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The rise of life cycle analysis and the fall of sustainability

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The rise of life cycle analysis and the fall of sustainability

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UN Helps Fashion Industry Shift to Low Carbon | UNFCCC

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UN Climate Change News, 6 September 2018 - As the fashion community gathers in New York for the opening of this year's fashion week, the 2.5 trillion USD industry is experiencing a significant transformation.With the help of the UN, more and more corporations are making the shift to sustainable business models which can help fight climate change and achieve the Sustainable Development Goals.

The fashion industry, including the production of all clothes which people wear, contributes to around 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions due to its long supply chains and energy intensive production. The industry consumes more energy than the aviation and shipping industry combined.

Shifting practices in the fashion industry to reduce carbon emissions is key to limiting warming to as close to 1.5°C above pre-Industrial Revolution levels, in line with the goals of the Paris Agreement on Climate Change.

To celebrate fashion designers and international companies that promote sustainability, UN Climate Change, in cooperation with the Italian Ministry of Environment and other partners, regularly hosts an alternative fashion show called the " Green Fashion Week". Its 7 th edition took place in Dubai earlier this year and illustrated how sustainable fashion brands are already setting the paths towards less destructive business models.

In addition to its carbon intensive supply chain and production processes, the fashion industry consumes a great deal of other precious resources.

To make just one pair of denim jeans, 10,000 liters of water is required to just grow the one kilo of cotton needed for the pair of jeans. In comparison, one person would take 10 years to drink 10,000 liters of water.

Cumulatively, the fashion industry produces about 20% of global waste water. Furthermore, 85% of textiles end up in landfills or are incinerated when most of these materials could be reused.

One good example of how ambition to tackle climate change is growing in the fashion industry is collaborative initiative called the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, co-sponsored by 10 UN organizations including UN Climate Change.

The World Bank contributes to the alliance through its Connect4Climate Initiative, a partnership that brings together more than 500 actors around the world to support climate leadership. Most recently, the initiative launched the virtual reality project " X-Ray Fashion VR " which takes the audience through the lifespan of garment production and highlights the adverse impacts on our climate and environment.

To help build awareness around fashion's impact on the environment, UN Development Program Goodwill Ambassador Michelle Yeoh explains the use of forest based materials for sustainable fashion in this video " Made in Forests ".

UN Climate Change encourages sustainable fashion through its Climate Neutral Now (CNN) campaign which connects organizations that want to offset carbon emission with investments in carbon emissions reductions across the developing world.

Lindita Xhaferi-Salihu, who works for Climate Neutral Now, described CNN's involvement with sustainable fashion as "kick-starting a multi-stakeholder initiative to mobilize fashion around climate actionthrough three work streams: enabling "within sector" collaboration; facilitating engagement with policymakers; and catalyzing action and providing recognition."

At last year's major UN Climate Change Conference in Bonn, Germany, the fashion industry outlined which steps it is taking to support the goals of the Paris Climate Change agreement.

For example, the fast fashion retailer H&M shared their strategy to be 100% run on renewable energy by 2040 with a fully circular production model, where the by-product of one industry serves the objective of another.
Other Inspiring Examples of Climate Action in the Fashion Industry
The 2018 Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report also contains positive news. There was a 6% increase in general sustainability efforts across the entire garment industry since last year's report. The weakest points in the industry are small and medium sized enterprises in the entry- to mid-price segments which comprise just over 50% of the entire industry, pointing to issues of scale in implementing general sustainability measures. However, new data presented in the 2017 report shows that a failure to implement sustainability measures into garment production will cause companies to lose out on a 2% increase in earnings by 2030.

Additionally, the famous blue jean manufacturer Levi, Strauss & Co has announced a new climate change action plan. Using Science Based Targets, the company plans to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 40% across its global supply chain by 2025. The plan also includes a 90% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions in all owned-and-operated facilities, which will be achieved by investing in onsite renewable energy and energy efficiency upgrades.

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UN Helps Fashion Industry Shift to Low Carbon | UNFCCC

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UN Climate Change News, 6 September 2018 - As the fashion community gathers in New York for the opening of this year's fashion week, the 2.5 trillion USD industry is experiencing a significant transformation.With the help of the UN, more and more corporations are making the shift to sustainable business models which can help fight climate change and achieve the Sustainable Development Goals.

