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This is my full sourcing strategy evidencing how I intend to get my joggers from production to store.

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This article was really useful in aiding me to fully understand the advantages and disadvantages of sourcing from China. China seemed to be the obvious choice since Burberry already source from there however I wanted to ensure this was a wise decision to make for my own range and fibre compositions.

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It is a balancing act between product, price, and quality to be able to thrive as a business. One factor that affects business is the high cost of production rates which may vary in the country you live in. Many companies, to stay ahead of the competition, have employed the services of sourcing specialists or sourcing agents to help them in achieving low production costs that mutually benefits their selling prices. Here are the benefits of sourcing from China.

Lower Labor Costs

In the last few years, companies have turned to Mainland China as the destination of choice for offshore product sourcing. One major benefit these companies look at is the low manufacturing cost in China. Imagine the cost savings in shipping, duties and other costs which might be more expensive if done locally. The major reason for this is because China's population ranks #1 in the world that labor costs are very low in China. And as any successful business would know, lower production costs results to better sales.

Service, Expertise and Technology

Chinese producers can provide better service as they are outstanding in sales. They will put a sample of your product in your hands and guarantee it will be the same product that you will receive. China is increasingly competitive in research, science and technology. Chinese factories can make almost every kind of product. These factories provide services for the development of your products from initial design, prototype manufacture and testing, through the full production.

Production and Distribution

Factories in China can meet agreed production timelines. You will not encounter a factory who was not able to meet a large consignment order. If your business is serving worldwide markets, then it would be beneficial to ship from factories to international distribution hubs or customers.

Closer Proximity to Resources

China is undisputedly a manufacturing super power with abundance in raw materials like steel, aluminum and rubber at a much lower cost as could be compared in other locations. Sourcing to China can be the answer to reducing production cost and achieving a faster lead time.

The benefits do outweigh some of the challenges that you might encounter if you do decide to source from China. Research and employ a good sourcing agent. We at 1000 Enterprises with our years of experience will be able to give you more of the benefits and alleviate the challenges that you would have encountered if you ventured on your own.

We bridge continents and cultures with our presence in North America, Australia and Asia. We will be with you every step of the way, we will be on the ground, we hold your hand, we will be your eyes and ears. These will allow you to focus on your business and improve your processes which will in turn improve your product development. This circles back to production and to sales which feeds back to your business. We have proven processes that we implement for flawless and seamless execution.

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Benefits of Sourcing from China - 1000 Enterprises

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It is a balancing act between product, price, and quality to be able to thrive as a business. One factor that affects business is the high cost of production rates which may vary in the country you live in.

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After being exposed of burning £28billion worth of excess stock every year, Burberry were in desperate need of cleaning up their sustainable image, particularly when trying to branch into the younger market.

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Burberry burns bags, clothes and perfume worth millions

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The fashion firm destroyed £28m of unwanted stock last year in a bid to protect its brand.

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Alongside silk, modal cotton is another primary material I am using. When researching what fabric to use for my 'comfort' pieces, I found by adding modal to cotton it makes the material not only softer but less likely to shrink and is more absorbent.

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Modal cotton is a blend of cotton and modal, which is a type of rayon made from beech tree fibers. When modal is added to cotton, the result is a fabric that shrinks less, is softer to the touch and is more absorbent than fabric made from pure cotton.

Because of its silky feel, clothing manufacturers often use modal cotton in underwear and other fabrics that come into direct contact with the skin, such as sheets and towels. However, even though modal is made from beech fibers, it is not considered a completely natural fiber because many chemicals are used in its manufacture. Garment care instructions for modal cotton fabrics are similar to those for cotton fabrics, although the addition of modal to cotton makes fabric more susceptible to damage by excessive heat and chlorine bleach.

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Modal cotton is a blend of cotton and modal, which is a type of rayon made from beech tree fibers. When modal is added to cotton, the result is a fabric that shrinks less, is softer to the touch and...

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This report highlights how branded fashion is taking over the market, with the majority of the best selling fashion companies including branding on their garments, such as Nike and Adidas for example.

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20 major companies lead the global fashion industry right now, according to the McKinsey Global Fashion Index. These companies account for 97% of global economic profit in the sector.

Nike, Adidas, and H&M are among the well-known names on the list.

According to the report, mid-market players are increasingly losing out to luxury and value brands.

The global fashion market is dominated by 20 companies, according to new research from management consultancy firm McKinsey & Company.

In its "Global Fashion Index," released last week, McKinsey ranked the top fashion companies across the world by economic profit, which it defines as "a measure for value-add created by businesses, whereby opportunity costs are deducted from revenues earned."

Dubbed the "super winners," these companies currently account for 97% of global economic profit in the retail sector and own some of the biggest and best-known brands in the business, including Nike, H&M, and Zara.

"The lesson from 2017 is that size continues to matter," the report said. "There is a demonstrable advantage to scale. The one caveat is that if you can't be big, be nimble."

Noticeably absent from this list are online players and US department stores - the latter dominated the list 10 years ago, according to the report. The companies are ranked by economic profit, which is net operating profit, less adjusted taxes minus capital charge.

Find out which companies made the top 10 list below:

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20 companies dominate the world's fashion industry. Here's who makes the list.

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20 major companies lead the global fashion industry right now, according to the McKinsey Global Fashion Index. These companies account for 97% of global economic profit in the sector. Nike, Adidas, and H&M are among the well-known names on the list. According to the report, mid-market players are increasingly losing out to luxury and value brands.

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This article highlights the average size of women today and therefore leads us to question the far from inclusive clothing sizes the majority of retailers are using.

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TAKE a good look at these four women who are dressed in identical outfits.

While all are different shapes and sizes, they wear size 16 clothes - the "average" for UK women today.

Around 45 per cent of British women are a size 16 or bigger, despite a recent survey finding the "ideal" size is a 12.

Here, JULIA ETHERINGTON asks these Sun readers what it is like to be "Mrs Average".

I have to wear maternity clothes

SOCIAL care assessment officer Gemma Jamieson says she is happy with her weight, but admits being classed as "petite" and "plus-size" can make shopping tough. She says:

"At school I was called "the fat one" and as an adult, I've always been this size.

I've been on loads of diets but they haven't made much difference.

Five years ago, after meeting my current boyfriend, I began to feel more comfortable with the way I look.

It's taken me a long time to accept my body but I'm finally getting there.

I have polycystic ovary syndrome and would like to have a baby. But first, the doctor wants me to lower my BMI by losing weight. With the help of a food psychologist, I'm hoping to lose around two stone.

Being petite and plus-size is a nightmare when it comes to shopping. Maternity clothes fit me but I don't want to buy7 clothes for pregnant women."

I used personal trainer each day

SINGER Emma Wilson, from Maida Vale, West London, has only recently learned to love her size 16 body. She says:

"When I was young I was very slim. I thought I'd always stay that way but not many of us do.

The weight started creeping on in my early thirties and by the time I was 35, I hated being a size 16.

I knew it would be harder to lose weight the older I became, so I got a personal trainer and started exercising every day.

Seven months later, I was two stone lighter and a size 10-12 and suddenly, men started to notice me.

But after a year, the weight slowly began creeping back on.

Now I'm in my forties, I've accepted my body and dress to flatter my curves.

I like having a bigger bust and bottom but I do feel self-conscious about my tummy."

Being curvy makes me feel more womanly

TUTOR Caroline Gough has not weighed herself in more than a decade. The single mum from Hartlepool, County Durham, does not own a set of scales. She says:

"Until I got pregnant when I was 38, I had always been a svelte size 10.

Even when I was carrying my daughter Georgie, who is now four, friends said I just had a bump and didn't put weight on anywhere else.

Any weight I did put on came off again as I breastfed.

That's why I was shocked when, over the next couple of years, the weight crept back on.

