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How to Make Homemade Natural Dyes

Before you toss that spinach that's starting to wilt or those orange peels from your lunch into the compost pile, consider saving them to make your own homemade natural dyes.

Homemade dyes are ideal for creating lovely shades in your dyed fabric, coloring Easter eggs, and making your own natural face paint. Best of all, making homemade natural dyes is easy and can save you money!

What You'll Need to Create Homemade Dyes

Fruit and vegetable scraps

Water

Small saucepans

Directions for Making Natural Dyes

1. Gather the fruit or vegetable scraps you're using to make your homemade natural dyes. You'll need about one cup of chopped scraps to make each color.

2. Add your chopped scraps to a small saucepan and cover with twice as much water. Simmer the scraps over medium heat for one hour.

3. Turn off the heat, and let the water cool down to room temperature.

4. Strain the dyed water into a glass container. You now have natural dyes ready to go.

5. If you want to dye fabric, you need to start by placing it in a fixative. For fruit dyes, simmer your fabric in four cups of water and 1/4 cup salt. If you're using vegetable dyes, simmer in four cups of water and one cup of vinegar. Then boil for one hour. Once you're done boiling, rinse the fabric in cold water. Finally, let it soak in the natural dye until it gets to the desired shade.

Color Ideas for Homemade Natural Dye

Red: Beets, raspberries, strawberries, red onion skins, cherries

Orange: Carrots, orange peels, onions

Yellow: Lemon peels, yellow apple peels

Green: Spinach, green apple peels

Blue: Red cabbage, blueberries, blackberries

Purple: Red onion skins, raspberries, blackberries

Pink: Beets, raspberries, blackberries

Feel free to experiment with different fruit and vegetable scraps to see what type of colors you can create for your homemade natural dyes!

More Eco-Friendly Tips

Now that you see how easy it is to make homemade dye, are you interested in learning even more simple eco-friendly tips? Then be sure to check out a few of our other popular posts:

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How to Make Homemade Natural Dyes - Earth Friendly Tips

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Before you toss that spinach that's starting to wilt or those orange peels from your lunch into the compost pile, consider saving them to make your own homemade natural dyes. Homemade dyes are ideal for creating lovely shades in your dyed fabric, coloring Easter eggs, and making your own natural face paint.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azo_dye

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In 2017 I received a grant from the Columbia Kootenay Cultural Alliance to research the traditional dye and textile plants used by the First Nations (Indigenous Peoples) of the Columbia Basin area. The Columbia Basin is located in the South Eastern corner of British Columbia and lies within the unceded territories of the Sinixt, Ktunaxa, Shuswap, and Okanagan Nations. My methods of research will include interviews, book research, and as much hands-on harvesting and experimenting as possible. This blog will serve as a field journal of sorts to share my research into the traditional dyes, techniques, and textile plants utilized by the Indigenous Peoples of this area.

For information on the Sinixt People's history, territory, and their ongoing fight with the Canadian government for existence, please check out these links.
http://www.firstnations.de/invasion/sinixt.htm http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/sinixt-first-nation-extict-court-treaty-rights-1.3872459
My first meeting with Sinixt elder Marilyn James and her daughter Taress Alexis took place at the Sinixt Community Pit House in Sept 2017. It was a breezy fall day and we sat outside to talk traditional dyes and textiles of the Sinixt People.

Neither Marilyn nor Taress are dye or textile practitioners, but they have the knowledge, passed down from their ancestors through generations of their people, and they were happy to share their knowledge with me.

I asked a few questions to get started and the interview quickly took on an organic storytelling exchange rather than a formulaic question and answer format. The technical information was scattered amongst tales of Sinixt legends and memories of grandmothers' stories and techniques.

I am so grateful for the open sharing of traditional knowledge Marilyn and Taress have granted me. I took so many notes that day and since then have been experimenting with some of the techniques and plants they told me about. Though spring is generally the best time to dig Oregon Grape roots, I couldn't wait to start experimenting so I commenced digging and dyeing right away.

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Oregon Grape, a traditional Sinixt dye. - Stravaigin Yarn Co.

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In 2017 I received a grant from the Columbia Kootenay Cultural Alliance to research the traditional dye and textile plants used by the First Nations (Indigenous Peoples) of the Columbia Basin area. The Columbia Basin is located in the South Eastern corner of British Columbia and lies wit

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Colour is a catalyst for sales success within the fashion industry; it is the first thing consumers notice about a garment. Before feeling the fabric, trying on for size, or considering the manufacturing processes, colour preference impacts the eye. According to Michael Braungart and William McDonough, on average, only 5% of the raw materials involved in the production and delivery processes is contained within a garment. It is therefore important that we also pay attention to the 95% of the material process that we do not see; a vast component of which is hidden water.

Thick, ink-like water flows through rivers surrounding garment factories; a toxic soup of chemicals discarded from the fashion industry's synthetic dye processes, filtering into the water systems of the planet. Why is colour - this fundamental component of fashion production - allowed to pollute water systems throughout the world? As much as 200 tonnes of water are used per tonne of fabric in the textile industry. The majority of this water is returned to nature as toxic waste, containing residual dyes and hazardous chemicals. Wastewater disposal is seldom regulated, adhered to or policed, meaning big brands, and the factory owners themselves are left unaccountable. Examples of synthetic dyes are disperse, reactive, acid and azo dyes. Natural dyes, meaning colour obtained from naturally occurring sources - are another source of colour for textiles, but these are rarely employed on industrial scales.

Azo dyes are a commercially popular colourant for textiles. They are popular because they can be used at lower temperatures than Azo-free alternatives, and achieve more vivid depths of colour. But some are listed as carcinogens, and under certain conditions, the particles of these dyes can cleave (producing potentially dangerous substances known as aromatic amines). Upon contact with the skin, these can be harmful to humans and pollute water systems. Legislation exists in certain countries, including EU member states and China, that prohibits the sale of products containing dyes that can degrade under specific test conditions to form carcinogenic amines, but low traces of these amines have still been found in garments.

Natural dyes are a frequently suggested alternative, but like many brands guilty of 'Greenwashing' their processes, natural dyes on an industrial level give the impression of good behaviour, whilst introducing pollution problems of their own...

With production levels continuing to rise, and consumer demand for colour failing to diminish, alternatives to the current dyeing methods and regulations for water processing must be imposed.
HOW DOES THIS POLLUTION HAPPEN?
Much of the water used within production is utilised during the dyeing phase. Post-production water containing residual dye, mordants, chemicals, and micro-fibres is expelled into water streams untreated. This is frequently through pipes untraceable back to source, meaning factories can commit this offence anonymously. These hazardous chemicals do not break down as they enter rivers then oceans, making their way around the world.

In China, over 70% of the rivers are polluted (River Blue Documentary), meaning many of their 1.4 billion population cannot access uncontaminated water Ground water is contaminated, rendering wells unsafe for collecting water for domestic consumption. Billions of tonnes of wastewater are expelled from factories untreated, lowering dissolved oxygen within waterways to levels unable to sustain life. For the communities surrounding China's Li River, and the factory workers handling these chemicals, exposure to toxic, potent and potentially deadly chemicals occurs on a daily basis.
WHO IS TO BLAME?
Western brands outsourcing the majority of their manufacturing are the main culprits, yet the impact of this devastating pollution is not experienced by the brands who perpetrate it. The rivers of high garment export countries are becoming unable to sustain life of any kind. Toxic to drink, an irritant when in contact with skin, and deadly to aquatic life, many of the rivers upon which communities rely are causing decreased life expectancies and increased health problems.

