# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
In an age when many consumers seem to want to wear their hearts on their sleeves, how important a criterion is ethics? Morgan Stanley's new survey sheds light on shopping with a conscience.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
When Vogue Australia quietly hit the newsstands in its home country and abroad earlier this month, its theme, which as recently as three years ago would have raised eyebrows among serious fashion-watchers, caused nary a ripple of controversy. Entitled "Designing Our Future," and guest edited by Emma Watson, the fashion bible's most recent edition is completely sustainability-focused, with features on pioneers like Tim Flannery discussing the Great Barrier Reef and Stella McCartney touting sustainable style.

The issue comes at a pivotal time-2018 has already proven to be a year when silenced voices ring out...and it is only April. Cause-related fashion first hit the scene when McCartney launched her fur-free, leather-free business in the early 2000s. Although there were millions of skeptics at first, over the last 15 years ethical fashion - developing, producing and distributing apparel, accessories and footwear in a way that preserves the planet and its inhabitants - has become not only an integral part of the industry, but also a key strategic initiative of many big and small players. As the commercial advantage of brands investing in ethical fashion becomes increasingly evident, companies from Walmart to Gucci have evolved their missions to align with the shifting landscape. No longer just about being eco-friendly, over the coming months and years we will see this trend accelerate and expand to include concern for human and animal rights, community, country, and more.
Young Consumers Are Changing the Game
Brands and retailers are taking this responsibility seriously, encouraged by younger consumers who, it turns out, are more conscious than any generation before it of the origins, composition, carbon footprint, and other consequences of what they purchase and wear. Numerous studies done in the past few years have confirmed that upwards of 65-70 percent of consumers under 35 around the world report that they will choose brands or retailers based on their ethical practices. A 2016 Morgan Stanley Research survey done in the U.K. found that when choosing among retailers, more than half of young consumers find ethical credentials somewhat or very important. These buyers are changing the game for brands, and we will continue to see more attention paid to sourcing factors, as the rapid growth of many new entrants to the fashion scene built on this pillar have demonstrated.

Hugely successful Everlane, one of the first nextgen apparel brands to give detailed information about the factories, costs and raw materials sources for its clothing, was ridiculed early on by industry veterans for its naïveté. Since then, many others, including some large traditional brands like Gap and Levi's, have included sourcing transparency in the information they share with consumers.

Stockholm-based Swedish Stockings has bucked the decline in the hosiery business by making its sheers and tights entirely of eco-friendly recycled yarns and using recycled purified water and renewable energy sources in its closed-loop production system.

While it would be wonderful if this new generation of consumers could see to it that climate change, human rights violations and irresponsible use of resources grind to a halt on planet Earth, many difficult obstacles exist, from finding a consistent definition of ethical fashion to managing supply chains to communicating with consumers. A focus on any of these areas, which tends to add cost to product development and production, must be undertaken carefully by a brand to ensure that the view is worth the climb.

What Does "Ethical" Mean?

One of the first steps a company should take to participate in responsible fashion is to try to cut through all the noise about what ethical and sustainability even mean to them and to their consumers. Does a sustainable garment need to be made of recycled materials, or is being organic sufficient? Where does responsible use of resources like energy, chemicals and water fit into the values hierarchy? And what about animals - do consumers want ethical treatment of animals, like Canada Goose requires in its traceable down-filled and fur-trimmed jackets, or is it better to make animal-free products, like Stella McCartney and handbag brand Matt and Nat? How important-or feasible- is it to ensure that suppliers' employees are paid fairly and have a safe and healthy work environment? And what is the best way to make sure your company is following best practices?

Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli pays his employees a premium above the going rate and takes a lower markup than most of his luxury brand competitors, makes sure his company's practices preserve the environment, and ensures that the cashmere and other raw materials he sources from Mongolia, India and elsewhere are obtained in a sustainable and fair-trade manner.

Big-box retailers are finding that small things can make a big difference. Costco added windows to and dimmed the lights in its stores, and regularly revises transportation strategies to improve energy efficiency and reduce carbon footprint.

Though few millennials would think about Walmart and sustainability in the same idea, the Bentonville behemoth has the scale, and therefore the ability, to save more natural resources than any other company in the industry in its effort to sell products that are sourced and produced with people and planet in mind. It uses recyclable materials in the packaging of all its private label products, and its Project Gigaton, which helps suppliers reduce emissions, is on track to reduce greenhouse gases by one billion tons by 2030, three times the amount produced by California in a year, or the equivalent of taking 211 million cars off U.S. highways for a year.

