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Before the garment can be cut and assembled, the fabric needs to be pressed and shrunk. To do this, steam is applied to the wrong side, without the iron touching the fabric. The air bed is used in conjunction with this, as a means of setting the fabric.

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Fabrics and Trimmings used in the making of the Waistcoat

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Fabrics and Trimmings used in the making of the Waistcoat

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1. Wool check fabric.
2. Canvas/linen.
3. Silesia (pocketing).
3. Polyester lining.
4. Basting thread.
5. Waxed thread.

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In the world of bespoke tailoring, nothing is more important than the "basted fitting". This is the essential, time-honored process of fitting the suit on the client's body as it morphs from a mere piece of cloth into an impeccably tailored bespoke suit. It takes 3-7 basted fittings to accomplish this, and the amount of fittings is totally dependent on the ease or difficulty of the client's particular physique and body type.

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Observations of Men's Style by Bespoke Tailor, Johnathan Behr.

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The skeleton /rough baste:

The pocket positions are shown using mark stitches. The jacket is still canvased to give it shape. But all the darts and side seams are ‘basted’ together temporarily. Skeleton basted jackets are created when the jacket is particularly unusual or the positioning of the pockets, hems or front edges are likely to change.

Pocket baste:

The pockets and darts are sewn into the jacket. This is used when a customer’s body shape has changed through weight loss or gain.

Forward fitting:

The facings are on the jacket, the pockets and darts are all sewn in and the seams are temporarily basted in.

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Forward Fitting - Anderson & Sheppard - The Notebok Blog

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During the last few months I've been learning how to make the different types of fittings. I began by learning how to close the shoulders of the jacket and distributing the fullness evenly. After the closing of the shoulders we moved on to the under collar, the collar has to be stretched before being basted onto the jacket.

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Important factors when taking measurements:

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Important factors when taking measurements:

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1. The customer should stand in a relaxed position to ensure the garment will fit their natural posture.
2. When measuring, ensure ease is given so that the garment has room for movement and is not too tight.
3. Measure the correct areas of the body so that the proportions are correct when making the garment.

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After the cloth has been striked and the pattern has been cut, the waistcoat should be basted together ready for fitting the customer.

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Bag out waistcoat and press edges of lining 2mm inwards. Side stitch all around waistcoat edges, and side stitch all around lining edges.

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Baste back linings inside and outside to front panels and stitch together, leaving a gap on one side seam that is big enough for a hand.

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Attach straps to outside back lining by machine stitching in place. Prick stitch straps 10cm in from side edge.

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Stitch centre back panels together, both for inside lining and outside lining. Press seams open. Fold strap pieces in half, right sides together, and stitch 1cm from edge. Turn out.

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Fold facing to inside, making sure that the seam is folded a couple of mm inwards so that it is not visible on the outside.
Where the facing hasn't been machine stitched, fold seam allowance inwards so that it is not flush with the edge.

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Cut pattern pieces and use mark stitch to indicate facing, hem, pocket and dart on all sides.
Sew darts in front panels, one on each side. Do the same for the canvas, position the dart slightly towards the left of the original dart, to prevent bulk. This dart is cut out, and a thin strip of canvas is stitched over the closed dart and reinforced with zig zag stitches.

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Make up welt pockets in the position indicated, using the steps learnt in term 2.

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Fix inlay of welt pocket using raw edge felling, anf then attach pocket bag using the felling stitch.

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Once all the tape has been basted, the next step will be to serge stitch the inner edges of the tape, using matching thread to the waistcoat.
This stitch is only meant to catch the inside of the fabric, beneath canvas, and should not show on the right side of garment.

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Turn hem up, making sure that the folded edge is not flush with the edge of the garment. Fell the seam closed, and cross stitch hem.

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Baste lower facing to waistcoat front, right sides together.
Machine stitch foot width, curving up 2cm to along the fold line of upper facing. Do the same for the hem, stitching along fold line 2cm out.

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Snip into side edge approx. 1cm, 5cm up from hem.
Fold in the lower side edge and hem in one continuous line.

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Baste tape around the edges on the front panels, all except the shoulder edge.
On curved edges, such as armhole and front chest, use ease to add shape to the garment. This is done using a few tight back stitches to ripple the fabric slightly.

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Cross stitch facing and hem to canvas, using matching thread to waistcoat.
Where the facing hasn't been machine stitched, fold seam allowance inwards so that it is not flush with the edge.
Also fold armhole in 1cm and cross stitch.

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Trim lining to shape of front panel, 1cm larger around armhole and hem, 2cm larger across centre front.
Fold under lining a couple of mm smaller than waistcoat around armhole and hem, 1cm along upper front and about 4cm through the button stand. Baste in place, before felling all around.

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For front lining, cut a large rectangle of lining much larger than the front panel.
Use dry heat to make a 1cm pleat running through the centre of the waistcoat, curving slightly through the chest area.
Baste in position, and then baste again to waistcoat, adding approx. 2cm of fullness to the chest area.

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Trim canvas of front panels, using the measurements indicated in the diagram below. Trim 0.5cm above hem
Note that the diagram indicates that 1cm is trimmed away along the side edge below armhole. HOWEVER this is not necessary to be trimmed and thus would otherwise not require any tape on this side.

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The Art of Garment Making Chap V: Waistcoats - Various Styles

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The Art of Garment Making Chap V: Waistcoats - Various Styles

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The Art of Garment Making Chap V: Waistcoats - Various Styles - The Trouser and Waistcoat Forum

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The Art of Garment Making Chap V: Waistcoats - Various Styles - posted in The Trouser and Waistcoat Forum:

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Baste canvas to front panel of waistcoat, as indicated.