that sells secondhand luxury clothes for lower prices, seemingly focused on street brands. But if you live in Japan and can't read much Japanese, this one might be your best bet. Of all the stores in this article, it's the only one with an English online store that isn't either 1) nonexistent, or 2) shoddily machine-translated. Also, RAGTAG sells many items for under 10,000 yen, which is less expensive on the whole than KOMEHYO.

Uniquely, their product listings describe items' fabric thickness, lining, sheerness, elasticity, and glossiness. These details are majorly useful for getting a sense of the material and "feel" of a garment before you buy. Anyone who's tried to buy a white shirt only to find it's basically translucent tissue paper knows what I mean!

Like 2nd Street, RAGTAG uses Virtusize to show you the size of clothes using diagrams and your own input measurements. However, RAGTAG also lets you compare items to clothes you've already bought and has a handy "Add to Closet" button. Most impressively, you can even search by image. Just upload a picture of one garment or a complete outfit, set the focus on which article of clothing you want from the outfit, and RAGTAG shows you similar items to buy. It largely works based on color, but still, this function had me exclaiming enthusiastic expletives as I experimented with it. Needless to say, RAGTAG offers the most robust online secondhand shopping system I've found so far.

As usual, you can exchange your used clothing for a modest wad of yen here. Check their trade-in page to see what brands they'll accept.

Hand-Me-Downs Make the Gaijin

"Cool threads, pal. Where'd you get them? Oh, off the back of a stranger? Radical, me too. There's some guy named Satoshi running around stark naked, all thanks to me." Don't you wish this could be you? Well, with the help of secondhand shopping, some healthy concern for future generations, and a little cheapness, you too can have weird conversations like this one.

So next time you need a pair of jeans, sunglasses, or inflatable clown shoes, consider ripping them off the body of someone you've never met. I mean, er, buying them secondhand! Inspire people all across Japan to embrace what ママ gave 'em by giving their clothes a good home. Your conscience and wallet, along with budding nudist Satoshi, will thank you.

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Secondhand Shopping in Japan: How To Get Fashion Items for Cheap

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Looking for a way to buy clothes, shoes and other fashion items in Japan? Check out used stuff - many times, you can't even tell they are secondhand.

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The Rise Of Resale: How Second-Hand Became Fashion's First Port Of Call

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The best advertising campaigns make you want to be the woman on the billboard. In 2013, I wanted to be Daria Werbowy in a pink, roll-top bath, naked save for a rhinestone-studded collar necklace and bracelets, in Céline's spring campaign.

I dreamt about that sparkling choker, specifically, for months, though it was wildly unaffordable - upwards of £2,000 - on my peanut salary as a fashion reporter. Years later, when its creator Phoebe Philo announced she was leaving the brand in 2017, I thought of the necklace again. Curious to see if I could track one down, I hit Google. Fifteen minutes later, I had unearthed a German seller on the French resale website Vestiaire Collective, who was willing to part with theirs for £481.37, complete with its dust bag and original box. Reader, I bought it. And then I bragged about it. "It's spring/summer 2013," I told admirers who enquired as to the necklace's origin at a Vogue party.

Time was when past-season designer wares would be pushed to the back of the wardrobe or donated to willing recipients after their moment in the spotlight. Now, pre-loved, pre-worn, used, thrifted and resale clothes and accessories could not be more desirable. "Vintage" is the term that covers all bases, though it makes the sticklers shudder: technically, it should only be applied to clothes made between the past 20 and 99 years. In any case, the second-hand market today is distinctly evolved from the two categories that "vintage" used to denote: an acid-free, tissue-wrapped couture dress acquired at an auction house on the one hand, or a moth-ball-scented slip dress unearthed at a flea market stall on the other.

For one thing, the pre-loved items that today's savviest shoppers are hunting down are often not that old. And the hunt isn't taking place in cavernous warehouses or auction houses, but online. Today's well-dressed fashion fans score gently used Alaïa dresses on The RealReal, worn-once Bottega Veneta Cassette bags on Vestiaire Collective, vintage Chanel bouclé jackets on Hewi, and pre-owned Hermès Birkins on Collector Square. They snap up sold-out BNWT ("bought new with tags", in internet speak) Zara leggings on Depop and second-hand Jean Paul Gaultier Cyber Dots mesh tops on eBay. They go to StockX for like-new Dior Air Jordans and to Chrono24 for lived-in Cartier Tanks, making a brief detour to Dotte for Mini Rodini cast-offs for their kids.

They sell, too. After all, their original Dior Saddle bag from spring/summer 2000 is worth a pretty penny since Maria Grazia Chiuri reissued it in 2018 - making it far too lucrative to pass on to a daughter.

"People's sense of ownership has changed," says Rachel Reavley, a former Vogue staffer and board member at Hewi, a family-run, UK-based resale site with particularly affluent clientele. (Hewi is short for Hardly Ever Worn It; more than 30 per cent of stock on the site has never been worn.) "When you've experienced shopping in a luxury re-commerce space, it really opens up your customer expectation. Then you start to look at things in your wardrobe, thinking, am I ever going to actually wear those Dior boots again? You go online, and as long as you've taken care of them, they've held their value. It's a win-win - you have the financial reward, the feel-good factor of participating in circular economy. Then, you might buy something else, and it feels guilt-free."

