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I used this critical path diagram when outlining how COVID-19 affected each stage and slowed down the process.

I wanted to put this picture on my Padlet as it really helped my understand the different stages of the critical path. It is most important that the critical path is managed closely and accurately in order to track delivery's, missing orders, samples, transportation and product development.

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Glenn - Primark Buyer
Felicity - E-comm Boohoo Buyer

I used this source when researching my covid impact for buying environment because it gave me a clear understanding of what buyers needed to think about.

We had a lesson where we had some industry speakers come in and talk to us about the management of the critical path. I really found Felicity part most interesting and really relevant. The biggest thing that I took from this that sustainability is not a buyers problem, they need to be aware and adopt but it is the whole business responsibility.

During COVID, Felicity said that she cut the Critical path down by 4 days for the athleisure trend. It is most important that online fast fashion are very fast and adopt to customer demands.

I also learnt about test and repeat which is the business model of fast fashion. This is where a product comes in in a small number of units, usually 300 and the buyer reviews after 24 hours. If the product is a success the buyer can request new trending colours and max out that product in new designs and review the product.

KEY POINT - COVID 19 was huge for athleisure !!!

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Key points to take away - this article was useful when researching how covid affected the buying environment and how it quickly adapts to technology and sustainability.

- Interesting to see how factory workers cut the fabric - METAL GLOVES
- Learnt how suppliers price their garments, including all there fabrics, trimming, care labels, swing tickets, over heads
- What happens if Buyers ask below their profit margin - instead of letting the customer (buyer) go, suppliers can adjust their garment to make it cheaper, e.g use less fabric by cutting a sleeve or not double hemming
- 'Move on' - maxing out a best seller by adding a colour, a sleeve, neck line or lace to not change is a good way (sometimes new product development can be risky)
- Opitex computerised system - cuts time off the critical path and is so much more sustainable! - less fabric waste, less transportation
- Health and safety conditions in factory
- 4 main machines - workers will stick to one machine and one particular stitch because it is so much efficient
- A good working relationship with supplier and buyers is key. To be a good buyer you need to understand garment tech so you understand why the buyer has priced the garment and what they can do to reduce - or look at previous samples and why is that priced lower?!
- Confidentiality - a good design, factory's cant take designs.

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I made some notes on the menswear market for River Island
- Opportunity to increase in store space in mens wear
- Market share 2.7%
- In need of a celebrity ambassador

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Looking at past collaborations and ranges to get some idea's of maybe what I could do my INP on. Making sure I am working towards the target of the brief, I want to make sure my INP project is as original, creative and relevant to current trends.

I especially like the idea of a Sustainability focus and using celebrity endorsement to push the brand on social media. I  enjoyed past collaborations which showed a cross of luxurious brands and sportswear (Nike and Dior).

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**COMFORT** is key for A/W 21 so this needs to be embedded throughout the range and integrated easier wearing.

Key items -
- Printed shirts: large scale prints
- Blouses
- Statement sweaters
- Pull on trousers
- Tailored trousers
- Fluid dresses
- Duvet coats
- Statement layers

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This short article really helped me understand the profit hit River Island faced during the pandemic. Although profits were already down from 2019, the help of online sales allowed profit to be better than expected. This highlights the importance of changing in consumer shopping habitats and the move to online shopping.

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https://www.riverislandcareers.com/about-us/
The River Island website allowed me to see a timeline of the history of River Island. It was particular good to see when River Island Kids and Home was launched. This shows  that River Island are adapting to customer demands and exploring their opportunities to make River Island a brand which customers can go to for every fashion desire.

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In-class briefing notes

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Mind-map to show potential idea's and what I need to prioritise. When beginning any sort of work, I like to write down what I need to include and what potential route of idea's I could go down. This makes me feel more organised and keeps me working towards the objective of the brief.

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Progress: Business Plan Proposal - 09/01/2021

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Progress: Business Plan Proposal - 09/01/2021

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9th Jan - week 3

My business plan proposal so far, my proposal shows how i found week 1 and 2.

I am really happy and excited as to how my INP is producing. I also feel less stressed as I am 2 weeks ahead of schedule. My goal for the week 3 is to keep ahead of schedule so I have more time at the end to check my work and read over. However, the placement starts soon so I have less time so not sure if I will be able to stick to this aim.

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Finished: Business Plan Proposal - 12/02/2021

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Finished: Business Plan Proposal - 12/02/2021

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My finished business proposal showing my finished weekly planner.

The business plan proposal allowed me to keep track of my tasks and tick them off when they have been completed. The proposal allowed me to clearly set out my research and I found this very useful throughout the project and understanding what I need to do. All research and content was dated in order for me to keep track of my progress. It is fair to say that my action plan was a good estimate into what I need to do, however I found myself sometimes needing more time or less time needed in my plan, especially for designing the range. My action plan was updated and changed throughout the INP.

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River Island current pricing strategy - I slightly had my range more expensive to justify the sustainable materials and exclusivity of the range.

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**REASSURE** is key for A/W 21 as customers are looking for reassurance joy and sustainable solutions in a rapidly evolving women's market.

Key Prints -

Slogan t-shirts - pandemic has created eco-anxiety which has caused a shift in customers spending priorities - how is your brand committed to driving change? placement graphics up 27% - ** Feminist/ Gender Equality T-Shirts

Nu-boheme prints - customers are looking for reassurance, Paisley and Bohemian florals create a classic, authentic and feminine look - matches with Harry's look of florals and Gucci/ Marc Jacob vibes.

Joyful expression - brands using clothing to promote positive well-being as consumers seek out fun and optimism -** crucial in Harry's collection.

Soft Stripes - customers warming to soft stripes and comforting looks

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Lets state the obvious: "A piece of fabric, or a garment has no gender".

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The Harry Styles's Influence - 15/12/2020

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The Harry Styles's Influence - 15/12/2020

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“Generation Z has rejected the societal restraints previously put upon them and demanded we look beyond the binary".

- 81% of Generation Z believe a person shouldn't be defined by their gender

- 56% of Generation Z shop outside their assigned gender

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Harry's Key Styles -
- Gucci / Marc Jacobs influencer
- Tailoring
- 70's
-Showman: Elton John and David Bowie
- Pussybow Blouses
- Bright Colours
- Pearls & Earrings
- Princess Diana influence
- Floral prints
- Flamboyant and crazy
- High waisted trousers

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I found this article very interesting as it helped me to understand how brands survived during the covid 19 pandemic and how sustainability is a big impact of that.

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Change in consumer attitudes towards Sustainability - 23/01/2021

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Change in consumer attitudes towards Sustainability - 23/01/2021

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Gen Z customers willing to pay more for products that have be made with care and last longer

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How businesses need to change - 23/01/2021

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How businesses need to change - 23/01/2021

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Customers are now judging brands on their sustainability and how they treat their supply chains.

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The shutting down of society as we know it is giving a lot of time for reflection, not least in fashion circles. In an interview in the design magazine Dezeen, the influential trend forecaster Li Edelkoort has called it a "quarantine on consumption" that is having a devastating impact on our economy and culture, but ultimately offers "a blank page to a new beginning".

