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Buying a new computer is a lot like ordering a pizza: You think it's a fairly simple task until you realize how many choices you need to make.

But if your existing machine is so old it could barely run solitaire, you're probably due for an upgrade.

The good news is two-fold: there are many new exciting developments in the computer space, and there are many deals to be had over Black Friday, Cyber Monday and leading up to the holidays.

Aside from figuring out your budget, of course, the following are some questions you might want to ask yourself to help decide what's right for you.

More: Best apps to save you money over Black Friday and beyond

More: The best Black Friday deals you can get right now

More: Black Friday 2017: What to buy, what to skip

What will I use it for?

How you plan on using your new computer should dictate what kind to buy.

If you only want a computer for light tasks - such as Web browsing, reading email, and checking on social media - then you could go with modest specifications (specs), which should have a modest price, too. Something with an Intel Core i3 or i5 should be sufficient.

On the other end of the spectrum, if you're looking for a machine that can handle high-end computer games, virtual reality or video editing, you'll need to invest in a faster processor, better graphics capabilities, and more RAM (system memory). An Intel Core i7, NVIDIA graphics, and 16GB or 32GB of RAM (instead of 4GB or 8GB) is a good idea.

When it comes to storage, more and more laptops have a solid-state drive (SSD) instead of a hard disk drive (HDD), which makes these laptops thinner, lighter, faster and more energy efficient. Like the flash memory in your smartphone, SSDs are also less prone to damage because there are no moving parts.

That said, I like to say purchasing a computer should be like buying kids clothes: go a little bigger than you need today, so you can grow into it for longer-term savings. You don't want to have "buyer's remorse" by picking something underpowered, only to replace it in a year from now.

Stick with a brand you've had a good experience with, or ones your friends and family highly recommend (and critics, too).

What OS should I go with?

This question may also be tied to the "What will I use it for?" decision, especially if there's software you want to run that only works with a specific operating system (OS).

Otherwise, you've got three main choices today: Windows, Mac and Chromebook. (Yes, there's Linux, too, but not a mainstream pick.)

Stick with the operating system you're most comfortable with. If you're not sure, or feel like a change, know that each OS has its advantages.

►Windows 10 is the most popular choice today. It's offered by nearly all the biggest computer brands - such as Dell, HP, ASUS, Lenovo, Acer and so on - plus Microsoft makes their own Surface-branded PCs, too. It's easy to use, works with the most software and hardware out of any OS, and the Windows Hello feature means you can log onto your device by simply looking at your computer's camera. Windows 10 offers multiple ways to interface with your content, whether it's a keyboard, trackpad or mouse; using a stylus pen on the screen for greater precision (often called "digital inking"); fingertips on a touchscreen; or by using your voice with the Cortana personal assistant.

► Apple's Mac family are also a popular pick. Since Apple is the only one that manufacturers Macs - like the MacBook Air and MacBook Pro - there is generally better quality control, and built with premium materials. Macs tend to last a long time (but not their chargers), though Macs cost more, on average, when compared to Windows and Chromebooks with comparable specs. Many find them easier to use than other operating systems (thought that boils down to personal preference, of course). Apple includes many of its top software for free (or a free download from the Mac App Store), plus there is a lot of software for Macs today, too.

► Powered by Google's Chrome OS, Chromebooks are generally more affordable than Windows and Macs, but there are some premium Chromebooks available, such as Google's own Pixelbook ($999), which includes Google Assistant for voice interaction. Chromebooks usually ship with popular Google apps already preinstalled, such as Gmail and Google Maps. Generally speaking, Chromebooks have modest specs, such as little local storage, but most Google apps are cloud-based anyway. Chrome OS is billed as a lean, fast operating system, designed for mostly basic tasks, and with good value.

What form factor do I choose?

If it's been a while since you shopped for a laptop, you'll notice many are incredibly thin and light, making them much easier to carry around with you to and from coffee shops, the office, school, airplanes, and so on.

Many Windows-based laptops are "2-in-1s," as they can transform from a laptop to a tablet and back again. Some 2-in-1s are called "convertibles" as they convert from laptop mode to tablet by simply bending back the screen, which is on a 360-degree hinge, and disables the keyboard in favor of tapping and swiping the screen. While less popular, other 2-in-1s are called "detachables" as the screen detaches altogether, which you can then bring with you as a tablet.

While laptops are often preferred because they're portable, stationary desktop computers might be more ideal for younger kids. Why? If you put it in a highly trafficked area of the home, you can keep an eye on where they're going online. They're usually less expensive than laptops and harder to break since they're less mobile.

Many of today's desktops are often "all-in-ones," which is when the computer is built into the back of the large monitor, so there's no tower to take up additional space. Ideal to place anywhere in a home - such as a kitchen counter, in a home office, or a teenager's room - many all-in-ones have a touchscreen and often ship with a wireless keyboard and mouse.

But if you're buying a desktop for a gamer, an all-in-one isn't as modular, since it's not so easy to update storage, memory or graphics cards. Instead, a tower setup may be best for a gamer.