Resale is big business. The second-hand market is projected to double over the next five years, growing 11 times faster than the broader retail clothing sector to reach £67bn by 2025, according to a report by GlobalData and ThredUp. Why the boom? It must be said that women have been buying pre-loved fashion for decades; as far back as 1928, for instance, British Vogue was advertising 22 second-hand clothing dealers who could be trusted to discreetly dispose of last season's Chanel suit. But the key word there is "discreet".

Generation Z, who are primarily fuelling the growth in thrifting, are more likely to boast about their finds on social media than keep said item's second-hand status under wraps. "From the research that we did in collaboration with Depop, if you analyse the youngest generation, they don't have that stigma anymore," says Claudia D'Arpizio, luxury goods guru at management consulting firm Bain & Company. "It's clear they are also buying a lot of 'first-hand' products. But I think the stigma was more attached to previous generations."

After all, eschewing the brand-new is cheaper and less intimidating (in the case of luxury items) than hitting London's Bond Street or New York's Madison Avenue, and more sustainable: according to a Farfetch report, purchasing a pre-owned item on average saves 1kg of waste, 3,040 litres of water and 22kg of CO2, compared with a new item.

Then, there's the thrill of the chase. As Camille Charrière, journalist and influencer with an Instagram following of more than 1.2 million, and who regularly shops resale platforms for past-season pieces, puts it: "I get a lot of kicks from wearing things that no one else has got." Her most highly prized trophy is a one-of-a-kind John Galliano for Dior dress from the Noughties, a gift for a recent birthday. She relishes the time spent acquiring one-off pieces. "You don't need to buy the latest thing that's just come out to be able to be well-dressed," she says.

The pandemic has changed our world in myriad ways - but perhaps its biggest legacy for fashion will be the shift in mindset towards pre-loved products. Farfetch, for instance, has been selling pre-loved clothing alongside brand-new luxury stock since 2010, but 2020 was a clear turning point: pre-owned views increased 151 per cent year-on-year, with notable growth from March 2020 onwards, when the pandemic took hold. Moreover, it noted a 506 per cent increase in sales of pre-owned items valued at more than $10,000 (£7,253) from Q1 to Q4 of 2020. As Tom Berry, Farfetch's global director of sustainable business, notes: "Our pre-loved curation isn't necessarily targeted at a low-price offer. For us, people come for unique items, for great fashion, and it makes them feel better because it's sustainable." Customers have also been availing themselves of the "Second Life" service, where they can resell their luxury bags in return for Farfetch credit.

Net-a-Porter has been taking notes. Last October, it announced a resale pilot with Reflaunt, the tech company behind H&M's "Rewear" programme, offering customers the chance to sell well-preserved designer items in their wardrobes in exchange for store credit. And at Printemps in Paris, a new 13,000sq m floor entirely dedicated to vintage and thrifted clothing, as well as a new buy-back scheme opened in October, reportedly the biggest-ever space dedicated to second-hand fashion in a department store. Marie Blanchet's Mon Vintage, a high-end vintage service, is the star attraction, with its racks boasting original Versace bondage suits, Yves Saint Laurent safari dresses, and even the Jean Paul Gaultier cameo necklace from his spring/summer 1998 Hommage à Frida Kahlo collection, once worn by Madonna in the music video for 1998's "Frozen". "What we curate looks like it could be on the runway right now," says Blanchet. She believes the pandemic has fundamentally shifted the way we feel about new clothes. "Now, it's all about meaningful purchases. Vintage, in this sense, is a sustainable signifier. You are buying into a story, feeling unique, and wearing pieces that were made to last - the quality of fabrics on the whole is incredible."

Gucci wants in. Hot on the horsebit-adorned heels of Ridley Scott's House of Gucci - which stars Lady Gaga and is stuffed with throwback Gucci looks sourced from the house's vast archive in Florence, as well as vintage dealers, eBay and Etsy - in September it launched Vault. Billed as an online concept store, it is partly stocked with vintage items acquired from Italian grannies and auction houses alike, reconditioned by in-house artisans, and in some cases customised by creative director Alessandro Michele.

Vault is a no-brainer for the vintage-obsessed Michele: the pre-loved pieces reinforce the seasonless codes on which he has built his Gucci reboot. As he put it in an interview at Vault's launch: "Gucci turns one hundred this year, and it's the time to show everybody how beautiful it would be to give a second, a third life and more to old things that are the most beautiful." Having successfully reissued the archival Jackie, Horsebit 1955 and bamboo-handled Diana bags in recent years to monster sales figures, as well as revisiting 1990s hits from Tom Ford-era Gucci for its centenary Aria collection, stepping into resale won't feel like much of a stretch for Michele and CEO Marco Bizzarri. After all, it won't have escaped them that Prada's recent decision to reissue its signature nylon handbags from the 1990s and 2000s has resulted in the originals increasing in value by about 174 per cent, according to Rebag.

Read more: The 10 Key Spring/Summer 2022 Trends To Know Now

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The Rise Of Resale: How Second-Hand Became Fashion's First Port Of Call

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The best pre-loved fashion is no longer discovered only in IRL. Today's savviest fans are finding everything from vintage Alaïa to Zara in all corners of the digital shopping space.

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Fashion resale market grows as cost-conscious consumer emerges

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Fashion resale market grows as cost-conscious consumer emerges

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Fashion resale market grows as cost-conscious consumer emerges

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Fashion resale market grows as cost-conscious consumer emerges

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As discretionary income is squeezed, consumers are turning to alternative, cheaper methods of purchasing clothes, including the resale market.

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What’s driving the rise of pre-loved fashion?

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What’s driving the rise of pre-loved fashion?

