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Ensuring your supply chain is sustainable and ethical

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Ensuring your supply chain is sustainable and ethical

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Sustainability has become increasingly important to the business community and companies looking to become more sustainable soon turn their attention to supply chains.

Issues companies need to tackle include climate change, resource scarcity, water availability, labour conditions and modern slavery.

"The imperative to manage supply chain risk has never been higher," says Geoff Lane, a supply chain sustainability expert at consultancy PwC. "We are seeing a step change in interest for two reasons. It is becoming evermore important for any company with a brand to protect - if something goes wrong in the supply chain, it is going to come back and bite you. And the operational risk is increasing too, in relation to access or availability of raw materials.

"In the past, companies would talk to their suppliers and then leave them to get on with it. But there has been a realisation that this is not good enough. Now there is a much more hands-on approach."

Engaging with suppliers

One example of this is the work done by the supply chain programme of CDP. The global disclosure not-for-profit environmental organisation wrote to 4,300 suppliers on behalf of 89 of the world's biggest purchasers, who spend $2.7 trillion between them with suppliers, asking for data on their carbon emissions.

"For the average company, the vast majority of its greenhouse gas emissions are in its supply chain - four times its direct emissions," says Dexter Galvin, head of the supply chain programme at CDP. "Far too little is being done to engage supply chains, but there is a huge opportunity from doing so."

The suppliers who responded to the CDP request reported that they cut 434 million tonnes of CO ₂ emissions, equivalent to the amount produced by the French economy, and saved $12.4 billion in the process.

But it is not just emissions that suppliers need to tackle. There is a growing demand from consumers to know the source of the products they buy, in part so they can be assured workers or animals are not being exploited. "Customers want provenance like never before," says Murray Sayce, a sustainability expert at Ramboll Environ.

There are also a growing number of regulations that require businesses to deal with their supply chains, from the high-level aspirations of the Paris Agreement on climate change and the sustainable development goals of the European Commission's Directive on Non-Financial Reporting, the UK's Modern Slavery Act and listing requirements from stock exchanges.

For the average company, the vast majority of its greenhouse gas emissions are in its supply chain

But supply chains are increasingly complex and opaque. "Some companies will have 10,000 suppliers, for example cocoa farmers in Ivory Coast or in the textiles industry in Bangladesh. Getting visibility to the end of the supply chain is virtually impossible," says Mr Sayce. To improve this situation, companies need to map their supply chains, identifying hotspots for issues such as human rights, gender diversity and political stability, he says.

While this has been difficult in the past, companies now have much more technology and data available to them, and the capacity to analyse it properly. "There is an emerging use of data and analytics that is helping companies to predict where risks are going to occur," says PwC's Mr Lane.

Companies are imposing stricter requirements on their suppliers, with some dropping those that fail to implement more sustainable practices, adds Mr Galvin.

There is also a growing recognition that many issues are too big for single companies to tackle on their own, according to Dominic Regan, senior director, Europe, Middle East and Africa logistics applications, at Oracle. "The next level of savings will come from collaboration across supply chains," he says.

Initiatives range from sharing logistics operations to industry co-operation through schemes such as the Cement Sustainability Initiative, Better Cotton and the Round Table for Sustainable Palm Oil. Mr Sayce concludes: "The more companies that share this information, the easier it becomes."

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Ensuring your supply chain is sustainable and ethical - Raconteur

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Sustainability has become increasingly important to the business community and companies looking to become more sustainable soon turn their attention to supply chains. Issues companies need to tackle include climate change, resource scarcity, water availability, labour conditions and modern slavery.

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Ethical Issues remaining in the fashion industry

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Ethical Issues remaining in the fashion industry

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In April 2013, 1,134 people died in the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse in Dhaka. The ensuing Bangladesh Accord on safety notwithstanding, action on ethical issues endemic in fashion supply chains has since proved sluggish. Four years on and numerous sweatshop exposés later, fast fashion is making only slow progress.

