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*Additional data and figures with a higher resolution can be accessed through GitHub.

Team Members

Stefan Laser (facilitator), Xinyue Chen, Maria Lompe, Suay Melisa Ozkula, Estrid Sørensen, Lena Teigeler, Mariangela Vespa, Tianshi Zhao. Designers: Matteo Bettini, Valentina Pallacci, Fabiola Papini, Marìa Paula Vargas Triana.

Contents

Summary of Key Findings

Greenwashing is now an established term in the digital public sphere. Studying claims of greenwashing - e.g., when companies are criticized - offers a compelling case study of inauthentic activities due to its ambiguous form and content.

There are popular targets, common sentiments and established routines of greenwashing accusation, yet there is plenty of room for interpretation, diversion, turnarounds and surprises. Calling out greenwashing is a way to establish a critical account and call for accountability. However, one key problem is that the discourse quickly lapses into superficial truth-politics and prefabricated critique patterns.

URL sources and contents (i.e. materials/evidence) on "greenwashing" are by and large (successfully) targeted towards progressive movement actors. Marginalised discourses (such that could be related to potential anti-programmes) were not found. Even so, significant differences existed based on the platforms where these URLs have shown high engagement.

Cross-platform analyses of Greenwashing claims illuminate different cultures of Greenwashing. The approach of a research endeavour (e.g., user focus vs evidence focus; single-platform vs cross-platform) significantly influences how Greenwashing is understood, enacted, and mobilised.

General Introduction

There is a new global interest in ecological, so-called green transformation through infrastructural reform and investment. Take the example of a "Green New Deal" as discussed in the US or EU, and the "Belt and Road" initiative in China. Such reforms are public matters of concern, tied to national and transnational initiatives and shaped by propositions of various interest groups. Among the crucial groups are activists, non-governmental institutions and engaged scientists. Such initiatives are intended to give companies new vitality, all under the umbrella of sustainability. This provides anchor points for global controversies such as those gathering around climate change (cf. climaps.eu). At the centre of the issue space are capitalist corporations and state initiatives responsible for mining and production systems. Our project examines a particular mode by which corporate and state actors are scrutinised and held accountable for changes pursued or called upon. We discuss greenwashing claims: when actors are accused that their activities or reforms only seem sustainable and that corresponding measures are first and public relations efforts or insensitive to harmful consequences of industrial practices. Greenwashing accusations, we argue, play a significant role in shaping the public debate. They build on decades of systemic and cultural critique and add new avenues for intervention (Klein 2015), which actors mobilise in various ways. These claims impact negotiations on major "green" reforms and their role should be taken seriously.

However, the way greenwashing is uttered and then attached to actors may differ a lot, with a large grey area as to what is actually defined as a greenwashing problem and the consequences of an accusation. This ambiguity is further reinforced by the mediation of digital media. Social networks, newsfeeds and web resources in circulation add new dynamics to the discussion of greenwashing; indeed, in the nested relations and multiple temporalities of digital platforms, the phenomenon is produced in a particular way. Our project argues that Greenwashing claims offer a compelling case study for digital method advancement insofar as they demarcate an ambiguous issue space where the actors involved grapple with questions of inauthenticity in a unique way. In contrast to matters of toxicity, hate crimes, trolling, or bot intervention - albeit partially entangled with it - users and scholars alike need to check both the claim practices and oneself for their stance. At times, a greenwashing accusation feels inauthentic; it can sound annoying. Still, the normative classification is more difficult to establish than other topics treated under the theme of "fake everything." Our methods can learn from engaging with this ambiguity. Simultaneously, our project also speaks to the rich scholarly discourse about the phenomenon of greenwashing (claims) more generally (Gatti et al. 2019, de Freitas Netto et al. 2020). In this discussion, authenticity (especially looking through the lens of digital mediation) has not been systematically addressed.

Following an interpretative research approach, we want to understand what's going on when people engage with Greenwashing. This project asks how greenwashing accusations are enacted in social media and the web, inquiring how actors manoeuvre authenticity issues. We divide our inquiry into two distinct projects that explore the themes of greenwashing, in_authenticity and protest in their own yet interlinked way. Group number 1 unravels Twitter events and their relations, with the keyword of Greenwashing as the main query. Group number 2 follows URL network dynamics and issue language across platforms, focusing on the most engaged with Greenwashing URLs on Facebook, Twitter and Reddit.

Group 1: Twitter activity on #Greenwashing

1.1. Group Members

Stefan Laser, Postdoctoral researcher, Siegen University, CRC Media of Cooperation

Lena Teigeler, PhD Student, Siegen University, CRC Transformation of the Popular

Xinyue Chen, Master Student, University of Science and Technology of China, Science Communication Center of Chinese Academy of Sciences

1.4. Introduction

Initial exploratory data analysis emphasised that Greenwashing has only been a major buzzword thrown around in digital discourses for a few years (Fig. 1). Now, however, it is a permanent feature. This insight runs counter to theories about the development of greenwashing claims in social media. In 2013, Lyon and Montgomery suggested that companies would be cautious with strong PR campaigns online and that users would therefore find less space to challenge them. However, we are not so much interested in an approximation or even a classification of certain problematic corporate social responsibility practices (there's plenty of great work on this, e.g. Adi et al. 2018). We want to understand how users on Twitter understand and use greenwashing as a term and what dynamics characterise it. Thus, we argue against a substantial understanding of greenwashing and unravel the issue space through lived practices and relations.

Fig. 1: "Greenwashing" on Twitter (count/day since 2008 and until mid-2021, stacked/year)

1.3. Research Questions

The project started out with the broad questions: When and how is "Greenwashing" mobilised? When and in which frequency is the term used? Who is participating in its usage and how do users refer to each other? Which events is the term attributed to? To what kind of discussions is the term attached? Initial observations then lead to a specification of research questions:

RQ#1: What makes a peak in the frequency of tweets containing 'greenwashing'?
RQ#2: What are the semantics of greenwashing?

The first question resulted from the observation that greenwashing seems to be most frequently used in relation to specific events, like a french union strike or #Earthday. The second question aims at describing how authenticity is addressed within the Twitter discourse. We use both questions to get at the heart of greenwashing claim activities on Twitter.

1.4. Methodology

We followed "greenwashing" as an online discursive feature to reveal its distinct way of addressing the inauthentic. Our analysis was driven by a hermeneutical circle. Through statistical analysis and visualisations, we first gained a broad overview of key relations. We then used particular hints in social media data to discuss outstanding features of the dataset and qualitative differences. Finally, the differences were used to generate new questions about the shape of the dataset more generally.

1.4.1. Initial Data Sets

The initial data set was retrieved via the Twitter APIv2 through academic researcher accesses with the help of the DMI toolkit 4CAT and the python script twarc(2). It consists of all tweets from 1 January 2014 until 7 July 2021 containing the word 'greenwashing' (greenwashing OR GREENWASHING OR Greenwashing OR #greenwashing OR #Greenwashing OR #GREENWASHING). This selection certainly doesn't incorporate all forms of discourses around greenwashing (accusations) on Twitter, as users might use different wording to point at similar phenomena. Still, turning exclusively to tweets containing this word bears the potential to shed light on specific dynamics around accusations that describe a particular form of inauthentic behaviour precisely in one word. Through the query, our research thus centres on claims of Greenwashing. Fig. 2 summarizes the research protocol we thus followed. We also briefly worked with other data sets and explored certain sub-issues. Before any queries, members of the group explored the Twitter-sphere through manual search to test the topic's relevance. And beyond the primary dataset, we also scraped the most relevant correlated hashtags, which gave us a broad (too broad) dataset of climate change discussion. Finally, querying certain company accounts (such as @shell or @DB-Bahn), we looked at how users mention particular accounts over time.

Fig. 2: Research protocol

During the project, the data sample was refined: As the usage of greenwashing on Twitter has increased since 2014, and 2021 appearing to be the year with the most tweets containing the term, we decided to focus on 30th June 2020 until 30th June 2021. Then, we selected three days out of this period to further zoom in and observe the dynamics taking place on these specific days. To compare possible cultural differences, we also introduce a Chinese case of consumers' complaints about big companies' usage of paper straws which is regarded as a typical phenomenon of greenwashing in China. The reasoning for this selection is described below.

Publicly, we store only the Tweet IDs of the Tweets included in the data analysis. We do not keep full tweets due to restrictions in the Twitter terms of use. You can access the IDs and the Python code we used, plus also plots generated, through GitHub.

1.4.2. Event profiles

The data and meta-data provided by Twitter are plenty; what is required is a critical reflection of the wealth of metrics being supplied. We draw on Roger's suggestion to reframe engagement through unravelling social issue networks. This requires following "(1) the specific actors that give voice to the issue with the greatest strength, (2) the issue areas or fields taking up the concern and those ignoring it, (3) the longevity or durability of actors' concern, (4) its specific articulation as well as counter articulation, and (5) the set actors who specify the concern in the same manner but who may not be allies." (Rogers 2018, 455) We tackle this research programme through the creation of "event profiles": a combination of time series data, Gephi network visualisation, user and hashtag information ranked by popularity and engagement, and granular analysis of scattered drivers of spikes in activity. Our aim is to identify "events" and narrow down the data pool to individual days and their dynamics.

1.4.2. Topic modelling and keyword distribution

In order to approach the question of how authenticity is addressed within the Twitter discourse, we worked with a combination of quantitative (machine-learning-based) and qualitative approaches. Our dataset consisted of close to 1M tweets. How to get an understanding of the themes and words commonly used in this vast collection of text?

We started with topic-modelling (Latent Dirichlet Allocation) to map the themes the tweets assemble around (see the Jupyter notebook on GitHub). Topic modelling uses co-occurrences and calculates the probability of words appearing together. It reads documents as a larger collection of words and forces them into a fixed order. The same word may appear in multiple topics, although with different partners. Additionally, topic modelling gives a "weight" to each word for a topic, thus representing a hierarchy of terms for each topic. What we get as a result are clusters of words that are supposed to be related to each other. We looked closely at the results of models and the meaning of the assembled words to give each topic a name. Extensive data cleaning is the backdrop for the analysis. After multiple rounds of testing, we ended up focusing on English text only, removed the "greenwashing" word from the dataset (because it dominates every topic), while only using tokenized and lemmatized versions of words - the bare minimum, if you will.

We need to be careful with any interpretation of the topics discovered because the algorithm seems to load meaning with objectivity. It just makes a risky bet (the model itself calls for qualitative and quantitative evaluation, Chang et al. 2009). The very nature of what a "topic" actually implies in a particular context is up for discussion. Nonetheless, the approach allows us to work with large "bags" of text and approach the data with further qualitative questions. With its two directions - representing a corpus and predicting future text - it invites us to explore the performance of Greenwashing tweets. We also used topic modelling to conduct comparisons across our two groups, which helped us better understand platform-specific notions of Greenwashing.

