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"Take a Tour of Base Camp" (Web Article)

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"Take a Tour of Base Camp" (Web Article)

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MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP, NEPALHundreds of international mountaineers journey to Mount Everest each spring hoping to make a successful ascent of the world's highest peak. The vast majority of their time, however, isn't spent climbing up the flank of the mountain. It's spent resting, acclimatizing, and preparing at the mountain's two principle base camps, one on the Nepal side and one on the opposite side of the mountain in Tibet. Life at base camp is an odd mix of mundane domesticity, logistical challenges, and the occasional flash of life-or-death drama.

A tale of two camps

There are two principle routes to the summit of Everest-each with its own base camp and unique flavor of tent-dwelling experience. The North Ridge, on the Tibet side of the mountain, offers easier access: It's possible to drive vehicles all the way to base camp. Many North side expeditions originate in Kathmandu, Nepal, and then drive across the border into China to reach the mountain.

The South Col route, meanwhile, is accessed through Nepal and typically requires a week of trekking to reach the foot of the mountain, though helicopters have taken a big bite out of the relative remoteness of this side of the mountain.

Both camps are pitched in two mighty glacial valleys. To the north, the Tibet base camp is located below the terminal moraine of the Rongok Glacier. And to the south, the Nepal base camp is located on top of the rock-covered Khumbu Glacier.

Camping at the limits of physiology

Both camps are pitched at about 17,500 feet for good reason. Somewhere between 18,000-19,000 feet, the human body enters a state of decay, above which life is not permanently sustainable. Scientifically and simply put: You don't want to try living any higher than here.

A well-provisioned base camp provides mountaineers with a home base from which they can dash up the mountain for three to five days at a time, and then return to recover in the relative comfort of thicker air.

A catered experience

According to popular Everest blogger Alan Arnette, Nepal's Ministry of Tourism has issued 375 Everest climbing permits for the 2019 spring season; on the North side, there are reportedly 144 foreign climbers. It's illegal to simply show up at base camp with a climbing permit, pitch a tent, and try to climb the mountain. All foreigners must climb the mountain through a locally licensed logistics company, which supply base camp accommodations, meals, and basic bathroom facilities.

For every one foreign climber, there are three to four local workers living in base camp as well-either climbing sherpas working on the mountain itself or base camp staff-the cooks, dishwashers, servers, and team managers who all look after the guided clients.

This small army of service industry workers are overwhelmingly Nepali, though not all ethnic Sherpas, and they are the engine that keeps base camp humming.

So, what's for dinner?

It's been said that an army fights on its stomach, and it's the same on Everest. Expeditions invest massive amounts of effort and resources to provide their clientele with the best food they can. Most commercial expeditions strive to provide three square meals a day, which include a protein, carbohydrate, and some form of fruit or vegetables. Staples like rice, pasta, eggs, canned fruit and vegetables, and flatbreads (locally known chapati) form the bulk of the ingredients, but a creative chief will find ways to keep the diet interesting. Regular shipments of fresh produce delivered via yak, helicopter, or jeep help immensely.

In between mealtimes, there's plenty of hot drinks, dried fruit, candy bars, and the omnipresent can of Pringles potato chips for snacking.

A separate mess tent serves Nepali food (almost exclusively tea and a traditional Nepali stew of boiled rice and lentils called dal bhat) to the local workers.

Big city problems

Expedition campsites are generally taken on a first come, first serve basis. Some savvy organizers even send local representatives to stake a claim to prime real estate months in advance. With hundreds of people camped out in a few square miles, base camp organizers face many of the same problems as urban planners in small cities.

At Nepal's Khumbu Glacier base camp, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee insures that basic sanitation standards are upheld. Chinese officials perform the same function at the at the Rongbok Glacier base camp. Bathroom tents are constructed so that waste can be removed in trash bag-lined plastic barrels, to be hauled to lower elevations and disposed. Trash is likewise collected and removed. Although these practices ensure modern camps are kept relatively clean, venture off the trail a bit and you will discover large piles of trash-the remnants of expeditions from earlier, less enlightened times. On the Nepal side efforts are ongoing to gradually remove all this trash. This year, in an effort to limit the amount of trash and waste, Chinese officials restricted access to the Tibet base camp to climbing expeditions, forbidding tourists from visiting.

High-altitude glamping

Like all cities, there are some "neighborhoods" that are better than others, which is to say not all Everest teams enjoy the same accommodations. What separates a high-end camp from budget accommodations? The fanciest commercial outfitters now provide walk-in wall tents with beds, unlimited electricity through gasoline generators, hot showers, strong reliable Wi-Fi, projectors for after-dinner movies, and even dedicated tents for yoga and stretching. But such creature comforts don't come cheap. The most luxurious operators charge upwards of $100,000; while budget outfits cost between $25,000 - $40,000.

Don't show up at Everest base camp looking for disco balls and epic parties, however. Most teams remain relatively insular and turn in early-until they've summited, at least.

At the end of the season, most guided climbers beeline it for home as quickly as possible, but there's still weeks of work left for the base camp staff to dismantle everything and see that it transported down valley for safe storage. Many operators rent storage space in nearby villages to avoid the long journey back to Kathmandu.

Base camp 911

Many large expeditions have their own doctors embedded with the teams. Otherwise, organized medical services are limited on both sides of the mountain. If you have a serious medical issue, it's imperative to leave base camp as quickly as possible and descend to lower altitude.

At the Khumbu Glacier base camp, the Himalayan Rescue Association's "Everest ER" provides walk-in services; patients with serious issues are evacuated via helicopter to Kathmandu as quickly as possible. At the Rongbok Glacier base camp, there's primary medical care in Tingrit, a four-hour drive in a four-wheel drive vehicle.

You either love it or hate it

For some, base camp is a form of purgatory-a temporary asylum where one must spend four or five weeks in exchange for the chance to climb Everest. For others, it's the ultimate summer camp, a place and community unlike any other on Earth. Either way, for those who want to ascend to the highest point on the planet, these are the two starting points.

Editor's Note: Writer Freddie Wilkinson is currently reporting from Nepal's Everest base camp and the surrounding region. Check back for more dispatches from the 2019 climbing season. The nonprofit National Geographic Society helped fund this story.

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MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP, NEPALHundreds of international mountaineers journey to Mount Everest each spring hoping to make a successful ascent of the world's highest peak. The vast majority of their time, however, isn't spent climbing up the flank of the mountain.

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Suggested equipment from a real Mount Everest expedition company!

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The old saying " when you have the right tools you have the job have done " doesn't quite apply to Everest. However, with the wrong gear the results are quite predictable - catastrophe.

Expedition grade and 8,000m+ equipment is essential on Mount Everest. Just as important is that all gear has been tried and tested by the climber, and that they are familiar with each piece. Below is our list of what you'll need on Everest.

Mount Everest Clothing List:

Mount Everest Climbing Gear List:

Camping Gear List:

You can check out how much it costs to climb Mount Everest, as of 2020, here.

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Expedition grade and 8,000m+ equipment is essential on Mount Everest. Just as important is that all gear has been tried and tested by the climber, and that they are familiar with each piece of equipment. Here's our gear list of what you'll need on Everest.

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"Mount Everest's highest camp is littered with frozen garbage" (Web Article)

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"Mount Everest's highest camp is littered with frozen garbage" (Web Article)

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Mount Everest’s highest camp is littered with frozen garbage, and cleanup is likely to take years

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It is going to take years to clean up the highest camp on the world’s tallest mountain, according to a Sherpa that worked to clear trash and dig up dead bodies frozen for years near Mount Everest’s peak.

