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step 1:
Once you have found a light-safe a spot, get the developing tank, reels, film, a bottle opener and a pair of scissors.

Turn off all lights and use the can opener to pry the top off the film canister.

step 2 :
Without touching the emulsion side of the film, use your thumb and forefinger to grip the film by the edges and feel toward the end of the film. The end of your film has no exposures on it, so it is safe to touch. Using your fingers as a guide, find your scissors and cut the ‘tongue’ off your film.

step 3:
Once the film has an even end, it can be loaded on the reel. Take a reel and feed the first piece of film onto it. It may resist at first but once it passes the ball bearing it seems to pop onto the track.

step 4:
Toward the end of the reel, you will feel the plastic spindle that was used to pull the film out of the canister. It will find it’s way into your palms as you wind up your film. Take the scissors and cut this plastic spindle free and continue to load the rest of your film.

step 5:
When all of the chemicals are prepared and your film is loaded in the developing tank, you are ready to start the developing process. Pour enough water to fill your tank and let your negatives soak for 1 minute.

step 6:
Chemicals:

Developer -3 mins         Developer activates the light sensitive crystals that make up the emulsion on your paper. When the crystals come into contact with developer, any parts of the paper exposed to light will become some shade of black.

Stop bath -30 seconds            The Stop Bath is an acid that deactivates the developer. As you put a print into the stop bath, it stops turning black. Water and lemon juice can both be used instead of stop bath, but are not nearly as effective.

Fixer -5 mins                            Fixer removes the unexposed crystals on the emulsion, making the paper light safe. Paper that has been through fixer can then be taken into open light without worries of turning black. Insufficient fixing will turn a picture yellow over time.

water - 20 mins                                  water simply clears all the other chemicals that have been not he paper, the water should be running when clearing the photo.

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Without touching the emulsion side of the film, use your thumb and forefinger to grip the film by the edges and feel toward the end of the film. The end of your film has no exposures on it, so it is safe to touch.

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 task 6&7 photo grams and Dark room photography 

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 task 6&7 photo grams and Dark room photography 

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photograms :
a picture produced with photographic materials, such as light-sensitive paper, but without a camera.

The steps:
step 1:
set up Most things are self explanatory, plug in your safe light. Plug your enlarger into the timer, and the timer into the socket. Follow all the instructions for making chemicals, and set them up in the following order, left to right.

step 2:
focus the picture  Turn on the enlarger, and open the f-stop to the widest aperture  Position the easel underneath your enlarger, and raise/lower the head so that you like how the picture is copped on it.

step 3:
do a test strip of different exposure times. cover the paper with a black card and move the card along, as you are doing this epode it to light to show different times

step 4:
to bring out the image on the test strip you have to put them in the chemicals for the required amount of time listed bellow.

step 5:
Take your test strip out of the water and this will show hoe much you need to expose your final photo for.

step 6:
once you have chosen your exposure time you can do your final photo.

eqiptment:

A negative to print

A light tight room

Running water

Safe light

4 Trays for chemicals

Enlarger with a condenser head (and bulb)

Paper easel (holds the paper in place under the enlarger)

Timer

Dryer

Emulsion paper

Chemicals:

Developer -3 mins         Developer activates the light sensitive crystals that make up the emulsion on your paper. When the crystals come into contact with developer, any parts of the paper exposed to light will become some shade of black.

Stop bath -30 seconds            The Stop Bath is an acid that deactivates the developer. As you put a print into the stop bath, it stops turning black. Water and lemon juice can both be used instead of stop bath, but are not nearly as effective.

Fixer -5 mins                            Fixer removes the unexposed crystals on the emulsion, making the paper light safe. Paper that has been through fixer can then be taken into open light without worries of turning black. Insufficient fixing will turn a picture yellow over time.

water - 20 mins                                  water simply clears all the other chemicals that have been not he paper, the water should be running when clearing the photo.

probloms and solutions:
some of the problems in the dark room may be tripping over bags to stop this when the light is on make sure all bags are hidden and out of the way.some of the other problems there may be that someone comes in with  a phone or turns a light on, to avoid this make sure there is a note on the door saying the room is in use so no one disturbed the lighting. also make sure your phone is off because if the light goes off i will effect the photo. because it would be over exposed.

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an arrangement of images, materials, pieces of text, to show my image of essex

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i have tried to make this similar to the shot i was rallying it to by trying to capture the beaty in the rough stones
visual:
this photo does not have a very good visual april because there is not a lot of colour or interest in the photo. this is a texture photo and the print is textured.

technical:
this photo was taken in natural lighting from the sun on a nikon dslr

contextual:
this photo was taken january 2016 for this project.

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this is a textured shot, his is capturing a rough surface and making it look beautiful, i will recreate this on the outer wall at harlow college because the stone show good texture

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task 4 &5 this is my test shot , i like the reflection on the water 1

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task 4 &5 this is my test shot , i like the reflection on the water 1

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this photo  is relevant because it has the reflection of the water,
visual:
this photo has a lot of colour and a lot to take in, this is because i took this photo as a wide angle photo, i did this to capture all of the scenery,the main texture of this photo is coming from the trees but there is also a lot of texture coming fro the clouds the reason i took this is bacuse of the reflection on the lake, this is a pattern and it is a repartition of the picture.

technical:
all the lighting was natural coming from the sun, the reason it is darker is because the clouds where over the sun, i like the lighting this had created.

contextual;

this was taken january 2016 at hatfeild forrest in the lake area, i took this for the project i am currently doing at college and it is of the trees and a hut reflecting on the lake

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i like this shot because of the way th art reflects on the water and i thnk it shows a contrast between the buildings and the art , i will recreate this at hatfeild forrest ansi will use the contrast of the reflection on the lake

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i like this shot because of the way the landscape is used and the sign is still the focus point of the photo, i will recreate this photo at the st michals mead lake and will use the way the sight is not central in the photo

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i tried to recreate this photo in making sure i captured the landscape and that the sign wasn't the centre of the photo

visual:
there is a lot to see in this photo and there are a lot of different colous, the main colour was coming from the sun so it was all natural lighting,The texture in inis photo is coming from the trees and the path and the depth is from the path and where it is lading to, Tbe main focus of the photo is the sign even though i is not central in the photo.

technical:
The lighting was naturally coming from the sun on the back left side of the image creating the slightly blurred look on the left side of the image.

contextual:
This photo was takes in bishops stortford at the lake january 2016, i took this photo for my college course and for his project.My intention for the photo was to have the focus point be the sigh ansi think i have achieved that in this photo, this is my favrote one of the series of photos i took on this day.

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throughout this conversation i have realised i will have to figure out what techniques i will use, this was a good conversation because from this i have burnt that it is about capturing the buaty swell as the things in essex that are not so beautiful. when i was having this conversation i also burnt that there is a lot more to essex that what i see.

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the mind map is to visually explore my ideas on paper , this is so i can always right down my ideas and i will always have a plan