Drawing on the topic modelling results, our Twitter group looked more closely at keywords. Time series visualisations for particular terms were created, while wordtree analysis got us closer to keywords and their contexts. We used the Python package "wordtree" by Will Chrichton, in contrast to the WordTree plugin used by Group2. Lower/upper case denote that difference between the code used.

1.5. Findings

1.5.1. Exploring the data set

Greenwashing is a popular term on Twitter, yet it is only popular for roughly half a decade (see above, Fig. 1). Looking at the users active in the discussion as represented in profile pictures (Fig. 3), a common pattern emerges throughout the past years: the share between individual user accounts (using headshots) and larger organisational accounts (using logos) stays constant.

Fig. 3: Twitter profile pictures accumulated and grouped via logo and people

The term Greenwashing isn't used frequently every day, what stands out are "peaks" on particular dates (Fig. 4). Many tweets on these specific dates indicate the prevalence of certain events, such as a protest of Greenpeace France on #WorldEnergyEfficiencyDay.
Fig. 4: "Greenwashing" on Twitter time series with qualitative annotations. The graph is created through the Python plotly package. It is an interactive graph that allows us to identify concrete hours of Twitter activity "peaks". The interactive version is available as a download here.

The relationship between peaks and certain events appeared to be confirmed by a Gephi network analysis of authors and hashtags. While the five most used hashtags, #climateaction, #esg, #climatecrisis, #climatechange and #sustainability have been attached to different events and topics and have been used by various actors, some bigger hashtags have been used in tweets that refer to certain events. #grandpuits and #total were attached to tweets on a union strike around the French Total Grandpuits refinery in January or #eutaxonomy was used to criticise the taxonomy for sustainable activities. At the same time, #RWE or #Shell were attached to several different greenwashing accusations, most of them also event-driven.

The hypothesis that tweet activity on greenwashing is driven by specific events was then tested by zooming into three days, marking a peak in the overall frequency: 1) 13. January 2021: Most tweets most probably referred to the release of a report accusing Blackrock of greenwashing, 2) 25 January 2021, which we connected to a French union strike around the refinery Grandpuits, and 3) 5 March 2021, a peak presumably created by tweets referring to the Greenpeace France protest on #WorldEnergyEfficiencyDay.

1.5.2. What makes a peak? Towards Twitter event profiles

RQ#1, What makes a peak?, was investigated by exploring the data-set in different ways. In a first step, the relationship of authors and mentions was analysed with the help of a network visualisation created with Gephi.

Such a network visualisation shows how authors refer to each other and can hint at topical clusters and sub-clusters or conversations taking place between certain actors. With the help of Gephi, we further analysed the role of certain actors in a network, e.g. by calculating their betweenness centrality (=their property to connect different clusters in a network with each other). When re-connecting the network analysis to the original tweets, we've noticed that they don't account for the whole data set as many tweets didn't include any mentions. Hence, we didn't keep on following that path.

Drawing on these observations from the network analysis, we created three profiles for the alleged events and their spikes. This helped us represent the differences identified through different angles. Relating the discussion to the larger dataset offers additional comparative leverage. We propose three different angles to represent profiles.

First, looking at basic tweet type statistics helps get a sense of the type of communications dominating an event (Fig. 5). As indicated above, we can thus clearly identify the particularity of the activity on the 13th of January, 2021.

Fig. 5: Tweet types throughout the events and compared with the entire dataset.

Second, the language distribution helps us get a sense of cultural specificities dominating a particular event. Greenwashing is a profoundly European theme, with networks centring around French, English, Spanish and German clusters and some theme and institution-based exceptions (notable around the EU). But looking closer at event languages shows how certain discussions are situated in very particular ways (Fig. 6). The retweet mentioned above in Thai stands out, as does the French strike.

Fig. 6: Top languages compared by events

Third, a quick glimpse at the share of verified/unverified accounts indicates the amount of larger institutions or well-known people of public interest being active in the discussions (Fig 7).

Fig. 7: The share of verified accounts active during the different events

1.5.3. Topics brought forward through the Greenwashing hashtag on Twitter

We classified the results from the most reliable topic model (k=5 topics) as follows: collective action (with words such as climate change, action, campaign), accountability (investment, fund, just), energy transition (energy, carbon, renewable), protest (destruction, accused, Greta Thunberg), and brands (fashion, palmoil, marketing). This representation of the main discussion points makes sense and resonates with what a regular news recipient from Europe might expect. Yet we propose one more qualitative twist. The topic modelling gave us complex lists with some dazzling overlaps depending on the number of topics chosen (from 3 to 100). For short texts, it's pretty common that not all topics produced by the machine learning algorithm are coherent, and the five topics highlighted above also live through cross-references. We suggest that the language relevant for our research is either protest or truth driven. Topic modelling shows us that the discussion is aimed at systemic problems of capitalism and operates either in the language of capitalism (e.g., via accountability or energy transition) or against it (e.g., through protest mobilisation or brand-specific ad-busting). The machine learning approach has trouble operating with such different modes, even though it hints to follow certain words and metaphors. Here it is important to remember the analytical dependencies of topic modelling (see 1.4.2). What topics mean - and what the very notion of "topic" implies - requires interpretation. In this sense, we argue that the accounts do not talk about some prefixed themes. Rather, in the Greenwashing Twitter-sphere they talk through topics. Protest language is a mediator, while truth-specific language appears through all topics and attaches claims.

Drawing on the topics and keywords, we wanted to understand how topics unfolded through time. Fig. 8 looks at tweets from the summer of 2020 until 2021 to compare key themes representing protest or truth. We took the terms from the relatable terms throughout the topics. This representation emphasises that protest terms are more event-driven than others, while truth-based language is a constant feature of the Greenwashing tweet discourse ("fact" being skewed by one event). This resonates with the topic modelling. We then looked closer at the sentences used around "truth" - as displayed in wordtrees (Fig. 9). We found out that users are likely to attach Greenwashing in a particular pattern, mobilising singularised claims. In other words, it is the truth that is called for. It is here where actors introduce layers of redundancy to discussions. We will discuss this result in 1.7, but first, we will look at the evaluation of inauthentic activities.

Fig 8: Keywords in the Twitter dataset from 07.2020 until 07.2021

Fig. 9: Word trees displaying words connected to "truth"

We want to explore whether the meaning and inauthenticity of the term "greenwashing" may differ in different cultures. By examining the "paper straws case" in China (data is collected by Python on Microblog, the most popular social media platform in China, in the same time period of Twitter data), we found both similarities and differences. We also find some words that are closely related to "truth" in this case.

The similarities mainly rely on political and commercial levels. The Chinese ban on free plastic is the background of companies' usage of paper straws, but Microblog users care little about the fact and claim that big companies use paper straws for saving money. Transnational corporations like Coca-Cola, KFC and McDonald are the main actors to be attacked, as well as some milk tea suppliers. It's similar internationally that big companies are accused of "greenwashing", but the discussion sometimes is not limited to "greenwashing", but refers to more commercial scandals. It's worth noting that many green-related terminologies are applied like the discussion that the potassium permanganate consumption of paper straw exceeds the standard which indicates that the netizen focuses on the technology itself and not "The Crowd" in stereotype and can not be easily cheated by "greenwashing". The words that are closely related to "truth" are "cheat" and "doubt" which also shows that consumers are vigilant at greenwashing (Fig. 10).

In this case, it can be observed that China is still in the initial stage of greenwashing, most discussions are about consumers' personal experience and commercial accusations. However, Chinese consumers are vigilant about the inauthenticity of green activities and have little trust in the labels of green branding.

Fig. 10: Semantic network of "paper straws case" in China

1.5.4. Inauthentic activities

Let's go back to the events and critically re-examine the emerging themes from a different angle. As a reminder: 13 January presents a much higher proportion of retweets than the 25 January and 5 March samples. While the overall data set is dominated by English tweets, most tweets on 13 January are published in Thai. When zooming into the tweet texts, it becomes clear that the data sample at 85% consists of retweets of only one tweet. This tweet was published by a user with 571 followers but later was retweeted by larger accounts. The tweet was retweeted 5548 times on 13 January in a total of 6549 tweets containing the term 'greenwashing' on that day. This number could be explained by larger accounts participating in retweet activity. It refers to the cosmetics company Lush cooperating with anti-trans organisations and, in this context, accusing it of greenwashing as well. In a thread, the account links a business insider article (accessed: 22 July 2021). Greenwashing isn't the first accusation in this tweet. The user rather speculates that apart from cooperating with anti-trans organisations, they also heard of greenwashing allegations against the company but don't know if these rumours are true. Two very different accusations are combined here.

To examine these larger accounts, we calculated the follower to following ratio, which according to Bastos and Mercea is one of various standard metrics to detect bot activity (Bastos/Mercea 2019, 43). This is a list of the accounts with the highest number of followers compared to the number of accounts they are following, that retweeted the tweet on 13 January.

A top ten list was taken as an entry point to walk through these accounts manually. Some of them predominantly retweet without showing any original tweet activity. One offers to sell retweets, the offer is placed in the geo-tag: "rate card retweet please DM". This could be seen as a creative strategy to avoid being removed by Twitter, whose policies explicitly prohibit trading engagement metrics such as retweets ( https://help.Twitter.com/en/rules-and-policies/platform-manipulation, accessed 22 July 2021). This excursion into accounts promoting the tweet that made the peak on 13 January opens up further questions that couldn't be investigated within this project, like: Did one of the suspicious accounts trigger the chain of retweets? Are their followers real? The extremely high tweet activity also opens up questions that address automation or semi-automation.

Regarding greenwashing, this tweet and its (not totally inauthentic) resonance illustrate that greenwashing is connected to other types of accusations against large companies, e.g., collaboration with certain organisations. It's articulated in an overall demand for more ethical behaviour and not solely expressed by users active in climate change issues.

All three selected events consist of a larger proportion of retweets than the overall sample. However, the amount of retweets from 25 January and 5 March isn't generated by only one tweet. On 25 January, the most retweeted tweet was one by a French communist politician, calling the conflict behind the union strike at the Total Grandpuits refinery a social and environmental issue and publishing a video with a striker's statement. On 5th March, in turn, the most retweeted tweet was posted by French tv moderator Mac Lesggy referring to the protest action of Greenpeace against Air France, accusing Greenpeace itself of greenwashing for selling fossil gas as 'green gas'. For these two days, the events connected to tweet activity indeed account for a large proportion of tweets. All three most retweeted tweets clearly name the targeted organisations. Regarding the 13th of January and the 5th of March, the tweets contain an element of disclosure: Lush is presented as a dubious company and Greenpeace is converted into a target.