A growing number of brands believe that ethical conduct, like charity, begins at home. Bombas, a New York-based sock brand, gives away a pair of socks to a homeless shelter for every pair it sells. Made in USA Success story American Giant, whose fans call its $89 classic zipped hooded sweatshirt the best hoodie ever made, appeals to those who want to help U.S. industry survive and thrive.
Expanding the Narrative
Enabled by technology and increased access to consumers through e-commerce and social media platforms, marketers are embarking on education and awareness-building campaigns, expanding their narrative and sharing much more about how products come to be. We will see more information about the industry being shared with consumers as the landscape evolves towards a more sustainable and ethical future.

Rag & Bone and AYR are two lifestyle brands proud of their fair-trade supply policies. Yoga brand Prana has gained tremendous traction since evolving entirely to organic cotton and recycled wool and other fibers. Its website and shops contain a wealth of information about the materials it uses and company-wide fair-trade sustainability practices.

Patagonia, considered by many the poster child for environmental and social responsibility, has as its brand mission statement, "Build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis." It is fair-trade certified for all its sewing product, and publicly discloses its first-tier suppliers. The company prides itself on its long-lasting products, and founder Yvon Chouinard encourages consumers not to buy unnecessary amounts of clothes, and has been wearing some of the same Patagonia pieces for a decade.
Putting the Brakes on Fast Fashion
An issue getting a lot of airtime these days is the sheer amount of waste humans create and fail to handle properly. A startling McKinsey 2016 report revealed that nearly three-fifths of all clothing ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being made. The same report found that the number of garments produced each year has doubled since 2000, exceeding 100 billion for the first time since 2014, or 14 new clothing items for every person on earth.

Consumers are re-examining their tendency to over-buy and under-wear apparel. There is a growing backlash against Fast Fashion and the Disposable Apparel phenomenon. The philosophy of LA-based YSTR is to minimize waste through a creative purchasing process. Every piece is made to order, and their new model is a capsule "slow fashion" subscription, where the consumer can preview styles, order, and wait for items to arrive. The creation of clothing in small batches does away with the waste of creating too many items that go unpurchased.

Fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara are trying to diminish the black and white nature of cheaper versus environmentally-friendly purchases. In early 2017, both pulled out of the annual Dhaka Apparel Summit, sending a message that they will join efforts to pressure Bangladesh into ending poor working conditions and human rights violations in their garment industry. Zara parent Inditex reportedly has a team of 150 sustainability professionals.
Born-Again Fashion
Environmentalists are praising companies that promote the sharing of clothing, like "Rent the Runway," to reduce the waste accumulated by dresses and outfits, particularly special occasion styles, that tend to be worn only once or twice. Resale sites such as Poshmark, The RealReal and ThredUp have scaled rapidly, appealing to both buyers seeking value and sellers who want to monetize items they no longer want.

The affordable LA-based, eco-conscious label Reformation has earned a growing following by being endorsed by celebrities like Taylor Swift and Karlie Kloss. Reformation began by selling re-worked vintage pieces in 2009, and now sells everything from party dresses to casual everyday pieces. Everything produced by Reformation is made at the brand's factory with sustainable fabrics and methods.
Will Consumers Pay More?
It's a tough call to say whether or not consumers, in addition to spending more time and effort to seek out brands and products that were produced responsibly, will also pay extra for the privilege of buying them.

Purchasing one high-quality t-shirt that was ethically sourced, will last for three years, but cost forty dollars could be a far sounder choice than buying one for $15 that will last six months, but how many consumers will make that decision while shopping? Although studies citing consumer willingness to pay more for better quality products abound, there is insufficient data so far to confirm that they're actually doing so. It could turn out that ethical practices become a price of entry for brands and retailers that want to do business with savvy young consumers.

Late last year, in a very public announcement accompanied by representatives from the Humane Society and Fur-Free Alliance, Gucci said it was replacing the kangaroo fur in its popular fur-lined loafers with more-ethical shearling. Although the material changed, the price of the shoes, at a cool $995, didn't.

While Gucci's gesture was a success, taking the ethical route doesn't necessarily guarantee a following. Zady, a high-profile sustainable fashion e-commerce brand worn by Emma Watson recently closed down its site, no doubt a victim to the higher costs and intensified competition in the e-commerce space.

How Are Brands Ensuring Ethical Production Processes Are Being Followed?

Fashion products are produced in a very complex supply chain in which many transgressions can hide. Although improvements in sourcing transparency, labeling and compliance have been made in the past several years, it's hard for brands and retailers to truly know for sure where, how and of what their products are made. They can't visit every factory, or look over their agents' shoulders every second, to make sure their demands are being met.