I don't know if it's because of my age or my metabolism slowing down, but I'd like to lose it again.

I have quite a few clothes in my wardrobe in a size 12 that I've purchased but never taken the label off.

I buy them because I think it will motivate me to lose weight - I think a 12 is the perfect size.

I live in leggings and loose tops at the moment because I'm trying to hide my body and the extra weight I've put on.

The only positive for me is that I have curves I never thought I'd have, which makes me feel more womanly.

Everyone's a different shape and size and shouldn't be judged on it but I must admit, I felt a lot more comfortable before I became7 a size 16."

My height helps me get away with being bigger

STAY-AT-HOME mum Emma Johnson lives in Teddington, South West London with her husband Darrin, 50, a strategist, and sons Ben, 15 and Sam, 12. Being tall makes her feel slimmer than shorter size 16 women. She says:

"I've always been bigger but fortunately I can get away with being a size 16 because of my height.

I've had a personal trainer since January, not because I want to lose weight but because I'd like to be more toned and fitter.

I see him once a week for a bootcamp-style session and go spinning three times a week because it fills me with energy.

I have a really positive body image - the only downside is it's so hard to find clothes to fit. I shop in Long Tall Sally but take a size 16 in Marks & Spencer.

Recently, I was in TK Maxx and to get a top I liked to fit, I had to buy it in extra large.

It doesn't do much for your self-esteem if you need to wear extra-large clothes, it's completely unrealistic.

I also tried to get some skiing gear for a holiday but they don't go past size 14.

Presumably, they think people in larger sizes don't do any exercise. It's really frustrating.

It's funny to think I'm the size of the "average" woman when really, there is no average.

Everyone's a different size and shape and we should7 embrace that."

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These size 16 women are different heights and shapes but are considered to be UK's 'Mrs Average'

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TAKE a good look at these four women who are dressed in identical outfits. While all are different shapes and sizes, they wear size 16 clothes - the "average" for UK women today. Around 45 per cent of British women are a size 16 or bigger, despite a recent survey finding the "ideal" size is a 12.

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Not all brands are stocking Loungewear as it is not necessarily guided by trend however the growth of its popularity is still on the rise and it could be said to be forming a trend of its own. It suggests the sleepwear category has grown 18.8% in the last year, a staggering amount.

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Sleep has become a major business - one estimated to be worth between $30 to $40 billion. How has the up-selling of sleep impacted apparel retail?

New mattress companies have made us want to haul our store-bought old faithfuls out onto the streets. Arty campaigns from bedding start-ups have us burning anything below 1000-thread count and restyling our bedside tables.

Our phones even want to let us know how many z's we got through the night. But what's going on with our pyjamas?

A lot, actually. The sleepwear category has grown 18.8% in the last year. That's more than other hot categories, like active (up 18.2%) and footwear (up 15.9%).

Sleep has become a multi-billion dollar business. Nightwear is in on the game, growing 19% in the last year. tweet

You might be doing it year-round, but sleepwear has seasons

Track that growth, here shown as new arrivals month to month over the last two years. What's instantly clear is the seasonality of sleepwear.

Historically there have been lifts in late Q1 and early Q3 - key points when the weather changes. Those concentrated periods of new product tended to last for two months before sleepwear becomes less consistent through the remainder of the year.

However, it's really interesting to see in the data that as of Fall 2017, the new arrival period extends for three months. This year has been strong right from the start. Let's dig into exactly what nightwear is coming in.

The sleepwear assortment

Not all sleepwear was created equal. Consumers are used to value in this category - 70% of all sleep apparel retails on the mass market and just 5% is in luxury.

We're looking at a tough category where 20.5% of the assortment is sold as a set - pyjamas - with an average price of $57.71. The chart below shows how nightwear breaks out, with fairly even emphasis across pyjama sets, robes and nighties.
TIP: Log into your EDITED account to track the seasonality of shapes. Look at whether consumers buy more pants in the winter than summer or if new arrivals of vests lift as the temperatures rise.
It's also clear to note how the onesie craze of 2015 and 2016 is all but dead - onesies now only account for 0.5% of the sleep category - roughly the same number as sleep masks!

When it comes to price, robes are vital for giving the category some lift. The average price on a robe is $102.82 - more than 17% of robes are priced over $100.

Meanwhile, shorts and vests are bottom-heavy, sinking most of their product below a $30 price point, despite being more trend-led.

It's worth reflecting on the transition from sleep/nightwear to 'loungewear'. We detected a 73% increase in brands mentioning loungewear on a category landing page or homepage, which is just behind the 63% increase in sleepwear.

Products identifying as loungewear tend to skew luxury - with luxe accounting for 15.4% of the category versus nightwear's 5%. But more on that lifestyle upsell later...

Prices tumble in Q4

Currently 45% of the sleep market is discounted, by an average of 31.6% off. Compare that to the whole retail average right now - 49% is reduced by 35% off - and sleep has got a few critical percentile points in its favor.

In fact, the only categories with lower discounting rates than sleep right now are swim and underwear. Incidentally, we've covered both of these niche categories recently.

Here our new week-to-week view of product history shows that weeks 43 to 52 are vital in the calendar for discounting on the category. It's a key category for Black Friday discounting as it's often a family-buy and a fun gift over the holidays.

Sleepwear trends

Sleepwear is a category that fast fashion doesn't pay much attention to. ASOS does best with over 700 womenswear sleep items, but H&M has under 80 and Zara has none. For that reason, sleep isn't a category that has been driven by trend - it's those retailers who put pressure on other areas of the market to innovate.

But there are retailers who've spotted the opportunity. European retailer Oysho stands out with its trend-forward sleepwear offering which is driven by mainstream trends. For Spring 2018 that means tropical prints, high-waist pants and frill-trimmed white cotton night dresses you can imagine street-styled with sneakers.

And that's the key - the sleep category should be looking to bridge that bedtime/home-time gap so well that consumers can mix items up.

It's no different to what consumers are doing with activewear in and out of the gym. And we're all used to wearing more comfortable and casual apparel. This really could be loungewear's moment!

Here are some of Oysho's top moving products based on full-price sell through and/or replenishment:

Other opportunities to look out for:

Bridal sleepwear - we discussed all things bridal last week, and noted then the increase in bridal sleepwear on the mass market. Think beyond just the bride, as Instagram is creating 'content moments' for the entire bridal party as they prep on the day, or even at the bachelorette.

Airport outfits - Boohoo has recently had airport dressing edits on its homepage and brands like ADAY have grasped the opportunity in today's more global consumer. It's genius because most consumers don't even consider there's a need for different clothes to fly in until they see them. This is a great opportunity for businesses to use their sleep team's expertise in a new way to engage their shoppers.

Restorative sleep - Under Armour has a sleepwear range that's aimed at athlete recovery. It uses a bioceramic print on the inside to temperature regulate and ensure the wearer gets better sleep. This line is selling well and opens up other ideas where apparel could actually improve sleep. With the current trend for home scents, is there a way to infuse sleepwear with snooze-inducing essential oils?

It's a lasting trend

You might think it crazy that sleep should be getting more important, but we can pin it back to some rather huge consumer trends. Social media and the immediacy of live 'stories' means that we've opened up our private spaces.

Consumers are very deliberate in their purchases and styling of home - making elevated choices around things like kitchenwares, ceramics and houseplants. They're all aspects of the creation of self that is gripping consumers today.

Selfie-culture laughs in the face of 'behind closed doors' - closed doors simply don't exist any more. Make sure your pyjama offering is ready for the big reveal!
For this article, unless stated, we looked at nightwear across men's and women's at 74 global retailers. If you want access to that data on the category, and a whole lot more, drop us a line right here!

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New mattress companies have made us want to haul our store-bought old faithfuls out onto the streets. Arty campaigns from bedding start-ups have us burning anything below 1000-thread count and restyling our bedside tables. Our phones even want to let us know how many z's we got through the night.