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What’s driving the rise of pre-loved fashion?

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- mention of Love Island X Ebay

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What’s driving the rise of pre-loved fashion?

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As Ebay-sponsored reality show Love Island returns this week, Drapers explores what has been driving the growth of the pre-loved market.

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Glastonbury fashion: Festival fans turn to second-hand outfits

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Glastonbury fashion: Festival fans turn to second-hand outfits

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Glastonbury fashion: Festival fans turn to second-hand outfits

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Tent: check. Sun cream: check. The next thing: what am I going to wear?

With Glastonbury 2023 ready to start, festival season is well under way.

The festival prides itself on being eco-conscious, but how do fans plan their outfits sustainably?

Festival and concert fashion has become a huge part of event planning: a quick scroll on TikTok and you'll see cowboy hats and feather boas as the uniform for Beyoncé and Harry Styles concerts.

Jess Potter, 36, from Cardiff, will be going to Glastonbury with her online second-hand clothing business.

At the festival she will be hosting the second-hand style awards, where festival-goers will be judged on their best sustainable looks from the weekend.

Jess confesses she has not always been sustainable. During her first Glastonbury in 2014 she bought everything new, she used to be a "retail addict". That's where she met her now husband and business partner Davey, and they are now "on a journey to sustainability together".

The idea for UsedandLoved.com - a search engine tool that allows you to search for second-hand items all under one roof - came from a sleepless night idea, said Jess.

She said second-hand shopping was "all about finding your own style", and seeing content creators styling the outfits was key to changing people's attitudes on buying them.

In her spare time, Jess goes around Cardiff picking up bags of clothes that are left on the side of the road, which she sifts through and gives a new lease of life.

"I've found stuff from Ralph Lauren and Zara in them, all in really good condition," she said.

She plans to put the clothes found on the streets of Cardiff on display at Glastonbury with the idea that "they are free again and their destiny has been changed because they are going to get another life, and that clothes can live on for so long if you let them".

Bethany Lewis, from Swansea, planned her whole festival wardrobe via second hand shops and went on online clothes site Vinted for the In It Together festival in Margam, Neath Port Talbot.

When she booked for In It Together, she was adamant she would not buy anything new.

"I've never done a festival in that kind of heat before so I kind of took all the basics out of my wardrobe, so I mostly managed to use things I already owned," she said.

"But then, if I was looking for something specific, like I wanted like a mesh top to wear under an outfit so I went on Vinted, looking for stuff specifically.

Tent, wellies and booze

"Rather than buying it new, I knew that I got it cheaper. I was also reducing my impact on the environment by buying it."

Cost plays a part too, with tickets for festivals not cheap.

A ticket to Glastonbury would set you back £335 this year - and that's without buying your camping essentials like tent, wellies and booze (if that's your thing) - so many people try to use second-hand sites to get their outfits.

Caitlin Smith, a fashion blogger from Church Village, Rhondda Cynon Taf, who's based in London, said: "I don't tend to buy anything that doesn't work with at least five pieces in my wardrobe. So, if I'm looking for a festival 'fit, I'll only buy items that I know I'll wear again.

"I blame being a Capricorn for my frugality, so I don't like feeling like I've wasted money on something I'll wear once."

"I also tend to look for accessories or builder pieces that I can layer over things I already own. Accessorising and layering are such fun and easy ways to change up your look without having to buy a completely 'new' outfit."

Rachel Cosgrove-Pearce, the head of retail operations for Oxfam, said shopping second-hand was a great way to express individuality.

"For the festival season, a lot of the (Oxfam) shops will pull together festival-style windows to help people choose their outfits for going. They'll have festival displays inside and the beauty of shopping second-hand with Oxfam is that you can be your own stylist."

"You can go in, you shop in a variety of brands, you're not being influenced around the latest trends, and you can literally go and choose the pieces and create your own look unique for you.

"Everyone is more conscious than ever now about sustainability and by shopping with Oxfam not only are you going to look fabulous, and you know you're going to feel fabulous."

So that's the fashion advice. But what to do about the weather?

With Glastonbury predicted to be a scorcher, the advice is to try and pack for the heat - and if it does rain, trusty wellies and a raincoat will always be in style.

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Glastonbury fashion: Festival fans turn to second-hand outfits

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Why music lovers turn to second-hand clothes sites as they strive to become more sustainable.

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- Interesting insight into the minds of second hand shoppers
- Subject area I am knowledgable and passionate about
- I can interview consumers for primary research
- Will hopefully be able to get lots of survey results through facebook groups and friends and family
- The subject is very relevant with the sustainability issues of fast fashion and the cost of living crisis at the moment
- Access to books and documentaries on fast fashion as supporting evidence

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- Interview with Bernie
- Writing and releasing survey
- LO5 SMART plan
- Secondary research

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There’s been a 50 per cent increase in online searches for ‘second-hand clothing’ in the past year, according to analysis of Google search trends.

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There’s been a 50 per cent increase in online searches for ‘second-hand clothing’ in the past year, according to analysis of Google search trends.

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‘there’s been a 50 per cent increase in online searches for ‘second-hand clothing’ in the past year, according to analysis of Google search trends.‘

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'A massive change in attitudes'

Holly, owner of One Scoop Store in Stoke Newington, London said: "I've been selling second-hand clothing for 25 years, originally via eBay and market stalls.

"There's definitely been a massive change in attitudes towards second-hand clothing. The demand is huge now, and the sector is set to overtake fast fashion within the next couple of years - I definitely wouldn't have predicted this when I started selling vintage clothes aged 14!