As you can see, there's a lot to decide when buying a new computer - it's not a one-size-fits-all scenario - but along with how much you have to spend, ask yourself these three questions to help you whittle down your options.
Follow Marc on Twitter: @marc_saltzman. E-mail him at askmarcsaltzman@gmail.com.
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How to pick a new computer, from Chromebooks to PCs to MacBooks

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CLOSE Buying a new computer is a lot like ordering a pizza: You think it's a fairly simple task until you realize how many choices you need to make. But if your existing machine is so old it could barely run solitaire, you're probably due for an upgrade.

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Finding your next computer doesn't have to be a chore.

If you're looking for something you can easily carry to and from work, or bring with you on vacation, then a lightweight laptop could be in order. These weigh just a couple of pounds, have batteries that can now last several workdays before needing to be charged, and have more than enough power to tackle common productivity tasks like browsing the web and editing office documents. Some models, known as convertibles, can be used as a tablet of sorts by bending the keyboard backward and behind the screen using a 360-degree hinge.

A desktop may be a smarter and more ergonomic pick, however, if you're setting up a home office and aren't worried as much about mobility. Staring into a monitor puts less strain on your neck than staring down into a laptop. You also generally get more power per dollar spent with a desktop than you do with a laptop.

Some models come with a built-in display, while others require you to supply your own. Luckily, you can find good computer monitors for reasonable prices. In fact, while all-in-one models with a screen tend to be aesthetically pleasing and take up less desk space, they can cost a lot more than buying a desktop computer and monitor separately.

Mac or PC? It's really up to you. You'll find models on both platforms that score well in our labs. They'll support the most popular software options, too, from Adobe Photoshop to Chrome, Slack to Zoom. But there are benefits to pairing a Mac with an iPhone or an Android phone with a PC. You may be able to answer a text message with your keyboard, for example, or share copy-paste data between a computer and a smartphone.

For more, check out the full computer ratings based on our latest tests results, available to Consumer Reports members.

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Finding your next computer doesn't have to be a chore. If you're looking for something you can easily carry to and from work, or bring with you on vacation, then a lightweight laptop could be in order.

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Compact enough to carry with you, yet versatile enough to run demanding applications, a laptop is the best tool for doing serious work or play at home and on the road. While standalone tablets and smartphones are always popular, most people realize that everything from typing a research paper to crunching video to gaming works better on a laptop. So what type of laptop should you get?

There's a wide variety of sizes, features and prices, which makes choosing the right laptop a challenge. That's why you need to figure out what your needs are. To make the right call, just follow these steps.

1. Pick a Platform: Mac, Windows or Chrome OS?

This is not an easy question to answer, especially if you're not familiar with both Macs and PCs. But this quick overview of each platform's strengths and weaknesses should help.

Most laptops come with one of three operating systems: Windows, Chrome OS or Mac OS X (for MacBooks only). Choosing the right one is a personal preference, but here's a quick summary of what each offers.

Windows 10

The most flexible operating system, Windows appears on many more makes and models than Chrome OS or Mac OS X. Windows notebooks range in price from under $150 to several thousand dollars and offer a wide array of features from touch screens to fingerprint readers to dual graphics chips. Windows 10, the latest version of Microsoft's flagship operating system, provides a number of improvements over Windows 7 and 8, including the ability to switch between tablet and desktop modes, a revamped Start menu with live tiles and the powerful Cortana digital assistant. Since its launch in July 2015, Windows 10 has also added a host of improvements, including the ability to use follow-up questions with Cortana, search your email using natural language and use your stylus to scribble almost anywhere.
MORE: 100+ Windows 10 Tips to Help You Master Microsoft's OS
Apple macOS Sierra

All MacBooks come with Apple's latest desktop operating system, macOS Sierra. Overall, the operating system offers similar functionality to Windows 10, but with a different take on the interface that substitutes an apps dock at the bottom of the screen for Microsoft's Start menu and taskbar. Instead of the Cortana digital assistant, Mac users get Siri. They can also perform transactions with Apple Pay, take calls or texts from their phones and unlock their laptops with an Apple Watch. However, macOS isn't made for touch, because no MacBook comes with a touch screen.
MORE: MacBook Air vs MacBook Pro: What Should You Buy?
Chrome OS

Found on inexpensive "Chromebooks" such as the Lenovo 100S Chromebook, Google's OS is simple and secure, but limited. The user interface looks a lot like Windows with an application menu, a desktop and the ability to drag windows around, but the main app you use is the Chrome browser. The downside is that many of the "web apps" you use don't work particularly well offline.

However, the operating if you need a device to surf the Web and check email, navigate social networks and chat online, Chromebooks are inexpensive and highly portable, and they offer good battery life. Google is also slowly adding support for Android apps , with a handful of Chromebooks able to run Google Play today.
MORE: Best Chromebooks Available Now
2. Decide If You Want a 2-in-1

These days, many PC laptops fall into the category of "2-in-1s," devices that can switch between traditional clamshell mode, tablet mode and other positions in between such as tent or stand modes. The 2-in-1s generally come in two different styles: detachables with screens that come off the keyboard entirely and flexible laptops with hinges that bend back 360 degrees to change modes. Most of these systems are much better at serving one purpose than the other, with bend-backs being laptops first and detachables offering a superior tablet experience. However, if you don't see the need to use your notebook as a slate, you'll usually get more performance for your money and a better productivity experience with a traditional clamshell laptop.