1.6. Discussion

Exploring the dataset by using different analytical tools lead to divergent insights: While the network analysis on author-mention relationships confirms the attribution of events ascribed in the hypothesis and to reveal how and by whom accusations were attached to targets, producing sample profiles led to reconsidering these conclusions. 'Greenwashing', this analysis of proportions presents, is mobilised by events like strikes and protest activities, but also re-activated when companies that were accused of greenwashing in the past are criticized for very different activities (e.g., in the most retweeted tweet from 13 January). Greenwashing, then, is articulated in a manner of disclosure. This element of disclosing unethical activities can also be observed in the most retweeted tweet from 5 March 2021, in which Greenpeace is alleged of selling fossil fuels.

Twitter analysis needs critical method reflection. For example, our analyses indicate that network visualisations can develop "a virtual life of their own" (Power 2004, 772): When solely turning to the relationship of authors and mentions, certain actors appear as crucial for a data sample. Namely, actors that present a particularly high betweenness centrality, meaning that they have the property to connect different user clusters, appear especially influential. Actors that include many mentions in their tweets appear especially active. However, both types of actors do not account for many tweets, and their content is rarely included in discussions that users participate in. Certain actors seemed to play a central role in Twitter activity around greenwashing at first sight, which appeared to confirm the preliminary attribution of events to activity peaks. However, the underlying tweets did not account for most tweets, as most of them didn't comprise any mentions and thus appear more central than they actually are. Power describes this phenomenon as typical for aggregated metrics: They detach from their origin and introduce new standards (Power 2004), in this case: the amount of mentions or a level of betweenness centrality. While these metrics can deliver exciting insights, they have to be re-connected to the tweets they are part of to analyse them correctly.

In digital, highly mediated discourse spaces, context is difficult to maintain; with Marres (2020), one could argue that situational integrity is at stake. However, a central context of the greenwashing discussion is evident. In the discourse, truth is up for grabs. Both the literature on greenwashing PR and the literature on inauthentic activities in social media highlight that truth is a highly debated topic among the actors involved. Our analyses build on this and show that truth and accountability are called for by critical voices via greenwashing accusations. However, we find it problematic that this claiming is often pursued with a narrow understanding of truth and that actors cut off discourses with their criticism. With Latour (2004), this tendency can be problematised as "truth politics": actors claim direct access to some sort of stable truth that is always there, hiding below the surface (Harman 2014). In fact, on the one hand, it is open to debate to what extent certain accused actors are justifiably accused - active companies are sometimes easily attacked, which is also known in research as "brownwashing" (Kim and Lyon 2015). On the other hand, a narrow notion of truth prevents greenwashing claims from mobilising a diverse crowd and actors for cultural or systemic critique. Empirically, the paradox of truth-politics could only be resolved in the sense that actors formulate fierce resistance through greenwashing accusations. In a large-scale strike addressing the fossil fuel infrastructure, as seen in the example of the French refinery, this can prove fruitful. At times, the style of some greenwashing allegations appeared to us to be irritating. Still, for affected actors, it may be one of the few remaining ways to respond to the "brutalism" (Truscello 2020) of the fossil fuel infrastructure and its harmful consequences, thus desperately calling for an alternative, liveable future.

1.7. Conclusion of Group 1

Greenwashing is used on Twitter to negotiate truth through labelling processes. This becomes apparent in the most retweeted tweet from 5 March 2021: The accusation is pushed over to Greenpeace, who had accused Air France of greenwashing before. The tweet is not about Greenpeace selling fossil gas but about making their claims appear hypocritical and therefore invalid. Something similar can be observed in the most retweeted tweet of 13 January 2021. It's not about Lush donating to anti-trans organisations. It rather enumerates labels that have the property to defame the company. Greenwashing, these examples emphasise, has established itself as a claim on Twitter, where it functions as a vehicle for cultural and systemic criticism. Yet, a critical examination of dynamics is required. The topic modelling could be developed further. Perhaps a "word embedding" approach produces even better results (e.g., via word2vec, lda2vec). We also suggest doing research on green(washing)-specific ratios to understand the differences in how certain users or themes are addressed (e.g., comparing the ratio of mentions of accounts with a certain tag).

We recognise a tension between accusation and appropriation, i.e. conservative actors sometimes take greenwashing charges to the absurd and turn them on their heads. This is in the tradition of climate change deniers and environmental degradation relativists who may use greenwashing PR as a strategy to preserve business as usual (Malm and Zetkin Collective 2021). But the appropriation does not often succeed; greenwashing accusations have a fairly stable power across Twitter to hold companies accountable. The dominant topics represent this tendency. So what? Greenwashing accusations have their legitimate place on Twitter - as they overcome the dubious focus on individualised consumer responsibility that is so common in the public sphere. Yet, as the discussion above has highlighted, one key problem is that the discourse easily lapses into superficial truth-politics and prefabricated patterns of critique. Only in certain cultural contexts can this become a far-reaching resistance movement.

Group 2: Cross-platform URL dynamics

2.1. Group Members

Maria Lompe, Nicolaus Copernicus University in Toruń

Suay Melisa Oezkula, Università degli Studi di Trento

Estrid Sørensen, Ruhr-Universität Bochum

Mariangela Vespa, Institut für Zukunfts Energi und Stoffstromsysteme (IZES gGmbH)

Tianshi Zhao, University of Pennsylvania

2.2. Introduction

This sub-project explored online dynamics around the keyword "greenwashing" with a focus on discourses surrounding URLs. The positioning of greenwashing as an (to a degree) inauthentic practice suggests that online coverage of greenwashing would be ambiguous, i.e. tied to conversations around inauthenticity, "fakeness", or fact-checking, yet not part of the dynamic and sometimes toxic spaces that fake news discussions have been affiliated with. These expectations were grounded in the different ideological orientations and targets of accusation that greenwashing claims pertain to. Greenwashing is typically understood as an accusation of exaggeration or inauthenticity in environment-conscious behaviour, above all in carbon footprints. These claims typically originate from pro-environmental groups and are targeted at commercial organisations, for whom "green behaviour" has become a significant part of corporate social responsibility and the subsequent market value and consumer relationships. In comparison, fake news debates more commonly relate to a vast array of issues that split groupings on opposite sides of the political spectrum (e.g. anti-vaccination campaigns, flat-earther groups, election campaigns) and often target either a specific political party, their following, or media conglomerates publishing the news. As such, debates on greenwashing claims should, in theory, more uniformly be targeted at pro-environmental groups that seek to monitor, watch, and hold accountable organisations overstating their environmental impacts.

In response to this issue, this sub-project explored in how far the association of the term "greenwashing" with pro-environmental movements is indeed reflected in URL sharing on social platforms and with the contents of these URLs. The project conducted this study through an examination of (1) issue language in URL contents, and (2) a mapping of the wider URL networks. In doing so, this project combines what has been described as a combination of 'computational heuristics and close reading' (Rogers, 2019: 43) towards understanding wider discourses of an ambiguous phenomenon.

The project included a cross-platform element by comparing URL contents and URL networks that were highly engaged with on the social media platforms Facebook, Reddit and Twitter. This choice created a unique set of methodological challenges. It sought not only to understand a single URL network and its issue language. It also conducted a comparison of several lists of URls that social media users engaged with across platforms, which can only be done by comparing across each platform's specific technological mechanisms, tagging markers, and affordances. In other words, the study was based on a methodological approach, which differed both from single-platform studies and from the more conventional cross-platform analysis. This innovative approach was deliberately chosen towards generating an alternative pathway for exploring both platform differences and the different repercussions URL sharing on different platforms have.

2.3. Research Questions

Following research questions were posed:

RQ#1: To what extent are URL sources and contents (i.e. materials/evidence) on "greenwashing" (successfully) targeted towards progressive movement actors?

RQ#2: Alternatively, do the issue networks and discourses surrounding greenwashing indicate the existence of marginalised discourses, including potential anti-programmes? (as per the distinction of programme and anti-programme in Rogers, 2019)

RQ#3: What differences exist based on the platforms where these URLs have shown high engagement? (i.e. does the platform space matter in terms of discourse)

RQ#4: How does issue language and discourse differ between social media commentary & URL contents? (comparison with Facebook and Twitter posts)

2.4. Methodology

2.4.1. Initial dataset: building a link list

The initial dataset for this enquiry consisted of a URL link list created through Buzzsumo ( https://buzzsumo.com/). The tool was queried on URLs relating to "greenwashing" that have been most engaged with on Facebook, Twitter, and Reddit over the past 12 months (July 2020 to July 2021). Toward creating a consistent dataset that could be interpreted by all group members, only English texts were selected. Although the tool also provides data for Pinterest, these data were not judged relevant to the query. The resulting URL list consisted of 2227 links. It was extracted from Buzzsumo and then split into 4 datasets based on different sorting:

Ranked by overall top engagement across platforms

Ranked by top engagement on Facebook

Ranked by top engagement on Twitter

Ranked by top engagement on Reddit

These links were read & mined in full and as capped lists of top 100 (for text-mining) and top 20 (for CrowdTangle). The choice to cap the lists emerged from disparities in engagement. For example, Reddit showed considerably less engagement with URLs on greenwashing than Facebook. As a result, not all of the 2227 links were engaged with (and therefore relevant) for the platform. The lists were therefore capped to exclude very low engagements.

2.4.2. Python topic modelling & WordTree

For a broad overview of issue language, python topic modelling was used (assistance from Stefan Laser from sub-group 1) for identifying related word clusters. These initial clusters provided a basis for a basic comparison with sub-group 1 (c.f 3.5.3).

For a more detailed understanding of issue language, the URL contents from the Buzzsumo link lists were scraped from the link collection through a custom program (created by Stijn Peeters). The contents were then exported from the csv file into Word documents for cleaning. The cleaning was a reiterative process, for which a common stop list was used and further exclusions were made after initial WordTree visualisations. A particular challenge lay in the exclusion of undesirable contents scraped alongside the article body, e.g. disclaimers, user guidance features, and additional columns. Therefore, the final cleaning run for each file was manual. The final datasets were entered in WordTree ( https://www.jasondavies.com/wordtree/) by Martin Wattenberg and Fernanda Viéga) for visualisation.

2.4.3. URL social media networks

IssueCrawler:

An IssueCrawler ( https://www.issuecrawler.net/) snowball analysis was used to study the extended network of the web pages that are likely to be reached when following the URLs that are mobilised on the three social media platforms when engaging with the notion "greenwashing". The data used as a basis for these analyses were the same top 100 URLs engaged with on Twitter, Reddit and Facebook and extracted with Buzzsumo, as explained above. The chosen crawl degree of separation was set to 1. The aim was to capture the wider URL networks as a way of determining where and how greenwashing discourses spread, and also to gain a sense of the wider source networks surrounding the debate. While a co-link analysis was preferred towards understanding specificity in links, technical issues in data collection limited the choice to snowball analyses.

