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Using the influence of music subcultures on fashion to encourage generation Z to be environmentally conscious consumers.

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https://www.highsnobiety.com/tag/patagonia/
Founder: Yvon Chouinard
Established: 1973
Headquarters: Ventura, California, USA
CEO: Jenna Johnson
REVENUE: $800 Million (2020)
SUSTAINABLE: B-label - meaning that it amongst the more sustainable brands within the sector of sports & outdoor clothing.
SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE: Corporate Responsibility (CR) movement
MANUFACTURED: Factories in sixteen countries that includes the United States

Patagonia is an American clothing company that markets and sells outdoor clothing. The first store opened in 1973 in Ventura, selling bespoke mountain climbing gear before expanding its production line to include apparel created for other outdoor sports such as surfing. Patagonia introduced the ‘Worn Wear’ concept in 2017 allowing customers to return particular Patagonia items in good condition in exchange for new merchandise credit.

Patagonia has additionally been involved in a number of environmental and political activist campaigns, including 1% of its total sales to environmental groups and 100% of sales from Black Friday to environmental organizations (that has totaled $10 million).

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Founded by Yvon Chouinard in 1973, Patagonia is an American clothing company that markets and sells outdoor clothing. The first store opened in 1973 in Ventura, selling bespoke mountain climbing gear before expanding its production line to include apparel created for other outdoor sports such as surfing.

In addition to sportswear, Patagonia today also offers outdoor products such as camping food, sleeping bags and backpacks today. In an effort to be a sustainable company, Patagonia introduced the 'Worn Wear' concept in 2017 allowing customers to return particular Patagonia items in good condition in exchange for new merchandise credit.

Patagonia has additionally been involved in a number of environmental and political activist campaigns, including 1% of its total sales to environmental groups and 100% of sales from Black Friday to environmental organizations (that has totaled $10 million).

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Patagonia: All About the Outdoor Brand | Highsnobiety | Highsnobiety

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Patagonia has given us some of the best outdoor staples for decades. Today the brand continues to innovate sustainably. Learn more about the American brand here

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Demonstrate systematic understanding of information-gathering techniques, which use a wide range of sources, providing visual, contextual and business research

as appropriate.

1.1  Demonstrate the use of a wide range of relevant, topical and appropriate research methods and sources to provide visual and contextual marketing insight which underpins your chosen campaign

1.2  Consistently combine or synthesise data and information to demonstrate the need and solutions based approach of your chosen campaig

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Analyse research materials leading to the generation of some new concepts with
existing key themes which inform and underpin project development

2.1 Explore, compare and contrast research findings, data sources and trends to create an impactful campaign which is innovative and commercial

2.2 Demonstrate, through consumer profiles and relevant data, how the campaign will engage and influence your selected customer base

# data[].attributes.body
Demonstrate a confident working knowledge, production skills, selection, application and systematic understanding of the creative potential of a range of processes, materials and methods

3.1  Create your chosen reports to an appropriately professional industry standard using a wide variety of processes, methods and materials.

3.2  Show awareness of new trends and explore these using information to decide on relevance to brand and campaign

3.3 Formulate a strategy which meets customer needs and reflects relevant

# data[].attributes.body
Develop a range of possibilities leading to generate innovative solutions

4.1  Ensure the generation of a range of new ideas and strategic solutions, exploring their commercial merit through creative, contextual and subject specialism.

4.2  Evaluate and critically reflect on proposed solutions and provide an options analysis, making recommendations for those most likely to achieve the greatest impact

4.3Encourage peer group to question and challenge ideas and to accept critique from others in a professional        manner demonstrating resilience

# data[].attributes.body
Presentation Communicate projects and business solutions effectively, creatively and professionally (visual, oral or written form) to a wide range of situations appropriate to the audience and the purpose of the work.

5.1  Ensure final portfolio is produced to an industry standard and includes the required components to make a compelling business case.

5.2 Present your solution to a wide range of stakeholders with confidence and select the most relevant key information to communicate within the allocated time frame. Use appropriate content and style to engage others, anticipating issues and questions and preparing for their response.

# data[].attributes.body
Demonstrate highly effective transferable and employability skills, assessing own abilities to work independently, set goals, respond to change and communicate effectively.

6.1  Demonstrate effective approach to project management independently

6.2  Demonstrate robust time management and action planning, adapting for unforeseen circumstances and communicating revisions to your plan as appropriate

# data[].attributes.body
Professionally position personal identity in complex, unpredictable contexts that require the selection and application of varied techniques and information sources.

7.1 Demonstrate understanding of current industry trends and developments and develop techniques for persuasive engagement.

7.2 Demonstrate relevant awareness of any legal requirements, eg copyright, data protection

7.3 Ensure strategic context is accounted for, demonstrating an awareness of the bigger picture and how one situation may be affected by another

# data[].attributes.headline
LO8: EVALUATION AND CRITICAL ENGAGEMENT 

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LO8: EVALUATION AND CRITICAL ENGAGEMENT 

# data[].attributes.body
Evaluation and Critical Engagement The ability to critically evaluate the subject of study as well as your own performance at all stages of the project; to synthesise and evaluate a range of information and develop a course of action; to reflect on performance and independently set personal learning goals.

8.1  Use widest selection of available tools and resources to maximise potential

8.2  Proactively seek opportunities for development to deepen and broaden experience outside ‘comfort zone’

8.3  Reviews progress towards achieving outcome and regularly seek feedback on progress to date, acting on it to improve personal performance

# data[].attributes.body
To encourage the younger generation to favour environmental and ethical brands, looking at how music culture is an effective marketing technique and using it to reach this demographic.