"Consumers who previously wouldn't have considered secondhand are now actively shopping this way, I think largely due to the fact that stores like mine make it so easy to do so. Previously you would have to trawl charity shops and markets, now so many businesses are doing the hard work for you."

'A brand that provides a platform to SMEs'

Love Island's partnership with eBay has seen contestants on the show wearing stylish second-hand outfits from independent sellers on the ecommerce platform.

Alan Thomas, UK CEO at Simply Business, said: "Love Island is watched by so many across the UK, so I'm delighted to see that they have chosen to partner with a brand that provides a platform to SMEs. This has already had a direct influence on consumer searches - namely a 100 per cent increase in searches for 'sustainable brands' within the first week of the show airing. It's also promising to see in our data that there has been a 23 per cent rise in independent fashion SMEs in the past 12 months.

"Small businesses are vital to the UK economy. They're the lifeblood of our local communities and collectively contribute trillions of pounds a year in turnover. The uptick in sustainable fashion businesses is demonstrative of the growth and innovation that the UK's SME community is capable of, and it's never been more important for us to champion them."

If you're looking to start an online shop, our how-to guide has tips on setting up an ecommerce platform (including eBay) and other practical steps you need to know. And our guide to creating a sustainable fashion business includes tips and trends from independent businesses.
Have you got a sustainable fashion business? Let us know your experience in the comments section below.

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We've analysed the latest data to find out what this trend means for sustainable and vintage fashion small businesses.

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Help! I'm addicted to secondhand shopping apps

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Help! I'm addicted to secondhand shopping apps

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Demand for vintage clothing skyrockets during lockdown

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Demand for Vintage Clothing Skyrockets During Lockdown

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Demand for Vintage Clothing Skyrockets During Lockdown

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Consumers are being inspired by nostalgia for retro fashion during lockdown, with new research suggesting a soaring demand for vintage clothing in the UK.

According to UK vintage retailer Cloak Vintage, Google Shopping searches for vintage fashion has skyrocketed, due to the popularity of 1980s themed shows being binge-watched and an increase in online shopping.

Google Shopping searches for 'Vintage Shirts' increased by 94 percent in December 2020, and again by 50 percent in March 2021, while '80s Sweater' searches saw a "huge spike" in the last week of February.

Social media is also driving vintage demand, with the hashtag #VintageClothing and #VintageFashion both being used on more than 10 million posts in 2021.

Cloak Vintage explains that it is being driven by the popularity of 1980s shows like It's A Sin, with the hashtag #1980s being used for 2,056,250 posts, and #80sFashion for 1,735,984 posts.

Over the last six months, Cloak Vintage, known for selling retro clothing for men and women, has reported a 134 percent increase in revenue and an 80 percent increase in traffic.

Robert Wisely, managing director of Cloak Vintage, said in a statement: "The 1980s were a really iconic time for fashion, and it's amazing to see it coming back in such a big way. For a long time, muted colours and simple shapes were a big trend thanks to influencers like the Kardashians, but we're seeing a huge surge in bright, bold fashion that makes a statement.

"The popularity of shows like 'It's a Sin' and 'Stranger Things' has undoubtedly impacted our nostalgia for retro fashion, and combined with the time spent binge-watching due to lockdowns, and an increase in online shopping, we've seen a staggering spike in sales and traffic.

"It's great to see a move away from fast fashion, and into more eco-friendly and sustainable fashion options."

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Demand for vintage clothing skyrockets during lockdown

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Consumers are being inspired by nostalgia for retro fashion during lockdown, with new research suggesting a soaring demand for vintage clothing in the UK. According to UK vintage retailer Cloak Vintage, Google Shopping searches for vintage fashion has skyrocketed, due to the popularity of 1980s themed shows being binge-watched and an increase in online shopping.

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Family-run vintage clothing business takes Newbury by storm

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Family-run vintage clothing business takes Newbury by storm

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One family’s collective love for vintage fashion has spawned a new retail business that has taken Newbury by storm.

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This vintage clothing trend is taking Instagram by storm

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The way we view fashion is shifting, both IRL and online. Case in point: Instagram has seen a 36% increase in interest in eco-friendly buying, from 2021 to 2022, even though we're only a couple months into the new year.

Data shows an uptake in up-cycling and thrifting as Gen Z re-think their carbon footprint and look for more unique pieces, with nearly half of teens and young adults saying they are looking to sell their own items through a thrifting website.

Another huge trend on Instagram is vintage fashion, with users looking to influencers for their expertise and tips on how to overhaul their wardrobes the right way.

Kavita (opens in new tab), a full-time thrift content creator with 57k followers on Instagram, shares her insights, as well as who to follow and which vintage stores to buy from.

Q: Have you seen more people become interested in vintage fashion? What are the questions that you get asked the most?

