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This version did not function because the bottom part did not slide on. It collided with the side and could not fit. I suspect removing the bottom part would allow it to fit. I attempted to file down the angles so it would slide on and it remained disfunctional

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We didn't do much research. The research we did involved taking measurements from the table. We also looked up aesthetic shapes.

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The original sketches are no longer existent. But the basics included all the measurements for the piece of wood

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This is the same as version 1 except I removed the problematic piece. It no longer sticks out. It is a little wobly so I am going to make the piece on the top right longer.

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This was the original design. The cable will go up through the middle and be pinched in the tighter part going out. It should be able to hold 4 cables.

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The design is simple yet beautiful. The cables come in through both sides and then rest in the larger hole

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The general box would be split into 3 separate designs. First the bottom box would be designed then an indentation would be made in the top to match the indentations on the top half. The top half would be designed the same as the bottom half except with a smaller height. Then the top design could be made separately and then glued on. I think I would add wholes on two of the sides of the top part to make it easier to remove. I think I will also make the final decorative piece have smaller dimensions to add a layered effect. I will also change the way the pieces attach to 6 notches on the bottom connection.

Source:https://parametrichouse.com/box1/

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The cable holder worked relatively well. There were issues with the legs as they had a smaller depth than the table. They were also too large to fit through the center hole. The rest of the design was completely functional.

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One of the legs fell off of the design. Although it worked we had other ports that weren't reachable for the cables, due to its very large size. The design was fully functional without the leg.

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The design was reprinted as seen in v2 and it worked very well. It did bend a bit due to thiness but that can be solved.

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The design involved all the dimensions getting larger for ex. 1x1, 2x2. To add a layered look. This would have been achieved by using multiple different rectangles or cutting out different sized pieces of one.

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The major issue that occurred was the lack of materials. I was only permitted to use one long rectangle. Which caused me to use one long rectangular piece of wood. I kept the width the same but changed the length.

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The final product worked very well. I ended up gluing a piece onto the bottom as to stop the pieces from falling off and making it moveable.

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Only the circular one cut the final product. One of them had super long legs allowing for it to be pulled up for easier insertion of the cable. The other only functioned in the center of the hole.

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These were the sketches of the dimensions for the top part. As well as the measurements of the bottom. This was to ensure that the boxes fit together perfectly.

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This was the original design for the bottom of the box. Later on I changed a few dimensions for easier translation to the top part of the box.

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The top was the same as the bottom but the sides were scaled down. This was to ensure a clear top and bottom. The tabs were then changed to be sticking out. To fit into the bottom design

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Something like this could work. The front(Where the earings are stored) would be one flat piece and the back part could be designed in 3 parts.

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The design could be propped up as detailed in the first image. This simply adds and idea of doing it out of a different material. As well as adding a shape to it. The larger idea is the material.

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This continues with the general material idea. The main thing I would take from this design would be the way the supports are made. This would allow for only 3 pieces to be included. I would still want it on a tilt. This would mean changing the slots to be angled(this would only be changing the two supporting pieces.

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I decided to stick with a plain rectangular shape as it would fit with the aesthetics of my room the best. The main idea is to have storage space for many studs(non-dangly earrings). There would be 2 side pieces(Identical) these would be the first pieces. The main piece and back support would be inserted next. All the dimensions of the holes will be 4 millimeters.

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The one major issue with this prototype was that the top dimensions were off. Meaning they didn't fit together perfectly. For the final I will simply change the dimensions in the top.

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I changed the dimensions of the top very simply making it even on both sides. I did not change the bottom as there were no major issues with it. If I wanted to there could be minor adjustments made to make it fit smoother, as well as details such as engravings.

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This one worked perfectly. I didn't add the holes or the back support to this prototype. This was testing how the pieces would interlock at an angle.

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This prototype I added the holes, and the back support.

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Prototype 2 was laser cut as the final. There was an additional inscription of my initials. It fit together a little loosely as 3.4 millimeters when it was meant to be 4 millimeters. This means my previous measurement's were minorly off. I don't think I will change this as the regulation in 4 milimeters and it will likely fit after painting.

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I made all the original cuts and they were very rough but accurate.

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When I painted it the edges were also painted meaning the major gaps are now gone and it fits together well. I painted purple covering the entirety of the supports and flowers on the main design.

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There were some minor issues with the hole being off center, as well as minor chipping on the inside where the matchbox was meant to be stored causing it to be slightly too large and giving perhaps a millimeter on one side of the match box.