Touching on the outdoor/ activewear trend/ influence

Brand: Patagonia - sustainable with strong ethical morals
Musician: Loyle Carner/ Frank Ocean

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Sustainable fashion is a rising, necessary trend for the future, it's important for future generations to ditch fast fashion

Research and analyse that music/ musicians is an effective marketing technique

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Patagonia introduce new line -

Loyle carner face of the new collection/ campaign

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Generation Z

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Global/ ONLINE

with a focus on the UK & US - similarweb displays these are the brands biggest markets

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A/W 2022/ 3

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- pop-up events
- social media
- traditional marketing

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cover photo:

HALEY, Colin. 2021. Fitz Roy Patagonia. Planet Mountain [online]. Available at: https://www.planetmountain.com/english/gallery/img_d.php?keyID=69583 [Accessed 15/06/22]

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Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.

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Fitz Roy Patagonia, Fitz Roy and the famous Patagonia skyline, photographed in winter by Colin Haley from the summit of Cerro Domo Blanco, Colin Haley - PlanetMountain.com

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.

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Patagonia logo. Wikimedia [online] Available at: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Patagonia_%28Unternehmen%29_logo.svg [Accessed 17/06/22]

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2013-06-17 05:20:38 Marsupilami (11701 Bytes) {{Information |Beschreibung = Logo von [[Patagonia (Unternehmen)|Patagonia]] |Quelle = * Vektordaten: http://www.patagonia.com/pdf/jp_JP/Wetsuit_brochure_us.pdf * Farbinfo: http://www.patagonia.com/images/structure/common/top_nav/patagon…

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Patagonia

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Width | 1024
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https://www.patagonia.com/company-history/
https://www.highsnobiety.com/tag/patagonia/

Started climbing in 1953 (14 years old)
1957 - taught himself to blacksmith to form tools for climbing. Word Spread And friends were after his pitons. Set up a shop in parents backyard.
1965 - Yvon partnered with Tom Frost and started Chouinard equipment. 'During the nine years that Frost and Chouinard were partners, they redesigned and improved almost every climbing tool to make them stronger, lighter, simpler and more functional.'
1970- Chouinard equipment became largest supplier for climbing equipment in the US. Also 'environmental villain' as equipment was damaging the rocks. Took environmental step and started to minimise piton business.
1972- Found an alternative, aluminum chocks that could be wedged by hand rather than hammered in and out of cracks. We introduced them in the first Chouinard Equipment catalog in 1972. Saw clothing as a way to help support the marginally profitable hardware business. By 1972, we were selling rugby shirts from England, polyurethane rain cagoules and bivouac sacks from Scotland, boiled-wool gloves and mittens from Austria, and hand-knit reversible beanies from Boulder (no two were alike).

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Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost working on an early pack prototype in 1973. To calculate its capacity, Frost filled the pack with sand and then dumped the sand into a measurable container.

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This brief history is dedicated to all Patagonia and Chouinard Equipment employees, present and past. Learn more about how Patagonia came to be.

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https://www.patagonia.com/core-values/

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Quality

Build the best product, provide the best service and constantly improve everything we do. The best product is useful, versatile, long-lasting, repairable and recyclable. Our ideal is to make products that give back to the Earth as much as they take.

Integrity

Examine our practices openly and honestly, learn from our mistakes and meet our commitments. We value integrity in both senses: that our actions match our words (we walk the talk), and that all of our work contributes to a functional whole (our sum is greater than our parts).

Environmentalism

Protect our home planet. We're all part of nature, and every decision we make is in the context of the environmental crisis challenging humanity. We work to reduce our impact, share solutions and embrace regenerative practices. We partner with grassroots organizations and frontline communities to restore lands, air and waters to a state of health; to arrest our addiction to fossil fuels; and to address the deep connections between environmental destruction and social justice.

Justice

Be just, equitable and antiracist as a company and in our community. We embrace the work necessary to create equity for historically marginalized people and reorder the priorities of an economic system that values short-term expansion over human well-being and thriving communities. We acknowledge painful histories, confront biases, change our policies and hold each other accountable. We aspire to be a company where people from all backgrounds, identities and experiences have the power to contribute and lead.

Not bound by convention

Do it our way. Our success-and much of the fun-lies in developing new ways to do things.

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Our values reflect those of a business started by a band of climbers and surfers, and the minimalist style they promoted in their lives and their sports.

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Ford Illustration. 2021. Patagonia illustrations. Ford Illustration [online]. Available at: https://fordillustration.com/Patagonia [Accessed 17/06/22]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Product and Instructional illustrations
2013 — 2021
Wading Stick Illustrations

Catalog Illustrations to explain the technical aspects of Patagonia sleeping bags

Expedition Kit

Instructional Illustrations for a backcountry sewing kit

Hang Tags

Pack illustrations for consumer hangtags

Patagonia went through a refresh of all product hang tags and I have been thrilled to create hundreds of illustrations for their products.

This is just a small sample as most of the products are not on the market yet.

The illustration below was used to show the fit difference between mens and womens packs.

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Patagonia — Ford Illustration - Technical Illustrator - Technical Illustration, Vector Illustration, Instructional Illustrations

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Patagonia Technical Illustrations Product and Instructional illustrations 2013 — 2021 Wading Stick Illustrations Catalog Illustrations to...

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https://www.patagonia.com/materials/?utm_source=em&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Welcome_2

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Free Shipping On Orders Over $99*   Trade In, Get Credit

Free Shipping on Orders Over $99

Orders are shipped within 1-2 business days and arrive within 3-10 business days. Need it sooner? Concerned about the environmental impact? Flexible shipping options are available.

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Let Your Gear Live Again

Why not trade it in? We’ll give you trade-in credit and make sure your gear is in good hands.
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Activism

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Stories

Shop

Activism

Sports

Stories

Regenerative Organic Certified™ Cotton

Material

Material

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PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene)

Material

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NetPlus® Recycled Fishing Nets

Material

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The More You Know The Less You Need

The clothing industry won’t change without you.