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"When you call someone a Sherpa, what does that mean?" 

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"When you call someone a Sherpa, what does that mean?" 

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When you call someone a Sherpa, what does that mean? - Document - Gale In Context: Middle School

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Page 138

LANGUAGE: Sherpa (or Sherpali); Nepali

RELIGION: Nyingmapa sect of Buddhism

1 Introduction

Sherpas are people of Tibetan origin who occupy the high valleys around the base of Mount Everest in northeastern Nepal. In the Tibetan language, Shar Pa means "people who live in the east." Over time this descriptive term has come to identify the Sherpa community.

According to Sherpa tradition, the tribe migrated to Nepal from the Kham region of eastern Tibet over a thousand years ago. Historians, however, suggest that the Sherpas were nomadic herders who were driven out of their original homeland in eastern Tibet sometime between the 12th and 15th centuries AD. As they migrated, they came into conflict with local inhabitants. This caused them to keep moving on in search of new pastures. The Sherpas crossed the Page 139 Himalaya Mountains and settled peacefully in their present homeland in northeastern Nepal.

2 Location

The current Sherpa population is estimated to be 154,622, according to the latest census figures available (2001). They mainly live in the Khumbu and Solu Khumbu regions that lie south of Mount Everest. Sherpas also live to the east of this area in Kulung. In addition, Sherpas inhabit the valleys of the Dudh Kosi and Rolwaling Rivers west of Solu-Khumbu, and they are also found in the region north of Kathmandu.

Kathmandu, the largest city in Nepal, has a sizable Sherpa population. Small numbers of Sherpas can be found throughout Nepal and in India. The Sherpas are small in stature, relatively fair in complexion, with the distinctive facial features associated with people of Tibet.

Sherpas live on hills that jut south into Nepal from the crestline of the high Himalayas. Rivers such as the Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi have carved deep gorges into the mountains, leaving a complex terrain of steep ridges and narrow valleys.

Sherpa settlements lie at the highest elevations of any human habitation. In Khumbu, their villages are found at 10,000 to 14,000 feet (approximately 3,000 to 4,300 meters). Winters at this altitude are severe, with snow covering the ground between November and February. No work can be done in the outdoors because of the frigid temperatures. Most Sherpas descend to lower elevations for the winter, leaving only the elderly in the villages.

February sees the onset of spring, with warming temperatures and clear skies. People

return to their villages for the lunar New Year festival in late February. The next three months are spent preparing fields and sowing crops. Summer temperatures vary according to altitude. At Nauje village (elevation 11,287 feet, or 3,440 meters) in Khumbu, the July mean temperature is 54°F (12°C). May to August is the rainy season, with most of Nauje's annual precipitation of approximately 41 inches (105 centimeters) falling during this period. August to November heralds another period of fair weather, when the harvest is gathered in.

3 Language

The language of the Sherpas, called Sherpa or Sherpali, is a dialect of Tibetan. It has also borrowed heavily from neighboring languages. Sherpas use the Tibetan script for writing. Sherpas

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use the Nepali language, the official language of Nepal, in their dealings with other people.

4 Folklore

A unique element in Sherpa folklore is the yeti, or "Abominable Snowman."(A Yeti is similar to North America's mythic Bigfoot.) According to one tale, yetis were far more numerous in the past and would attack and terrorize local villagers. One day, the elders of the village decided on a plan to eliminate the yetis. The next day, the villagers gathered in a high alpine pasture. Everyone brought a large kettle of chang (beer made from maize or corn). They also brought weapons, such as sticks, knives, and swords. Pretending to get drunk, they began to "fight" each other. Toward evening, the villagers returned to their settlement, leaving behind the weapons and large amounts of beer. The yetis had been hidden in the mountains watching the day's events. As soon as the villagers left, the yetis came down to the pasture, drank the rest of the beer, and started fighting among themselves. Soon, most of the yetis were dead. A few of the less intoxicated escaped and swore revenge. However, there were so few yetis left that the survivors retreated to caves high in the mountains where no one would find them. Occasionally, the Sherpas say the yetis reappear to attack humans.

5 Religion

The Sherpas belong to the Nyingmapa sect of Buddhism, the oldest Buddhist sect in Tibet. It emphasizes mysticism and incorporates local deities (gods). Thus, in addition to Buddha and the great Buddhist divinities, the Sherpa also believe in numerous gods and demons, which are said to inhabit every mountain, cave, and forest. These have to be worshipped or appeased through ancient practices that have been woven into the fabric of Buddhist ritual life.

Many of the great Himalayan mountain peaks are worshipped as gods. The Sherpas call Mount Everest Chomolungma and worship it as the "Mother of the World." Mount Makalu is wor shipped as the deity Shankar (Shiva). Each Sherpa clan recognizes mountain gods identified with certain peaks.

The day-to-day religious affairs of the Sherpas are dealt with by lamas (Buddhist spiritual leaders) and other religious practitioners Page 141 living in the villages. It is the village lama, who can be married and is often a householder, who presides over ceremonies and rituals. In addition, shamans (lhawa) and soothsayers (mindung) deal with the supernatural and the spirit world. They identify witches (pem), act as the mouthpiece of gods and spirits, and diagnose illnesses.

An important aspect of Sherpa religion is the monastery or gompa. There are some two dozen of these institutions scattered through the region where most Sherpas live. The monasteries are communities of lamas or monks (sometimes of nuns) who take vows of celibacy (never to marry). They lead a life in isolation, searching for truth and religious enlightenment. They are respected by and supported by the community at large. Their contact with the outside world is limited to the annual festivals to which the public is invited and the reading of sacred texts at funerals.

6 Major Holidays

The major festivals of the Sherpas are Losar, Dumje, and Mani Rimdu. Losar, which falls toward the end of February, marks the beginning of the New Year in the Tibetan calendar. It is celebrated with much feasting and drinking, dancing, and singing.

Dumje is a festival celebrated for the prosperity, good health, and general welfare of the Sherpa community. It falls in the month of July, when the agricultural work is complete, the trading expeditions to Tibet have returned, and the Sherpas are preparing to take their herds into the high pastures. Over a seven-day period, Sherpas visit their local monasteries and offer prayers to their gods. There is much eating and drinking, and members of the younger generation participate in singing and dancing.

The colorful Mani Rimdu celebrations are held four times a year, twice in Khumbu (at the Tami and Tengboche monasteries) and twice in Solu-Khumbu (at the Chiwong and Thaksindhu monasteries). Monks in colorful costumes and elaborate masks impersonate gods and demons and perform religious dances intended to scare the evil spirits.

Feasting and drinking accompany all Sherpa festivals and celebrations except for Nyungne. Nyungne is a ceremony in which penance is offered for sins committed during the previous year. For three days, laypeople abstain from drinking and dancing and may even undergo a complete fast. They visit the gompa to recite sacred texts with the lamas or repeat the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum. The principal mantra of the Buddhists, it is also found inscribed on prayer wheels. This phrase cannot easily be translated. It has many interpretations, one of which is "Om, the Jewel of the Doctrine is in the Lotus of the World." Monks and nuns keep to the restrictions of Nyungne for two weeks.

7 Rites of Passage

The name-giving ceremony of a Sherpa child is an important event. The local lama (Buddhist spiritual leader) is informed of the birth and the time that it occurred. On the basis of this information, the lama determines the child's name and when the naming ceremony should take place. Children are often named after the day of the week on which they were born. Thus a baby born on Friday would be called "Pasang" (the Sherpa word for "Friday"). The lama, relatives, Page 142 and neighbors are invited to celebrate the name-giving at a feast.

