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Can 'international' chefs produce French cooking? The reading suggests that they are in fact revolutionising and breathing air back into the stuffy food of Paris.

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* France's culinary tradition is withering (ready made meals, rise of McDonalds, disappearance of raw-milk cheese)
* New wave, rise of young foreign chefs
* Diners in Paris yearning for sense of adventure and fun
* French cuisine no longer belongs exclusively to France

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- The artisanal nature of French cuisine has been diminished
- Non-French chefs have been reviving French cuisine in Paris
- Years ago, the thought of foreign chefs preparing authentic French would would have been laughable, however it is being embraced nowadays.

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- 70% of restaurants in France pre-produced their food in large industrial kitchen
- Declining french culinary traditions - disappearance of raw-milk cheese and french wine.
- but being reinvigorated - nouvelle nouvelle cuisine made up of foreign chefs making either french food or international food to french people (mostly in Paris).
- decline of French economy was the downfall of luxury restaurants
- hello Bistros!
- difference from nouvelle cuisine - this food is focused on restaurant-goers/the people.
- there are an array of prominent restaurants in France ran by foreign chefs

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-French cuisine in decline
- france is mcdonald's 2nd most profitable market
-had become "dull, predictable food city"
-foreign chefs are reviving french cuisine
-the french want some adventure in their food!
- "signaling that French cuisine no longer belongs exclusively to the French"
- making food more affordable
-essentially a mini culinary revolution occurring

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Interesting: James Henry's Bones restaurant is closed and his new restaurant called "Jones" has opened.

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- Tradition French food has been declining, and processed foods increasing.
- Citizens are preferring foods outside of the strict-tradition of French food => for an 'adventure', a new experience (Food Adventurer)
- New wave to the French cuisine: Rise of foreign chefs, bring their foreign culinary practices or replicating the traditional French cuisine.
=> Representing a strong cultural movement in France (goes against France's political attitude of 1 nation, 1 culture).
Bones -> uses French fresh regional produce.
Roseval -> demonstrates that geographical locations of restaurants are moving away from the city due to affordability.
Albion -> Restaurant scene is more patient and calmer in France than in other cities (London, NY) => SURPRISING!! [Doesn't appear logical].
Japanese chefs are replicating French cuisine very well in France apparently.

One could say that this culinary adaption is becoming a positive aspect to french culture, by exciting their Food Adventurers. However, it is reducing French's 'pure' and 'superior' culinary attitude.

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- emphasis on local produce
- prestige of being a 'chosen group' - only 20 groups
- purpose of having associations ensures the longevity of the cuisine
reinforces culture
- farmers, chefs, restaurants -> old cooking utensils and methods, ancient recipes
- feminine representation is very limited

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Associations of chefs who aim to share their knowledge of food and their knowledge of local ingredients, particularly food throughout history in Catalonia -> each are promoting and valuing local produce, cuisine and culture

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- The Catalan Generalist (Catalan government) proudly promotes its rich gastronomic history.
- it promotes groups of chefs and restaurants that preserve and promote Catalan cuisine.
- They promote these groups for tourists to "discover" Catalan cuisine

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Feste i mercats a Catalunya

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Institut Municipal de Mercats de Barcelona

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- Catalan cuisine is representative of the history and legacy of past civilisations
- Emphasis on local, quality cuisine and good, traditional cooking
- Some ancient recipes are preserved, some old cooking techniques and utensils are recovered

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- Catalan cuisine represents their cultural history and way of life => legacy of past generations, the climate influencing their produce and the cooking methods that have been passed down by generations.

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Food, preparation and consumption are inextricably link to Catalonian identity and culture.
...
Catalonia food resistant and "seems indestructible" to centralisation under Franco
...
With the death of Franco came empowerment for Catalonian's; the opportunity to celebrate their regional identity
...
Unlike France where Paris is the gastronomic capital, Spain is a country of many (diverse) cuisines.
...
Catalonian cuisine looks outward rather than inward - a borrowing from other Mediterranean food cultures. What sort of statement does this make in regards to the Franco dictatorship and centralisation?

