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During haute couture week, Imran meets with Samira Nasr, and they have good reason to celebrate. During global lockdowns amid the pandemic, Samira became the first woman of colour to helm Harper's Bazaar in the American magazine's 154 year history.

Yet amidst the joy comes tough reflections about racism and belonging in fashion. Samira explains that she is committed to using her position of influence to elevate marginalised voices.

"This role isn't about 'me'. It's about 'we'. It's about the community that I can bring together, share this platform, elevate these voices and bring them along with me. So it's about the 'we'. But I believe we all have a responsibility. You get through the door and every one of us has a responsibility to look back... and extend your hand and pull someone in with you."

This sparks a personal journey for Imran, an Ismaili Muslim of Indian ethnicity and East African heritage who was once a fashion outsider himself. He sets out to explore a critical question "How can a business built on exclusivity throw its doors open to all?

Back in London, he catches up with Sinéad Burke, who refuses to be excluded, despite fashion's poor record on welcoming people with disabilities. Sinéad and Imran reflect on her fashion journey which began at BoF VOICES in 2017, when she took on fashion's creative and business leaders, calling them out for entrenched behaviours. Now she advises leading luxury brands on common sense: what business would wilfully ignore the collective spending power of the 15 percent of the world's population?

Sinéad reveals that her quest has changed in recent years. As well as wanting to see inclusive products, she wants fashion companies to start with who and how they hire. "Five years ago, if you'd asked me what success was, I would have said the availability of clothes. My vision has widened. I really do think the availability of product is important, but I think it's more important that we are hiring disabled people within these companies."

Imran and Sinéad head out to meet June Sarpong and Jamie Gill who were both appointed non-executive directors of the British Fashion Council following the Black Lives Matter protests in the wake of the murder of George Floyd. June, a renowned British TV broadcaster and Jamie, chief executive of Roksanda report that there is a real lack of diversity behind the scenes in fashion and provide guidance to industry leaders on how to welcome people from all backgrounds.

"The first thing to do is to connect with the most disenfranchised group within your organisation and ask them what their experiences of your organisation. That's going to tell you everything about your culture," says June.

"We've got to do something visually, externally projecting that we are welcoming," adds Jamie "From the operational side, [we need to show] what is it like to be an operations director of a fashion business... I think we do need to be working on that as a collective."

Things take an uncomfortable turn when Sinéad's refusal to be treated differently leads to her own unease in the face of a mannequin being made in her image. She finds the process unsettling because her body shape is so different from all the others in the North London factory, then concludes, triumphantly, there's space for us all.

"My mannequin is a composite of me. My lumps. My bumps, my curves... When I first saw the mannequin in person, I was pretty insecure about it, because it didn't look like any of the mannequins that I had seen... But I'm not uncomfortable with me. It's the world making me feel like I don't conform to everything else. And actually, that discomfort proves the importance of this."

Imran's journey provokes deep reflection on representation. But the answer to the central question is clear - belonging is good business.
"The BoF Show with Imran Amed", an immersive video series streaming on Bloomberg Quicktake airs on Thursdays at 9pm New York time and is available for Explore the first Related Articles: Why Some Black Founders Are Uneasy About Fashion's Diversity Initiatives Retailers Pledged Action on Diversity. Delivery Is Proving More Elusive. When Your Corporate Diversity Strategy Isn't Enough How Fashion and Beauty Can Better Engage with Black Businesses six episodes here and stay tuned for the biweekly episode launches. on-demand viewing.

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Belonging: The Business Case for Diversity in Fashion

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How can an exclusive business built on keeping people out let more people in?

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I find that most catwalks are not as diverse as I would like them to be and defiantly not as much as they should be at this stage a edition of vogue what was made that depicted women of colour although this is a great way of inclusion it also underlines the issue with diversity in fashion as this was considered a special issue rather than it just being considered a regular issue in vogue

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Sustainability is about more than sustaining the Earth: we must sustain ourselves as well. The fashion industry is starting to implement sustainable fashion practices in order to protect the environment, but it often falls short when it comes to "us," meaning inclusivity and equality among people.

Minorities often get the short straw in this industry as racist acts such as unequal treatment, lack of inclusivity, and exploitation are still present. Shouldn't addressing racism within supply chains be part of building an ethical and sustainable business?

Racism is as pervasive a problem as climate change and pollution. Here's a look at some of the most prominent issues that minorities face in the fashion industry.

What's Wrong

1) Poor Working Conditions

In many of the countries where the majority of clothing is manufactured, environmental and personal conditions are poor. These poor conditions amount to extra vulnerability to climate change, contaminated or insufficient water supplies, and more.

This is a phenomenon called environmental racism. In the United States, Blacks were reportedly exposed to 1.5 times more pollutant than whites, and Hispanics were exposed to 1.3 times the amount of non-Hispanic whites.

These environmental problems directly affect the communities they are present in, and it is often people of color in these garment producing countries that get hit the hardest. A prime example of this issue in developing countries is the dumping of toxic waste by developed regions to third-world countries who lack the resources to effectively process the materials. Additionally, in developed countries, due to socio-economic inequality communities of color are the ones who tend to live in more polluted areas.

Labor rights violations are present in the US too. There are garment workers employed in Los Angeles factories under sweatshop conditions who are not being paid fair wages.

Source

Research has shown that companies with diverse leadership boards tend to be more innovative, enjoy a stronger sense of community, have better equity and diversity policies, and practice more environmentally sustainable tactics. However, minorities are often overlooked in the hiring and promotion processes.

Elle Santiago, a former assistant store manager at Reformation, told the story of her deprivation of a deserved promotion. She explained that her manager "consistently hired white women with the same or less qualifications as [her], over [her]." She continued to say that Reformation had people of color doing the work of important titles without actually giving them the title.

Conversely, Rachel Faller, founder of the zero-waste brand Tonlé and the only white person on the team, recalls that having a diverse group of employees is pivotal to their work in sustainability. A diverse team allows for more perspectives, insights, and first-hand experiences that help shape the sustainable goals for a company.

3) Lack of Inclusivity

Source

For a long time, there has been an obvious lack of racial diversity in the fashion industry, both in terms of models and leadership. Some brands do provide diverse representation however this has often been looked at as merely a box to check off in order to appear to be inclusive. This is because diverse representation is still very sparse and often occurs only after public scrutiny. Still, the majority of the faces that we see in the fashion world are White.

Attempts made by brands to promote diversity in their workplace often prioritize representative faces, voices, and bodies that will satisfy their White consumers. This makes it nearly impossible for people of a different race, culture, or body-type to feel represented in this industry.

About 40% of the U.S. population is non-White, with the average clothing size for women between 16 and 18 and for men over 20 the average waist size is 40.3 inches. These statistics are dramatically underrepresented in the fashion world.

Sustainable and ethical fashion brands are by no means exempt from the issue of inclusivity. We have certainly seen an uptick in diverse faces in the fashion industry, but there is a long way to go.

Inclusivity can never really be "checked off" as it is a constant factor that needs to be worked on. By listening to the voices of the underrepresented, fashion brands and other industries can start to make changes and do better.