Why?

Admittedly, the sector is a plus-size model. Businesses are global, supply chains complex. Expectations of transformation therefore need to be realistic, says Sass Brown, founding dean of DIDI (Dubai Institute of Design and Innovation). "Change is a process. We are trying to change the direction of an industry that is the third largest in the world. That requires a major culture shift and that takes time," she says.

True though that may be, time is not on the side of those suffering exploitation. The International Labour Organization (ILO) estimates there are 21 million victims of forced labour worldwide and 168 million in child labour, down from 246 million in 2000. In joint research by the Ashridge Centre for Business and Sustainability, and Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI), 71 per cent of companies admitted the likelihood of modern slavery in their supply chains.

Putting policy into practice

Tackling matters head on, the UK government has taken a global lead on legislation, with the Modern Slavery Act 2015 imposing reporting requirements on organisations with at least £36-million turnover. Policy is one thing, though, practice another.

According to Carry Somers, founder and global operations director at Fashion Revolution, most brands do ban child labour within their supplier code of conduct, but many fail to police performance, leaving themselves and their consumers in the dark. "The majority of fashion brands have little or no supply chain transparency down to raw material level," she says. "Child labour is still rife in cotton fields, as well as in ginning and spinning, so how do consumers know they aren't supporting it with the next garment they buy?"

Fashion Revolution believes the first step towards transparency and transformation starts with one simple question, "Who made my clothes?" On April 24, every year, people are encouraged to wear garments inside out for Fashion Revolution Day, displaying brand and maker labels, to mark the Rana Plaza anniversary.

Maintaining you cannot tackle exploitation unless you can see it, Ms Somers considers transparency a prerequisite for improving conditions and collaborative action. Public scrutiny and consumer demand will then drive change. She contends: "We are seeing greater levels of disclosure mainly because citizens are holding brands to account - transparency is becoming obligatory. It is coming at companies, like it or not."

Collaboration is particularly important in tackling exploitation and child labour, says Safia Minney, founder of fair trade fashion pioneer People Tree, managing director of Po-Zu and author of a forthcoming book Slave to Fashion. "While there is progress in mills and factories to reduce child labour, there is a long way to go," she says. "Each country has different laws about the age and hours a child under 18 can work, but these are largely ignored. NGOs and trade unions are essential to social dialogue."

Ms Minney proposes an advocacy role for companies, suggesting they use their influence.

"Mainstream fashion brands have a responsibility to put pressure on governments of developing nations to promote workers' rights," she says.

We are seeing greater levels of disclosure mainly because citizens are holding brands to account - transparency is becoming obligatory

According to Lotte Schuurman, of the Fair Wear Foundation, it is this ability to leverage buying power that could prove transformative. She says: "The purchasing practices of Western garment brands have a huge influence, positive or negative, on the lives of garment workers in clothing factories. Garment companies can use their economic influence to make an actual change."

In principle, procurement decisions could have not only reputational consequences but real beneficial impact on people and communities. In practice, though, results are mixed, says David Noble, group chief executive at the Chartered Institute of Procurement & Supply (CIPS). "Retailers confidently state their supply chains are free from malpractice. However, the sad fact is many still lack the basic procurement skills to even detect it, let alone prevent it," he says.

Performance might be patchy, but not for want of tools and training. The Ethical Trading Initiative was created as long ago as 1998 and its ETI base code, founded on ILO conventions, has become internationally recognised. The Sustainable Apparel Coalition launched the Higg Index in 2012, providing a suite of assessment tools, plus CIPS produced a guide to Ethical and Sustainable Procurement in 2013, with input from the Walk Free Foundation. In addition, 2017 should see publication of the long-awaited international standard for sustainable procurement, ISO 20400.
So, if the ethical call to action is getting louder and help available, why does progress remain slow?
Failure to turn good intentions into better practice is partly down simply to reluctance to allocate resources, argues chief executive of Segura Systems, Peter Needle. "Many retailers talk about ethical issues in supply chains and the need to address them, but when it comes to spending money to rectify problems, they are more reluctant," he says.