Shop Informed

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72% of our line uses recycled materials including recycled polyester and recycled nylon. Learn more about the materials used in the products we make.

# data[].attributes.body
Yvon Chouinard founded Patagonia in 1973, which originated by manufacturing and distributing rock climbing equipment before expanding into the apparel industry (Chouinard 2016).  Climbing, surfing, and snowboarding are just a few of the outdoor activities for which the American clothing firm provides clothes and equipment. (Highsnobiety, 2022).

Jenna Johnson is the current CEO of the company, which is based in Ventura, California. The brand made an estimated $800 million in revenue in 2019. (Au-Yeung 2020). Patagonia’s yearly sales are estimated to be around $1 billion (Birch 2021), with over 70 stores and approximately 3000 employees across the world (Anderson 2019).

“The brand is today increasingly becoming the product that is consumed.” (Salzer Mörling and Strannegård 2004). Consumers cannot distinguish a brand’s identity or authenticity without knowing its underlying beliefs. Patagnoia’s core values are critical to the brand’s image since they represent the brand’s purpose and principles to its consumers.

1. High-quality, long-lasting products to limit consumer consumption.

2. Ongoing actions that are less harmful to the environment, with an incentive to be more beneficial.

3. Using the company’s prosperity to give back to the community and protect the environment.

4. Unconventional, with a desire to be creative and come up with new innovative ideas. (‘Our Core Values - Patagonia’ 2022)

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The Responsible Company: What We've Learned from Patagonia's First 40 Years

By Yvon Chouinard, Vincent Stanley

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The Responsible Company, by Yvon Chouinard, founder and owner of Patagonia, and Vincent Stanley, co-editor of its Footprint Chronicles, draw on the their 40 years' experience at Patagonia - and knowledge of current efforts by other companies - to articulate the elements of responsible business for our time.Patagonia, named by Fortune in 2007 as the coolest company on the planet, has earned a reputation as much for its ground-breaking environmental and social practices as for the quality of its clothes.

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FROST, Tom. Yvon Chouinard. Wikimedia. Available at:
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Yvon_Chouinard_by_Tom_Frost.jpg [Accessed 15th Jul 2022]

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# data[].attributes.body
'The age group is perceived as a factor determining social, cultural and political identity; therefore, the study of generations is given a great deal of attention in marketing and communication studies (Bolton et al., 2013: 245–67).'

'This generation, however, prefers social networks to other means of communication. '

'1995-2011 Realism Frivolousness Global society Individualism High

High
Learning for oneself

Insistence on convenience, fun and economical' - Gen Z chracteristics

'Gen Z’s choices are based on customer experience where interaction, transparency and social accountability become inseparably linked to consumption. '

'50% of Gen Z purchase brands if they know a brand is socially conscious (Ferguson, 2018). Very strong social mindset in consumption is indicated in Nielsen’s (2015) survey; according to it, 72% of Gen Z are willing to pay more for the brands with reputation for environmental stewardship. ' -
https://medium.com/dosomethingstrategic/dollars-change-young-people-tap-brands-as-agents-of-social-change-2612b717e5f7
https://www.nielsen.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2019/04/%20Global20Sustainability20Report_October202015.pdf

'Gen Z can be defined as socially conscious consumers.'

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'The fashion ranges produced by increasing numbers of music stars have significance for a contemporary understanding of music fandom because fashion and style   present a means which fans can create cultures and communities and make visible their fan identities.'

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The relationship between popular music and fashion has been a culturally significant one since the 1950s, and this book explores how music and musicians play a key role in the shaping of identity, taste and consumption.

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Abstract

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Citations

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Luxury fashion and hip-hop music have become intertwined, but their relationship remains conflict-ridden. This study examines the collaboration between luxury brands and rappers based on three marketing collaborations from 2019: Gucci, Fendi and Chanel. Critical user and community feedback are examined using quantitative and qualitative in-depth analyses of Instagram posts. The evaluation takes the form of an engagement and sentiment analysis, the results of which mirror previous research on hip-hop marketing and social media monitoring. This study provides insights into the opportunities and risks of lifestyle marketing in collaboration with artists.

Keywords: Instagram; Marketing; community; hip-hop; likes; luxury brands; social media; user engagement

Document Type: Research Article

Affiliations: EBC Hochschule (Campus Düsseldorf)

Publication date: January 1, 2021

More about this publication?

Journal of Digital & Social Media Marketing is the essential peer-reviewed, professional journal for all those involved in the marketing of products or services using digital channels. Its overriding goal is to provide an authoritative, practitioner-focused forum to support the professional development of all those working in, or entering, the field. As such, the Journal's content is both of direct relevance to the practice of digital marketing and intellectually rigorous.

Topics range from measuring and improving digital media effectiveness and ROI to search engine optimisation, from social media marketing to partner marketing, from mobile marketing to email marketing, website design, display advertising, pay per click and detailed marketing analytics. In short the Journal focuses on any of the established and emerging digital media, tools and practices requiring new approaches to marketing, branding and understanding customer behavior and attitudes.

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# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Marketing collaborations between luxury brands and hip-hop artist...: Ingenta Connect

# data[].attributes.body
'innovative strategies as brand collaborations, especially in the fashion industry where brands collaborate with artists, celebrities or other brands to raise awareness, build relationships and achieve competitive advantage through differentiation.'

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Today's consumers tend to focus on uniqueness and on personal and intangible values when making purchase decisions. Thus, companies undertake such innovative strategies as brand collaborations, especially in the fashion industry where brands collaborate with artists, celebrities or other brands to raise awareness, build relationships and achieve competitive advantage through differentiation. However, researchers have not yet focused specifically on luxury and SPA brands to examine how certain fashion collaboration types affect consumer responses and long-term company-customer relationships. In this study, the authors consider luxury and SPA fashion brand collaboration cases and defines their impacts on consumer response and relationships in terms of customer equity drivers, customer lifetime value and customer loyalty. The paper concludes with several academic and industry-related implications to enable further growth of this profitable and innovative brand strategy.