4) Exploitation

The fast fashion industry has been relying on the exploitation of garment workers for the entirety of its existence. Fast fashion is defined as "an approach to the design, creation, and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trends quickly and cheaply available to consumers."

This industry offers inadequate pay and poor working conditions in order to maximize its own profits. Garment workers are often forced to work unpaid overtime (and they often do so because they cannot afford to lose their job).

Of the 74 million garment workers across the world, 80 percent of them are women of color. The low wages usually fall below a living wage, meaning they are not enough to provide workers and their families with basic human necessities.

In countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia, orders have been cancelled due to COVID-19, and brands are refusing to pay suppliers for product and work that has already been completed. This leaves countless garment workers uncompensated for their labor. After years and years of relying on these workers, brands are now turning their backs on them.

To help drive change, you can sign the PayUp Fashion petition or take any of the following actions.

How You Can Help

Source

Shop Minority-Owned Brands

To do your part in supporting people of color, you can start by supporting minority-owned sustainable businesses. If you are unable to purchase something from them, sharing their shop with your friends and family can help as well!

Further Opportunities for Activism

Aside from shopping from minority-owned businesses, there are plenty more ways to take action. From donations to conversations, everyone can help in solving this issue. Start with these steps, and keep the momentum going!

We need to create sustainable change, and the fashion industry is but one place to begin. The goal is to sustain our planet, ourselves, and our people. This can only happen if we work creatively, diligently, and most importantly, together.

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Racism in the Fashion Industry & How to Combat It

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Sustainability is about more than sustaining the Earth: we must sustain ourselves as well. The fashion industry is starting to implement sustainable fashion practices in order to protect the environment, but it often falls short when it comes to "us," meaning inclusivity and equality among people.

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A local clothing designer is bringing diversity and vibrancy to the fashion industry.

Michnat Fashion is an Afrocentric clothing brand founded and owned by Funmi Odeniyi. She lives in Dartmouth with her husband and four children.

In her studio, a small room in the family's basement, her passion comes to life.

"I infuse African print into my designs to create contemporary feels," she said.

A bright, colourful outfit drapes a mannequin in the middle of her studio. It is a custom-made design she is working on.

Gesturing to the outfit, Odeniyi said the fabric is an African print mixed with satin, but the style is a modern cut.

"I've always had a passion for fashion growing up. I started making pieces when I was little, about ten," she said.

She started making her own outfits, beginning with skirts and spaghetti tops. Her mother had a tabletop sewing machine at home in Lagos State, Nigeria.

"I think she has a thing for fashion too, but she never picked it up, so I picked it up," she said.

Growing up, she had a neighbour who was a seamstress and a cousin who was a tailor. As a hands-on learner, she watched and learned from them.

"I juggled between both of them, learning from watching them and picking it up," she said.

Now she makes clothing for both men and women.

In Nigeria, Odeniyi says careers in the fashion industry, like being a seamstress, "wasn't a thing, my parents wanted me to be something else. So I studied accounting and became an accountant and started working in the banking industry back home."

But her passion for fashion was relentless.

When she and her husband moved to Canada, she decided to refocus, thinking, "We are starting a new life, so why not just start all over?"

She worked as an accountant in Canada for a while before finding the time to focus on designing. When she was on maternity leave with her fourth child, she started making clothing again and realized she had to do it full time.

"It was during maternity leave that I started getting inspiration. That is when I got the name, Michnat Fashion," which got its title from her childrens' names.

Her children enjoy it when she involves them in the design. Sometimes when she makes smaller projects, like scrunchies, they help.

The next generation motivates her, so she wants to inspire children and teenagers who might have a similar dream to hers. She says it's one thing to have passion and another to be able to grow it. She plans to offer workshops and classes to teach designing, sewing, and stitching.

"When you're passionate about something, it just keeps you going," she said.

Upon arrival in Canada, Odeniyi saw a lack of diversity in fashion and decided that Michnat Fashion's goal would be to add colour and uniqueness to an otherwise bland industry.

"I believe there is a need for diversity," she said.

So far, building her business in HRM is going well.

"I'm so glad it's not just Africans who buy my product ... it's a mix, which makes me feel fulfilled," she said.

Her product usually sells out when she hosts pop-up shops, but some customers are uncertain, "They are like, 'Can I wear this? Is it cultural appropriation?' "

She said it comes down to communication and education. She lets them know that there's no cultural appropriation if it's not a cultural outfit.

"We do have cultural outfits, but this is definitely not," she said, pointing at her own designs.

She said Michnat Fashion is for anyone who wants to stand out.

"The good thing about what I do, some people want to look outstanding, look different from what we'd regularly see at the store. So yeah, I make their dream come true."

Have a story idea? Let us know

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Dartmouth-based designer brings diversity to fashion industry

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A local clothing designer is bringing diversity and vibrancy to the fashion industry. Michnat Fashion is an Afrocentric clothing brand founded and owned by Funmi Odeniyi. She lives in Dartmouth with her husband and four children. In her studio, a small room in the family's basement, her passion comes to life.

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If you are a white woman, you are not going to pick up Essence or Black Beauty and Hair magazine. You are not going to pick up any Asian magazines (the few that still exist).

The reason you are not going to pick up any of these is not because you are racist.

The simple reason is that these women don't look like you.

The beauty tips don't apply to you. The fashion is worn by models with different body shapes and skin tones to you. While you can admire the pictures, it's hard to be inspired to buy clothes you can't quite picture on yourself.

This is what living as a woman of colour is like in the Western world every single day. From the mainstream magazines we pick up to catwalk shows sweeping through the major cities twice a year.

I'm not the first and sadly won't be the last to say it, but diversity - and for sake of ease, I'm referring to colour diversity - is a big problem in the fashion world.

When you raise the question, it's a real stinker - you might as well have farted extra loudly in the FROW at a Karl Lagerfeld show.

Some are afraid to talk about it - 'it's too controversial' came the refrain when I tried to ask for comment but at the same time, almost everyone is trying to pretend like fashion doesn't have A Race Problem.

Bethann Hardison and Naomi Campbell

Of course, there are a few who will speak out. Black supermodel Bethann Hardison wrote a powerful Op-Ed in The Business Of Fashion last week about the overt whiteness and of fashion week.

Naomi Campbell and Iman have long been passionate advocates of colour diversity, but clearly more needs to be done by the people who actually dictate the terms of fashion - because change isn't happening fast enough.

The representation of white models on the catwalks remained at 79% after the count for Spring/Summer 2016 - the same as it was for Autumn/Winter 2015.

Chatting to HuffPost UK Style, she said: "Yeah, it's there - how can you avoid it? But they have a strategic view of what they are looking for.

"And I don't hate the person who needs to pick the models for the show, because you're showcasing their baby, effectively. But for me, I really don't think the West knows black beauty, period. And that's it.

"Because everything about it is imitated and acted out but it's not told from our perspective. So how can you expect people who don't know your beauty to showcase it? They don't respect it. Even when I'm at a shoot or shows, they don't respect me as a beautiful person.