A: Vintage fashion has become increasingly popular in the past years, and I have definitely seen a growth in my social media followers as I started featuring it more and more, especially through Instagram Reels. I'm mostly seeing that people are looking for where to buy second-hand clothing, so I try to be as informative as possible with the content I create, helping my followers find the best towns with vintage or thrift shops, what to look out for and which brands are good for vintage. I love to help people learn more about how they can differentiate when a specific material is vintage and share tips on the brands to look out for, such as M&S St Michael , how to know if an item is vintage and pay attention to the aesthetic and materials a specific piece is made of.
Q: Do you think it is important that people know/learn more about vintage and thrifted fashion and why?
A: It's important that people know what they're buying at all times. When it comes to thrift and vintage, you might find it challenging at first to discover the brands specifically dedicated to slow fashion. A lot of people also tend to ask me "Should I buy fast fashion if it's second-hand?" and the answer is "Yes". There's nothing wrong with buying fast fashion from second-hand shops. The trick is to learn how you can make little changes to these clothes - for example, changing the buttons and fixing the zips so they don't go to waste. Repairing clothes, rather than getting rid of them, is key.
Q: How are you currently using IG and what features are you finding useful, e.g. Reels/Stories? How is the app helping you connect with your followers?
A: Instagram Stories is the best place to engage with my community - it's very quick and interactive. It allows my followers to get involved with the latest trends I'm posting about, stay on top of what I'm up to, and engage through polls, quizzes, and questions. I love using a question box, it helps build stronger relationships with my audience. My audience's favourite thing is something I call 'Thrift or Miss' - a series that I started on Instagram where I go to thrift and charity shops in real time, take pictures of the items I choose to buy and poll my followers asking them 'Yes or No'. People love this because it's like they come shopping with me, helping me decide which item to buy or which outfit looks the best. People get incredibly excited because it's like going thrift shopping with your best friends, something lots of people have missed due to the pandemic and the social disconnection it has caused.
Q: What is your community most interested to hear about? What sort of content do you find they connect with best?
A: My followers love to interact with me through Instagram Reels as well. 'Come thrifting with me' is another content series I use to show where I am shopping. It offers a behind the scenes look of where to find the best thrifted treasures, what items to pick up or how to choose these unique outfits in a specific town or city. I also share styling content called 'Styling my Thrift or Miss' through Instagram Reels. This is based on the polls I run with my community to reveal the items they may or may not like depending on my buys. I then provide them with inspiration on how they can style their look - it is the interactive element of Reels that allows for more creativity when styling a vintage look for example. In fact, it is a great way to challenge people's perception on what looks good on a hanger versus when it's styled. That's a really important part of thrifting - you have to have a bit of vision!
Q: How did you get into vintage/thrift fashion and what do you find is unique about it?
A: I got into second-hand fashion when I was younger - I come from a family of 'thrifters'. A lot of people back in the day used to go car-booting in Chesterfield, and I would go with my family. At first, pre-loved shopping was primarily out of necessity, but as I grew older, I just fell in love with vintage as a style. Vintage fashion not only inspires me to be more creative and makes my wardrobe sustainable, but it also allows me to be unique and dress completely differently to everybody else. With second-hand and vintage clothes, it's very hard to be able to replicate someone else's outfit when you've thrifted it all, but that's where creativity comes in.
Q: Who are your favourite second-hand/vintage inspirations, e.g. any other creators/celebrities?
A: For more second-hand, vintage and sustainable fashion inspiration, here is a list of my go-to creators on Instagram:

The_rogue_essentials - Heidi, based in London, is an incredible ethical fashion expert who is on a mission to educate her community on the importance of shopping with more of a conscience.
Where do you look for the thrifted/vintage items and inspiration to share with your community? Do you find these items online, for example on IG, or in offline shops, or both?
A: If you're looking for inspiration for thrifted/vintage items, here's my advice on how to find it:

Dive into your favourite Instagram creator's styles - Look out for the items that your favourite creators are wearing and thrift their looks. You can do that by checking out on eBay or vintage online shops such as Depop. There are also many vintage creators who sell on Instagram to discover, so you can easily find out if your item is up for grabs or what's coming in through the posts they share.

While shopping offline - If you're thrifting in person be sure to look for the best places in town which offer the latest vintage picks and know what item you're after.

Q: What are the must-follow vintage/thrift shops in the UK that you'd recommend people to check out on IG and why?

A: My recommendation for the vintage/thrift shops that people should check out on Instagram are:

Selena's Shop - If you're looking for color, texture and print combined in glamorous '70s-centric edits, this Sheffield-based vintage shop is the go-to.

Fairygorlvintage - Check out this online vintage shop for cherry picked sustainable and ethical fashion looks and Y2K vibes.

NOSTALGIA by Erika - For some inspiring seasonal drops, Erika curates and sells vintage and preloved garments handpicked with love.

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This vintage clothing trend is taking Instagram by storm

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The way we view fashion is shifting, both IRL and online. Case in point: Instagram has seen a 36% increase in interest in eco-friendly buying, from 2021 to 2022, even though we're only a couple months into the new year.

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How Social Media transformed the Second Hand Market

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How Social Media transformed the Second Hand Market

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How Social Media transformed the Second Hand Market

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How Social Media transformed the Second Hand Market

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They are also very aware that Fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world, and since eco-friendly consuming has been a recurrent topic on social media, more teenagers and young adults are learning methods of making less impact in the environment and also keeping up with their styles, once again, making the second hand market grow very quickly in the past years.

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How digital is driving the acceleration of fashion resale | Econsultancy

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How digital is driving the acceleration of fashion resale?

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How digital is driving the acceleration of fashion resale?

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Resale is currently growing 11 times faster than the broader retail clothing sector, suggests new research on the second-hand clothing market. According to figures cited in ThredUp's latest report, the resale and traditional thrift market is predicted to be worth $84 billion by 2030 - more than double what the fast fashion market, at $40 billion, will be worth by the same year.