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Silk is a fabric typically produced in India, Japan, Italy, France and China. This supported my decision to continue sourcing from China (as Burberry currently do) as silk is the main fabric I am using for my garments so producing them in a country silk is already produced is definitely a bonus.

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Biological source:

The silk fibre is prepared from the cocoons of Bomyx mori Linn, commonly called the mulberry silk worm, and other species of bombyx and Antherae (Order- Lepidoptera).

In India it is produced by A. mylitta and A. assama.

Geographical source:

Silk is largely produced in India, China, Japan, Italy and France, etc.

Preparation:

Before the silkworm passes from the caterpillar to the chrysalis or pupa stage, it secretes around itself an oval cocoon about 2-5 cm long, consisting of a continuous thread up to 1200 m long. This thread consists of two silk or fibroin fibres cemented together by a layer of silk glue or sericin. Strands of semi liquid fibroin, produced by two gland in the insect, flow into a common exit-tube in the head, where they meet the secretion of silk glue produced by another pair of glands.

The double fibre with its coating of sericin emerges from a spinneret in the head of the worm, coagulates and hardens on contact with the air and is spun into the cocoon movements of the head. If the chrysalis were allowed to mature, the silk wound is damaged by the escaping insect.

It is therefore killed by heating at 60-80°C for a few hours or by a short exposure to steam. The cocoons are then graded, placed in hot water and beaten to facilitate removal of the outer layer of fibre, which is only of secondary value, and to soften the silk glue. The ends of the fibres from 2-15 cocoons are picked up and woven into a single thread.

Characters:

Silk fibres are soft, smooth and solid. They are usually yellow in colour and contain considerable tensile strength. It is soluble in concentrated HCI, ammonical copper oxide solution, cuoxam and 66% H ₂SO ₄.

Chemical constituents:

The silk is composed protein called fibroin, which on hydrolysis produced amino acids like glycine and alanine.

Microscopical examination:

Moisten a few fibres with alcohol and mount in water. Examine under high power microscope and observe the characters. Also note the behavior and solubility of the fibres when mounted in cuoxam (freshly prepared ammonical copper oxide solution); 5% potassium hydroxide solution and 80% w/w H ₂SO ₄. The protein material is almost cylindrical, ungrooved filaments; traces of adherent sericin, which stain dark brown with iodine.

Uses:

The silk fibre is used in the preparation of ligatures and sieves.

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ADVERTISEMENTS: Biological source: The silk fibre is prepared from the cocoons of Bomyx mori Linn, commonly called the mulberry silk worm, and other species of bombyx and Antherae (Order- Lepidoptera). In India it is produced by A. mylitta and A. assama. ADVERTISEMENTS: Geographical source: Silk is largely produced in India, China, Japan, Italy and France, ...

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I was unsure as to which fibre composition to use for my delicates so this website was really useful for finding out. I have opted to use Cotton Satin as it is 100% natural, kind to the skin and still a luxurious fabric.

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When it comes to the best fabrics for lingerie, it will all depend on your....desired usage, if you know what I mean. From sexy babydolls to the more practical slips for defining your shape, lingerie can be worn alone or as underwear. Making your own lingerie is an empowering sewing project, especially as you get to make something perfectly fitted to your unique figure. When you have the best fabrics for lingerie, the right pattern and your own custom printed fabric, your underwear game just got a whole lot more exciting.

Why Make Your Own Lingerie?

Sometimes, you think you've found the ultimate bra and knickers set. They seem like everything you want from underwear, but when you're in the changing rooms, it's just not right. Maybe the cup is slightly too big, the nightie you thought was perfect hugs your hips a little bit more than you'd like, or the fabric feels irritable on your skin. At the end of the day, we want to feel beautiful and comfortable, and high street shops can't always strike that balance. When you make your own lingerie garments, you're in complete control of the look and feel, creating something that is made especially for you.

The best fabrics for lingerie can range from floaty, luxurious fabrics such as Lucent Satin, Organza and Florence Net, to the more practical and cosy fabrics like Mulmul, Cotton Satin and Jersey. All of which are going to feel delicate and smooth against your skin, draping where they ought to drape and fitting your form how they should.

Choosing your lingerie fabrics will all depend on what you're making. Here's a few staples every woman should have in her lingerie repertoire:

Best fabrics for Lingerie

The following fabrics are for both the body of your lingerie and also trimmings, applique and other decorative touches you want to add. Remember to consider your fabric very carefully, to ensure that it is the right one for your perfect lingerie garment.

Lucent Satin

Lucent Satin is a beautifully light, soft and shimmery fabric that is ideal for making babydolls and flirty nighties. The high lustre face catches the light, making it perfect for intensifying those intimate evening moments. Weighing 120gsm, it's cool to touch and effortlessly slips over your skin, feeling delicate and graceful.

Silk Impression

Silk Impression is a demure fabric that's perfect for lingerie making as it's both incredibly lightweight (80gsm) and durable. It almost feels weightless, effortlessly gliding over your skin without any friction. The front and back textures are the same, being soft, silky and cool to the touch. It has a shimmery face and is semi-translucent, producing an elegant, slightly faded print. It's one of the best fabrics for lingerie items such as nighties and babydolls, due to the glamourous silk appearance.

Shimmery face

Silky and cool to touch

Holds shape well

Super lightweight

Semi-transparent

Cotton Satin

Cotton Satin is 100% natural, so is incredibly soft to touch. Even though it has a matt finish, the face is smooth and feels a delight against the skin. It drapes elegantly, and would be ideal to make a classy chemise or cute pyjama set. Natural cotton is always a beautiful fabric to wear, thanks to the breathable properties and cool touch.

Mulmul Soft Muslin

Not every fabric used for lingerie needs to be sexy and glam, but the mulmul muslin is sultry in its own unique way. The sheer-like quality and semi-transparency make it perfect for a 'barely there' chemise or nightdress. It's incredibly soft, and has an almost brushed surface, making it a delight to wear of an evening.

Jersey

The springy, stretchy nature of Jersey make it an ideal fabric for creating supportive garments such as panties or slips. Not only this but because it moves with the body it's ideal as ordinary comfort loungewear. There's many different weights to choose from, depending on your desired usage. Jerseys are knitted, providing warmth and a cosy softness you wouldn't get from Lycra. Fabrics for lingerie are so versatile, so you could even use a jersey to make a gathered babydoll or lightweight robe.

Princess Lace Satin

Make your own shapely lace bodysuit using Princess Lace Satin. Then knitted lace front is backed with an elegant silvery satin, creating drama, texture and sensuality. There's a slight stretch so it can move with you whilst still keeping the shape and definition. It's a totally feminine fabric that flaunts your figure and shows off curves.

Organza

Sheer and transparent with a touch of sparkle, Organza is a beutiful fabric to use to add decorative notes to your lingerie. Add shaped motifs that subtly catch the light, or why not add a petticoat layer to your babydoll? Organza is sheer with an ethereal aesthetic, making it a perfect fabric for lingerie. It can bring a slight firmness without adding any weight, ideal for under garments.

Florence Net

Fine and fragile looking Florence Net might be but it's anything from the truth. This power net fabric is super strong and durable. With a 4 way stretch, there's so much movement making it perfect for making knickers. Finished with a lace trim to add support and structure, Florence Net knickers are so weightless and comfortable. Transparent and breathable, it's perfectly suited to lingerie. Totally fluid, slipping over your body like water, you won't even know you're wearing them. You could also make a chemise or underlay for other lingerie garments.

Super stretchy

Transparent with fluid drape

Lightweight and breathable

Gentle on the skin

Non-fray knitted net

Feeling inspired to make your own lingerie? Then make sure you make something totally unique and customised to you and your style. Design your own lingerie fabric for a bespoke bedroom experience and feel gorgeous in your very own handmade undergarments. This is only a handful of our selection, so click on the banner below and discover the full range.