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The engraving was slightly off center due to issues with the proportions of the art-board. The overall design was original therefor done with the paintbrush. It was a little bit too thick although I believe it to look fine.

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after assembling all of the pieces together using screws, there were still gaps. There were many gaps because of the unevenness of the cuts. I then filled these with sawdust and wood glue mixed together. Then I sanded it down lightly

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The following year I used the metal file to get of the larger wood chips from the gaps. I used the to do one of the sides that was extremely uneven. Then on the other sides I used the electric sander to smooth out the surface.

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On one of the sides it was suggested that I should use wood puddy. On this side although it was equally as uneven as the other side, I did not use the file. I will do more layers, then use the electric sander, and finally paint over it.

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I clamped each side, and sanded it down. Although you can see the color, I will paint over it. I used the power sander and rough then fine san paper.

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This is the inspiration behind the project. It will be a similar sign for the library conference room. So the first part of the process will involve designing the lines and using the shotbot to carve them.

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The letter spacing is too small so the cuts weren't separated. The design of the books was too intricate, so it made it hard to cut especially since the lines were thick they ran into each other. The wood wasn't flat which is why the top and bottom outlines are curved.

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The second draft is on the left, the first one is on the right. I decreased the font size and added a space between each letter. I also changed the books to a simpler design in hopes of more exact cuts without overlay. The problem seems to be the font, so I will change the font to one with a thinner stroke. I will also convert the books to a vector so I can make a smaller cut line by changing the stroke.

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The font size was kept the same but the font was changed. The books were also changed to a vector and the stroke was smaller to prevent the cuts running into each other. I also used the sander to sand off the red, thats why there is still red in some of the cracks. I think for the final draft I will use a wood stain and then cut. I will also horizontally compress the text to make the spaces between the letters smaller.

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I was testing the different stains on extra wood. I finally decided to do a mix of all the colors. Roughly 45% red (bottom color), 45% gray/green (top color), and 10% yellow (Middle color). The mix of these colors would match the rest of the colors in the library and the wood.

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I wanted to test the stains on the third draft to see if there were any other things I wanted to change. The stain seemed good but it was too dark inside of the letters. So I will stain the next wood piece before cutting so the text is still light.

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I cut the final piece with the jigsaw so it could fit to the dimensions of the ShotBot table. The dimensions were 500mm x 270mm. The depth of the piece was 11.78mm.

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I sanded the final piece then stained it with the same proportions I had previously tested. When it is dry it will be cut. I will also make alterations to the actual design before this piece is engraved.

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The original design was lost, it was saved onto a chip and not the computer. I redesigned within the Vcarve software. I decided to get rid of the books because I didn't like the book. Instead I changed the L to be more curved in cursive and draw attention.

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I re- cut with the new design. The problem was the y in the library touching the L. Additionally the outer lines weren't recalculated so there wasn't enough space. I also have decided to use a different material for the next draft, as this one doesn't look quite as nice.

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This was the first attempt on denim. It took two passes with the spatula.

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The Y letter was moved up so it didn't intersect with the tail of the L. Additionally I added more varnish on the edges using wax to stop it from leaking into the sides of the wood. The wood is much prettier and doesn't look quite as ugly. It also doesn't peel with the varnish like the other wood.

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Since there are no eyelets its very difficult to take them off by loosening the laces.

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To surmise the article the slope between the heel and ball of the foot is more important than the height of the heel itself.

Another thing to pay attention to is the distance between the heel and the sole, generally shorter distances correlate to higher heels and more discomfort.

(https://osteopathic.org/what-is-osteopathic-medicine/the-real-harm-in-high-heels/#:~:text=High%20heels%20put%20the%20foot,natural%20form%20of%20the%20body.%E2%80%9D)

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You can help prevent injuries and pain from high heels by regularly stretching the plantar fascia and calves.

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I went to a website selling heels to look for the difference. In the middle you can see the comparison with the distance. It aligns with the article with the shorter heels having the longer distance and the higher heels having the shorter distance.

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Total contact inserts- Can decrease foot pressure and spread out weight across more of the foot.

Heel height- Recommended between 3-5 cm for minimum changes in posture, gait, and stability.

The national library of medicine focuses on 3 things that contribute to the ergonomics and comfort of High heels.