Last year, we explained how many retailers are looking into resale, as some, such as Levi's, launched their own second-hand offerings, while traditional charity shops like Oxfam made the shift online. Now, with high-profile acquisitions, and technology companies tapping into resale-as-a-service, there's been renewed acceleration within the resale market.

Growth of second-hand platforms being driven by social media

ThredUp states that the growth of the second-hand clothing market is being driven by younger consumers, with 40% of millennials and Gen Z consumers shopping secondhand clothing, shoes, or accessories in the past 12 months. Spurred on by the desire to save money and/or buy more sustainable fashion, young consumers are also using social media apps like TikTok and Snapchat to share in their love of thrifting and vintage clothing. The hashtag #secondhandfashion has 23.8m views on TikTok.

Fashion marketplace Poshmark recognises the opportunity afforded by social media platforms, having recently launched its own mini shop within Snapchat that allows consumers to browse and buy within the platform itself. As well as furthering Poshmark's ability to personalise content and connect with its existing community, the new channel will allow it to reach a higher percentage of younger consumers. Speaking to Forbes , Poshmark's chief marketing officer, Tristan Young, cemented this aim. "Poshmark mini will introduce millions of new shoppers to Poshmark while deepening its relationship with Gen Z, an important and fast-growing part of its community," he said.

Meanwhile, another company hoping to reach this valuable demographic is Etsy, which recently acquired the resale app Depop in a $1.6 billion cash deal. With 90% of Depop's userbase under the age of 26, Etsy looks set to capture a new audience (keeping Depop separate from the much older consumer base of its Etsy platform).

For young users, Depop's appeal stems from its highly social and highly curated aesthetic, whereby sellers are encouraged to use other social media platforms in conjunction with Depop to 'build their brand' and continue the lifecycle of clothing.

Looking for reworked handbags, who's selling? #depop pic.twitter.com/jzg4e9qWUj

- Depop (@depop) August 15, 2021

Indeed, Depop could be a profitable move for Etsy, as other second-hand platforms are proving the market's current and predicted strength. ThredUp revealed that its revenue grew by 26.7% in the second quarter of this year, reaching nearly $60 million. Similarly, Poshmark announced a 22% rise in net revenue to reach $81.8 million, while its active buyers were up 16% to seven million.

The emergence of resale-as-a-service

As the resale and rental market gains traction, we are also seeing retailers invest in their own services. Urban Outfitters is one such example, recently launching Nuuly Thrift - a website that enables customers to resell products from any brand (not just Urban Outfitters). According to a press release, customers will be able to transfer the money from any transaction made into their own bank account, or redeem them for 'Nuuly Cash', which will be worth 10% more at Nuuly Thrift and other Urban Outfitters brands.

Elsewhere, H&M has launched H&M Rewear in Canada, similarly enabling customers to buy and sell clothing online from any brands.

Of course, resale operations aren't easy from a logistical perspective, but it's no coincidence that multiple retailers are launching similar initiatives around the same time. The reason is that many are now partnering with new and emerging 'resale-as-a-service' companies that provide both the technology and operational expertise needed to run them. One of these tech companies is Reflaunt, who is behind H&M Rewear as well as Harvey Nichols' new resale service.

Speaking to Fashion United, Reflaunt's CCO and co-founder Felix Winckler describes the core proposition of Reflaunt as a platform "made to simplify the listing process." Essentially, Reflaunt acts as the 'middle man' for brands, taking care of the resale process on multiple second-hand platforms including eBay. Its USP is that it creates customer journeys in line with the brand's tone of voice and identity, ensuring that it blends in with its wider CX (and functions like customer support and marketing).

Another company offering resale-as-a-service is ThredUp, which recently announced that it is to acquire fashion resale business Remix Global AD, in a move that will see it continue its European expansion. Currently, ThredUp offers its technology and services (including fulfilment) to the likes of Fabletics, Urban Outfitters, and for the Madewell denim resale service. The latter enables customers to return any pair of worn denim jeans (from any brand) in exchange for $20 credit. From there, the denim goes through a quality checking process via ThredUp's distribution centre before being resold online or in select Madewell stores for a fraction of the original price.

Interestingly, it's not only fashion brands that are tapping into resale opportunities. Recently, LG announced a partnership with ThredUp as part of its 'Second Life' campaign, cementing the demand for sustainability initiatives across industries. The campaign will enable US customers to order a 'LG Donation Clean Out Kit', enabling them to ship any second-hand apparel, shoes, and accessories to ThredUp for free. In exchange, LG and thredUP will donate $5 to a select charity of the seller's choice, before giving the items a 'second life' and reselling them on the ThredUp marketplace.

Trove - the platform behind Lululemon and Levi's resale services - is another tech company gaining traction. Trove recently generated $77.5 million in funding, bringing its total amount to $122.5 million. According to Brook Porter, a founding partner at G2 Venture Partners, the reason that many more retailers are showing interest is to account for the lack of authority over the sale of their own second-hand goods elsewhere.

"Brands are all coming to the same realisation: They see massive amounts of their products on peer-to-peer websites and have no control," he told Business of Fashion. As a result, resale-as-a-service companies like Trove enable brands to take command of their product - as well as delivering wider benefits for the customer including sustainability and affordability.

What is ecommerce-as-a-service?

Using data to determine second-hand demand

A large percentage of luxury brands have steered clear of resale partnerships, with many believing that the second-hand market can diminish exclusivity as well as dilute the importance of new collections. However, technology platforms are trying to convince luxury brands that the market is now too big to ignore.