"In my history line of my ancestors, we've been like monkeys entertaining people on a stage. Now I'm just on another platform."

The ' designer's vision' is a key defence from some corners, when asked about why there aren't more models of colour at shows.

Talking to HuffPost UK Style, Burberry model Neelam Gill said: "When I look at other shows especially in Milan or Paris, they mainly use white models and if they use a coloured girl it'll be one black model, one Asian model.

"They'll never use more than one - and there are about 10 white models. I think that kind of tokenism is wrong.

"People like Naomi, Bethann Hardison and Iman have a panel and they called out some of the designers and said: "You don't have enough girls in the show," but a lot of the designers response was: 'Our inspiration for the show (was something different) - then they go on about the Renaissance, and that's how they try and justify it."

Look designers, have you not heard of black Othello? If the theatre and dance world can transcend and look beyond colour when it comes to depicting historical periods, why can't fashion?

But artistic vision is only one part of the problem. No one can quite seem to agree on the root of the problem, hence the fix or solution is a lot harder to arrive at.

Hardison's op-ed addressed a very interesting aspect; she believes designers want to use more models of colour, but modelling agencies are holding them back.

She wrote: "Modelling agencies are not allowing the girls to be seen by all the brands that request their models - many white girls are sent, but never the good working black model, unless the brand is very important. That's a problem."

On the flipside of that, BMA Models, who ran a diversity campaign during London's SS/16 Fashion Week say that the problem is with the clients.

Audrey Adjibadji, representing the agency, said: "We are constantly trying to push our ethnic models to clients but there is little demand and we find it difficult to maintain a steady work flow for them; this seriously affects their morale and income.

Her advice is that clients need to be more "open-minded", because for instance, in the UK, the ethnic population has risen by 40% in eight years (Source: Census 2014, IPA, Mintel June 2014).

"Like it or not, what we see in fashion affect how we see things: it needs to show the diversity of the population, especially for the future, to show the younger generation that everyone is accepted and 'fashionable'. In the end, it will define how we see ethnic models and it will become natural to see and acknowledge them."

To revisit Nykhor Paul's point that the industry doesn't know what to do with her type of beauty, there is no place more evident than backstage at shows.

Paul's Instagram post was after yet another makeup artist couldn't cater for her skin where she wrote: "Dear white people in the fashion world! Please don't take this the wrong way but it's time you people get your shit right when it comes to our complexion!"

Neelam Gill can definitely relate. She said that when she first started modelling, she was made to feel like doing her skin was a hassle.

"(They were) like 'Oh, I have to mix so many shades to get your colour' and it made me feel awkward or like it was extra work for them."

But, she also highlights why it is so critical that more models like her are used because it creates a trickle-down effect in terms of how brands cater to different types of beauty.

"When I first started working with Burberry," she says, "they had to mix a few shades to get my tone, and now Burberry recognised they needed more shades and they made one that's perfect for my skintone. That's why me working more is good because it highlights issues that they may not have recognized before."

Gill's story highlights one of the positive ways diversity can impact the real world.

But conversely, it seems incredibly short-sighted for the fashion industry to present one version of beauty, when by representing more, they can tap into a bigger market and make more money.

In 2012, Ben Barry, a CEO of a modelling agency, conducted a study that looked into how much more likely women were to buy clothes, if the models looked like them.

He wrote: "Consumers increased their purchase intentions by over 175% when they saw models who reflected their age; in particular, women over the age of 35 increased their purchase intentions by 200% when they saw older models.

"When models didn't reflect their age, consumers decreased their purchase intentions by 64%. Furthermore, black consumers were 1.5 times more likely to purchase a product advertised by a black model."

Paul agrees. "When you open this up to a lot of people in this world, do you know how much money you would make? Imagine how much money Rimmel London and Maybelline would make if they catered to a (wider audience)?

"They are actually taking a paycut because they are trying to push white beauty. The world has so much variety. It's about the West moving past its comfort zone, and it is so comfortable with blue eyes and blonde hair because they are really afraid to lose themselves."

This 'comfort level' calls into question the roles magazines play in shaping the fashion industry because these are the people interpreting the trends to the masses and wielding the power to change the conversation.

Last year, Hadley Freeman wrote a stunning opinion piece in The Guardian about the issue. She said: "there is much for which the fashion industry deserves to be to be criticised... but the grotesque element in fashion that I personally find the most egregious is its blatant racism.

"Black models never, with single-digit exceptions in a decade, appear on the cover of major fashion magazines..."

Angel Clare, CEO of Models of Diversity, agrees. Talking to HuffPost UK Style, she says: "It took Vogue 12 years to put their first black model, Jourdan Dunn, on the front cover. That's disgraceful. But brands will happily use black celebrities for promotion, as they guarantee revenue and are "safe-for-white".

"In the UK I'm afraid we too often see tokenism regarding minority models, for example at the LFW shows. This is why I'm a big fan of W Magazine, not because they feature minority interests per quota but because this arises from having a more diverse staff.

"Maybe the simple answer then is we just need the industry to be more representative from the top down."

However, if some of the most successful supermodels in the world and fashion magazines can't change the conversation, who can?

In 2013 Naomi Campbell rather bravely wrote letters to designers asking why there weren't more black models in their shows. Victoria Beckham was one of them.

Although it's not Beckham's responsibility to feature more models of colour - there are plenty of designers who still don't - the change that would occur if she used her influence and celebrity to get behind such an issue would be phenomenal. Not to mention fashion moguls such as Anna Wintour or Carine Roitfeld.

"People like Anna Wintour, she is someone who can make so many changes," says Paul. "People like Vivienne Westwood or Karl Lagerfield - all of these people who are holding down the roots of fashion will have to be that voice."

One solution, says Clare, is to increase the representation of minorities in the professions with the power to choose the models.

Perhaps that would change the agenda, but the representation of white beauty is still one overwhelmingly pushed in fashion magazines. And that is where editors and beauty directors can change things, without being stymied by designers.

As a young girl and now a woman who has regularly bought fashion magazines over the decades, very little has changed on the beauty pages. Sure there's the token black model which is great for black women, but there is virtually nothing that caters to me as a brown-skinned, Indian woman.

I actually skip past them - it has the same relevance to me as a copy of Farmer's Weekly.

Gill says she has just shot some beauty editorials for Glamour and Elle and believes this is very important for the non-white girl on the street.

"When I looked at their past issues, I just was glad I had this opportunity. Because if I used high street makeup I wouldn't know what shades would suit me because their beauty editorials are maybe a white girl, black girl and Chinese girl."

It's incredible that an industry which is known for pushing boundaries, for translating art into clothing and showcasing some of the brightest minds of the century, is being held back by something as important as colour.

When Nykhor spoke out, she said was overwhelmed by the response to a post that had just meant to be a standard message. When I asked her why so many people were reluctant to speak out about Fashion Week's race issue and why the same names who are willing to speak out remain the same, she sighed.