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The 8 Best Fabrics For Lingerie & Underwear Making

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When it comes to the best fabrics for lingerie, it will all depend on your....desired usage, if you know what I mean. From sexy babydolls to the more practical slips for defining your shape, lingerie can be worn alone or as underwear.

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I have identified the Burberry consumer as part of the 'Get Paid Crew' as they are hardworking individuals with the money to splurge on high end fashion.

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The Urban segment is intrinsically linked to inner city living - young people living in busy multicultural hubs, with rich and varied influences, where wealth and poverty sit side by side - and with access to the latest sounds, clubs and fashion.

Across all segments, Urban Tribes are strongly influenced by what they see and experience in their immediate environment - many cite family, church and the local community as huge influences. Being part of the 'local' scene is key - there's enthusiasm for supporting grass roots talent and local movements, and many Urbans identify themselves with a specific area in the city - such the grime duo Newham Generals or gangs across big cities.

Urbans are best known for music - from r'n'b, grime, UK bass and funky to old school jungle and rap. Members are proactive in their search for new sounds, getting behind new releases, picking up digital mix tapes and sharing them with their social networks. Urban Tribes play a hugely important role in dictating the artists that break through to the mainstream - just ask Tinchy Stryder!

Fashion-wise, street wear rules - from classic sports brands to independent urban labels, such as King Apparel. Drawing inspiration from US street fashion, these Tribes were among the first to adopt the baseball jacket and snap back combo - a look now adopted by Leading Edge Tribes aplenty.

There's no getting away from it, urban sounds and styles dominate the mainstream and mean big business. The explosion of grime and street wear is testament to this segment's wield over popular culture.

Get Paid Crew
Get Paid Crew are highly aspirational, driven by money and being their own boss.
More straight-laced than their innovative DIYer cousins and likely to be working hard to set up their own business, get a good job and make money, money, money - once connected to dodgy dealings, there is now a huge amount of respect for the success orientated GPCs.

Stylers
Still representing status and style, it's about partying, looking good and staying ahead of cool.
Stylers hold strong on the UK Tribes map - innately cool and stylish, the rising influence of Urban fashion and music have made them a hugely aspirational Tribe for youth today. As luxe sportswear and Urban high fashion has hit the Aspirants (check out the Hypebeasts), more young people than ever before are looking like a Styler and aspiring to their luxury lifestyle.

Trackies

Trackies are laid back enthusiasts motivated by the need to chill, whether that's gaming, watching films or listening to music.

They're all about hanging out, playing sports and computer games, ordering pizza and getting their hands on a bit of weed! Typically seen as those with the potential to achieve but lacking in motivation, these guys just want to chill out man!

Wasteman
Rebellious, loud and little bit dodgy.
Part Chaver, part Chav, part Trackie and part Get Paid Crew - this is the updated Chav, a low level wheeler dealer, likely to be shotting weed, wearing trackies and trading knock off trainers than being admired by other segments, in fact, most run a mile when they see them.

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The Urban segment is intrinsically linked to inner city living - young people living in busy multicultural hubs, with rich and varied influences, where wealth and poverty sit side by side - and with access to the latest sounds, clubs and fashion.

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Shop price inflation edged up to 0.2% from 0.1% in August. Non-food deflation hit 0.9% in September from 1% in August.

Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium, said: "Global commodity conditions, in particular oil prices, would indicate that there are likely to be further inflationary pressures in the short to medium term, which could lead to further price rises.

"This would be worrying enough for hard-pressed British consumers if we weren't staring down the barrel of a "no-deal" Brexit. Food prices alone have now been inflationary for more than a year, and the BRC estimates that consumers could face up to a 29% increase in prices of products such as beef in the event of a 'no-deal'.

"Time is running out for the government to deliver a Brexit deal with a workable backstop arrangement and a clear transition period. This is not good news for UK shoppers who, out of all the stakeholders in the Brexit process, ultimately have the most to lose."

Mike Watkins, head of retailer and business insight at Nielsen, said: "Despite the return of wage growth across the economy, there continues to be pressure on the consumer wallet, in particular from higher energy and travel costs. The good news for shoppers is that shop price inflation continues to lag the Consumer Price Index and, with the start of the Golden Quarter, and uncertainty around the underlying demand on the high street, retailers have been absorbing supply chain increases. Looking ahead we expect shoppers to maintain their grocery spend by making savings elsewhere in their overall household expenditure."

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Shop prices rise for consecutive months for first time in five years

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Shop price inflation edged up to 0.2% from 0.1% in August. Non-food deflation hit 0.9% in September from 1% in August. Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium, said: "Global commodity conditions, in particular oil prices, would indicate that there are likely to be further inflationary pressures in the short to medium term, which could lead to further price rises.

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This article highlights some of the key environmental issues connected to using cotton in clothing such as its required level of water.

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The World Counts - Tonnes of water used in cotton production

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This article explores the CO2 emissions released from different methods of transportation and it highlights how much more efficient travel by boat is than by plane, a difference of 460g!

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WGSN was such a powerful tool in enabling me to compare Burberry's catwalks over the years and analyse their progression.

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WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics

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Log in to WGSN's suite of industry-leading trend forecasting, analytics and consumer intelligence tools to remove risk and start empowering your decisions.

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In order to complete my competitive shop, I visited Bond Street in central London to Selfridges as this is where the majority of Burberry’s competitors are sold. The middle section is examples of Burberry's garments, the top left of MaxMara, bottom left Intimissimi, top right Eberjey and the bottom right Olivia von Halle.

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When researching how to advertise my range, it became apparent as to the subliminal advertisements Burberry use to ensure they are stil relavent to the market but upholding their high end image.

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70% of Burberry's sales are now made online, a staggering figure considering the brand is high end and people want the customer experience of a luxury brand. This is why marketing is so important for them as despite their luxury title, the majority of their consumers are switching to the digital market and therefore need to be captured by the messages it's sending out.

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Burberry is planning to put more marketing power behind product launches as it looks to increase investment around specific categories and attract more local customers to the brand.

Speaking on a call this morning to mark its full-year results, Burberry 's CEO and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey used the example of its signature DK88 bag. Its launch was accompanied by a standalone marketing campaign and dedicated store windows, the first time it has done that for a new bag, and that the company has been "delighted" with the early results.

"This launch marks a real shift in how we think about and invest behind a category. It is early days but we are delighted with the very strong results," he explained.

"We will do more marketing and storytelling around each product."

However, that does not mean Burberry will focus its marketing simply on product. Bailey said storytelling and communicating the balance between the brand's rich heritage and focus on innovation will remain key.

That was most clear last year in Burberry's Christmas ad, a trailer for a film that was never made that told the story of Burberry's founder, Thomas Burberry. That ad, claims Burberry, was viewed more than 42 million times online.

"That story of the 160 years of Burberry is what we will always build on," he added. "That is in our product, service, how we communicate to customers, our training and culture."

Being a first mover in digital is also important as Burberry looks to communicate innovation through marketing, not just products. For example, Burberry is testing out mobile commerce with WeChat in China and has made early moves onto social platforms including Pinterest, Instagram and Snapchat.

Improving the customer experience

Marketing is not the only area undergoing a big shift at Burberry. Bailey said conversion both online and in stores has increased "across all markets" after it introduced two new services to improve the customer experience.

The first is a new service model 'client' that ensures all its staff are working to the same luxury service standards and building ongoing relationships with customers. The second is a new customer feedback form based on net promoter scores (NPS) that Bailey claimed is allowing Burberry to be "much more responsive" to customer needs. He also said its NPS scores are consistently equally the best of its luxury peers, without giving any details.

We will do more marketing and storytelling around each product.