While sections of the fashion industry already knew they could not continue on their current trajectory, it was inconceivable that brands could be forced to slow down, let alone stop production altogether. But that is what has happened as famous names from Prada to Zara have turned their production lines to making medical gowns and masks, and luxury houses have changed from making perfume to sanitisers. It's an unprecedented interruption of an industry that has relied on speeding from one season's sales to the next. And it is bringing with it a new sense of connectedness, responsibility and empathy.

Until factories started to feel the effects of Covid-19, the global fashion business was producing 150bn items of clothing each year, far in excess of the needs of a global population of 7.9 billion. Clothing consumption globally was in 2017 projected to rise still more, by 63% by 2030, according to the Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group. Who knows if those projections will be dented now that bricks-and-mortar shops are closed, orders have halted and supply chains have been stopped in their tracks?

As factory orders dry up, the lowly paid, overworked garment workers without sick pay or any financial cushion are the ones who are paying the biggest price. The question is how, when the self-isolation and fear abates, we can use this temporary moratorium on production to correct the course of a carbon-guzzling and exploitative industry. We cannot continue down this path of unchecked overproduction, waste and human misery.

On Saturday, people around the world will be reflecting on the temporary decrease in CO ₂ as they turn off their lights at 8.30pm (local time wherever they are), to take part in Earth Hour. This annual environmental campaign by WWF will remind us that, according to the UN, we have only 10 years to keep global warming to 1.5C. This is something the academics Kate Fletcher and Mathilda Tham are acutely aware of. In their new report, Earth Logic Fashion Action Research Plan, they write: "The time frame of 10 years is the same as a child's time at school. One eighth of most people's lifetime, or 10 annual reports for a business. Consider what you, your family, community, workplace will do in the coming 10 years. Every moment will count."

Their argument pivots around the idea that the only way to ensure we cut carbon emissions and end the cycles of overproduction and waste is to imagine a whole new system that places the Earth's needs before those of industrial growth. In a post-Covid-19 world, that's beginning to look slightly more feasible. "We propose planet before industry as a radical idea in which the health and survival of our planet Earth is given precedence over business interests," they write.

The coronavirus pandemic has brought into stark focus the fact that business as usual can be stopped in its tracks. Anything, it seems, is now possible. According to the environmental journalist and broadcaster Lucy Siegle, who wrote the foreword to the Earth Logic report, this break is a "lifeline" to the industry and a "chance to reboot our efforts and change our course based on evidence and fact".

"Once we realise that the current system is always going to be self-limiting as there are finite resources, putting Earth first is the only option," says Fletcher, of the London College of Fashion's Centre for Sustainable Fashion. This is not about tinkering around the edges of the existing way of working, creating "sustainable" collections or clothing recycling schemes: Earth Logic attacks the very root of the problem: the existing economic model itself. This means a shift from production to the maintenance, use and care of existing clothes. It means reducing the volume of clothes we produce, and in turn, the amount of resources we are using. It means moving from globalised, tangled and unsafe supply chains to small production centres based around the needs and desires of local communities. "We need to find a role for industry scattered across communities," says Fletcher, with multiple local hubs for people to be educated, to make and repair their clothes.

Patriarchy and growth logic are inextricably intertwined, says Tham. The same sorts of people are making the same sorts of decisions. According to Earth Logic, there would be respect for "fashion in non-western geographies. We can train the focus of fashion on supporting race and gender equality. Each perspective offers new models and practices for relating with fashion as well as broadening and diversifying the base of fashion expertise."

These are all points the next generation coming into the industry is demanding, too. "The questions students are asking are very different now," says Tham, who teaches fashion and economics students at the Linnaeus University, Sweden. How we design clothes must connect with the needs of society and the environment and work with them, not against them. We are seeing this happening with designers looking for ways to help make protective equipment and gowns for medical teams. These new positive role models must be allowed to lead the way forward.

We have uncertain and painful times ahead. But Fletcher says: "It's about trying not to look away when the going gets hard." We are seeing that in times of real emergency, people's behaviour has to change. Even pressing pause on fashion's relentless cycle for a season (possibly two) will have a profound effect. Already, so much has changed. The cycle of fashion for fashion's sake has been broken. We must use this time to rethink how this industry can be redesigned with respect for the planet and the health of the people who work in it.

"It's like turning a kaleidoscope and seeing new patterns emerge," says Tham. "There are so many possible patterns. Things can change very quickly when we have a new perspective. It is not impossible."

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'Put Earth first': can a greener, fairer fashion industry emerge from crisis?

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The shutting down of society as we know it is giving a lot of time for reflection, not least in fashion circles. In an interview in the design magazine Dezeen, the influential trend forecaster Li Edelkoort has called it a "quarantine on consumption" that is having a devastating impact on our economy and culture, but ultimately offers "a blank page to a new beginning".

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Visitors came into speak on sustainability - 21/01/2019

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Visitors came into speak on sustainability - 21/01/2019

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Key info to take away - a good working relationship between suppliers and retailers is crucial to the success of a business, customers will remember how organisations treat their suppliers during pandemic and this will affect profit.
- businesses can't do it all - 3 pillars project management (cost, sustainability and time) - no one is doing it all yet, its very hard to do
- retailers adapting - virtual is new face to face - listening to what customer want - product development
- Covid19 affected all supply chain, hard to get samples, delays - organisations trying to be sustainable by recycling stock to reduce land waste. looking at new sustainability materials, PPE practises into factories and warehouses

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Notes on visitor speaking on Sutainability

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Change of consumer buying habits - 17/01/2021

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Change of consumer buying habits - 17/01/2021

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Interesting read which outlined the importance of sustainability in 2020 for customers

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When beginning my research, I found this article very interesting as it gave me an insight into trending social and aspirational pieces for 2021. It was very insightful and helpful.

Key facts:
- Genuinfluencers - a new take on social media influencers where by instead of fashion/beauty these individuals spread key information on social matters and charities. I felt like this was really relevant for my project as the aim of my range is to promote gender equality and gender fluidity

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=de6LxWaN37o

With some retailers already gone bankrupt and others kept afloat by government subsidies, we expect companies to increase market share, unlock new opportunities and expand their capabilities. I believe that the Harry Style Collection explores new ventures for River Island and will help their performance during the pandemic.

- Living with the virus
- Diminished demand
- Digital sprint
- Seeking justice
- Travel interrupted
- Less is more
- Opportunist investment
- Deeper partnerships
- Retail ROI.
- Work Revolution

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Example: Business Plan Proposal - 07/01/2021

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Example: Business Plan Proposal - 07/01/2021

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Looking at the previous filled in plan proposal helped me understand how to answer the questions. I especially struggled with the creative and communication question and the filled in proposal gave me some direction. I was able to answer the question accurately and clearly.

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I looked through some WGSN CatWalk CADS throughout 2021 and 2020 A/W to get some inspiration of how they used the trending colours and garments to create the perfect product. Balenciaga, Vivienne Westwood, Alice & Olivia and Rebecca Minkoff were my favourite!