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The fast-fashion chain has, however, faced accusations of "greenwashing" from some campaigners, who argue that H&M's entire business model - which requires selling large volumes of clothing at low prices - is the very antithesis of sustainability. H&M, however, argues it is fully committed to eventually becoming a "100 per cent circular business", although there is clearly a long way to go before that can be achieved.

Another big concern is whether it's possible for workers throughout the supply chain to be paid a living wage, considering the low prices that H&M is selling its products at. There's been an increased focus on the treatment of garment workers, who were left in a desperate situation due to brands cancelling $3.18bn of orders in Bangladesh alone at the start of the pandemic (H&M has committed to paying for its orders in full). According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, up to 93 per cent of brands don't pay a living wage to its suppliers. While H&M has outlined a strategy to create the "best preconditions for fair living wages," campaigners have called for a more concrete commitment to ensure all workers are paid properly.

Investing in sustainable brands

All this means consumers, who are used to low prices, may have to pay more to ensure the garments they're purchasing are being produced as sustainably and ethically as possible. "If you're paying €3 for a shirt, let's really think about what went into making that and the sacrifices that came along with [it]," Burns says. "That's not to say a shirt needs to cost €900; I think there's certainly an in-between [price]."

The mantra "buy better and buy less" is helpful when considering the affordability of sustainable fashion; if you invest in a garment that you can wear for years to come, instead of wearing it a few times and discarding it, the cost per wear automatically becomes lower. "Change has to happen in consumption patterns, too," she continues. "Buy less, but buy things that you want to keep for longer."

Consumer demand is what's going to make sustainable fashion affordable for all - meaning that it's important to support brands with strong eco-credentials, and ask more of those that aren't currently doing enough. That will lead to brands investing more in sustainable materials and technologies and in turn, lead to prices falling. "It's supply and demand; as demand evolves, the industry is working to match this demand," Burns concludes. "There's power in the decisions that consumers [make]."

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Alice Cary, Emily Chan and Laura Hawkins

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Why Isn't Sustainable Fashion More Affordable?

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In spite of the growing demand for eco-friendly clothing, most consumers don't want to pay more for it. So, what's the solution? We speak to experts from H&M, Ninety Percent and Fashion For Good to find out

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http://pages.nosto.com/rs/339-ZHG-780/images/EN-Sustainability-Summary-2019%20%281%29.pdf

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Survey: Consumer sentiment on sustainability in fashion

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While the fashion industry is reorganizing for the next normal after the COVID-19 crisis, European consumers have become even more engaged in sustainability topics. That presents an opportunity for the fashion industry to reiterate its commitment to sustainability. Moreover, now could be the moment to drive less seasonality in the fashion system.

Our survey was conducted in April 2020 across more than 2,000 UK and German consumers. It is part of a firmwide effort to capture consumer sentiment during the COVID-19 crisis.

Sentiment toward sustainability

Amid the shock and uncertainty that the fashion sector is facing during the COVID-19 crisis, there is a silver lining for the environment: two-thirds of surveyed consumers state that it has become even more important to limit impacts on climate change. Additionally, 88 percent of respondents believe that more attention should be paid to reducing pollution.

In practice, consumers have already begun changing their behaviors accordingly. Of consumers surveyed, 57 percent have made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact, and more than 60 percent report going out of their way to recycle and purchase products in environmentally friendly packaging (Exhibit 1).

Emphasis on social and environmental commitments

While the industry is reorganizing for the next normal, it should consider that consumers want fashion players to uphold their social and environmental responsibilities amid the crisis. Of surveyed consumers, 67 percent consider the use of sustainable materials to be an important purchasing factor, and 63 percent consider a brand's promotion of sustainability in the same way.

Additionally, surveyed consumers expect brands to take care of their employees, as well as workers in Asia, during the COVID-19 crisis (Exhibit 2). That highlights the need for brands to maintain ethical commitments, despite the crisis.