CrowdTangle:

Capped lists of 20 URLs each were additionally entered into CrowdTangle ( https://www.crowdtangle.com/ ), separated by Boolean operator OR. Although larger URL lists (e.g. 100 top links) would have been preferred, word count restrictions on CrowdTangle limited the enquiry to 20 links. The aim of this exercise was to create a database in csv format that listed the Facebook groups and Reddit sub-groups sharing these links. While it was also possible to generate such a database for Twitter, CrowdTangle limited the extraction of data to 7 days (rather than 1 year), and the data contained individual rather than group or public accounts. Due to the thus appearing lack of comparability data for Twitter was not considered here.

The resulting csv files included the names of Facebook pages and Reddit sub-groups, the type of group and sub-group (e.g. NGO, political, news), the number of reactions to the link, the shared link, and the content of the post in which the link was published. Towards creating a visualisationbetween links and social media groups, additionally a metafile including the name of the Facebook or Reddit group, group type, and the shortened link was created. The aim of this part of the study was to explore what kind of actors shared links circulating on the web related to the term greenwashing, whether these are indeed the anticipated progressive pro-environmental actors, and what these URL uses suggest about greenwashing discourses surrounding highly engaged materials. Of particular interest was the discovery of any potential anti-programmes stemming from significant disparities in actor types and issue language in those spaces. Towards that purpose, these files were used for both relational visualisations (alluvial diagrams) and the post contents were also visualised with WordTree for an analysis of discursive features. A particular challenge in the cleaning of the WordTree files were common words in Facebook posts as well as the frequent embedding of the URLs that subsequently informed the results. This was mitigated through further manual cleaning processes.

2.4.4. Data outputs, refinement, & visualisation

The final dataset (see Fig. 11) consisted of 2227 URLs scraped from Buzzsumo (in the full list, not separated by platform). These were split into 3 URL lists by platform (Twitter, Facebook, and Reddit), which produced 8000 A4 pages of textual URL content data (through scraping for URL contents with a custom program) and 128 A4 pages of Facebook comments (through CrowdTangle scraping).

Data was refined based on engagement by platform, i.e. separate URL lists (Buzzsumo), as well as engagement by platform with these links on Facebook and Reddit ( CrowdTangle). The individual lists were analysed through a reiterative process using WordTree, IssueCrawler snowball network analysis, and CrowdTangle relational alluvials

Fig. 11: research protocols

Data were visualised through word trees and clusters (= discursive features) and network graphs. As part of a comparative element that situated the URL work with the Twitter work of sub-group 1, additionally, a time series and topic modelling comparison were created.

IssueCrawler visualisation The visualisations are of interest to find out what web pages - and organisations or actors - profit from people engaging with the term "greenwashing" in the way they do on social media. When people use the notion of "greenwashing" on a social media platform and also post a link to a webpage, then it is likely that people will click on that link and read the web page. Maybe they will also click on links on that webpage. If they do so, they are likely to end up on one of the pages that are shown as nodes in the visualisations below. The visualisations show the interlinkages of these pages. The nodes show are two clicks away from the social media posts on "greenwashing". We suspect that they are not always the organisations and actors that the social media users expected to mobilise - or even wanted to contribute to mobilising - when they included a URL in their post. Thanks to Valentina Pallacci and Fabiola Papini for improving the visual quality of the IssueCrawler networks. CrowdTangle visualisation: To show the connections between URLs links and Facebook groups and Reddit sub-groups, an Alluvial diagram was used. The visualisations were divided into eight diagrams. For each list of links that gained the highest total engagement, highest engagement on Facebook, Reddit, and Twitter, a visualisation was created showing the Facebook groups that shared the links and the Reddit sub-groups that shared the links. To enhance the clarity of the visualisation, the groups have been sorted by their type: purple - environmental pages, green - news, yellow - NGOs, red - politics, company and organisation, blue - education and brown - science. The thickness of the lines corresponds to how much engagement (reaction, liking, commenting, publishing the post) the link shared in the post gained.

2.5. Findings

2.5.1 URL issue language ( WordTree) Full dataset issue language A general finding of the word trees was that greenwashing mentions frequently related to definitions and explanations of the term rather than wider discussions of the issues, claims, or accusations. These explanations were typically framed as "greenwashing is..." or "greenwashing example" (see fig. 12 & 13). Together with wording that suggested a general (rather than expert) target public, the word trees suggested that URLs are often used for contextualised understandings of the term rather than evidence of the greenwashing claims and accusations.

Fig. 12: greenwashing word tree

Fig. 13: greenwashing definition word tree
Issue language by platform

Few differences emerged when the URL lists by platform were mined. While the top URLs had shown few differences across the platform sorting, the full lists had shown more discrepancies. Even so, URL contents did not show significant differences in issue language. As such, Reddit, Facebook, and Twitter were fairly homogenous in the URLs they shared.

Fig. 14: word tree comparison across platforms

Issue language in Facebook comments

In comparison to the mined URL contents, the mined Facebook commentary on the URLs ( CrowdTangle scraping) showed more differences. The URL lists by highly engaged platforms (Facebook, Twitter, and Reddit) showed that Facebook comments varied more strongly depending on which URLs they used. As output, it is possible to underline that the Facebook commentary highly engaged with on Twitter and Reddit are more focused on business, such as investments and marketing; while the Facebook commentary highly engaged with on Facebook are focused on environmental issues, such as emissions and risks.

Fig. 15: word tree comparison of Facebook comments across platforms

The visualisation of the URL networks emerging out of the three platforms' engagement with "greenwashing" all mobilise finance and investment web pages, which appear in the three visualisations as the large clusters on the right-hand side. The interesting differences lie in the smaller clusters that are mobilized. Only on the URLs following off of Reddit we encounter a small cluster on leftwing news shown on the left in the visualisation.

Fig. 16: Snowball network of URLs one distance from the URLs engage with on Reddit

The visualisation of the URLs linked to from the URLs engaged with on Facebook show a small cluster of Republican news backfiring "greenwashing" accusations at the left, at the top of the visualisation.

Fig. 17: Snowball network of URLs one distance from the URLs engage with on Facebook

Looking at the URLs that are mobilised through engagement with "greenwashing" on Twitter we encounter a large cluster of Chinese news and social media platforms. This is interesting in comparison to the pages following from Reddit engagement with "greenwashing," which beyond US pages only mobilise Korean web pages, while the Facebook engaged URLs primarily link to US pages.

Fig. 18: Snowball network of URLs one distance from the URLs engaging with "greenwashing" on Twitter

The extended network of URLs following from engagement with "greenwashing" on Twitter shows furthermore that Financial times and indeed Twitter are the bridges that connect the large financial and investment cluster with the Chinese pages.

Together, the three visualisations give interesting insights into the internet repercussions that social media engagement have beyond their own platforms.

2.5.3 Issue networks & discourse analysis (CrowdTangle)

The issue language in word trees showed high similarity in the links associated with "greenwashing" across the platforms where these have seen the highest engagement. In comparison, more significant differences were found in the way they were mobilised by social media groups depending on platform. URLs links that gained the highest engagement were shared on Facebook primarily in mainstream newsgroups (Fig. 19) and in grassroots and NGOs groups. Sub-groups on Reddit were also mostly mainstream news, but the second-highest gaining topic was political groups (Fig. 20). These included sub-groups using counter-language (e.g. Skeptic, Cryptocurrency News & Discussion) and more politicised discourses (e.g. Late State Capitalism, British Labor Party). Reddit also showed a higher amount of environmental sub-groups (e.g. Green, Environment, Live with a Lower Impact), even though Facebook had overall a considerably higher amount of link-publishing posts and groups (which showed little environmental content).

(The images below can be accessed with a higher resolution through GitHub.)

Fig. 19: Top URLs for total engagement - Facebook groups

Fig. 20: Top URLs for total engagement - Reddit Sub-groups

A similar trend was identified in a comparison of Facebook groups and Reddit sub-groups for links with the highest engagement for particular platforms. Facebook groups largely consisted of NGOs, with a few environmental groups (above all Greenpeace, which mostly overlaps with official NGO pages). The exceptions were sub-groups on Reddit for links, which gained the highest engagement on Twitter. These were dominated by science groups (The Dismal Science, and groups dedicated to Cryptocurrencies). These sub-groups primarily published scientific articles rather than (like the other groups) news articles.

Fig. 21: Top URLs for Facebook - Facebook groups

Fig. 22: Top URLs for Facebook - Reddit sub-groups

Fig. 23: Top URLs for Reddit - Facebook groups

Fig. 24: Top URLs for Reddit - Reddit Sub-groups

Fig. 25: Top URLs for Twitter - Facebook groups

Fig. 26: Top URLs for Twitter - Reddit Sub-groups

2.5.4 Cross-group comparison

Similar trends were found in the two exercises on matching URL findings to the Twitter enquiries from group 1. A comparative topic modelling was done both on the tweet corpus and on all URL contents across 2227 URLs. Common word clusters were identified, cleaned, and then labelled (= headings). While some words appeared across both clusters, the issue language differed significantly between the two datasets. Similarities were found in clusters around investment, brands, and commerce, as well as mentions of fossil fuels, all clusters that were common to greenwashing accusations as they relate to the accusation targets and the specific evidence the greenwashed claims address. Even so, Twitter issue language was stylistically different in that it showed a high degree of emotive responses, for example through clusters that captured a sense of responsibility, awareness, accountability, and call for action. These did not appear (for perhaps obvious reasons) in the URL contents.

In a second exercise, the group attempted to further compare the issue language by matching some of the keywords that appeared in the Twitter data and were relevant to the project's overall research interest. These terms included protest, campaign, misleading, truth, misinformation, accountability, fake, pinkwashing, and fact. The results were equally mixed (see Fig. 27). More neutral terms such as "campaign" and "fact" appeared extensively, whereas more accusatory and emotive or ideological language did not. The latter includes words like "fake" and "misinformation". These keywords were run across all URL lists (those shared on Facebook, Twitter, and Reddit) and they did not really feature as they were not part of the issue language in the URLs.

Fig. 27: Keyword matching of URL contents to Twitter data

2.6. Discussion & conclusion Group 2

Overall the results showed that the top URLs shared across platforms were, in fact, quite similar. In comparison, the full (rather than the top) lists showed differences in that (a) some platforms were more diverse in the contents they share (e.g. Facebook compared to Reddit), and (b) the spaces where these were shared showed significant differences (in source selection as well as narratives). As such, platform choice was significant in whether progressive pro-environmental users were successfully targeted. Issue language (in posts) and source dependency varied depending on which platform the URLs were highly engaged with, despite (1) highly similar (or even the same) ideological orientation on greenwashing, and (2) very similar URL selection & content. Thus, while the shared materials and critical stance were fairly similar across the datasets, issue language and framing changes depended on the chosen platform. These findings suggest that URL materials (incl. the facts and news shared in these) do not necessarily dictate or influence the frames in social media posts. Instead, variations could potentially be attributed to the distinct platform vernaculars, affordances, or user associations of these platforms that determine issue framing in social media commentary.