21世纪之前，客户一般选择产品注重其效率和便利性。如今的消费者，在购买决策中强调情感，独特性和个人价值，从而使企业面临着挑战，适应包含内部价值新的品牌战略，以保持其竞争力。时装行业中的公司试图通过合作以确定公司独特性和内部价值，从而使其产品产生差异化。然而，大多数关于时尚协作的研究是实验性的而不是实证性的，很少调查频繁使用奢侈品或SPA品牌的消费群体。

此项研究中，我们专注于侈奢品及SPA品牌，研究时尚合作的类别。此外，我们调查合作类型对消费者响应的影响，消费者的反应对顾客资产驱动变量，顾客忠诚度和顾客终身价值的影响。这项研究调查了748女性受访者，年龄在 20〜40岁之间，具有对Louis Vuitton和H&M的购买体验，并在过去两年购买过奢侈品和SPA产品。根据不同的刺激，我们使用了四种类型的调查。本研究采用SPSS 18.0进行描述性（频率，百分比）分析，因子分析，可靠性测试，聚类分析，方差分析。我们使用AMOS 18.0进行验证性因素分析，结构方程模型分析，以及多组分析。

大多数假说在此项研究中得到支持。本研究发现，奢侈品牌通常由传统形象转向艺术合作，通过流行艺术，漫画，涂鸦等形式。 SPA公司也经常通过与知名品牌和设计师合作，升级其中低价位的形象引起品牌积极响应，让消费者感知质量和排他性。

此外，合作影响响应，资产驱动变量，忠诚，和CLV 。客户期望的奢侈品牌是唯一的，排他的和卓越的;他们期望的SPA品牌为特色的分化。然而，品牌资产并不总是引起重新购买和口碑效应。此外，客户对熟悉并且舒服的原始品牌拥有长期的忠诚;因此，奢侈品牌的独创性是至关重要的。此外，奢侈品牌可能会淡化自己的特性，如果他们与有负面或不一致形象的品牌合作。因此，除了考虑正面的消费者反应和质量感知，质疑品牌合作是否会导致客户忠诚度是十分重要的。

本研究有助于学术理解，通过扩大分析，从实证范围研究时尚协作和各类品牌对消费者反应的影响。此外，本研究测量了合作活动的反应，并探讨客户品牌关系的影响。

对于营销行业的启示，我们提供一些信息关于奢侈品牌和SPA品牌适合的合作类型，从而根据顾客终身价值衡量顾客对公司的财务价值。这将会帮助企业建立更好的客户关系，并运用更多成功的合作战略。

Acknowledgements

This work was supported by a National Research Foundation of Korea Grant funded by the Korean Government (NRF-2011-220-B00014).

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Fashion collaboration effects on consumer response and customer equity in global luxury and SPA brand marketing

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Today's consumers tend to focus on uniqueness and on personal and intangible values when making purchase decisions. Thus, companies undertake such innovative strategies as brand collaborations, especially in the fashion industry where brands collaborate with artists, celebrities or other brands to raise awareness, build relationships and achieve competitive advantage through differentiation.

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NEW YORK, United States - In the age of A$AP Rocky x Dior, it's easy to forget how long it took for high fashion to embrace the cultural power of American hip-hop. In 1982, Daniel "Dapper Dan" Day's infamous boutique opened on 125th Street in New York's Harlem, selling extravagant outfits emblazoned with fake logos from European luxury houses such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Versace. The brands were not amused. Louis Vuitton and Gucci sued and the store was ultimately raided and shut down.

But more than clothes, Day sold transcendence - escape for a class of urban youth who embraced the power of fashion to project the kind of socio-economic status that was otherwise beyond their reach. By the late 1980s, Ralphie's Kids and the United Shoplifters Association, two Brooklyn street crews known for wearing nothing but Polo Ralph Lauren (for which they rarely paid) had joined forces to become Lo-Life, a group that found purpose in the pursuit of the upscale American Dream conjured by the designer. Needless to say, the relationship was one-sided.

Tommy Hilfiger, a brand long linked to music, was one of the first major labels to embrace the growing power of street culture. In the early 1990s, the rapper Grand Puba began name-dropping Tommy Hilfiger in his music and wearing his clothes on album covers. In a bold move, Hilfiger responded positively. In 1994, Snoop Dogg appeared on US television show Saturday Night Live wearing a Tommy Hilfiger shirt gifted to him by the brand and Hilfiger went on to feature Aaliyah and Usher in its advertising campaigns. By 1996, Tupac was walking the runway for Versace.

Today, hip-hop is one of America's greatest cultural exports and the luxury industry has embraced its power as a marketing vehicle: A$AP Rocky for Dior Homme; Travis Scott for Saint Laurent; Pharrell Williams for Chanel; the list goes on. It's now normal when Kanye West appears in American Vogue, or Marc Jacobs' latest collection is a fully-fledged ode to hip-hop culture. How times have changed.

1982: Dapper Dan's Boutique opens on 125th street in Harlem.

Dapper Dan | Source: Dapperdanofharlem.com

1986: Run DMC releases 'My Adidas' and is the first hip-hop act to get an endorsement deal valued at $1 million.

Run DMC | Source: Getty

1988: Two Brooklyn street crews unite to form Lo-Life, based on a shared love of Polo Ralph Lauren.

Low Life Crew | Photo: Tom Gould

1996: Tupac walks Versace's 1996 runway show with his girlfriend and bodyguards.

1997: Singer Aaliyah endorses Tommy Hilfiger in its Tommy Jeans advertising campaign, helping the brand catapult to success.