"People are afraid (they will lose work), and people are afraid they are going to be put in a box. And there is nothing worse than being put in that 'angry black woman' box.

"I've had people that don't even know me, that haven't even seen how I am - that have said things like that about my character and it really hurts. Especially when you are saying something as basic as 'artistically I think you should do this and this better".

"It comes back to 'oh she's angry, oh she's difficult, oh you know those black people. Naomi does this, they're all angry.' It's a chain of bad reaction that makes a lot of black models hesitant. Because this is a job, and we are coming here to work; a lot of us have to feed so many family (members)."

There is hope though, that the tide is changing, even if it is happening at snail's pace.

Aamito Lagum, who won Africa's Next Top Model, went on to make history as the first black model to open for Balenciaga. No mean feat considering Paris is one of the 'hardest markets for models of colour to work in' and credit goes to Alexander Wang for trying to change the conversation.

Hotly tipped as one to watch, Lagum says she personally hasn't had a problem with makeup artists, but does advocate diversity.

"Having models representing different parts of the globe is a very strategic marketing tactic. Places like India, South Africa, Nigeria and Uganda, have a rapidly increasing segment of luxury fashion consumers.

"Call it wishful thinking, but I believe fashion would be grander if no race was left unrepresented."

For those too timid to make a big change, there is one area we can learn from, when it comes to diversity and an unexpected one at that: men's fashion.

Writing for The Huffington Post US, Chanel Parks noted that NYFW men's was far more diverse than the women's shows. She wrote: "If there's a trend worth noticing...it's the abundance of models of color walking the runways.

"At the time of this story's publication, there have been 90 appearances by models of color since the shows started on July 13 - and there's still a day left."

Francis Lifshutz echoed this on Paper, adding: "...The recent men's shows in Europe presented a refreshing array of diverse faces and offered us some hope that things are changing."

Clare comments: "If the male catwalk is more representative than the female catwalk, and it certainly feels that way to me, the reasons are complex and subtle.

"The starting point however, is the low representation of black models in general. Making a quick review of major agencies' books we see black models make only 5% of all models at best. So if four out of a hundred models are black with, say, three male and one female we would say "Look! Three times as many males!" and miss the point of overall under-representation.

"Naturally, if black models are poorly represented in the agencies then a designer will have less chance to find the particular look they're after. Body shape can also be a factor, I would suggest the difference is more pronounced in women than men, so it is probably easier to place a black male model than female.

"That said, why are we designing for one body shape?"

Audrey Adjibadji hits upon one of the key reasons why the men's market is more diverse: the pressure on beauty is less important.

"We ask more of women. People have an expectation of what they want women to look like. Fashion has constantly decided for women what is cool, but also what is acceptable, what make them beautiful: clothes, hair, size and even skin colour."

This takes us back to Nykhor Paul's point of understanding black and Asian beauty better.

"They don't understand it, and they fear it," she says. "They take it in doses."

While it may sound bleak - and is certainly true of the majority, there is some heartening change in Paris with designers such as Giambattista Valli, Stella McCartney and Couregges going beyond the token one model of colour.

If there is one clear conclusion to be drawn from this exhaustive research, it's that the diversity issue is a mess. It's clear that no one wants to be left holding a hot potato, and blame is being issued from all sides.

The good news is that this isn't an issue that is going away anytime soon thanks to the tireless work of models calling out designers and casting directors like James Scully, who are brave enough to speak out and say: 'this isn't right'.

It also requires voices in the media to make this a topic of the zeitgeist, which is why HuffPost US Style created #NYFW4All to champion and praise designers embracing diversity, and we piggy-backed by creating @LFW4All - something we are continuing next year.

And, as Angel Clare briefly mentioned - it's about getting non-white people into jobs where decisions are being made. On HuffPost US Style, senior fashion editor Julee Wilson touched on this, after speaking to designer Bibhu Mohapatra about a solution around diversity.

At a panel discussion in New York this week, he said: ""There are multiple reasons for this - one, fashion design still is a less exposed field as a viable profession in many cultures.

"However this is changing fast and more and more international students are getting into the field and embarking on their careers in fashion. Awareness and exposure is the ultimate remedy for lack of diversity in any field."

Don't be fooled by the seemingly complicated 'problem' of diversity. While there is a fog - to use Nykhor Paul's words - around why this still exists, the solution is actually a very simple one.

What it needs is one of the big voices in fashion to cut through the bullshit. Someone who isn't at the mercy of other people's politics and agendas.

But until that day comes, we'll be keenly watching the representation reports from each fashion week, and hope that those number of black and Asian models keep rising. And we have no problem shouting about it until it does.

See gallery

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Fashion's Colour Diversity Problem Is A Stinker, But Someone Has To Talk About It

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If you are a white woman, you are not going to pick up Essence or Black Beauty and Hair magazine. You are not going to pick up any Asian magazines (the few that still exist). The reason you are not going to pick up any of these is not because you are racist.

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https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/workplace-talent/michael-kors-owner-capri-launches-foundation-for-diversity-in-fashion/

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TORONTO, Canada - The lack of racial diversity on fashion runways repeatedly makes headlines around the world - often overshadowing the actual shows.

Some fashion brands have attempted to address the issue by casting diverse models. While this inclusion promotes racial visibility - something seldom seen in fashion - its execution is often limited to one collection or campaign. The tactic reinforces white models as fashion's rule, with diversity always the exception.

The fashion industry explains away the lack of diversity, using the bottom line - the "black models don't sell covers" excuse. Fashion creatives suggest that corporate powers discourage them from hiring racially diverse models because white consumers don't perceive them as aspirational. Although today's fashion brands draw from a diverse global consumer base, marketers explain that non-Caucasian consumers - whether they are living in Western or non-Western countries - look up to a white ideal and want only to associate with brands that sell this image. Even for those creatives who want to cast diverse models, budgets only enable the execution of one global campaign - and white models, supposedly proven to attract consumers, reduce risk.

By justifying the lack of diversity in fashion as a supposed consumer preference, the fashion industry seems to accept that its consumer market maintains a racist belief system. But my own research into whether there is a business case to support diverse models in fashion has revealed that it is the fashion industry, not consumers, that upholds a racist belief system.

In total, I surveyed and conducted focus groups with over 3,000 women. In one study, I assessed the responses of black and Caucasian women in Canada and the United States to models in fashion advertising that reflected their races. Black women were 1.5 times more likely to purchase a fashion product advertised by a black model. Caucasian women's purchase intentions did not change regardless of whether the model in the fashion campaign was black or white.

In my focus groups, black women told me that seeing a model that mirrored their race made them feel beautiful because they rarely saw black models in fashion advertising. They subsequently felt connected to the brand and inspired to celebrate their beauty by shopping from that brand. Although they did not share the same race, Caucasian participants identified with advertising that featured black models because they believed the brand upheld the values they aspired to, such as empowerment and inclusion. Caucasian women also explained that they could imagine the advertised outfit on themselves, regardless of whether or not they shared the model's racial background.

