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standing on shoulders - strength of their sense of community

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standing on shoulders - strength of their sense of community

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Tourism website portrays Spain very generally – (‘discovering Catalonia from Barcelona’) - Catalonia just seems like another place in Spain rather than its own unique region

Website doesn’t portray the same ‘powerful statement of identity and difference’ in individual  regions

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Interactive map promotes regionality

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- not emphasising Spains traditions or history (as compared to reading a)
- rather, cosmopolitan, modern, inclusive, fun.
- perhaps speaking to ideas of Spain as being a 'traditional' place - also targeting what is probably Spains largest tourist group, tourists after a beach/sun holiday

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Focus on major cities primarily

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Catalonian food described as 'indestructible', inferencing the 'resilience' and determination central to the movement towards independence from Spain. pg 234

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Interesting the concept of the nation being defined by the cuisine rather than internationally recognised borders - Catalan National cuisine

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-food can restore people back to 'sanity', maybe as a kind of escapism?
-catalan cuisine looks outwards to the rest of Europe rather than back towards Spain. This helps them to distinguish themselves as their own 'nation'.
This may be for historico-political reasons - under Franco Catalonia was perhaps more repressed than other nations. Do they accept the influence of other cuisines more because they don't share the same complex history with these cuisines that they do with Spanish cuisines?

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Pushing a progressive agenda, 'spain for LGBT'

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-Below the video it reads 'The legacy of other civilisations, the climate, the landscape and traditions are all present in Catalan cuisine.' suggesting that Catalonian cuisine is a product of not only what is cooked throughout the region, but what has been cooked and eaten throughout history
-The video at first glance seems to focus more on the culture and light displays than the food itself. However it a possible that the cultural displays within the video are ultimately a wider celebration of the food in the markets.

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Both articles have a heavy emphasis on Catalonia having its own individual identity; it comes across as less of a region and more of an independent state, which obviously makes sense in light of Catalonia's recent bid for independence from Spain.

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- A lot of emphasis is placed on tradition
- Adhering to past culture

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Seems like this reading is emphasising Catalonia's differences whereas the tourism website kind of groups all of the regions together. They are different to other regions, but this difference is similar to every other region being different.

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"In the past, cooks and their dishes were constrained by many factors: the limited availability of ingredients and ways of transforming them, limited understanding of cooking processes, and the necessity of narrow definitions and expectations embodied in local tradition. Today there are fewer constraints, and the tremendous potential for the progress of our craft."

Interesting that food was treated simultaneously as an art from but not afforded the creative nature of other art forms.

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Like the Basque country, Catalonians looked to their ancient history to rediscover their cuisine and culture.

As in Italy, the fat one choose to use in their cooking was telling, the coastal areas used olive oil whilst lard was used for inland dwellers.

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Interestingly, the Catalans have been able to maintain a sense of traditionally in their cuisine whilst also enjoying exotic foreign meals. The Catalans seem less concerned with the idea that their cuisine is best and are seemingly more open to learning and adapting different gastronomic practices into their food. Likewise they are interested in enjoying different foods as well as eating them.

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Interesting how Catalan, like the basque country, looked back in their ancient history to rediscover their cuisine and culture.

And like italy, the type of fats used in their cooking was telling, olive oil for citizens of the mediterranean coast or lard for more inland dwellers.

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Funny interface

There's so much information it's kinda overwhelming

- Drop down bar for regional cuisines - text encourages you to seek out info on regional cuisines

- Drop down bar for curated experiences on your spanish holiday: family, young people, LGTB(??)

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Why is Spain's official tourism website so aesthetically displeasing ?

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Are we supposed to analyse the whole website ?

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Why is this a reading ?

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-An interesting reflection on the offical interpretation of Catalonian culture
-Does not acknowledge contemporary cosmopolitanism and innovation in Catalonian cuis

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- Catalans use both their cuisine and their language to differentiate themselves and their culture.
- Food is a symbolic representation of identity and culture
- Catalonia is seen as a 'two-way street': Greek, Roman and Arab foodstuffs all came to Europe through Catalonia, and it also acted as the gateway for products to be distributed throughout the Mediterranean
- Food, like a language, articulates a notion of inclusion and exclusion, of national pride and xenophobia
- the symbolic importance of keeping a traditional cuisine also facilitates a 'powerful statement of identity and difference'

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-  relating to my own experience, most asian cuisines are heavily dependent on passing of recipes through generations rather than codification, which seems to be the central concept in Catalan cuisine also

- It also seems that it is a regional cuisine that offers a taste of local foods which is also common to my homeland.;

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- the clip shows a strong pride in traditional cultural activities and food
- it makes me think of my two Catalan friends who have always exhibited extreme pride in Catalan culture and history and food, often baking Catalan desserts for people to try. They also often complained that you could not get the same quality fruit and vegetable as you could in Catalonia.

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- how they call many regions which extend from the city hub 'regional' to Spain and thus create or emphasise the distinction between them and city Spain

- Madrid and Barcelona are the only specified 'cities' or places which aren't vaguely referenced - creating a forced splitting of the areas despite being part of the country - clearly the divide continues to be emphasised not purely through cuisine

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Gastronomy page highlighting regional variance both in text, and with the addition of a map. Each region has an individual page discussing food highlights, as well as geographical situation, climate, culture and history - indicating a national pride in the relationship between food and place.