Aaliyah | Source: Getty

1999: Rappers diversify into fashion, with the launch of Rocawear following labels including Phat Farm and Fubu.

2001: Ja Rule wears Burberry in 'Always on Time' video, reportedly leaving Burberry unhappy.

Ja Rule | Source: Getty

2003: Missy Elliott stars alongside Madonna in Gap advertising campaign.

Missy Elliott & Madonna | Photo: Regan Cameron at Art & Commerce

2005: Pharrell Williams and Nigo design the 'Millionaire' sunglasses for Louis Vuitton.

2009: Kanye West collaborates with Louis Vuitton on a range of luxury sneakers.

2009: Kanye West takes over Paris Fashion Week with his crew including Off-White designer Virgil Abloh.

Kanye West | Photo: Tommy Ton

2015: Kanye West launches Yeezy season 1 with Adidas as part of an ongoing collaboration.

Yeezy Season One | Source: Courtesy

2016: A$AP Rocky stars in Dior Homme's Autumn/Winter 2016 campaign shot by Willy Vanderperre.

A$AP Rocky Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: Courtesy

2017: Marc Jacobs acknowledges the influence of hip-hop on the runway with his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection.

Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 2017 | Source: Indigital

2017: Coming full circle, designer Alessandro Michele references Dapper Dan's bootleg Louis Vuitton coat in Gucci's 2018 Cruise show.

Gucci Cruise 2018 | Source: Indigital
This article appears in BoF's latest special print edition: "America." Did you know that BoF Professionals receive our print issues first? Annual BoF Professional memberships also include unlimited access to articles, exclusive analysis, invitations to networking events and the members-only app. Not a BoF Professional? Subscribe here. The issue is also available for purchase at shop.businessoffashion.com and at select retailers around the world. Related Articles
[ Run-D.M.C.'s 'My Adidas' and the Birth of Hip Hop Sneaker Culture ]

[ Op-Ed | For Musicians, Fashion's Double-Edged Sword ]

[ Will Luxury Streetwear Get Millennials Into Department Stores? ]

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NEW YORK, United States - In the age of A$AP Rocky x Dior, it's easy to forget how long it took for high fashion to embrace the cultural power of American hip-hop. In 1982, Daniel "Dapper Dan" Day's infamous boutique opened on 125th Street in New York's Harlem, selling extravagant outfits emblazoned with fake logos from European luxury houses such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Versace.

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Age, race, ethnicity, gender, marital status, income, education, and employment.

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Zalando x Highsnobiety. 14 JUNE, 2022. Highxtar. Available at: https://highxtar.com/what-does-the-acquisition-of-highsnobiety-mean-for-zalando/?lang=en

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READ IN: Español

If there was one piece of news that the fashion universe echoed yesterday, it was Zalando’s purchase of Highsnobiety. The German fashion e-tailer acquired a majority stake in the medium, opening the door to a new era of collaboration between content and fashion retail.

What started as a streetwear blog created by David Fischer in 2005, would eventually become a benchmark of urban culture. In an extension in various business areas such as creative agency or marketplace of reference with countless exclusive products from cult brands. “Highsnobiety has mastered the art of turning stories into products, and products into stories. That’s why “I’m excited to bring our capabilities to Zalando’s commitment to fashion inspiration, and that together we can reimagine the future of content and merchandise,” said Fischer.

The media company will thus merge its power in streetwear culture (and the new luxury culture) with that of the e-commerce retailer, while maintaining a minority stake in the company, and continuing as an independent entity. In this sense, although both companies are based in Berlin, they will not merge their offices in order to maintain that kind of independence.

MARKETING OF FASHION CONTENT

This union will allow Highsonbiety to learn from one of the leading platforms in online commerce, building partnerships with brands and inspiring audiences with its products and stories, as expressed by Schneider, co-founder and co-CEO of Zalando. To which he continues: “Partnering with Highsnobiety will enable us to execute much faster on our aspiration to become able to deliver the most relevant, engaging and tailored shopping experience to our customers.”

Lanzamiento Highsnobiety x Prada Linea Rossa

The communication media will thus be able to boost its potential in online commerce thanks to the capabilities and resources of the European multinational that was affected after two years of ecstasy and economic growth; suffering the side effects of rapid inflation in consumer spending.

The idea is that, after this operation, Highsnobiety will act as Zalando’s creative and strategic consultant, generating new spaces and formats aimed at inspiring the platform’s audiences: from the creation of podcasts to NFTs. “Fashion is much more than a product; it’s about the culture and all the stories behind the product,” David Schneider stated on the matter. “[Customers] want to have more immersive experiences.”

The truth is that “HIGHS” will only bring a small percentage of its revenue to Zalando, as a company that expects to generate more than $60 million by 2022, with 60% of its revenue coming from Europe. Even so, its great influence and ability to redirect its more than 35 million users, readers (and potential customers) to Zalando could be key in this collective expansion with which they have altered the rules of the game.

In Fashion, Internet

Highsnobiety Laura Pérez

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What does the acquisition of Highsnobiety mean for Zalando?

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Zalando’s purchase of Highsnobiety has been the talk of the town. We delve into the ins and outs of this union.

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Emily Oberg for Coveteur. Hypebae. Available at: https://hypebae.com/2017/4/emily-oberg-coveteur-sneakers-closet-interview

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Emily Oberg welcomed into her home and closet - it should be no surprise that her sneaker collection is stacked. She did make her name known by her low-key sportswear yet luxe looks.

Oberg, who recently became KITH Women's new creative lead, talked about her new role and balancing it with her own brand, Sporty and Rich. She revealed her sneakerhead roots, and more. Check out her rotation above and even more at now.