This study also investigated how Chinese women in China responded to fashion advertisements featuring Caucasian and Chinese models. Although the purchase intentions of most women in the Chinese sample increased when they viewed white models in fashion advertising, these findings are likely temporary. Commercial advertising was re-introduced into China only in 1979: as a result, Chinese consumers have a limited experience with advertising. They may become critical of the unrealistic appearance standard of white models once they have greater exposure to them.

In fact, a vocal group of younger Chinese women in my focus groups dismissed campaigns with white models as representing an unattainable image and instead gravitated towards Chinese models, whose image they considered more achievable. Some of these women were even hostile towards fashion brands that used Caucasian models because they believed campaigns with white models represented Western colonisation, and wanted to reclaim their own beauty.

Blaming consumers for the lack of diversity in fashion advertising is not only misguided - it misrepresents their mindsets. Not only do customers want to see diversity, they reject brands that whitewash their advertising. Instead of scapegoating the market, fashion should focus on its own belief system - a belief system that normalises a fashionable body as a uniform age, size and race.

From design to marketing, each part of the fashion industry contributes to a system that erases diversity and each of us can intervene to change it - shifting the current dialogue from critique about the lack of diversity to the creation of an industry that celebrates it. Fashion educators can teach students to think critically about barriers that prevent the selection of diverse models and inspire them to promote diversity in their work. Executives and designers can challenge their assumptions and routine decisions, and consciously cast the panorama of their market. As you consider how to make diversity fashion's norm, know that consumers are on your side.
Dr. Ben Barry is an Assistant Professor of Equity, Diversity and Inclusion at the School of Fashion, Ryerson University in Toronto, Canada.

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Op-Ed | Diversity In Fashion Advertising Does Sell

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TORONTO, Canada - The lack of racial diversity on fashion runways repeatedly makes headlines around the world - often overshadowing the actual shows. Some fashion brands have attempted to address the issue by casting diverse models. While this inclusion promotes racial visibility - something seldom seen in fashion - its execution is often limited to one collection or campaign.

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https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/marketing-pr/guccis-all-black-campaign-diversity-inclusion/

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OXFORDSHIRE, United Kingdom - Diversity in fashion was one of the most widely-discussed topics at VOICES, BoF's new annual gathering for big thinkers, and models Joan Smalls and Hari Nef both have first-hand experience of the industry's issues with discrimination.

Smalls, who is mixed-race, and Nef, who is transgender, were joined on stage by IMG Models president Ivan Bart, and, in a conversation with BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks, urged the industry to rethink its limited perceptions of beauty.

"You should be reflective of the world you live in," said Smalls. "I look at this crowd, beautiful faces from different backgrounds and that's the world I see. So when I see a runway with all the same models that are just cloned, I'm like: 'Is that your beauty? Is that your world?' It's very one-sided and bland. Brands have to be more open-minded when they choose their cast; they hold a responsibility to represent consumers."

"There needs to be a greater awareness of who wears the clothes," echoed Nef. "The fashion industry fetishises diversity," she continued. "It's like 'diversity day' - but that never means a blue chip campaign or a big contract."
Related Articles:
[ Models Face Bullying, Cruelty and Racial Discrimination at Castings ]
VOICES is BoF's new annual gathering for big thinkers in partnership with QIC Global Real Estate.

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Joan Smalls and Hari Nef on Discrimination in Fashion

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OXFORDSHIRE, United Kingdom - Diversity in fashion was one of the most widely-discussed topics at VOICES, BoF's new annual gathering for big thinkers, and models Joan Smalls and Hari Nef both have first-hand experience of the industry's issues with discrimination.

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Catwalk On Wheels: Inclusive Fashion is The Highlight Fashion Week

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We're rounding up the brands that shined during the fashion week casting inclusive representation.

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In contrast to London Fashion Week, London Represents brings you slow fashion and models who represent London in a truly ethical and inclusive fashion show

On 18th February 2022 the most sustainable, ethical and inclusive fashion show is back for its 10 th year, and to be held in an iconic central London location. Born in 2002 when sustainable fashion and diversity on the catwalk were still seen as being alternative and underground. London Represents, a small London conglomerate, began hosting fashion shows during London Fashion Week that bucked the trend by showing clothes that were about people before profits.

Focusing on collection from emerging designers, the show's aim is to prove that fashion can be on trend, while still taking into considering the environmental impact of producing the garment and the social impact of the people who are making the products.

Equally important is the representation on the Catwalk of the models. Perhaps the most inspirational aspect of the show is the number of disabled models who walk, alongside traditional models, and represent a true London with a mix of races, sizes and genders.

"We believe the fashion industry is much more than a trend, it is a way to communicate our ideas and personality. This is why it's so important to have a diverse catwalk where everybody is represented.

- Samanta Bullock - show organiser and inclusivity campaigner

"The impact of fast fashion on the environment as well as workers' rights is devastating. We believe that by showing a glamorous alternative, created by designers who focus on slow and sustainable fashion we can help shape a better future for fashion.

- Gaia Beck - Show organiser

Noemie Jouas, Neo Dresses label, with her designs

Ran By Nature - totally inclusive fitwear

About London Represents

London Represents has evolved from a student based show in East London to a large scale Central London show. It attracts established designers from across the world who are coming to London to take part in the show. Dear Ocean Community From Portugal and {E} Portare from Brazil. Whilst never losing sight of the talented British, emerging designers that the show first aimed to support, including Midlands Fashion Awards sustainable designer of the year Serefina Rose.

The models are also chosen largely from campaigners and influencers who are known for making a impact within their community, such as Kathleen Humberstone Downs Syndrome Model and Vegan campaigner Nicole Whittle.

The show shines a spotlight on both the need to buck the trend of fast fashion and the lack of diversity in the fashion industry. The uplifting nature of the show, which offers a massive contrast to anything they are likely to see on a catwalk during London Fashion week creates an X-factor that often makes a lasting impact on the audience. The stunning venue, which will be licenced with a bar and DJ, is perfect for networking between shows.

50% of the profits from the show will go directly to Bullock Inclusion, a CIC that aims to support inclusive projects in fashion and sport.

Here are all the designers at the 2022 London Represents show

AUF - fashion for little people creating clothes that fit - #beAUFAUGENHOEHE

[E] Portare - by the Brazilian designer Juliana Carvalho. Timeless bags, handcrafted by powerful women and family leaders from Brazilian Slums

Dear Ocean Community - a sustainable swimwear brand. Created in Portugal, with Brazilian design and made of non-squeezing Lycra, with a biodegradable fabric and lining.

Elidy's Couture - custom made occasion wear from the UK

N - Noemie Jouas is a French and Japanese fashion designer based in London. Her feminine and playful designs have sustainability embedded in them as she makes pieces from second hand textiles and deadstock fabrics once destined to landfill.

Poetry House - a sustainable brand of unique upcycled pieces, along with a range of Urban apparel, made from % organic/ Fairwear approved cotton

Ran By Nature - ethical athleisure for mindful movement and sustainable living. Seasonless, inclusive and sustainable as standard. Their products have been independently tested and are made in the UK from eco-friendly, recycled fabrics. 10% of their profits are given to charity.