Although compliance efforts have increased dramatically in recent years, cheating has, as well. At the same time, however, there has been a rise in companies partnering with Bluesign, Oekotex and other firms that certify compliance with standards. The Textile Exchange, ClimateWorks, Ethical Fashion Forum and many, many other organizations are advancing thought leadership and progress in these areas. Each year, a growing number of conferences, leadership initiatives and campaigns are being launched to advance progress in these areas.

No longer just a side project for a staff person with not enough to do, sustainability and ethical practices are now becoming line management responsibilities. Kering's CSO, or Chief Sustainability Officer, drives a results-oriented approach at the luxury goods giant. Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger parent PVH has placed the responsibility of environmental and human rights stewardship under its Chief Risk Officer.
Faux-Pas
What happened to Missguided, a brand popular for its ethical sourcing promise and female empowerment vibe, could serve as a cautionary tale. Last year the Humane Society International discovered cat fur on a pair of the brand's high heels. Dog and cat fur have been banned for use in clothing across the European Union since 2009, which means that the shoes had been sourced illegally. It turns out that real fur is cheaper to source than faux fur in some Asian countries, opening the door for suppliers to switch to the more economical option.

Further complicating the fur issue is that much of the faux fur on the market is made from non-biodegradable and chemical-laden synthetic fibers and other materials such as nylon, acrylic, and polyester. Similarly, many fake leather products are made from plastic materials that are non-biodegradable and produced using toxic chemicals that not only have a negative impact on the environment, but they could have detrimental effects on the factory workers that helped produce the items. By blindly choosing to be good to our four-legged friends, a designer might be harming people and planet. As consumers become more educated and savvy about the true impacts of the materials they wear, brands must be more careful about their raw materials choices.

Stepping into the world of ethical fashion is not without its potential pitfalls, but the all-powerful consumer will increasingly set the bar higher, demanding that companies behave responsibly and according to a shared set of values. Brands rising to meet those expectations could find that the view is every bit worth the climb.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Beyond Sustainable: The Growing Demand for Ethical Fashion - The Robin Report

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
When Vogue Australia quietly hit the newsstands in its home country and abroad earlier this month, its theme, which as recently as three years ago would have raised eyebrows among serious fashion-watchers, caused nary a ripple of controversy.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Homeowners and utilities alike are choosing solar energy at a faster rate than ever before in the United States. The explosive growth of solar power is partly a result of the falling cost of solar panels. Rebates and incentives have also contributed to the United States' biggest year ever for solar. But decreasing costs are only one of the many benefits of solar energy. You can also improve your health and protect the environment by reducing your reliance on fossil fuels and installing a solar energy system at your home or business.

The environmental benefit of solar energy

Solar energy creates clean, renewable power from the sun and benefits the environment. Alternatives to fossil fuels reduce carbon footprint at home and abroad, reducing greenhouse gases around the globe. Solar is known to have a favorable impact on the environment.

Most of the electricity generated in the U.S. comes from fossil fuels like coal and natural gas. Extracting and using fossil fuels is expensive and harmful to the environment. By contrast, solar energy is free and readily abundant - if we could capture all of the sun's energy shining on the Earth for just one hour, we could power the entire world for one year!

By investing in solar energy, you can help reduce our reliance on fossil fuels in favor of one of the most abundant, consistent sources of energy we have available: our sun.

Solar energy decreases greenhouse gas emissions

Generating electricity with solar power instead of fossil fuels can dramatically reduce greenhouse gas emissions, particularly carbon dioxide (CO ₂). Greenhouse gases, which are produced when fossil fuels are burned, lead to rising global temperatures and climate change. Climate change already contributes to serious environmental and public health issues in the Northeast, including extreme weather events, rising sea levels, and ecosystem changes.

By going solar, you can reduce demand for fossil fuels, limit greenhouse gas emissions, and shrink your carbon footprint. One home installing a solar energy system can have a measurable effect on the environment. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, the average home with solar panels in Connecticut uses 8,288 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity per year. Switching from fossil fuels to solar power in the state has the same emissions reduction effect as planting around 150 trees every year.

In New York, the average home uses 7,248 kWh of electricity annually. Choosing a clean source of electricity like solar panels can eliminate the same amount of carbon emissions that would result from burning over 5,000 pounds of coal each year.

Solar energy reduces respiratory and cardio health issues

One of the biggest benefits of solar energy is that it results in very few air pollutants. An analysis by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) found that widespread solar adoption would significantly reduce nitrous oxides, sulfur dioxide, and particulate matter emissions, all of which can cause health problems. NREL found that, among other health benefits, solar power results in fewer cases of chronic bronchitis, respiratory and cardiovascular problems, and lost workdays related to health issues.