Even on the region-specific pages (not from the gastronomy thread), food is still featured as a tourist attraction. Eg on the Barcelona page "Tradition and modernity can also be seen in its innovative and imaginative gastronomy, based on fresh garden produce, fresh fish, a wide variety of sausages and olive oil. Traditional handmade cakes and pastries and sparkling wines are some of the other highlights in this brief overview of Barcelona's gastronomic culture."

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A brief blurb and video advertising the 'Festes i Mercats' (Festival of markets-?-)

The video shows only 20 seconds of food, before moving onto culture showing what appears to be a very 'uniting' sequence of activities all with what we can assume to be historical importance in Catalan history.

The video and the blurb highlight the role of cuisine in the Calatan identity as well as its importance in linking historical Catalonia to post dictatorship Catalonia to 21st century Catalonia.

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Food and recipes at the top of the page - trying to entice using food "want a taste?"

Clicking on that link takes to a few famous recipes with familiarity such as Paella, Spanish Omelette, Churros, Gazpacho

Then suggests you go to the "Gastronomy" section "You'll be able to discover the exquisite and typical dishes of each area, the famous miniature canapés known as 'pintxos', some of the best wines in the world, and an avant-garde cuisine."
Definitely markets food as a selling point of Spain.

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clearly this website and the articles within it are to increase tourism and presents Catalan as this intensely beautiful and historically rich region.

is this an accurate picture of Catalan or just the highlights reel?

does this properly represent modern Catalan and the foodscape?

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Many of their featured recipes are those that are also well-known outside of Spain. e.g. paella, spanish omelette.
Is this an accurate representation of what tourists will experience when they go there?
Is this necessarily the best marketing to many young tourists who may be wanting to go to go 'off the beaten track'?
They present both recognisable and less recognisable spanish dishes - Are they trying to attract tourists via the 'fold' strategy?
Layout:
cuisine is a top feature- is this because they feel it is underrepresented internationally and are trying to promote it?

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‘‘The food is French, the techniques are French, the way
of eating is French, and the produce is very French — aside from all the
un-French sour and spicy ingredients.’’
^Interesting to think about this attitude within France and the mixing of cuisines / cultures, and then to think about it outside of France. Are we allowed to say such a thing in Australian restaurants that take on a translation of French cuisine?

"As Paris begins to decolonize its attitude (culinary and
otherwise), there’s a sense of pride in the way different cultures are finding a
legitimate place in mainstream food."

What does decolonising food / food culture and practice look like?

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Adam Gollner, a Canadian writer and musician informs us about the new wave of cuisine emerging in Paris. Highlights the diversity of food that is available, which is reflective of the multiculturalism present in the city today.

Mentions that previously, although Nouvelle cuisine was known for being innovative and new, it rarely sought influences from foreign cuisine. Today, often food places will have a combination of different techniques from different culinary backgrounds. This mix of multiculturalism and , Gollner argues is the new type of Nouvelle Cuisine that is starting to make its mark in French cuisine

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What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn? (conchita) 

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What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn? (conchita) 

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I found it interesting that throughout this piece that refers to ' Nouvelle Cuisine', the food is always considered as being french with a twist, but at what point does it become another cuisine?

The writer doesn't specify where the line should be drawn so it's open to interpretation and based on what the restaurants claims, however as desserts of strawberries topped with mukhwas (an Indian mix of fennel seeds and candied spices which originally is meant  to help digest food) come about, I question what French basis it has and how has it adapted to claim that is 'Nouvelle Cuisine' and not just garnished fruit.

From my interpretation the author is subtly expressing that it does seem disjointed that these restaurants claim to be Nouvelle Cuisine, but expressed that although the food may not seem french in terms of produce and preparation, its the ideas that make it french, the fact that it is refreshing and innovative. I found this to be interesting as he is broadening the scope on how we define food to be authentic to a country.

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what questions remain for you? with which point to you disagree?

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what questions remain for you? with which point to you disagree?

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Gollner presents Paris as being culinarily multicultural for many year, since at least the 90s, he even goes on to say that because he was open to these cuisine then therefore so was Paris. i have an issue making generalisations like that especially as we have come to learn that the French are very protective of their own cuisine and food culture. It seems more likely that originally the places Gollner spoke of in the 90s was creating food for those of the same background and nationality, whereas now with the the newest wave of modern restaurants it appears their is more of a integration of their cuisine into the french food scene. Gollner also alludes to that because there was the presence of other cuisines that by default it meant that France was more accepting and harmonious culturally speaking. however, from the Anderson and Benbow reading we know that this can actual disguise a type of racism.
How reliable a picture does this present of both the 1990s french food scene and the present food scene?
Has the decolonisation of strict culinary attitudes been successful? Are they simply being remodelled, ie Bistronomie

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Relation to own knowledge and experience

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Relation to own knowledge and experience

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-Similar to France, mid-late C20th migrants to Australia brought with them food that was “foreign” in its deviation from our “traditional meat and three veg”.

-Just as contemporary French cuisine is slowly starting to reap the benefits of pluraliste food through its integration with migrant cuisines, the Australian culinary landscape found its quality and character in its embracing of multiculturalism.

-Unlike in France, Australia is relatively free of a strict, codified culinary tradition and was, therefore, more open to embracing foreign foods.

-The pride that France is just beginning to feel in its integration of immigrant food into mainstream cuisine is one that has been central to Australia’s culinary identity for the last few decades.