Professor Arjen Y. Hoekstra, creator of the water footprint concept explains the reality of the outsourcing of garment manufacturing to countries such as China and Bangladesh- two of the biggest exporters in the apparel industry:

"Many countries have significantly externalised their water footprint, importing water-intensive goods from elsewhere. This puts pressure on the water resources in the exporting regions". In this way, the offenders continue to live with safe water and ever-expanding wardrobes, ignoring their far away trail of water devastation.
COULD NATURAL DYES BE A SOLLUTION ON AN INDUSTRIAL SCALE?
This debate is not a simple one.

Natural dyes are derived mostly from plants, seeds, fruits, barks, lichens and in some cases, insects. Though natural dyes have connotations of wholesome, toxin free textiles, this is not necessarily the case. Like synthetic dyes, they require a lot of water during production.

Though the dye materials themselves are not pollutants to water, the chemicals employed to fix the colour to the fibres are. These fixative chemicals are called mordants. Ground water and river pollution would occur if metallic compounds were used as mordants and not disposed of responsibly; the same problem synthetic dyes create.
SIDE NOTE ON CHEMICAL MORDANTS... The term 'mordant', from the Latin term 'mordere', translates as 'to bite'. This is a fitting name, as the objective of a mordant is to bond the dye with the fabric. Shades achieved with natural dyes are rarely as vivid as synthetic alternatives, and fade quicker from sunlight and wash cycles. Perspiration and PH levels of the skin can effect the colours achieved by natural dyes. The obvious remedy to this is the application of chemicals as mordants to fix the dyes and improve their longevity, vibrancy and resilience. But isn't this defeating the object? Whilst relatively harmless compounds can be used as mordants on domestic levels, such as sodium chloride (table salt), and diluted acetic acid (vinegar), when metallic salts are used things become more complicated. Harmful and potentially lethal compound substances such as Potassium Dichromate (chrome), Stannous Chloride (tin), Copper Sulphate and Iron Sulphate are regularly used to achieve vivid shades with natural dyes.
Though the brilliance of these mordanted shades may be more commercial, these metallic substances effectively render the pollution free intention of natural dyes futile. It is possible to dispose of the chemically contaminated waste water safely, but this would require the same factory processing infrastructure that is currently lacking with synthetic dyes.

Without mordants, the colours achieved are more vulnerable to fading, potentially leading to shorter garment life. Indeed, these nuances in shade and the ever changing hues are arguably part of their beauty. The reality however is that whilst this is marketable where narrative engagement between consumer and textile lifecycles occurs, the fast fashion industry would unlikely engage with this.

Some natural dyes, known as Substantive Dyes, are high in tannins, which can adhere to fibres without the use of mordants. This is an area where small brands and start ups can utilise natural dyes, toxin free and enrich their designs with the narrative of sustainably produced colour. The history contained within natural dyes is an engaging consumer tool.

Many natural dyes are harvested from fragile environments, whilst agricultural land would also be necessary for production of industrial quantities of dye materials. Natural dye pigments only bond with natural fibres, meaning industries relying on petrochemical or regenerated yarns would not be able to use them. Best colour results are achieved on untreated protein fibres, with softer tones on cellulosic. Silk achieves vivid, sumptuous shades, but the silk industry is a point of animal welfare contention in itself. Therefore natural dyes create higher demands for raw materials, not just for the harvesting of dye sources, but for the processing of natural fibres. Treatments and finishes applied to natural yarns to improves fibre performance and extend garment life would also impact colour uptake.

Traceability in the supply chain of growing; harvesting and processing the raw materials present further issues. Indigo has a 5000 year history, from its beginnings as a dye stuff. Exploitation of the Indigo (blue) and Logwood (purple) trades was endemic in earlier centuries. Should natural dyes be employed again on industrial scales, the welfare of workers throughout the supply chain would have to be regulated in order to avoid the repetition of history. Sourcing from accredited suppliers and implementing strict regulations would be essential. As illustrated however, regulations across the fashion industry are inadequate and insufficient.

Important to consider too is the vast amount of land that would be required to grow enough natural dye stuffs to cater for the entire textile industry.

Natural dyes are therefore not a simple solution to the water pollution crisis but they do represent an important step. Different but equally important and challenging problems arise from their use.
WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN FOR THE FUTURE OF COLOURFUL FASHION?
The current textile dyeing systems are guilty of water pollution on a global scale. The waterways of our planet are ceasing to host life and endangering communities.

Factories claim costs of new infrastructure to process their water waste are too high, and with the fashion industry paying so little for their production to increase profit margins on their fast fashion, the factories are often unable to invest. Combined with this, a lack of education on the importance of the issue, and fundamentally a lack of care or compassion from the biggest brands contribute further to the crisis.

Putting pressure on brands for transparency in supply chains, and adjusting our expectations as consumers to purchase less and reject endorsement of fast fashion are ways we can individually make an impact. Green Peace's Detox campaign has gone a long way in pressuring brands to reduce and remove chemicals from their water processes, but Greenwashing is still prevalent amongst many retailers; more must be done. Looking past colourful aesthetics to the morality behind the creation of our clothes will facilitate positive change.

***
Beth Ranson is a practice-based knitted textile designer and researcher in biodegradable fibres. Motivated by problem solving in circular, sustainable design contexts, Beth occupies the space between design and sustainability theory: and it's an interesting space to be. As a specialist in the use of natural dyes, Beth researches the beauty held in their narrative, as well as their potential negative impacts on the environment.

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The true cost of colour: The impact of textile dyes on water systems

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We love fashion, but we don't want our clothes to come at the cost of people or our planet.

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Azo dyes is a general term which refers to a group of synthetic dyes composed of a chemical azo group. They are mainly produced in developing nations such as China, India, Korea and Argentina.

So you may now be wondering why you should care about these dyes. Azo compounds are widely used in the dyeing of every type of fibres, natural, artificial and synthetic in order to colour a variety of things; from textiles and plastics to cosmetics and food. In fact, studies have found that they are used in approximately 70% of all organic commercial dyes today. The issue however is that they have also been shown to have extensive environmental and health consequences.
Why are they used?
Azo dyes are used so commonly as they are able to dye the cloth at a lower temperature than azo-free dyes. They also offer a wider range of colours, allowing for brighter clothing, which will not run in the wash. This means that the colour of the clothes that you buy will last longer, and is easier to produce for the company as it requires lower temperatures.
What's wrong with them? Health
Approximately 4- 5% of Azo dyes can cleave to form compounds known as aromatic amines, which are potentially dangerous to human health and have therefore been regulated. They are considered to be dangerous as there has been a relation found between these aromatic amines and cancers. Specifically, they have been seen to cause bladder and liver cancers.

These Azo dyes can come into contact with human bodies through three different pathways: inhalation, ingestion and dermal absorption. In regards to textiles, the dermal absorption would be the most relevant, especially in regards to textiles that come in direct contact with skin and sweat. For example, if you wear a t-shirt for a day that is created with azo-dyes, it will sit on your skin for many hours, and the azo-dyes will slowly be absorbed into your skin. If for any reason you sweat, the azo-dyes will begin rapidly leaving the shirt, and will rub off of the shirt.
Environmental
Azo dyes practically do not degrade under natural environmental conditions. When the waste water has been released from the factory, it will bio-accumulate in the environment. Posing issues not only in the water which it has been released into, but also affecting the entirety of the ecosystem. For example, Azo dyes have been connected to growth reduction, neurosensory damage, metabolic stress and death in fish, and growth and productivity in plants. Contamination of the water which is released from these factories therefore effects downstream water use, not only in terms of drinking water for humans and animals, but also negatively effecting any farming, fishing or tourism and recreation industries.