If you decide you want a 2-in-1, note that bendables usually have far better battery life than their detachable brethren.
MORE: Windows Detachables Have Big Battery Life Problem
3. Choose the Right Size

Before you look at specs or pricing, you need to figure out just how portable you need your laptop to be. Laptops are usually categorized by their display sizes:

11 to 12 inches: The thinnest and lightest systems around have 11- to 12-inch screens and typically weigh 2.5 to 3.5 pounds,

13 to 14 inches: Provides the best balance of portability and usability, particularly if you get a laptop that weighs under 4 pounds.

15 inches: The most popular size, 15-inch laptops usually weigh 4.5 to 6.5 pounds. Consider this size if you want a larger screen and you're not planning to carry your notebook around often.

17 to 18 inches: If your laptop stays on your desk all day every day, a 17- or 18-inch system could provide you with the kind of processing power you need to play high-end games or do workstation-level productivity.

4. Check That Keyboard and Touchpad

The most impressive specs in the world don't mean diddly if the laptop you're shopping for doesn't have good ergonomics. If you plan to do a lot of work on your computer, make sure the keyboard offers solid tactile feedback, plenty of vertical travel (distance the key goes down when pressed, usually 1 to 2mm) and enough space between the keys.

Look for an accurate touchpad that doesn't give you a jumpy cursor and responds consistently to multitouch gestures such as pinch-to-zoom. If you're buying a business laptop, consider getting one with a pointing stick (aka nub) between the G and H keys so you can navigate around the desktop without lifting your fingers off the keyboard's home row.

5. Pick Your Specs

Notebook components such as processor, hard drive, RAM and graphics chip can confuse even notebook aficionados, so don't feel bad if spec sheets look like alphabet soup to you.

Here are the main components to keep an eye on.

CPU: The "brains" of your computer, the processor has a huge influence on performance, but depending on what you want to do, even the least-expensive model may be good enough. Here's a rundown.

Intel Core i5: If you're looking for a mainstream laptop with the best combination of price and performance, get one with an Intel Core i5 CPU. Models that end in U (ex: Core i5-7200U) are the most common. Those with the a Y in the name are low power and have worse performance while models with an HQ offer four cores. Intel's latest-generation, "Kaby Lake" CPUs have model numbers that begin with 7 (ex: Core i5-7300U) so look for those to get the best performance.

Intel Core i7: High-end performance for gaming rigs and workstations. Models with numbers that end in HQ or K use higher wattage and have four cores, allowing for even faster gaming and productivity. There are also Core i7 Y series chips that have lower power and performance. Keep an eye out for CPUs that have a 7 in the model number (ex: Core i7-7820HQ) because they are part of Intel's latest, 7th Generation Core Series, and offer better performance.

Intel Core i3: Performance is just a step below Core i5 and so is the price. If you can possibly step up to a Core i5, we recommend it.

AMD A, FX or E Series: Found on low-cost laptops, AMD's processors -- the company calls them APUs rather than CPUs -- provide decent performance for the money that's good enough for web surfing, media viewing and productivity.

Intel Atom: Found on very low-cost laptops -- think $250 and under -- Atom offers basic performance but more battery life than Celeron/Pentium.

Intel Pentium / Celeron: Common in sub $400 laptops, these chips are a little faster than Atom, but offer worse battery life. If you can pay more to get a Core i3 or i5, you'd be better off.

Intel Core m / Core i5 / i7 "Y Series" -- Low-power and low heat allow systems with these processors to go fanless. Performance is better than Celeron, but a notch below regular Core i5 U series.

Intel Xeon: Extremely powerful and expensive processors for large mobile workstations. If you do professional-grade engineering, 3D modeling or video editing, you might want a Xeon, but you won't get good battery life or a light laptop.

MORE: Which Laptop CPU is Right for You?

RAM: Some sub-$250 laptops come with only 2GB of RAM, but ideally you want at least 4GB on even a budget system and 8GB if you can spend just a little more. For most users, 16GB or more is overkill.

Storage Drive (aka Hard Drive): Even more important than the speed of your CPU is the performance of your storage drive. If you can afford it and don't need a ton of internal storage, get a laptop with a solid state drive (SSD) rather than a hard drive, because you'll see at least three times the speed and a much faster laptop overall.
Among SSDs, the newer PCIe x4 (aka NVME) units offer triple the speed of traditional SATA drives. Sub-$250 laptops use eMMC memory, which is technically solid-state but not faster than a mechanical hard drive.