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Thoughts and ideas

It is really interesting to observe what seems to be a clear contrast between a withering traditional french cuisine, which historically is considered "sophisticated" and worthy of french chefs, and the emerging embracement of expat chefs.

what is changing is that this food movement is being led from the dining room not the kitchen and therefore what we are seeing is french food is becoming more adapted to the worlds culture. The young people driving this new food movement seek a sense of adventurousness and fun that prevails in other international cities like New York

the tail end of the reading shares many examples of successful restaurants which are only relevant because of their stories across international contexts.

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- the gastronomic meal of the French is a traditional, festive meal style used to celebrate happy occasions such as birthdays,  weddings, anniversaries and reunions.
- the meal is very structured, consisting of aperitifs, a starter, a fish or meat dish as a main, cheese and finally dessert, with wine paired with each course
- it's a highly ritualised affair - specific process of folding napkins, dressing the table and decanting wines
- Intended to draw people together and strengthen social ties
- 95% of French people consider the gastronomic meal an essential part of their shared heritage and cultural identity
- choosing the best products to cook, sharing the cooking and dressing the table are considered key pleasures in the process
- shopping for the food is a chance to share knowledge
- includes dishes from other cultures and celebrates diversity
- for many the process promotes curiosity and exploration of the process of cooking

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- Some of the most notable chefs of French cuisine are not actually French

- French cuisine seems to be the most inspiring in terms of the number of young chefs attempting to master such a cuisine

- Traditional French Cuisine is decreasing in popularity - shift to more modern interpretations of French Cuisine. We see modern touches of cuisine here in Melbourne

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This article covers the evolution of the food scene in Paris

- In 2013 as many as 70% of French restaurants were found to be using ready made food, produced on an industrial scale

- Foreign young chefs are driving the new wave of the French cuisine.

- These chefs are cooking French food.

- Embracing of non French food such as American burgers from food trucks.

- Control is moving from the traditional and Michelin to young restaurant goers, who now have the power to reshape the food landscape.

- "French cuisine no longer belongs exclusively to the French"

- Food can be made with French produce, in France, and not explicitly be French food, but a new adaptation of French food.

- Japanese chefs are well adapt at cooking French cuisine as both focus on seasonality and terroir. There was around 2 dozen Japanese run French restaurants at the time of this article

Titled "who can save French food" the answer is obvious; the young

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A brief blurb emphasising the importance of cuisine in Catalonia, and its significance as a cultural anchor throughout generations, accompanied by a video advertising the 'Festes i Mercats' (Festival of Markets -?-). The video features 20 seconds of images of fresh food and market stalls before moving onto cultural activities, showing that the festival is just as much about food as it is cultural.

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- emphasis on local and regional produce being used, with farmers input

- The notion of 'traditional' cuisine patterns, utensils and or recipes which feature throughout in the argument to support authenticity

- relationship between Cuisine, time and identity being formed

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Foreign ingredients, techniques, and dishes are finally starting to make their way into French chefs' repertoires.
They're finally starting to recognise the multi-culturalism of Paris and France through incorporating foreign influences into their cuisine.
"a decolonisation of French attitude (culinary and otherwise)"

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Available to read in many languages - enticing tourists from anywhere
"Spain is what you want. Spain is what you need".
Right up the top of the website is them advertising the Spanish cuisine.        - Does that mean the cuisine is Spain's best feature? Or most recognisable feature?
Wine tourism is also featured on the side bar  - again food (and wine) is very important to their identity as a country
All the recipes they show are mostly easily identifiable. Not necessarily their best recipes but their most famous instead. It seems they're trying to relate to what foreigners to Spain already know more than introducing 'exotic' or new things.
Culture is also something that is definitely emphasised as well as food

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-Ferguson suggests that “recipies reach beyond practice to a vision of good food and the good life associated with that food. These sentiments I think are in line with many modern food blogs which often go beyond simple recipes to promote particular desirable lifestyles. Even in TV ads for supermarkets we see celebrity chefs making meals surrounded by an idyllic Australian family setting.

-When discussing Pampille’s cookbook, Ferguson notes her emphasis on national food that are shared by “peasant and bourgeois alike”. I find this true with many contemporary quintessential Australia meals. Just as “The ‘poor fisherman’ on the Meditterranean coast prepares bouillabaisse quite as well as the ‘cleverest Marseilles chef’, so too can a tradie from rural Australia lay claim to being able to barbeque a sausage just as well as Curtis Stone.

-Despite the fact that traditionally and still today the authenticity of Melbourne’s international cuisines came from our many migrant chefs, more and more I think Melbourne is a good example of the suggestion that authenticity in food can be achieved as long as you “keep your feet planted in [traditional] techniques”.

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What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

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What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

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I found it interesting how incredibly well France has marketed their cuisine, that to this day it is regarded as highly sophisticated and has reached all parts of the world.

In addition, in the reading it described how ingredients used for each dish is representative of the landscape it is taken from, creating a miniature landscape on the plate, this expresses the richness of the cuisine in France that they pay such attention to detail, treating food as if it is a poetic story that ought to be shared.

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• What other crops were effected in the transition from substinance agriculture to coffee exports

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Reflecting on the classical Italian diet, the lack of protein was something that worried me immensely. El Gallo being literally half protein (and half carbs) is an interesting distinction in Costa Rica's national dish. Granted the foodscapes of Italy and Costa Rica are vastly different, but I feel the priority in both these dishes differs in more than origin or availability. Italian cuisine at it's core doesn't seem to focus on nutrition as much as perhaps elegance. While Costa Rica's El Gallo is simple and effective in delivering sustenance, without a necessary focus on aesthetic.