Christopher Bailey, Burberry

Online, Burberry is also working to make it easier for customers to buy by adding more lines and fulfilling online orders from stores. Digital, he said, now "influences" 70% of Burberry's sales, while mobile sales are up 50% although no total figure was given.

While digital outperformed the rest of the business last year, Bailey said he wants to sharpen the brand's focus on converting digital awareness into ecommerce sales. To do that, Burberry is relaunching its mobile app to offer a richer experience and improve functionality, while at the same time boosting relationships with retailers such as Harrods and Barneys in the US.

Burberry's results have struggled a little in recent quarters and total revenue was down 2% for the full year to £2.8bn while adjusted profit before tax was down 21%. Burberry is also embarking on a cost-cutting programme that will see it improve efficiency by £100m in full-year 2019, up from £20m last year.

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Burberry rethinks how it markets product launches

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Burberry is planning to put more marketing power behind product launches as it looks to increase investment around specific categories and attract more local customers to the brand. Speaking on a call this morning to mark its full-year results, Burberry 's CEO and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey used the example of its signature DK88 bag.

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'Their target is to become carbon neutral, to re-value waste and to drive positive change through 100 percent of their product and positively impact people.' The brand intedn to replace all hangers and poly bags with eco friendly alternatives that are either reusable, recyclable or compostable by the year 2025.

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NO MORE PLASTIC: Burberry is moving to eliminate unnecessary plastic packaging by 2025, according to a new report published by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a charity that aims to drive brands' transition to a circular economy.

The report, New Plastics Economy Global Commitment, reveals that companies and the government are working together to stop plastic waste and pollution.

The luxury brand said that it will comply with guidelines stated in the report and aims to go beyond that. In 2004, Burberry has put sustainability at the core of the company's mission and in 2017 launched its latest eco-strategy setting out environmentally responsible goals for the next five years.

Their target is to become carbon neutral, to re-value waste and to drive positive change through 100 percent of their product and positively impact people.

"We're going to be doing that by driving demand for sustainable new materials, looking at things like well being, the environment and sustainability in the manufacturing industry in our supply chain," said Pam Batty, vice president of corporate responsibility at Burberry.

Other companies committed to reducing their plastic packaging include Unilever, L'Oréal, Walmart Inc., Target and Carrefour, which are among the 150 signatories with combined revenues of $2 trillion and contributing 20 percent of the global volume of plastic packaging.

By the end of the year, Burberry plans to replace all current hangers, shrouds and poly bags with an eco-friendly option. It will also launch a hanger take-back program that will see discarded retail hangers recycled and reused. Rain covers for shopping bags will be made from at least 30 percent bio-plastics and will be compostable by the end of 2019.

The luxury brand has said that by 2025 all of its plastic packaging will either be reusable, recyclable or compostable. So far, the company has eliminated plastic lamination from its retail bags and poly bags for garment covers, reducing the use of 29 tons of plastic.

The brand is currently exploring a number of bio-based alternatives to achieve these sustainability goals.

Burberry has said that they are on track to reach these goals. Not only have they partnered with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Burberry has also joined an initiative called Renewable Energy 100, a collaborative effort of more than 100 influential businesses committed to renewable energy consumption.

To send out the message, the brand has recently launched new packaging. They've created paper packaging using FSC certified virgin pulp and fiber from recycled coffee cups in partnership with CupCycling. According to Burberry, they've upcycled over 11 million cups.

"We've also got 40 percent recycled content in our new full ticket bags and paper products," said Batty.

"I think that at the moment we're quite confident. Joining forces with Ellen drives the demand for these types of materials and that's a really important point to make. We're internally expanding our work to cover our supply chain as well and we've got a number of initiatives that we are working on," she added.

Burberry has been working hard to become environmentally responsible. I n September last year, the brand has decided to stop using real fur and to end its practice of destroying unsalable products and excess inventory.

Like many other luxury brands, Burberry destroyed its products to protect their brand from the counterfeiters and becoming oversaturated with discounted goods. Their decision to cease this practice is part of their five-year responsibility agenda to tackle issues of waste.

With regards to fur, Burberry also confirmed that they will phase out existing products with fur and starting with Tisci's first collection in September, the brand will create with faux fur only.

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Burberry Wants to Go Plastic-Free by 2025

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NO MORE PLASTIC: Burberry is moving to eliminate unnecessary plastic packaging by 2025, according to a new report published by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, a charity that aims to drive brands' transition to a circular economy. The report, New Plastics Economy Global Commitment, reveals that companies and the government are working together to stop plastic waste and pollution.

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Burberry have stated they are anxious regarding the Brex no deal as it would add milions of pounds worth of additional costs to the brand.

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Burberry has warned against Britain bailing out of the EU without a deal, as it would add millions in additional trading costs for the fashion brand.

The company's views on a no-deal Brexit come after the fashion brand missed analysts' forecasts for third quarter sales growth, with Burberry reporting a 1% increase in revenues in the three months to December.

'I am pleased with our progress in the quarter as we continued to build brand heat around our new creative vision and shift consumer perception of Burberry,' CEO Marco Gobbetti said. 'Excitement is growing ahead of next month's launch of Riccardo's debut collection.'

'We will continue to manage the business dynamically as we reposition the brand,' he added.

Burberry share price edges higher

Despite missing analysts' forecasts, the UK fashion brand saw its share price edge higher, climbing more than 1% on Wednesday, hitting £18.02 as of 2:50pm GMT.

Burberry is in the early stages of a multi-year plan to transform and reposition the brand, with the aim of shifting consumer perceptions of the brand.

'In fashion, appearances matter, and Burberry's 163-year-old brand is its most valuable asset,' Equity analyst at Hargreaves Lansdowne George Salmon said. 'In the UK the group is only just shaking the 'football hooligan' image it acquired in the early noughties.'

'Gobbetti's fellow Italian, Riccardo Tisci, has come in as new Chief Creative Officer,' he added. 'He's got a good reputation in the industry, having breathed new life into the Givenchy brand, and his first collection has been well received.'

Burberry full year guidance unchanged

The British fashion brand has not amended its full year guidance in its recent trading update, with the business forecasting stable revenues and the delivery of £100 million in cumulative cost savings.

Burberry was able to offset weaker sales growth in the US by a strong social media marketing campaign in China that helped boost demand for its products in world's second largest economy, with the company quick to brush off fears about a Chinese slowdown.

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burberry warns against no-deal brexit amid slowing sales growth the british luxury fashion brand has warned that a no-deal scenario will dramatically increase the cost of doing business after recording significant slide in sales growth in its third quarter.

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Burberry warns against no-deal Brexit amid slowing sales growth

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Burberry has warned against Britain bailing out of the EU without a deal, as it would add millions in additional trading costs for the fashion brand. The company's views on a no-deal Brexit come after the fashion brand missed analysts' forecasts for third quarter sales growth, with Burberry reporting a 1% increase in revenues in the three months to December.

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Despite trends of sustainability, fast fashion is still a major was of shopping for the majoirty of people and it is still growing.

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According to new research, the industry has grown 21% over the past three years. When compared to the luxury market, which saw mediocre growth in 2016, it's clear that fast fashion retailers are growing in favour.

Despite many retailers struggling on the high street - with the likes of House of Fraser, GAP, and Forever 21 announcing store closures in the past few years - the online fast fashion industry has continued to generate growth.

According to Hitwise data , fast fashion retail (compared to mid, premium, and luxury brands) accounted for 66% of all online fashion traffic in the first half of the year.

The McKinsey Global Fashion Index forecasts overall fashion industry growth of 3.5 to 4.5% in 2019. But interestingly, it predicts the best-performing segment to be luxury, fuelled by fast-growing Asia-Pacific economies. However, value and discount retailers are also predicted to see continued growth.

So, what's fuelling the fast fashion boom? Here's how brands are capitalising on the consumer desire for instant and affordable fashion, as well as tackling new challenges within the retail industry.