Display: The more pixels you have, the more content you can fit on-screen, and the sharper it will look. Most budget and mainstream laptops have 1366 x 768 displays, but if you can afford it, we recommend paying extra for a panel that runs at 1920 x 1080, also known as full HD or 1080p. Some higher-end laptops have screens that are 2560 x 1600, 3200 x 1800 or even 3840 x 2160, which all look sharp but consume more power, lowering your battery life.MORE: Why 78 Percent of Laptop Screens Suck

Touch Screen: If you're buying a regular clamshell laptop, rather than a 2-in-1, you won't get much benefit from a touch screen and you will get 1 to 3 hours less battery life. On 2-in-1s, touch screens come standard.

Graphics Chip: If you're not playing PC games, creating 3D objects or doing high-res video editing, an integrated graphics chip (one that shares system memory) will be fine. If you have any of the above needs, though, a discrete graphics processor from AMD or Nvidia is essential. As with CPUs, there are both high- and low-end graphics chips. Nvidia maintains a list of its graphics chips from low to high end, as does AMD.

DVD/Blu-ray Drives. Few laptops come with optical drives, because all software and movies are downloadable. However, if you really need to read / write discs and your laptop of choice doesn't come with a built-in DVD drive, you can always buy an external one that connects via USB for under $20.

6. Don't Skimp on Battery Life

If you're buying large, bulky notebook that you'll use only on a desk near an outlet, you don't have to worry about battery life. However, if you plan to use the laptop on your lap, even if it's at home and or work, you'll want at least 6 hours of endurance, with 8+ hours being ideal. To determine a notebook's expected battery life, don't take the manufacturer's word for it. Instead, read third-party results from objective sources, such as our reviews.
MORE: Laptops with the Longest Battery Life
7. Plan Based on Your Budget

These days, you can buy a usable laptop for under $200, but if you can budget more, you'll get a system with better build quality, stronger performance and a better display. Here's what you can get for each price range.

$150 to $250: The least-expensive notebooks are either Chromebooks, which run Google's browser-centric OS, or low-end Windows systems with minimal storage and slower processors, such as the HP Stream 11 and the Lenovo Ideapad 100S. Use these as secondary computers only or give them to the kids.

$350 to $600: For well under $600, you can get a notebook with an Intel Core i5 or AMD A8 CPU, 4 to 8GB of RAM, and a 500GB hard drive, all respectable specs. However, at this price, most notebooks don't have an SSD, a full-HD display or long battery life. There are a few noteable exceptions, such as the Asus VivoBook E403Sa and Lenovo ThinkPad 13.

$600 to $900: As you get above $600, you'll start to see more premium designs, such as metal finishes. Manufacturers also start to add in other features as you climb the price ladder, including higher-resolution displays and SSDs.

Above $900: At this price range, expect notebooks that are more portable, more powerful or both. Expect higher-resolution screens, faster processors and possibly discrete graphics. The lightest, longest-lasting ultraportables, like the Apple MacBook and the Dell XPS 13, tend to cost more than $1,000 (although you can get the Dell for less if you don't opt for a touch screen). High-end gaming systems and mobile workstations usually cost upward of $1,500 or even as much as $2,500 or $3,000.

8.Mind the Brand

Your laptop is only as good as the company that stands behind it. Accurate and timely technical support is paramount, which is why Laptop Mag evaluates every major brand in our annual Tech Support Showdown. This past year Apple came in first place, followed by HP and Samsung.This past year Apple came in first place, followed by Microsoft and Samsung.

Support is only part of what makes a notebook brand worth your money. You also have to consider how the manufacturer stacks up to the competition in terms of design, value and selection, review performance and other criteria. In our 2015 Best and Worst Laptop Brands report, Apple placed first, followed by Dell and HP.
MORE: Best and Worst Notebook Brands
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Avram Piltch, LAPTOP Online Editorial Director

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Compact enough to carry with you, yet versatile enough to run demanding applications, a laptop is the best tool for doing serious work or play at home and on the road. While standalone tablets and smartphones are always popular, most people realize that everything from typing a research paper to crunching video to gaming works better on a laptop.

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Dell is a direct partner to businesses and consumers that delivers innovative technology and services.

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An input device is any hardware device that sends data to a computer, allowing you to interact with and control it. The picture shows a Logitech trackball mouse, which is an example of an input device.

The most commonly used or primary input devices on a computer are the keyboard and mouse. However, there are other devices that input data into a computer.

Types of input devices

Audio conversion device

Barcode reader

Biometrics (e.g., fingerprint scanner).

Business card reader

Data collection device

Digital camera and digital camcorder.

EEG (electroencephalography)

Finger (with touch screen or Windows Touch).

Gamepad, balance board, dance pad, joystick, paddle, steering wheel, pedals, and Microsoft Kinect.

Gesture recognition

Graphics tablet

Guitar, MIDI keyboard, or other musical instrument connected to the computer.

Magnetic ink (like the ink found on checks).

Magnetic stripe reader

Medical imaging devices (e.g., X-ray, CAT scan, and ultrasound images).

Microphone (using voice speech recognition or biometric verification).

MIDI keyboard

Motion-sensing mouse or game controller

Mouse, touchpad, or other pointing devices.