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Product Development: Design - 19/01/2021

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Product Development: Design - 19/01/2021

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I screenshotted a really good description of the bow tie top that I used within my range.

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Using Edited to look at other competitors who are successful with their floral prints - Zara

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**EASE OF WEAR // PRACTICALITY** as cash strapped consumers continue to asses their shopping habits. Newness is based on staying at home and the commute into work.

Key accessories -

- Printed Scarves
- Charms
- Stay home socks
- Bucket duffle bag

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I created myself a Range Plan checklist as this allows me to put all my range plan ideas in one place. I found this checklist most useful because when I had designed a CAD it allowed me to tick it off once created. It keeps me aligned with the WGSN trends and the information from the Buyers Debriefs. Also, helps me visage what colours I have used and what I need to add. I found it very helpful as it made me think more clearly and keeps my work organised.

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This article identifies River Island adopting to the COVID-19 impacts. Customers are shopping online and River Island need's to make sure that the River Island website delivers the same experience and customer service as what the stores would do. River Island's planned to cut 350 head office jobs  to simpler their retail structure. This helped me identify River Island current market position and how COVID-19 is impacting the retail industry. I enjoyed reading this article, however it did put into perspective of how much the high street traditional stores may change in the next up-coming years.

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This article identified how the traditional high street brick and water stores are declining as River Island are trying to reduce rent structures to focus on their retail team restructure.

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I wanted to explore the term Genuinfluencer in more detail so I used Edited. It was interesting to see what activist social media accounts were featured and I used them within my project to show how Genuinfluencers are on the rise.

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Activists and Creatives - It is fair to say that this range targets the Activists.  Activists are creating change in society which is the driving factor of this range.

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Rising Prosperity - information into my target audience - cosmopolitan outlook, living in big cities, early adopters with trends and have a smart phone.

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More insightful information into the Gen Z audience. I used a graph from this WGSN which maps out Gen Z emotions and their vulnerability.

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Interesting read on how important influencers are and why River Island depend so heavily on their instagram. This article was helpful when looking how to market my range through the #ImwearingHS

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Rights and Identity - interesting read to see the future trends and how Gen z and Millenials use this within their shopping habits.

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I thought it would be interesting to see the key trending colours for Men this A/W and see how they compared to women's.

It is fair to suggest that Blues, Neutrals, Browns and Oranges are key colours for the men's palettes and I believe this is very similar to womens. I think it is crucial for me to create this comparison when creating a gender fluid line as it allows me to see if there is any difference in gender colours.

Also important to note that stripes were also a key trend in Men's trending.

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Cost pressures to meet customer demands are affecting River Island even before the pandemic.

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Evidence to show that the UK were still suffering after the 2008 recession.

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All started with the Kardashians - Jenners. Social media influences heavily promote. Celebrities or influencers posting pictures of outfits or life styles creates a demand for customers and fast-fashion businesses are meeting these needs at lower prices and fast turn-over. Fast fashion is so rapid, buyers need to be aware of the current fashion trends and new influencers that define the fashion industry.

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Fast fashion, e.g. Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing have excelled over the past few years. Are they ethically correct though?? Are their products and packaging sustainable??

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https://www.instituteforgovernment.org.uk/blog/rishi-sunak-must-explain-need-tax-rises-after-coronavirus
Tax rise may leave customers with less disposable income to spend on clothes.

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**ECONOMIC UNCERTAINTY** is causing risk-averse black, browns and neutrals to thrive.

**BOLD COLOURS UPLIFT MOODS POST PANDEMIC**

Key colours -

- Soap Nut
- Steel blue / Bold Blues
- Neutrals / Camels
- Black/White/Grey
- Olive oil
- Midnight brown
- Smoked Paprika

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Technological: Changing rooms - 08/01/2021

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Technological: Changing rooms - 08/01/2021

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Bringing digital advancements to the high street to make a more experience in store.

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Technological: Shop Via Instagram - 10/01/2021

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Technological: Shop Via Instagram - 10/01/2021

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Social media giant Instagram has made it even more easier for customers to shop. Products can be bought from Instagram links and this is something I will also use through my range via River Island's instagram.

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https://www.vogue.com/article/zara-sustainable-initiatives
Zara Sustaiability Targets provide intense competition.

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I used the pie chart which identified what devices individuals were using. I used this graph to back up my point about the rise in online shopping, there was only a small minority that did not own a smart phone.

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Welcome to Drapers' Connected Consumer report for 2019. This year, we have explored how online and mobile habits are changing, and chart which channels are becoming the most popular among younger consumers.

Plus, we discuss social shopping behaviour in-depth: which networks are most likely to lead to a sale, which are most inspiring, and the numbers of people who report following - and buying from - retailers and brands via social media.

The report also explores store shopping behaviour and the ways people are using their smartphones in store, as well as other forms of in-store technology.

Drapers' Connected Consumer project draws out what is most important to people when shopping for fashion, as well as pinpointing trends and changes in direction of consumer behaviour. In 2019, the areas of delivery, social and mobile have all undergone significant change.

The continued splits in age-related behaviour are still noteable, and we explore these throughout the report. But they come with a caveat, which is to be careful not to write off changes in behaviour for older shoppers. While younger shoppers do often adopt new habits earlier, patterns and expectations in browsing and buying fashion are changing across the board.

This year for the first time we asked people to report whether they have used voice and visual search technologies, to get a sense of usage levels of these newer ideas. While the big technology companies are keen to push these new services as being the future of search, usage levels will need to climb higher before more fashion retailers decide to invest.

The data suggests, however, that those who have not yet experimented with voice and visual search should be keeping a close eye on how they develop, and have a clear idea of when investment will become worthwhile.

As ever, this report offers a fascinating glance into consumers' mindsets and attitudes surrounding multichannel shopping. We hope you find it useful.
Rebecca Thomson, head of commercial content, Drapers

How do you prefer to shop for fashion?

To set the scene, we ask people to choose the channel they generally use to make a purchase. This year, consumers reported a very slight fall in store shopping. While older shoppers are more likely to prefer stores - 58% of those over 55 says they prefer this channel - younger shoppers are not abandoning it, either. For those aged 34 or under, 42% say stores are their preferred channel.

The biggest shift, however, was between the two online channels: mobile grew significantly, largely at the expense of desktop/laptop shopping. For Generation Z shoppers - which in this survey means those aged 18 to 24 - mobile is not far behind stores: 36% report it as their preferred channel for buying fashion. While many of the current changes in behaviour can be observed across age groups, this is one where there is a significant difference.

Older shoppers are less likely to use mobile: just 4.5% of those over 55 say it is their preferred shopping channel. Nevertheless, this represents a significant rise from 2018 when just 0.4% of the over-55s reported it as their preferred channel.

A surge in mobile use among older people is expected in the coming years, and not just in the UK. Many older people have higher incomes, so they are a demographic worth tracking. Chinese etail giant JD.com reports that older shoppers spend more once they are comfortable with smartphone shopping: 2.3 times more than the average user.