SB Shop - combines fashion and inclusion beautifully. In collaboration with brands to develop collections, always pushing for diversity, representation, and acceptance in all spaces. In addition, SB Shop also operates in the educational sector, with courses, lectures, and content focused on Adaptive Fashion.

Sophia Teal - bridal and occasion wear that's custom made in the UK

Unhidden Clothing - award winning and socially responsible, adaptive fashion brand. Created by Victoria Jenkins, a garment technologist with 14 years fashion industry experience. Unhidden is about more than stylish and dignified fashion- it is also about raising awareness and working towards equality for the disabled and chronically sick community.

There are a limited number of tickets available to the public, on sale now via Eventbrite: https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/238452306267

#LondonRepresents #IRepresent #bullockinclusion

You may also enjoy reading Orsola de Castro - the ethical fashion revolution starts in your wardrobe

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London Represents - London's most ethical and inclusive fashion show

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In contrast to London Fashion Week, London Represents brings you slow fashion and models who represent London in a truly ethical and inclusive fashion show On 18th February 2022 the most sustainable, ethical and inclusive fashion show is back for its 10 th year, and to be held in an iconic central London location.

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The young label Ester Manas broke from the crowd in Paris with a truly diverse cast of models.

Ester Manas, fall 2022. Credit... via Ester Manas

There's a lot to see at fashion week. Blink (or scroll too fast) and you'll miss the details: feathered bags, futuristic sunglasses, fork jewelry. All month long, we'll spotlight the things we saw that surprised or delighted us.
PARIS - For many years, the fashion industry has been criticized for its lack of diversity in the types of bodies shown on runways.

Some progress has been made, and some seasons are better than others. But for the most part, at the most prominent fashion shows of New York, London, Milan and Paris, the landscape during the season that just ended looked like this: one plus-size model and one mid-size model was cast among a sea of size-zero (or thereabouts) models.

So it was refreshing, toward the end of this Paris Fashion Week, to see these ratios entirely flipped - even if only at one show - by a young brand called Ester Manas, designed by the Brussels-based duo Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre.

Ester Manas, fall 2022. Credit... via Ester Manas

It was only Ms. Manas and Mr. Delepierre's second runway show. In 2020, the label was a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize, a prestigious contest for emerging designers, in which the duo set themselves apart technically: About 90 percent of their collection comes in one size that fits several - from about 34 to 50 in French sizing, or 2 to 18 in American sizing.

So, of the 29 looks presented at their runway show on Saturday, less than one-third were worn by conventionally thin models.

Yet instead of feeling like some extraordinary, yassified act of body-positive rebellion, the designers pulled off a more impressive feat: It just felt normal. The models - like women who buy clothes in the real world, like the audience watching the show - represented a wide range of sizes.

Still, these weren't necessarily everyday clothes for every women, though that's true on most runways. These designs were ruched (which allows the broad size range), sheer, brightly colored and sexy, but securely constructed, exposing midriffs in a way that never seemed too exposing.

Backstage, after the show, a few models teared up, Mr. Delepierre said, because "they couldn't imagine they could walk on the catwalk in Paris."

But the designers emphasized that their casting wasn't intended as an ethical stance, or by wanting to create some body-confident utopia. It was practical. They needed to show the clothes this way to sell the clothes. (Their largest stockist is Ssense.)

"We have to show how the pieces move," Mr. Delepierre said.

"It's about reality," Ms. Manas added. "It's not about dreams."

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The Most Size-Inclusive Brand at Fashion Week

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The young label Ester Manas broke from the crowd in Paris with a truly diverse cast of models. There's a lot to see at fashion week. Blink (or scroll too fast) and you'll miss the details: feathered bags , futuristic sunglasses , fork jewelry .

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Sure, we may talk a lot about diversity and inclusivity in fashion, but what does that really look like? Are we talking about racial diversity? Size inclusivity? Ability? What does an inclusive runway really look like?

Well, here's an idea:

On Feb. 19 - the day after New York Fashion Week formally came to a close - in a nondescript room on the third floor of a nondescript building in New York City, models of a variety of races and sizes and ages and genders and abilities walked down a runway for the brand SmartGlamour.

Read more: Only 0.1% of Models at New York Fashion Week Were Plus-Size, Finds New Report

One model with a prosthetic leg wore a pink, red and gray floral dress. Another model, who has albinism, wore a strapless yellow number.

"When I launched SmartGlamour, I launched it to be all-inclusive, to be affordable, to be ethically made and for everybody," its founder and designer, Mallorie Dunn, 28, told Mic before the show.

Fashion runways, not to mention fashion ads and magazines, have started focusing more on inclusivity and body positivity recently. But Dunn, who's been a fashion designer for 10 years, says she wasn't trying to capitalize on a trend or movement so much as do something she's felt strongly about for years.

"Three or four years ago, I was thinking about just in conversations I had with my loved ones and coworkers, and I would get impassioned about the way women talk about themselves," Dunn said. "They would just talk so badly about themselves. And women have way more to offer than just our appearances."

To counteract that narrative, Dunn decided to start SmartGlamour, which is size-inclusive, stocking sizes XXS to 6X. She also wanted to make sure the clothes could be customized, so she could offer her customers the same-quality clothing many others can attain. For her shows, it only made sense for the models to represent her customers, who can be anyone, regardless of size or shape or ability or identity.

At the same time, Dunn also makes sure to not use her models as tokens, as sometimes happens when a designer hires one plus-size woman for his show (like Marc Jacobs recently did) and makes headlines for just that. They become a spectacle.

Instead, since 2014, Dunn has had women of all sizes and shapes walk alongside one another as equals. Other designers are starting to do the same at Fashion Week, like Chromat, which included not only amputee model Lauren Wasser, but also 85% models of color.

"Even though I'm a small brand, these women that model for me come away with a really wonderful experience, because I'm basically telling them, 'You are all on an equal playing field and you're all wonderful,'" Dunn said. "And the rest of the media just isn't telling anybody that."

The message extends beyond the runway. In January, Dunn launched the #ImFlattered campaign, which highlighted the most common unsolicited advice women have heard about what they should wear or how they should dress for their bodies.

The message is clearly resonating. Viewers and fans of the brand crammed the room to capacity for the show, with people standing in the corners and filling up every chair.

"I hope that [the show's viewers] see someone that they can relate to in some way," Dunn said. "Whether that's somebody who's plus size, whether that's somebody who has a disability, whether that's somebody who's really short and just sees that person and thinks, 'OK, I could do that.'"

She also hopes other brands are watching.

"They think that in order to make money, you have to make people feel like they're always wanting to reach this unachievable goal when it's not necessary," Dunn said. "You can also just make people feel really good about themselves, and then they'll want to buy things from you."

So if you're wondering what a diverse runway looks like, here it is. Watch Mic's entire video on SmartGlamour below:

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The Most Inclusive Fashion Week Show Was the One You Didn't Hear About

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Sure, we may talk a lot about diversity and inclusivity in fashion, but what does that really look like? Are we talking about racial diversity? Size inclusivity? Ability? What does an inclusive runway really look like? Well, here's an idea: On...