OMR (optical mark reader)

Pen or stylus

Punch card reader

RFID reader

Sensors (e.g., heat and orientation sensors).

Sonar imaging devices

Stylus (with touch screen).

Touch-sensitive pad (like pad on early iPod)

Touch screen

Voice (using voice speech recognition or biometric verification).

Video capture device

Virtual device

VR helmet and gloves

Although OMR cards and punch cards contain data, they are not considered input devices by themselves. It is the readers that interpret the cards that are considered an input device.

What are the input devices of my computer?

Every computer comes with a keyboard and a mouse ( touchpad with laptop), which are considered input devices. As far as other input devices, it depends on what was included with your computer and what's connected to the computer. The best method of determining all of the input devices your computer has is to go through the list above.

What does an input device send to a computer?

What an input device sends (inputs) to a computer depends on the device. Additionally, all input devices send data from the device over a cable or wireless transmission to the computer. For example, as you move a computer mouse, the data sent to the computer is the X-Y axis movements used to display the mouse cursor on the screen. You can see a live example of this on our x-axis definition.

Why does a computer need an input device?

Today, input devices are important because they are what allows you to interact with and add new information to a computer. For example, if a computer had no input devices, it could run by itself but there would be no way to change its settings, fix errors, or other various user interactions. Also, if you wanted to add new information to the computer (e.g., text, command, document, picture, etc.), you wouldn't be able to do so without an input device.

Input devices for physically challenged users

In addition to the list mentioned above, other specially designed input devices are designed for the physically challenged. Below is a list of examples of these devices.

Eye-tracking - A specialized camera to track a user's eye to perform actions or move a mouse pointer.

Foot mouse - Mouse pointer controlled using pedals with your feet.

Gesture recognition - Specialized device to detect different gestures, including facial expressions, reading lips, and sign language.

Head-mounted pointer - A pointer can be mounted to a hat or band to track and control the mouse pointer.

Joystick - A joystick next to the computer or on a wheelchair to control a mouse pointer. It's possible these joysticks could be operated using your chin, lips, or tongue for people with no head movement.

Voice recognition - Using your voice to control computer functions and typing on a computer.

Hardware terms, HID, Input, Input/output device, Keyboard terms, Mouse terms, Output device, Pointing device

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An input device is any hardware device that sends data to a computer, allowing you to interact with and control it. The picture shows a Logitech trackball mouse, which is an example of an input device. The most commonly used or primary input devices on a computer are the keyboard and mouse.

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AMD's disruptive Ryzen processors and Intel's supercharged 8th-gen Core CPUs have sparked a wave of interest in PC building, but some people still hesitate at the idea of crafting a custom PC. Don't! Building your own PC isn't some arcane art or esoteric skill that only the most hardcore of hardware geeks can pull off. In fact, assembling a DIY PC is pretty straightforward once you've settled on your parts list.

Rolling your own computer offers a number of advantages that boxed desktops just can't match, even though inflated component prices have made DIY computers less of a deal these days. You still get granular control over every single aspect of the hardware. You still get to choose not only the nuts-and-bolts-level details like processing and graphical performance, but also deeply personal touches like the PC's case design and cooling capabilities. There's no need to settle for a boring black box, unless you want a boring black box.

Looking to build a hulking PC brimming with top-of-the-line hardware and closed-loop water-cooling? Go for it! (If you can convince your significant other to OK the expense, that is.) Or maybe you prefer a more well-balanced rig, or a delightfully small system with big gaming chops. When you're building your own computer, the choice is yours.
[ Further reading: The best SSDs ]
Brad Chacos

We built this PC with a liquid-cooled 8-core AMD Ryzen chip and Nvidia's powerful GeForce GTX 1080 Ti.

Even better, when you're building your own PC you can shop around for the best price for each of your chosen components, rather than paying a single marked-up cost for the whole-hog system. AMD's new Ryzen processors have sparked a brutal price war in CPUs. DIYers can benefit from that! The superb PCPartPicker.com website makes comparison shopping dead simple. And when you're done building your PC and successfully power it up, it feels glorious -like you've truly accomplished something, rather than simply yanking a prebuilt tower out of a box.

Building a PC for the first time can be intimidating, though.

Even though PC assembly's fairly simple once you know what you're doing, staring at a giant pile of disparate parts and knowing you not only need to piece them together correctly but also wire them correctly afterwards is enough to bring a lump to a newbie PC builder's throat.

We're here to help.

PCWorld has detailed installation guides-often with supplementary buying advice-for every major PC component you need. This comprehensive superguide explains how to build your PC from top to bottom, from case fans to CPU to cable management.

Need help installing a particular component? Here are links for each piece of hardware in your PC:

How to avoid common PC building mistakes -a must-read before you even buy your first part.
How to install or replace a case fan How to install a power supply in your computer How to install an Intel or AMD CPU in your PC How to install new memory in your PC How to replace your PC's motherboard How to install a graphics card How to install a hard drive in your PC
The ultimate guide to proper PC cable management -you want your PC looking nice and pretty, after all.