In terms of the research questions posed at the beginning of the project, this means that URL sources and contents (i.e. materials/evidence) on "greenwashing" are by and large (successfully) targeted towards progressive movement actors. Marginalised discourses (such that could be related to potential anti-programmes) were not found. Even so, significant differences existed based on the platforms where these URLs have shown high engagement. For example, while in the CrowdTangle analysis Facebook was primarily used to provide information and attempts at social mobilisation, Reddit was largely used to exchange political views, which also results in a broader discussion involving actors with different views (incl.) links from liberal media being captured and published with different commentary on conservative or skeptical groups. Platform relevance was a trend across datasets. The network graphs resulting from the IssueCrawler analysis suggested that platform choice matters considerably for orientations of the wider URL networks. Differences based on platform-related URL lists also appeared in the WordTree text-mining of the social media commentary (though not the URL networks). Thus, while URL contents showed little differences based on where these URLs were engaged with, the wider URL networks, the precise spaces where they were shared, and the surrounding social media commentary differed. This suggests that platform vernaculars carry significant weight in issue framing.

Potential limitations of this study relate to:

(a) methodological challenges that relate to a focus on URLs rather than social media commentary, e.g. issues in tool use for URLs as queries, word count restrictions in queries, and issues in cleaning;

(b) a focus on "greenwashing" as the query without the inclusion of anti-programmes (although these were also part of the enquiry). Future research would benefit from running a more holistic cross-platform analysis that further explores the vocabulary of anti-programs towards and examination of how groups sceptical of the term greenwashing use and mobilise it on social media.

Future research would need to determine how far platform identity, association, and culture influences the framing of news and evidence, above all where phenomena are (like greenwashing) tied to natural-scientific issues where evidence is of high relevance to decision-making processes.

General Conclusion

Greenwashing is now an established term in the digital public sphere. The technique of greenwashing accusation is powerful, our research emphasises. Some features of the discourse indicate particular kinds of exclusion, as indicated in the discussion of the Twitter data. In this last section, we briefly conclude with a more general methodological note.

The individual approach of the research groups (e.g. user focus vs evidence focus; single-platform vs cross-platform) significantly influences how Greenwashing is understood, enacted, and mobilised. This is because cross-platform analyses illuminate different cultures of Greenwashing. The platforms and their users format how an issue space is conceptualised, approached and lived, while the platform access we get through the tools used restricts how we can make sense of and enact the specific platforms and their cultures. Our research thus underlines a central pillar of digital method research, namely that digital practices are to be analysed in their situatedness and that with our research we also draw on our own particular perspectives and (consciously or unconsciously) weaken or overlook others.

At the beginning of our project, we had the idea - inspired by Susan Leigh Start's critical research - to follow "smaller actors" and their contributions in order to read the discourses along the grain, so to speak. We could only partially address this. More research of this kind is needed, especially on a specific topic like "greenwashing". We do not intend to suggest that greenwashing accusations are saturated with inauthentic frames with the presented research. Rather, we suggest, the subject points to the need for actors to negotiate and make fruitful uncertainties that are always contextual.

References

Adi, Ana. 2018. '#Sustainability on Twitter: Loose Ties and Green-Washing CSR'. In Corporate Responsibility and Digital Communities: An International Perspective towards Sustainability, edited by Georgiana Grigore, Alin Stancu, and David McQueen, 99-122. Cham: Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-63480-7_6.

Bastos, Marco T., Mercea, Dan. 2019: 'The Brexit Botnet and User-Generated Hyperpartisan News'. Social Science and Computer Review 37(1), 38-54.

Gatti, Lucia, Peter Seele, and Lars Rademacher. 2019. 'Grey Zone in - Greenwash out. A Review of Greenwashing Research and Implications for the Voluntary-Mandatory Transition of CSR'. International Journal of Corporate Social Responsibility 4 (1): 6. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40991-019-0044-9.

Harman, Graham. 2014. Bruno Latour: Reassembling the Political. London: Pluto Press.

Freitas Netto, Sebastião Vieira de, Marcos Felipe Falcão Sobral, Ana Regina Bezerra Ribeiro, and Gleibson Robert da Luz Soares. 2020. 'Concepts and Forms of Greenwashing: A Systematic Review'. Environmental Sciences Europe 32 (1): 19. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12302-020-0300-3.

Klein, Naomi. 2015. This Changes Everything: Capitalism Vs. The Climate. Simon and Schuster.

Latour, Bruno. 2004. 'Why Has Critique Run out of Steam? From Matters of Fact to Matters of Concern'. Critical Inquiry 30 (2): 225-48.

Kim, Eun-Hee, and Thomas P. Lyon. 2015. 'Greenwash vs. Brownwash: Exaggeration and Undue Modesty in Corporate Sustainability Disclosure'. Organization Science 26 (3): 705-23. https://doi.org/10.1287/orsc.2014.0949.

Lyon, Thomas P., and A. Wren Montgomery. 2013. 'Tweetjacked: The Impact of Social Media on Corporate Greenwash'. Journal of Business Ethics 118 (4): 747-57. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-013-1958-x.

Malm, Andreas, and Zetkin Collective. 2021. White Skin, Black Fuel: On the Danger of Fossil Fascism. London ; New York: Verso.

Marres, Noortje. 2020. 'For a Situational Analytics: An Interpretative Methodology for the Study of Situations in Computational Settings'. Big Data & Society 7 (2). https://doi.org/10.1177/2053951720949571.

Power, Michael. 2004. 'Counting, Control and Calculation: Reflections on Measuring and Management'. Human Relations 57 (6): 765-83.

Rogers, Richard. 2019. Doing Digital Methods. Sage.

Rogers, Richard. 2018. 'Digital Traces in Context| Otherwise Engaged: Social Media from Vanity Metrics to Critical Analytics'. International Journal of Communication 12 (0): 23.

Truscello, Michael. 2020. Infrastructural Brutalism: Art and the Necropolitics of Infrastructure. Cambridge: The MIT Press.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
DmiSummerSchoolGreenwashing < Dmi < Foswiki

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Additional data and figures with a higher resolution can be accessed through GitHub. Stefan Laser (facilitator), Xinyue Chen, Maria Lompe, Suay Melisa Ozkula, Estrid Sørensen, Lena Teigeler, Mariangela Vespa, Tianshi Zhao. Designers: Matteo Bettini, Valentina Pallacci, Fabiola Papini, Marìa Paula Vargas Triana. Greenwashing is now an established term in the digital public sphere.

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66% of Gen Alpha want to buy from companies that are trying to do good in the world (source: Wunderman Thompson)

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First Client - Wasted Seltzer, bad past of high carbon emissions

Gaia helped the company change to a more renewable route with an honest campaign

They saw a Gen Alpha girl view their product in her bedroom as she praises Wasted Seltzers for its unashamed honesty and its upcoming zero-waste collaboration with the supermarket: ‘Two wrongs can sometimes make a right,’ she says.

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Gaia was launched after discovering shared interests in corporate greenwashing, a service DAO (decentralised autonomous organisation) and betterment consultancy that helps businesses learn from their mistakes of the past.

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We believe carbon markets are one of the greatest tools we have to achieve net zero.

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It allows people to block themselves from viewing unsustainable fashion brands and instead be pointed towards companies that can back up their environmental claims.

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Anti-greenwashing project launches for UK food and drink sector

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Anti-greenwashing project launches for UK food and drink sector

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As pressure builds to reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions across the agri-food chain, and consumer demand grows for environmentally friendly products, 'greenwashing' threatens to undermine shoppers' trust.

In an effort to tackle greenwashing practices in food and drink, the UK's Environment Agency plans to establish standardised metrics to measure the environment performance of the sector.

A collaborative effort ​

Greenwashing occurs when an organisation attempts to persuade the public its products, aims and policies are more environmentally friendly than they are.

A recent investigation ​ undertaken by the International Enforcement Network (ICPEN) revealed that four in 10 websites appear to be using greenwashing tactics.

These include vague claims and unclear language, including terms such as 'eco' or 'sustainable' without adequate supporting evidence. Brands may also 'greenwash' by hiding or omitting information, such as a product's pollution levels, in order to appear more eco-friendly.

The Environment Agency's initiative is designed to help manufacturers more effectively communicate their environmental performance to the public, reducing the opportunity for greenwashing.

Other players collaborating on the project include the Institute for Manufacturing at the University of Cambridge, the Scottish Environment Protection Agency, Northern Ireland Environment Agency, Waste and Resources Action Programme and the British Standards Institute.

The project has received a £195,000 grant from the Regulators' Pioneer Fund launched by The Department for Business, Energy, and Industrial Strategy (BEIS).

Incentivising change​

Specifically, the project aims to simplify the measuring and reporting of key environmental performance areas, including GHG reduction and resource efficiency.

The Environment Agency hopes the initiative will incentivise companies towards greener manufacturing processes and business operations.

"One of the big challenges for food businesses trying to mitigate climate change is how to communicate their environmental performance that goes beyond legal compliance effectively and efficiently," ​said project lead Becca Tremain, Environment Agency.

"Different food businesses have developed and adopted various environmental metrics and it can be time-consuming for food businesses to collect data from different supplier systems. ​

"This project seeks to address this challenge by standardising environmental metrics for food businesses that go beyond legal compliance. ​

"It aims to provide an effective and efficient solution to enable the automation of environmental performance data transfer across different food businesses." ​

The partnership will be working alongside the Institute of Environmental Management and Assessment (IMEA) and trade associations to understand and ensure the feasibility of the metrics, as well as private sector representatives Sainsbury's, Nestlé, Cranwick, 2 Sisters and Vitacress.

Industry responds​

The Food and Drink Federation (FDF), which represents food and beverage manufacturers in the UK, said on a 'very broad level', it supports the Environment Agency's concept of developing such metrics.

Without such a scheme in place, consumers can struggle to compare the differing environmental claims of different food and drink products, suggested Emma Piercy, Head of Climate Change & Energy Policy at FDF.

"The trouble is that a lot of other people are thinking exactly the same thing, and are now developing their own metrics and methodologies," ​she told FoodNavigator. "That is a challenge on a number of levels." ​

Not only do the methodologies vary, there is not one 'aligned industry approach'. This means that neither manufacturers nor consumers are able to compare like-for-like, we were told.

The other problem, Piercy continued, is data. While a variety of different data sources exist, there is no agreed industry approach as to which data sources should be used.

"These two things combined - the multitude of methodologies and the multitude of data sources - means there remains a significant problem for consumers." ​

Therefore, while the industry association supports the 'overall intention' of the project, in practice it sees more value in working towards an industry aligned approach.

A challenge for manufacturers?​

From the manufacturers' perspective, FDF also foresees challenges in the implementation of such a project.

Due to the 'multiple methodologies' for sustainability indices currently available, manufactures are being asked for similar pieces of information - that require slightly different methodologies - which Piercy said can contribute to administrative pressures.