Children are usually raised by their mothers, as the fathers are often away from home for much of the year, tending herds of animals. Young girls are introduced to household chores at an early age, whereas boys tend to have greater freedom for leisure and play. Boys undergo an initiation ceremony between seven and nine years of age, which is presided over by the lama and accompanied by feasting and drinking.

For the wedding ceremony (z endi), members of the groom's family dress in their best clothes and go in procession to the bride's house. There, they are entertained with food and drink and are expected to dance and sing in return. They visit houses of relatives, where the procedure is repeated. The feasting lasts for a day and a night, before the party returns home with the bride. The actual marriage is observed by putting a mark of butter on the forehead of the bride and groom. The bride is given a dowry, usually consisting of rugs, woolen carpets, yak-wool mats, and even cattle, by family and friends.

When someone dies, the body is washed and covered with a white shroud (piece of cloth). The lama cuts off a lock of hair from the corpse, so that the life breath (pran) of the departed may leave the body, and reads from the sacred texts. The lama decides if the deceased is to be buried, cremated, or given a water-burial. The lama also decides when to remove the corpse, which may not occur for several days. The body is seated on a frame and taken for cremation or burial. The funeral procession is accompanied by flags and novice lamas blowing conch shells and playing drums and cymbals. After death, the family performs rites for the benefit of the departed and undertakes a ritual purification of the home. Sherpas believe that the soul remains near the house for 49 days, and on the last of these days a grand feast is held to complete the funeral rites.

8 Relationships

The Sherpas' most important rule of hospitality is that a visitor must not leave the house unfed or without a drink. Guests are entertained with Tibetan tea or beer. Visitors of high standing will be served a snack, or even a complete meal. Guests in Sherpa homes have complete access to both the kitchen and the area set aside for worship.

9 Living Conditions

Sherpa villages cling to the sides of sheer mountain slopes or sit on top of steep escarpments. Sherpa settlements range from villages with a few houses to towns such as Khumjung or Namche Bazaar with more than a hundred houses. In the higher elevations, a house is usually built in the middle of its owner's fields. Where more flat land is available, however, houses are clustered together in a group at the center of the village's agricultural land. Larger villages may have a community temple, a community mill, and religious monuments called stupas and chorten. There are few proper roads, and villages are connected by tracks and trails. Goods are transported by pack animals or on the backs of the people.

Sherpa houses have two stories and are built of stone. The roofs are flat and usually made of wood, weighted down by heavy stones. The lower level is used to house livestock, fodder, food, and firewood, while the upper story serves as the living quarters. The floor of the upper story room Page 143 is wooden, covered with carpets and rugs. There is no furniture; platforms and benches are used for sitting and sleeping. A small area of the house is set aside for an altar. Incense and butter lamps are kept burning before the shrine.

10 Family Life

Sherpa society is divided into a number of clans called ru. A person is required to marry outside his or her clan. Although there is no ranking of individual clans, they fall into two groups, the khadeu and khamendeu. The former are of higher status, and anyone marrying into the lower group loses this standing.

Sherpas choose their own marriage partners. The marriage process is a lengthy one that may stretch over several years. Following a betrothal, the young man has the right to live with his fiancée in her parents' house. This arrangement may continue for several years, during which the relationship may be broken off. Once the respective families feel that the marriage will be successful, a ceremony is carried out that formally confirms the marriage negotiations. Several months or even years may pass again before the wedding date is fixed.

Sherpa families are small by South Asian standards. The nuclear family is the norm in Sherpa society, with households consisting of parents and their unmarried children. A newly married son is supposed to receive a house on completion of the marriage. The newly married couple often lives with the wife's family until the wife has a baby. They may then move to live with the groom's parents. Most marriages are monogamous, although fraternal polyandry (brothers marrying one wife) is permitted and is even considered to be prestigious. Divorce is quite frequent among the Sherpas.

11 Clothing

Sherpa dress, like that of other Nepalese, is similar to clothing worn by Tibetans. Both men and women wear a long inner shirt over a pant-like garment, both made out of wool. Over this, they wear a thick, coarse, wraparound robe (bakhu) that reaches below the knees and fastens at the side. A sash is belted around the waist. Both males and females wear high, woolen boots with hide (leather) soles. The uppers are maroon, red, and green (or blue), and the boots are tied on with colored garters. An unusual feature of women's dress is the multicolored striped aprons that Page 144 cover the front and back of their bodies below the waist. Both married and unmarried women wear the rear apron, while the front apron is worn only by married women. Various ornaments and a distinctive cap called a shyamahu complete the dress of the Sherpa woman.

Traditional Sherpa dress is rapidly disappearing among Sherpa men. Many younger men who have worked for mountaineering expeditions wear Western-made high-altitude clothing.

12 Food

The Sherpa diet is dominated by starchy foods, supplemented by vegetables, spices, and occasionally meat. In addition, Sherpas drink Tibetan tea (tea served with salt and butter) at all meals and throughout the day. A typical breakfast consists of Tibetan tea and several bowls of gruel made by adding tsampa (a roasted flour) to water, tea, or milk.

Lunch is eaten in the late morning and may include boiled potatoes that are dipped in ground spices. Sometimes a stiff dough made from a mixture of grains (sen) is eaten with a thin sauce made from spices and vegetables, or meat if it is available. A typical dinner is a stew (shakpa) consisting of balls of dough, potatoes, and vegetables. Dairy products, especially butter and curds, are important in the Sherpa diet. Sherpas eat meat, but as practicing Buddhists they do not kill animals themselves.

A favorite beverage of the Sherpas is chang, a beer made from maize, millet, or other grains. This is consumed not only at meals, but also at most social and festive occasions. It has considerable symbolic and ritual significance in Sherpa society.

13 Education

Although primary schools are slowly being introduced into Sherpa areas, few Sherpas have any formal schooling. As might be expected, literacy rates (the percentage of people who can read and write) are low. Recent figures place the literacy rates of Sherpas age 6 years and older at about 50 percent.

Tourists from developed countries visit Nepal for mountain climbing expeditions. Some tour companies have established schools for Sherpa children. Parents' expectations for Page 145 their children's education are low, but new schools are helping to teach more children to read and write.

14 Cultural Heritage

The Tibetan tradition of religious dance-dramas known as cham can be seen in the festivals of the Sherpas. Elaborately choreographed, with monks dressed up in costumes and masks, the dances enact the triumph of Buddhism over demons. The temple orchestras that accompany these dramas are unique in the makeup of their instruments, which include drums, cymbals, handbells, conch shells, 10-foot (3-meter) telescopic horns, large oboes, and flutes made from human thighbones. The distinctive chant used by monks in their religious observances is also in the tradition of Tibetan sacred music.

15 Employment

Traditional Sherpa economic activities were centered on agriculture and trade. At lower elevations, where conditions allow cultivation, Sherpas raise maize (corn), barley, buckwheat, and vegetables. Potatoes were introduced to the Sherpas in the early 1900s and have become the mainstay of their diet. In Khumbu, with its higher altitudes, farming gives way to pastoralism (herding of animals).

Sherpas raise cattle and the yak, a cattle-like animal that does well at higher elevations. Yaks provide wool and milk by-products, such as butter, which are sold or bartered for grain. Hybrids of domestic cattle and the yak are used as pack and plow animals.

Trade between Nepal and Tibet is of considerable historical importance in the region.