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Vogue Business analysed all shows and presentations on Vogue Runway for AW23 to determine the level of size inclusive representation. There's a long way to go.

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The debate around size inclusivity reached a peak this season, as journalists called out the lack of body diversity on the runway and emerging size-inclusive designers highlighted the shortcomings of luxury brands when it comes to mid-size and plus-size representation.

According to Vogue Business data collected throughout fashion month, the Autumn/Winter 2023 season failed to make progress in terms of size representation on the runway. Of 9,137 looks across 219 shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, just 0.6 per cent were plus-size (US 14+) and 3.8 per cent were mid-size (US 6-12). This means 95.6 per cent of looks presented for AW23 were in a size US 0-4.

Vogue Business analysed every AW23 runway show and presentation reviewed by Vogue Runway from the official New York, London, Milan and Paris calendars to determine the proportion of total looks that are straight size, mid-size and plus-size. Brands were contacted to allow them to verify the data and informed that if they did not verify, the initial figures collected by Vogue Business would be used. Sizing ranges were determined based on typical sample sizes for straight sizing and established definitions of mid and plus-size.

Across the entire season, only 17 brands featured at least one plus-size look. The brands with the highest percentage of plus-size models over a US 14 were Sinéad O'Dwyer, Ester Manas, Karoline Vitto, Di Petsa and Bach Mai. These same brands also featured the highest percentage of mid-size models. Data was determined by number of looks, to account for one model potentially representing multiple looks for bigger bodies on the runway. However, most of the top-ranking shows featured a greater number of mid-size models, with very little plus-size representation. And it's important to note that many of the bigger brands like Dior, the mid-size looks on their runways were on the cusp of the straight-size range.

"Plus-size representation has gone backwards," says Felicity Hayward, a plus-size model who was scouted 12 years ago, when there were no plus-size models in the British fashion industry, by fashion photographer Miles Aldridge. Hayward, who has been tracking plus-size representation since 2019 through her project #IncludingTheCurve, stopped attending London Fashion Week in 2019 due to the lack of size inclusivity, but returned last season for SS23.

What happened to size inclusivity in fashion? Over the last decade, the body positivity movement has grown online, with curve models such as Ashley Graham, Paloma Elsesser, Jill Kortleve and Alva Claire becoming household names. Brands like Versace featured plus-size models on the runway for the first time in 2021; Dolce & Gabbana and Erdem extended their sizing ranges; and the press heralded a new era for size inclusivity in fashion. Even Victoria's Secret did away with its fashion show, criticised for only featuring straight-size women, and cast curve models like Elsesser and Kortleve in its campaigns. Now, injectable diabetes drug Ozempic, an appetite suppressant, is trending and the media is declaring that " heroin chic is back ".

"Bodies should never be a trend. We need inclusive bodies on the runway so that bodies don't become trends," says Hayward. "If you want to create a new generation of people who are having less mental health issues and body image issues and reaching body neutrality, it is by pressuring these designers to show everybody."

Some brands have expanded size range to reach a global plus-size market projected to reach $288 billion in value this year, per Future Market Insights. Gucci's AW23 collection will be produced in sizes IT34 to 54, and for tops, skirts, jerseys, T-shirts, sweatshirts and underwear the sizes range from XXXS to 4XL, according to the brand. And Chanel said their AW23 collection will be sold up to a FR50 (US18/UK22). Gucci had 10 mid-size models, while Chanel had four, however, no plus-size models walked the runway at either show to present how their expanded sizing range could look above a US12.

"It's a shame when brands do actually make bigger sizes but they don't show it on the runway," says Amsterdam-based former model and influencer Vivian Hoorn who, based on her experiences in fashion, founded inclusive modelling agency Scala management and size-inclusive clothing brand Viveh. "From experience, I can tell you, plus-size is selling. I would be a customer for them if I could see plus-size looks [on the runway]."

Emerging talents are leading the charge. Why?

While the industry's major players fail to represent mid-size or plus-size bodies, fashion's emerging talents are driving size inclusivity forward. London topped the rankings this season in terms of plus-size representation, driven by emerging designers Karoline Vitto and Sinéad O'Dwyer, both in their second ever show season, who presented 100 per cent and 90.5 per cent of looks on mid-size and plus-size models, respectively.

Vitto, who is from Brazil, is part of incubator Fashion East. Her show featured 75 per cent mid-size and 25 per cent plus-size models, wearing not just stretchy dresses but tailored separates and jackets. "AW23 was a huge achievement for us personally because it included tailoring, which is a completely different making process from Jersey," the designer says. Adapting all of that to curve and plus was a huge undertaking to be honest."

Inclusivity has always been a core part of Paris brand Ester Manas's identity since it launched back in 2019. "Having an inclusive casting has always been one of our ethos since the first collection," the brand says. "The main concept of our garments is to be one size and fit all body types," the brand says, adding that certain products they are creating this season such as trousers will have dropped two sizes as it's difficult to apply the 'one-size fits all' model across all categories. "It wasn't difficult at all, we [have] worked with the same casting director since the start who understands what we're looking for, and our garments fit any model we chose to have anyway, so there's no sizing difficulties for us."

While creating bigger size ranges comes naturally to emerging talents, casting plus-size models requires brands to think ahead of time, designers agree, as the quick turnaround nature of runway casting, typically done in the days running up to the show, doesn't allow for the kind of alterations needed to adapt pieces to variations for bigger bodies.

"Last season we found it very difficult to do the casting process," O'Dwyer says. "The system of seasonal fashion and doing shows has not been created to have diverse people on the runway." For AW23, she precast 12 of her models out of 21 in collaboration with casting director Emma Matell. She then made their looks made-to-measure, including a three-piece suit in size 22. This season, she wanted to focus on the tailored garments, which she can produce in size UK 6 to 30 (US 2 to 26), which require more alterations depending on the model. "It was nice to be able to have someone really embody the look and not just go with whoever it fits."

New York brand Collina Strada takes a similar approach, says founder Hillary Taymour. The brand included one plus-size look and 10 mid-size looks at its February show. "It definitely varies depending on the season and the models. We sometimes make looks ahead of time and then alter them to fit individuals, but generally it just takes a small effort and thought process beforehand to accommodate sizing on the runway."

Another issue is a lack of model availability, designers agree. London designer Ahluwalia's show featured two mid-size girls, but the team also created six looks in a UK 18. "There are only a select number of mid-size and plus-size runway models and because of that, all the brands kind of battle each other to cast them in shows," the brand said in an email.

"We make the collections for what I want to represent. We had one model [this season] who was a size 14 US who I loved so much we ended up putting her in the most looks in the show," says Christian Siriano, who included 17 mid-size looks and one plus-size look in his AW23 show. "There are obviously challenges to developing clothes early on in so many different sizes - it's a lot of work."