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Quotes on the link between food and culture - Zara 

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Quotes on the link between food and culture - Zara 

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"the preparation of food, as understood by Levi-Stauss, becomes a collective and distinctive feature unique to a nation"

"scholars like Uma Narayan see how food has much to reveal about how we understand our personal and collective identities as the seemingly simple acts of eating are flavoured with complicated and sometimes contradictory cultural meanings"

"Thinking about food can help reveal the rich and messy textures of our attempts at self-understand, as well as or interesting and problematic understanding of our relationship to social Others"

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- Catalan cuisine is rich in history and culture.
- more than 20 Catalonian Cuisine Associations (some made up of restaruants, others chefs, and others farmers)
-some groups use ancient recipes, some use old cooking utensils and methods
- some groups simply prize local produce

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"The legacy of other civilisations, the climate, the landscape and traditions are all present in Catalan cuisine."

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"The legacy of other civilisations, the climate, the landscape and traditions are all present in Catalan cuisine."

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- the importance of cookbooks, as we read more than eat.
- Pampille - centred on French authentic cooking and eating (referring to eating regional food in that region)
- my view: Pampille's view may have been right then, but now with globalisation and ease of access to objects and fresh foods, you can still have an authentic french meal in Melbourne (minus the French landscape).
- French hegemony in food (my view: still exists today).
- still today we seek a connection between food and a place (terrior).
- codes define french food
- food is adopted due to taste and taste is based off what is familiar.
- Le Grand Chef - national identity in food

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* The importance of recipes over the material food itself in developing and sustaining a national cuisine and identity
* The importance of respecting the diversity of regions while at the same time unifying the naiton
* Recognisable cuisines
* Importance of method rather than particular ingredients (from the correct region) - makes the dish highly recognisable and able to transcend time, people, places and products

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- Parkhurst Ferguson suggests recipes as primary indicators of identity
- Food criticism and commentary along with reciples are important, as we are able to read far more than we can possibly eat.
- A 'national cuisine' can bring together regions as a nation
- Culinary nationalism is still alive and well in the 21st century, geographical and political boundaries have been abolished by new modes of transportation and technology
- Parkhurst Ferguson explains how cuisine and place are inextricably linked, many countries propose culinary distinction as a marker of identity
- In culinary practice, tradition and conventions must be balanced with innovation and creativity

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The transformation/development of a cuisine...
- necessary to understand the foreign influence to make sure the main cuisine is still recognisable.
If not - it creates a 'yuck factor' => also a confusion with national identity and less meaning/emotional attachment to the dish.

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Feminism: The cookbook "Le bons plats de France" - written by a woman "Marthe Allard Daudet". Interesting to note she used a pseudonym - this is significant regarding the acceptance and view of women - appears she was still hiding beneath the patriarchal society of that time.
- Different because instead of showing an invention of a new French cuisine - she detailed the Best dishes of France which highlights the culture and nationalism of France through the strengthening of an imagined community
- She also stressed that cooking was for all and that one did not need to be a chef to create authentic french cuisine - one could do it in a domestic setting. -> Encouraging good food throughout the French population. E.g. Le Pot-au-feu

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"Codes define French cuisine, not place, not products and not people" -> to a certain extent I agree with this statement, as codification highlighted a sense of authenticity, tradition and recognition of French cuisine. BUT, as Marthe Allard Daudet mentioned - the region of a dish is highly important in generating that authenticity and tradition, of which one should not consume a dish that is not from that region. That was based on the fact that particular regions are more preferable for certain products. It was stated that the landscape of the dish should be properly represented in a dish to have the 'best true taste' it can get.

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What sort of role does creativity play in the evolution of culinary nationalism?

