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Inclusive marketing is marketing that includes diversity, anywhere from your brand and company's internal structure to external ad campaigns.

"You can have diversity and you can have equity, but if you don't have inclusion, it's not sustainable," Jameka Pankey, the Head of Global Change Management, Operations, and Strategic Events at Amazon Web Services, told Amazon Ads prior to the 2022 Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity. "For example, if you come to a party, you can walk in a room and have diversity. You have guests from different backgrounds, ethnicities, religions, and ages, but you can still walk in and not feel included ... and inclusion matters. You build sustainability and have cultural change with inclusion and making others feel like they belong. We don't want to just invite you to the party; we want to ask you to dance. We want to see if you want something to eat. We want to make you feel engaged. We're going to say to you, 'Hey, what should the DJ be playing?'"

Internally, it's crucial that your work culture embraces DEI but that it also applies externally. Inclusive content means that you're creating brand messaging and advertising that both depicts and relates to a broad audience. This type of content can help your customers feel appreciated and included. According to that same Amazon Ads and Environics study, 7 in 10 consumers say DEI is an important factor when choosing a brand to purchase from, and 45% of consumers said they're willing to pay more for a product from a brand that reflects and promotes DEI. ²

Advertising can be more inclusive by incorporating more voices, creative, and perspectives that are representative of a wider audience. For example, in ad campaigns, inclusivity could mean including diverse imagery and language.

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The importance of diversity and inclusion in marketing and advertising

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Inclusive marketing is marketing that includes diversity, anywhere from your brand and company's internal structure to external ad campaigns. "You can have diversity and you can have equity, but if you don't have inclusion, it's not sustainable," Jameka Pankey, the Head of Global Change Management, Operations, and Strategic Events at Amazon Web Services, told Amazon Ads prior to the 2022 Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity.

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Let's talk about inclusive marketing campaigns

Inclusive marketing campaigns will speak to all groups of people, including marginalised and underrepresented groups. But they'll do so in a way that breaks stereotypes. They'll tell your audience that you see them and really understand them - for real.

Going above and beyond, truly inclusive marketing will elevate the voices of people that are typically underrepresented.

Embracing diversity in marketing and advertising isn't about simply including diverse people in your images. It's not about ticking the boxes of diversity. Rather, it's about reflecting and connecting with your audiences. As people, we do this by getting to know one another on a personal level. In inclusive marketing, it's the same but on a brand to consumer level.

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Understanding inclusive marketing and how you can get it right

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Let's talk about inclusive marketing campaigns Inclusive marketing campaigns will speak to all groups of people, including marginalised and underrepresented groups. But they'll do so in a way that breaks stereotypes. They'll tell your audience that you see them and really understand them - for real.

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In a time where diversity, equality, and inclusion (DEI) has become a focus area for big corporations across different industries, the fashion world is struggling to catch up.

Historically, the fashion world hasn't led the best example in terms of diversity and inclusion. It was quite common to see only a specific type of body shape and skin colour being featured on runways and in fashion magazines.

The situation's slowly improving, but there's still a lot to do in terms of inclusive fashion .

The fashion world needs to ramp up its focus on diversity and inclusion to broaden its perspectives and increase the size of its talent pool.

Let's do a deep dive into the state of inclusivity in fashion and whether we have reason enough to be hopeful in 2022.
How has the fashion world fared on inclusivity till now?
Despite regular calls for inclusion and growing awareness about DEI trends, the fashion world has had its fair share of slip-ups.

For instance, Gucci featured a black turtleneck with a bold red opening for the mouth among its designs in 2018. While the brand claimed that the piece was inspired by a vintage ski mask, it horrifyingly resembled the racist practice of blackface.

To give credit where it's due, the fashion industry has been making gradual progress, but there is still a long way to go.

According to a research study by McKinsey, every two in three African-origin employees reported having faced increased pressure to perform because they were the only minority in their group.

The study also disturbingly reported that employees of colour were still being judged using higher standards compared to other employees.
What is fashion inclusivity in 2022?
Before you make a fashion brand inclusive, you need to understand the concept of fashion inclusivity first.

Simply put, inclusive fashion includes clothes that are for everyone irrespective of their body shape, size, ethnicity and gender. Genuine fashion inclusion involves creating aesthetically pleasing clothes that allow everyone to feel seen and heard, including those with disabilities.

Fashion inclusivity isn't restricted to just garment designs in 2022. It also includes ensuring people of all races and those with special abilities get a seat at the table and are valued for their contributions.

Important considerations for becoming an inclusive fashion brand

With so many body sizes, races, and groups of people to consider, it can be tougher than it seems to create a truly inclusive fashion brand.

Here are some important questions to consider while working on inclusivity and diversity for a fashion brand.

1. Is there enough diversity in the company's C-suite and senior management

2. Is the senior management doing enough to be an ethical and sustainable brand?

3. Does the brand's recruitment process encourage diverse hires and applicants?

4. Is the company culture based on the celebration of differences among the employees? Or does the brand try to mold its employees into a series of pre-decided checkboxes?

How can a fashion brand be more inclusive in 2022?
While incorporating inclusivity in a fashion brand can seem like a lot of effort, it is worth it. Customers are increasingly flocking toward brands that value diversity and inclusion.

Building an inclusive brand can improve your reputation as a socially responsible company that puts in effort for its customers. This can boost your sales and make your marketing much easier.

However, the question remains-how do you bring about inclusivity in a fashion brand? Here are some useful suggestions.

1. Be thorough with your cultural intelligence research

2. Understand the reality of your audience and feature them in your marketing communications

3. Plan and prepare for inclusive designs before launching them

4. Evaluate if you have the kind of financial resources you need for inclusive designs

5. Collaborate with other inclusive brands to bolster your reputation

Examples of successfully inclusive fashion brands in the UK
Apart from following the above-mentioned strategies, another way is to follow in the footsteps of existing brands that are acing the inclusivity game. Here are some of the most inclusive fashion brands in the UK that are leading the way with DEI.

1. The Crumb Agency, a modelling agency that gives opportunities to models from the LGBTQIA community irrespective of their body shapes and sizes.

2. Zebedee Management, a fashion talent organisation that champions diversity by including trans/non-binary models and those with disabilities.

3. Ellie Goldstein, a successful British model with Down Syndrome and the first disabled model to partner with Gucci.

4. Teen Vogue, a popular fashion magazine that often features models with different disabilities on its front covers.

5. The Gentlewoman, another fashion magazine that celebrates diversity in modern women.

How can you contribute to the cause of inclusivity in fashion?

If you are passionate about the fashion industry and want to do your bit to make it more inclusive, you can start with a master's in fashion management .

A master's in fashion business will help you get acquainted with all the latest industry trends, including DEI and sustainability. It will also help you learn how to come up with effective business strategies revolving around these trends.

The London College of Contemporary Arts (LCCA) offers a great MA in Fashion Business and Management programme, which can be an ideal fit. The course can help you provide a comprehensive view of the fashion industry within a global context.

Click to enrol in the fashion business course at LCCA and be the face of inclusive fashion in the future.

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Is The Fashion Industry Becoming More Inclusive In 2022 | LCCA

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In a time where diversity, equality, and inclusion (DEI) has become a focus area for big corporations across different industries, the fashion world is struggling to catch up. Historically, the fashion world hasn't led the best example in terms of diversity and inclusion.