Working with materials such as knitwear is helping Tokyo-based label CFCL cater to various body types. "Taking advantage of the unique elasticity of knitwear, for example, dresses and skirts have the same width, and only the length differs by 10 to 12cm depending on the size," the brand said over email. This season's collection will have only three sizes - 1, 3, and 5 - and the brand says it used its runway show in Paris to highlight how the clothes can be worn on different body types, ages and genders. CFCL ranked number five for the top shows of PFW AW23 based on size inclusivity. Mark Fast, who ranked fourth in London, has a similar approach, with a size system of A, B and C for his stretch garments. "That is the beauty of knitwear. It lends itself to different body shapes as the nature of it is to stretch and contour around the body," he says.

Tokenism and box ticking

Jeanie Annan-Lewin, stylist and creative director of Perfect magazine, used to get excited when seeing a bigger body on the runway. But now she knows better: in her experience, the majority of larger mid-size or plus-size looks aren't shown to buyers at the showroom, don't go into production and can't be featured in shoots. "Don't put a plus-size model on the runway if you don't have their size, that's tokenism. But, if you do have a huge range, you should be showing models of all sizes," says Hayward.

While many of the brands assessed by Vogue Business included mid-size looks at the lower end of the range, Christian Siriano stresses that plus-size representation can often speak to a much wider demographic than straight-size models can. "Even if we're thinking about a woman who's a US 6 or 8, they can still often see themselves a bit more in a [model] who's a 12 or 14 US rather than they can when the dress is really small," he says. Most of Siriano's customers are either US 2 to 4 or US 16 to 18, he says.

Size-inclusive labels need retailers' support

Vitto is currently stocked at smaller e-tailers including Apoc Store and her own e-commerce site, which holds stock and offers made-to-order. For AW23, she's keen to build out wholesale to boost brand discovery. But, it comes with risks, as one store she works with only purchased smaller sizes.

"Moving forward, I don't want to dilute the brand," she says. "I don't want it to come to a place where the bigger sizes are only available on my website because that also creates another layer of exclusion because then the customer can't try them on in real life."

Net-a-Porter says there are limitations in what sizes they can buy based on what brands offer. The retailer is stocking a range of brands that focus on size inclusivity, mostly in the premium and affordable space.

Matchesfashion has been working on expanding its size range. Its core size range is XS to XL or UK 6 to 14, with everything outside of that on either end included in its extended sizing range. For SS22, the luxury multi-brand retailer increased its purchases of extended sizes by 40 per cent year-on-year, with sales for those sizes growing 60 per cent. It reflects "the demand for a broader range of sizing in luxury fashion", says head of womenswear Liane Wiggins. "Like our team, our customers are a diverse range of sizes, and we want to ensure our buy reflects this and that we are offering the best size range across our edit," she says.

Currently, 65 per cent of ready-to-wear brands at Matchesfashion offer inclusive sizing across the total edit. The retailer has worked with brands such as Zimmerman and Erdem exclusively to extend their size range, alongside brands such as Chloé, The Vampire's Wife, Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Roksanda. Extended sizes will be available for its SS23 exclusive capsule with Cecilie Bahnsen, and the retailer is working to offer a wider range for AW23. "For some of our smaller and more contemporary brands it can be challenging for them to extend across all sizes as it is a commitment in terms of product development, and there will always be cost implications. However, we have worked with several of our brands over the years to ensure we are offering a full and extended size run where we can," says Wiggins.

Siriano's business is fully direct-to-consumer now. "I've noticed a huge change in how our customers are shopping. Because we have such a range of sizes, we're getting such a range of diverse women coming in because they know there's going to be something they can try on. That's the biggest thing, because going shopping when you're different shapes and sizes or just in general can be a challenge."

O'Dwyer is already stocked at Ssense and H.Lorenzo and hopes to add more stockists next season. But it's a long road. "I've sometimes been like a bit frustrated because we'll put all this time into a great grading for a size that then it never gets bought," she says, "buyers sometimes buy all the small sizes and none of the bigger sizes - it can be quite disheartening." Last season, however, one retailer did buy up to a size 20, which gave her hope. "There's lots of challenges, but mainly lots of excitement."
With additional reporting by Emily Forkan Correction: This article was updated with data provided by Alexander McQueen, which clarifies that it used three mid-size models and one plus-size in its AW23 Paris Fashion Week show (16/03/23)
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
More on this topic: Why menswear is falling behind on size inclusivity How size-inclusive brands are overcoming manufacturing restrictions Brands are casting 'diverse' models. But they're still not challenging Eurocentric beauty norms

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Lucy Maguire, Maliha Shoaib and Ezreen Benissan

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The Vogue Business Autumn/Winter 2023 size inclusivity report

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Vogue Business analysed all shows and presentations on Vogue Runway for AW23 to determine the level of size inclusive representation. There's a long way to go.

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Are Fashion Shows The New Concerts? How And Why The Industry Is Shifting Toward Public Events

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Major brands are are moving toward a more inclusive fashion show model with fans and customers in attendance. TZR reports on the shift.

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Chromat was the most inclusive brand at NYFW in more ways than one. The brand is known for its size-inclusive swimwear and has carried inclusive sizing since it started, currently offering up to a size 30. For this collection designer, Becca McCharen-Tran, collaborated with the artist Tourmaline to create pieces for people who don't tuck. Many femme-trans people have struggled with swimwear bottoms that fit comfortably and Chromat is providing a solution. The show paid tribute to the late Marsha P. Johnson with hair, makeup, and location. The beach at Jacob Riis Park is where she met her lover.

With a cast of all shapes, sizes, races, and gender. The only thing missing was the usual NYFW attendees. The location was never publicly announced as the show was intended to be an event for the visitors and locals to enjoy. The inclusivity at this show was anything but performative and they didn't need an audience to prove that.

When asked what the vibe for the collection was, Tourmaline said, "We are here to show up and show out, knowing that the more of us that show up, the more powerful and beautiful we get to be."

Selkie

Selkie is known for its ethereal dresses that turn reality into a fairytale. For the brand's NYFW debut the casting was a dream come true with 12 plus models and a total of 23 size-inclusive looks, the show featured the most size diverse cast we had seen all week. An emotional performance from plus-size dancer, Arianna Davis, made many in attendance teary-eyed. We rarely see anything like this show at Fashion Week, and when we do it always leaves us wanting more. Let's hope other brands are taking notes.

Here's to showing up more, no matter your shape and size!

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Size Inclusivity at Fashion Week Was Good, But It Could Be Better - Here's Why

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Chromat was the most inclusive brand at NYFW in more ways than one. The brand is known for its size-inclusive swimwear and has carried inclusive sizing since it started, currently offering up to a size 30. For this collection designer, Becca McCharen-Tran, collaborated with the artist Tourmaline to create pieces for people who don't tuck.

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2017

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All the fashion looks search for xuan, fall-winter-2017, couture.

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All the fashion looks search for alexandre-vauthier, fall-winter-2017, couture.

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All the fashion looks search for alexandre-vauthier, fall-winter-2020, couture.

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All the fashion looks search for xuan, fall-winter-2020, couture.