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- The idea of cookbooks as a vessel for inter-class communication and understanding, as opposed to a strictly regional intervention. "Cookbooks allow women from one group to be represented to another."
- "The push of ambitious husbands to display the metropolitan culinary ranges of their wives"
- The concept of economic frugality and time efficiency as prevalent emerging appeals in cook books, despite the nature of showmanship/pride that seems to accompany the preparation of regional cuisines in interethnic or inter-caste social contexts.
- Following from this, the consumption of leftovers as a form of moral degradation, and the attempted subversion of this in new and 'innovative' methodologies found in cookbooks. Aspects of creativity and resourcefulness beginning to cancel out potential 'loss of status' that could occur from eating/using leftovers.
- Distinct lack of 'significant textual corpus on cuisine'. Is this a reason that modern divergence from/subversion of tradition is viable?

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What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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- This reading gives rise to the idea that cookbooks indeed have an influence on the concept of Culinary Nationalism. The suggestion that recipes serve as a "primary indicator of identity" indicates how valuable cookbooks are towards the national identity

- It raises ideas that national cuisine acts as a "defender of tradition" within a nation, which ultimately  triggers national pride and patriotism

- This reading highlights the importance of national identity through the forms of tradition. The modernised world of today can indeed saturate the market for authentic food,  and Parkhurst-Ferguson builds upon the term "authenticity" as a marker for national identity

- Therefore, it is imperative that nations must integrate both innovation and tradition in national cuisine. We see this today in many 'fusion' style cuisines, where tradition meets innovation. This style of cuisine could possibly gain popularity through its ability to keep up with the progressing tastes of the world.

- Raises questions of fluidity and identity

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Ellie - What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

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Ellie - What questions remain for you; with which points do you disagree?

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"Yet these high cuisines, with their emphasis on spectacle, disguise, and display, always seek to distance themselves from their local sources". I'm not sure that this is true, particularly not in the cases of Spain and Italy which celebrate regional diversity? The author mentions China and Italy but as distinct exceptions, whereas I feel there would be more.

Also, is this still true of France's haute cuisine today? Are regional culinary areas of France not celebrated? The wine regions certainly are…

"Like the cooking of ancient and early-medieval Europe, preindustrial China, and the precolonial Middle East, cooking in India is deeply embedded in moral and medical beliefs and prescriptions." What does this mean exactly, and how is this present in medieval European cuisine?

Why the proliferation of English-speakers and English-language materials in India, and why has this become a defining factor of the middle to upper-middle class? Globalisation?

Is it possible that perhaps the quest for codification of a national cuisine is less prevalent or apparent in India's history because it was less vital for creating a sense of national identity? Is it that India's national/culture identity was strong enough without needing to put particular emphasis on a national cuisine? Did they perhaps have other cultural avenues for overcoming their history of British colonialism?

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-France is a unique example of culinary nationalism, where unification happened without many hiccups.
-France exported their cuisine very well. This is how it has maintained its reputation. MOF collar is an example (Meilleur Ouvrier de France)
-Les Bons Plats de France by Pampille (a female writer) does not claim ownership over the french cuisine but rather as its defender (potentially because of her gender). She presents that french cooking is the daily diet, what is ordinary and mundane rather than the "extravagant creations of the celebrated male chefs" p102.
-Every ingredient used for a dish represents the region that it comes from. It is said to encompass a 'miniture landscape'. The dish as a whole also presents that same landscape.
-Pampille is adamant that the dish needs to be cooked and eaten in the place where the ingredients are caught or cultivated to properly enjoy the dish, only then is it authentic. She goes so far to say that infact that you yourself need to be from that region also to enjoy it properly.
-Cook books shape the discourse around the cuisine and dictate to the reader what to eat, how it should be prepared and how it should be consumed. Furthermore, to be successful these cookbooks need to be well written and good to read.
-Culinary nationalism is present among all political factions. It is present in today's world, yet is works in different ways thanks to transport and technology.
-Culinary distinctions is a marker of identity in a globalised world. The greater the distance from the origin of the good, the greater the likelihood we are to associate it with its origin.
-The larger the difference our cuisine is to the foreign cuisine the more we are to dislike it. We automatically like the familiar.

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Cookbooks combine practical methodology and emotional/pleasurable aspects of cooking. Their existence requires a literate population as well as a standardised procedure from market to table. Cookbooks also represent social schemes, class and hierarchy. Cookbooks are an important indicator of the “Civilizing process”.

In recent history (the 1960s onwards) a cookbook boom has been observed in India, especially cookbooks written in English for an English speaking readership. These cookbooks are riddled with issues of language and literacy, cities and ethnicity, women and domesticity.

Unlike other cultures with the concept of “high cuisine” in Europe, China and the middle east, Indian cookbooks do not seek to distance themselves from local and ethnic sources – “regional cuisines are Haute Cuisines”

The new Indian cookbooks are fuelled by the rise of print and the rise of the Indian middle class – the main audience and the authors are middle-class urban women. The new Indian middle class is a culturally, ethnically and regionally diverse class, therefore, cutting across old caste, ethnic and regional boundaries and even encouraging cross caste dining experiences

Modern Indian national cuisine is a fusion of medieval Mughlai cuisine (Arab empire) – often recognised globally as “Indian food “although only coming from the north and west of India – regional indigenous Indian cuisine and colonial cuisine (lesser extent).  “Cuisine does not develop out of the cooking traditions of a single region” therefore the authentic Indian cuisine must incorporate multiple special types of food from all regions of India.