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Is the Fashion Industry as inclusive and diverse as they market themselves to be (2)

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Is the Fashion Industry as inclusive and diverse as they market themselves to be (3)

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Being aware of current marketing trends as they pertain to your industry can be pivotal in regards to achieving success and one of the fastest-growing trends in recent years has been inclusive marketing. This is especially the case when we refer to fashion brands.

Now it may seem slightly reductive to refer to inclusive marketing as a trend but, with today's younger consumers in particular, the importance of it cannot be overstated in relation to your brand growth. In fact, 93 percent of marketers believe that inclusive marketing is vital for the company potential it represents. Although one in four people are living with a disability, only one per cent of adverts represent them.

Diversity in the fashion industry

Let's start by looking at inclusivity in the fashion industry. The fashion sector has long been one that comes under scrutiny, and the call for diversity has been a loud one in recent years. A recent study from McKinsey & Company, called the State of Diversity, Equity & Inclusion in Fashion survey, reported on this.

There are some interesting findings. For example, 68 per cent of black employees report greater inaccessibility to the fashion sector in comparison to white employees. This shows that there is still work that needs to be done.

What is Inclusive Marketing?

Inclusive marketing is exactly what it sounds like. It involves creating content that truly reflects the diverse communities of people who may buy your products. This means featuring and including imagery and advertising that connects and resonates with all people no matter what their race, ethnicity, gender identity, age, religion, ability, sexual orientation or any other way they may characterise themselves. As a company, diversity and inclusion marketing should be a definitive pillar of your brand ethos and messaging strategies.

Another one of the inclusive brands definition is to focus on elevating and promoting diverse voices and role models while also decreasing any cultural bias as you look to lead positive social change through thoughtful and respectful content from which no one can be offended.

Why Inclusive Marketing is Important?

This aspect of marketing is becoming increasingly important as more and more consumers are being swayed by a brand's values as opposed to just their products. Inclusive marketing statistics show that in total 44% of consumers claim that it's important for the values of a brand to align with their own, rising to 52% amongst Millennials. Essentially, if your brand is looking to target the younger generations, inclusive marketing is an absolute must in order to secure their attention.

This goes further than just values however as the diversity and inclusion needs to be a cornerstone of your visual branding and overall aesthetic. According to a 2016 study from Shutterstock, results showed that 88% of marketers surveyed agreed that using a more diverse range of images can help a brand's reputation whilst 41% now believe it's important to represent modern-day society in marketing imagery, much higher than was previously the case.

Beyond just merely showcasing diverse people, lives and voices, the best inclusive marketing campaigns will elevate the stories of people who traditionally have been marginalised or underrepresented. In turn, this will help create deeper connections with your customers, and, when done well, can even influence positive conversations that lead to social change.

How is inclusive marketing achieved?

There are three key elements of an inclusive marketing strategy. These are as follows:

1. Unite people with things they have in common - We are all different, but we all have things in common. It's about finding that middle ground, without assuming that everyone is the same. Avoid stereotypes and assumptions.

2. Highlight real stories - Another way of being inclusive is by highlighting real stories that people experience from all walks of life, across all 'groups' of people.

3. Solve for your customers - Solve for ALL of your customers. To do this, you need to understand that people have different pain points and issues.

The Principles of Inclusive Marketing

Essentially, there are several key principles concerning how to create an inclusive marketing strategy in order to be successful. Namely, these include:

Tone: The overall tone of a piece of marketing concerns the style, sentiment and subject of the piece. This is something that should be considered in the creation stage of the process to ensure everything remains respectful.

Context: Context involves everything that surrounds your piece of content. This can include historical or cultural context and is a particularly nuanced aspect. Understanding the context in which your content is placed can help it to be as inclusive as possible.

Representation: This includes the visual presence of variety in your content - something incredibly important regarding any marketing strategies for fashion brands. Representation has incredible power and people from all walks of life want to see themselves reflected in the media.

Language: We all know the influence words can have. Careful consideration of every word, phrase, quote or symbol at each stage of the marketing process can help your content be considered truly inclusive.

Appropriation: This principle involves avoiding taking or using aspects of a minority culture without knowing or honouring the true meaning of it. Many influences and brands have suffered because of campaigns which were considered to appropriate a culture so seeking guidance and diverse opinion of a piece of content before publishing is a critical step in the process.

Stereotypes: Ads or content that reaffirms harmful or prejudiced stereotypes can be incredibly toxic. Your marketing should seek to shatter stereotypes in order to affect society for the better.

Inclusive marketing strategies

Let's take a look at some strategies for inclusive clothing brands and fashion businesses.

Be thoughtful about visuals - When it comes to digital advertising, visuals are incredibly important. Videos, graphics, and photos are a way of instantly hooking the viewer and making them want to find out more. However, you could push people to bounce instead of buy if your imagery is not inclusive.

Celebrate more than "major" holidays - It is common for businesses to celebrate major holidays, such as Christmas and Valentine's Day. But why stop here? Instead, acknowledge or celebrate holidays that focus on marginalised or diverse groups of people.

Avoid stereotypes - You must avoid employing appropriation and stereotypes. This can offend people and get your business in hot water. Keep nuance, context, and empathy at the top of your mind when you are brainstorming marketing initiatives.

Use inclusive language - Finally, make sure your messaging does not contain any references, slang, or other verbiage that discriminates against certain people. Make sure your marketing contains inclusive language, as well as your website copy and job descriptions.

Marketing Tips for Fashion Brands

As a fashion brand, focusing on inclusive marketing is vital to your success. So let's outline a few handy tips that can help you get on your way and connecting with your consumers in a more meaningful way:

Promote Body Positivity: Seeing models all of one size or ethnicity can turn off potential consumers as they will associate your products with an idealised, unattainable standard of beauty. This is a huge proportion of potential customers you are potentially turning away. Take the plus size market statistics as an example which suggest that it has a potential $20 billion market opportunity for companies that are willing to involve themselves in it.

Celebrate Variety: Building upon this idea, if you want to connect with consumers all over the world then you will need to create campaigns that highlight a variety of different communities and cultures.

Emphasise Reality: Using real people in your campaigns as opposed to models or celebrities can build a deeply rooted, emotional connection with consumers. You are celebrating who they are and, in turn, they will celebrate your company for doing this.

Do Thorough Research: Extensive research can ensure that you are fully aware of all cultural intricacies before you even begin production of your campaign. By doing this accurately you can ensure that any potential insensitivities or appropriations are prevented from making it to the final iterations.

Prioritise Values: Reaffirming and emphasising the values you share with your customers through your products and messaging can be a great way to connect with them on a deeper level. Instead of focusing purely on your products, explain how they will feel when using them and how they reflect the values and mission statement of your company itself.

5 Brands That Got Inclusive Marketing Right

More and more brands are beginning to focus on inclusive marketing so let's take a look at some examples of the companies that were able to achieve great results and connect with their audience by being truly inclusive:

Lively: As companies like Victoria's Secret are beginning to wane in popularity due to their lack of relatability and inclusivity, Lively has seen success after success by involving women of all shapes and sizes in their marketing. Honing in on female positivity and empowerment, the company grew by 300% in 2017 alone. It isn't just in the content of their ads or website that reinforces their brand mentality, Lively run a podcast on their site and stage events and experiences for their consumers to participate in.

Coca-Cola: Since the days of the 'I'd Like to Buy the World a Coke' advert, Coca-Cola has looked to promote inclusivity within their brand. In a recent advert aired during the Super Bowl, the company once again championed inclusion by using non-gender specific pronouns. By having a genuine understanding of the strength which words can have on their audience, they were able to connect with consumers who may have previously felt alienated with other brands.