"So there is a problem with the implementation from a manufacturer's perspective," ​we were told.

Further, there are cost implementations, the climate and energy expert continued.

"If you think about [the cost associated with] any labelling, you would have to change your labelling and your packaging depending on who you sell it to and what information they want [to see]. Those are the two main challenges." ​

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Anti-greenwashing project launches for UK food and drink sector

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
As pressure builds to reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions across the agri-food chain, and consumer demand grows for environmentally friendly products, 'greenwashing' threatens to undermine shoppers' trust. In an effort to tackle greenwashing practices in food and drink, the UK's Environment Agency plans to establish standardised metrics to measure the environment performance of the sector.

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Greenwashing could soon be curbed, with new panels such as the UK’s Green Technical Advisory Group being employed to define the requirements for what is deemed sustainable. 

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Sylvera use satellite imagery and machine learning to monitor and analyse forest offsetting schemes, helping companies avoid accusations of greenwashing.

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In Australia, pledges from businesses to reach net zero emissions have driven a 20% rise in demand for carbon units, with prices surging. But the report, from analysts RepuTex, still finds that 90% of all local offsets bought go to overseas projects, highlighting hypocrisies in offset initiatives

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Consumer Protection Enforcement Network (ICPEN) found that 40% of green claims could be misleading consumers.

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Although more businesses than ever are reporting on sustainability practices – 80% worldwide, according to Raconteur – the average company spends just 0.13% of its revenue on corporate social responsibility (CSR), showing a clear misalignment between what is said and what is done (source: Vox). This is where the phenomenon of greenwashing emerges, as businesses fail to make substantial investment in their CSR departments.

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ShADe is an anti-greenwashing web plugin by Shadey Club that helps consumers identify brands’ green credentials while shopping online and browsing the internet

# data[].attributes.headline
Anti-greenwashing project launches for UK food and drink sector

# data[].attributes.subject
Anti-greenwashing project launches for UK food and drink sector

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
As pressure builds to reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions across the agri-food chain, and consumer demand grows for environmentally friendly products, 'greenwashing' threatens to undermine shoppers' trust.

In an effort to tackle greenwashing practices in food and drink, the UK's Environment Agency plans to establish standardised metrics to measure the environment performance of the sector.

A collaborative effort ​

Greenwashing occurs when an organisation attempts to persuade the public its products, aims and policies are more environmentally friendly than they are.

A recent investigation ​ undertaken by the International Enforcement Network (ICPEN) revealed that four in 10 websites appear to be using greenwashing tactics.

These include vague claims and unclear language, including terms such as 'eco' or 'sustainable' without adequate supporting evidence. Brands may also 'greenwash' by hiding or omitting information, such as a product's pollution levels, in order to appear more eco-friendly.

The Environment Agency's initiative is designed to help manufacturers more effectively communicate their environmental performance to the public, reducing the opportunity for greenwashing.

Other players collaborating on the project include the Institute for Manufacturing at the University of Cambridge, the Scottish Environment Protection Agency, Northern Ireland Environment Agency, Waste and Resources Action Programme and the British Standards Institute.

The project has received a £195,000 grant from the Regulators' Pioneer Fund launched by The Department for Business, Energy, and Industrial Strategy (BEIS).

Incentivising change​

Specifically, the project aims to simplify the measuring and reporting of key environmental performance areas, including GHG reduction and resource efficiency.

The Environment Agency hopes the initiative will incentivise companies towards greener manufacturing processes and business operations.

"One of the big challenges for food businesses trying to mitigate climate change is how to communicate their environmental performance that goes beyond legal compliance effectively and efficiently," ​said project lead Becca Tremain, Environment Agency.

"Different food businesses have developed and adopted various environmental metrics and it can be time-consuming for food businesses to collect data from different supplier systems. ​

"This project seeks to address this challenge by standardising environmental metrics for food businesses that go beyond legal compliance. ​

"It aims to provide an effective and efficient solution to enable the automation of environmental performance data transfer across different food businesses." ​

The partnership will be working alongside the Institute of Environmental Management and Assessment (IMEA) and trade associations to understand and ensure the feasibility of the metrics, as well as private sector representatives Sainsbury's, Nestlé, Cranwick, 2 Sisters and Vitacress.

Industry responds​

The Food and Drink Federation (FDF), which represents food and beverage manufacturers in the UK, said on a 'very broad level', it supports the Environment Agency's concept of developing such metrics.

Without such a scheme in place, consumers can struggle to compare the differing environmental claims of different food and drink products, suggested Emma Piercy, Head of Climate Change & Energy Policy at FDF.

"The trouble is that a lot of other people are thinking exactly the same thing, and are now developing their own metrics and methodologies," ​she told FoodNavigator. "That is a challenge on a number of levels." ​

Not only do the methodologies vary, there is not one 'aligned industry approach'. This means that neither manufacturers nor consumers are able to compare like-for-like, we were told.

The other problem, Piercy continued, is data. While a variety of different data sources exist, there is no agreed industry approach as to which data sources should be used.

"These two things combined - the multitude of methodologies and the multitude of data sources - means there remains a significant problem for consumers." ​

Therefore, while the industry association supports the 'overall intention' of the project, in practice it sees more value in working towards an industry aligned approach.

A challenge for manufacturers?​

From the manufacturers' perspective, FDF also foresees challenges in the implementation of such a project.

Due to the 'multiple methodologies' for sustainability indices currently available, manufactures are being asked for similar pieces of information - that require slightly different methodologies - which Piercy said can contribute to administrative pressures.

"So there is a problem with the implementation from a manufacturer's perspective," ​we were told.

Further, there are cost implementations, the climate and energy expert continued.

"If you think about [the cost associated with] any labelling, you would have to change your labelling and your packaging depending on who you sell it to and what information they want [to see]. Those are the two main challenges." ​

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Anti-greenwashing project launches for UK food and drink sector

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
As pressure builds to reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions across the agri-food chain, and consumer demand grows for environmentally friendly products, 'greenwashing' threatens to undermine shoppers' trust. In an effort to tackle greenwashing practices in food and drink, the UK's Environment Agency plans to establish standardised metrics to measure the environment performance of the sector.

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Brands are admitting their flaws and eschewing the "sustainable" label in a bid to build consumer trust and forgiveness. It's radical transparency pushed further. Here's how to get it right.

Last week, Amsterdam-based eyewear brand Ace & Tate told customers: " Look, we f*cked up. Our bad moves" in a boldly worded blog post addressing mistakes made around sustainability and its efforts to change.

The post outlined five of the misguided decisions Ace & Tate took while trying to become more sustainable as part of its recent B Corp certification: in one case, it overlooked its social impact and neglected to implement a code of conduct, which would have protected workers in its supply chain. In another, it switched to a polyphenylene ether (PPE) and bamboo fibre glasses case to appeal to contemporary consumers' assumption that bamboo was a sustainable material, but reduced the recyclability of the case. "One of the key learnings for our team is to focus on making good changes rather than changes that just look good," the post reads.

Radical transparency has been the mainstay of brands including Reformation and Everlane who are open about the limitations and challenges of being sustainable, sometimes with mixed results. Others such as Ganni co-founder Nicolaj Reffstrup say being "honest not perfect" has been part of the brand's DNA since its foundation. The tagline "We're not sustainable" is used to communicate its sustainability efforts and shortcomings in the last three years. "It's reflective of a broader shift towards radical transparency," says Lucy Shea, CEO of sustainability consultancy Futerra. Sixty-six per cent of millennials and 79 per cent of Gen Z think brands are not honest enough about environmental sustainability, she says, citing Futerra's 2019 study with the Consumer Goods Forum. This rises to 69 and 84 per cent respectively when related to how factory workers are treated.

Now brands are taking it further. Brands including Ace & Tate and New York label Noah - whose 2018 post "we are not a sustainable company" inspired Ace & Tate's - are pushing the envelope on what transparency looks like. What that means is that so-called "radical" transparency is no longer so radical - it's an expectation for more discerning Gen Z customers, says Shaunie Brett, founder of Sussed Consulting, which works with Selfridges and Nike on "no-bullshit" sustainability strategies. Other brands that aren't used to this type of open communication and honesty will find it challenging, Brett adds, but the pay-off is building consumer trust and creating a lower-pressure environment. That will allow brands to experiment and make inevitable mistakes, in theory accelerating progress towards sustainable practices.

"There will be a transition period when previously unsustainable brands have one foot in that world and one foot in sustainability," says Brett. "We need flaws, authenticity and transparency to address the inconsistencies that brings."

Experts point out that transparency is not a sustainability strategy but rather a supporting marketing strategy, and that commitment is key. "You can't be transparent today and go about business as usual tomorrow," Ace & Tate founder and CEO Mark de Lange says. "Responses have been positive and negative, but I sleep better at night knowing we communicate openly instead of trying to present a very shiny image. I'll consider it a success if it encourages other businesses to change."

What transparency looks like now

Fitness entrepreneur Grace Beverley, who founded sustainable activewear brand Tala, offers prices competitive with fast fashion. She found that being transparent about the trade-offs and struggles to build her brand have led to customer loyalty and awareness about sustainability. "When we started, it quickly became apparent why everything was about £100 for a pair of sustainably-produced leggings. But we found that if we made leggings with 92 per cent upcycled content rather than 100 per cent, we could offer leggings for £42 whilst still maintaining ethical production practices, which made sustainability more accessible to however many more people," she says. "You need transparency to explain those trade-offs because sustainability is nuanced and constantly evolving."

While small trade-offs like this are easy to communicate, brands are often less keen to be transparent about murkier, and often more consequential, areas of sustainability, says writer and consultant Aja Barber.

This cherry-picking is especially true of financial decisions, funding and volume, says Barber. "Brands are willing to shout about having LED lightbulbs in their head office, but I want to know how much brands are producing every year and how much is wasted," she says. "I want to know about the rolls of fabrics sitting in a warehouse that you won't use but also won't donate to fashion students, and how many investors you have to pay off. These things matter."

Barber points to a personal message Loud Bodies founder Patricia Luiza Blaj posted on the Romanian slow fashion brand's Instagram account in July, explaining a recent predicament that saw her refund a resale platform and rescind stock once she found out it was owned by a fast fashion group that didn't pay garment workers during the pandemic. "I was so burnt out and desperate about our future that I didn't do my due diligence from the beginning," Blaj says in an interview. "For a brand with an average monthly income of $12-15,000, giving back an $8,000 advance and being stuck with $6,000 of fabric was terrifying. Being honest and open to our community is definitely second nature by now - I see our community as our shareholders and I give them their weekly report."

While anxious about possible backlash, Blaj ultimately posted about the incident to prove that Loud Bodies embodies its values no matter the cost, and to help sell the already-made stock that wasn't its most popular styles or in its full size range. "In the end, it felt very liberating," she says.