1. Heel height

2. Heel base stability

3. Sole insert

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My first idea began with making a detachable heel. I will also consider making the heel stable and looking at sole inserts. The reason for the detachable heel is for maximum comfort. One of the main ergonomic issues with heels is heel height, a detachable heel would allow for the heel to be changed to a more comfortable height. This could be used at longer parties where high heels may be fun for a short while but become an uncomfortable annoyance after a few hours. An important thing to keep in mind would be the stability of the foot arch, if the heel height changes so would the angle of the arch, this should be addressed later in the design cycle.

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This was the first draft. There were no specific measurements done to work with shrinking after printing. That was one of the main issues when the design was printed. Additionally in my rush I did forget to use the join function when extruding instead of the new body. The part on the right is meant to attach to the sole of the shoe and slide into the part that is attached to the high heels.

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This time I took exact measurements, taking into account the shrinkage of the filament. The measurements should insure they fit together perfectly, the next step in the process would be working on the sole of the shoe, that should also be detachable. This would allow for a change in stability.

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Heel on the left, attachment on the right. It might be a bit to high it's increased in height by 2 cm since the last draft, so maybe it should be decreased again. That will ensure it remains within the autonomically acceptable height.

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I accounted for the shrinkage and it fits perfectly. However I could adjust the top piece and make it slightly wider. This would allow for more surface area of attachment. I might also attempt to make the top of the attachment flush with the top of the heel. I could also try to make it more of a sideways H shape, this would give and even larger surface area to the attachment and shoe.

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This involved more research, regarding heels that would fit me well. It should be kept in mind that this likely isn't very reliable. More research should be done regarding the science of it.

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The attachment was redone to allow for more surface area with the heel. However all the pressure would still be going down into a very slim support. I am going to attempt to further shorten that part. This will allow for more contact with the heel and more even weight distribution. It will be shortened by 3 mm.

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I shortened the middle part by 2.5 mm.

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How does a lava lamp work?

1. Heated by incandescent or Halogen lamp, or another heater

2. Water and mix of mineral oil, paraffin wax, carbon tetrachloride(toxic, so repalcements)

3. Die the mineral oil with translucent dies

4. When heated the wax mixture is less dense than water

5. At the top of the lamp, they cool and float back down, metallic wire breaks the surface tension

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Alternatives are needed for the carbon tetrachloride, as well as the heater.

Heater-

the heat needs to be 60 degrees celsius

infrared heat bulb (used for incubators)

Carbon tetrachloride-

trychlorothylene

methyl chloroform

Sources:

https://kitsch.fandom.com/wiki/Lava_lamp#:~:text=Operating%20temperatures%20of%20lava%20lamps,the%20top%20(too%20hot).

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Insulation for base:

Could the base be 3D printed?

Melting temp of PLA is 175 C

Halogen bulb can reach 300 C

Base CANNOT be 3D printed

Could wood be used?

Fire hazard

Wood burns at 232 C and 301 C

In theory bulb should reach 60 C

Maybe?

Materials:

Paraffin

Glass bottle

30W halogen bulb

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This is the dimensions for the glass bottle which was recycled from the cafeteria. I also did the dimensions for the stand which I will design next time, I still am struggling with what material to choose, as I am unsure of the safest material to use. I don't know wether or not it actually would burn but I'm not eager to test, as I have yet to find a way to do so safely. The halogen light bulb has also been ordered and is on the way. I think the inside of the stand needs to be metal and reflective, so maybe an old tin can could work.

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I found that it is recommended mixing the water with 70% isopropyl alcohol to change the density of the water and alcohol mixture. This is what would change the temperature at which the wax would float around. Most sources say that the paraffin is mixed with carbon tetrachloride but I will not be doing that, as it doesn't have a major effect on the lava lamp. Additionally carbon tetrachloride isn't safe.

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Disclaimer: This formula is according to a random reddit user meaning there is a high probability it won't actually work. It isn't a scientific article or anything thats been tested.

The formula is (for 100g of lava mixture:

42g perc (Perchloroethylene)

10g paraffin oil

48g paraffin wax

Note: This isn't ratios its by grams so each of them should be weighed. I also need to do more research into perc, its safety concerns and if its something available.

Link: https://www.reddit.com/r/Lavalamps/comments/x1bio7/lava_lamp_from_scratch_day_9_final_formula_and/

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From the Lavalamps community on Reddit: Lava Lamp from scratch, day 9: final formula and details.

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