Bumble: Bumble illustrated the importance of involving real people in a marketing campaign with their 'Find Me On Bumble' approach. In this campaign, they launched a webpage, videos and an Instagram account, all to highlight inspiring people from New York. Letting genuine people tell their stories themselves was more effective than any number of scripted productions ever could be as Bumble celebrated the everyday people who make up their app.

Fenty Beauty: By researching different demographics and listening carefully to customer needs, Fenty Beauty were able to discover underserved and underrepresented consumers in the makeup sector. They developed a line of products specifically for people with skin colours that weren't traditionally served by the mainstream industry and involved them in the marketing process. With over $100 million in sales after just 40 days on the market, Fenty Beauty displayed the overwhelming power that inclusive marketing can have.

Maltesers: Being inspired by the stories from people with a variety of disabilities and celebrating their capabilities and successes, Maltesers' campaign 'Look on the Light Side of Disability' focused on empowerment and positivity in relation to the disabled community.

Inclusive Marketing 2023

In 2023, inclusivity in marketing will be more important than ever before, and if companies fail to incorporate it into their overall approach there can be severe consequences. In fact, 57 per cent of customers are more loyal to brands that are committed to addressing social inequities in their actions.

For fashion brands, in particular, not adhering to an inclusive philosophy will see them lose a number of potential customers to competitors who do champion inclusivity and positive messaging.

However, by following the example of the companies listed in this article as well taking on board the main tips and principles that can lead to engaging and authentic inclusive marketing strategies, your fashion brand will be connecting with people from every walk of life in no time at all.

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Inclusive Marketing: How Fashion Brands Can Achieve Hefty Results

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Being aware of current marketing trends as they pertain to your industry can be pivotal in regards to achieving success and one of the fastest-growing trends in recent years has been inclusive marketing. This is especially the case when we refer to fashion brands. Now it may seem slightly reductive to refer to inclusive marketing ...

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It takes a lot to become a fashion photographer.

Good networking, editorials, investments, the art of negotiating, and a lot of admin work unless you hire an agent to deal that for you, which is not a practical option for many beginner photographers.

Key takeaway is to work in photography studios before freelancing to gain experience, build a good network and to avoid extra equipment costs.

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Whether it's the stylist pulling your looks for the shoot or the model wearing them, you need a solid circle of reliable collaborators-sustaining those takes a particular set of social skills. "Especially in fashion, it's all about who you meet," Nuding says. "Building up your relationships is the most important thing, you want to grow together."

Don't underestimate the admin, invest in editorials, protect yourself during client negotiations and build your network: it's obvious a photography career in fashion takes a lot more than talent and it's not something that happens overnight. "But not everyone can afford to hold out," Nuding observes.

The photographer raises an important question. You need to invest a lot of time and money at the start of your career. That option is not available to everyone and there might be a sea of young talent that never gets the opportunity to show their worth. A cost the fashion industry should start taking into consideration.

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WePresent | A how-to guide for becoming a fashion photographer.

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Ever wondered how to become a successful fashion photographer? In this series with 1 Granary, freelancers who shoot for a living tell us how. Read now.

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Consumer consciousness has grown exponentially in recent years, with Generation Z voices and the sociopolitical movements of this century taking center stage across all forms of social media.

The fashion industry specifically has faced a broad array of criticisms involving diversity, inclusivity, ethicality and sustainability, and while fashion brands have made progressive efforts previously unheard of, there is still a long way to go.

Diversity and inclusivity have become essential components of online retail for fashion consumers. Brands that acknowledge the need for racial diversity, body inclusivity, sexual representation and representation of the disabled community are not only necessary but are the future of fashion.

One of the first culprits of fashion inclusivity was and still is size inclusion. The narrative of skinny, long-legged models with light skin and sharp features is slowly disappearing in favor of the body positivity movement, whereby women and men of all body types and sizes are represented.

The unrealistic beauty standards of sizes U.S. 0-4 are no longer tolerated by the public, and the body positivity movement is the "largest push-back against a lack of diversity and positive self-images in the fashion industry," according to Luxiders Magazine.

Body positivity was one of the first aspects of fashion inclusivity to be highlighted in the public eye, largely because traditional modeling agencies wanted " white, skinny, young and female."

The narrative of slim, Euro-centric beauty being the standard contributed greatly to the lack of self-esteem so vividly present in both men and women. According to Park Nicollet Melrose Center, nearly 70% of perfectly healthy women desire to be thinner and 80% simply " don't like how they look. "

Size inclusivity is only one part of the problem. What faces a growing demand now is the need for diversity in the fashion industry, specifically racial and ethnic diversity.

According to The Business of Fashion, the practice of " occasionally putting a non-white face on a magazine cover " is no longer enough, nor has it ever been. Fashion is meant to reflect the audience for which it serves, and that means finally representing people of color community rather than exclusively targeting white people.

Racial and ethnic diversity isn't just confined to models; true diversity means hiring non-white stylists, designers, directors and producers. It means building fashion agencies with both diverse staff and diverse models, because doing so brings in " diversity in perspective. "

Allowing men and women of color to not only model but construct, design and produce fashion campaigns connects communities across the human-made obstacle of race.

Most importantly, diversity in fashion opens the door for people of color to enter mainstream media where they sorely wish to see faces and struggles that resemble their own. It helps make a fragmented community whole.

Inclusivity, however, doesn't end there. Representation of the LGBTQ+ community is also integral to the future of fashion, and given that this community's cumulative spending power would represent the fourth-largest economy in the world, the fashion industry better start
listening to this neglected demographic.

The lack of personalization in fashion is an ever-present issue for the LGBTQ+ community, particularly for the younger population. Consumers are forced to decide between two genders regardless of whether they identify with either one and, for young individuals who are still figuring out both their sexual and personal identity, this is extremely limiting. Modeling has failed similarly, with many transgender and non-binary models feeling " forced to conceal their identities " in order to obtain success in the fashion industry, according to Women's Wear Daily. Members of the LGBTQ+ community should not have to hide their sexuality or gender to succeed.

When individuals who struggle similarly can succeed in a world as cut-throat as high fashion, it opens the door to a whole new market of consumers who wish to support the fashion they see themselves represented in.

This is also true for people with disabilities, who are " often ignored in the world of fashion" despite having an estimated population of 1 billion, according to Glamour. There exists an enormous lack of representation for the disabled.

Seeing models in wheelchairs, with canes or wearing colostomy bags, among other types of physical disabilities, are images that disabled individuals are only now just barely seeing in the fashion industry. ASOS, for example, only recently featured a model with a cochlear implant, which is laudable enough, but truly is the bare minimum.

Another enormous issue is the genuine lack of clothing options that disabled individuals have.

Take blogger Nicola Lavin, for instance. Her struggle with Lyme disease means that she requires functional clothing that can account for her temperature irregularities as well as her fluctuating weight gain. Requesting clothes that account for this, however, means that they will be " difficult to find " and "will often cost more in specialist shops," Lavin said as reported by Glamour.

Therein lies the flaws of the fashion industry, and it is high time for these flaws to be fixed. Inclusivity and diversity are dedications that must be committed to in every aspect of the fashion industry, from employees to models to vendors and producers. It can no longer be a "side project."

The good news is that committing to increased inclusivity and diversity, while most certainly not easy, will permit long-lasting social change and heaping benefits for both companies and consumers.

Consumers will be provided with positive representation and necessary options, and companies will " win the hearts of consumers and employees alike," Forbes reported.