What do you look for when buying fashion?

Broadly, quality, fit and price are the driving factors in people's purchasing decisions, and this continues to be the case. However, we changed some of the categories of this question for 2019, making year-on-year comparisons more complex. This was the first year we added "good value" as an option, in a bid to get a sense of the split of people who just look at price versus those who might be willing to spend more if they perceive a produce as being good value, whether through its quality or its versatility.

For 54% of shoppers value is among their most important purchase drivers (we allowed people to pick up to three of these), compared with 38% of shoppers who prioritise low price (in 2018, 60% of shoppers chose price). This focus on value over price could reflect recent trends to buy fewer, higher-quality items, especially given that quality also rose in importance. This year 59.4% of shoppers say quality drove their purchases, up from 52% last year.

How often do you shop for fashion online?

Across the board, the reported frequency of online shopping is creeping up. Younger shoppers have increased their frequency, but only slightly: the proportion of people aged 18 to 24 who report shopping once a week or more has edged up from 41% to 42%.

Across all age groups, the percentage of people who say they never shop online has fallen from 10% to 6.6%. However, in what is possibly an indication of belt-tightening by consumers still facing Brexit uncertainty, the number of people reporting monthly shopping has fallen, and those reporting more sporadic clothing purchases has risen.

Which devices do you use to browse fashion online?

When it comes to browsing for fashion online, nearly half of consumers are using mobile - 48%, up from 39% in 2018. This comes at the expense of every other form of device. The direction of travel is still towards mobile and further growth in this channel looks likely.

Which devices do you use to buy fashion online?

The same trends are clearly visible year on year for the actual purchase, as well. Use of all devices fell except for smartphones, which continued to grow. People are becoming more comfortable buying on smaller screens and are responding well to the on-the-go convenience that mobile provides.

What type of website do you most often shop on?

Online retailers such as Asos, Boohoo and Net-a-Porter are very close to catching up with high street retailers' websites, especially as more high street brands choose to be stocked on sites such as Asos. Other types of sites are also growing in popularity - the number of people who report shopping on marketplaces grew from 12% to 20% year on year, independent retailers grew from 6% to 10%. In 2019 10% of people said they shop on peer-to-peer sites selling pre-owned items, such as Depop, although we don't have a year on year comparison for this category as it was a new addition this year.

What is most likely to make you buy?

Online shoppers still want plenty of choice, but this is actually less important than it was in 2018: 45% of people say it is likely to make them buy, compared with 60% in 2018.

Clear sizing information is still as important as it ever was, and people are using this to determine whether something will fit them.

Finally, free delivery emerged as a significant driver of conversion: nearly a third of shoppers rate it as among their most important factors.

What makes you abandon an online purchase?

The delivery theme continues here: more than 40% of consumers report that unexpected delivery changes have made them abandon a purchase. Across the board, fewer people report abandoning purchases for every other reason in 2019 compared with 2018. Hearteningly, the percentage of people who report never having abandoned a purchase has risen from 12.5% to 17.5%. Delivery charges were the exception.

How do you prefer to pay online?

PayPal and debit cards are the most popular methods of payment but Amazon Pay, Google Pay and Apple Pay are prefered by a total of 15% of shoppers. Newer services such as the ability to buy now and pay later, or split a payment into three monthly amounts are also starting to grow in popularity.

Which of these devices do you own?

Android smartphones contine their lead over iPhone ownership among the consumers polled for this survey. However, in general, young people show a preference for iPhones and older people prefer Androids. For those aged 18 to 24, 35% report owning an iPhone compared with 31.3% of those who have Android phones. For people aged 55 and over the split is 35% Android and 9% iPhone.

Another trend we have become used to seeing is the fall in tablet ownership. In 2018, 56% of consumers reported owning both a smartphone and a tablet. In 2019, this fell to 35.4%. Tablet ownership also increases with age: 42% of shoppers over 55 own both a smartphone and a tablet, compared with 30% of those aged 25 to 34.

Have you ever used your smartphone to do any of the following?

Across the board, consumers are using their phones more. Nearly every category in this question showed a rise in the number of people who report doing it. We added the option "to pay" this year: nearly 40% say they have used their phones to pay, rising to 54% for those aged 18 to 24. Only 4% of this age group say they do not use their phone to do any of these things, and across all age groups the number of people saying they do not use their phones to shop at all fell from 36% to 32%.

When are you most likely to use your phone to browse or buy fashion?

The most popular time for online shopping is during the evenings while watching TV. Some fashion retailers are already using this behavioural trend to boost sales via partnerships with popular TV shows. Young fashion etailer I Saw It First, for instance, maximised the impact of its partnership with reality show Love Island by featuring images of contestants wearing its clothes in that night's episode on the Love Island app. Clicking on a picture of a contestant in a particular dress would take the viewer through to the page to buy. The brand reported a month-on-month sales increase of 67% as a result of the tie-up.

Around 42% of shoppers below the age of 45 said they shop on mobile while watching TV. However, for the youngest shoppers, scrolling in bed was just as popular: 44% of them said they do this. For those aged 55 and over, just over half said they do not buy fashion on their mobile, but this was down from 65.5% in 2018.

How many retailer apps have you downloaded on your phone?

Nearly 60% of our consumers say they have downloaded at least one retailer app on their phone, rising to 82% for those aged 18 to 24. The number of people who have downloaded no apps at all fell from 46% in 2018 to 33% in 2019.

How often do you open your most-used retail app?

This is a new question for this year so we cannot yet tell if reported frequency of app use is growing, but nearly a quarter of those aged 25 to 34 open their most-used app every two to three days, while a further fifth open it once a week. App use generally follows the expected trend: older people report using apps less, but it only really starts to drop off for those aged 45 and over. Only a third of consumers have no apps at all.

What makes you download a fashion brand's app?

We evolved this question slightly in 2019, making year on year comparisons slightly difficult. Broadly, it is brand love, discounts and convenience that are the biggest drivers of app downloads. Brand love is particularly important for younger shoppers: just under half say it drives them to download a brand's app. This reflects younger people's desire to buy and wear clothes they feel reflect their values.

What stops you buying on mobile?

Hearteningly, the number of people answering "nothing" to this question fell this year. People are becoming more relaxed about security and the size of the screen on mobile. The only area that appears to still need work is payment: more people report a difficult payment experience year on year.

What makes you want to use in-store technology

The store technology that is most likely to be effective is anything that cuts queues, and anything that helps customers find a specific product. This is especially true for the growing number of people who browse on their mobiles before heading into store to try on and buy. Any service that could help with that is likely to be a winner for store sales.

What puts you off using store tech?

In-store tech needs to have clear benefits for customers and be carefully designed to make it easy to use. Increasingly for many fashion retailers, this means focusing on attempting to alleviate the bits of the shopping process no one enjoys: queues and crowds. Zara, for example, is trialling self-service units in London where shoppers can scan, pay and remove security tags without staff involvement. They are placed near the changing rooms, so shoppers can immediately purchase items they have tried on. But it remains to be seen whether the fashion chain will roll the technology out further in 2020.