The diversification of cuisine can put pressure on the women with an expectation from family and society that traditional skills and cooking will be kept up in addition to an expansion of skills and knowledge to incorporate modern diversity and exploration of unfamiliar regional foods. Cookbooks seek to turn this task into a more enjoyable one than a demanding process for women.

The middle class is diverse, including the very rich down to those who struggle to afford to belong to it. Therefore, economy and frugality is an increasingly common theme amongst the cookbooks – including the incorporation of leftovers - as well as the dominant values of authenticity, attractiveness and nutritional value.

In traditional Hindu culture, eating and feeding are a focus of multiple texts however cooking is traditionally omitted.

Cookbooks written by insiders tend to be authentic and include region-specific/difficult items whereas those written by outsiders include easier and more portable examples of cuisine.

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What thoughts, ideas and examples does the reading trigger for you ? 

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What thoughts, ideas and examples does the reading trigger for you ? 

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Ferguson's article on 'Culinary Nationalism', is personally evocative of a strong anti-mondialist sentiment.

Far from our production and consumption of food today ; where origins are vague and we are merely informed that what we are shovelling into our mouths as we run to class is "made in the European Union" or "produce of Australia" ; where only one orality remains; where the food chain begins at the supermarket and finishes on our plates.  As with other goods, the producer has been entirely isolated from the consumer. Whilst certain 'movements' are actively rebelling against this reality, the late 20th and 21st century relationship with food has lost  profundity. Without history; without story ; without culinary nationalism, or a the very least culinary regionalism ; a human digging into their favourite dish is no different from a dog 'wolfing down' a bowl of meaty bites.

Ferguson's brief article summarises precisely the narrative necessary to the human relationship with food... She elaborates on more abstract aspects of cuisine, such as "tastes and foods and places and how they fit together"... This includes the history of any given dish (produce, recipe, cook) and the future of a dish (replication, orality - being eaten, being 'told'). This all holding increased importance in national identity as borders blur and 'efficiency and growth' become the international ethos.

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What thoughts, ideas, examples do the reading trigger for you?

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What thoughts, ideas, examples do the reading trigger for you?

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Double Orality

-   Pampille’s book, Les Bons Plats de France: cuisine régionale, shows the importance of talking (reading) about food in forming a culinary country. In her recipes she states that only a few people could truly and genuinely enjoy certain regional dishes. The point of her book is to create an ideology of the regions, giving a home to the dishes, rather than the dishes itself.

Culinary country and culinary identity

-   Aren’t necessarily the same things. We could form our own notions as to what makes up a country’s cuisine but inevitably everyone is going to have different experiences with food. Doesn’t make either any less justified, both exist simultaneously, e.g. imagined community and banal nationalism

Regionality into Nationality – Importance of the land

-   The central readings about Italy and Spain mention the unification of their respective nations based on celebrating/highlighting the different regional cuisines the country has to offer. The association of cuisine, food and produce to the land plays an important role in creating a national image

-   Appellations d’origine controlees: Certifications which stress the importance of region and land

HOWEVER, does a dish and its ingredients have to hail from that specific land/region/country to be considered truly representative of a nation? Truly authentic?

-   Many nations that consider themselves a 'culinary country' raise this question. Nobu Matsushisa, on Japanese cuisine: “So long as you keep your feet planted in the techniques of Japanese cookery, new Japanese dishes can be created anywhere in the world”

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- describes functions of cookbooks and how they are representations of 'class and hierarchy'
- APPADURAI uses Indian cookbooks from the last two decades to reveal their historical/contextual influence/issues surrounding the development of a national cuisine in contemporary society e.g. 'language and literacy, cities and ethnicity, women and domesticity'
- 'we need to view cookbooks in the contemporary world as revealing artifacts of culture in the making'
- criticises the divide between high cuisines and low cuisines. Whilst France's national cuisine is the epitome of high (haute cuisine), Italy and China's national cuisine are more representative of the regions - 'regional cuisines are the hautes cuisines' - cuisines less hierarchical
- Why is India unique? India's culinary realm and its codification are poorly developed - written by a postindustrial and postcoloinial middle class who a constructing a polyglot culture - as distinct from France whose literature is emblematic of the aristocracy
- historically there was little interest in gastronomic issues
-India's developing cuisine shows a processual model. Features: twin processes of regional and ethnic specialisation AND the development of overarching, crosscutting national cuisines
- Indian cuisine is regional and ethnic
- Indian cookbooks are also specialised for the 'culinary other' e.g. eating alone, vegetarian, working woman
- women recognised for their role in the development of the cuisine

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What questions remain for you, with which points do you disagree?

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What questions remain for you, with which points do you disagree?

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- The hyper modest stance that 'Pampille' takes in her writing. I wonder if this can be read as an indication of the way that a female chef/writer must present herself in order to become popular. She emphasises that she did not invent any of these recipes, rather she is only relaying ones she has heard of from other people. It could be that staking a claim in the recipes, owning them, is more acceptable from male chefs - especially in the period that she was writing.

- the author talks about our "aggressively modern culinary world". Is that always the case? I myself have noticed a trend towards more traditional, home style meals of late. Although, maybe that is still modern - in that by turning back to traditional foods, cooks are creating a new trend, a new context for those foods to be eaten in.

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It is important to note that cookbooks that include many different regional cuisines are not 'replicas of oral repertoires'. There is always a lot of editing - the authors may only use the most 'portable' and palatable recipes to outsiders. Are compiled cookbooks necessary an accurate reflection of regional differences?