"The major problem for most is they have no control or visibility over what suppliers do on a day-to-day basis, so the system is still largely built on trust. The question is, 'If a factory is seen to be ethical on Monday, will it still be so on Friday?'"

One-off or periodic audit and mapping tools have been available for years. Moving from such point-in-time information on suppliers and factories to real-time actionable data is seen by Mr Needle as the investment game-changer. New technology solutions not only help monitor production live but also ensure approved sourcing.

As a provider of cloud-based supply chain technology, Segura already works with leading high street names. However, fashion is typically anything but fast when it comes to tech, which could ultimately prove critical, maybe even fatal. Mr Needle concludes. "Brands and retailers have been slow to adopt new technologies. If they remain so, there is a perfect storm brewing of consumer demand, NGO pressure, journalistic reporting and new agile, ethical competitors, that could see many of them go out of business, possibly much sooner than they think."

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Ethical issues remain in the fashion industry - Raconteur

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In April 2013, 1,134 people died in the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse in Dhaka. The ensuing Bangladesh Accord on safety notwithstanding, action on ethical issues endemic in fashion supply chains has since proved sluggish. Four years on and numerous sweatshop exposés later, fast fashion is making only slow progress.

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Un documentaire à voir d'urgence (VOSF)

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One moment please... Finding available download options.

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Documentaire Canadien (VO)

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A lot of our clothes bear the label 'Made in Bangladesh'. But before the deadly collapse of a garment factory there last April, most of us never thought about the people who make them. After clothes bound for Canada were found in the rubble of Rana Plaza, Canadian companies reacted with surprise - how could such a tragedy happen?

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Au coeur d'une tannerie Marocaine (VO)

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Fascinating World of Tanning Skins | National Geographic https://youtu.be/WmN_2VXY23M National Geographic

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The Foul, Fascinating World of Tanning Skins | National Geographic

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In a 600-year-old Moroccan tannery, a young apprentice braves stench, excrement and infection to learn the art of tanning skins. The process might be foul, but the results are supple and beautiful. ➡ Subscribe: http://bit.ly/NatGeoSubscribe About National Geographic: National Geographic is the world's premium destination for science, exploration, and adventure.

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News

Bruno Pieters, Brugeois à la carrière mode internationale, a choisi de sortir du système éprouvé (et éprouvant) de la production traditionnelle pour se lancer à corps perdu, mais âme regagnée, dans l'éthique. Pratique, esthétique... et logique.

Sorti diplômé de l'Académie d'Anvers en 99, il lisait déjà les magazines de sa mère quand il était gamin : " je regardais surtout les reportages sur les ateliers de haute couture. L' artisanat me fascinait. Depuis toujours, j'aime explorer les coulisses, plus encore que la création pure. A l'Académie, on se concentrait surtout sur le design. J'ai complété ma formation sur le terrain en travaillant chez Martin Margiela et Christian Lacroix, des gens portés sur l'artisanat. Et au fil du temps, j'ai observé des changements dans le métier. Des marques qui délocalisaient, mais vendaient leurs collections au même prix, et entretenaient leur image comme si de rien n'était. "

En 2009, il est nommé directeur artistique de Hugo, la ligne avant-gardiste d'Hugo Boss. Il défile à Berlin et à Paris, dessine 12 collections par an : homme, femme, accessoires, collections, pré-collections... " J'avais l'impression d'avoir fait le tour de mon métier, et je ne me reconnaissais plus dans l'industrie. Peut-être avais-je visé trop, avais-je placé trop d'attentes professionnelles, toujours est-il que je ne me sentais plus heureux. J'ai alors pris deux années sabbatiques, je suis parti en Inde. Là, je me suis recentré. Un jour à Delhi, j'ai aperçu une grande pancarte, qui portait une citation de Gandhi : " be the change you want to see in the world ". Avant, je n'étais pas prêt à l'entendre. Mais à ce moment de ma vie, le message est passé. Et au lieu de continuer à me plaindre que la mode est devenue malsaine ou malhonnête, au lieu d'être désabusé d'être devenu un businessman alors que j'avais fait des études pour être créateur, j'ai décidé de faire la mode que je voulais acheter. Une mode respectueuse pour tous les maillons de la chaîne, de l'idée du vêtement jusqu'au moment où l'acheteur l'accrocherait à un cintre. "