On who started her sneaker obsession:

"[My Dad] has always been a huge sneakerhead - he got me into it. When I was younger I was a bit more girly, but as I got older I kind of started to admire his style and everything that he was into. He has a pretty big [collection]. Every time I get a pair of shoes he is like, "Oh my god, I can't believe you got that!" He gets so excited about it. He is always asking me where to find certain pairs. It's funny."

On selling said sneaker collection:

"I've thought [about selling my sneakers] because they accumulate so quickly and take up a lot of room, but honestly, I just love having them. I think sneakers are like art. They are so nice to look at and there is something so special about the ones you love. I think it is cool to have a good collection. Maybe one day I will sell them or pass them down."

On her new creative direction role at KITH:

"I am the creative lead of the women's team. We have a team of three designers, who are amazing, and I kind of work with them. I provide a vision of what the line should be, who our girls should be, and who we are making things for [and] we just go from there. I am here for more ideas and themes - I am providing that for them and overseeing all of the editorials, photoshoots, lookbooks, e-commerce and social media. Anything that involves women goes through me as a filter. I love it. It is like my dream job.

I've been lucky enough to have a warm welcome [in this industry]. I feel like all the guys have been so welcoming and so nice and good to me. They have always heard my opinion and what I have to say and what I want to do-they have been so supportive of me. Because there are not many women in this industry they are very welcoming and want to support the ones that are [here], at least in my case."

On her brand Sporty & Rich:

"I started [Sporty & Rich] two and a half years ago. It was a way of describing the style that was going on. I felt like mixing high with low and high with athletic wear or sports wear was such a thing, so it was my way of describing that look. I just started writing it on social, people responded well, and I thought I could turn it into something. I just started randomly making hoodies and tees and people bought them. I always wanted to do a print magazine and so I thought why not just do it under that name? I worked with a lot of my friends and we created a bunch of content together and it put it in the book."

On juggling her schedule:

"People always ask me and honestly, you just have to be willing to give up certain things - like your social life. I'm lucky that I don't like to party and drink - I've never done that so it's not a big deal for me. I maybe have three friends that I hang out with. I really just dedicate all my time to either working or working out - you have to decide what is really important to you. You can't buy time, you have to make the time. I think I have gotten to the point where I am like, this is my life and I am happy with it that way."

On things she can't live without:

"My bed, I love to sleep. Maybe face oil-I am obsessed with face oil. Right now I am using this Kiehl's one-it is this nighttime recovery, a dark blue bottle. What else? I'll say sneakers. And probably group chats, I love group chats. Oh, and memes."

On being asked to prom:

"The people that follow me are so funny-they have a really weird sense of humor. [The weirdest thing someone has said to me is] probably something like, 'If you go to prom, I'll drink your sweat.' Something weird and crazy like that. I was posting G-Wagon's for like a week, the old ones, and I got like 20 messages saying, 'I'll buy you a G-Wagon if you go to prom with me!' I was like, 'Oh my god.' I am not going to anyone's prom."

On drinking:

"I drank once. I was 16 at a party with my friends in high school and had one drink-I wasn't even drunk, I just got super sick so I never drank again. When I do go out I can still have fun. There are also so many bad health effects so it's like, what's the benefit?"

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Tour Emily Oberg's Home and Check Out Her Stacked Sneaker Collection

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Emily Oberg welcomed into her home and closet - it should be no surprise that her sneaker collection is stacked. She did make her name known by her low-key sportswear yet luxe looks. Oberg, who recently became KITH Women's new creative lead, talked about her new role and balancing it with her own brand, Sporty and Rich.

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Gorp/ Hiking core. Imgur. Available at: https://imgur.com/gallery/ucuHkds

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Post with 4 votes and 3890 views. Shared by Tkszn. Gorp/Hikingcore

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Marmot logo. 1000logos. Available at: https://1000logos.net/marmot-logo/

Columbia Logo. Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Columbia_Sportswear_Co_logo.svg

Arc'teryx Logo. Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arc%27teryx

The North Face Logo. 1000Logos. Available at: https://1000logos.net/north-face-logo/

LLbean Logo. Flickr. Available at: https://www.flickr.com/photos/llbeanpr/5517715238

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Marmot is an American sportswear label, which was established in 1974 in Colorado. The brand is most known for climbing apparel and equipment. Marmot is one of the most popular and reliable mountain gear producers.

Meaning and history

The Marmot visual identity is fully based on the company's main profile - climbing equipment. The Marmot logo is composed of a wordmark and an emblem above it. The emblem is often used on its own, especially on websites.

The wordmark is executed in a modern custom serif font, which features founded bold lines. The lowercase "m" looks funny and playful due to the two whisk curves of its vertical bars.

The Marmot emblem is the brightest and strongest element of the brand's logo. It comprises a solid red circle with a stylized letter "M" on it. The "M" is drawn in white and features sharp and confident lines. Its shape resembles snowy mountain peaks.

The "M" is placed diagonally, with its left vertical bar elongated, which creates a sense of movement and dynamics.

The Marmot logo is powerful and confident, evoking a sense of passion for mountain sports and the value of progress and innovation in creating the best climbing apparel and accessories.

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Marmot Logo PNG Marmot is an American sportswear label, which was established in 1974 in Colorado. The brand is most known for climbing apparel and equipment. Marmot is one of the most popular and reliable mountain gear producers.

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Globe Illustration. Clipartix. Available at: https://clipartix.com/earth-clip-art-image-6742/

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BIRKETT, Bill. Cerro Torre 2. Bill Birkett. Available at: https://billbirkett.com/bill-birkett/product/patagonia-fitzroy/

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£250.00

‘Fitzroy, Patagonia’. Los Glaciares National Park, Patagonia, Argentina, South America. The granite massif of Mount Fitzroy is one of the most aesthetic naked mountains in the world. It stands at an altitude of some 11,171ft, the highest mountain in Patagonia, and rises from a spectacularly wild region near the mountain village of El Chalten. This image is taken from the approach path at Mirador del Fitz Roy and the main peak occupies the central point with the lower spire of Aiguille Poincenot standing is to the left. This is real Condor country, with these huge birds soaring over vast distances, but the first humans to climb Fitzroy where Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone in 1952 whilst the technically difficult Aiguille Poincenot was first climbed by Don Whillans and Frank Cochrane in 1962.