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Summary/Key Points:

-Parkhurst Furguson's reading explores representations of culinary nationalism. She using the example of Pampille's representation of culinary nationalism in her cookbook Bons Plats de France. Pampille diverges away from from the idea of French cuisine being represented by men such as Careme, and asserts that the nation's cuisine is found "every day in ordinary kitchens by ordinary cooks". Furthermore, Pampille also believes that consuming the product on the land in which the product was grown is inherently important in order to experience the highest quality cuisine. With this asserted, Parkhurst Furguson suggests that Pampille's recipes were not created to be made and consumed but to be read; they are a marker of authenticity and a representation of place (often regional).
-Pampille promoted culinary nationalism as culinary singularity, following codes and eating regionally to ensure the greatest quality of consumption. With transport and technological innovations, national cuisine is much more portable and culinary nationalism been a part of a process of change with increasing globalisation.
-With culinary competitions such as Bocuse d'Or we have seen the portability of a cuisine - does this make it any less authentic and representative of a nation? Afterall, it may still be following the codification principles we explored in yesterday's lecture.
-With increasing global access to national cuisine's removed from their motherland, Parkhurt Ferguson suggests that cuisine is linked to place, even if it isn't sourced, prepared and consumed in that place. In this way, culinary nationalism has evolved since Pampille's cookbook.

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Zara - Le Bons Plats de France ("good dishes of France") 

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Zara - Le Bons Plats de France ("good dishes of France") 

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"Food studies is the belief that what and how we eat is essential not only to the way we live but also how we think about life, ourselves, and the worlds that we inhabit."

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Le Grand Chef (2007) "tells the story of the culinary competition for a legendary knife that had belonged to the last Imperial chef. So intense was his devotion to the Emperor that, rather than practice his art for the Japanese occupiers, the chef chopped off his own hand. The Japanese conquerers confiscated the knife."
A film that portrays how culinary nationalism works to identify cuisine and country identification. The international context defines the national identity.
"Virtually every frame of the film impresses upon us that cuisine, indeed, is country."

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At a press conference, a cooking knife of a special spirit is being presented to the public. The knife belongs to the last Korean royal chef of the Chosun Dynasty who cut his arms with this knife to show his loyalty to the king and the country.

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-France "a culinary country" -> "cuisine and nation coincide"
-recipes: main sign of identity
- Pampille (Marthe Allard Daudet): aware of france's cuisine, recorded recipes, dishes from provinces are what make  france a culinary country (1913)
-history and cuisine linked
-cuisine brings together regions and unites a nation
-100 years ago, cuisine was very region dependent
-  with globalisation, more countries use their food and cuisine as an identifier
-authenticity of ingredients
-how adaptable are the rules and "guidelines" of a cuisine, the less dependent a cuisine is on its produce, the more versatile it is and thus is held in higher regard.

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Melbourne International Comedy Festival All Stars Gala

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Masterchef - Disgustingly contrived | Jason Byrne, Jo Stanley, Mikey Robbins, Peter Berner

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https://www.youtube.com/user/ComedyChatChannel Hosted by Peter Berner Executive Produced by Darren Chau (the Comedy Channel) Executive Produced by Johnny Lowry 'You Have Been Watching' is an Australian television comedy panel discussion and review television series (based upon the UK series of the same name).

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1.     Funeral Suppers => unique and theatrical it was symbolic of his disturbed mindset.

2.     Childhood neglect and maltreatment was based on his deformed hands = impacted onto his adult life. Because he was disowned in that environment he mocked his family, as well as the aristocracy of which his family was a part of. *He was theoretically disowned, but he was still able to appreciate both class systems.  He probably got an insight into high cuisine during this time too.

3.      His food guides on fine dining and culinary experiences goes beyond just the food, but also to the dining setting etc.

4.     Food critique -> inspired the appreciation of food, which had an impact onto society over the years. For example, Master Chef’s Matt Preston

5.     Monastery -> He developed his appreciation for cuisine and became a “gastronome” when he was banished by King Louis XIV for his scandalous behaviour that painted the upper-class society including the monarchy in a very unfavourable light.

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Born: 20 November 1758, Paris, France

Died: 25 December 1837, Villiers-sur-Orge, France

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZxIHm-QmOY

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I'm interested in exploring how Grimod and Careme's texts/food philosophies/authority are similar and different.