Broader markets and better products mean higher profits and, best of all, the fashion industry will finally be making amends and doing right by its consumers.

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Inclusive fashion is more than just size

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Consumer consciousness has grown exponentially in recent years, with Generation Z voices and the sociopolitical movements of this century taking center stage across all forms of social media. The fashion industry specifically has faced a broad array of criticisms involving diversity, inclusivity, ethicality and sustainability, and while fashion brands have made progressive efforts previously unheard...

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Discrimination and under-representation continues to pervade the UK fashion industry - a new report by the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion (T&F APPG) reveals.

Almost 90% of people surveyed for the report said that fashion industry images did not represent a spectrum of different bodies and identities, while 87.5% said they did not feel represented in advertising campaigns, fashion shoots and on the catwalk.
The survey also found that 68% had experienced or witnessed discrimination in the fashion industry based on appearance or beliefs, with the largest group saying this was based on body image at 73.4% followed by ethnicity, age, disability, gender and religious expression.
Meanwhile 90.5% said they were motivated to buy from fashion brands with a good reputation for inclusivity, while 83.7% said a non-inclusive reputation would impact on their decision to shop with a particular brand.
The report also sets out a number of key recommendations for change across both government and fashion businesses - in a bid to build a more inclusive and successful industry.
Recommendations for government include the recruitment of a senior civil servant to coordinate and lead on the UK government's policy on the fashion industry.

The report also calls for a roundtable, to be convened by a Cabinet Minister, to further discuss education strategies, research on diverse sections of society, access to jobs, job retention, diversity in leadership roles and support for people with disabilities into the fashion workforce.
Fashion industry recommendations include the creation of a national fashion education strategy and a call for companies to set out routes into leadership for underrepresented groups.
Commenting on the report, T&F APPG chair Dr Lisa Cameron MP said: "This report looks at the role of the fashion professional and the impacts which a lack of diversity and inclusion has, not only on the individual, but also the economic impacts on the business revenue of a brand and on the wider economy.

"But this is not just an economic impact, it has social and far-reaching implications, all of which this paper not only outlines, it offers solutions to address.
"It is my hope that this paper is read widely, both by industry and government, and that our recommendations serve as a roadmap towards a more inclusive, representative and successful UK fashion industry."
The Fashion Roundtable's Fashion Director Karen Binns, who is also on the British Fashion Council's Diversity Steering Group, added: "Statistics do not lie. We know from the data that the person of colour spends double, sometimes triple the amount of money on clothes. Why? Because they must. We must.

"We are constantly the most judged on our appearances, which means we have no choice but to look the part, at all times to represent and to be successful.

"People of colour will be dismissed, ignored, and disregarded for an equal opportunity. This is business, and if fashion brands continue to ignore this issue of disregarding their biggest consumer they will lose - completely - especially now, that all black owned businesses are on an all time rise. At the end of the day, just do the numbers!"

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Fashion industry discrimination and lack of diversity exposed in new report - TheIndustry.fashion

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Discrimination and under-representation continues to pervade the UK fashion industry - a new report by the All-Party Parliamentary Group for Textiles and Fashion (T&F APPG) reveals.

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I’m a size 12 model and couldn’t fit into Zara’s ‘medium’ jeans

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Ashly Rae, 36, from Aberdeen, is the founder of Elswear. The brand has ditched traditional dress sizes and categorises figures as ‘magnetic’, ‘limitless’ and ‘strong’.

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I Believe These 10 Brands Practice The Inclusivity They Preach

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From charges of cultural appropriation to outright racism, the last year has made clear just how far fashion still has to go to become more inclusive. Now, a perfect storm of identity politics, consumer activism and social media may bring about lasting change.

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LONDON, United Kingdom - Bethann Hardison remembers the days when, before every New York Fashion Week, "Casting directors would send out notices to all the modelling agencies in the city, saying 'no blacks, no ethnics' - we don't want to see them." Back then, the issue of diversity in the fashion industry had "got lost like a splinter," says Hardison, a former model and founder of the Diversity Coalition, which works with industry bodies like the CFDA to raise awareness about racial diversity and discrimination in fashion.

In 2007, tired and frustrated, Hardison hosted a press conference in a New York hotel, where she publicly lambasted the industry's lack of diversity. "From that moment on," Hardison says, "No one has ever said that again."

Since then, greater media coverage, the work of advocacy organisations such as the Diversity Coalition, and the willingness of high profile figures like Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell to speak out about their experiences, has spotlighted the issue of diversity in the fashion industry. But this has not resulted in a significant rise in the number of models of colour walking the runways and gracing the covers of glossy magazines.

The consumers buying luxury fashion, however, are more diverse than ever before. Since 2007, Asia-Pacific's share of the global luxury goods market has grown by ten percentage points, according to a report by Bain & Company, and today, the fastest growing luxury markets in the world are the Middle East and Africa. But as the non-western markets for fashion expand, the gap between consumers and catwalks is growing.

Over the last four weeks, BoF has surveyed 117 key shows from New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. The data gathered reveals that white models still make up the vast majority of those appearing on the catwalk. According to BoF's calculations, of the 3,875 model bookings that were made during these four weeks, only 797 were models of colour (categorised as black, Asian, non-white Hispanic and other), meaning that 79.4 percent of the models that walked the runway were white. Black models were the highest represented minority, accounting for 10.2 percent of bookings, followed by Asian models at 6.5 percent and 'other' models, including those of Indian and Middle Eastern descent, at 2.3 percent. Hispanic models accounted for only 1.6 percent of model bookings made.

BoF's data was only a representative sample of these fashion weeks, based on information gathered from the shows that we reviewed during this period, but our results echo those found by other industry surveys. In February, The Fashion Spot published a report on the four fashion weeks for Autumn/Winter 2015, which found a similar divide, with non-white models making up only 20 percent of all catwalk appearances.

White models also dominate editorial coverage and advertising campaigns. In Fashionista's round up of 2015's 'September Issues' - widely regarded as the most important issue of the year for fashion magazines - only 12 of the 41 covers featured men or women of colour and racially diverse cover stars were predominantly celebrities rather than models. Last year, just under 20 percent of fashion magazine covers featured models of colour, according to data collected by The Fashion Spot. Diversity was most lacking in fashion advertising, with white models making up almost 85 percent of those cast in campaigns, according to another report by The Fashion Spot.

The fashion industry's lack of diversity extends to those working behind the scenes. Data recently collected by The New York Times revealed that African-American designers accounted for approximately 12 of the CFDA's 470 and helmed only 2.7 percent of the 260 shows scheduled for New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2015. "More often, [I'm] the only person of colour in the room," says Tracy Reese, an African-American designer who has dressed the likes of Michelle Obama.

"It's not a particularly diverse industry," says Robin Givhan, fashion editor of The Washington Post, who says there is a connection between the decision makers and the dominance of white models. "We are drawn to people who look like us," she says. "Unless they're making a conscious decision to deviate from the standard, then the standard is what they go for. And [their] standard is blonde and blue eyed."

Historically, the fashion industry has also been centred in the West - with its most significant companies, such as Kering and LVMH, and its fashion weeks all based there. "The fashion press has been covering only four cities," points out Frédéric Godart, an assistant professor of organisational behaviour at INSEAD. "For a lot of people in the world, fashion is Paris, New York, Milan and London." As a result, the industry has evolved to cater primarily for a Western consumer.