In 2007, a study linked an Azo dyeing plant as one of the sources of mutagenic activity detected in the Cristais River in Brazil, a source of drinking water for 60,000 locals. Though the drinking water was treated in a plant 6km downstream of the discharge site, testing confirmed the presence of carcinogenic aromatic amines after it had been released from the treatment plant, and was considered to be safe. This was unknown prior to the testing, and may have had health impacts upon the 60,000 people who had previously relied on this water.

One of the issues with Azo dyes is that it looks clear when it is released and therefore the polluted nature of the water cannot be seen when you first look at it, making them hard to detect until they it is too late. In addition, these Azo dyes will sometimes accumulate in a concentrated sludge, posing a significant secondary disposal problem, which can produce toxic end-products, meaning that these products are hard to dispose of, especially in places with limited resources. The economic resources required to clean up some of this environmental damage are huge, and companies do not want to spend more money than necessary. With the lax environmental regulations in these areas, companies are creating
Regulations?
The harmful effects of Azo dyes have not gone unnoticed. In 2002, the European Commission put regulations in place which limited the use of azo dyes which, "may release one or more carcinogenic aromatic amines that may come into direct and prolonged contact with the human skin or oral cavity." Regulations have also been implemented in other first world countries, such as Canada and the United States, but for the most part have not been regulated abroad.

Although the effects of using Azo dyes has been shown to be extremely damaging to local people and ecosystems, the regulations have been lacking in producing countries. Little equivalent regulations are present oversees and the expulsion of hazardous dyes. The expulsion of dyes into the environment has continued despite mounting evidence that this continued practice is damaging local ecosystems, with potential detriment to human health and wellbeing.This means that although they have been regulated in certain countries, they have not been regulated in many of the countries where the production is taking place. Therefore the impact of Azo dyes on countries such as China and India can not be discounted.

Overall, Azo dyes have severe environmental impacts as well as health impacts not only on the local community, but also on anyone who is coming into contact with products created by Azo dyes. They are harmful, and the regulations that have been put in place are not addressing many of these major issues. New regulations should be put into place to address these concerns, to protect not only the consumer but also the people producing the textiles and those in the surrounding environment who will be affected by the waste. The time for Azo dyes to be common in our clothing has passed, we need to make a change in order to get rid of this harmful product.

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Why We Need To Get Rid Of Azo Dyes - Trusted Clothes

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Azo dyes is a general term which refers to a group of synthetic dyes composed of a chemical azo group. They are mainly produced in developing nations such as China, India, Korea and Argentina. So you may now be wondering why you should care about these dyes.

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The textile industry is reported to be one of the worst causes of water pollution in the world and continues to have a disastrous impact on the environment. Lately, fast fashion has dominated and reshaped the fashion industry and critics cite its negative environmental impact such as water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing levels of textile waste. As the industry grows, the environmental damages increase.

Clothing is made up of various types of materials. The clothes we buy appeal to us because of its vibrant colors, prints and fabric finishes but many of these are achieved with toxic chemicals. Next to agriculture, textile dyeing is the second largest cause of water pollution, contaminating clean water globally. The presence of hazardous chemicals has been reported after tests were done on products of some fashion brands, according to Greenpeace. Many of these chemicals are already banned or strictly regulated in various countries because they are toxic, bio-accumulative, disruptive to hormones and are carcinogenic.

Polyester, the most popular fabric used for fashion, breaks down in washing machines leading to the build up of microplastics in the water system. When polyester garments are washed in domestic washing machines, they shed microfibers that add to the increasing levels of plastic in the ocean. These microfibers are minute, thus can easily pass through sewage and wastewater treatment plants into the waterways. They are a serious threat to aquatic life because they do not biodegrade. Small creatures such as plankton eat the microfibers working their way up into the food chains to fish and shellfish which humans eat.

Many factories also dump untreated chemicals in the rivers. Dumping of textile chemicals used mostly for dyeing fabrics has made rivers uninhabitable for fish and other animals. And many people depend on rivers for drinking water, washing and bathing. They also need the water to irrigate their lands.

Cotton which is the most common natural fiber is a highly water intensive plant. It requires high levels of pesticides to prevent crop failure. The documentary "True Cost" has shown the devastating impact of toxic chemicals in agriculture such as those used in growing cotton. The report disclosed the death of a US farmer from brain tumour and the serious birth defects found in children of Indian cotton farmers.

Most cotton grown worldwide is genetically modified to be resistant to the ballworm pest. However, this can create problems such as the emergence of "superweeds" which are resistant to standard pesticides. To ensure high yields, cotton crops are treated with more toxic pesticides which are harmful to livestock and humans.

It is indisputable that the production and distribution of the crop, fibers and garments for fashion has caused a devastating impact on the environment. The large scale of the fashion industry and the growing quantity of fabrics that are produced for clothing each year is what makes its destruction of the environment so widespread. One measure that can help protect the environment is buying less new clothes unless they are really needed. This in a way can make the industry more environmentally sustainable.

Fortunately, many international clothing brands waking up to the compounding effects of the textile industry and has recognized it as one of the major causes of water pollution. Fashion brands are looking to improve their own supply chains and production processes. A coalition of retail companies, apparel and shoe manufacturers, fashion houses, non-profits, and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency launched a new organization called The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). It aims to develop improved sustainability strategies and tools that allows shoppers to see how well their clothing items sustainably produced without negatively impacting the planet.

If you are a municipality in Ontario and in need of a biosolids management solution, please feel free to contact us on 1 (877) 479-1388.

Sources:
https://apparelcoalition.org/
http://www.chinawaterrisk.org
https://www.independent.co.uk

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Textile Industry, One of the Major Causes of Water Pollution

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The textile industry is reported to be one of the worst causes of water pollution in the world and continues to have a disastrous impact on the environment. Lately, fast fashion has dominated and reshaped the fashion industry and critics cite its negative environmental impact such as water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing levels of textile waste.

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Dr. Mercola and Rebecca Burgess Talk About the Hazards of Synthetic Dyes

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Introduction:

Dyeing and finishing processes in the textile industry have attracted a lot of attention lately as the concept of sustainable and eco-friendly textiles and garments are gaining popularity. Here we will focus today on eco-friendly textile methods which are a widely discussed topic for the present.

The textile industry is the second largest polluting industry in the world. For centuries, the global textile industry has been working to strike a balance between economic development and environmental protection. That is why the use of water resources and environmental protection in textile production has become a major concern. Conventional dyeing methods require a lot of water and most of the toxic waste mixes with the water to contaminate the water which is harmful to the environment and in this case the cost of processing for recycling water is also very high. Besides, due to the toxicity of dyes and chemicals used in textile dyeing and improper disposal of such wastes, many workers have developed skin diseases and respiratory problems. And this can be made possible by the use of chemical-free dyeing and the assimilation of environmental processes.

The synthetic dyes used in textile dyeing are thought to be responsible for about 20 per cent of the world's water pollution. The main contributors to this problem are the use of non-biodegradable petroleum-based colourants for dyeing textiles, toxic agents used in colour fixing in textiles and the release of these coolants and fixation agents in our surrounding ecosystems. Because of these problems, the dyeing industry is now looking for new methods of garment dyeing that will be environmentally friendly and sustainable.