What is important for you when using click and collect

Consumers are used to using click and collect now, and for them it is about speed and how easy the experience is. The most important factor is that the collection point is easy to find, while other more experienced-focused factors fell in importance.

What prompts a store visit for you?

Store shopping remains important to fashion consumers, despite the difficulties being experienced by many chains. The tactile nature of fashion, alongside the continued difficulty for a consumer in understanding fit online, means that trying on clothes is the biggest draw of visiting stores. Plus, of course, Sales and discounts draw footfall as well.

How do you use your phone in store?

More than 40% of people say they do not use their phones in store at all, but this varies a lot by age. The number of customers who say they do not use their phone in store at all falls to just 19% among 18-to-24-year-olds and 20% for those aged 25 to 34. This leaps to 40% for those aged 35 to 44, 67% for the 45-to-54-year-olds and 74% for those over 55. In terms of what people use their phones to do, checking prices and comparing with other retailers is the most popular option for all age ranges.

Have you ever abandoned an in-store purchase? If so, why?

Which social networks do you use?

It is generally accepted that younger consumers are moving away from Facebook to other platforms, but our data suggests that those aged 18 to 24 do have a presence on the network. The situation may be different for those under 18, but 77% of this cohort in our survey said they use it.

Overall, social media use continues to grow. The number of people who say they never use social networks fell from 13% in 2018 to 9% this year, but as expected there are big age disparities. Only 1% of those under 24 report never using social media, compared with 20% of those aged 55 to 60.

Which social networks have inspired you with outfit ideas?

The most noteable change here is the year-on-year growth in Instagram, which is now rated as more inspirational than Facebook when it comes to outfit ideas. The age disparity is clear again: 20% of those under 24 say they never use social media for shopping, compared with 83% of those aged 55 to 60.

Pinterest also grew in popularity for younger shoppers: 20% say they got outfit ideas from the site, compared with 12% last year. While the data gives an interesting indication of trends, this question is likely to have been affected by the difference in what people say they do versus what they do in reality, which are often two very different things.

Have you ever clicked on a social post and bought something? (brand vs influencer)

Users rate themselves as more likely to buy from brands than influencers: nearly a third say they have clicked through from a brand's image to buy compared with 23% for influencers. For the youngest shoppers, more than half (52%) say they have bought something from a brand or retailer via social.

Have you ever clicked on a brand's post and bought anything? (2018 vs 2019)

Buying via social has become more common in the last 12 months: 32% of conusmers report having done so this year, compared with 24% in 2018.

Which networks have you purchased from?

Instagram has taken a leap in popularity after the network made it easier to shop via its images this year. Facebook remains the most popular network across all age groups, although it is falling. For the youngest shoppers, Instagram is already the most popular: 44% shop on Instagram against 40% on Facebook.

When you see content from fashion brands on social media that you like, what does it tend to make you do?

We added the option "screengrab or save" this year, which proved fairly popular, and this makes a year-on-year comparison difficult. However, the number of people who say they are never prompted into action by social content fell from 36% to 31%.

How many brands or retailers have you followed?

There was a big fall in the number of people who report not following any brands, and a simultaneous rise in the number who follow between one and 10 brands or retailers, showing how much more normal it is becoming to follow brands. It is probably also a reflection of the continued improvements we see in the quality of content brands share online.

For what purpose are you comfortable sharing your data with a retailer?

The positive thing about this question is the fact that the number of people saying they are not comfortable with any data sharing continues to fall year on year.

We added a new option this year: "Finding products that suit or fit me better". This is in reference to the growing success of styling services such as US-based Stitch Fix and the UK's Thread. Stitch Fix was founded in 2011 by former J Crew buyer Erin Morrison Flynn and Katrina Lake, who is now the CEO. It combines personal stylists with machine learning to send customers boxes of clothing picked just for them, and is valued at nearly $2bn on the US stock market.

Both brands reflect the growing openness among consumers to sharing data if the benefits are clear to them: whether that means easier clothes shopping, more convenient services or items that look better on them than something they would have chosen. It is an area in which we expect further development in coming years.

Overall, the number of people who say they are comfortable with the idea of targeted offers continues to edge up. Predictably, those under 35 are most comfortable with the idea of sharing their data with brands: only 20% say they are not comfortable at all. For them, the most popular reason to do so is fast, one-click payments. Around 40% of consumers under 35 rate this as their top reason for sharing their data.

What data would you be happy to share with a retailer, if the benefits to you were clear?

The year-on-year comparisons are very similar for most categories here, with the exception of a bigger rise in the number of people who are happy to share their size, weight and height details. This strengthens the theory above that shoppers are increasingly happy to share this information as the benefits become more generally known.

How often do you like to receive emails from brands and retailers?

Putting customers in control is wise when it comes to brand communications. Most people deemed weekly or fortnightly emails to be ideal, but nearly a third said they wanted the option to choose.

When thinking about delivery, what is most important to you?

Free and quick delivery have become even more important to consumers this year: free delivery is the most important factor for consumers considering whether to purchase or not. Free delivery is particuarly important to those over 45: 80% rate it as their most important aspect.

Quick delivery is most important to younger shoppers: 56% of the the 18-to-24 age group rates it as important, compared with 40% of those over 55.

What are you willing to spend on standard delivery?

Customer expectations on paying for delivery are rising: the number of people expecting to pay nothing has grown from 19% to 42%. This is mostly driven by older shoppers: nearly 60% of those over 55 saythey want to pay nothing.

Conversely, 60% of those aged 18 to 24 will pay between £1 and £5 for standard delivery, while 55% of those aged between 25 and 34 agree this is a reasonable amount to pay.

What are you willing to spend on next day delivery?

More people understand the need to pay for next-day delivery: nearly 60% of respondents say they would pay £1 to £5. This time, the results are fairly consistent across age groups. Just under 30% of the youngest shoppers (18 to 24) say they would pay £6 to £10.

Have you ever searched for a fashion item using voice tech? (eg Amazon Alexa, Siri etc)

This year, we wanted to see how many people report using newer services such as voice search and visual search. Technology companies are keen to pitch these services as the new frontier of online search, and our data suggests a relatively high level of use already.

Across all age groups, 20% of people report having used voice search of some kind (whether Amazon Alexa or Siri on the iPhone) to look for a fashion item. The age group most likely to have done this is those aged 25 to 34: 32% report having used voice search for fashion.

This is slightly higher than the youngest cohort of 18-to-24-year-olds, and may be because those over 25 tend to have higher incomes and may own more voice-enabled devices.

Have you ever purchased a fashion item using voice technology?

Just under 16% also said they went on to purchase that item, instructing the device to do so via voice technology. The highest incidence of this was the 25-to-34 age group: 27% of this group report having purchased fashion using voice technology. This compares with 7% of those over 55.

Have you ever searched for an item using visual search technology?