En 2013, Bruno Pieters a créé Honest By, une marque 100 % transparente, de mode minimaliste et sublimement coupée, cousue d'un filigrane d'esprit anversois. Tout est inscrit sur l' étiquette : la provenance du tissu, les étapes de fabrication, les données écologiques de tout le processus de production. Pour cet eco-designer, la transparence fait partie de la durabilité. Mais est-ce que la mode " durable " est économiquement " durable " ? " C'est un choix, pas une idéologie. Il faut que le produit plaise, et qu'il soit propre. L'éthique est un bonus, par un déclencheur d'achat. Le défi, c'est d'être sustainable et sexy à la fois. Il faut respecter la qualité et le design. Tout en restant à un niveau de prix juste. Oui, produire éthiquement est plus cher, alors que ce qui est cher n'est pas toujours produit éthiquement. Pour être honnête, il faut remonter toute la chaîne, jusqu'aux cultivateurs, et exiger de vérifier chaque certificat. " Cohérent aussi dans sa manière de penser des vêtements qui doivent se suivent et se compléter d'une saison à l'autre, Bruno fabrique des pièces toute l'année, au fur et à mesure des besoins de suivi d'une garde-robe, plutôt qu'en collections segmentées. Produire en petites quantités permet aussi cette forme de flexibilité.

Honest By ne travaille qu'avec GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), et tout est fabriqué en Belgique. Les étoffes sont tissées aux Pays-Bas ou en France avec certificat bio, le sportswear (hoodies et sweatshirts) sont assemblés en Allemagne. Les imprimés sont réalisés à Anvers. Pour Bruno Pieters, ce n'est qu'un début : " on commence à payer les conséquences de l'absence de conscience, même au niveau du luxe. Le coût environnemental et humain, notamment au niveau du travail des enfants, est effrayant. On ne peut plus ignorer ces problèmes qui abîment l'image de la mode et le plaisir de s'habiller. " Honest By conçoit aussi des pièces en cuir végétal, et n'utilise plus de produits issu des animaux, en dehors de la laine et la soie (et encore, de moins en moins). Le prix de ce parti pris ? De 97 € à 726 €. Le coût éthique ? Réduit au minimum.

" La pyramide de la mode, qui place le client à la pointe, se retrouve aujourd'hui face à une opportunité, et non une responsabilité de faire changer les choses ". Descendons quelques minutes du sommet de cette pyramide pour visiter sa première boutique à Anvers, Nationalestraat 91. A chaque fois qu'on achète un vêtement, quelles qu'aient été ses conditions de fabrication, on pèse dans la balance du monde dans lequel on choisit de vivre. Le plus Honestement possible.

16.01.2017
Ecrit par Elisabeth Clauss

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News Bruno Pieters, Brugeois à la carrière mode internationale, a choisi de sortir du système éprouvé (et éprouvant) de la production traditionnelle pour se lancer à corps perdu, mais âme regagnée, dans l'éthique. Pratique, esthétique... et logique.

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"Essentially different"

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Summer Staples

Discover the lighter essentials from The Permanent Collection

Our Promise

Zero Compromise Garments

We’re building a single permanent collection of a handful of timeless essentials, that you can count on for years - not a few washes. Revolutionary sizing, the purest materials, made in grade A European factories.

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Full Transparency

We unravel the journey, cost and impact of every garment - from farm to finish line - so you as an individual, and we as a business, can make fully informed decisions and better honor the clothing we otherwise take for granted.