Some sustainable dyeing methods invented for eco-friendly textile dyeing:

Currently, the textile dyeing industry favours the use of halogen and heavy metal-free, very high extraction and fixation value dyes. Some of the newly invented dyeing methods are discussed below:

Use of natural dyes:

We all know that natural dyes or natural dyes are environmentally friendly. Natural pigments have anti-bacterial (anti-bacterial) and anti-fungal (anti-fungal) properties. This is why dyeing clothes with natural dyes reduces the attack of bacteria and fungi which protects the wearer from various diseases. Natural pigments are usually made using plants (fruits, bark, stems), algae, minerals, bacteria, fungi, marine animals such as starfish and are substituted for synthetic or synthetic pigments and have medicinal properties. Nowadays, colouring from different types of fruits is gaining popularity.

For example, the colouring method of cotton fabric from watermelon extract has been successful. It is an environmentally friendly cotton colouring method. This method consumes relatively less energy and requires less chemical helper. Thus the use of natural dyeing can drive the development of herbal dyeing methods in the textile dyeing industry and this method is not only bio-degradable but also helps in making anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic fabrics.

Fig : Fabric colouring with rose petals

Fig : Colours made from bacteria

Hybrid Pigment:

Eco-foot has created an unimaginable colouration industry by chemically combining polymer particles and pigments to create a hybrid pigment that can react with cellulose fibres at temperatures up to 250 C. With this hybrid pigment, garments made of cotton can be easily dyed at low temperatures. With this, it is possible to dye the wool more ecologically. In this technology, dyeing will be possible without the use of salt. Eco foot has also discovered some dyeing aids that are capable of preventing the hydrolysis of pigments during dyeing processing. This eliminates the need for a hard-washing process to remove the hydrolyzed pigment. This will save about 50 per cent of the water used in hybrid pigments and dyeing aids that were used during the preparation and dyeing process.

Use of Powder Dyes from Textile Fib re:

An Italian company, Officina +39 (officinal + 39), has come up with a new invention of sustainable dyeing, a durable range of dyes (resicrome) made from textile scrap, fibre material and recyclable clothing. Although most dyes are used as chemical solutions, resistome is applied as a suspension. This facilitates water filtration and reduces environmental impact.

Cotton Pre-Treatment:

For cotton pre-treatment, about 200 litres of water is required for dyeing 1 kg of fabric. That is why a new cotton pre-treatment method has been invented where cotton is pre-treated with a cationic reagent called ECO-FAST Pure. Using this apparent technology, it is possible to reduce the amount of water used in the cotton dyeing process by as much as 50 per cent. Pre-treated cotton with Eco-Fast Pure has higher pigment retention capacity and does not require any fixation chemicals to retain the pigment. In this way, it is estimated that it is possible to reduce the use of toxic chemicals by 95 per cent.

Engineered microorganisms:

This method modifies the bacteria in a way that plays an important role in textile colouration and reduces the amount of water used in this method by 10 times the traditional method. A team of researchers from the University of California has developed a denim dice called indican using E. coli bacteria that can be easily converted to indigo through enzymatic treatment.

Some new innovative dye and auxiliaries:

Hustman Textile Effects has developed the 'Avitera', a row of polyreactive dice made of cotton that can form fibrous bonds faster than conventional reactive dice.
It could dramatically reduce water and energy consumption by about 50 per cent.
Univadine E3-3D, a dyeing aid that enhances the diffusion of dye into polyester, is free of hazardous chemicals that are made following current and expected industrial durability standards.

Carbon dioxide dyeing (CO2 dyeing) - a sustainable dyeing method:

A game-changer for supercritical fluid dyeing or carbon dioxide dyeing sustainable dyeing. It does not require any water or effluent. For many textile producing countries, the scarcity of water and its accompanying material has become increasingly difficult. The supercritical carbon-dioxide dyeing method uses less water and energy than the conventional dyeing method and also takes less time for dyeing. On the other hand, in the case of polyester dyeing, if this carbon-dioxide dyeing method is used with Disperse dye, very good dye fixation and levelling are obtained without structural agents or auxiliaries. It is non-toxic compared to the solvent dyeing method and it can be widely recycled.
Fig : Carbon-dioxide dyeing method
Conclusion:

Innovations in the textile dyeing sector are very promising and environmentally friendly but still have many obstacles to overcome. Cold dyeing, dry heat fixation, and vegetable tanning are some of the processes that textile manufacturers can use to develop eco-friendly garments. Can play an important role in reducing usage.

Resources:

1. https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7250/eco-textile-dyeing-and-finishing

2. https://bunon.info/

3. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/324214252_Eco-friendly_dyes_and_dyeing_You_may_download_the_paper_from_the_following_link_httpsciedtecheujournalsadvmtenvscicurrent-issue

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Eco-Friendly Textile Dyeing Process | Textile Study Center

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Eco-Friendly Textile Dyeing Process Introduction: Dyeing and finishing processes in the textile industry have attracted a lot of attention lately as the concept of sustainable and eco-friendly textiles and garments are gaining popularity. Here we will focus today on eco-friendly textile methods which are a widely discussed topic for the...

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9 DIY natural plant dyes | Botanical Eco-friendly fabric dyes | Vinegar vs Alum for colorfastness

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Here on Green Mom, we've discussed the dangers of food dyes and some brilliant natural alternatives to chemical food dyes. Today, let's cover natural fabric dyes. From those unnaturally neon-bright colors to the dangers of added flame retardants, there are many good reasons to try dyeing your fabrics at home.
A 2014 study conducted by the Environmental Working Group and Duke University found evidence of exposure to TDCIPP, a cancer-causing flame retardant, in the bodies of all 22 mothers and 26 children tested. In the children, the average concentration of a chemical biomarker was nearly five times higher than the average concentration in the mothers. Young children are particularly susceptible to the toxicity of flame retardant chemicals.

Do you have any idea what's in a typical bottle of Rit dye? They're not sharing, but it does have this ominous warning:
"Eye irritant. Contains salt (sodium chloride). Avoid contact with eyes. Wash thoroughly after handling. First aid: in case of eye contact immediately flush with water for 15 minutes. Call physician. Keep out of reach of children."
Read enough? Let's get started! First, you'll need clean, untreated fabric. Natural fabrics like cotton, silk, linen or wool absorb dyes far better than synthetics do. Soak the fabric overnight so it is fully saturated. This helps the fabric pick up color evenly.
Next, decide on your color(s) of choice and gather your dye ingredients. Onion skins are a very common and easy-to-use dye, and you're repurposing something that would otherwise be discarded (unless you're composting). Onion skins release their color easily and produce lovely shades of pale yellow to deep amber. Here are some other options you can try:

Yellow/Orange: Yellow onion skin, Turmeric, Marigolds, Zinnias, Calendula, Carrot peelings, Lemon peels

Red/Pink: Avocado pits, Prickly Pear, Annatto Seeds, Strawberries, Beets, Pomegranates, Cranberries, Cherries, Hibiscus flowers

Blue/Purple: Purple cabbage, Blackberries, Blueberries, Purple grapes, Purple iris

Green: Frozen spinach, Artichokes, Nettle

Beige/Brown: Coffee grinds, Boiled acorns, Walnut hulls

Grey/Black: Red onion skin, Sumac leaves, Walnut hulls, Meadowsweet

Now, place one part chopped ingredient to two parts water in a large stainless steel pot. Bring to a boil and simmer for one hour. Then add one part vinegar and four parts water to the pot. Use a strainer to remove the solids. Bring dye back to a boil, add wet fabric, and reduce heat to simmer for one hour, stirring occasionally. After an hour, if you're happy with the color, you can remove the fabric; or for deeper color, remove the pot from the heat and let it soak overnight. Rinse fabric in clear cool water. Hang to dry.

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DIY Natural Fabric Dyes - The Zero Waste Family™ chemical free

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Here on Green Mom, we've discussed the dangers of food dyes and some brilliant natural alternatives to chemical food dyes. Today, let's cover natural fabric dyes. From those unnaturally neon-bright colors to the dangers of added flame retardants, there are many good reasons to try dyeing your fabrics at home.