Sherpas, because of their location and ability to handle high altitudes, have traditionally played a major role in the trade that moves through Nangpa La and other passes across the mountains. Salt, sheep's wool, meat, and yak are still brought from Tibet into Nepal, in exchange for food grains, rice, butter, and manufactured goods.

The Sherpas' reputation as excellent porters and guides on mountain-climbing and trekking expeditions has brought them a new source of income and, for some Sherpas, a comfortable living.

Page 146

16 Sports

Sherpas enjoy playing cards and gambling with dice. Wrestling and horseplay are popular among both boys and girls.

17 Recreation

Sherpa entertainment and recreation are largely limited to their traditional pastimes of singing, dancing, and socializing.

18 Crafts and Hobbies

Sherpas rely on the artisan castes to provide the material necessities of life. Some Sherpas have developed skills in religious painting and in liturgical (religious) chanting. The Sherpas have a tradition of folk singing and dancing.

19 Social Problems

Sherpa society has a high incidence of alcoholism and related medical problems. Similarly, although the situation is beginning to change, the lack of education among the Sherpas reflects to a large extent their isolation. Tourism has provided many Sherpas with a good source of income. It is common for Sherpas to give up the hard work of leading mountain tours when they have earned enough money to move to the city. Dependence on a tourist-based economy, problems with drugs, and the migration of Sherpas to Kathmandu are all indications of a changing Sherpa society.

Many Sherpas are concerned about the effects of climate change in the Himalayas. Increased temperatures have led to significant glacial melt, which makes mountain climbing more dangerous and the Sherpa homeland more prone to the possibility of devastating floods. The area has begun to experience extremes in weather, including droughts, which increase the number of forest fires, as well as intense rains, which cause flooding and landslides. Sherpa leaders have called on the West to step up efforts to curb climate change. They note that Nepal produces very little greenhouse gas, which is linked to climate change, compared to the vast amounts created by the industrial West.

20 Bibliography

BOOKS

Bodden, Valerie. Mount Everest. Mankato, MN: Creative Education, 2010.

Brower, Barbara. Sherpa of Khumbu: People, Livestock, and Landscape. Delhi, India: Oxford University Press, 1991.

Spilsbury, Louise. Living in the Himalaya. Chicago: Raintree, 2008.

Taylor-Butler, Christine. Sacred Mountain: Everest. New York: Lee & Low Books, 2009.

Source Citation

Gale Document Number: GALE|CX1931400338

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Page 138 LANGUAGE: Sherpa (or Sherpali); Nepali RELIGION: Nyingmapa sect of Buddhism Sherpas are people of Tibetan origin who occupy the high valleys around the base of Mount Everest in northeastern Nepal. In the Tibetan language, Shar Pa means "people who live in the east."

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"Inside a Mount Everest Teahouse" (Video)

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"Inside a Mount Everest Teahouse" (Video)

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Inside the hidden hotels that keep Mount Everest running

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On the Everest base-camp trek, teahouses provide a hot meal and a warm bed. Porters, who carry everything, often stay separately from the climbers.

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"Everest Through the Eyes of a Sherpa" (Website Article)

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"Everest Through the Eyes of a Sherpa" (Website Article)

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From BBC

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At least 11 people have died trying to climb Mount Everest this year. Kami Rita Sherpa, who's been to the world's highest summit more times than anyone else, tells the BBC too many climbers are led to believe Everest is easy.

On 13 May, exhausted and struggling to breathe, a Chinese climber in her early 30s staggered into Camp 3. At 7,162m (23,500ft) it was higher than she had ever climbed before. But the expedition was not going to plan and her dream of scaling Everest was slipping away.

Helping the woman, who did not want to be named, with her oxygen mask was the group's leader, Kami Rita Sherpa. Not just any mountain guide, but the world-record holder for summiting Everest - he notched up his 24th ascent to the summit later that month.

"I always try to make sure every client succeeds to the summit," says Kami. "But there is a line. The moment I realise that any of my clients will not make it, I will abort the mission."

Even from the outset, Kami saw that his client was struggling. Days earlier, she took 19 hours, twice the expected time, to trek from Base Camp to Camp 2. When she finally arrived, Kami made the decision she simply wasn't ready for the summit and had her flown back down to Kathmandu by helicopter.

Rejoining the group a few days later, setting off from Base Camp, things started well. But by 6,000m, she was already heavily reliant on supplementary oxygen, a resource normally reserved for altitudes of 7,000m and above. By the time they arrived at Camp 3, Kami had made up his mind. The risk was too great - he ordered her to be taken back down the mountain to safety.

"There is always a risk of avalanche and above Camp 3 the path is steep and treacherous," says Kami. If in doubt, descent is always the best decision, because Everest will always be there if you survive."

Everest is always dangerous. But this season, the death toll has been the highest for four years.

Overcrowding, bad weather and a record number of permits being issued may all be contributing factors. But Kami believes it's an increase in the number of less experienced climbers, like his client, that are making the problem worse. He blames some tour companies for underestimating the risks to novice climbers.

"Overcrowding is nothing new. This is not the reason people are dying. It's pressure on young climbers by some companies describing Everest as easy. Everest is never easy."

Many veteran climbers, such as expert mountaineer and writer Alan Arnette, have also warned of the risks of tourists with little or no training attempting to scale huge peaks such as Everest.

"Climbers need to wake up and understand that climbing a big peak like Everest is extremely risky. They need to stop believing just because they are with a 'Sherpa guide' who has summited Everest 10 times that they will be rescued if they get in trouble," says Alan.

"Even the strongest Sherpa cannot take an incapacitated person lower by themselves or expect extra oxygen to be delivered to 8,400m at a moment's notice. And helicopters have their limits, as do rescue policies and GPS devices."

Towering 8,850m above sea level, Mount Everest is the most famous mountain in the world. Located on the Nepal-Tibet border, this global beacon of exploration and endeavour lures hundreds of climbers every year.

But as Kami says: "Without a Sherpa, there is no expedition."

Descended from Tibetan heritage, the Sherpa community are an ethnic group, indigenous to the Himalayan region. But for many outside Nepal, the word "Sherpa" has become synonymous with those working as mountain guides.

Mostly young men, Sherpa guides are not just the muscle behind any expedition - carrying extra gear such as oxygen bottles, water and food - they are also expert navigators. Enduring freezing temperatures of -30C down to -50C, they help climbers to negotiate icefalls, avalanches and extreme altitude.

From Camp 4 up to the summit, climbers will enter what is commonly known as the "death zone". Operating above 8,000m, 95% of climbers will rely on supplementary oxygen carried in bottles. Sherpas must ensure their clients conserve their oxygen supply for the return journey.

"I keep checking everyone's oxygen levels, and in the event of extreme weather, I make strategic decisions about whether we ascend or descend to avoid any developing situations in the mountains," explains Kami.

Working as a mountain guide since 1992, last month Kami broke his own world record not just once, but twice. On 15 May, he reached the summit with 15 clients from China, before returning on 21 May with a second group of 11 climbers from India.

"I treat every climb with the same sincerity as the first," says Kami. "Whenever a client is successful, it makes my day. I believe breaking records is just a by-product."

Although the climbing season is short, often only a single week in mid-May, Sherpas look after the mountain for a total of three months. As well as fixing ropes and ladders before climbers arrive, they also undertake a huge clean-up operation, clearing the tonnes of rubbish left behind on the mountain.

In the language of Tibet, Mount Everest is known as Chomolungma, meaning goddess mother of the world. Many Sherpas believe that the summit of Chomolungma is home to the Buddhist goddess Miyolangsangma. It was she, they say, who allowed the first explorers, Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary, to reach the top in 1953.