Before we go any further - what exactly determines a fast fashion retailer?

Essentially, it is when the production process is accelerated in order to get new catwalk trends into stores or online as quickly as possible. It also reflects the growing consumer desire for speed and value within retail.

It means that, instead of waiting for new seasonal collections (i.e. spring / summer), consumers can get their hands on a continuous cycle of trend-led clothing, all year round.

Brands such as H&M and Zara were said to be among the very first fast fashion retailers. When the latter opened its first US store in 1990 (having first launched in Spain in the 1970s) it announced that it would only take 15 days for a garment to go from concept to completion.

So, what's fuelling fast fashion brands?

It's not an easy time for the fashion industry, with all segments being impacted by economic uncertainty and increased market competition. Even Asos - which has continuously posted strong growth - issued a profit warning in December 2018 following a decline in sales.

Having said that, there's still evidence that fast fashion is in big demand.

Boohoo is one retailer that successfully braved the retail storm of Christmas 2018. Despite the UK seeing the worst retail sales for the period in a decade, Boohoo reported 44% overall growth in the last four months of the year.

While there is a myriad of factors that contribute to Boohoo's success, a stand-out characteristic is not only how it engages millennial consumers - but how it keeps them coming back for more. One way fast fashion retailers in general do this is by delivering on the demand for new fashion, as younger consumers typically like to spend around seasonal events (such as festivals or Christmas) as well as after payday.

Festival vibez ????????????????❤️

Shop the #top - https://t.co/5QbYnmUNfm#cardigan - https://t.co/ToBD7iP4JS

- boohoo.com (@boohoo) June 13, 2018

Asos stocks over 60,000 items at any given time, allowing the ecommerce retailer to constantly update its inventory with 'new in' products. It constantly tracks how well (or poorly) trends are selling online, before adjusting its inventory accordingly. This means that it reduces the risk of unsold stock, and in turn, delivers a steady stream of new trends for fashion-hungry consumers.

Boohoo's business model also aligns to this type of consumer. Its 'test and repeat' strategy allows the retailer to test various new items on-site, and to re-order based on what proves to be the most popular. So, as well as regularly giving consumers new stock, it is able to guarantee that these products will be big sellers.

Influencer endorsement

Fashion Nova is another of the most successful fast fashion retailers of the moment. Its CEO, Richard Saghian, told WWD that the company grew 600% in 2017. It was also the most-searched for fashion brand of 2018, according to Google.

Despite being around since 2006, Fashion Nova's recent burst of success can be largely put down to social media, and the use of influencers as a key marketing strategy. It has worked with the likes of Kylie Jenner and Cardi B on Instagram, capitalising on the reach and influence of these high profile personalities. Fashion Nova also ensures it generates high levels of engagement across the board by working with small or 'micro' influencers, creating a pool of 13,000 influencers in total (also known as #novababes).

While influencer marketing is now a strategy utilised by a wide variety of industries, it particularly aligns with fast fashion thanks to the 'see it, want it' nature of Instagram. This, coupled with low prices points and regular discounting, means that there is very little stopping consumers from converting through the channel.

Today, consumers are constantly craving fashion and lifestyle-related digital content, not just to inspire their choices, but also for the purpose of entertainment. So, in order to deliver this, many retailers have started to act more like media brands - fusing the worlds of shopping, entertainment, and social media.

Unsurprisingly, Instagram reigns supreme as the most effective platform for fashion brands, with many using videos, Instagram Stories, and shoppable content to enable users to smoothly transition from the act of browsing to buying.

So, alongside influencers, fast fashion brands have mastered the use of social media to enable and drive sales (rather than mere desire).

Instagram has now made buying on the channel even easier with its new Checkout feature - introduced in beta to 20 retailers in March 2019 - which allows users to complete product purchases without having to leave the app. It also enables Instagram to store data (such as purchasing info) on the channel, as well as allows users to track purchases and manage returns within its walls.

Today, we're introducing checkout on Instagram. When you find a product you love, you can now buy it without leaving the app. ???????? https://t.co/o1L5WsfgVE pic.twitter.com/IlVJxOr10x

- Instagram (@instagram) March 19, 2019

The benefits for fast fashion retailers will be a smoother customer journey, allowing shoppers to enjoy a faster, easier, and more instantaneous experience when browsing influencer content.

One brand that has effectively used social to increase sales volume is Missguided; its shrewd partnership with Love Island generated a spike in sales for the brand during the show's run in the summer of 2018. Encouraging viewers to 'get the look', it used Instagram to drive sales of the clothes featured in the show, capitalising on the 'influence' of its stars, even before they'd left the island itself.

Sustainability and ethics

The fast fashion industry has come under fire in recent years for its impact on the environment, as well as suggestions that the demand for cheap clothing is driving poor working and labour conditions.

Interestingly, 2017 Hitwise research shows that 19% of the top fast fashion related searches are linked to the environment, ethics, and sustainability. In order to counteract this, many brands are now displaying increased levels of transparency, with some also introducing initiatives relating to ethical and environmental issues.

H&M, for example, launched its 'Conscious Collection' for Spring 2019, which comes as part of its wider goal of using 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2020.

Whatever you wear, make it smart. Our Conscious Exclusive collection blends style and and more sustainable materials such as @ECONYL to showcase the possibilities of sustainable fashion. https://t.co/LY0Z9tv60o #HMConsciousExclusive pic.twitter.com/JEaHnXex2H

- H&M (@hm) April 12, 2018

Meanwhile, Zara and others have pledged to boycott Uzbek cotton, which is an industry linked to forced labour. The Better Cotton Initiative promotes sustainability and best practices for workers in the cotton industry.

Of course, there is still a long way to go before fast fashion retailers prove themselves, however, these examples are helping to satisfy increasingly conscientious consumers - as well as enhance their brand reputation. With new initiatives like the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan also pushing retailers to make real change, it's likely to become an increasing topic of conversation for the industry in the near future.

Other brands playing catch-up

So, what impact has fast fashion had on the wider industry in general? Interestingly, mid-tier and luxury brands are recognising that the consumer desire for fast fashion is not only based on low prices.

Often, it can simply be because consumers do not want to wait for seasonal collections.

As a result, some brands are introducing 'see now buy now' model to allow consumers to get their hands on clothes as soon as they're seen on the catwalk. For Rebecca Minkoff, the concept reportedly resulted in a 211% sales increase during the first season it introduced it.

It's not just luxury brands either. Elsewhere, more affordable retailers like JC Penney have accelerated the delivery of merchandise in order to update stock mid-season, while Gap has also trialled a fast-fashion model to get new designs into stores on a more regular basis.

Spearheaded by the continued growth of retailers like Missguided and Boohoo, fast fashion doesn't look like it will be slowing down any time soon.

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Four factors fuelling the growth of fast fashion retailers - Econsultancy

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According to new research, the industry has grown 21% over the past three years. When compared to the luxury market, which saw mediocre growth in 2016, it's clear that fast fashion retailers are growing in favour.

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Despite this post talking specifically about WinterSilks garments, it presents interesting viewpoints on the consumption of silk in loungewear. Silk is a breathable and lightweight fabric, perfect for the summer months but still durable and flattering, perfect for the luxury market.

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The Lingerie Addict - Expert Lingerie Advice, News, Trends & Reviews

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While I dream of living my life swathed it silk, on a limited budget such a dream is hard to achieve. Silk is expensive to produce and challenging to sew. Many designs that show off its liquid drape also require larger amounts of fabric, such as cutting on the bias, diagonally to the perpendicular warp and weft threads that make up the woven fabric. Additionally, as I'm plus sized, I don't fit the size ranges of most luxury designers who work in silk.

With all this in mind, finding WinterSilks, a mid-range store focusing on silk undergarments and silk-blend clothing, excited me. While they're perhaps better known for their silk long underwear, for lingerie fans the silk charmeuse sleepwear is where they really shine. I own a number of garments from them, including practical slips and long underwear as well as pajamas, but today I want to focus on their silk charmeuse nightgowns.