Overall, it is imperative to build trust and transparency with consumers, as 70 percent are sticking with brands they know and trust during the crisis. Of surveyed consumers, 75 percent consider a trusted brand to be an important purchasing factor. However, younger consumers, particularly Gen Zers and millennials, are more likely to experiment with smaller or lesser-known brands during the crisis (Exhibit 3).

Shift in purchasing behavior

With 88 percent of consumers expecting a slow recovery or a recession, general consumer confidence is low. As a result, consumer spending on fashion is also changing. More than 60 percent of consumers report spending less on fashion during the crisis, and approximately half expect that trend to continue after the crisis passes. However, consumers are likely to cut back on accessories, jewelry, and other discretionary categories before reducing their spending on apparel and footwear (Exhibit 4).

When it comes to making changes to purchasing behavior, younger consumer segments are willing to buy cheaper versions of products they normally buy-approximately 50 percent of Gen Zers and millennials in our survey report trading down (Exhibit 5).

The COVID-19 crisis has recruited new consumers to online channels: 43 percent of surveyed consumers who didn't purchase fashion online before the crisis have started using online channels. And that shift is unlikely to reverse, as nearly 28 percent of consumers expect to buy less at physical stores-a trend seen in higher shares in Generation Z and millennial respondents (Exhibit 6).

Mindset on fashion cycles and circular business models

The survey findings indicate that the consumer mindset is not strongly tied to the fashion cycle, so now could be the moment to drive less seasonality in the fashion system. Of surveyed consumers, 65 percent are supportive of fashion brands delaying the launch of new collections as a result of the COVID-19 crisis. Additionally, 58 percent of respondents are less concerned about the fashion of clothing than other factors following the crisis, and consumers now cite newness as one of the least important attributes when making purchases (Exhibit 7).

As a result of the COVID-19 crisis, 65 percent of respondents are planning to purchase more durable fashion items, and 71 percent are planning to keep the items they already have for longer (Exhibit 8). Additionally, 57 percent of respondents are willing to repair items to prolong usage.

Particularly among younger European consumers, there is interest in purchasing secondhand fashion items following the COVID-19 crisis. Of surveyed consumers, around 50 percent of Gen Zers and millennials expect to purchase more items secondhand (Exhibit 9).

Overall, consumer sentiment suggests that the COVID-19 crisis could serve as a reset opportunity for players in the apparel, footwear, and luxury sectors to strengthen their sustainability commitments and accelerate industry-wide changes, such as reduced seasonality and scaling of circular business models.

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Survey: Consumer sentiment on sustainability in fashion

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Consumer engagement in sustainability has deepened during the COVID-19 crisis, as consumers demand that fashion players act responsibly, and consider the social and environmental impact of their businesses.

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Where fashion stands on sustainability: Data crunching, Laws and a long way to go.

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Fashion Tackles sustainable sourcing at scale

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https://wwd-com.arts.idm.oclc.org/business-news/business-features/fashion-sustainable-sourcing-at-scale-1203348254/

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https://reports.fashionforgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Sorting-for-Circularity-Europe_Fashion-for-Good.pdf

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The new exhibition, News From the Future, is now open at the Fashion for Good Museum!

Fashion for Good is here to make all fashion good

Fashion for Good is a global initiative to inspire change and drive the collective movement to make fashion a force for good. We work directly with the fashion industry to innovate towards solutions that are better for people and the planet and empower behaviour change through our sustainable fashion Museum.

We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. By clicking "Accept All", you consent to the use of ALL the cookies and our privacy policy.

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Fashion for Good is a global initiative to inspire change and drive the collective movement to make fashion a force for good. We work directly with the fashion industry to innovate towards solutions that are better for people and the planet, and empower behaviour change through our sustainable fashion Museum.

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Consumer Confidence shrinks as expectation of living costs rise

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Rising Living Costs Impact How People shop sustainably in the UK: Report

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Barriers 20towards 20a 20systemic 20change 20in 20the 20clothing 20industry

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Barriers towards a systemic change in the clothing industry

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Barriers towards a systemic change in the clothing industry

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Almost all of us own fast fashion pieces. Whether it's the ease of next-day delivery, the value of a certain brand, or the celeb-inspired looks from online retailers, fast fashion clothing is easy, accessible, social and timely. So, when a product hits all of the elements of the EAST framework, we can instantly see why fast fashion is so popular!