One example of this is The Archivist, which helps luxury brands 'reclaim' their products, mainly through data insights on how their products are faring outside of their own channels. Its Resale Intelligence solution monitors what products are selling and where, and helps brands find and take action on the sale of counterfeit goods. According to Vogue Business, future services from The Archivist will also include "in-store buy-backs, a branded secondhand marketplace, and a peer-to-peer marketplace for buying and selling."

With demand for second-hand luxury fashion on the rise, authenticity and control (powered by data) could become a key differentiator for retail brands enabling the sales of second-hand fashion.

Similarly, for The Archivist and other resale-as-a-service companies, the ability to help retail brands draw back consumers from rival second-hand marketplaces - and crucially, win loyalty - is likely to further generate investment in the space.

For more on the latest trends in online retail, don't miss Econsultancy Live 2021: The Future of Ecommerce, taking place from 23-24 November. Early-bird passes are available now.

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How digital is driving the acceleration of fashion resale

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With high-profile acquisitions and new technology resale-as-a-service companies emerging - there's been renewed acceleration within the fashion resale market. Here's a look at what's been happening.

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- Conducted interview with Daisy, manager of Naomi House store.
- SMART plan LO3 + LO4
- Filled out and uploaded Ethical Forms
- Secondary Research
- Sustainability panel

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Neelam Melwani- senior manager of circular economy and sustainability at Deloitte.

Is the current economic crisis making people shop less sustainably?

That’s what’s great about the retail market, M&S work with Dotty. There are more options now in terms of second hand. Apps like Vinted make life very simple for shopping second hand.

Do you think selling luxury fashion second hand changes the ideals that luxury fashion portrays?
People are beginning to enjoy attaching stories to second hand items and refurbishing them. I own a collection of handbags that were passed down to me which I love because they’re vintage.

Improving care labels would help increase the longevity of clothing, if people knew how to look after them better they would last longer and change people’s perspective on what they buy.

Sustainability is too hard to understand and it is not fully understood or appreciated by consumers, brands and suppliers?
It’s very challenging to keep within guidelines (CMA) and tell customers about a very complex topic and get the message across to consumers. We are trying hard to come up with new ways to tell each and every customer about it in a way they understand.

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- It is an area of interest for many people so I will need to work hard to make it stand out.
- I will need to come to an interesting conclusion to make it worth the while of the reader.
- It is heavily opinion based so I will need enough primary research to support these opinions and make them reliable.

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UK consumer interest in second-hand clothes set to surge - report

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“In a poll conducted by waste management agency, BusinessWaste.co.uk, a large proportion of the 1,500 respondents (45%) said they would buy clothes that had been pre-owned.“

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UK consumers are switching on to second-hand clothing in ever larger numbers as their interest in fast fashion wanes, a new report claims. In a poll conducted by waste management agency, BusinessWaste.co.uk, a large proportion of the 1,500 respondents (45%) said they would buy clothes that had been pre-owned. The researchers said that this mirrors other studies that show that the second-hand clothing market is "set to double in the next five years."

Fast fashion has seen plenty of negative publicity in recent years based on its environmental footprint and conditions for workers in the supply chain. This has shone the spotlight on the second-hand channel, which has transformed itself at the same time. Not so many years ago, it was all about either vintage, or newer pieces bought at jumble sales/boot sales largely because they were very cheap. But with today's consumers more eco aware and eBay and various resale sites making second-hand the first choice for some, it has evolved noticeably.

BusinessWaste said "consumers are beginning to shake off their prejudices about wearing second-hand clothing. While just 20% said they currently regularly buy second-hand clothes, a huge amount said they could be influenced to start doing so."

But where would such includes come from. Some 90% of people said that if friends or family started buying second-hand, they might do too. A bigger 94% said they'd be influenced by celebrities (which is worth bearing in mind for brand marketing around sustainability), and only 6% said nothing would influence them to ever buy second-hand.

It's interesting too that the strongest pro-second-hand attitudes seem to be among the youngest and oldest consumers. As many as 80% of those aged 16 to 21 and 91% of those over 60 are at ease with the concept. But the average across all age groups is only 45%, suggesting that many of those in-between still see second-hand clothing as second-best.

Communications director Mark Hall said: "Older people are used to buying clothes that were made to last and passing hand-me-downs through families, which explains this age group's willingness to buy second-hand. And, on the other end of the scale, young people are increasingly environmentally conscious, which could certainly influence their shopping decisions and cause them to turn away from fast fashion. However, those in their 30s and 40s are perhaps of a generation more used to consumerism - it's certainly an interesting generational divide."

Of those who said they would be happy to buy second-hand garments, there was a clear consensus that image played a part - with charity shops still carrying a slight stigma. Only 62% said they would be happy to purchase from charity shops - much lower than the 80% who would buy second-hand from a high street retailer.

Hall added: "People are turning to second-hand clothing - not just out of financial necessity, but out of choice. There's a huge opportunity here for retailers to improve their green credentials and tap into a growing number of consumers who would like to buy stylish clothing, but without the ethical concerns. Some well-known retailers already feature vintage or pre-loved selections in store and there's clearly room for these to be more widely available - consumers still have the benefit of shopping curated lines of [second-hand] pieces in line with their preferred style, but without the environmental impact."