Visual search - whereby people point their phone camera at a particular pattern or item, and are then taken to a search page showing similar items - is marginally more popular than voice. Just over a fifth (22%) of respondents reported having searched for something using visual search, while 17% said they also purchased it.

Have you ever purchased an item using visual search?

The 25-to-34-year-old age range was the most likely to have used visual technology: 37% say they have searched for a fashion item and 29% say they went on to buy it.

As consumers balance their time between smartphones, laptops, social, smart speakers and other digital technology, they are quickly learning to use these devices together to achieve their shopping goals.

They might see a video ad and then visit the mobile site. Or they may comparison shop on Google and Zalando first before using a retailer's app to make the purchase. Increasingly, consumers are circling through longer and more complex journeys that span a multitude of channels.

Research from Forrester has found that today's empowered consumers expect rich, relevant, continually updated content to help them through each step of the customer journey - regardless of purchase touchpoint. That is why it is so important to have an optimised presence wherever your customers are interacting.

From this year's survey results, we can see consumers crave flexibility to browse across devices, the opportunity to interact with brands and seek inspiration on a social level, and have a frictionless checkout and delivery experience.

The only certainty in ecommerce is change, and we are excited to see how the industry evolves over the next year.
Jon Maury, managing director, EMEA, Channel Advisor

Customers - especially younger ones - overwhelmingly prefer brands that personalise experiences, and they recognise that sharing information with their favourite brands comes with benefits, from personalised coupons to relevant product recommendations.

But it is important to remember that they want those exchange to be transparent and optional. If they trust you with their data, they want to know what you are doing with it and, importantly, what they'll get out of it. For example, spell out that you only want their birthday so you can send them a gift when it rolls around.

Retailers can delight shoppers and build loyalty by providing tailored customer experiences at each stage of the purchasing journey - but you can build brand confidence and trust by being upfront and giving your customers control. Differentiate yourself from competitors with an open, customer-focused approach that lets them control what they share and how often they receive messaging.

Saima Alibhai, head of professional services EMEA, Oracle NetSuite

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Welcome to Drapers' Connected Consumer report for 2019. This year, we have explored how online and mobile habits are changing, and chart which channels are becoming the most popular among younger consumers.

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Threats: Competitors Sustainability - 01/02/2020

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Threats: Competitors Sustainability - 01/02/2020

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Primark Sustainability targets to reduce 30% of greenhouse gases by 2020 and how they adopted their iconic brown recyclable bags to the 2020 Christmas period.

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Traditional retail stores are struggling. I found this article very insightful as it had a clear statement of what retailers need to do to success; "Retailers need to adopt a deeper understanding to online purchases".

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https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2019/08/river-island-asks-landlords-cut-rents-40/

This article provided me with an insight into the struggles that traditional brick and water stores are facing. The high street rent is very expensive and with less footfall and more online shopping this is a major worry for River Island.

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River Island ethically sourced womens range 'Harpenne' closed in April 2020. This shows the difficulty retailers are facing when developing new products and ranges within a pandemic and why there is some risk towards my range.

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I believe that the wholesale industry adds to the success of retailers as it provides another platform whereby a wider variety of customers can access their products.

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River Island designs all their products in house.

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An example of how Zara have adapted their stores digitally to improve the customer experience. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/zara-self-service-checkout-shopping-review-fast-fashion

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I used this article to see how sustainability has changed for our businesses and how recycled fabrics are a must.

Within my project, I looked at a discounted 100% Viscose blouse, although visoce is not as damaging as Cotton or Nylon, the wood pulp effect has some damaging effects on the environment. This article highlights the importance of recyclable clothing and states the rise in renting clothes environmentally friendly impact.

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Coping in the Corona Virus Landscape - 21/02/2021

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Coping in the Corona Virus Landscape - 21/02/2021

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Decline in high street - need to create an online presence

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Zara comp shop - Looking at Zara prices.

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Zara Trafford Centre - December 20th

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I found this resource very interesting as it helped me to market segment my Gen Z audience to provide me with a more detailed and accurate customer profile which really filled me with insight to my customers lifestyle habits.

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Every business should invest time and resources in creating consumer profiles of your ideal customers.

These profiles describe consumers based on different categories so they can be grouped for marketing and advertising purposes. By targeting advertising to a specific market segment, companies and marketers can find more success in selling a particular product and increase profits. Consumer profiles allow you to define and describe these market segments.

Consumer Profile Definition

Before marketing a product to potential customers, you will need to define your target customer based on their:

A consumer profile is a description of a customer, or a set of customers, based on the characteristics that they have in common.

Using Market Segmentation to Create Consumer Profiles

No matter how targeted your product, there will be some variations in your ideal customers. For example:

Your customers might all be the same age but live in different geographic regions.

You offer products at different price points to allow you to reach customers at different income levels.

You offer one product that can appeal to customers with different interests.

Some of your customers watch network TV, while others are more likely to see advertising on social media.

Creating multiple consumer profiles allows you to segment your customers based on these differences. You can then use this market segmentation to create advertising that is more successful with different groups of customers.

There are many different traits that can be used to segment customer groups, such as:

Demographic: Age, city or region of residence, gender, race, ethnicity, or household composition.

Socioeconomic: Income, educational attainment, occupation, neighborhood, or association memberships.

Brand affinity/product usage: Product engagement, purchasing history, or level of brand loyalty.

Psychographics: Lifestyles, life stage, personality, attitudes, opinion, or voting behavior.

Generation: Specific generation cohort group.

Geography: Geographical area in which consumers reside and work.

Geodemographics: Combines geography and demographics, which may cluster into identifiable groups.

Benefits: What consumers are looking for when they shop for products and services.

Consumer profiles are often used by market researchers, many of whom develop proprietary consumer profiles or use panels of consumers who have been classified according to their common attributes.

However, any business can and should create consumer profiles to allow for more targeted marketing and advertising. You don't have to work with a market research firm to develop useful consumer profiles.

Segmentation Systems for Creating Consumer Profiles

If you do want to use preexisting consumer profiles, there are many options available.

Market research firms often make their consumer profiles available for discrete market research projects that are conducted for their market research clients at large companies. There are several different examples of classification categories that market research firms use.

ABC1 is a common grouping strategy based on the professional job role of an individual, a person designated as the head-of-household, or the main contributor of income to a family. The termABC1 is shorthand for the first three socioeconomic groups in the taxonomy, which is:

A = Senior or higher managerial, administrative, or professional

B = Intermediate managerial, administrative, or professional

C1 = Supervisory or clerical, and junior managerial, administrative, or professional

C2 = Skilled manual workers

D = Semiskilled and unskilled manual workers

E = Everyone entirely dependent on public support (chronically ill, unemployed, elderly, disabled, and other reasons)

Lifestage and other special groups are mostly categorized according to proprietary consumer research or census-based research. Different countries associated specific percentages with each of the life stages groups. The standard taxonomy for life stage groups is:

Pre-Family or No Family: Younger than 45 who are not parents.

Family: Any age with at least one child younger than 16 still at home.

Third Age: Ages 45-64 with no children younger than 16 still at home.

Retired: Older than 65 with no children younger than 16 still at home.