Even veteran PC builders stumble into trouble every now and again (though our guide to avoiding common PC building mistakes should help you avoid most of it). If your system won't start after it's all together, check out PCWorld's guide to troubleshooting your home-built PC. It's a few years old, but still very applicable today. And once everything's up and running, consider checking out these free programs that your new PC needs first. They all rock!

Then sit back, relax, and enjoy a cold beverage. You just built a PC with your own two hands. That wasn't so hard, was it?

Editor's note: This article was most recently updated to mention current components and the pricey state of today's DIY hardware market.

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AMD's disruptive Ryzen processors and Intel's supercharged 8th-gen Core CPUs have sparked a wave of interest in PC building, but some people still hesitate at the idea of crafting a custom PC. Don't! Building your own PC isn't some arcane art or esoteric skill that only the most hardcore of hardware geeks can pull off.

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www.computerhope.com needs to review the security of your connection before proceeding.

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It might be hard sourcing PC components right now, but learning how to build a PC is still a fulfilling task, regardless of what the best graphics cards are going for right now. The process actually remains the same - you need to research and choose the components that will make up the you're trying to put together. After all, you want a PC that you can show off with pride.

If you've never built a PC before, it can be a scary undertaking, especially considering that it is a good amount of work. Though a lot of people act like it's an easy task building a , you might find it a discouraging process your first time around. And, that's okay.

And, before you get too down about any issues you're facing, we're here to help. We've built quite a few PCs and have used our expertise to put together this step-by-step guide so you can build your PC in no time. We'll make it as painless as possible and take you from beginning to end.

(Image credit: DisobeyArt / Shutterstock)

What kind of PC do you need?

These days, basically everyone needs a decent PC to get through life, but they come in so many shapes and sizes that it's important to know what you're trying to build before you even get started.

For instance, if you're just going to be using your PC to do daily office work - like web browsing or writing up documents - you don't need to drop thousands of dollars on a fancy gaming rig. Building a PC with something like the AMD Ryzen 5 5600G will get you a quick and responsive PC that will last you years, with enough graphics horsepower to get you through all tasks that most people experience on a day-to-day basis.

However, there are plenty of people that need something with a bit more oomph. Computers are legitimately more powerful now than they've ever been, and there's never been more options to build something that will tear through the best PC games like they were so much paper. But, powerful hardware like the Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 and the AMD Ryzen 9 5900X come at a high price.

Luckily, if you're on more of a budget, you can get something like an Intel Core i5-11600K and an Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 (if you can find one in stock at a decent price, that is), and have an incredible 1080p gaming machine. And, that will be able to get some video editing done on the side too.

Tools of the trade

Although a single phillips screwdriver is all you need to construct a PC, you may want a few more things on hand just in case. For example, needle nose pliers or a simple pair of tweezers may come in handy to place screws into tight places or retrieve them.

Zip ties are useful for tidying up all your PC cables and luckily, you most likely won't have to buy them as they often come included with several different types of computer parts. You'll also need a pair of side cutters (or just scissors) to cut those said zip ties.

You can't go wrong with an anti-static wrist strap, either - though you can get away with not having one. Unless you've been running around on carpet all day, or have cats, you likely aren't holding enough static charge to damage the electronics. Just do yourself a favor and discharge any latent electricity by placing your hand on metal, like your PC case or power supply.

As for your workspace, you're going to want to clear off a good bit of table space, as you'll likely be flipping your PC on its side, feet, back and any which way to install everything.

And, before we forget, it's a good idea to get a monitor, keyboard and mouse set up before you start building, so you have something to plug it into when the building is done. You should also have a power socket and internet connection available.

It's hard to find a modern build with an optical drive these days, so put the Windows 10 installer onto a USB stick ( we'll show you how). If you can't find a handy thumb drive and a laptop, we would cannibalize an older rig for a CD drive, or even just buy one - you can find them online for less than 10 bucks these days.

It's time, to build. Finally.

After spending weeks coming up with a list of PC components, waiting anxiously for them to go on sale, and getting them delivered to your door, it's time. You've got a phillips head screwdriver in hand, and you're ready to go.

Now for the purposes of our PC building guide, we've used these following parts as an example of how to build a complete computer. These components are also exactly what you need to construct an modest - if a little last generation - gaming PC.

Here are some PC component deals to get your PC build started

Step by step
1. Strip down
First thing you'll want to do is strip the case down as far as you can go. Remove every panel that you can, and store them in a safe place (inside the case box is the best bet). We recommend using a bowl (or a magnetic parts tray if you want to be fancy) to hold your screws throughout your PC building process.
2. Fan-tastic
If you've purchased some replacement or extra cooling fans, now is the time to install them where you need them. Try to keep your cooling setup balanced, so there's as much air being drawn in, as is being blown out. In case you're not sure which way the wind will go, the plastic fan guards usually denotes where the air will come through.