This is bad news for the planet, but cheap, disposable, poor-quality clothing isn't just bad for the environment - it's also unethical. Every five minutes, 9,513 garments are being dumped in the UK ( Oxfam) - that's 9,513 garments dumped by the time you finish reading this blog. Taking it one step further, that's 350,000 tonnes or £140 million a year of clothing gone to waste ( Clothes Aid). Staggering, we know.

Unfortunately, those facts don't tell the full story - there's more. According to WRAP, the total footprint of clothing in the UK was 26.2 million tonnes of CO2 in 2016. Half a million tonnes of plastic fibres are shed during washing and end up in the ocean ( Ellen MacArthur Foundation). Workers globally are owned USD 11.85 billion ( Clean Clothes Campaign). Throwaway fashion isn't just bad for waste - it's bad for our oceans, workers and climate change.

Fortunately, this never-ending list of statistics isn't the be-all and end-all. Clothing brands, organisations and charities across the world are working to address fast fashion and move the fashion economy to a more sustainable, circular economy.

WRAP, a charity established to promote and encourage sustainable resources, created the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan to bring together charity retailers, fashion retailers and textile recyclers to reduce the impacts of UK clothing consumption. By sharing their expertise and best practice, convening working groups and setting targets, WRAP made it easy for big brands like ASOS, Marks and Spencer and Tesco to reduce waste to landfill, carbon footprint and water footprint. Providing brands with easy access to education, guidelines and training, WRAP has covered all three elements of the Behaviour Change Wheel, allowing brands to change their behaviour.

The Textiles Action Network, also from WRAP, works to uses the principles of a circular economy to re-shape production, taking a different approach to reducing waste. This network ensures that more reused clothing is sold, clothes are designed to be made circular and more circular raw material is in new clothing than linear raw material.

When it comes to shelving fast fashion, consumers are also waking up and making a difference. Last year, after news came out that fast-fashion brand Boohoo was using a factory that pays their employers £3.50 an hour, a mass boycott from environmentally-conscious customers ensued. As a consequence of this, and big brands like ASOS dropping their collections, Boohoo lost more than £1bn in value in just one day - not something to be sniffed at!

Conscious shopping doesn't just stop at behaviour change through boycotting the worst offenders - 81% of people said they are more likely to buy from a brand with a positive approach to sustainability ( SmartestEnergy). Promoting the fact that such a high percentage of people want to shop more sustainably is a key way to change behaviour, as it promotes social norms - no one wants to be seen as supporting the bad guy. As more people change the way they shop, costs of production for ethical brands can decrease, and more sustainable options can open up and compete with the big polluting brands - eventually leading sustainable options to become the default option for clothes shopping. A real challenge with this is a "values-action-gap" - 81% of people say they want to shop more ethically, but are they putting their money where their mouth is? Some people may be unwilling to spend more to shop ethically, but that's where vintage comes in.

As shoppers increasingly turn away from polluting companies, the popularity of second-hand and sustainable clothing rises. Depop, a community-powered platform selling small brands and second-hand, now has more than 30 million global users - 90% of which are activism-conscious Gen Zs and young Millennials ( Depop). While second-hand was once something to be shunned, it's now a key trend for younger people who want to wear unique clothes and limit their impact on the planet, again helping to promote second-hand through social norms and trends. While trending items can be expensive on second-hand marketplaces, which in itself shows the popularity of vintage, a good browse in the local charity shop is usually an accessible, cheap way for anyone to pick up something unique and eco-friendly. Making vintage cool is a great way to help battle fast fashion issues as it gives people on any income the opportunity to stay stylish without impacting the environment. Plus, there are a few vintage-loving changemakers at Social Change UK who would give you the thumbs up for your second-hand looks!