Creative ethics consultancy Cogdis co-founder Faith Robinson links the trend for transparency to the humanisation of brands often done to build authenticity and deeper connections with customers. But it can also raise ethical challenges, especially when brands presenting as flawed and fallible might be held to lower standards. "A brand isn't one person, it has a huge impact on thousands of lives."

Doing transparency right

Keeping claims humble; showing that the brand is always a work-in-progress; being transparent about mistakes and limitations; and taking risks with communication styles, is advised by Futerra's Shea. It also needs to be done in tandem with genuine work on sustainability. "You need a good sustainability strategy with proof of action before you put out communications about it."

This evidence is what will determine whether the efforts are perceived as greenwashing or genuine transparency, adds Brett, and it paves an opportunity for brands to take ownership of the narrative around their mistakes. "Everything comes out in the wash, so you need your receipts ready and to be accountable for it. Better to do it yourself and communicate how you want to, otherwise it will come out in a nasty way that is out of your control."

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Brutal honesty: the new look sustainable marketing

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Brands are admitting their flaws and eschewing the "sustainable" label in a bid to build consumer trust and forgiveness. It's radical transparency pushed further. Here's how to get it right.

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Recently we've been trying to raise awareness about how unsustainable the clothing industry really is, and to share our efforts at reducing our own impact. People have so much power to change the way clothes are made. As part of this, we asked journalist Elizabeth L. Cline to explain why it's difficult to know which claims to trust when shopping for apparel. Cline is the author of the exposé Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion, and The Conscious Closet, a guide to "looking good while doing good," and she accepted our assignment so long as she could write it as an independent journalist. Her reporting made us nervous, but that's the point. We need external experts to keep us honest. Not only did she do that, she reinforced why "eco-friendly" and "sustainable" are on our internal list of dirty, banned buzzwords. - the Editors

If your Instagram feed looks anything like mine, it's a cascade of advertisements for "earth-friendly" tops, clothes that "fight climate change," "sustainable" pajamas, "circular" shoes and pants that claim to have saved a million gallons of water. These ads paint a picture of the apparel industry's transformation from one of the world's most polluting to miraculously being good for the Earth. More likely, it's all just greenwashing -the term for companies engaging in false or misleading environmental claims or overselling underwhelming eco-initiatives. And it's one of the biggest problems facing fashion.

"Greenwashing is a critical problem, and it's a central roadblock to progress," says Maxine Bédat, founder of The New Standard Institute, a nonprofit that aims to bust greenwashing and accelerate science-based sustainability standards in fashion. Greenwashing might not sound dangerous, but in fact overselling the environmental benefits of fashion doesn't just confuse consumers-there's evidence it can sow mistrust and might even slow down environmental progress. A recent survey of British consumers showed that only a fifth of shoppers believe the sustainability claims made by brands. And other research indicates that even consumers that have a sophisticated level of environmental awareness can be duped by falsified green claims. "With greenwashing we can't really define what the problem is, and then rally to a solution," says Bédat.

Greenwashing itself is nothing new. The phrase was coined back in 1986 by environmentalist Jay Westerveld, who, while on a trip to Fiji, was struck by the hypocrisy of a huge resort touting its environmental credentials. In recent years it has become such a rampant problem in apparel that it has inspired a subgenre of magazine articles and Instagram posts offering advice to consumers for sniffing it out. Major TV shows have taken on the cause, too. Last year, Hasan Minhaj's The Patriot Act called out H&M and Zara for using vague terms like "ecologically grown cotton" and "sustainably-produced polyurethane" to market their clothing. Most recently, the style editor at the Financial Times reached a breaking point with the onslaught of green marketing, declaring " there's no such thing " [paywall] as sustainable fashion.

There are a number of forces driving the current rash of greenwashing, experts say. In some ways it's the negative byproduct of a very positive change: the explosive interest in sustainability. "I think [greenwashing] is a lag between these brands knowing what's expected of them and knowing what they need to do about it," says Ashley Gill, director of standards at Textile Exchange, a nonprofit that sets guidelines around sustainable fiber claims and pushes the industry toward more responsible material sourcing. Gill says that while there are brands that intentionally mislead consumers, she thinks the problem is mostly being caused by brands realizing they have to change, and not quite knowing how to do it. "They are scrambling to try to figure out what their strategy is going to be," she says.

Another contributor to greenwashing, according to Bédat, is the preponderance of bad data circulated about the fashion industry's environmental impact. "The industry is taking the interest in sustainability and marketing new collections as 'green,' but these claims have very little if any bearing in fact," she says. The oft-cited notion that fashion is the second-most polluting industry on Earth turned out to be a myth. The industry's carbon footprint has been measured at anywhere from 4 percent of all global emissions, all the way up to 10 percent. To help bust false claims, The New Standard Institute collates sustainability information on its website from reliable sources for use by brands and journalists, so they don't just "rubber-stamp greenwashing," says Bédat.

And yet there are much deeper, more structural reasons why so many of the fashion industry's claims about sustainability ring hollow. It has to do with the way the industry is structured, with brands and manufacturers separated by vast distances and a complex supply chain. The vast majority of the environmental impact of the industry happens during manufacturing and the production of raw materials. "The impact is happening at the beginning of the supply chain," says Gill, adding that astonishingly few brands can trace their complete supply chain. "Almost no one can map to the raw material level across their entire portfolio," which means most brands are making claims about a part of their business they know very little about.

There's also the interconnected problems of low price and huge scale in the apparel industry. The sector is mostly run by big businesses oriented toward making high volumes of cheap products. Miko Underwood, who worked as a design director for large brands before launching her own sustainable line Oak & Acorn last year, says that this pressure to produce cheaply can prevent companies from making the wholesale changes necessary to be greener. "When companies have to go up against big brands like H&M and Zara that have been able to monopolize the market, it makes it really challenging," says Underwood. Instead, many large brands know that consumers are looking for green products, so there's a temptation to make environmentally friendly collections or a handful of products and market those as a "green" transformation. "[Sustainability] becomes a catchphrase, a gimmick for them," says Underwood of some big players. Likewise, Gill compares the difficulty of refocusing big brands on sustainability like turning a "giant ship around."

It can be easier to just start from scratch, which is why we've seen an explosion of sustainable startups like Nisolo, OrganicBasics and Girlfriend Collective and independent designers like Oak & Acorn who've built sustainability into their DNA. But it's worth mentioning that small companies are capable of greenwashing, too. All of those ads I mentioned showing up in my Instagram feed are from small and medium-sized brands. Advertising attorney Randal Shaheen concurs that some start-ups are the worst offenders of greenwashing. "Your heart might be in the right place, but your advertising claims aren't," he says, as newer companies are less likely to understand federal guidelines that regulate green marketing claims and are also less likely to consult legal counsel before launching. "We'll hear from them when they've gotten into trouble," he says.

Given the myriad forces driving fashion's greenwashing outbreak, can anything be done to cure it? Regulation is one obvious place to start. In Norway, for example, the government cracked down on H&M's Conscious collection for underexplaining how its clothes are actually better for the environment. In the US, it's the Federal Trade Commission's duty to stop "deceptive and fraudulent" marketing, and the FTC's Green Guides offer an exhaustive set of rules for how companies should approach making environmental claims in their advertising.

Every now and then, the FTC will enforce these rules. In 2013 and 2015, the FTC filed civil penalties against a number of major apparel retailers-including Amazon, Macy's, and Sears-for mislabeling clothes as "bamboo" and describing them as environmentally friendly. Bamboo fabric is a type of viscose rayon or lyocell, made by chemically pulverizing plants and trees. Thus, the FTC fined the brands for advertising a product as green, when in fact making it "can involve the use of harsh chemicals," says Shaheen.

But there might be a way to further step up enforcement, says Hilary F. Jochmans, a government affairs consultant and the founder of PoliticallyInFashion, a fashion policy website. It'll require consumers getting more politically involved, she says. "There needs to be a dialogue on these issues, and it starts with the community speaking up." Consumers in the US can file a complaint of deceptive marketing at FTC.gov or by calling 877-FTC-HELP. And Jochmans says what's ultimately needed is a major update to the Green Guides (the last update was in 2012) to reflect current science and to clearly define terms the industry is using, like "sustainable." The House Committee on Energy and Commerce is in the best position to update the Green Guides, says Jochmans.

Of course, not all or even most brands are out to dupe consumers. There is an incredible drive to make the apparel industry less resource-hungry and polluting-and a growing consensus of what that means. More brands are moving toward sourcing eco-friendly materials, whether they're recycled, organic, Regenerative Organic or a host of other possibilities. Oak & Acorn uses a combination of upcycled materials, hemp, and Refibra, a recycled fiber, for example. Patagonia recently switched the insulation in its Nano Puff ® jacket to 100 percent recycled insulation, reducing the product's carbon emissions by 510,000 pounds.

Sustainable brands are also earning consumer trust by using third-party certifications, such as bluesign ® for the manufacturing phase or Textile Exchange's Global Recycled Standard to verify the use of recycled material. prAna, a sustainable athleisure and basics brand, is one company heavily relying on these third-party certifications.

Other brands are measuring their own products' impacts, from the carbon emitted to the water used, and publishing that data for consumers to see. In just one recent example, Allbirds published the carbon footprint of its footwear. And Textile Exchange is pushing companies to map their supply chain as a very first step. "Part of making sustainability true and authentic and honest is having as much transparency as possible," says Gill. She mentions Patagonia, Eileen Fisher and Fjällräven as leaders in transparency.

And when it comes to making green claims, the advice to companies is fairly straightforward: They should always be substantiated. "When you say, 'Our clothing is sustainable,' also say 'Here are the five or so principles of sustainability that we adhere to and that we live by,'" says Shaheen.

These are all significant steps in the right direction, but underneath all of the debate about greenwashing in fashion is a much bigger conversation. We're not really talking about greenwashing; we're talking about the future of life on this planet. Fashion's overall environmental impact is going up year after year (with the notable exception of 2020 because of the historic decline in apparel purchases during the pandemic). The 2019 update of the Pulse of the Fashion Industry, an annual report released by Boston Consulting Group and the Global Fashion Agenda, found that progress toward sustainability in fashion appears to be slowing. And since the term "greenwashing" was first coined, climate change and unsustainable resource consumption have reached critical levels. What was once a nuisance-overselling environmental gains-could now be a threat to our long-term survival.

According to Roland Geyer, a UC Santa Barbara environmental scientist, there is no such thing as a truly "green" product, as products often change consumer behavior and the marketplace in unexpected ways. Geyer's 2016 study on green products, coauthored with business and sustainability expert Trevor Zink, found that recycled content, for example, often increases the production of virgin materials, and that some green products can increase overall consumption, either because it makes products cheaper or because the consumer sees them as a license to consume more. What's more, "a company can outgrow its environmental gains," says Geyer. Patagonia for example has seen dramatic growth in recent years, and there's paradoxical evidence that the company is growing because of its reputation as a sustainable company.