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some wikipedia websites have a simplified version of all the information on the page. go to the url and replace the (en) with (simple) !! doesnt work for every article !!

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Belgian brand Komrads is set to market the first trainers made from the fermented pulp of apple peel.

The textile industry is one of the highest polluting in the world, from the raw materials to the manufacture, not forgetting the transport of the finished product and recycling. A number of initiatives are gradually being created to make the fashion industry ethically and ecologically responsible. One of these is Belgian, namely apple leather trainers. No, you are not dreaming!

This is an innovation by the Belgian brand Komrads, which has been producing sustainable trainers, among other things, since 2015. Komrads worked on this new product for a year and a half and now has a prototype, which will soon be ready to market. These new trainers, the Komrads World, have a limited ecological footprint whilst also being fashionable and affordable. "It looks like traditional leather, but is 100% vegetarian and ecological," explained Mark Vandevelde, the brand's founder.

Production does not require the extraction of raw materials. The sole is made of 100% recycled leather from car tyres, which is then coloured with organic paint. The apple leather is made in Italy, where the apple peel pulp is fermented into high-quality leather. Lastly, the shoes are made under fair conditions in Portugal.

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Trainers made from apple leather: a Belgian invention

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The textile industry is one of the highest polluting in the world, from the raw materials to the manufacture, not forgetting the transport of the finished product and recycling. A number of initiatives are gradually being created to make the fashion industry ethically and ecologically responsible.

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The Futurecraft Loop performance running shoes can be returned to Adidas, where they will be ground up to make more shoes, again and again.

So, recycling is a mess. Manufacturers have sold us on the idea that it's the consumer's responsibility to recycle the manufacturer's product, ostensibly relieving the manufacturer of responsibility for all the trash their products generate. Meanwhile, despite many of us trying our best to uphold our end of the deal, recycling is complicated - and in the end, 91 percent of plastic, for example, is not recycled.

Given plastic's nearly eternal durability, it's little wonder that we're finding it literally everywhere on the planet. And we keep making new plastic at a prodigious rate - National Geographic notes that "If present trends continue, by 2050, there will be 12 billion metric tons of plastic in landfills."

As consumers we can stop consuming things made of and packaged in plastic, but manufacturers have to address the issue from the top - quite simply, the time has come.

Which brings us to Adidas.

The Futurecraft Loop

I was invited to the unveiling of the company's revolutionary new performance running shoe, the Futurecraft Loop - and to be honest, I was a bit skeptical. Billed as a 100 percent recyclable shoe .... well, we've heard claims like this before (hello Starbucks, hi there Keurig).

But I have to say, I am impressed. Yes, the mystical/futuristic event in the Brooklyn Navy Yard, complete with a fog machine and Willow Smith (who is partnering with Adidas on the project), left some stars in my eyes - but I left feeling genuinely excited about the future of the Futurecraft Loop.

Adidas is no stranger to sustainability innovations. In 2015, the company partnered with Parley for the Oceans to create shoes whose uppers were made entirely of yarns and filaments reclaimed and recycled from marine plastic waste and illegal deep-sea gillnets. This year, they will produce 11 million pairs of these wonderfully "trashy" shoes through intercepting plastic waste on beaches, remote islands and in coastal communities.

At the Futurecraft Loop event, Eric Liedtke, Executive Board Member at Adidas and head of Global Brands, said that an "army of innovators" had been working on the new shoe for more than six years - and described how much of a challenge it was. These are performance shoes, afterall, and have many parts that need to best serve the athlete/wearer.

How It Works

What has made the recycling of shoes - and most things - difficult is that the various materials of an item need to be separated prior to recycling. How did Adidas solve this problem? They figured out how to make the shoe with a single material (100 percent reusable thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU)) - and it is constructed without the use of adhesives or other chemicals. The TPU is spun to yarn, knitted, molded and clean-fused to a midsole.

Once the user is done with the shoes, they are returned to Adidas, where they are washed, ground to pellets and melted into material for components for a new pair of shoes, with zero waste and nothing thrown away.

"Futurecraft Loop is our first running shoe that is made to be remade," said Liedtke. "It is a statement of our intent to take responsibility for the entire life of our product; proof that we can build high-performance running shoes that you don't have to throw away."

Liedtke also says that the company is aiming to be using only recycled polyester in all of their products by 2024.

"Taking plastic waste out of the system is the first step, but we can't stop there," said Liedtke. "What happens to your shoes after you've worn them out? You throw them away - except there is no away. There are only landfills and incinerators and ultimately an atmosphere choked with excess carbon, or oceans filled with plastic waste. The next step is to end the concept of "waste" entirely. Our dream is that you can keep wearing the same shoes over and over again."

For now, the first generation Futurecraft Loop has been rolled out as part of a "global beta program with 200 leading Creators from across the world's major cities," to take the shoes for a spin. This was the part of the event where 200 pairs of sneakers magically appeared - I was wondering why they wanted my shoe size beforehand.

Now those of us with the shoes will put them to the test before returning them with feedback ahead of the second generation drop. The target for the wider release is Spring Summer 2021. In the meantime, I am planning on testing mine hard ... and finding solace in the fact that this will be just one of the many lives they'll lead. Stay tuned for more...

More at Adidas.

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Adidas Unveils Running Shoes That Never Have to Be Thrown Away

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The Futurecraft Loop performance running shoes can be returned to Adidas, where they will be ground up to make more shoes, again and again. So, recycling is a mess. Manufacturers have sold us on the idea that it's the consumer's responsibility to recycle the manufacturer's product, ostensibly relieving the manufacturer of responsibility for all the trash their products generate.

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The life cycle of a t-shirt - Angel Chang

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"Don't waste it, wear it!" The future of fashion marketing campaigns!
In recent years we have seen innovative materials entering the world of fashion. A new revolution is underway, and thanks to new technologies, we are now able to transform by-products of the food industry in precious resources for the fashion industry. Today I would like to share five sustainable alternatives to conventional leather made from food waste. These materials are 100% vegan and are a great substitute to both mass-produced leather and petroleum-based synthetic fabrics.
VEGEA - "WINE LEATHER"
Vegea textile is a vegan leather alternative made from vegetable raw materials and winemaking by-products. The company aims to produce a bio-based fabric as an alternative to animal and oil-based synthetic leathers, to be used in fashion, design, automotive and packaging industries.
The material created by Vegea just feels like conventional leather and has similar properties. It should be added that the production process of "wine leather" doesn't require any water nor any toxic chemicals or heavy metals that are usually use in the tanning process of conventional leather.

Imagine the impact that this leather alternative could have considering that 27/28billion litres of wines are produced around the world annually.

Image credit: Vegea

MALAI - "COCONUT LEATHER"
Malai is a startup which "developed a biocomposite material made from entirely organic and sustainable bacterial cellulose, grown on agricultural waste sourced from the coconut industry". The utilization of the agricultural waste prevents the blockage of the local drainage system, water pollution as well as the acidification of the soil. In addition by using the waste product, Malai offers a second income to the local communities.

Coconut leather feels similar to conventional paper or leather. It is durable, flexible, resistant to water and it doesn't contain any plastic coating or synthetic ingredients which, makes it biodegradable. It is available in different colours which are obtained by using natural dyes. This material is customisable to meet a wide range of thicknesses and textures, and it can be used to create seamless three-dimensional objects.

Image credit: Honza Zima - Malai leather

PIÑATEX - "PINEAPPLE LEATHER"
Piñatex is a natural and sustainable textile made from the fibres of pineapple leaves which are a by-product of the fruit industry. The physical properties are very similar to these of conventional leather.

