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Fashion Production Theory Project Laura Lodge

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Process that follows striking and cutting a waistcoat:

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Process that follows striking and cutting a waistcoat:

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- Baste Fitting

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- Skeleton Baste (1st, below)
- Pocket Fitting (2nd)
- Forward Fitting (3rd)

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Fabrics and Trimmings used in a Baste Fit:

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Fabrics and Trimmings used in a Baste Fit:

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- Calico
- Canvas
- Basting Thread
- Suiting / main fabric
- Holland Linen
- Tape

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Two important factors when taking measurements:

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Two important factors when taking measurements:

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- Take detailed notes about the client's body e.g. posture, shoulder shape square / sloped etc.

- Tape should be held flat against the body with a 'two finger' gap to ensure a good, but not tight, fit.

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Inlay is excess fabric left at certain parts of a garment. Similar to a seam allowance, it's the area left between the edge of the fabric and the stitch line of pieces of fabric being sewn together.

It's used to allow for adjustments and alterations if they are required at any time.

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8. What size needle do you use for felling stitch and where is it used?

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8. What size needle do you use for felling stitch and where is it used?

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A size 7 needle is used for this stitch.

Felling is used to attach a folded edge to a raw edge or seam line. It's used to neaten hemlines and on the lining of sleeves and jackets. It can also be used for welt pockets.

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Gimp thread is a narrow ornamental trim used in sewing or embroidery. It is made of silk, wool, or cotton and is often stiffened with metallic wire or coarse cord running through it.

In tailoring it's used to strengthen and slightly raise the area around a buttonhole.

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4. Hand stitching techniques used in the welt pocket (in making order):

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4. Hand stitching techniques used in the welt pocket (in making order):

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a) Basting - to secure fabrics together throughout the making
b) Raw Edge Felling - to secure the welt piece together
c) Side Stitch - to sew around the top of the welt
c) Lining Felling - to attach the pocketing
d) Raw Edge Felling - to secure the raw edges of the cut pocketing to the welt
e) Felling Stitch - to secure the welt edges down
f) Prick Stitch - to finish off the sides of the welt

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The point presser is used to press seams open in difficult to reach places such as inside pointed and curved collars, lapels, facings and men's ties.

The tailor clapper which forms the base of the point presser is used to flatten bulky edges of facings, edges, pleats, buttonholes, hems and pleats.

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Sit either cross legged on the table, ensuring your work is brought to your eyes - rather than hunched over your work.

Or sit with legs crossed over one another on a chair. Again, ensuring you bring your work up to your eye sight, rather than hunching over.

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6. Name the pre-waxed thread used in tailoring - why is it used?

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6. Name the pre-waxed thread used in tailoring - why is it used?

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Silk?

It strengthens the thread, makes it smoother going through layers of fabric and makes it less prone to knotting when hand stitching.

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Beeswax is used on all threads (other than basting thread) in the construction of bespoke garments. With the exception of pre-waxed / silk thread.

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10. Health and Safety issues in the making of the pocket:

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10. Health and Safety issues in the making of the pocket:

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a) Posture, changing it every hour so as not to damage back
b) Using irons / pressing, taking care not to burn hands etc
c) Using a thimble to stop injury when hand sewing
d) Care taken when using sewing machine - turning it off when not in use etc.