Ashley Mears, an assistant sociology professor at Boston University and author of Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model, says the lack of diversity is much more of a problem at the luxury end of the spectrum, which is "aimed at a very narrow consumer base." By contrast, mass-market fashion tends to be much more ethnically diverse. "You never see people complaining about a catalogue - 'Where's diversity?' They've really covered their bases," says Mears. Indeed, value fashion grounds its advertising in customer research, often operating on the understanding that the consumer wants to see himself or herself represented. "They know who their customers are," Mears says.

But luxury brands' model castings aren't unthinking - rather, they are careful marketing. "Fashion isn't about selling real life," says Reina Lewis, professor of cultural studies at London College of Fashion, who says that it is the same principle of exclusivity that means luxury fashion is only shown on young, skinny bodies, as on white bodies. "Even something ostensibly real, like normcore, is only cool when it's shown on slim, youthful bodies - not on 50-year-olds."

"High-end advertising operates on a principle of not only aspiration, but also on a principle of unattainability - something that is so fantastic and so beautiful that it is damn near impossible to achieve," agrees Mears.

Another part of the appeal of luxury fashion brands - as well as their aesthetic exclusivity - is their European heritage, says Frédéric Godart. "The fashion industry was born in Northern Italy and France, and then spread to the UK and other countries and the US. A lot of big brands were born there," Godart told BoF. "These brands have a long history," he added, which is important to the customers buying into them.

The "myth and ideal of the western product" is part of what luxury fashion brands are selling to emerging markets, says Lewis. When a customer in China buys a Chanel handbag, they are buying a Chanel handbag from the iconic, Parisian brand. "So it needs to not look too much like something local, even if it might be made in China," says Lewis.

Brands' desire to emphasise their Western history can account for some of the lack of diversity in campaigns, agrees Elizabeth Wissinger, associate professor of fashion studies at City University of New York, who says that brands often choose to depict their historic customer base, rather than their more diverse modern one. "It might be more [diverse] now, but that was not the norm. So the meaning doesn't resonate with the history and tradition of whatever the brand was, because that brand usually catered to elite who were not of colour."

These brands have also inherited the West's preconceived ideals of beauty. "Fashion didn't invent the tendency to regard certain types of Caucasian bodies as beautiful. There's a pre-history in art, literature and drama, of presenting a certain type of European as the cultural ideal," explains Reina Lewis, who says that, while some physical details might have changed - body weight, for example - "the conceptualisation of whiteness as a quality of the beautiful body has remained constant."

However, "fashion houses do listen," says Godart. "If their customers want something, they will oblige." In particular, the recent uptick in Asian models has been interpreted by many as brands' reactions to the growing significance of Chinese customers in the global luxury fashion market.

However, many are wary that this development could be merely a cosmetic trend, arguing that it is still too statistically small to be significant.

"It's really surface level," says Minh-Ha Pham, assistant professor at Cornell University and co-author of fashion politics blog, Threadbared. Pham says there is a danger in only offering diversity when the market demands it. "It's okay when Asia is becoming this new and important market, but what happens when the economy begins to slow down? All of a sudden those consumers are no longer important."

Including Asian models in shows in a bid to win important Chinese consumers also "rests on a logical assumption that people of colour want to see other people of colour, and that is what sells fashion, and that is what drives fashion, but that's not necessarily true," says Mears.

Reina Lewis argues that racialised hierarchies of beauty, which prioritise whiteness, exist all over the world - something attested to by the popularity of relaxing and straightening products for Afro hair, or skin-lightening creams. "In many cultures paler skin is preferred as a sign of beauty."

Furthermore, the rarity of models of colour reinforces the idea of whiteness as the "accepted aesthetic," Pham explains. "[Whiteness] is seen as a kind of universal human identity." Therefore, "when Asian or African bodies do register, they tend to stand out," agrees Lewis.

"I still see collections presented where you'll have a model on the runway, and then all of a sudden there will be four black models in succession, as if somehow they must be grouped together," says Robin Givhan, who describes how some fashion brands approach race as if it is an "aesthetic flourish."

Some see the changing ways that people consume fashion - no longer only through the lens of high-end editorial and luxury advertising campaigns, but online, through blogs and social media - as a harbinger for diversity in the industry.

"They've opened up the space beyond magazines," says Elizabeth Wissinger, associate professor of sociology and fashion studies at City University of New York, who argues that the Internet has enabled the rise of influencers outside the fashion industry's traditionally narrow definition of beauty.

"There's a whole host of user-generated imagery out there... that's been really important in making visible different types of ethnicity," agrees Lewis, who says bloggers and social media platforms "have been incredibly important in putting up a range of imagery that validates people's choices and that widens the frame in which people can understand themselves."

As these influences draw large audiences, "the fashion industry starts noticing them," says Wissinger, who explains how the industry's slow realisation of the potential profitability of these communities encourages brands "to go for these new markets and accept them and pull them into the fashion fold."

As the balance of who is controlling fashion's imagery shifts away from elite luxury fashion houses, alternative understandings of beauty will be allowed to come to the forefront. But, for as long as those in charge remain preoccupied with Western ideals of whiteness, the image of the fashion industry on the catwalk will continue to look very different to its consumers.
To learn more about VOICES, BoF's new annual gathering for big thinkers, visit our VOICES website, where you can find all the details and apply to attend our invitation-only global gathering in December, in partnership with QIC Global Real Estate, hosted at the Soho Farmhouse in Oxfordshire in the picturesque English countryside, one hour from London.

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Between the Catwalk and the Consumer: Fashion's Growing Diversity Gap

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LONDON, United Kingdom - Bethann Hardison remembers the days when, before every New York Fashion Week, "Casting directors would send out notices to all the modelling agencies in the city, saying 'no blacks, no ethnics' - we don't want to see them."

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Adidas ignore nudity guidelines with campaign to celebrate breasts of all women

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Adidas has broken the norms and "Redesigned 100%" of its sports bras to provide the perfect fit for all women. The campaign boldly ignores community and censorship guidelines to aid understanding of an issue that many women face today. The images used include a showcase of 25 pairs of breasts, providing a small representation of [...]

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A CURVY creator has shared her thoughts on Zara's inclusive sizing.

TikTok user Kate, who wears a size 18, tried on various items from the clothing brand.

In her video, the influencer modeled a pair of white flared leggings, $46.

She joked: "[These] were way too see-through, to the point where you could see my cellulite."

Kate also tried on a $46 pair of light brown high waist pants from Zara.

She explained: "These 2XL pants did not fit at all, I buttoned them up but I couldn't breath."

Next, the TikToker showed viewers a black satin wrap dress with long sleeves, $50.

"This XL dress was actually cute and I would've ordered an XXL but it was way too short, like way too short," the influencer said.

Finally, Kate modeled a $119 double-breasted textured blazer jacket.

"Last and least this blazer, I couldn't even put my arms down. What a joke," she told viewers.

TikTok users took to the comments section to share their thoughts on the haul.

"Okay, but the black dress is made for you," wrote one impressed viewer.

Another follower said: "Ugh legit!!! Zara is not size inclusive and it's honestly not the vibe in 2023."

"I'm a typical 6 and sometimes need an XL at Zara...their sizing is terrible," commented a third person.

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I'm a size 18 - I tried 2XL items from Zara, the white pants were NSFW

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A CURVY creator has shared her thoughts on Zara's inclusive sizing. TikTok user Kate, who wears a size 18, tried on various items from the clothing brand. In her video, the influencer modeled a pair of white flared leggings, $46. She joked: "[These] were way too see-through, to the point where you could see my cellulite."