After last year's events and shocking (but unsurprising) reports like the IPCC reports, people are putting increasing pressure on influencers as a messenger to use their platforms for good. This doesn't just mean speaking up about important political and social issues, it also means shopping ethically, particularly for fashion influencers. Many influencers have young, impressionable audiences, so Instagram Reels and TikToks on clothing hauls shipped from China just doesn't make the cut anymore. Fortunately, many influencers are taking this new lifestyle in their stride by making an effort to decline gifted items they don't need, reduce "wear it once" looks and shop more ethically. A key trend for fashion influencers is choosing items from zero-waste brands with limited runs on clothes like Reformation and Molby The Label - authority bias is where people tend to follow the leader, so pushing ethical brands as the latest trend is a great way to combat pollution through fashion.

Finally, more and more brands and companies are turning to rental fashion. A recent report, infamous in the fashion world, stated that rental fashion is the least sustainable method for wearing and ditching clothes. However, understanding the nuance of this report is key - rental platforms must choose ethical clothes, carbon-neutral deliveries, sustainable packaging and eco-friendly washing. Consumers also need to play their part, choosing from rental platforms that genuinely care for the environment rather than profit margins, as well as carefully deciding whether or not rental is really the better option (going to wear that dress once? Rent it. Going to wear it 100s of times? You may as well buy it and donate it at the end of its life). With this in mind, it's clear there is still room for rentals in sustainable fashion.

Companies across the world are working together to make fashion more sustainable, and people are becoming increasingly aware of the impact their clothing choices have on the environment. While these facts and figures can encourage eco-conscious shoppers to stay motivated in their mission, and the rise in popularity of sustainable and vintage fashion is providing people with more opportunities to shop ethically, many people simply cannot afford sustainable style at this time. That's why charities like WRAP are working on changing mindsets - a t-shirt can only cost £2 because someone or something is losing out along the way, but a quality t-shirt at a slightly higher price point will last much longer. However, the real secret to success is for consumers to demand businesses reduce the price of clothing while ditching unethical production practices. Ultimately, this can only be done by increasing the popularity of ethical choices, and there are stand-out companies that are well on their way to making slow fashion the future of fashion.

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Almost all of us own fast fashion pieces. Whether it's the ease of next-day delivery, the value of a certain brand, or the celeb-inspired looks from online retailers, fast fashion clothing is easy, accessible, social and timely. So, when a product hits all of the elements of the EAST framework, we can instantly see why fast fashion is so popular!

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The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society : Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times

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The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society : Global Perspectives from Early Modern to Contemporary Times

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Abstract

The aim of this chapter is to provide insight into the consumer motives to participate in new mobile-enabled reselling and swapping platforms. A netnographic analysis of app reviews from the U.S. iTunes app store is used to identify consumer motives for participating in mobile-enabled fashion sharing marketplaces. The findings from the study indicate that consumers are mainly driven by self-oriented motives (convenience, recreation, and product portfolio) whereas they are less inclined to occupy critical positions by considering reselling and swapping as a means to distance themselves from the conventional fashion industry. Within the last decade, the sharing economy phenomenon has gained momentum across the world. However, many initiatives are struggling to reach enough consumers and create a critical mass. Knowledge about consumer motivations may help sharing initiatives and policy-makers to strengthen the services and change consumer mindsets. Consumer behavior in the sharing economy has received limited scholarly attention. This exploratory study provides new insights into consumer motivations for adopting fashion reselling and swapping platforms.

Keywords

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Acknowledgements

The study was conducted as part of the Mistra Future Fashion project ( http://www.mistrafuturefashion.com).

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Department of Management, Society & Communication, Copenhagen Business School, 2000, Frederiksberg, Denmark

Sarah Netter & Esben Rahbek Gjerdrum Pedersen

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Sarah Netter .

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Editors and Affiliations

Hong Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Dr. Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu

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© 2019 Springer Nature Singapore Pte Ltd.

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Netter, S., Pedersen, E.R.G. (2019). Motives of Sharing: Examining Participation in Fashion Reselling and Swapping Markets. In: Muthu, S. (eds) Sustainable Fashion: Consumer Awareness and Education . Textile Science and Clothing Technology. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-13-1262-5_2

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Motives of Sharing: Examining Participation in Fashion Reselling and Swapping Markets

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The aim of this chapter is to provide insight into the consumer motives to participate in new mobile-enabled reselling and swapping platforms. A netnographic analysis of app reviews from the U.S. iTunes app store is used to identify consumer motives for participating...

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