For the Sherpa community, the mountain is not just a mass of rock, but a deity to be revered and cared for.

"We worship and have deep respect for the mountain," says Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, who has reached the summit eight times. "We trust it will save us from whatever comes."

Kami grew up in the same mountain village as Tenzing Norgay. Thame is just 20km (13 miles) from Everest Base Camp, and the colossal Himalayan mountain range influenced many aspects of his childhood. Just getting to school meant a four-hour trek and put young Kami's climbing skills to the test.

Life was hard. The area is far from major towns, food was often scarce and healthcare almost non-existent.

To earn extra money, aged just 10, Kami dropped out of school and began trekking with his elders up peaks exceeding 3,000m. In the evenings he'd listen to their stories, tales of the mountain passed down through generations of Sherpas.

"I wanted to be a monk and spent five years training at a nearby monastery," says Kami, "but how could I look for inner peace when back home the lives of my parents hung in the balance? There was no option but to return to climbing."

Still today, almost every household in Thame depends on the passing trade from visiting climbers; running lodges, transporting supplies back and forth on yaks and ponies, or working up at Everest Base Camp as a porter or cook.

However, it's the Sherpas who guide foreign climbers all the way to the summit who make the most money, bringing home between $5,000 (£3,960) to $8,000 (£6,330) in a single season.

In 1992, aged 22, Kami began working as a kitchen porter at Base Camp. Luckily for Kami, his older brother Lakpa was also working on the mountain as a guide taking climbers up to the summit.

For the next two years, Lakpa took Kami under his wing, pushing him through rigorous high-altitude training and getting him work guiding small groups out on short trips to help them acclimatise. Then in 1994, Kami finally got his first shot at the top.

The night before the final push to the summit, Kami remembers being too anxious to sleep. Instead, he thought about what his fellow Sherpas had advised: "Just pray for good weather!"

The following day under clear skies, both Kami and his client made their first ascent to the top.

"In that moment, my happiness was not about my first summit, but that my life would now be easier. With the summit of Everest on my resume, I would get more work."

Since Kami Rita's first ascent in the mid-1990s, technologies such as weather prediction systems, helicopters, climbing gear and satellite communications have all revolutionised the adventure industry. But rather than alleviating the demands on them, Sherpas say they have only increased.

With growing numbers of aspiring climbers arriving year upon year, more mountain guides are needed than ever before. This year 381 climbing permits were issued on the Nepal side, the highest since records began in 1953.

Tour companies charge visitors anywhere between $30,000 and $130,000 or more, in return for organising their permits, equipment, finding a guide, and ensuring an emergency plan is in place. This also includes an $11,000 fee which goes directly to the Nepalese government.

High-end luxury packages may include up to as many as five Sherpas per climber to manage bespoke demands such as unlimited bottled oxygen, more comfortable tents or even hot showers.

Kami describes his community as the "army of the mountains". But like many Sherpas, he feels that despite being an integral part of Nepal's tourism industry, their contribution is barely recognised by the government.

"We sacrifice everything for the mountain," says Kami. "We know the mountains the best and can help to save them like no-one else can. But the government has to trust us and make our profession a secure one."

According to Nepal's Department for Tourism, since 2010 the total number of registered Sherpas has decreased by a fifth. Many say they would prefer their children to stay in school rather than follow in their footsteps.

Many of Kami's frustrations with his own government relate to his experience on 18 April 2014, when 16 Sherpas were killed after a devastating avalanche at Khumbu Icefalls.

The icefall is a notoriously steep and treacherous part of the Khumbu glacier which climbers must negotiate between Base Camp and Camp 1. It is considered by most Sherpas to be more dangerous than standing on the top of Everest because large pieces of ice can easily become dislodged without warning.

Following the tragedy, the Nepalese government introduced medical and life insurance policies for all Sherpas working on the mountain. But for Kami, who lost an uncle and two close friends in the disaster, this was simply not enough.

On the day of the avalanche, he remembers being woken by his brother rushing into his tent at Base Camp. Following Lapka out on to the ice, Kami saw large groups of Sherpas gathered around on walkie-talkies.

Less than 2km north, dozens of Sherpas had been preparing the path at the icefall for the next season of incoming tourists. Huge blocks of ice the size of cars broke off the nearby glacier and fell over 1km right on top of where the group of Sherpas were working.

"We've always feared the Khumbu Icefall," Kami says. "But that day, our fear materialised into a catastrophe."

As the brothers headed up the mountain to help, Kami remembers seeing human limbs scattered in the snow. His brother discovered 11 bodies which had been forced together under the impact of the avalanche.

"We tried our best, but in the mountains, everything happens so quickly. We were powerless," says Kami.

As compensation, the government offered $400 to every family affected, less than a quarter of what a novice Sherpa would hope to bring home in a single season. The community were furious.

"That was all our lives were worth!" says Kami.

After the avalanche, Lakpa vowed never to return to the summit again. He now manages expeditions only from Base Camp. However, Kami, with little education, felt he had no alternative but to carry on climbing. His fear of the icefall has never left him.

"It's still the same," he says. "I still see the bodies sticking out of the ice every time I pass by."

After months of being away from his wife and children, on 25 May Kami finally arrived home. His wife Lakpa Jangmu had made a cake with the candles "24" confirming her husband's record-breaking achievements.

But surrounded by trophies stacked up along the living-room shelves and a life-sized poster of "Kami, the world record breaker" mounted just behind the sofa, it all raised the question, would he set out to break his own world record again next year?

"So many things in my life are uncertain and left without a plan," he says with a cheeky smile.

"I will think about next year... next year."

Production and graphics by Claire Press

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Everest through the eyes of a Sherpa: 'Climbers need to wake up'

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At least 11 people have died trying to climb Mount Everest this year. Kami Rita Sherpa, who's been to the world's highest summit more times than anyone else, tells the BBC too many climbers are led to believe Everest is easy.

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"Locals want to world to back off of Everest" (Web Article)

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"Locals want to world to back off of Everest" (Web Article)

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Everest is ‘the pride of the world.’ Locals want the world to back off a bit.

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The world has a fascination with Mount Everest – one that brings both money and destruction to Nepal's Himalayan region. Now, long-awaited regulations could transform how the mountain operates.

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"The Scary Things That Happen to the Human Body at Everest's Death Zone" (Web Article)

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"The Scary Things That Happen to the Human Body at Everest's Death Zone" (Web Article)

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Human bodies work best at sea level. Down here, oxygen levels are adequate for our brains and lungs. At much higher altitudes, our bodies cannot function properly.

But if climbers want to summit Mount Everest, the tallest peak in the world at 29,029 feet (8,848 meters or 5.5 miles) above sea level, they have to brave what's known as the "death zone."

This is the area with an altitude above 8,000 meters, where there is so little oxygen that the body starts to die, minute by minute and cell by cell.

In the death zone, climbers' brains and lungs are starved for oxygen, their risk of heart attack and stroke is increased, and their judgment quickly becomes impaired.

"Your body is breaking down and essentially dying," Shaunna Burke, a climber who summited Everest in 2005, told Business Insider. "It becomes a race against the clock."

In 2019, at least 11 people died on Everest, almost all of whom spent time in the death zone. It became one of the deadliest seasons on Everest in recent memory.

Some expedition companies blamed these deaths on crowding, noting that the peak became so choked with climbers during a rare period of good weather that people were stuck in the death zone for too long.

On 22 May 2019, 250 climbers attempted to reach the summit, The Kathmandu Post reported, and many climbers had to wait in line to go up and down.