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Our fashion isn't one-size-fits-all and neither is our culture. We believe in difference - different fashion styles, different perspectives, different ideas. Our customers come from a wide range of backgrounds, and we take pride in the fact that our colleagues do too. That's why we work hard to include everyone in what we do - and in how we do it. To listen to colleagues. To welcome fresh ideas. To ensure that everyone feels not just invited, but that they belong.

As a member of our team, we'll help you find your amazing while you bring amazing experiences to our customers. You'll have more than enough room to be you and you'll get every chance to grow beyond what you thought possible. Diversity is so much more than who we hire - it flows into how we act and how we empower our people. And that's why we care about building an Inclusive culture for all. That's what it means to be Primark.

You make us shine

Yes, you. With your unique knowledge, curious nature, fun-loving personality and different views and opinions, you're the beating heart of our business. Along with our other 75,000 inspirational and creative colleagues. Without people like you, we wouldn't be where we are today - with 390 stores, in 12 countries.

By you sharing your unique perspectives and beliefs, and by helping to guide our vision, we can become better, bigger and even more amazing for our customers. We hope all colleagues share our inclusive values, and that our stakeholders, suppliers and partners do so too. Everyone's invited to be Inclusive at Primark.

A little respect goes a long way

Feeling respected and valued isn't something we simply promote, it's something we actively strive to achieve. From processes designed to put you first, to policies that make sure everyone at Primark feels safe, welcome and supported. You can read our policy in full here.

For us, respect is built upon offering equal reward and fair recognition for all. It means that working together, teamwork and collaboration are all qualities we look for and expect. In everyone. If you look after others, we'll look after you.

When we listen, we learn

Our commitment to inclusion means we find ways to connect people so that they can listen to each other. We're fans of mentoring so that experience and skills are shared, and ideas flow between people. We invest in training so you know just what we need from you and you can tell us what you need from us. Training also helps everyone to talk about inclusion openly, giving colleagues the skills and confidence to act inclusively and find each other's amazing.

To make sure we're the best we can be, we listen to our customers. Their diverse insights give us everything we need to be ahead of the curve. Our aim is to always set the tone in our market, leading the way in diversity. We want to show our teams and our fashionable fans that we're ready to change, to do what's right, and to do it first.

Your part in the big picture

As a member of our team, you play a big part in how we act. Your point of view is valuable, and you value the views of others too. But we don't expect you to simply take what someone says if you believe they're behaving in the wrong way. We invite you to challenge it - in the right way.

We're proud to reflect the communities we sell our clothes in. From Europe to the US, we're global in our presence and our culture. You're a part of that culture, you bring your ideas, identity and difference here, and embrace the differences of everyone else in the workplace.

Diversity and Inclusion is about taking responsibility - for each other, our customers and our global business. We're all in this together, we all look after the health, reputation, sustainability and ethical standing of our team, business and the world we've built around us. Everyone is invited to make a real impact. An inclusive difference.

Ready to be part of Primark? You're invited.

You. Me. Us. Amazing Together.

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Our fashion isn't one-size-fits-all and neither is our culture. We believe in difference - different fashion styles, different perspectives, different ideas. Our customers come from a wide range of backgrounds, and we take pride in the fact that our colleagues do too.

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Primark has officially updated its clothing sizes - replacing the traditional numbers format for letters (S, M, L etc).

The super-affordable high street retailer is rebranding dress sizes 10 and 12 as 'small', and the changes will see a 2XS (size 4-6) and 2XL (24-26) added to their ranges, to promote the inclusivity of more diverse body shapes. And also for all those times when their size 10 fits like a 4 (not cool).

The new format comes after a doctor sparked a fierce debate on Good Morning Britain about high street stores 'glamorising' obesity.

Health guru Dr Stoppard appeared on the ITV breakfast show where she argued that plus-sized models and a wider range of clothing sizes are normalising being overweight.

On the show, she suggested that overweight women should opt for smaller sizes in order to encourage them to lose weight, so naturally we've already low-key had enough of her opinion.

Josie Gibson, who has struggled with her fluctuating weight, joined Dr Stoppard and was accused by viewers of having 'dangerous' views that could promote eating disorders.

But viewers were quick to hit out when the doctor failed to mention the fact that the weight of catwalk models isn't regulated, and often results in young girls facing eating disorders in order to become reputable in the industry. Surely the same principle here, right?

Josie Gibson, who has seen her size fluctuate between a size 8 and a size 22, said she thinks that the food industry should take responsibility for fashion.

She said: "I have been a size 8 to a size 22, I have been a whole range of sizes, and we're taking it out on the fashion industry. We need to stop that.

"Every single bit of research is blaming the fashion industry. It's nothing to do with the fashion industry it's down to the food industry this is what we should be doing the research on."

Josie also pointed out that plus size women who are trying to lose weight are struggling to find sportswear to fit, which she finds 'discouraging'.

As Primark's new sizing range is slowly being implemented into womenswear, only time (and the media) will tell if using letters over numbers in clothing will eradicate the 'shame' in being at either end of the scale.

Body positivity for women of all sizes is so important, and we're happy to see Primark getting involved by attempting to reduce stigmas and promoting positive outlooks.

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Hallelujah! Primark ditches its clothing sizes to be more inclusive

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Primark has officially updated its clothing sizes - replacing the traditional numbers format for letters (S, M, L etc). The super-affordable high street retailer is rebranding dress sizes 10 and 12 as 'small', and the changes will see a 2XS (size 4-6) and 2XL (24-26) added to their ranges, to promote the inclusivity of more diverse body shapes.

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(Image: PA)

A woman was left furious after trying on pairs of jeans from both Primark and New Look. She explained to people what she had found in a video which has now gone viral.

The woman, whose name is Ally Marie, took to TikTok to show the results - and she was noooooot happy. She captioned the video: "Primark this is ridiculous, no wonder people are struggling with body image."

I n the video, Ally could be seen trying on a pair of Primark size 12 jeans, despite being a size 10 herself.

READ MORE: Shoppers are just realising the bow on the front of knickers from Primark, ASDA, Tesco and New Look isn't just for decoration

Standing up to show how she couldn't even do the trousers up.he said: "What the hell is Primark playing at?" These are a 12. I'm a size 10 but I got a bigger pair because they looked tiny. I can't even do them up. And I can't walk."

Ally added: "I was wearing a size 8 pair of jeans from New Look before I put these on." She then took the Primark jeans off and laid them on top of the New Look jeans to show the size difference.

Comments flooded in agreeing with Ally. LeannaClaire17 wrote: "Glad I'm not the only one this has happened to! I'm normally a size 8/10 in jeans and I have to get a size 14 from primark last week!" fionabettley said: "Primark ave always had dodgy sizes,I get so disheartened there,I'm only a 10-12 & wat is with us their changing room mirrors,they show everything."

Leanne Burrows said: "Need to ignore the labels! even in more expensive shops...." Kathryn added: "Given up with primark now. I wear next jeans but sometimes they're the same."

Dawn Butler said: "Primark sizing is diabolical!!! Rach commented: "I lost 6st was a size 12, in Primark I was a size 16/18." While an unnamed shopper said: "They are ridiculous. I usually wear a 16. I got an 18 jeans n couldn't get them up. I've since lost 1.6 stone and still can't get them on."

In 2021, Primark vowed to improve on its sizing following a number of customer complaints. Primark's 'new improved sizing' range features more inclusive sizes - starting at XXS (UK 4/6) to XXL (UK 22/24). However, people weren't happy as they demanded a size 8/10. This is not available to buy.