ACORN (A Classification of Residential Neighborhoods) is a geodemographic segmentation used in the United Kingdom. The system uses census data on residential areas to categorize consumers based on income, education, ethnicity, and other traits. Postal codes then can be associated with specific ACORN categories because people who live in neighborhoods tend to share a number of attributes.

MOSAIC is a system of consumer classifications that covers consumers in 29 countries, including the United States, Australia, Eastern Asia, and Western Europe. It identifies 10 types of residential neighborhoods that can be found in cities around the globe and classifies more than 400 million households worldwide.

ESRI Community Tapestry is a system for classifying households in the United States. It divides U.S. neighborhoods 14 LifeModes, including:

Affluent Estates, Upscale Avenues, Uptown Individuals

Family Landscapes, GenXurban, Cozy Country Living

Ethnic Enclaves, Middle Ground, Senior Styles

Rustic Outposts, Midtown Singles, Hometown

Next Wave, Scholars and Patriots, Unclassified

These LifeModes are subdivided into more than 60 market segments such as Top Tier, Enterprising Professionals, Rustbelt Traditions, and Urban Villages.

CAMEO is a classification system that divides consumers into segments both within specific countries and around the world. CAMEO UK classifies households within the United Kingdom, while CAMEO International is a global system that segments customers across borders. CAMEO Global is the largest system of segmenting consumers in the world, covering buyers across 40 countries in Eastern and Western Europe, the Americas, Africa, and the Asia Pacific region.

PSYTE HD is a Canadian geodemographic system that uses postal codes to classify consumers into more than 50 groups based on lifestyle and neighborhood. It uses the Canadian census as well as third party data to create a comprehensive map of consumer behavior based on neighborhood.

How to Use a Consumer Profile

Once you have collected relevant information about your current and potential customers, creating consumer profiles that describe specific segments allow you to envision a person interested in your product. This gives you an in-depth understanding of:

What will motivate them to find your business.

The benefits they are looking for.

Where they are most likely to interact with your advertising.

The messaging that will best appeal to their needs and wants.

Once you have a clear picture of the type of customers your business should be targeting, you can create an appropriate marketing strategy. Your ideal customer profile will help you pinpoint the who, where, and how to reach potential consumers interested in what your business has to offer.

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How to Create the Ideal Consumer Profile

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Every business should invest time and resources in creating consumer profiles of your ideal customers. These profiles describe consumers based on different categories so they can be grouped for marketing and advertising purposes. By targeting advertising to a specific market segment, companies and marketers can find more success in selling a particular product and increase profits.

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Zara: Being more transparent - 06.12.2021

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Zara: Being more transparent - 06.12.2021

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I used a diagram on page 8 which highlights the change in needs for consumers. Customers are wanting brands to be more open, honest and transparent about their business activity and supply chains. This was very relevant for me when researching Zara for my Comp shop as they provide sustainability information on products.

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ASOS targets the same audience as River Island. They are major competitors due to their inclusivity and wide product range. River Island need something new and exciting to stay ahead.

Menswear Market Share - 5.2%

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https://www.asos.com/women/fashion-feed/2018_10_17-wed/collusion-is-here/
This introduction article to the Collusion brand provided me with an insight into their products to make sure I have a gap in the market for my Harry Styles range.

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A very interesting read that provided me with valuable information of how digital is the forefront of retailers recovery plan during and after Covid. I used screenshot out of this article that stated the importance of social distancing.

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Pantone Colour References

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Pink Pantone Colour Reference

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River Island Colour Assortment - 10/01/2021

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River Island Colour Assortment - 10/01/2021

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Market Analytics on Edited allowed me to see what River Island current colour assortment is. It determined what colours I was going to use and also take a risk with a few colours that were not great sellers but key trends for 2021; e.g -Pink/Orange

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I used this debrief to decide what key trims I would use for my range. I chose collars and lace trends as i felt these were signature within Harry Styles look and also fit in perfectly within the River Island brand.

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As this is gender neutral, I thought it would be also interesting to see what's trending for men: e.g - high waistline and how I want to incorporate this into my range.

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A survey I carried out to my friends to find out more information on River Island customer base and general thoughts towards sustainable clothing and gender fluid clothing.

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A real life article to show that this range is not just fashion but also contributes to destroying gender roles that are damaging are society.

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I was shocked at these statics from 'BBC Future' as they are so high. It really puts into perspective to me how important this range is.

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Main fabrics - Organic Cotton and Sustainable Sheer

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I found this WGSN article really useful when filling in my range and looking at the best sustainable fibres to use. Re Verso cashmere, made in Italy is an up-coming and new fabric that is very sustainable to the environment.

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Recycled cashmere trend is a key 2021 trend. sustainable!

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2021 trends - Adaptable, Comfort, Versatile, Value. I also created some home wearing sweatshirts so that these can either be dressed up or down in-line with the WGSN trending athleisure.

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This article helped me to identify what sustainable fabrics I wanted in my range.

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Edited identified the current ratio of products at River Island and helped me clearly identify my range. The next padlet box identifies the ASOS product mix.

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I used this to compare River Island current product assortment.

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Prints: Information on stripes - 10/02/2021

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Prints: Information on stripes - 10/02/2021

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Using the Menswear' Buying debrief, there was interesting information on how stripesare up by 25% on the catwalk and how turning the stripes horizontal really creates a retro feel.

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Useful for Sourcing - showing advancements in technology and how the critical path can be speed up with digital sampling.

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Connecting the Supply Chain through Digital Agility _ Drapers Guides

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I used this to calculate my profit margins.

I found an in class lesson really helpful as I was not aware of how important profit margins and landed cost prices are. They allow for negotiation with suppliers to make sure buyers meet their margins and make a bigger profit. Even if buyers make a calculated risk and still order from suppliers asking before the profit margin, buyers need to trust in their products and the current trends as buying in bulk will make an even bigger profit.

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Information of C.O.O: India - 21/01/2021

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Information of C.O.O: India - 21/01/2021

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https://www.gov.uk/government/news/uk-and-india-agree-to-deeper-trading-relationship

Interesting facts to use in my PEST

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Information of C.O.O: India - 21/01/2021

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Information of C.O.O: India - 21/01/2021

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https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Top-five-organic-cotton-producers-and-other-countries-having-a-share-in-global-production_fig6_325103693

India is one of the top organic cotton growers.

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Information of C.O.O : India - 21/01/2021

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Information of C.O.O : India - 21/01/2021

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https://www.webretailer.com/b/sourcing-products-india/

Insightful information on sourcing.

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Planned turnover sales -

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River Island followers have the opportunity to buy the collection straight with instagram check out and swipe up to shop. The convenience of using instagram is due to the customer demand of the social platform for shopping ease and influencer presence.

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Instagram is testing a tool that facilitates brand-influencer partnerships through detailed insights on influencers and campaign audiences.

The tool gives Instagram a more active role in influencer marketing, an anticipated $15 billion industry that has inspired the launch of adjacent agencies and marketing firms.