How will this new modernisation and emphasis on time and cost efficiency of food that is occurring in urban middle-class affect traditional aspects? (such as moral and medical implications - e.g. there are traditional prohibitions about eating leftovers)
(Sadie)

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-It is interesting that the Indian Hindu cuisine was not codified when so many other aspects of society and culture were.

-Indian food can now be celebrated from a purely gustatory approach without the constraints of moral and medical implications

-Women in India have dual pressures - they must try to please older relatives who are more conservative in their food preferences but they must also deal with the expectation of modernising and diversifying their cooking to conform with changing times and a more multiethnic society.

-'we need to view cookbooks in the contemporary world as revealing artifacts of culture in the making' - this speaks to the idea of 'books not cooks' forming the national cuisine (Parkhurst Ferguson)
(Sadie)

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- The persepctive of the cookbook written by Pampille (Marthe Allard Daudet). As she attributes her desire to maintain the traditions rather than invent a variation on the national cuisne to her being a woman.

- Lyon holds a biannial cook off called the Bocuse d'Or. This is the equivalent of a culinary Olympics.

- The concept of what makes a food truly belong to a nation, is it the techniques used, the iconic ingredients, the location of its creation?

- That these aspects create an 'imagined community', where even internationally certain foods are classified as the food from one nation.

-How food and tastes spread, in that that people adapt to foreign foods more readily when there are elements of familiarity

- The article uses the film Le Grand Chef a Korean cooking drama to demonstrate culinary nationalism. That ultimately the winner was not the one who made the most elaborate dish, but the chef who used simple ingredients each with a deep history within the nation. This winning attribute only recognised by a foreigner.

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'Foods do not have an intrinsic significance; they are assigned by individuals, and therefore it is impossible to analyze changes in patterns of consumption without considering their social context.'

-gallo pinto is a result of hybridising culture, with the rice being introduced by spaniards and eventually adopted by Mestizos
- the expansion of coffee growing meant less room for their usual staples (corn/grain) but didn't effect rice
- rice came into the diet of the country when chinese, italian and afro-carribeans came to work on the railroads
- gallo pinto means spotted rooster, it's named so because it's black and white but also because that rooster is believed to be the best in cockfights, and the food combo the best in tortillas
- gallo pinto could be used to identify rich from poor, worker from boss, slave from freeperson
- although politicians and elites envisioned costa rica to be a more 'european/white' country, there was no stopping the success of gallo pinto as identity from cuisine comes from bottom up

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Again the middle class are the general audience and consumers of cookbooks

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This article talks about how Indian cookbooks (especially those in English) have been generally written and consumed by middle class women since the 1960s. This is somewhat different to what we've been studying - in Haute Cuisine for example, professional cooking is a very male dominated field. "Cookbooks are an important part of the female world of this growing urban middle class. "
The article also states that a function of the cookbooks were to make cooking a "pleasant adventure rather than a tiring grind" --> Is that still true today? Is the purpose of cookbooks making cooking fun?

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- role which codification played in the establishment of cuisine and or cultural identity through food and ownership of styles, flavours

- establishing a nationalism to cuisine (despite regionality) creating a unified front

- bridging social classes through food to create equal platforms for the opportunity for cuisine to be available by the masses

- connecting place, produce and meals together - importance of origin, regionality

- role which social constructs of 'authentic, representative etc' play in informing nationalistic views on certain meals - role which specified rules, codes, hierarchies play in structuring cuisine and nationalistic views on cuisine

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very interesting how gender divisions played out during the revolution period. very much a male monarchy/environment

Women’s access to education, capital for entrepreneurial investment and employment found increased restriction due to this ideology of feminine domesticity, rather than the patriarchal structure of the guild which had limited but never eliminated women’s participation in the production and service of food. Culinary discourse particularly with women therefore is depicted quite static or unreflective of womens knowledge. This encouraged a push in feminism

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Monarchy = cooking is amale domain - CHEFS in the public sphere ( public regard, authority, dominance as provider for the masses )

Post Rev = push for more female participation but abolition of Guilds + "ideology of feminine domesticity" = push for women to take on more tasks in the home (private sphere) as COOKS

Is this dichotomy still a reality in France today ? Can we differentiate Republicans and Monarchists in French society based on their religious affiliations, moral views, political opinion ? Not necessarily in regards to cuisine but gender roles in general ? Ie. Monarchists tend to be catholic and consider a more traditional role of women in the family ..?

Beyond gender...

Cuisine called for more equity in French society. Careme, despite his popularity the esteem deemed upon him by the royals identified with the working class...

The meals themselves being a union of luxurious and humble dishes... and ingredients... ie truffles on toast, the former being luxurious, the latter being, excepting throughout the years the years leading up to the revolution, almost a fundamental right in France. LOL BAGUETTE

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Alexandre-Balthazar-Laurent Grimod de La Reynière  was born into nobility.

In his adult life Grimod loved to dine, frequented theaters, and generally live a "louche" lifestyle.

Grimod's first great evening came in the form of a "funeral supper" where he hosted a dinner party themed as a funeral. This event pointedly insulted his own family, mocked tradition, and questioned social hierarchies through his discussion and the dishes presented.

The Revolution created nouveaux riches bourgeois and left Grimod considerably less wealthy. Grimod noticed the lack of knowledge of literature and gastronomy in the new upper class and decided to lend his great expertise. Grimod has released 8 volumes of introduction to every aspect French fine dining.