Primark told Metro : "'Primark is launching new improved sizing across selected products in our womenswear, lingerie and nightwear departments. Selected products across womenswear, lingerie and nightwear that are single sized (e.g. 8,10,12) as well as those that are dual-sized (e.g. 8-10, 10-12) will be updated for a more comfortable fit and to ensure consistency across our ranges for all our customers. Within these departments, single sizes and dual sizes will now be denoted with a letter conversion such as S, M, L. All labelling on products and in store will therefore include numeric and letter conversions."

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Size 10 woman raging after comparing Primark and New Look jeans

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A woman was left furious after trying on pairs of jeans from both Primark and New Look. She explained to people what she had found in a video which has now gone viral. The woman, whose name is Ally Marie, took to TikTok to show the results - and she was noooooot happy.

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These are the best and worst retailers for inclusive, plus-size clothing

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Fashion experts at WeThrift have developed a detailed Inclusive Index to help you find the right plus-size clothing for you.

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In recent times, labels are claiming to have plus-size ranges in their clothing lines to suit all body types. Flawless.org completed a study to discover how inclusive the biggest online women's clothing brands are in their sizing.

Urban Outfitters has just 546 dresses available online above a size 14, while Topshop has 3.3 percent of its online items in a size 16 or above, whereas New Look has 353 items out of 7,144 in plus-size.

River Island (5.1 percent) and Boohoo (5.2 percent) have their clothes labelled as plus-size, while River Island has 27 out of their 967 tops available for sizes 18-28 (3 percent), Boohoo has 1,280 out of 8,240 items in the sale section available to plus-size body types (16 percent).

Fast-fashion counterparts such as I Saw it First (6.4 percent), Oh Polly (7.3 percent), Motel Rocks (7.6 percent), Pretty Little Thing (8 percent) and Nasty Gal (10 percent) all have less than one tenth of their products catered towards plus-size customers. Additionally, Missguided have only 962 of their 17,107 items classified as plus-size (5.6 percent), despite having seven dedicated sizes.

Which brands are most inclusive?

54 percent of all of H&M's women clothing is between XL and 4XL, with 64 percent of their tops available fitting these sizes on its online store.

Although Miss Selfridge's range only goes up to size 18, 47.7 percent of their items are between the sizes 16-18. Their online store also has a large range of plus-size tops for customers, with 59 percent catered towards size 16-18.

Growing fast-fashion outlet Shein ranks significantly well compared to its competitors with 37.2 percent of online items available from XL to 4XL. The brand ranks considerably in the number of plus-size dresses, with 5,795 plus-size dresses in comparison to 19,536 average dresses available (30 percent).

All data for this study was collected on 30 September.

Plus-size market opportunity

According to Coresight Research, by the end of 2020, the size of the US plus size apparel market will grow to 24 billion dollars, with an annual growth rate of approximately twice the total growth rate of the apparel market, up to 10.9 billion dollars.
Photo credit: Vinted

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Inclusive sizing: Which retail brands are plus-size friendly?

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In recent times, labels are claiming to have plus-size ranges in their clothing lines to suit all body types. Flawless.org completed a study to discover how inclusive the biggest online women's clothing brands are in their sizing.

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The Unhidden show at London Fashion Week was a masterclass in inclusive clothing

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The range includes a dress with space for a feeding tube and tops with easy-remove arms.

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Vogue Business analysed all shows and presentations on Vogue Runway for AW23 to determine the level of size inclusive representation. There's a long way to go.

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The debate around size inclusivity reached a peak this season, as journalists called out the lack of body diversity on the runway and emerging size-inclusive designers highlighted the shortcomings of luxury brands when it comes to mid-size and plus-size representation.

According to Vogue Business data collected throughout fashion month, the Autumn/Winter 2023 season failed to make progress in terms of size representation on the runway. Of 9,137 looks across 219 shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, just 0.6 per cent were plus-size (US 14+) and 3.8 per cent were mid-size (US 6-12). This means 95.6 per cent of looks presented for AW23 were in a size US 0-4.

Vogue Business analysed every AW23 runway show and presentation reviewed by Vogue Runway from the official New York, London, Milan and Paris calendars to determine the proportion of total looks that are straight size, mid-size and plus-size. Brands were contacted to allow them to verify the data and informed that if they did not verify, the initial figures collected by Vogue Business would be used. Sizing ranges were determined based on typical sample sizes for straight sizing and established definitions of mid and plus-size.

Across the entire season, only 17 brands featured at least one plus-size look. The brands with the highest percentage of plus-size models over a US 14 were Sinéad O'Dwyer, Ester Manas, Karoline Vitto, Di Petsa and Bach Mai. These same brands also featured the highest percentage of mid-size models. Data was determined by number of looks, to account for one model potentially representing multiple looks for bigger bodies on the runway. However, most of the top-ranking shows featured a greater number of mid-size models, with very little plus-size representation. And it's important to note that many of the bigger brands like Dior, the mid-size looks on their runways were on the cusp of the straight-size range.

"Plus-size representation has gone backwards," says Felicity Hayward, a plus-size model who was scouted 12 years ago, when there were no plus-size models in the British fashion industry, by fashion photographer Miles Aldridge. Hayward, who has been tracking plus-size representation since 2019 through her project #IncludingTheCurve, stopped attending London Fashion Week in 2019 due to the lack of size inclusivity, but returned last season for SS23.

What happened to size inclusivity in fashion? Over the last decade, the body positivity movement has grown online, with curve models such as Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser, Jill Kortleve and Alva Claire becoming household names. Brands like Versace featured plus-size models on the runway for the first time in 2021; Dolce & Gabbana and Erdem extended their sizing ranges; and the press heralded a new era for size inclusivity in fashion. Even Victoria's Secret did away with its fashion show, criticised for only featuring straight-size women, and cast curve models like Elsesser and Kortleve in its campaigns. Now, injectable diabetes drug Ozempic, an appetite suppressant, is trending and the media is declaring that " heroin chic is back ".

"Bodies should never be a trend. We need inclusive bodies on the runway so that bodies don't become trends," says Hayward. "If you want to create a new generation of people who are having less mental health issues and body image issues and reaching body neutrality, it is by pressuring these designers to show everybody."

Some brands have expanded size range to reach a global plus-size market projected to reach $288 billion in value this year, per Future Market Insights. Gucci's AW23 collection will be produced in sizes IT34 to 54, and for tops, skirts, jerseys, T-shirts, sweatshirts and underwear the sizes range from XXXS to 4XL, according to the brand. And Chanel said their AW23 collection will be sold up to a FR50 (US18/UK22). Gucci had 10 mid-size models, while Chanel had four, however, no plus-size models walked the runway at either show to present how their expanded sizing range could look above a US12.

"It's a shame when brands do actually make bigger sizes but they don't show it on the runway," says Amsterdam-based former model and influencer Vivian Hoorn who, based on her experiences in fashion, founded inclusive modelling agency Scala management and size-inclusive clothing brand Viveh. "From experience, I can tell you, plus-size is selling. I would be a customer for them if I could see plus-size looks [on the runway]."

Emerging talents are leading the charge. Why?

While the industry's major players fail to represent mid-size or plus-size bodies, fashion's emerging talents are driving size inclusivity forward. London topped the rankings this season in terms of plus-size representation, driven by emerging designers Karoline Vitto and Sinéad O'Dwyer, both in their second ever show season, who presented 100 per cent and 90.5 per cent of looks on mid-size and plus-size models, respectively.