Typically you want two fans in the front drawing air in and at least one in the rear blowing air out. You could also screw one or two more optional fans into the roof of the PC case for additional exhaust, if your PC case has mounting points for them.
3. Mobo Installation
Before we get to install the motherboard, you'll want to check on a few things about your PC case. Check for pre-installed motherboard standoffs, ensure the number and arrangement of them conforms to the holes found on your motherboard.

Secondly, see if your PC case has a large CPU cutout or window cut into the back of the motherboard frame. If it doesn't you may want to install any CPU cooler backplates and M.2 solid-state drives at this juncture.

Now that's done, first find your motherboard's rear I/O shield, and push it into the rectangular slot in the back of your PC case. Make sure it's right side up by matching the pattern of cutouts to the arrangement of ports on the back of your motherboard.

Next, lay your motherboard down inside the chassis - carefully lining up its rear ports with the corresponding holes in the I/O shield you just installed - on top of the standoffs installed in your chassis.

Then it's a simply case of securing the motherboard down with the screws that came with your chassis. Make sure you use the right ones here, as you don't want to thread the standoffs, in case you need to remove it at a later date.
4. CPU Installation
Next up, socket your CPU into the motherboard. Here's where things are a little different depending on which family and/or brand you decided to go with.

For Intel mainstream CPUs, slide the spring loaded retention arm out and up, then lift the bracket up leaving the plastic cover in place. Then, gently place your CPU inside the socket, matching the golden triangle located on the bottom left corner of the processor, with the triangle on the socket bracket.

For the next step, you should slide the securing bracket back into its original position so it locks in place underneath the screw, and secure the retention arm back down. During this process the protective plastic cover should pop off, so don't freak out if it comes flying at you. Be sure to stow the cover away in a safe place as it'll protect the motherboard's sensitive pins if you decide to remove the processor from the motherboard.

If you're installing an AMD CPU, fortunately installation is much less daunting. There's no bracket here, simply lift the retention arm in its raised position.

You should then take your processor and match the golden triangle on the corner of the Ryzen processor with the triangle on the socket. Once the pins on the bottom of the processor lineup with the holes on the socket, drop it into place. Give it a little nudge to make sure it's secure, then lower the retention arm back down and lock it into place.

Processor installation done, whew.
5. Memory Matters
Next on the agenda is installing computer memory. Push down the latches at either ends of the DDR4 slots on your motherboard. Then line up the notch on the bottom of the memory with the notch in the slot. After that, you can install the memory by carefully pushing down both sides of the memory into the slot. You should hear a clicking sound as the memory secures into place and the latches click back up.

Make sure you use the farthest and second closest slot from the CPU if you're only using two memory sticks. Complete that and you'll be good to go.
6. Cooler mounting
Here's the last complicate piece in the PC building process, CPU coolers.

Most third-party coolers require installing a backplate, which you may or may not have already done from step three of our PC building guide. Each individual cooler will have its own set of instructions your should follow, but the gist of most installations requires affixing a backplate and threading four pins though back of your motherboard.

From there you'll want to thermal paste if your CPU cooler didn't come with any pre-applied already. Users will want to squeeze out a small blob, around the size of half a pea, onto the middle of the CPU. This will spread out once your cooler is mounted, and provide a sufficient amount of thermal interface material to successfully transfer heat from the processor die to the cooler of your choosing.

For air coolers, you'll want to install most models with the fans unattached. Carefully orient the heatsink onto the pins or threads of the mounting plate and secure in place with any provided thumb screws or regular screws. After that it's simply a case of reattaching the fan to the tower, and plugging the 4-pin PWM fan header into the CPU Fan slot on the motherboard.

Liquid-coolers follow basically the same process, but require more upfront work. You'll probably have to attach fans onto the radiator and installing it into your PC case in advance. Depending on which liquid-cooler you're using, you may also need to plug in a second four-pin cable into a dedicated AIO cooler or optional cooler header on your motherboard.

This is also a good opportunity to plug in the rest of your system fans into any available slots on the board. Or alternatively, if your PC case has an integrated fan controller at the back of the chassis to route all your fans into, then directly onto the motherboard. It'll also need to connect to the motherboard via USB header.
7. Storage installation
Once memory is in, it's time to focus on some non-volatile memory storage, hard drives and solid-state drives. Our NZXT H400i happens to have a small SSD bracket on the front. Installing 2.5-inch drives into these caddies is a cinch, as you can simply slide it into place with the option of fully securing it with four screws.

Most modern PC cases comes with SSD bays of some sort. But if you're case doesn't, the 3.5-inch drive caddies typically reserved for hard drives should have compatible mounting points. No matter what type of storage drive you're installing, ensure the connection ports are facing towards a cable cut-out inside your chassis as it will make routing cables easier.
8. PSU positioning
Now you've got your motherboard, CPU and memory installed you're going to want to install your power supply next. If you've got a modular PSU, figure out what cables you need ahead of time, and plug them into your power supply first.

If your PC case comes with a PSU bracket, remove it ahead of time and attach it to the back of the unit. Next up thread the cables through the PSU slot in the back of the case first, and then slide the PSU into place, securing the bracket back onto the chassis.