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‘Fitzroy, Patagonia’. Los Glaciares National Park, Patagonia, Argentina, South America. The granite massif of Mount Fitzroy is one of the most aesthetic naked mountains in the world. It stands at an altitude of some 11,171ft, the highest mountain in Patagonia, and rises from a spectacularly wild region near the mountain village of El Chalten. This image is taken from the approach path at Mirador del Fitz Roy and the main peak occupies the central point with the lower spire of Aiguille Poincenot standing is to the left. This is real Condor country, with these huge birds soaring over vast distances, but the first humans to climb Fitzroy where Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone in 1952 whilst the technically difficult Aiguille Poincenot was first climbed by Don Whillans and Frank Cochrane in 1962.

Specifications and a brief background about the materials chosen in these prints are below:

Image area 20″ x 15″ (6000 x 4500 px)

Archival paper: Hahnemuehle 350gsm Museum Etching – a natural white, 100% cotton paper, which guarantees archival standards. With its premium matt coating, Museum Etching features a distinct textured surface, which meets the highest industry standards for density, colour gamut, colour graduation and image sharpness, while preserving the special touch and feel of genuine art paper. Hahnemuehle were founded in 1584 and are the oldest German papermakers manufacturing papers for traditional and digital artists. Your print is designed to archival standards and is acid-free.

Archival inks: UltraChrome K3™ ink technology represents a turning point in the history of Giclée printing, producing archival prints with amazing colour fidelity, and scratch resistance, while providing stable colours from the moment prints exit the printer, lightfastness ratings of up to 108 years for colour and over 200 years for black and white under rigorous industry accepted display conditions. Protected with two coats of Fine Art Protective Spray increases the water-resistance of prints and protects images from fading caused by UV rays, and adds up to 100% increase in fade resistance. Also, protects against airborne contamination and ozone damage.

General Care: As with any valued fine art print, it is recommended that it be displayed in indirect lighting conditions and away from any contact with moisture. Using archival materials for mattes, backing and spacers, museum quality framing and UV protected glass/plexiglass will add to the life of the print. The artwork should never directly touch the glass/plexiglass.

Giclée Prints: The paper of the print itself needs to be handled carefully to prevent absorption of oils and/or marks from fingertips. Be careful to avoid dents and creases, since these can be very difficult or even impossible to remove later.

Lighting: It is recommended that you DO NOT keep your Giclée prints in direct sunlight, even though your print comes with UV protective coatings. Less light means less fading from harmful ultraviolet rays.

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‘Fitzroy, Patagonia’. Los Glaciares National Park, Patagonia, Argentina, South America. The granite massif of Mount Fitzroy is one of the most aesthetic naked mountains in the world. It stands at an altitude of some 11,171ft, the highest mountain in Patagonia, and rises from a spectacularly wild reg…

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On the way towards using 100% sustainable materials. AboutH&M. Available at: https://about.hm.com/news/general-news-2019/on-the-way-towards-using-100--sustainable-materials.html

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This is an important part of our mission to make sustainable fashion and design available for everyone today, tomorrow and for generations to come.

When it comes to cotton, 95% of the cotton H&M group sources today is either recycled or sourced in a more sustainable way. This means that we are close to reaching our goal of using 100% preferred cotton (organic cotton, recycled cotton and Better Cotton sourced through the Better Cotton Initiative) by 2020. Monki is already there and has since autumn 2018 used only preferred cotton. In 2020, this will be reality for the entire H&M Group across all brands. According to Textile Exchange, H&M Group is the biggest buyer of preferred cotton in the world, and the second biggest buyer of recycled and organic cotton.

As part of our 2030 goal to only use sustainably sourced materials, we are now beginning to gradually phase out conventional cashmere. For example, H&M will stop placing orders on conventional cashmere at the end of next year. While cashmere is popular for its soft texture and known as a high-quality material, it comes with both environmental and animal welfare challenges.

We will continue to work for a more transparent supply chain, where cashmere is sourced from sustainable sources that are independently certified by standards that cover both animal welfare and environmental aspects. If the cashmere industry in the future would meet our sustainability criteria, we could consider turning to virgin cashmere again. Besides our work to improve the industry, we will also continue to look at alternatives with an equally great feel and value to customers as cashmere, but with less environmental impacts.

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On the way towards using 100% sustainable materials

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Today, 57% of all materials sourced by H&M group are either recycled or sourced in a more sustainable way. This is an increase from 35% in just one year, and takes us closer to our goal to only use recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030.

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https://www.nytimes.com/2019/01/30/books/review-go-ahead-in-rain-tribe-called-quest-hanif-abdurraqib.html

https://pausemag.co.uk/2018/09/spotted-aap-rocky-soaked-in-prada/

https://beloved-brands.com/patagonia/

https://www.gq.com/gallery/the-unabridged-history-of-kanye-west-as-fashion-designerand-the-11-year-road-to-todays-adidas-show

https://www.newidea.com.au/90-s-hip-hop-fashion-hip-hop-clothing

https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/90s-hip-hop-fashion/

https://www.dazeddigital.com/photography/article/35718/1/exclusive-preview-the-first-places-faces-magazine-ciesay-interview

https://www.vogue.com/article/palace-x-polo-ralph-lauren-launch-new-york-city

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Books of The Times

A Tribe Called Quest in a New York recording studio in 1991. From left: Ali Shaheed Muhammad, Phife Dawg and Q-Tip. Credit... Al Pereira/Michael Ochs Archives, via Getty Images

When it comes to experiencing music, our ears tell us only so much. In "Go Ahead in the Rain," his book about A Tribe Called Quest, the poet and cultural critic Hanif Abdurraqib recalls the determination with which he listened to the hip-hop group's fourth album, "Beats, Rhymes and Life," when it was released in 1996. Thinking it would be their last, he was intent on loving it.