By using the discarded by-products Piñatex has created a new source of income for farming communities who otherwise may only rely on the seasonal pineapple harvest. In addition, once the fibers has been extracted from the leaves, the leftover biomass can be converted into a fertiliser or biofuel, which constitutes another benefit for the farmers. Like leather it can be used to manufacture goods including shoes, handbags and upholstery. Needless to say it is also 100% cruelty free.
MYCOWORKS - "MUSHROOM LEATHER"
MyCoWorks is a San Francisco based start up which produces vegan leather made from mycelium and agriculture byproducts. The material in customisable. It can be grown into nearly any size or texture. It is strong, flexible, durable and water-resistant. The 'mushroom leather' can easily and rapidly be grown from organic discarded material in a carbon-negative process, and it is 100% biodegradable.
THE APPLE GIRL - "APPLE LEATHER"
The Apple Girl is a start up from Denmark that uses by-products from the apple juice and the cider industry to make vegan "apple leather". This material is 100% biodegradable, requires only 1l of water for the production of 1 m of fabric and it is completely made from natural ingredients. It can be rigid or flexible depending on the requirements, and it can be also be laser cut. The material is under development, however you can pre-order some samples to support the project.

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5 Leather Alternatives Made Out Of Food Waste - 1410DESIGN

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"Don't waste it, wear it!" The future of fashion marketing campaigns! In recent years we have seen innovative materials entering the world of fashion. A new revolution is underway, and thanks to new technologies, we are now able to transform by-products of the food industry in precious resources for the fashion industry.

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Circular Economy - What is circular design?

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Circular Economy - What is circular design?

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Explaining the Circular Economy and How Society Can Re-think Progress | Animated Video Essay

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Environmental & Ethical Issues with Natural Fabrics

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Environmental & Ethical Issues with Natural Fabrics

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Many of us tend to believe that natural fibres, being products of nature, are naturally better than their synthetic counterparts. However, this isn't always the case.

The production of most natural fibres such as cotton, wool and silk have their fair share of environmental and ethical issues too - it's just that 'natural' is often associated with 'good'. Although the impact on the environment, workers and animals or plants involved in the production varies for each fibre, the impacts nevertheless exist.

The production process of non-organic cotton, for instance, is chemical-intense and this extensive use of toxic agents has been linked to severe health problems in farmers who grow it amongst a plethora of other environmental and social atrocities. Cotton is not alone here - every natural fibre has a background story that deserves attention for anyone who has concerns around human and environmental health.

image courtesy of the Sustainable Cotton Project

Join me, as I go into the details of various environmental and ethical issues that are part of the very first stages of production of natural fibres like cotton, wool and silk.

Environmental issues associated with raw material production

Cotton farming involves large quantities of chemicals in the form of pesticides, insecticides, herbicides and fertilisers. Fertiliser factories are major sources of air, soil and water pollution. Furthermore, chemical nitrate fertilisers used in cotton fields transform into nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas that contributes to global warming. Intensive cotton farming also involves huge quantities of water, that leads to soil salinisation and decreased soil fertility.

Healthy soil should support life and be full of air, moisture and organic matter. Chemicals destroy soil.

The cotton plant attracts many insects and pests, and hence farmers use large quantities of pesticides and insecticides to protect the crop. This high use of chemicals in cotton farms has resulted in the appearance of resistant pests and secondary infestation that farmers have to cope with over time.

Before cotton plants are harvested, they are subjected to chemical defoliation to remove the leaves. Here, the plants are sprayed with a chemical defoliant once 60% of the bolls open. Another chemical treatment accelerates the opening of bolls. Chemical desiccants may also be used to remove water from the plant and prepare it for harvest.

Heavy machines like spindle pickers and strippers are used for harvesting. Ginning, where the cotton fibre is separated from the cotton seed, is done using saw gins. Heavy physical pressure also compacts soil, removing air, which is absolutely vital to soil quality and its ability to support crops and ecosystems in the future.

Wool production has its concerns too

The wool industry also has a significant environmental footprint. Large herds of sheep are raised for obtaining fibres on a commercial-scale. This livestock is responsible for the rise in greenhouse gases, as the natural life processes of these animals, like enteric fermentation, result in methane emissions.

In the case of animals such as mink raised for their fur, their fecal content has high levels of phosphorus. These wastes are usually dumped into water bodies. This, as well as toxic gases like ammonia that such farms release into the air, contribute to environmental pollution.

Sheep husbandry within the wool industry, particularly in Australia with sheep imported from Europe, resulted from traditional farming methods being unable to cope with hotter, drier climates. The simple fact that intensive cross-breeding had to take place shows us how the unsuitability of certain farming practices will not defeat the need to capitalise on land and commercial expansion. This continuation of widespread sheep-farming, as with crops, has created monocultures which deplete soil and ecosystem biodiversity. This poses a threat to current and future food production as soils are less fertile. Of course with livestock rearing there is the need for fodder crops to be grown in bulk, which now take up 50% of the world's farmland.

Social and ethical implications of raw material production.

The picture is just as dismal when we consider social and ethical aspects of raw material production of natural fibres. Farm workers on cotton farms are exposed to toxic chemicals used in crop production. Some small farmers have limited knowledge and inadequate equipment to handle such strong chemicals. Continued exposure to these poisonous substances leads to several health problems over time. The medical complications and associated expenses end up being an added burden for the farmers.

The chemicals are neurological disruptors and are blamed for causing brain tumours and cancer. It is no coincidence that there are numerous cancer treatment centres in the towns of the American South where commercial cotton has long been widespread.

It looks harmless, but commercial cotton poses a deadly threat to human and environmental life

Moving on to the wool industry, which is a hub of rampant animal welfare issues. Sheep on commercial wool farms are carelessly sheared in haste, often injuring the animals and causing severe pain. Instances where the skin, tail and ears are ripped off during the process are common. In Australia, Merino sheep are subjected to a terribly painful procedure called 'mulesing', where skin from the back is cut off to keep away flies. Imagine the torture these silent animals undergo, in the absence of painkillers or care after the procedure. A number of such disturbing scenarios can be viewed in this video, and further details are available on the PETA website. Sheep do officially in fact have rights too.

Commercial, large-scale wool farming can result in careless treatment of these gorgeous creatures.

Examining silk farming also reveals ethical issues

The silk industry is also infamous for how fibres are extracted from the silkworm. Although silk has lesser environmental impact when compared to other natural fibres, the process is gruesome.

The domesticated silkworm has been bred in captivity for so long, that it evolved into a blind moth which cannot eat. The insect survives for four or five days, during which time it lays its eggs. Silk fibres are extracted from the cocoon that the larvae build around themselves. To avoid damage to the silk by the moth that emerges, cocoons are boiled during the larva stage itself to kill the insect inside it.

These little darlings are our silk worms - and in traditional commercial silk production they would have been killed by boiling water in the silk production process.

Fortunately, there is a cruelty-free option. Ahimsa or Peace silk is spun from cocoons after the pupa hatches and escapes as a moth.

Peace silk production ensures the moths live to emerge from their cocoons!

Here at Offset Warehouse we are also fortunate enough to have found some wonderful Peace silk farms so that we can bring you the epitome of peaceful and beautiful luxury in fabric form!

Hand Woven Peace Silk Satin. This vegan fabric is a 100% natural silk, with no additives, adulterants, bleaches or finishes, making it organic too!

We also stock a wide range of textiles made from organic cotton. Here are just a few of my favourites.

Beige Basket Weave Cotton - A chunky organic, Fair Trade cotton in its undyed, natural beige colour.