Otherwise, on older cases you'll have to slip in the power supply in through the inside of the chassis and push it firmly against the inside wall as you attach it with four screws.

Depending on the design of your case, you'll want to orient the fan towards ventilation areas built into it. For most cases we suggest facing the fan downwards or to the side away from the interior of your PC. This way, your PSU can draw in fresh air and exhaust heat through the back.
9. All the buttons
To get your front I/O power buttons working properly, you need to plug in the correct cables. Fortunately, on our NZXT H400i, this is a single block that plugs directly onto the front I/O headers on the motherboard, make sure you orient it the correct way, then push it into place on the pins.

For everyone else, take the individual pins, and, using the motherboard installation handbook, identify which pins and cables need connecting. Try to do this part gently do, so as to not to bend the pins. It's important to note that any LED lights (HDD and Power), need to be oriented correctly, with the + and - cables installed into the + and - pins on the board.

It's also a good time to plug in your USB 3.0 header, USB 2.0 header, and audio passthrough. Audio is located on the bottom left of most motherboards. It will be labelled, and the pin outs will be different to the USB 2.0 headers. Install your USB 3.0 cables (denoted with a blue-colored end) into any available slots on the board, making sure to lineup the pins with the holes in the USB 3.0 cables.
10. Cable conundruming
Now you can plug in the rest of your power cables.

Identify your 8-pin EPS cable, and slide it up the back of the chassis, through the cable grommet and plug it into the 8 pin power slot at the top of the motherboard. Then, find the bulkier 24-pin cable, slide that through any cable routing recesses on the chassis and plug it into the corresponding 24-pin ATX power port on the motherboard.

Next up, take your SATA power and connect it to any storage drives. If you happen to have a something mounted onto the front of the case, run this SATA power cable through the PSU shroud, appropriate grommets or holes, and into your front mounted 2.5-inch drive. This is a good opportunity to plug in the SATA Data cables between any storage drives and the motherboard as well.

Lastly, you'll want to thread your PCIe power cable through the cutout in the PSU cover or any side grommets/holes, so that it's ready for when you install your GPU.
11. Graphically sound
Finally we have the last piece of the puzzle to slot into place.

First take a look at your motherboard and locate the PCIe slot closest to your processor. From there locate the two PCIe slots next to where you'll want to install your GPU and remove them. In most PC cases, that'll involve undoing two screws on the PCIe slot covers and removing them.

Take your graphics card out of the anti-static bag and line it up with the slots we just opened up. The rear I/O on the GPU should be facing out the back of the chassis. Once the gold contacts on your GPU make are touching the PCIe slot, gently push it into place until you hear a click. Then use the same screws we removed from the PCIe slot cover to secure the GPU into place.

Then it's simply a case of plugging your PCIe power that you routed in with our last step - and we have a fully built PC (mostly).
12. Into BIOS
Now the system's built, don't reattach all your panels just yet. First you'll want to make sure it actually turns on and runs properly.

Take your temporarily built tower over to your pre-setup computer space and plug it into power, a screen, keyboard and mouse too. Power it on, and mash the delete key to get into the BIOS screen. Check your CPU temp, make sure that's operating somewhere around 30-40 degrees C, and ensure that your boot drive is registering correctly.

If everything is showing up, now is also a good time to enable the XMP for Intel or DOCP for AMD to make sure your memory is operating at the correct frequency. Then hit F10, save and exit. Then power off.
13. Tidying up
Now that we're sure the machine is working, disconnect it again and bring it back to your workspace. It's worth doing this because you'll want to reattach all those PC case panels and tidy up any loose cables.

That means using cable ties to bunch together cables as much as you can. Most PC cases come to cable cut-outs to use as tie down points. Where they're aren't any, we usually use thicker cables to help push smaller ones flush against the inside of our computer chassis.
14. Installing Windows
Bring the system back to your computer space, where it'll sit forever - or at least until your next upgrade - as we'll want to install the operating system next.

Most modern rigs lack an optical drive to install your OS, so you'll need to create a USB install on another PC. To do this, download the Windows 10 Media Creation Kit and then install Windows 10 onto an USB stick with at least 8GB of space.

Then, once it's finished, simply plug it into your new system. Go back into your BIOS to tell your system to boot from the USB stick first. From there you can go through the prompts to install the operating system onto your new rig. Don't worry about not having a software key during installation, you can activate Windows 10 once you reach desktop.
15. Desktop maintenance
Once you're finally logged on, head on over to the manufacturer's website, find your motherboard, head to service, and download the correct chipset drivers for your system.

is a nifty tool to get all the programs you want fast without having to worry about installing each one individually is. On the Ninite site, you can select which programs you want, download the installer and let it run its magic. After that, go download and install the correct graphics driver for your card and you'll be all set to sit back and enjoy.

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How to build a PC: a step-by-step guide to building the best PC

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It might be hard sourcing PC components right now, but learning how to build a PC is still a fulfilling task, regardless of what the best graphics cards are going for right now. The process actually remains the same - you need to research and choose the components that will make up the you're trying to put together.