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What I found interesting:

-       Grimod hosted a “funeral supper” that featured a black theme including the food – truffles, raisons, blueberries and caviar were featured. The dinner party was to mock his family and the aristocracy of French society (despite the fact he had an aristocratic family background).

-       The pig that he dressed up to represent his father apparently exploded at the party (from another source), which created such a scandal that the King banished him to Naples.

-       He lived in a monastery amongst the monks, where he became a gastronome during the Ancien Regime. However, I find this perplexing – was it the local produce that he could grow and consume that inspired him? Or was it more that he began to appreciate the advancement of Haute Cuisine from the simplicity of monastery cuisine.

-       Later on, he became astonished that even the wealthy did not properly understand/appreciate the Art of fine dining, despite spending exuberant amounts of money on dining. To him this appeared wasteful and ignorant.

-       Therefore, to educate he published a book (Almanach des Gourmands) along with 8 editions which highlighted the appreciation of cuisine and as well as a manual to best host a fine dinner party (Manuel des Amphityons).

-       For his preparation on the Almanach des Gourmands – he would invite 12 friends to judge the dishes that chefs would offer to gain reviews. If the review was negative – it would cost the chef his career, but if the review was positive it would lead him to success.

-       He changed the view of a gastronome which was considered a rich glutton, to an individual who knew a lot about cuisine and who respected and found pleasure in food and fine dining.

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Grimod was one of the first food reviewer and critics. He spent his adolescence rebelling against his aristocratic parents with audacious pranks, in particular the "funeral supper". At this occasion, Grimod put on an supper that insulted his family and questioned social hierarchies. He continued to host controversial dining experiences until one occasion where he went too far and was arrested. Later, he went on to become involved in reviewing and critiquing food, by creating a club where a group of diners would taste and review dishes submitted by caterers, purveyors or restauranteurs. He is known as the first person to review and critique food.

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Grimod acquired fame in France for his public and extravagant gastronomic lifestyle. He hosted lavish dinner parties with a funeral theme - the "funeral supper" as a way of rebelling against his family and his society. He later became very involved in appreciating and evaluating French cuisine, reviewing dishes and publishing findings in his "Almanach de Gourmand". After many years he revived the idea of the "funeral supper" when he faked his own death and then rose out of his coffin at his own funeral supper.

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With his life (1758-1837) straddling the Revolution and a passion and understanding for the culture and finest culinary preparations of the ancien regime, Grimod penned multiple volumes of Almanach des Gourmands (between 1803-1812). His work was conceived in the frustration that the society of the Revolution (particularly Parisian’s) were fixated with an unrefined materialism. He believed that the “nouveaux riches bourgeois and proletarians” (p. 5) needed a guide to the gastronomic arts that would assist them in balancing haute cuisine at a reasonable cost. This guide offered a unique and previously undocumented insight into the food and culture of the ancien regime and from the second volume onwards offered its readers reviews of restaurateur's conveyed by Grimod's Jury Degustateur.

Whilst our understanding today of haute cuisine and fine dining may not be synonymous with 'budget', this was just one of the dichotomous characteristics of Grimod. Born into an aristocratic family with deformed hands, his parents as good as disowned him, dropping the de from his name and bastardising him under French law. This tumultuous and complicated relationship contributed to Grimod's eccentric, dark and highly theatrical 'funeral suppers' as a younger man (1783-86). The 'funeral suppers' were evenings that "questioned social hierarchies and reminded all that death was the great equalizer" (p. 3).

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Grimod's solution to solving the problem of nouveaux riches that understood little of the art of fine dining, was to suggest "that what the public really needed was a reliable guide to the gastronomic arts", and thus the first edition of the Almanach des Gourmands was published a mere 25 days later.

The creation of this almanac, led to three important revelations:

First, the bourgeois and elite publics had access to Parisian gastronomy, the best restaurants organised by neighbourhood, and the culinary preparations of the ancien regime.

Second, the Jury Degustateur - first food critics who determined which restaurants and caterers would be mentioned - "a favourable mention in the succeeding Almanach could make a business" - with strict parameters regarding attendance and participation.