The benefits of solar energy are clear. Not only can you save money on your electric bills - you can also reduce your carbon footprint and improve the health of those around you. Compare quotes today to see how much you can save by going solar.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
The Health & Environmental Benefits of Solar | EnergySage

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Homeowners and utilities alike are choosing solar energy at a faster rate than ever before in the United States. The explosive growth of solar power is partly a result of the falling cost of solar panels. Rebates and incentives have also contributed to the United States' biggest year ever for solar.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Many of workers who slipped pleas for help into the pockets of Zara clothes they made have reportedly still not been paid despite an international outcry.

Some 140 Turkish workers at the Bravo Tekstil factory claimed they had not received three months worth of back wages and severance after the factory shut suddenly in the summer of 2016 earlier this month.

It is understood the owner of the company, which made clothes for high street brands such as Zara, Mango and Next, has disappeared.

Their plight came to light when the Clean Clothes Campaign, an activist group trying to improve conditions in the garment industry, teamed up with the workers to slip notes into the pockets of clothing in stores across Istanbul begging for help.

The notes, in Turkish, said: "I made the item you are going to buy, but I haven't been able to get my money!"

The group said they targeted Zara in particular because 75 per cent of the work they did was for that country.

The news prompted outrage around the world, with 293,000 million people signing a Change.org petition directed to Inditex, Zara's parent company, demanding they pay the lost wages.

In response Inditex, along with Mango and Next, said they had already set up a hardship fund for the workers which would be overseen by the global trade union for garment workers, IndustriALL.

But the garment workers said many of them had been excluded from the fund because it was reportedly only designed to compensate the 77 workers IndustriALL deemed "blue collar", CBC News reported.

They classified 63 workers as "white collar" - meaning they had some seniority or did not work on the factory floor - and said this meant they were not entitled to compensation.

Bahar Ugur, who worked as a secretary for the company, said she was owed around 20,000 lira (£3,800) for three months wages and six years' severance pay, but she is unlikely to see a penny.

The 26-year-old said: "We felt like we won.

"There are people who couldn't pay their rent, people who had newborns".

She said they had originally felt "safe" at the company because it made them feel like they were part of a "family" and it was "a big deal to work for them".

The Clean Clothes Campaign's representative in Turkey, Bego Demir, said the distinction between white and blue collars is arbitrary and illegal.

"They already signed an agreement and said we're accepting our responsibility for all of our supply chain", he said.

Inditex has previously been vocal about the need to improve labour conditions in the garment industry.

Last month it sent out a press release about a meeting between its CEO, Pablo Isla, and the Director-General of the International Labour Organisation, Guy Ryder, in Geneva, Switzerland to "explore the progress made to date" on initiatives to improve conditions in "China, India, Brazil, Indonesia, Turkey and Cambodia".

During the meeting, Mr Isla stressed "Inditex's firm commitment to the ILO conventions, on which our Code of Conduct for Manufacturers and Suppliers is based, and to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, especially those related to decent working conditions".

Their Code of Conduct states: "Manufacturers and suppliers shall also ensure that wages and any other allowances or benefits are paid on time and are rendered in full compliance with all applicable laws and specifically, that payments are made in the manner that best suits the workers."

A spokeswoman for Inditex told The Independent: "Inditex has paid all its contractual obligations to Bravo Tekstil but the factory's owner has disappeared fraudulently.

"Inditex has developed a proposal with IndustriALL Global Union (the International Federation of Unions which represents more than 50 million workers globally), together with the brands Mango and Next to establish a hardship fund for the workers affected.

"This hardship fund would cover unpaid wages, notice indemnity, unused vacation and severance payments of workers that were employed at the time of the sudden shutdown of their factory in July 2016.

"At this point in time, IndustriALL with the support of Inditex is still negotiating with its affiliate union in Turkey to try to reach an agreement. We are committed to finding a swift solution for all of those impacted."

The Independent has contacted Mango, Next and IndustriALL for comment.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Zara shoppers found notes sewn into their clothes from unpaid workers. Now the story has taken an even more disturbing twist

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Many of workers who slipped pleas for help into the pockets of Zara clothes they made have reportedly still not been paid despite an international outcry. Some 140 Turkish workers at the Bravo Tekstil factory claimed they had not received three months worth of back wages and severance after the factory shut suddenly in the summer of 2016 earlier this month.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The city of Paris has announced official plans to become the most sustainable fashion capital by 2024. The initiative, entitled 'Paris Good Fashion' will aim to push the fashion industry towards using more sustainable practices, reports.