The platform is in the process of learning which types of insights are useful for brands and creators when people shop on the platform.

Instagram is getting more involved in influencer marketing, an industry it helped create.

Starting today, the image-sharing app is testing a tool that helps brands find influencers, or "creators" as Instagram calls them, to partner with. Called the Brand Collabs Manager, the tool has been in use by parent company Facebook since 2018.

Through Instagram's tool, the search for influencers is modelled similarly to ad targeting: brands can specify the desired audience of the influencer they want to work with, including country, gender, age, number of followers and interests. During influencer campaigns, Instagram will share performance metrics as well as giving brands the option to promote influencer content in the feed as if it were an ad.

The tool is Instagram's latest play to take an increasingly active role in the $8 billion influencer marketing economy, which is expected to reach $15 billion worldwide by 2022 and already supports numerous successful third-party influencer marketing agencies.

This year, it introduced " Checkout on Instagram", which lets users complete purchases without leaving the app, " Shop from Creators," which allows influencers to tag those shoppable items, and a " Shopping" tab in its Explore page to discover everything for sale on Instagram. The Brand Collabs Manager gives Instagram more control over activity already happening on the platform: 78 per cent of US marketers said that Instagram posts were the most effective influencer marketing channel, and 73 per cent said Instagram Stories, according to eMarketer. Meanwhile, 23 per cent responded that a Facebook post was most effective.

Instagram's incentive: if creators have an easier time monetising their content to drive value for brands, they will make more content, and brands will invest more ad dollars into Instagram. Brands must be existing advertisers to participate in the Brand Collabs Manager.

"We want to help creators make a living on the platform, and we want to help brands find the audiences that are most relevant to them," says Instagram director of product marketing Susan Buckner Rose. "So we think when done well, this can be a win-win-win for creators, brands and people."

An influencer marketing jackpot

By letting brands search influencer accounts by preferences, the Brand Collabs Manager acts as a matchmaker: brands can see which influencers match the audience or creator search criteria, in addition to the influencer's description, follower count and content category. Brands can then contact potential influencers or invite those who fit the criteria to apply to a project brief. The tool is starting with approximately 40 US Instagram influencers who were selected by Instagram, based on factors including previous use of the branded content tag. Going forward, creators must apply to participate in the Brand Collabs Manager.

Once a brand and an influencer have begun working together, the Brand Collabs Manager provides insights on sponsored posts. Brands can also pay Instagram to promote influencer content as an ad as well as compare performance of "organic" branded content influencer posts (meaning those that were not promoted to a different audience) to branded content ads that have been boosted. Within the campaign audience, brands can track age, gender and reach, marking the first time Instagram has opened this type of data up directly to brand marketers. According to Rose, the tool will make for smarter influencer strategies, as brands can more accurately reach the audience they're looking to target.

Previously, brands have only been able to see campaign engagement and reach data or had to rely on influencers to send incremental insights themselves. Gen Z influencer Markian Benhamou, who has more than 665,000 followers and is participating in the test, says that having insights in one place will reduce the repetitive process of sharing insights with brand partners. Rose adds that this has been "a huge pain point over the years", as screenshotting metrics is both inefficient and potentially inaccurate since screenshots can be falsified.

Instagram's power move

Since Instagram and Facebook control the flow of data on their platforms, this more active role in influencer partnerships could threaten the businesses of those who charge for similar matchmaking and performance metric services.

There are limits to influencer-casting only through the easily measurable metrics offered by Instagram, says Launchmetrics chief marketing officer Alison Bringé, whose "media impact value" algorithm helps brands measure their return on influencer activations. She says that sometimes engagement rates - like on the accounts of top models, for example - can be "terrible", but the association with major models can still provide legitimacy to a brand.

Conor Begley, co-founder and president of influencer marketing platform Tribe Dynamics, has found that the smartest brands look not only at an influencer's audience demographics but at whether or not they've expressed interest in the brand in the past. If Dior flies a fan to Paris, for example, this will motivate the brand's followers to support Dior on social in hopes that they, too, will be recognised by the brand, Begley says.

He adds that Instagram taking a more active role in sponsored influencer posts is a way for the platform to better control the experience and limit the amount of ineffective marketing that users see. "Instagram is going to be much better at making money with that post than the influencer will be," he says. "They can make sure that the best ad is shown to the right person at the right time. Instagram knows who those people are. And you do not."

Testing other metrics

Earlier this year, Instagram started testing hiding "like" counts from users other than the person who posted the content. Hiding likes, Rose says, will help people "feel like they can be their authentic selves on Instagram and that Instagram doesn't turn into a popularity contest".

She acknowledges that creators and businesses have said that this can make it hard to understand engagement. In response, she says Instagram is exploring new account settings that would let influencers choose if they want to share relevant engagement metrics, including like counts, with a business partner through the app.

Instagram is also still learning what insights are most important to creators and brands when people shop a brand's product that an influencer has tagged in a post. Creators and the brands they tag will be able to see engagement and shopping insights on a post, including how many people viewed or clicked on each product, as well as total impressions. "There's a lot of learning we have to do to better communicate the value that it brings," Rose adds.

Wilhelmina CEO Bill Wackermann, which created a standalone influencer division this year, says that, ideally, brands and creators would be able to see the same type of data that e-commerce stores see. "If their social media feed is a conceptual store, we have no information on how many people visited and saved and came back to purchase, or who purchased once before and never returned. If I go to Macy's, they have data on when I came back again two months later."

Rose says Instagram is working to build out its commercial opportunity without alienating users. "We want to give creators and brands the tools to be able to have a better experience in the way they share content with people," she says. "But we also don't want to make Instagram swing too far and become overly commercial. It's something that we're really thinking about: how do we give people the information that they want when they want it, but also protect their experience?"
To receive the Vogue Business Technology Edit, sign up here. Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com. More on this topic: Instagram without likes: What metrics brands need to look at Instagram users can now buy influencer looks. Eva Chen explains why Pinterest opens up its trove of consumer trends data

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Instagram wants to be a matchmaker between influencers and brands

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Instagram is testing a tool that facilitates brand-influencer partnerships through detailed insights on influencers and campaign audiences. The tool gives Instagram a more active role in influencer marketing, an anticipated $15 billion industry that has inspired the launch of adjacent agencies and marketing firms. The platform is in the process of learning which types of insights are useful for brands and creators when people shop on the platform.

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A new way to make an experience in-store
https://www.forbes.com/sites/bernardmarr/2020/12/18/the-future-of-virtual-reality-vr/?sh=7585007f27be

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Final slide - asymmetric dress gone up by 20%

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Final slide - high neck 80%, 105% chunky sweater, 30% classic shirt and 122% increase in florals

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Final slide - inclusivity graph
I found this graph very interesting as it backs up the thought process behind my gender neutral range targeting gen z.

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ASOS: Why use memes to connect to audience?

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ASOS: Why use memes to connect to audience?

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This short information helped me understand why brands use memes to connect to their audience: it provides light comedy.

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"A PIECE OF FABRIC, GARMENT HAS NO GENDER