Soft Black & White Hand Woven Stripe - organic and Fair Trade!

Dark Blue Denim - organic and Fair Trade

We should consider every stage, from production to use and disposal, when determining a fabric's eco-credentials and social impact. In this regard, conventional fibres like virgin cotton have a higher environmental impact than synthetic fibres like recycled polyester. So, don't be misguided into choosing a fabric just because it is natural. Instead, look for genuine Fair Trade and organic certifications, for these are the actual benchmarks of sustainability and ethics. If you would like a keep informed about sustainable and ethical textiles, then please do sign up to our monthly newsletter, where I roundup all the latest posts. You'll also be the first to know about our discounts, offers, workshops, special events and networking meet-ups.

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Environmental and Ethical Issues In The Production Of Natural Fabrics and Fibres

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Many of us tend to believe that natural fibres, being products of nature, are naturally better than their synthetic counterparts. However, this isn't always the case. The production of most natural fibres such as cotton, wool and silk have their fair share of environmental and ethical issues too - it's just that 'natural' is often associated with 'good'.

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Silk is a highly renewable resource with less impact on the environment that many other fabrics. The silk worms feed on mulberry leaves, which don't require the use of pesticides or fertilizers to...

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We think fabric is the elephant in the room. Such a soft, almost insubstantial product actually gobbles up resources and makes a much larger environmental impact than most people think. It's one of those counterintuitive facts, like Reno being further west than Los Angeles. Although the production of textiles is carbon intensive, there are certainly best choices you can make if you want to minimize your carbon contribution.

First, any natural fiber is much preferable to any synthetic fiber - and among natural fibers, any organic fiber ¹ is preferable to any conventional (that is, not organic) fiber.

Let's look at how much energy it takes to make a few products to demonstrate what we mean. Energy needed to make each product is measured in mega joules (MJ). You see below that it takes more than three times the energy to create one kilogram (KG) of virgin steel than one KG of linen ². This makes sense, intuitively, because steel seems so substantial compared to linen:

What about those decorative, soft, supple, lightweight fabrics made of polyester? The energy needed to produce one kilogram of steel pales in comparison to the energy needed to produce 1 KG of polyester fabric:

Acrylic is worse, and nylon worse still:

You would have to keep nylon fabric 62.5 times longer than linen fabric if you wanted to neutralize the carbon footprint choice of the nylon over time. And these calculations are for conventional linen. Organic linen has a lighter carbon footprint than conventional linen.

Everyone seems to think that upholstered sofas carry all their embodied energy in the wood frame and the foam cushioning. But this is wrong. If you choose synthetic fabric for your sofa, then the carbon footprint of the fabric alone exceeds the carbon footprint of both the foam and the wood frame combined. This is true even if you use soy foam. (Please contact us for information about this product, soy based foam, which we feel is not an improvement over polyurethane.) ³ Please refer to the graph below. What this graph shows is that the wood and foam combined has a carbon footprint that is less than the carbon footprint of the fabric alone if you use synthetic fabric. This holds true even if you use soy foam as opposed to polyurethane (all plastic) foam.

Another concern regarding the production of synthetics, beyond the amount of carbon dioxide (CO2) created in production, are the kinds of gasses produced. Nylon, for example, creates emissions of nitrous oxide (N2O), which is 300 times more damaging than CO2 ⁴ and which, because of its long life (120 years) can reach the upper atmosphere and deplete the layer of stratospheric ozone, which is an important filter of UV radiation. In fact, during the 1990s, N2O emissions from a single nylon plant in the UK were thought to have a global warming impact equivalent to more than 3% of the UK's entire CO2 emissions. ⁵

What about organic fibers? From the table below, you can see the total amount of CO2 emitted in the creation of one ton of spun fiber (in KG) ⁶ is lower by far if your choice is organic fiber:

Natural fibers, in addition to having a smaller carbon footprint in the production of the spun fiber, have additional benefits:

Because they are able to be degraded by microorganisms and composted, they improve soil structure; in this way the fixed CO2 in the fiber will be released and the cycle closed. Synthetics do not decompose: in landfills they release heavy metals and other additives into soil and groundwater. Recycling requires costly separation, while incineration produces pollutants - in the case of high-density polyethylene, 3 tons of CO2 emissions are produced for every single ton of material burnt.⁷

They sequester carbon - sequestering is the process through which CO2 from the atmosphere is absorbed by plants through photosynthesis and stored as carbon in the plant's leaves, stems, branches, roots, etc.

Substituting organic fibers for conventionally grown fibers is not just a little better - but lots better. In fact, according to Paul Hepperly, Research Director of the Rodale Institute, organic agriculture is an undervalued and underestimated climate change tool that could be one of the most powerful strategies in the fight against global warming. ⁸ Taking it one step further beyond the energy inputs and the reduction of CO2 emissions, organic agriculture also:

Conserves water, making the soil more friable so rainwater is absorbed better, lessening irrigation requirements and erosion.

Ensures sustained biodiversity.

And compared to forests, scientists are finding that the microorganisms in the soil are a more secure carbon sink than what grows on it; forests, for example, are vulnerable to logging and wildfires.

¹ As in third party certified to an organic standard. "Organic" can be used loosely to refer to any molecule containing carbon. That is not what we mean by organic.

² Information on common building materials is from GreenSpec; fiber information from "Ecological Footprint and Water Analysis of Cotton, Hemp and Polyester", Stockholm Environmental Institute on behalf of the BioRegional Development Group, 2005

³ Click here to see how we arrived at these calculations.

⁴"Tesco carbon footprint study confirms organic farming is energy efficient, but excludes key climate benefit of organic farming, soil carbon", Prism Webcast News, April 30, 2008, http://prismwebcastnews.com/2008/04/30/tesco-carbon-footprint-study-confirms-organic-farming%E2%80%99s-energy-efficiency-but-excludes-key-climate-benefit-of-organic-farming-%E2%80%93-soil-carbon/

⁵ Fletcher, Kate, Sustainable Fashion and Textiles, Earthscan, 2008, Page 13

⁶"Ecological Footprint and Water Analysis of Cotton, Hemp and Polyester", Stockholm Environment Institute on behalf of the BioRegional Development Group, 2005

⁷"Why Natural Fibers", FAO, 2009: http://www.naturalfibres2009.org/en/iynf/sustainable.html

⁸The Rodale Institute Farming Systems Trial (FST) soil carbon data (which covers more than 30 years) provides convincing evidence that improved global terrestrial stewardship-specifically including regenerative organic agricultural practices-can be the most effective currently available strategy for mitigating CO2 emissions. http://rodaleinstitute.org/our-work/farming-systems-trial/

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We think fabric is the elephant in the room. Such a soft, almost insubstantial product actually gobbles up resources and makes a much larger environmental impact than most people think. It's one of those counterintuitive facts, like Reno being further west than Los Angeles.

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You might think you know which fabric is superior; you may even have debated the issue. But do you know which is better for the environment? The confusion lies in the fibre itself. Cotton is natural and polyester is synthetic. Natural has become synonymous with green and clean. So cotton is better, right? Not entirely.

Let's be honest textiles are toxic to produce, energy consuming and water intensive given the raw materials required to produce them.

Cotton can be replanted and is therefore renewable but this doesn't count for much if it is not grown sustainably. Cotton production contributes to an inconceivable amount of global pesticide and insecticide use. Organic cotton is fantastic in that does not use these but it is still incredibly water intensive, often diverting water away from communities. Cotton irrigation is a major contributor in the depletion of the Aral Sea.