Vitto, who is from Brazil, is part of incubator Fashion East. Her show featured 75 per cent mid-size and 25 per cent plus-size models, wearing not just stretchy dresses but tailored separates and jackets. "AW23 was a huge achievement for us personally because it included tailoring, which is a completely different making process from Jersey," the designer says. Adapting all of that to curve and plus was a huge undertaking to be honest."

Inclusivity has always been a core part of Paris brand Ester Manas's identity since it launched back in 2019. "Having an inclusive casting has always been one of our ethos since the first collection," the brand says. "The main concept of our garments is to be one size and fit all body types," the brand says, adding that certain products they are creating this season such as trousers will have dropped two sizes as it's difficult to apply the 'one-size fits all' model across all categories. "It wasn't difficult at all, we [have] worked with the same casting director since the start who understands what we're looking for, and our garments fit any model we chose to have anyway, so there's no sizing difficulties for us."

While creating bigger size ranges comes naturally to emerging talents, casting plus-size models requires brands to think ahead of time, designers agree, as the quick turnaround nature of runway casting, typically done in the days running up to the show, doesn't allow for the kind of alterations needed to adapt pieces to variations for bigger bodies.

"Last season we found it very difficult to do the casting process," O'Dwyer says. "The system of seasonal fashion and doing shows has not been created to have diverse people on the runway." For AW23, she precast 12 of her models out of 21 in collaboration with casting director Emma Matell. She then made their looks made-to-measure, including a three-piece suit in size 22. This season, she wanted to focus on the tailored garments, which she can produce in size UK 6 to 30 (US 2 to 26), which require more alterations depending on the model. "It was nice to be able to have someone really embody the look and not just go with whoever it fits."

New York brand Collina Strada takes a similar approach, says founder Hillary Taymour. The brand included one plus-size look and 10 mid-size looks at its February show. "It definitely varies depending on the season and the models. We sometimes make looks ahead of time and then alter them to fit individuals, but generally it just takes a small effort and thought process beforehand to accommodate sizing on the runway."

Another issue is a lack of model availability, designers agree. London designer Ahluwalia's show featured two mid-size girls, but the team also created six looks in a UK 18. "There are only a select number of mid-size and plus-size runway models and because of that, all the brands kind of battle each other to cast them in shows," the brand said in an email.

"We make the collections for what I want to represent. We had one model [this season] who was a size 14 US who I loved so much we ended up putting her in the most looks in the show," says Christian Siriano, who included 17 mid-size looks and one plus-size look in his AW23 show. "There are obviously challenges to developing clothes early on in so many different sizes - it's a lot of work."

Working with materials such as knitwear is helping Tokyo-based label CFCL cater to various body types. "Taking advantage of the unique elasticity of knitwear, for example, dresses and skirts have the same width, and only the length differs by 10 to 12cm depending on the size," the brand said over email. This season's collection will have only three sizes - 1, 3, and 5 - and the brand says it used its runway show in Paris to highlight how the clothes can be worn on different body types, ages and genders. CFCL ranked number five for the top shows of PFW AW23 based on size inclusivity. Mark Fast, who ranked fourth in London, has a similar approach, with a size system of A, B and C for his stretch garments. "That is the beauty of knitwear. It lends itself to different body shapes as the nature of it is to stretch and contour around the body," he says.

Tokenism and box ticking

Jeanie Annan-Lewin, stylist and creative director of Perfect magazine, used to get excited when seeing a bigger body on the runway. But now she knows better: in her experience, the majority of larger mid-size or plus-size looks aren't shown to buyers at the showroom, don't go into production and can't be featured in shoots. "Don't put a plus-size model on the runway if you don't have their size, that's tokenism. But, if you do have a huge range, you should be showing models of all sizes," says Hayward.

While many of the brands assessed by Vogue Business included mid-size looks at the lower end of the range, Christian Siriano stresses that plus-size representation can often speak to a much wider demographic than straight-size models can. "Even if we're thinking about a woman who's a US 6 or 8, they can still often see themselves a bit more in a [model] who's a 12 or 14 US rather than they can when the dress is really small," he says. Most of Siriano's customers are either US 2 to 4 or US 16 to 18, he says.

Size-inclusive labels need retailers' support

Vitto is currently stocked at smaller e-tailers including Apoc Store and her own e-commerce site, which holds stock and offers made-to-order. For AW23, she's keen to build out wholesale to boost brand discovery. But, it comes with risks, as one store she works with only purchased smaller sizes.

"Moving forward, I don't want to dilute the brand," she says. "I don't want it to come to a place where the bigger sizes are only available on my website because that also creates another layer of exclusion because then the customer can't try them on in real life."

Net-a-Porter says there are limitations in what sizes they can buy based on what brands offer. The retailer is stocking a range of brands that focus on size inclusivity, mostly in the premium and affordable space.

Matchesfashion has been working on expanding its size range. Its core size range is XS to XL or UK 6 to 14, with everything outside of that on either end included in its extended sizing range. For SS22, the luxury multi-brand retailer increased its purchases of extended sizes by 40 per cent year-on-year, with sales for those sizes growing 60 per cent. It reflects "the demand for a broader range of sizing in luxury fashion", says head of womenswear Liane Wiggins. "Like our team, our customers are a diverse range of sizes, and we want to ensure our buy reflects this and that we are offering the best size range across our edit," she says.

Currently, 65 per cent of ready-to-wear brands at Matchesfashion offer inclusive sizing across the total edit. The retailer has worked with brands such as Zimmerman and Erdem exclusively to extend their size range, alongside brands such as Chloé, The Vampire's Wife, Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Roksanda. Extended sizes will be available for its SS23 exclusive capsule with Cecilie Bahnsen, and the retailer is working to offer a wider range for AW23. "For some of our smaller and more contemporary brands it can be challenging for them to extend across all sizes as it is a commitment in terms of product development, and there will always be cost implications. However, we have worked with several of our brands over the years to ensure we are offering a full and extended size run where we can," says Wiggins.

Siriano's business is fully direct-to-consumer now. "I've noticed a huge change in how our customers are shopping. Because we have such a range of sizes, we're getting such a range of diverse women coming in because they know there's going to be something they can try on. That's the biggest thing, because going shopping when you're different shapes and sizes or just in general can be a challenge."

O'Dwyer is already stocked at Ssense and H.Lorenzo and hopes to add more stockists next season. But it's a long road. "I've sometimes been like a bit frustrated because we'll put all this time into a great grading for a size that then it never gets bought," she says, "buyers sometimes buy all the small sizes and none of the bigger sizes - it can be quite disheartening." Last season, however, one retailer did buy up to a size 20, which gave her hope. "There's lots of challenges, but mainly lots of excitement."
With additional reporting by Emily Forkan Correction: This article was updated with data provided by Alexander McQueen, which clarifies that it used three mid-size models and one plus-size in its AW23 Paris Fashion Week show (16/03/23)
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
More on this topic: Why menswear is falling behind on size inclusivity How size-inclusive brands are overcoming manufacturing restrictions Brands are casting 'diverse' models. But they're still not challenging Eurocentric beauty norms

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Lucy Maguire, Maliha Shoaib and Ezreen Benissan

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The Vogue Business Autumn/Winter 2023 size inclusivity report

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Vogue Business analysed all shows and presentations on Vogue Runway for AW23 to determine the level of size inclusive representation. There's a long way to go.

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