These extra, unplanned hours in the death zone might have put the 11 people who perished at higher risk, though it's hard to determine the specific causes of each death.

One mountaineer said climbing Everest feels like 'running on a treadmill and breathing through a straw'

At sea level, the air contains about 21 percent oxygen. But at altitudes above 12,000 feet, there are approximately 40 percent fewer oxygen molecules per breath.

Jeremy Windsor, a doctor who climbed Everest in 2007 as part of the Caudwell Xtreme Everest Expedition, told Everest blogger Mark Horrell that blood samples taken from four mountaineers in the death zone revealed that the climbers were surviving on just one-quarter of the oxygen they needed at sea level.

"These were comparable to figures found in patients on the verge of death," Windsor said.

Five miles above sea level, the air has so little oxygen that even with supplementary air tanks, it can feel like "running on a treadmill and breathing through a straw," according to mountaineer and filmmaker David Breashears.

Climbers need to acclimate to the lack of oxygen

A lack of oxygen results in myriad health risks. When the amount of oxygen in your blood falls below a certain level, your heart rate soars to up to 140 beats per minute, increasing your risk of a heart attack.

Climbers have to give their bodies time to acclimate to the lung-crushing conditions in the Himalayas before attempting to summit Everest.

Expeditions generally make at least three trips up the mountain from Everest Base Camp (which is higher than nearly every mountain in Europe at 17,600 feet), going a few thousand feet higher with each successive trip before making a push for the top.

Over the course of those weeks at high altitudes, the body starts to make more hemoglobin (the protein in red blood cells that helps carry oxygen from the lungs to the rest of the body) in order to compensate.

But too much hemoglobin can thicken your blood, making it harder for the heart to pump blood around the body. That can lead to a stroke or the accumulation of fluid in your lungs.

On Everest, a condition called high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) is common - a quick stethoscope check can reveal a clicking sound as fluid that's leaked into the lungs rattles around.

Other symptoms include fatigue, a feeling of impending suffocation at night, weakness, and a persistent cough that brings up white, watery, or frothy fluid. Sometimes the coughing is so severe it can crack or separate ribs.

Climbers with HAPE are always short of breath, even when resting.

In the death zone, your brain can start to swell, which can lead to nausea and a form of psychosis

Acclimatization to death-zone altitudes simply isn't possible, high-altitude expert and doctor Peter Hackett told PBS.

One of the biggest risk factors at 26,000 feet is hypoxia, a lack of adequate oxygen circulation to organs like your brain. If the brain doesn't get enough oxygen, it can start to swell, causing a condition called high altitude cerebral edema (HACE). Essentially, it's HAPE for the brain.

This swelling can trigger nausea, vomiting, and difficulty thinking and reasoning.

An oxygen-starved brain can cause climbers to forget where they are and enter a delirium that some experts consider a form of high-altitude psychosis.

Hypoxic climbers' judgment becomes impaired, and they've been known to do strange things like start shedding their clothes or talking to imaginary friends.

Other possible dangers include insomnia, snow blindness, and vomiting

Burke said that while climbing, she suffered from a constant, relentless cough.

"Every second or third breath, your body gasps for air, and you wake yourself up," she said.

The air was so thin that she was unable to sleep properly.

"Humans will start to deteriorate," Hackett added. "Sleeping becomes a problem. Muscle wasting takes place. Weight loss takes place."

Nausea and vomiting from altitude-related illnesses, including HAPE and HACE, also cause a decrease in appetite. The glare from the endless snow and ice can cause snow blindness - temporary vision loss, or burst blood vessels in your eyes.

Temperatures in the death zone never rise above zero degrees Fahrenheit. "Any exposed skin freezes instantly," Burke said.

A loss of blood circulation to climbers' fingers and toes can cause frostbite, and in severe cases - if the skin and underlying tissues die - gangrene. Gangrenous tissue often needs to be amputated.

All this physical weakening and impaired vision can lead to accidental falls. Fatigue is ever-present, according to Burke.

"It takes everything to put one foot in front of the other," she said.

Poor decision-making can also lead climbers to forget to clip back into a safety rope, to stray from the route, or fail to properly prepare life-saving equipment like oxygen tanks.

Mountaineers climb through the death zone in a day, but they can wind up waiting in line for hours

Climbing in the death zone is "a living hell," as Everest climber and 1998 NOVA expedition member David Carter told PBS.

Typically, climbers attempting to bag the summit try and make it up and down in a single day, spending as little time as possible in the death zone before returning to safer altitudes. But this frenzied push to the finish line comes at the end of weeks of climbing.

Lhakpa Sherpa, who's reached Everest's summit nine times (more than any other woman on Earth) previously told Business Insider that the day a group attempts to summit Everest is by far the most difficult period of the trek.

In order to summit successfully, everything must go right. Around 10 p.m., climbers leave Camp Four at 26,000 feet. The first chunk of their climb is done in the dark, lit by starlight and headlamps.

About seven hours later, climbers typically reach the summit. After a brief rest filled with celebrations and photographs, the expeditions turn around, making the 12-hour trek back to safety and arriving (ideally) before nightfall.
This article was originally published by Business Insider.
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In addition to a lack of oxygen, there may be another reason it's called thin air--researchers have been exploring the relationship between weight loss and high altitudes. Last year, a study published in the International Journal of Obesity found a strong association between altitude and obesity prevalence within the United States. Using data for over 400,000 people, researchers found Americans living closest to sea level were four to five times more likely to be obese, compared to people who live well above sea level in Colorado.

Everyone knows the problems with correlation and causation:

The study was more complex than just correlation--it used statistical analysis to control for factors such as activity level, temperature, and urbanization. Still, the issue was something the researchers recognized--as one of the study's contributors, Dr Jameson Voss, noted, "While it is always important to remember correlation does not prove causation, in this case, we already know hypoxia causes anorexia and weight loss based on well controlled interventional data."

What causes weight loss at high altitudes? Many studies have looked at climbers at high altitudes and, expectedly, increased energy expenditure due to increased physical activity can contribute to some of their weight loss. Exercise at high altitudes doesn't fully explain weight loss, though. Studies have indicated that decreased energy consumption due to lack of appetite is one of the more significant causes of weight loss during high altitude exposure. Researchers conducted a study in a hypobaric chamber that simulated a 40 day ascent of Mount Everest. Despite having ample amounts of palatable food available, participants experienced a loss of appetite, leading to a decrease in caloric intake and subsequent decrease in weight. Because factors such as harsh environmental stressors were omitted and large quantities of appetizing food were provided, the researchers believe the findings suggested that "hypoxia can be sufficient cause for the weight loss and decreased food consumption reported by mountain expeditions at high altitude."

Weight loss can also occur at high altitudes in the absence of exercise. In a preliminary study, a group of obese, mainly sedentary males who spent a week at a moderately high altitude were able to lose weight without exercise. Although the participants were allowed to eat as much as they wanted, they consumed nearly 730 calories less than they typically did at a normal altitude. They also had significantly increased levels of leptin, the protein hormone that plays a role in appetite control and metabolism. In total, the participants lost an average of three pounds and managed to keep two pounds off one month after the study was completed.

The role of leptin in high altitude weight loss has become a bit of a debate because different studies have resulted in different findings. Some show an increase in plasma leptin levels with exposure to high altitude while others demonstrate a decrease with exposure to high altitude. This may be a result of confounding factors but such findings suggest there is even more to be discovered about how leptin and other aspects of conditions at high altitude affect weight loss.