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UK consumer interest in second-hand clothes set to surge - report

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News industrie : Interest in second-hand clothing is rising fast among the young as eco awareness combines with thrift and a thriving resale sector to suggest explosive future growth in this area. (#1082313)

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- Where second hand shopping began
- The reasons for 2nd hand shopping (fast fashion and the negative impact on the planet, trendy, cost of living crisis)
- The impact of resale apps such as Vinted and Depop
- The rise in popularity of vintage clothing
- The attitudes towards 2nd hand shopping over time
- The increase of fast fashion in charity shops

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- Survey’s and questionnaires

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- Qualitative surveys: open-ended questions, typed answers, revealing opinions and experience. Often used before focus groups and interviews
- Focus groups: 3+ people, unstructured and free flowing.

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Interview questions for charity shop manager - Daisy

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Interview questions for charity shop manager - Daisy

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What demographic frequents your store most?

Do you see more Gen-Z shoppers than you used to?

Do you think consumers have a more positive attitude towards second hand clothing than they used to?

Do you think there used to be stigma surrounding shopping in charity shops? If yes why and do you think this has changed?

Do you think shopping second hand has become more normalised? Why?

As a Gen-Z, what made you want to work in a charity shop?

In your opinion, what are the main reasons for consumers buying preloved clothing instead of new?

Do you shop second hand? If so, what is your reasoning?

Do you think the increase in popularity of resale apps such as Vinted and Depop has had any affect on charity shops?

Do you think that the increase in popularity of vintage clothing has had any affect on charity shops?

What affect do you think social media has had on consumer attitudes to shopping second hand?

In your opinion, what are the pros and cons of buying clothes in charity shops?

How would you encourage more people to buy their clothes second hand?

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How old are you?

What gender do you identify as?

Do you buy secondhand clothing?

What is your preferred type of secondhand shopping?

What are your reasons for buying secondhand clothing?

Has social media had any influence on your opinion of secondhand clothing?

Is there anything that discourages you from shopping secondhand? If so, what?

Do you think shopping secondhand previously had negative association/stigma?

Which statement best describes your opinion on secondhand clothing?

Has your view on secondhand shopping changed over time?

Do you think that shopping secondhand has been normalised?

In your opinion, what are the main factors increasing the popularity of secondhand clothing?

How do you think more people could be encouraged to shop secondhand?

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- Overview of secondhand fashion market, consumer based
- Mention themes of sustainability, the economy, vintage, social media, resale apps.
- Set the landscape of the secondhand market

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Love Island's Tasha Ghouri turns heads in a hot pink mini dress at LFW

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Love Island's Tasha Ghouri turns heads in a hot pink mini dress as she walks the runway at Oxfam's Fashion Fighting Poverty show

Tasha Ghouri turned heads as she took to the runway at Oxfam's London Fashion Week show on Thursday.

The former Love Islander, 24, put on a leggy display in a hot pink mini dress at the charity's Fashion Fighting Poverty show, at Phonica in London.

The event was Oxfam's third fashion show and aimed to change the perception that second-hand is 'second best', and shine a light on the environmental importance of shopping pre-loved.

And taking to the runway, Tasha looked sensational as she strutted her stuff.

The professional dancer showed off her incredible figure in the ruffled mini dress which was embellished with a cute bow on her chest.

The TV personality styled her long blonde tresses in luxurious waves and added a chic silver hairband with jewels on top.

She showed off her beauty in a dazzling palette of make up, winged eyeliner and a soft pink lip.

The beauty added inches to her gorgeous figure in a pair of silver strappy heels, also embellished with a bow on the front.

Making a quick change behind-the-scenes, Tasha then came out in a chic plaid suit.

Tasha teamed a matching blazer and high-waisted trousers with a gorgeous green shirt underneath.

Leaving the collar up, she showed off the dramatic look.

Her tresses were kept the same, but she removed the hairband as she opted for a smarter look.

This time she opted for simple black heels to lift her figure.

Also making her appearance on the runway was a pregnant Daisy Lowe, who looked sensational.

The model, who recently celebrated her 34th birthday, showed off her blossoming baby bump in a black velvet zip dress.

She put on a busty display in the black long-sleeved number, which had a zip running down the middle of the dress.

Daisy looked chic as she paired the look with black tights and chunky black boots.

She accessorised the outfit with a simple red bracelet and styled her long dark tresses poker straight.

Tasha's appearance comes after she enjoyed a romantic Valentine's Day date night with boyfriend Andrew Le Page at The Gherkin on Tuesday.

The Love Island couple turned heads in eye catching bold Valentine's-themed outfits as they headed out for the evening in central London.

Tasha made sure all eyes were on her as she wowed in a tiny red crop top, which showcased her incredible figure.

She displayed her toned midriff in the racy halterneck top, she teamed with a matching low rise maxi skirt.

The couple, who found fame on ITV's Love Island last summer, couldn't contain their smiles as they walked hand-in-hand to the lavish restaurant.

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Love Island's Tasha Ghouri turns heads in a hot pink mini dress at LFW

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Tasha Ghouri turned heads as she took to the runway at Oxfam's London Fashion Week show on Thursday. The former Love Islander, 24, put on a leggy display in a hot pink mini dress at the charity's Fashion Fighting Poverty show, at Phonica in London.

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- I have the opportunity to show my knowledge of this subject area and write a gripping piece that shows my talents for both writing, current affairs in fashion and creativity.
- I could make this really visually interesting and appealing to show off my editing and artistic skills.
- I have the opportunity to speak to people within the industry as well as getting a better understanding of 2nd hand fashion consumers.
- This will be a great way to gain in depth knowledge about the sustainable future of fashion and the direction it is headed which could really help me going into a fashion brand for my career.