I own two of their silk charmeuse long gowns (six colors, sizes S-2XL, $89-129), purchased a year ago, in navy and wine (no longer available). In that year, they've seen a lot of wear: I toss them on in the morning while I drink tea, in the evenings while I wind down, and to bed if I need a light amount of warmth. Because silk is warm but breathable, I've worn them on their own in the summer and under cozy robes in the winter. I get enough wear out of them that I'm thinking about purchasing a few more!

Construction

These full-length gowns are bias-cut with triangular bias panels inserted front and back at the hem to give a wider sweep. They have narrow, adjustable straps at the shoulders. The neckline is first finished with a narrow bias tape to enclose the raw edge then covered with an appliqued lace trim, wide and decorative in the front and narrower in the back.

Inside, the seams are finished neatly and durably. The side seams are finished with a French seam, a time-consuming and precise method that totally encloses the raw edge. The edges of the inset are serged (also called overlocking), which takes less time but also allows for the fluid movement the design requires. The gown is hemmed with a narrow hem using small, neat stitches.

Fit

WinterSilks offers this gown in sizes S-2XL, roughly corresponding to US sizes 2-24. Additionally, I found that this particular design offered generous ease, allowing me to size down. I generally wear a US 18-22, and my bust, waist, and hip measurements are 47", 37", 53". This puts me all over their size chart: between XL and 2XL in the bust and just over 2XL in the hips.

However, I ordered an XL in navy blue first, to try it out, and found it extremely generous. As you can see, it pools on the floor and drapes rather than clings to my body. The wine colored gown I ordered in a size L, which fits much more closely to my body and ends at my ankles.

I like the fit of both. While the wine gown fits more practically for moving around, the swaths of silk in the navy gown feels more decadent and dramatic. It's also less likely to bind around my body when I sleep.

Care

WinterSilks touts their charmeuse sleepwear as machine washable and I take them at their word. I wash my gowns on a gentle cycle then hang to dry. A quick steam iron helps the silk return to its full drape after drying. After a year of frequent wear, some of the lace has frayed just at the edges and the side seams have pulled a little. Beyond that, both gowns have held up remarkably well.

Overall, I would recommend WinterSilks for mid-priced silk loungewear with a somewhat generous size range. They have sales and coupons frequently, making these luxurious gowns even more of a bargain.

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Silk Loungewear Review: Washable Silk Nightgowns from WinterSilks

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While I dream of living my life swathed it silk, on a limited budget such a dream is hard to achieve. Silk is expensive to produce and challenging to sew. Many designs that show off its liquid drape also require larger amounts of fabric, such as cutting on the bias, diagonally to the perpendicular warp and weft threads that make up the woven fabric.

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Silk is a fabric typically produced in India, Japan, Italy, France and China. This supported my decision to continue sourcing from China (as Burberry currently do) as silk is the main fabric I am using for my garments so producing them in a country silk is already produced is definitely a bonus.

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Biological source:

The silk fibre is prepared from the cocoons of Bomyx mori Linn, commonly called the mulberry silk worm, and other species of bombyx and Antherae (Order- Lepidoptera).

In India it is produced by A. mylitta and A. assama.

Geographical source:

Silk is largely produced in India, China, Japan, Italy and France, etc.

Preparation:

Before the silkworm passes from the caterpillar to the chrysalis or pupa stage, it secretes around itself an oval cocoon about 2-5 cm long, consisting of a continuous thread up to 1200 m long. This thread consists of two silk or fibroin fibres cemented together by a layer of silk glue or sericin. Strands of semi liquid fibroin, produced by two gland in the insect, flow into a common exit-tube in the head, where they meet the secretion of silk glue produced by another pair of glands.

The double fibre with its coating of sericin emerges from a spinneret in the head of the worm, coagulates and hardens on contact with the air and is spun into the cocoon movements of the head. If the chrysalis were allowed to mature, the silk wound is damaged by the escaping insect.

It is therefore killed by heating at 60-80°C for a few hours or by a short exposure to steam. The cocoons are then graded, placed in hot water and beaten to facilitate removal of the outer layer of fibre, which is only of secondary value, and to soften the silk glue. The ends of the fibres from 2-15 cocoons are picked up and woven into a single thread.

Characters:

Silk fibres are soft, smooth and solid. They are usually yellow in colour and contain considerable tensile strength. It is soluble in concentrated HCI, ammonical copper oxide solution, cuoxam and 66% H ₂SO ₄.

Chemical constituents:

The silk is composed protein called fibroin, which on hydrolysis produced amino acids like glycine and alanine.

Microscopical examination:

Moisten a few fibres with alcohol and mount in water. Examine under high power microscope and observe the characters. Also note the behavior and solubility of the fibres when mounted in cuoxam (freshly prepared ammonical copper oxide solution); 5% potassium hydroxide solution and 80% w/w H ₂SO ₄. The protein material is almost cylindrical, ungrooved filaments; traces of adherent sericin, which stain dark brown with iodine.

Uses:

The silk fibre is used in the preparation of ligatures and sieves.

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ADVERTISEMENTS: Biological source: The silk fibre is prepared from the cocoons of Bomyx mori Linn, commonly called the mulberry silk worm, and other species of bombyx and Antherae (Order- Lepidoptera). In India it is produced by A. mylitta and A. assama. ADVERTISEMENTS: Geographical source: Silk is largely produced in India, China, Japan, Italy and France, ...

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This article describes his vision when he joined the company in 2013, aiding me in finding my feet in my own range.

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When I saw Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey this summer, he mused on the unforeseen opportunity, on surprises. "It's really important to be disruptive and do things that actually are kind of a little scary and bold," he said as we sat in an office that he designed atop Burberry's headquarters in London. "You've got to push yourself and push yourself out of your comfort zone."

Now the Yorkshireman has his chance. When Angela Ahrendts, Burberry's current CEO, returns to the U.S. to join Apple in the spring, Bailey will become CEO. His ascension returns the leadership of the venerable British retail giant-it has 11,000 employees and about $3 billion in annual revenue-to British hands. But given his close partnership with Ahrendts over the past seven years, not much should be expected to change in the near future. Here's a look at how Bailey described his vision recently:
Bailey On Branding
"The brand is not this kind of cold, static name outside a shop or outside a building or on a piece of clothing. People actually sewed this jacket. Somebody actually designed it. Somebody actually shot it. There are values and a culture behind it."
Bailey On Storytelling With Products
"We try to create product and design that is about craft, it's about function, it's about feeling. Clothes and product give you a feeling-confidence, a feeling of protection and security. That's about understanding the endgame: Somebody has actually got to live with it. It becomes a part of you. It becomes something that you know how you put your hands in and you know where you put your phone or your wallet or your keys or the way you tie it or the way you throw it down or the way you hang it or maybe you don't hang it or maybe you just hang it on the doorknob.

It's not just a coat. That coat has a story.