******

Each year, climbers go up Everest and their weight often goes down.

This happens in the midst of an abundance of food--often food and other supplies make their way up to Everest Base Camp transported by yaks.

While preparing, those attempting the summit can burn an average of 6,000 calories daily. Successful summiters (like these from Malaysia) can be expected to use between 12,000-15,000 calories on summit day.

Climbers often report a preference for carbohydrates at high altitudes. For those attempting the summit at Everest, carb craving can be met by bringing comfort foods from home and also by eating one of the most common dishes served throughout the Himalayas--a traditional dish of lentils and rice.
Dal Bhat Rice (Bhat)
2 Cups Basmati Rice

4 Cups Water
Lentils (Dal)
4 Tablespoons Clarified Butter

1 Onion, chopped

2 Cloves Garlic, minced

1 Tablespoon Ginger, minced

1 Teaspoon Turmeric

¼ Teaspoon Asafetida*

2 Dried Red Chillies

2 Cups Lentils, rinsed

4 Cups Water or Vegetable Broth

Salt and Pepper to taste

Make the rice by bringing water to a boil, adding in the rice and reducing to a low simmer. Cover and cook the rice until it's firm and tender and the water is fully absorbed (should be about 25 minutes).

To make the lentils, saute onion, garlic and ginger in butter for one minute. Add lentils, spices, chillies and water or broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes until lentils are soft. Serve rice and lentils garnished with achar.

*Asafetida is a spice once described by Harold McGee as "one of the strangest and strongest of all spices" and is commonly found in Indian supermarkets.

Image Credits: xkcd.com, remainder by author.

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Climate change has arrived decisively at the roof of the world on Mount Everest: The highest glacier on the highest mountain on Earth is losing decades worth of ice every year, according to a new study by researchers who extracted an ice core from the glacier.

The study, published in the Nature Portfolio Journal Climate and Atmospheric Research, found that Mount Everest's South Col Glacier, which climbers traverse on their way to the summit, may have lost half its mass since the 1990s as a result of warming temperatures in the region. It may disappear entirely by the middle of this century.

The findings result from the 2019 National Geographic and Rolex Perpetual Planet Everest Expedition, which brought together 34 international and Nepali scientists, multiple Sherpas, and a series of logistical challenges.

The expedition was wide ranging, and along with the ice core included taking biological samples, creating a high-resolution map, and studying water quality as well as the history of Everest's glaciers, expedition head and lead scientist Paul Mayewski tells National Geographic. The team also installed five weather stations (two of them at the highest elevations in the world for weather stations).

"It was the most complete scientific experiment ever conducted on the south side of Everest," Mayewski says.

According to mountaineer Ryan Waters, who has summitted Everest six times but was not involved with this study, the South Col Glacier presents an impressive vista for climbers approaching the final stage of their ascent. "You quickly take in the huge snows and ice of the glacier pouring down from Everest above the high camp," he says.
See Mount Everest from a drone.
It was one of the focuses of the expedition because mountain glaciers around the world are in rapid retreat as a result of climate change. But, says Mayewski, a glaciologist who is director of the University of Maine's Climate Change Institute, there is relatively little information about glaciers at the highest elevations.

"And one of the questions was: As you get up that high, it obviously gets much colder. So are the glaciers on Everest, even as high as 8,000 meters (26,250 feet), which is where South Col is, retreating?"

Coring the highest glacier

A key component of the research was extracting a cylindrical piece of ice from the glacier, at an elevation more than 1,000 meters (3,200 feet) higher than the previous highest ice core ever collected. Doing so required adapting existing drilling equipment to be as light as possible so that it could be carried by hand up the mountain and operate in the thin air. Although the team conducted trials in extreme cold conditions in Maine, Iceland, and the Himalayas, there was no guarantee the equipment would work when it needed to most.

"That was lots of stress, actually," says Mariusz Potocki, a glaciochemist and University of Maine doctoral candidate who collected the core. "It was such a relief when it worked."

The results, however, shocked Potocki and the team. When the 10-meter (33-foot) ice core was analyzed, radiocarbon dating revealed that the ice at the surface was approximately 2,000 years old. In other words, any ice that had been laid down on the glacier in the past two millennia was simply gone. The core contained layers of annual ice growth-somewhat like tree rings-and by measuring their thickness, the team calculated that, assuming the rate of ice deposition has remained the same over time, approximately 55 meters (180 feet) of ice has been lost.

Based on measurements of warming and ice loss elsewhere in the Himalayas, the researchers infer that most of this loss has occurred since the 1990s. If that rate of ice loss continues, Mayewski says, South Col Glacier "is probably going to disappear within very few decades. It's quite a remarkable transition."

If the scale of the change surprised the scientists, it reflects what mountaineers like Waters have been noticing for years, not just on the South Col Glacier but throughout the Himalayas.

"I have noticed since first going to the Himalayas 20 years ago that many of the glaciers in and around the Everest area have changed quite a bit," Waters says. "The Khumbu Icefall has changed quite a lot over those years as well, so it is not only the highest of glaciers, but seemingly all of them."

How is it happening?

The researchers argue that the ice loss is likely greatly accelerated by a process called sublimation, in which snow and ice evaporate without transitioning through a liquid-water phase. Sublimation is common in climates that are cold and dry, particularly at high altitudes, but which experience a lot of sunlight and strong winds-all boxes ticked by the south face of Everest. And it is exacerbated on South Col Glacier, Potocki explains, by an almost complete loss of snow cover on the glacier's surface.

Snow has a high albedo -that is, it reflects most solar radiation back into the atmosphere. "If you lose the fresh snow, the ice is darker itself and just absorbs more solar radiation, so melting and sublimation appears more intense and the ice loss increases," he says.

"Mariusz and I drill ice cores all over the world, and we developed the drilling equipment for this expedition with the understanding that he would probably end up drilling through snow and then ice," says Mayewski. "It was a real shock to see that exposed ice surface."

For Mayewski, the findings add to a growing catalog of evidence that climate change is now fundamentally changing even the most remote areas of the world.

"We know the oceans are polluted-we know that they are warming and acidifying," he says. "We know that there are times even in mid-winter when warm air masses reach the North Pole and temperatures there are above freezing. We know that there are certain times in summer when the entire surface of the Greenland ice sheet is melting.

"And now, we have the evidence that even the highest glacier on the highest mountain in the world is rapidly losing its ice. So yes, it's a real wake-up call."

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"Microplastics are showing up in Mount Everest's snow" (Web Article)

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Bits and pieces of plastic are turning up all over, including in the snow on Mount Everest.

Reaching 8,850 meters (29,035 feet) above sea level, that mountain is Earth's tallest peak. Researchers found plastic in snow scooped from a spot 8,440 meters (27,690 feet) high, near Everest's summit.

"We've known that plastic is in the deep sea and now it's on the tallest mountain on Earth," says Imogen Napper. A marine scientist at the University of Plymouth in England, she was part of the research team. Plastic is everywhere in our environment, says Napper, who is also a National Geographic Explorer.

In the spring of 2019, Napper's team collected snow and stream water samples from several areas on the mountain. The researchers brought those samples back to the lab and tallied the number and type of microplastics each contained. Microplastics are plastic shreds smaller than 5 millimeters (0.2 inch). They come from bags, bottles and other items that have broken down into pieces.

All 11 snow samples from Everest contained microplastics. "I had no idea what the results were going to look like ... so that really took me aback," Napper says. A remote mountain that some consider pristine is polluted with microplastics, she says. Plastics also turned up in three of eight stream water samples, the researchers report November 20 in One Earth.