These books changed French food tradition forever - presenting the idea of serving food in courses instead of all together at once, for the first time.

It seems at odds that Grimod is said to question social hierarchies, yet banish slaves from his dining room "ostensibly to allow uncensored discussion of the foods".

Grimod discussion of food was often highly political, he likewise used food itself as a form of discussion - about society, etc.

This ties to this class, and how we are analysing food/cuisine as something that speaks, about history, etc.

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-Escoffier's emphasis on cooking as an exact process that ought to remain as simple as possible is quite at odds with the notions of nostalgia and memory in food.
-The benefit of Escoffier's style is the way it saw French cuisine become more readily accessible to a much wider audience and revolutionised the restaurant business through its focus on precision. A problem with this approach however is it turns cooking away from art and towards a science with his style perhaps more at home in Haute Cuisine's "main kitchen" than Hortense's "private kitchen".

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HOW DOES THE CONTENT RELATE TO YOUR OWN KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE

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HOW DOES THE CONTENT RELATE TO YOUR OWN KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE

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In 'The Birth of the Recipe' we see that Escoffier was essentially the founding father of recipe in a written form and the formation of a structured style of cooking, where many people could come together like cogs in a machine, working independently to create something together.

From my knowledge, this is a common practice in industrial kitchens almost everywhere, where a hierarchy exists with a head chef, sous chef and kitchen hands.

In terms of my own experience, as someone from a mixed cultural background, recipes aren't the same as being physically shown how to cook, and majority of the time it is more about the feel, smell and taste that would dictate what you may add to the dish rather than a structured recipe, this differs with each culture of course. French cuisine seems to be one that enjoys learning from books as evident in the film Haute Cuisine as well, where the president talks so fondly of recipe books.

(conchita)

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HOW DOES THE CONTENT RELATE TO YOUR OWN KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE 

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HOW DOES THE CONTENT RELATE TO YOUR OWN KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE 

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- One would think that the market for preparing and cooking food would be more inclusive of both genders, however this was not the case.

- Men dominated in the area of public cooking, and the destruction of these guilds did not result in the inclusion of female cooks in the market.

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-       Rebellion against aristocratic background

-       Used aristocratic experience of food post-revolution – continued tradition of fine dining

-       Didn’t like post-rev wave of bourgeois and proletariats partaking in activities once reserved to high society members

-       Wrote a book to educate the masses in fine dining

-        Grimod acted as a cultural bridge -  being shunned by aristocratic family pre-revolution, but kept traditions of fine dining in place post-revolution

-       Did he do so out of respect for food/culture? or due to his perception of a lack of respect/knowledge the bourgeoisie and proletariat had while engaged in fine dining and culture?

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interesting role of women during the war, transition through food

Madame Merigot equated  republican virtue with thrift and instructed good female citizens to do their political duty through cooking potatoes

interesting transition of the role of the consumer

cooking = duty

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What questions remain for you; with which do you disagree?

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What questions remain for you; with which do you disagree?

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- what would a contemporary version of this dark supper be like? what kind of food would they serve?

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The Birth of the Recipe: Auguste Escoffier

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The Birth of the Recipe: Auguste Escoffier

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(Joy)
Novel/Interesting Points:

-    Escoffier was the one to create the Brigade system (Brigade de cuisine) in the kitchen. This hierarchy of chefs, cooks and kitchens staff is what we typically in restaurants today.  Though during his time this type of organisation was unheard of.

-     The people in this video see Escoffier as the first to establish an organised system/methodology to the kitchen; “He was the first to canonize everything”. Yet, Escoffier attributes this quality to the works Carême, of which Escoffier's ideas were based around: “ (Escoffier) declared flatly that “the fundamental principles of the science [of cooking], which we owe to Carême…will last as long as Cooking itself.””, “The rational presentation of culinary preparations as a system of interconnected parts that built on a singular base of fundamental principles—those principles that Escoffier claimed French cuisine owed to Carême” (p.42,47 Parkhurst Ferguson).

-   Although Carême sought to make cuisine more simplistic (relative to the Ancien Regime), his approach would be considered extravagant in today's attitudes. Therefore we could say that Escoffier's new style is one more suited to modern times, as we see it's lasting presence in the cuisine world. Another point showing that cuisine (food preparation, rules and etiquette) is dynamic and always changing.

- Carême modernizing from Ancient Regime, Escoffier modernizing from Carême. These french figures at the forefront of modern cuisine. This may be why even up until today, the French and French cuisine is perceived as the benchmark of quality.

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Ellie - What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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Ellie - What thoughts, ideas, examples does the reading trigger for you?

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First line immediately made me think of the Woody Allen film Midnight In Paris - famous artists, writers and philosophers gathering in Paris bars and homes

Grimod being enigmatic and fascinating draws parallels to Pellegrino Artusi and his original, eclectic approach to his book.

The Grimod family's rise to become members of the noblesse de la robe - makes me think of the French film Ridicule, set just before the French Revolution, centred around the noblesse at Versailles and their lives of parlours, banquets and having battles of witty banter for amusement.

In this film, people with disabilities were perceived very poorly - just like Grimod.

Carving being "a social necessity for hosting elite French dinners in the late eighteenth century" - restrictive social requirements around food, another cultural divider between classes.

By becoming a 'guide to the gastronomic arts' for the nouveaux riches bourgeois and proletarians, Grimod assisted the Revolution's aims of evening out the class system as well as opportunistically preserving the key facets he loved about the aristocratic culture.