The process will be carried out through three themes: improving sourcing and traceability, working on making processes more sustainable (including Paris Fashion Week) and creating a circular economy. The proposal was announced on Monday at the Institut Français de la Mode by Frédéric Hocquard (the deputy to Paris mayor Anne Hidalgo in charge of cultural diversity and nightlife), Antoinette Guhl (the deputy in charge of social economy and solidarity) and former fashion journalist and the first editor-in-chief of Jalouse, Isabelle Lefort.

"When I started out in fashion 20 years ago, no one talked about sustainability," Lefort said. "But the world has changed: we are in a situation of ecological disaster. This is a huge concern for the younger generations, who are appealing to fashion brands to change their processes. We need to create a dialogue between those two worlds."

The sustainability roadmap is due to be released in June - and the city aims to have become the "sustainable capital of fashion" by 2024, which is when the city hosts the Olympic Games.

Just a few weeks ago, the Council of Fashion Designers of America announced its own sustainability initiative, which hopes to encourage brands to follow more eco-friendly practices in the US.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Paris is aiming to be the sustainable fashion capital of the world

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The city of Paris has announced official plans to become the most sustainable fashion capital by 2024. The initiative, entitled 'Paris Good Fashion' will aim to push the fashion industry towards using more sustainable practices, reports. The process will be carried out through three themes: improving sourcing and traceability, working on making processes more sustainable (including Paris Fashion Week) and creating a circular economy.

# data[].attributes.body
Testing Mo

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
The environmental audit committee (EAC), made the comments in its interim report on the sustainability of the fashion industry, which ranked major UK fashion retailers on their level of engagement with ethical and sustainable issues.

Numerous high street or fast-fashion retailers, including Asos, Boohoo and Missguided were asked to submit evidence on areas such as their use of organic or sustainable cotton, limiting the discharge of hazardous chemicals, and the re-use or recycling of unsold stock. They were then grouped into three categories.

Asos, Marks & Spencer, Burberry, Tesco and Primark were grouped as the "most engaged", because of factors such as participation in the Ethical Trade Initiative (ETI) and the use of sustainable and recycled materials.

"Moderately engaged" retailers were Next, Arcadia Group, Asda and Debenhams.

JD Sports, TK Maxx, Sports Direct, Amazon, Boohoo and Missguided all fell into the "least engaged" category. They were criticised for failing to sign up to pledges to reduce carbon, water and waste footprints. Labour market initiatives were also found to be lacking, and Boohoo was singled out for MP's "concern" over its approach to trade union initiatives.

Amazon was also criticised for its lack of engagement with the committee's questions, and the report noted the footwear retailer Kurt Geiger did not respond to requests for evidence.

Mary Creagh, chair of the EAC, called the lack of real action in the results "shocking". The fair pay of workers came in for particular criticism.

"We want to see a thriving fashion industry that employs people fairly, inspires creativity and contributes to the economic success of the UK," she said. "It's shocking to see that a group of major retailers are failing to take action to promote environmental sustainability and protect their workers. It's disappointing that only a third of the retailers we wrote to are signed up to ACT [Action, Collaboration, Transformation], an important global initiative working towards getting a living wage for all garment workers."

The report concluded that the current business model for UK fashion industry is unsustainable, and that retailers must lead change through labour market and environmental sustainability practices and show leadership through engagement with industry initiatives.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
MPs blast retailers for 'failing' on sustainability

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
The environmental audit committee (EAC), made the comments in its interim report on the sustainability of the fashion industry, which ranked major UK fashion retailers on their level of engagement with ethical and sustainable issues.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.provider_name
CSRHub - Integrate ESG with investing, see ESG ratings and Sustainability info on over 58,267 of the world’s largest public and private companies.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
ESG ratings information for Urban Outfitters

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Urban Outfitters, Inc. is a specialty retail company which offers a variety of lifestyle merchandise to defined customer niches through Urban Outfitters stores in the United States, Canada, and Europe, two web sites and a catalog; Anthropologie stores, a web site, catalog and Leifsdottir, Anthropologie’s newly launched wholesale concept; Free People Wholesale, which sells its product to approximately 1,700 specialty stores and select department stores; Free People stores, a web site and catalog; and Terrain garden center.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How Ethical Is Urban Outfitters? - Good On You

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This fashion chain has crafted a name for itself with its on-trend clothing. But how does it rate on the Good On You app? How ethical is Urban Outfitters?

# data[].attributes.body
https://www.thereformation.com/pages/sustainable-practices

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How Ethical Is Urban Outfitters? - Good On You

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This fashion chain has crafted a name for itself with its on-trend clothing. But how does it rate on the Good On You app? How ethical is Urban Outfitters?