Finally, the word gourmet stems from his decision to use Gourmands for his Almanach. The use of the word formed a change in attitude towards the 'pleasures of the table' rather than the gluttonous overtones the word had in his time. Grimod argued that 'while the gourmand was a voluptuary at the table, he or she was also reflective and thoughtful.'

The eight volumes of the Almanach "had encouraged 'people to study, and to deepen their knowledge of this great Art of dining.'"

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the man, the myth, the legend

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" A true gourmand was always aware that the gastronomic art encompassed , 'all questions of moral philosophy, all societal considerations as well .. [which art] only seems superficial to those of common minds, who see in cooking only pots, and in dishes served only a dinner"

Questions of moral philosophy????

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- Grimod was a French aristocrat who was constantly rebelling against his superficial parents (they treated him poorly due to his malformed hands).
- after receiving prosthetic hands he immersed himself in the luxe aristocratic life of arts, food and culture, which compounded with his complicated relationship with his family saw the inception of the funeral supper.
- This supper became notorious for its food, decor and Grimod's odd behaviour, which led to him becoming exiled to an abbey.
- He left France when the revolution took place and made peace with his father. They travelled and learnt about foods and tried to start a business venture together.
- He was eventually let back into France, as his parents did not give him his aristocratic title when he was born.
- He hated the nouveaux riches and wanted to teach people the art of fine dining and did so through eight successful volumes of Almanch.
- He also started the Jury Dégustateur, essentially the first food reviewers.
- He also essentiall coined the word gourmande (gourmet).
- He was incredibly influential in French food culture.

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Summary:
- Grimod was born into an aristocratic family (18th century) , with hand deformations and was not very loved by his parents. A young lawyer and theater critic, he had issues with his family and society and ridiculed/insulted both in lavish "funeral suppers" where he featured black foods
- Later began to study the "arts of the table, rather than the table as art": travels around and learns about different culinary techniques and cuisines.
-publishes 8 volumes of Almanach de Gourmand", concerning fine dining and Parisian gastronomy among other things. Gourmand: a french term synonymous with a gluton, but Grimod argues that the term be used for people who have "an enlightened sense of taste. He did this wanting people to appreciate fully "the table", introduce elite dishes to a wider audience, and incite a deeper understanding, appreciation and enthusiasm about food
-Grimod began inviting people to submit and critique dishes: Jury Dégustateur (fairly, allowing creators to improve dishes)

Interesting things:
- the whole funeral supper idea, especially how he reprises it when, in his last few years,  he pretended he was dead and invited guests to another legendary evening, only to rise out of his coffin, alive.
-people would come and observe the funeral suppers, allowed as a way that Grimod could mock tradition at Versailles (eventually stopped)
-dressed up a pig in his father's clothes

Food is so much more than a necessity for survival; it is to be appreciated and valued as an art with

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http://www.catalunya.com/what-to-do/savour/gastronomy-with-a-past-with-the-cuisine-associations

Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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Summarise the reading here...

...maybe 150 words?

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Summarise the reading here...

...maybe 150 words?

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DAY 8: Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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DAY 8: Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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Summarise the reading here...

...maybe 150 words?

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Summarise the reading here...

[double click to edit]

...maybe 150 words?

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

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DAY 2: Kaufman, C. 'The Claw at the table: The gastronomic criticism of Grimod de la Reynière'

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DAY 2: Kaufman, C. 'The Claw at the table: The gastronomic criticism of Grimod de la Reynière'

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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No Readings Project work DAY 4, DAY 5 or DAY 6

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DAY 3: Parkhurst Ferguson, P. 'Culinary nationalism' 

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DAY 3: Parkhurst Ferguson, P. 'Culinary nationalism' 

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Add your own byte-sized musings until you have built up a collaborative picture of the reading ready to share with the class. Consider the following:

How would you summarise the reading's content or main points?

What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

How does the content relate to your own knowledge and experience?

What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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thoughts, responses, ideas, examples...

[double click to edit]