Grimod summoning jurors to his review nights - reminiscent of how only certain nobles would be invited to have an audience with the King at Versailles.

The discussion about how Grimod named the book - gourmand, meaning glutton, something which was still widely condemned as a sin - reminds me of what was said in the lecture about how it's not just what or how we eat, but how we TALK about it that is also very important.

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Grace

The avenues through which one is able to emanate respect for tradition and ceremony whilst acting in total insubordination against oppressive relationships; structures.

The ever-evolving nature of consumption (transition from raciones style to regimented staggering of courses).

'Fairness' and impartiality at the core of the judgement, and publication process(es)

Semantics of ‘gourmand’ at the time, and how this is still relatively un-translatable (gastronome being close, ‘greedy’ being the direct translation to this day)

The onus placed on carving at the dinner table RE: inaptitude returned shame, dishonour.

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What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

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What strikes you as novel or interesting in this reading; what did you learn?

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·      Retaliation from parents played fundamental role in his decisions in life/adulthood – his career was an act of rebellion against his harsh upbringing – contrasts chefs such as Grossi who glorify their relatives and refer to their past nostalgically

·      His funeral supper ‘insulted his family, questioned social hierarchies and reminded all that death was the great equaliser’ – made meals satirical, ‘controversial entertainments’

·      Grimod preserved elite dishes by making them more palatable and accessible to a wider audience - ‘protective uncle’ tone – interesting transmission of delicacies across classes

·      Redeveloped understanding of ‘gourmand’ to allow people to enjoy tasting food – ‘reflective, thoughtful’ rather than feeling guilty for being gluttonous

·      Grimod helped more people (across classes) appreciate and deepen knowledge on food

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Some examples can be drawn between Escoffier and Artusi. They both utilised print capitalism to create recipe books to give the population free access to either french or italian cusines respectively. although they had different  motivations and different approaches but they wanted to democratise the world of cooking and make it available to all.
Furthermore, this may explain why french dining and cuisine is so highly regarded. France can be seen as the birthplace of the modern restaurant and commercial kitchensexplaining the prestige which Escoffier created through Le Guide Culinaire and the brigade system.

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- according to people speaking in the clip, he revolutionised cooking not only in France but also world wide.
- He codified French recipes.
- Emphasis on keeping recipes simple, yet precise.  Using scientific principles, in that there are rules.
- introduced a military like kitchen system, where the staff have specific roles, and there is a hierarchy in place (eg., sous chefs).

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Alexandre-Balthazar-Laurent Grimod de La Reynière, born into aristrocracy but denounced by his parents due to his deformity.
Developed a sarcastic, provocative attitude towards his heritage and the aristocracy in France, became politically and culturally involved and sought to inject his views on the changing social scene in France into aristocratic life.
He used the dinner table as his site. "Funeral supper" --> essentially a performance art piece (?) that parodied supper at Versailles. Essentially started his working life out as a cultural / literary critic --> during the 1790s needed work at the same time as lamenting the old ways of fine dining. His 'guide to the gastronomic arts'  Alamanach des gourmands was born.

The time period of his work stands out to me - France was a drastically changed and changing landscape throughout the years mentioned.

Class is becoming more and more apparent to me in discussions of food and dining culture/history. The lower and middle classes play two very distinct roles in food knowledge, preparation, dining, and scholarhship (?)
Social conventions are played out through food preparation and practice- 'fine dining' is associated with middle/upper classes.

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- Outside of potatoes, did other vegetables and or products get associated/popular during this time with the rise of women in kitchens due to their roles in traditional family-leading settings?

- was the gender relationship established through text limiting female perspective and roles through political advances?

- why was cuisine and or cooking linked so closely with political and or socio-political advances?

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-The French revolution was time of drastic societal change, which translated into the way food was prepared and viewed.

- There was a move away from elaborate food, to more simple and accessible cuisine.

-The role of women and food shifted, with literature encouraging women to drive the development of a 'republic cuisine', rather than the elite male chefs.

- Culinary guilds who trained elite public cooks were closed to make way and opportunity for female cooks, to create a "free market economy". However this ultimately failed, as due to political and economic circumstances, it was impossible to make a living wage as a public cook, whether male or female.

- There was a push to change the names of food with royal connotations, however this movement was unsuccessful.

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- potatoes were seen almost as the staple of the revolution
- like Artusi's book, cookbooks at the time looked to change the way the nation thinks about cuisine by making it more accessible to the middle class
- they did this by making cooking less aristocratic, more simple and thrifty
- female cooks were to be the foundation of the new regime's progressive and natural cuisine
- foreign words were banned at the time

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gender

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'Gastronomic meal of the French' UNESCO http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/gastronomic-meal-of-the-french-00437

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Gastronomic meal of the French - intangible heritage - Culture Sector - UNESCO

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Website of the Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage

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Gollner, A. 'The New Nouvelle Cuisine' New York Times

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Steinberger, M. 'Can anyone save French food?' New York Times

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Roser I Puig, M. 'What's cooking in Catalonia?'

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Official Spanish Tourism campaign http://www.spain.info

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Tourism in Spain |Tourist information about Spain | spain.info USA

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Tourist information in Spain: art, culture, museums, monuments, beaches, cities, parties, tours, cuisine and nature in Spain | spain.info USA

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The Catalan Generalitat website http://www.catalunya.com/what-to-do/savour/gastronomy-with-a-past-with-the-cuisine-associations

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Appadurai, A. 'How to make a national cuisine: Cookbooks in contemporary India'

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