His hands, though, were narrating another story. At the time, Abdurraqib was a teenager in Columbus, Ohio, where it would get unbearably cold during the winter; fiddling with the buttons on his Walkman to skip a song on the cassette entailed exposing his skin to the frigid air. And yet: "I would pull my fingers out of gloves and rush to fast-forward what I could before the wind forced my hands back to the warmth they craved."

Abdurraqib's slender book is full of tactile moments like this, remembrances making it clear that A Tribe Called Quest will always evoke more for him than just a sound. "Go Ahead in the Rain" traces the story of the group over the past three decades. It pays attention to the larger changes in the culture, but its overall tenor is warm, immediate and intensely personal.

Credit... Patricia Wall/The New York Times

Abdurraqib begins with a soaring, wide-angle view of the musical traditions that slaves brought to America from West Africa - drawing a path from a percussion that was outlawed by 18th-century slave codes to a jazz that was "born out of necessity" - before landing on his own childhood as a "shy and nervous kid" who took up the trumpet in an attempt to connect with his father. A Tribe Called Quest offered another chance for connection; their early albums, like "People's Instinctive Travels and the Paths of Rhythm" (1990) and "The Low End Theory" (1991), with their jazz samples and socially conscious lyrics, were deemed "acceptable" in his parents' house, where a lot of rap was not.

Readers looking for a biography of the group will find some of the basics here, but it's how Abdurraqib filters the information - absorbing it, refracting it through his own distinctive lens - that gives this compact book its power. He covers, among other things, A Tribe Called Quest's beginnings in Queens; its involvement in the Afrocentric rap collective Native Tongues; and its nadir in the late '90s, when the visionary energy the group brought to bear on its first three albums dissipated into something that started to sound dutiful and desultory.

Two forces hastened A Tribe Called Quest's breakup in 1998, according to Abdurraqib. One was large and impersonal, having to do with the state of hip-hop in the '90s, when a flood of money deepened the apparent divide between commercialism and authenticity, presenting artists with a stark choice: "Be real enough to stay underground, or go pop enough to get money." He locates A Tribe Called Quest and its wide-ranging appeal "at the center of this tug-of-war," with the group getting worn down by the strain.

This smart structural analysis is plausible enough, but what moves Abdurraqib the most is the intense and fractious friendship between two of the group's core members, Q-Tip and Phife Dawg. (Ali Shaheed Muhammad and Jarobi White are also acknowledged as essential members in the book, but they appear mostly as onlookers to the main emotional drama.)

Abdurraqib remembers identifying with Phife from the start: the scrappy M.C. who mastered the ironic art of the punch line, cutting grandiose bombast with comic self-deprecation. Q-Tip gets respect here for his brilliance and ambition, but Abdurraqib likens him to a perfectionist older brother: demanding and a bit aloof, seemingly oblivious to how hard Phife was trying to prove himself.

Hanif Abdurraqib Credit... Kate Sweeney

The theme of mortality runs through the book, which is billed as a "love letter" on the cover but could also be called an elegy. Phife died of complications from diabetes in March 2016, just after A Tribe Called Quest had reunited and recorded "We Got It From Here ... Thank You 4 Your Service," their first new album in 18 years. The album was released just before midnight on Nov. 10, 2016, bearing lyrics that sounded veritably prophetic in light of the election results from just a couple of nights before. "All you black folks, you must go / All you Mexicans, you must go": What might have constituted biting satire in a more (ostensibly) innocent time was beginning to sound like a news transcript.

"Black folks have been creating with their backs against the wall for years, telling the future, speaking what is coming to the masses that aren't eager to hear it until what's coming actually arrives," Abdurraqib writes. He says he is drawn to vibrations, beats and bass lines - "that which can be felt more than heard." You can trace a line between this sentiment and Abdurraqib's stubborn loyalty to cassettes long after CDs became available. CDs promised convenience and flawless digital sound, but cumbersome tapes - "the most tedious and least practical" listening technology - offered something more tangible; their fragility and physical constraints, the effort it took to skip songs, "locked a listener into a commitment."

Hip-hop albums in the 1990s were "sprawling, overrun with skits and Easter eggs" that you might miss if you messed with the fast-forward button. Similarly, the small size of Abdurraqib's book is belied by how much it contains. In one chapter, he moves from The Source magazine to Toni Morrison to Emmett Till and Otis Redding; in another he moves from Philando Castile to Alton Sterling to Sterling's job selling bootleg CDs and another "CD man" Abdurraqib once knew.

"It's funny, isn't it - the things that play on our screens and in our heads for years, detached from any fullness," he writes. To isolate something, to shear it from its context, is to distort it; by gathering stories from the past, Abdurraqib situates A Tribe Called Quest within the fullness of history and memory.

With Phife gone, "a group like A Tribe Called Quest will never exist again," Abdurraqib writes. "At least now, I think, we can lay them to rest." This lush and generous book is a call to pay proper respects - not just to a sound but to a feeling.

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An Intensely Personal Tribute to A Tribe Called Quest

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Books of The Times When it comes to experiencing music, our ears tell us only so much. In "Go Ahead in the Rain," his book about A Tribe Called Quest, the poet and cultural critic Hanif Abdurraqib recalls the determination with which he listened to the hip-hop group's fourth album, "Beats, Rhymes and Life," when it was released in 1996.

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Gods of Rap Tour 2019, De La Soul, Public Enemy Radio, Wu-Tang Clan

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-Make use of a variety of sources.
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