Polyester requires less water but is more energy intensive requiring wood and oil to produce, thereby contributing to global warming from harmful greenhouse gases. Polyester however, is 100% recyclable and in some countries, like Japan, garment recycling is possible through recycling centres. This will hopefully be undertaken by many more countries, until perhaps recycling our polyester clothes will become as commonplace as recycling other paper and plastic products. In addition to being recyclable, polyester fibres are now starting to be produced from post-consumer and post-industrial recycled materials.

Combining all these factors it is easy to assume that there is no clear winner for the environment in terms of production and perhaps there isn't. But a garment's ecological footprint does not end once it is produced. To derive a meaningful evaluation the life-cycle of the product must be assessed. For apparel this can include low-impact maintenance, as it is the energy and water consumption expended over the lifetime of a garment that must be considered.

Polyester is more stain-resistant. It can be washed in cold water and dries quickly. Cotton garments waste energy. They must be washed more frequently as they are less stain-resistant, often require hot water to remove stains and need to be tumble-dried to dry in a comparable time frame. Synthetic fabrics like polyester do not lose their shape like cotton and therefore increase their wear life, further reducing environmental impacts.

The nature of clothing and seasonal fashion means that the textile industry is a major contributor of global warming. The industry needs to become eco-conscious and as with all solutions there needs to be a multi-pronged strategy. Until manufacturers and growers are required to factor in environmental costs, products that do less damage will cost more. It is up to us as consumers to dictate demand. The real challenge is not people switching from natural fibres to synthetic ones as we have been wearing polyester for decades now. The real challenge lies in convincing the consumer to pay for more ecologically sustainable clothing. Would you?
About the Author:
Art Activist is the owner of an ethical t-shirt design and printing business. brand resistant is a business model for the future. Evolving from social, environmental and political passion, we hope to use the power of words and images to effect change. http://www.brandresistant.com
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Cotton Fabrics, Organic cotton, Polyester Fabrics, Fibre2fashion.com

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comparison between Cotton Fabrics and Polyester Fabrics are given. Cotton Fabrics is natural which consumes energy. Polyester Fabrics are synthetic. It r is more stain-resistant. Organic cotton is fantastic in that does not use these but it is still incredibly water intensive, often diverting water away from communities.

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Learn about a fabric's production and disposal in order to make an informed choice while shopping.

Every piece of clothing has an impact on the environment, but the big question is how much of an impact? Shoppers concerned about the entire life cycle of their clothing should learn about the production process that goes into making fabrics and where they end up after use, as some are harder on the planet than others. The following guide to fabrics is hardly comprehensive, but it's a good introduction to points worth considering next time you're out shopping.

Linen is a plant-based fabric made from flax which can be grown on rough terrain that's unsuitable for food production. It can be cultivated and processed﻿﻿ without chemicals, though this is more commonly found in Europe and less so in China. Summer Edwards, the knowledgeable voice behind sustainable fashion blog Tortoise & Lady Grey, writes:

"Conventional linen is processed into fiber from the raw flax crop through a process of water-retting. This involves soaking the flax crop in rivers or waterways, and results in a high amount of pollutants making their way into the waterways. These include residual agro-chemicals, as well as natural waste. There are more eco-friendly method of processing. These are dew-retting and enzyme-retting. These processes turn the raw [crop into fiber while] avoid(ing) the water pollution associated with the water-retting process."

Cotton is a natural plant-based fiber used in clothing, furniture, and other textile blends, such as rayon and synthetics. It is a durable, breathable, and highly versatile fabric. It is also biodegradable, which is a huge plus, considering the damage being caused by synthetic fabrics.﻿﻿ More on that below.

Cotton, however, uses a tremendous amount of water (almost 3 percent of global water use), pesticides (7 percent of all chemicals used for agriculture in the U.S.), and arable land (2 percent globally).﻿﻿ In other words, it's a resource hog. Organic cotton can improve the chemical effect, but it tends to require more land because crop yields decrease.

If you're comfortable with the fact that wool is an animal product, this could be an environmentally friendly option. Wool is tough, wrinkle-resistant, resilient (which means good at retaining its original shape), and it can absorb signifiantly more moisture than cotton and other materials before feeling damp.﻿﻿ It holds colorful dyes easily, without use of chemicals.

Wool can replace many of the water-resistant synthetics and polyester fleeces that feature prominently in outdoor gear without fear of microfiber shedding - which, one could argue, wreaks havoc for wildlife down the food chain, despite being vegan.

The biggest issue with wool is the methane emissions from burping sheep. Over 60 percent of wool's carbon footprint comes from the sheep themselves, as opposed to other fabric industries whose larger emissions hail from the fabric production process.﻿﻿ These sheep, however, are usually raised on non-arable land.﻿﻿

4. RAYON & MODAL

These man-made fabrics are made from cellulose. In the case of modal, the cellulose comes from softwood trees, and viscose rayon is usually bamboo. While the raw crop is biodegradable, the chemicals required to transform it into fabric, including carbon disulfide, are unsafe.﻿﻿ The New York Times explains:

"Chronic exposure to carbon disulfide can cause serious health problems for rayon workers, including Parkinson's disease, premature heart attack and stroke, said Dr. Paul Blanc, a professor of medicine at the University of California, San Francisco, who has written about the history of rayon. The chemicals may also be released into the environment, though the effects are harder to pinpoint. By the time the rayon gets to the store, it poses no danger to consumers, Dr. Blanc said."

The source of cellulose is also questionable. The fabric for rayon clothes made in China likely comes from countries where old-growth rainforests are being destroyed to make way for bamboo, planted specifically for textile manufacturing.﻿﻿

If the fabric is processed mechanically, rather than chemically, it has a much smaller impact. This is called 'bamboo linen' but it's harder to find and more expensive.

5. POLYESTER

Polyester clothing is very popular. People like it for its stretchiness, durability, and comfort, but it's important to remember that it's a plastic manufactured from crude oil (an energy-intensive process). Even though some manufacturers are adding recycled polyester, often sourced from plastic bottles, to their fabrics, these have the same environmental repercussions as new polyester, which researchers are only just starting to understand.

What we know now is that every wash releases plastic microfibers into waterways and these persist indefinitely, contaminating lakes and oceans and getting ingested by animals and, indirectly, by humans.﻿﻿ The New York Times writes:

"Even if these microplastics are trapped at filtration plants, they can end up in sludge produced by the facilities, which is often sent to farms to be used as fertilizer. From there, the fibers can make their way into other water systems, or into the digestive tracts of animals that graze on the fertilized plants."

A good quick intro to the microfiber pollution problem is this video from The Story of Stuff.

Choose organic fabrics whenever possible. These are more expensive, which means you'll likely buy less - but that's a good thing, too. We need to break free from the fast fashion mentality that encourages rapid turnaround times on trends and a quasi-disposable attitude toward clothes.

Fashion bloggers Ellie and Elizabeth at Dress Well Do Good share the following advice:

"We believe that a key part of ethical fashion is buying clothing that we plan to get a lot of use out of, clothing that won't end up in the trash or donation pile a few months down the road. To do so, we need to select fabrics that we will enjoy wearing - that feel good next to our skin - and that will last."

Or, as Carrie Bradshaw once said, never buy anything that's less than fabulous. Then you know you'll wear it over and over again.

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Learn about a fabric's production and disposal in order to make an informed choice while shopping. Every piece of clothing has an impact on the environment, but the big question is how much of an impact?

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How to Start a Standout Awareness Campaign

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How to Start a Standout Awareness Campaign

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How to Start a Standout Awareness Campaign

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Looking to increase awareness of your organization, but don’t know how to start a campaign?Here are 5 key steps to planning a standout awareness campaign.