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Lifecycle Responsibility

Our responsibility reaches from farm to end of life of a garment. We provide garment care products, care and repair programs and buy back your unwanted ASKET clothing for resale or recycling no matter its condition.

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ASKET - Zero Compromise Garments - Essentials Made To Last

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Meaningful essentials since 2015. Invest in timeless wardrobe essentials revolutionary sizing, fair pricing and ethical manufacturing. World wide home delivery.

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                                                                            ARTICLES

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                                      DOCUMENTAIRES

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                                                 SHOPPING RESPONSABLE

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(VF)

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Situé à la périphérie de Dhaka, la capitale du Bangladesh, Hazaribag est un bidonville géant où vivent et travaillent plus d'un million de personnes, forçats des tanneries bangladaises. Recensé parmi les trente sites les plus pollués de la planète, l'air, la terre et l'eau y sont gangrenés et regorgent de substances toxiques comme le chrome hexavalent, le mercure ou encore le cyanure.

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Des sous vêtements naturels et Made in France

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is a french lingerie brand made from wood

Lingerie made from pine, did you ever heard about it ?

Do You Green is the encounter of French chic and elegance with the natural pinewood super-power: an entire range of lingerie with a sensual-chic design made in our pinewood fibers' unique fabric in France and the finest Calais laces.

100% natural, 0% complexed
Welcome back your wild side.

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Lingerie made from pine, did you ever heard about it ? Do You Green is the encounter of French chic and elegance with the natural pinewood super-power: an entire range of lingerie with a sensual-chic design made in our pinewood fibers' unique fabric in France and the finest Calais laces.

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"Le tutoriel de réparation gratuit pour tout, écrit par tous"

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Les fibres et matériaux textiles qui se portent pour l'esthétique, la sécurité et se protéger des éléments. Clothing : manuels de diagnostic, de réparation et d'entretien.

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"Radical transparency"

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"Connected clothing"

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We reinterpret textile heritage into prints that tell stories of where and why they are made

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"A high quality product made in a fair way"

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Nudie Jeans® | 100% Organic Denim Collection

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Visit the official Nudie Jeans® Online Shop for the full Nudie Jeans Collection. Jeans, jackets & clothing. A high-quality product made in a fair way.

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"Elegant underwear you can feel good about wearing"

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Naja | Premium Lingerie with a Social Impact. Do-Good Underwear.

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Naja is a new lingerie company that makes beautifully designed underwear and bras. Naja helps educate and employ women, through our Underwear for Hope program.

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"Dress Healthy"

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Sustainable Women's Clothing and Accessories | Reformation

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Being naked is the #1 most sustainable option. Reformation is #2. We make sustainable clothing and accessories.

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"Responsible chic"

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Les Sublimes | French wardrobe essentials for cool girls who care

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We make French wardrobe essentials using the most beautiful eco luxe fabrics and the best ethical factories. Based in Paris.

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"Organic and recycled products"

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S M K was launched in August 2014 in Seoul, Korea. The brand creates feminine, elegant and casual clothes for women. Our items are to be comfortable, convenient and functional, either for daily life or sport activities especially dance which has always been a core influence in the design of the clothes.

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Des vêtements confortables pour tous les jours

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Stripes, silks, sweats and linen easywear, handmade at the little pink studio in Lincolnshire, UK.

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"Fashion for the future"

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P.i.C style is your consciously selected, contemporary capsule wardrobe. Featuring P.i.C and Partner brands. Pre-order now.

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"Les histoires que nous portons"

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Patagonia is a designer of outdoor clothing and gear for the silent sports: climbing, surfing, skiing and snowboarding, fly fishing, and trail running.

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"Preventing tires from polluting the environment"

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Indosole - Soles with Soul - Recycled tire footwear

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On a mission to become the most responsible footwear company in the world by delivering high-quality environmental footwear for travel, adventure & lifestyle.