So we don't think of a product as just a product. We think about the environment it's going to sit in, the way we'll communicate with it, the ways somebody might interact with it. And it's like clothes, they become you ... It's not just a coat. That coat has a story. The fabric for that coat was woven in this incredible factory in the north of England. Then that roll of fabric was driven to another factory, where somebody unrolled it and chalked it all out and cut it. Then somebody else started sewing it together. And that story began over a hundred and fifty years ago and has evolved like this, so that you have this quite traditional old-fashioned craft but we've also put in a little RFID chip into the piece. So when you go to the Regent Street store and near a RFID-enabled mirror, it turns into a screen and all of a sudden you can see the story about that roll of fabric and where it came from. People want the soul in things. They want to understand the whys and the whats and the values that surround it."
Bailey On Playing With History
"We've been around for a long time-158 years. So you've got history and you've got heritage and you've got this wonderful story. That's the foundation for everything that we do, the rock that we build everything else from, but it should never hinder the way you approach things. Our point of view comes from our heritage and our history-that's our story, but then we tell it in completely different ways. We're not changing what happened, but we're telling it in a different way. We're also a young company. We talk about this energy of living in the moment. We talk about innovation. We talk about playing and exploring and being curious. Sometimes we say we're an old-young company."
Bailey On The Retail Experience And His Philosophy Of Inclusivity
"We like to be inclusive and not exclusive. We like people to come into our stores and actually feel welcome and not feel like they're inferior and they shouldn't be there. This isn't about money. This doesn't have to be about price. And it doesn't have to be about buying something. This can be an experience, and that comes in a lot of different ways."
Bailey On The Importance Of Workspace
[Bailey designed Horseferry House, Burberry's HQ] "The basis is empathy. We work incredibly hard but we've all got families and we've all got lives outside this world and those lines always blur. The values that you have at home you need to bring here. When we moved into Horseferry House, Angela and I said, 'Guys, this is your home. This is where you will spend a lot of time. Love it in the way that you would love your home. Treat it in the way you would treat your own home. This is built for you. It's not built for us.'"
Bailey On Music
"Music permeates everything that we do, from the virtual to the physical. We've got a little music team now. We focus on acoustic sound. It's usually a voice and one other instrument. We love to work with people who are just emerging into music, and it's usually music that feels very personal. We try to make sure that the music always has a personal resonance. We also often talk about the craft of music in the same way that we might cut and sew a trench coat-somebody has made that instrument and now somebody is actually using that instrument to play something. We had a lot of things that only existed online, so when we built the Regent Street store, we decided we needed the physical version. We built this incredible platform, got two hundred speakers, and can now host thousand-person concerts in there. We can livestream from there. We are constantly playing with things, asking, if it starts digital, how can we make it physical? And if it starts physically, how can we put it into the virtual world?"
Bailey On His Perfectionism
"We're not complacent. There are always things that you could have perfected, things that we wish we'd done this way instead of that way. But that's the beauty of what we're doing-we're allowed to. It's that hunger that drives you and makes you excited to keep saying, 'Shit, man, I wish we'd done it like that!' And then there's always something else that we can do. We'll just do it next time. But that frustration is actually what drives you."
Bailey On Flexibility, Nimbleness
"As soon as you get tight and stuck in your little way-'This is how we do it'-well, that was written like that two years ago and now it's not like that. So it's always this weird balance of process, structure, thought, data, but then also experiment, innovation, curiosity."
Bailey On The Future
"It's practically impossible to say what will be happening in three years, you know? What's important is that you talk and work through your three-year strategies, but then you have to have a culture that is flexible and dynamic, where you can say, 'Guys, the world has changed. We need to go faster forward on this because that's really exciting now.' It's doing all the thought and all the work and all the process of laying things out but then also being dynamic enough to be able to say, 'Guys, it's not set in stone. It's a guide.'"

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Incoming CEO Christopher Bailey On His Vision For Burberry

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When I saw Burberry chief creative officer Christopher Bailey this summer, he mused on the unforeseen opportunity, on surprises. "It's really important to be disruptive and do things that actually are kind of a little scary and bold," he said as we sat in an office that he designed atop Burberry's headquarters in London.

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By using Selfridges website, I was able to analyse efficeitnyl which high end brands were delving into the world of loungwear and therefore who burberry's competitors would be.

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Nightwear - Pyjamas, Nightshirts & Dressing Gowns | Selfridges

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Explore Selfridges range of luxurious nightwear including pyjamas, dressing gowns, nightdresses and nightshirts from Olivia von Halle, NK iMODE and more

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A few years ago, vegans were often belittled for their opinions yet now it is growing at a faster rate than ever! This highlights a drastic change in public opinions and promotes how living sustainably is more important than ever.

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More people are turning towards veganism

A huge number of companies are ploughing money into research to study veganism - and how its growth will affect the global markets.

Over the last few years there have been many reports highlighting what looks like the unstoppable march of the popular movement.

Here are five of our favourites.

1. Veganism has exploded by 360 per cent in Great Britain over the last decade

With no recent official polling in place, last year The Vegan Society teamed up with Vegan Life magazine to undertake the most extensive survey to date in order to find out how many vegans there are (over the age of 15) in Great Britain.

Official stats put the number at least 542,000 - a whopping 360 per cent increase on the 150,000 of 10 years before - making veganism the country's fastest growing lifestyle movement.

Jasmijn de Boo, who was CEO of The Vegan Society at the time of polling, said: "To have over half a million vegans in Britain is fantastic.

"More people than ever before are acting upon the health and environmental benefits of veganism, and finding out what really goes on in the meat and dairy industries and deciding they do not want to contribute to the pain and suffering of animals."

Tens of thousands more Brits have transitioned to veganism in the last 10 years

2.The global meat-alternative market will reach $5.2 billion by 2020

Another 2016 report by a market research firm shows the massive interest in animal-free products, with Allied Market Research predicting that in just three short years the global meat-alternative market will reach a massive $5.2 billion.

At the time the research was undertaken, Europe was the biggest marketplace for these products, generating 39 per cent of the global revenue.

The study predicted that the Asia-Pacific meat substitute market would witness the biggest growth with compound annual growth rate of 10.1 per cent compared to the sector's annual compound growth of 8.4 per cent.

Researchers highlighted key brands including Beyond Meat, VBites and Amy's Kitchen among others.

More people are reaching for veggie burgers

3.The global non-dairy milk market is predicted to reach nearly $11 billion by 2019

There are a number of reasons consumers choose to eschew cow's milk - and all of them are contributing to the massive growth in the dairy-alternative sector.

In addition, a 2011 study by the U.S. Department of Agriculture reported that dairy milk drink sales had halved since the 1980s.

Now the plant-milk sector is poised to hit almost $11 billion by 2019 according to a report from BCC Research - up from $5.8 billion in 2014.

BCC Research analyst Shalini Dewan said: "More consumers may be choosing plant-based options either because of personal preference or because of recommendations from health or nutrition professionals. Consumers continue to seek plant-based beverages.

"At the same time, they are becoming more interested in plant-based options for milk that offer great taste combined with the nutrients that can be found in cow's milk."

More consumers are turning to milk alternatives including soya

4. Vegan products grew by 92 per cent in Australia last year

A report by Mintel market analysts earlier this year showed a truly heartwarming 92 per cent rise in the number of products labeled as 'vegan'.

The research follows a survey which showed one in seven Aussies said they intended to avoid red meat in 2016.

Laura Jones, Trend and Innovation Consultant at Mintel, said: "Although Australia is still one of the largest meat eating populations globally, health and environmental concerns, along with cost have changed Australians' attitudes when it comes to meat consumption.

"Australians have become more mindful in recent years of the amount of meat and the frequency of which they eat meat."

5. UK Plant-based foods sales are up 1,500 per cent in the last year

Last year saw a truly impressive rise in the number of vegan food sales - with epic 1,500 growth.

The trend was put down to both an increase in the number of people following a vegan diet as well as more people following the 'flexitarian' trend and cutting down on their meat intake.

"Consumer appetite for vegan-friendly foods in the UK is showing no sign of slowing down, as 'flexitarianism' emerges as the key trend of the moment," says Jacques Thudichum, Buying Manager - chilled prepared foods at retailer ocado.com who released the info.

"We've listened to our customers and have hugely expanded our vegan selection this year, adding new and exciting products each week to become one of our strongest categories."

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5 Surprising Statistics That Prove Veganism Is Growing Around The World

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A huge number of companies are ploughing money into research to study veganism - and how its growth will affect the global markets. Over the last few years there have been many reports highlighting what looks like the unstoppable march of the popular movement. Here are five of our favourites.