That's why the ultimate solution to greenwashing will be for companies to work toward tracing their supply chain and disclosing their full environmental footprint. The New Standard Institute is urging big brands to do just that, namely to disclose their carbon impact and water and energy usage across their entire business, from farm to factory to retail stores. Bédat says a handful of inaugural brands are preparing to make the commitment. And in the meantime, brands, whether big or small, can always take the high road, and remind their customers that sustainable fashion might not actually exist in any meaningful sense. Instead, they can communicate what they're doing to reduce their environmental footprint. "These companies can help by being clear in their communication that there are no sustainable brands or sustainable products," says Bédat.

Incredibly, there are brands that take this radically honest approach. Streetwear brand Noah declares that there is no such thing as a sustainable clothing company. "We have never claimed to be sustainable or even close to it," says founder Brendon Babenzien, although the company does use sustainable materials and responsible sourcing practices. There are some indications that more brands are publicly owning up to where they fall short on sustainability-rather than overselling their moves to be more green.

Given that no brand has actually figured out how to zero out the impact of making clothes, brands should tone their messaging down a bit. Or a lot. Fashion has a hefty impact on the planet. There's an argument to be made that it should never be described as green.

Elizabeth L. Cline

Elizabeth is a New York-based journalist and the author of two books, Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion and The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good.

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Recently we've been trying to raise awareness about how unsustainable the clothing industry really is, and to share our efforts at reducing our own impact. People have so much power to change the way clothes are made. As part of this, we asked journalist Elizabeth L.

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Ganni - Sustainability -> Responsibility

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Ganni - Sustainability -> Responsibility

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Sustainability is being overused

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Think of Examples of Companies that are doing really well, what can we do to combat

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Think of Examples of Companies that are doing really well, what can we do to combat

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Through its adverts, the natural gas company tried to convince people that its solutions don’t contribute to global warming. They claimed that their investments could cut their emissions in half.

The company claims that its algae biofuels could reduce emissions, but it has no real net-zero target for the company.

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Some of the world's biggest fossil fuel companies have used advertising to "greenwash" their ongoing contribution to the climate crisis, according to files published by the environmental lawyers ClientEarth. They describe the practice as "a great deception".

The files compare the adverts produced by ExxonMobil, Aramco, Chevron, Shell, Equinor and others with the companies' operations and products, overall climate impact and progress toward climate-safe business models.

ClientEarth is calling on policymakers to ban all fossil fuel company ads unless they come with tobacco-style health warnings about the risks of global heating to people and the planet.

Its lawyers lodged a complaint in 2019 alleging that BP's advertising campaigns had misled the public by focusing on the company's low carbon energy products, when more than 96% of its annual spend was on oil and gas. BP withdrew the ads before the complaint was assessed. ClientEarth said it was now putting other fossil fuel companies on notice over greenwashing adverts.

"We're currently witnessing a great deception, where the companies most responsible for catastrophically heating the planet are spending millions on advertising campaigns about how their business plans are focused on sustainability," said Johnny White, one of ClientEarth's lawyers.

"We need to reduce reliance on fossil fuels, but instead of leading a low-carbon transition these companies are putting out advertising which distracts the public and launders their image. Our research shows these adverts are misrepresenting the true nature of companies' businesses, of their contribution to climate change, and of their transition plans."

ClientEarth's analysis includes claims that:

ExxonMobil advertising suggested its experimental algae biofuels could one day reduce transport emissions, while it has no company-wide net zero target and its 2025 emission reduction targets do not include the vast majority of emissions resulting from its products.

Saudi Arabia's Aramco said it conducted business "in a way that addresses the climate challenge" yet it is the world's largest corporate greenhouse gas emitter and plans to continue exploring for more oil and gas, despite having reserves greater than those of Exxon, Chevron, Shell, BP and Total combined.

Chevron said it was " part of the solution" to climate change but does not have a net zero commitment or a strategy aligned with the Paris climate agreement. Its plans for carbon capture and storage cover less than 1% of its 2019 carbon emissions.

Shell said it was investing in "lower-carbon biofuels and hydrogen, electric vehicle charging, solar and wind power", but in 2020 it earmarked between $2bn and $3bn a year for low-carbon businesses, compared to $17bn on fossil fuels operations.

Norway's Equinor has talked of growing renewable capacity tenfold by 2026, but renewables are only planned to be 4% of its energy by that date.

ClientEarth said warnings on oil company adverts should state that fossil fuel products are the main cause of global heating and that companies must divulge how much they are spending on fossil fuels compared with their low-carbon businesses.

There are numerous campaigns in Europe and North America to ban fossil fuel advertising. The French parliament proposed a law in February to ban ads for fossil fuel products, and a Dutch law professor published a paper arguing that fossil fuel advertising is inherently harmful and misleading and should be banned.

A Shell spokesperson said: "Our target is to become a net-zero emissions energy business by 2050, in step with society's progress towards the goal of the Paris agreement on climate change. Our short, medium and long term intensity and absolute targets are fully consistent with the more ambitious 1.5C goal of the Paris agreement. And our targets cover the full range of our own emissions and our customers emissions."

A Chevron spokesman rejected ClientEarth's analysis. He said: "We engage in honest conversations about the energy transition. We believe the future of energy is lower carbon and are working to help the world achieve that goal. We are taking action to reduce the carbon intensity of our operations and assets, increase the use of renewables and offsets and invest in low-carbon technologies."

ExxonMobil, Aramco and Equinor did not respond to a request for comment.

The Guardian announced in January 2020 that it would no longer accept advertising from oil and gas companies.

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'A great deception': oil giants taken to task over 'greenwash' ads

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Some of the world's biggest fossil fuel companies have used advertising to "greenwash" their ongoing contribution to the climate crisis, according to files published by the environmental lawyers ClientEarth. They describe the practice as "a great deception".

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In 2015, Volkswagen (VW) was caught for cheating consumers with its supposedly “clean diesel” engines. The carmaker’s engineers had fitted 11 million cars with software that duped emission tests into believing that the car was eco-friendly. In reality, the cars were releasing up to 40 times the permitted amount of nitrogen oxide pollutants.

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Volkswagen's CEO Herbert Diess announced that he wants to recruit an " aggressive climate activist" to work for the company, with direct access to the board in order to challenge its green policies. While this seems honourable, VW is starting from a bad position. The company belongs to an industry that is responsible for 72% of transport emissions in the EU - with transport itself being 30% of all CO₂ emissions.

In 2015, VW admitted to cheating emissions testing regimes. Its diesel engines were fitted with devices to make them look less polluting than they really were during testing by US and EU regulatory authorities. " Dieselgate" had huge knock-on effects, with buyers shunning diesel engine vehicles from all manufacturers in the past five years, and diesel sales down 27% in the UK year-on-year.

As if this wasn't bad enough, evidence surfaced suggesting that as late as 2014, VW was testing its vehicle exhaust emissions on humans and monkeys in the US, when it had been known the exhausts contained particles that could cause cancer. In a post-Greta Thunberg world, VW is realising that it needs to clean up its act. In fact, it sounds like it wants its very own Thunberg.

The upstarts leading the market

The problem for VW is that in the past decade, the car industry has moved on - helped in no small part by a Californian company whose slogan is to accelerate the world's transition to sustainable energy. That company is Tesla, and in 2019 it delivered nearly 400,000 fully electric cars that do not produce harmful tailpipe emissions and generally, over their life cycle, produce half the CO₂ of diesel cars.

The VW group delivered 80,000 plug-in cars over the same period, with a little over half being fully electric - one-tenth of Tesla's production. This might look like progress for the German multinational, which is also the world's largest automotive manufacturer. But when you consider VW made nearly 11 million vehicles in 2019, 40,000 is a drop in the ocean.

It's not like electric vehicles are new to the German company. VW delivered its first widely available full electric model, the e-Up!, in 2013, which was the same year Tesla delivered its first Model S cars. The difference for consumers was that the e-Up! had a range of 93 miles, and the Model S 265 miles. Tesla's 2020 Model S is now approaching 400 miles range on one charge. For many drivers choosing an electric car, the VW product has failed to keep up.

So is VW trying to show that sustainable vehicles are now its primary objective? Or is it simply a PR stunt? Large corporations are only too aware that "edgy" branding strategies appeal to customers, and sustainability is very much in the public consciousness. Nike's advertising campaign with Colin Kaepernick was just the latest, and of course, Apple perfected the use of "radical" imagery to sell stuff decades ago.

Certainly, VW has a long way to go - and if you take a look at the website, electric cars compose a large part of the company's brand identity. But the problem for VW remains - an upstart electric vehicle company can sell ten times the number of cars it can, at a significantly higher average selling price.

International motor shows in the past five years have been dominated by the move to electrification. Most manufacturers now agree that, at least for passenger cars, the future of their products is in electric vehicles. While many have flirted with hybrid and hydrogen power, lithium-ion batteries and electric motors have now proved that they can power not only the fastest, but also the cleanest vehicles, with the least disruption to existing infrastructure in developed areas. After all, electricity is already available in virtually all homes and businesses and where people park cars.

An enormous multinational such as VW does of course face unique challenges. Huge supply chains that have been carefully constructed, combined with numerous products that take years to develop - it all means that change is harder for VW than disruptive start-ups such as Tesla or Rivian.

What will change VW is what changes all businesses - demand from the market. The former CEO of General Motors, Bob Lutz, wrote the book Car Guys vs. Bean Counters when his company was the largest in the world. If electric vehicles is where the profitable business is, then that's where all VW's efforts will go.

Read more: Nike, Colin Kaepernick and the pitfalls of 'woke' corporate branding

Just as people were convinced to buy diesel cars due to favourable tax regimes and lower running costs - even though the cars were more expensive and complex to manufacture - VW made huge amounts of them, because the market demanded it. While it's often difficult for large companies such as VW to change, market forces will eventually lead them to do so anyway. The same goes for Shell renaming itself "She'll" on International Women's Day. Socially conscious branding is often a convenient vehicle for disguising cold, market logic.

Having your own boardroom Greta Thunberg simply makes for a better story.

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Volkswagen's climate activist won't be able to change the green credentials of the company any time soon

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Volkswagen's CEO Herbert Diess announced that he wants to recruit an " aggressive climate activist" to work for the company, with direct access to the board in order to challenge its green policies. While this seems honourable, VW is starting from a bad position.

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H&M Fast Fashion - "Conscious Collection"

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H&M Fast Fashion - "Conscious Collection"

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A June 2021 report by Changing Markets Foundation found that nearly 60% of the claims made by H&M were “unsubstantiated or misleading” to consumers.

Of the 50 brands the foundation reviewed, H&M came out on top as the worst offender with 96% false claims

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Greenwashing is when people or businesses say their products are good for the environment when they are not.

Greenwashing has become more common. Some scholars say people are less likely to trust advertising that talks about the environment than they used to be.