Perhaps the findings should not have been surprising. Each year hundreds of climbers attempt to reach the mountain's summit. They discard so much junk along their treks that the mountain has been called "the highest trash dump in the world." Most of the microplastics the team found were fibers made of a plastic called polyester. The plastic pieces likely come from climbers' equipment and clothes.

I.E. Napper et al/One Earth 2020

Data Dive:

1. Look at the map. Which sampling location is nearest to the summit (point marked "Mount Everest")? What is the distance (in either miles or kilometers) between the summit and the sampling location?

2. Which of the snow samples had the highest concentration of microplastics? Which had the lowest concentration?

3. How does the microplastic concentrations in stream samples compare with that for snow samples?

4. What factors may explain the differences between snow and stream samples?

5. How else might this data be presented?

6. In many studies, researchers will gather hundreds or even thousands of samples for analysis. In this study, though, they collected only 19 samples because it is difficult to transport materials up and down Everest. If that wasn't a problem, where else might the scientists have collected samples for their study to help them learn about how widely plastic is spread on Everest?

Power Words
More About Power Words

concentration: (in chemistry) A measurement of how much of one substance has been dissolved into another.

data: Facts and/or statistics collected together for analysis but not necessarily organized in a way that gives them meaning. For digital information (the type stored by computers), those data typically are numbers stored in a binary code, portrayed as strings of zeros and ones.

factor: Something that plays a role in a particular condition or event; a contributor.

fiber: Something whose shape resembles a thread or filament. (in nutrition) Components of many fibrous plant-based foods. These so-called non-digestible fibers tend to come from cellulose, lignin, and pectin - all plant constituents that resist breakdown by the body's digestive enzymes.

marine: Having to do with the ocean world or environment.

microplastic: A small piece of plastic, 5 millimeters (0.2 inch) or smaller in size. Microplastics may have been produced at that small size, or their size may be the result of the breakdown of water bottles, plastic bags or other things that started out larger.

plastic: Any of a series of materials that are easily deformable; or synthetic materials that have been made from polymers (long strings of some building-block molecule) that tend to be lightweight, inexpensive and resistant to degradation.

pristine: An adjective referring to something that is in original or near-original condition. It means something is somewhat old but in a seemingly "untouched" or unaltered condition.

range: The full extent or distribution of something. For instance, a plant or animal's range is the area over which it naturally exists. (in math or for measurements) The extent to which variation in values is possible. Also, the distance within which something can be reached or perceived.

sea level: The overall level of the ocean over the entire globe when all tides and other short-term changes are averaged out.

summit: (in geology) The uppermost part of a mountain or hill, or (verb) the act of climbing and reaching that uppermost point. (in public policy) A meeting between officials of some organization or governments, often with the goal of negotiating new rules, policies or treaties.

Carolyn Wilke is a former staff writer at Science News Explores. She has a Ph.D. in environmental engineering. Carolyn enjoys writing about chemistry, microbes and the environment. She also loves playing with her cat.

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Analyze this: Microplastics are showing up in Mount Everest's snow

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Bits and pieces of plastic are turning up all over, including in the snow on Mount Everest. Reaching 8,850 meters (29,035 feet) above sea level, that mountain is Earth's tallest peak. Researchers found plastic in snow scooped from a spot 8,440 meters (27,690 feet) high, near Everest's summit.

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"The dangers of oxygen deprivation on Everest" (Website Article)

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"The dangers of oxygen deprivation on Everest" (Website Article)

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From CNN

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On the peak of Everest, it can take minutes just to catch your breath. That's because, at an elevation of 8,848 meters (29,029 feet), each breath contains one-third of the oxygen found at sea level.

In May, British TV personality Ben Fogle was put to the test when his oxygen regulator exploded a few hundred meters from the summit.

One of his mountain guides, Ming Dorjee Sherpa, was able to sacrifice his oxygen mask, regulator and cylinder and descend to a lower camp without supplemental oxygen.

Then, on the Hillary Step, less than 50 meters from the summit, Fogle's second regulator and bottle exploded on his back.

"It was pretty terrifying. My heart just sank, because I couldn't really see a way out," Fogle said.

"It's a bit like going to Mars in a space suit and imagining what happens when you unzip it."

Thanks to the heroic acts of the Sherpas and expedition leader Kenton Cool, who gave Fogle his oxygen supply, the team reached the summit on May 16.

But time on top of Everest is short-lived, as the body is rapidly deteriorating, and you're more exposed than ever to the elements. If luck is on your side, you might get about 20 minutes to take it all in before it becomes intolerable, explains high-altitude medical expert Sundeep Dhillon.

"You are constantly reminded that you shouldn't be there," Dhillon said. "Most people can't survive more than a day or two at those altitudes with or without oxygen."

An accomplished mountaineer in his own right, Dhillon worked closely with Fogle and former Olympic track cyclist Victoria Pendleton ahead of their Everest expedition to raise funds for the British Red Cross.

Though physically fit and strong, Pendleton struggled with oxygen deficiency at high altitude. After complications at camp two, 6,400 meters above sea level, she was advised to pull out of the summit bid.

"Altitude is extremely humbling, and although we tested both of them in the lab, there is no sea-level predictor for how you're going to do," Dhillon said. "Victoria won't be the only world record holder or Olympian that's struggled on Everest."

According to Dhillon, fitness does not affect how efficiently the body performs in a low-oxygen environment.

Endurance at altitude is all down to genetics.

Surviving Everest is in your genes

To explore the biology behind human oxygen efficiency on Everest, Dhillon took part in two scientific expeditions to Everest in 2007 and 2013.

At 8,000 meters above sea level, on the balcony of Everest, Dhillon and the Caudwell Xtreme Everest team collected the least-oxygenated human blood samples ever recorded in "healthy" humans.

"We effectively had to drop our trousers and stick needles in each other's groins to get arterial blood," Dhillon said.

The oxygen levels recorded in the first expedition in 2007 were on par with those collected from critically ill patients close to death.

The team went back in 2013 to test the "superhuman" physiology of the Sherpa population of the Himalayas, who have lived at high altitude for centuries.

Among other findings, they discovered that the Sherpas' mitochondria - the part of human cells that respire to generate energy - were much more efficient at using oxygen.

The aim of this research was to identify how different people adapt to low oxygen levels - or hypoxia - at high altitude and to apply this understanding to critically ill patients.

A similar study in 2014 analyzed the genetic adaptations for high altitude found in residents of the Tibetan plateau.

'Rotting whilst trying to acclimatize'

Much of the Caudwell Xtreme Everest research was done at base camp at an elevation of 5,400 meters, which is above the highest altitude where humans can permanently live, Dhillon said.

"All the time you're there, you're rotting whilst trying to acclimatize."

Most people don't realize that a two- or three-month Everest trip only involves 15 to 20 days of actual climbing, he says. "The rest of the time, you're waiting for your body to acclimatize to the ever-decreasing levels of oxygen."

This is when acute mountain sickness kicks in, a result of the slight swelling of the brain.

Much like a hangover, acute mountain sickness manifests in the form of headache, dizziness, nausea, trouble sleeping and loss of appetite, according to the Institute for Altitude Medicine.

If untreated, it can morph into high-altitude cerebral edema once you reach extreme altitude.

"Your brain is now swelling because of the hypoxia, and it has nowhere to go because it's constrained by your skull," Dhillon said. "The only exit out of your skull is where your spinal cord comes down, so your brain is being squeezed out of your skull."

A person with high-altitude cerebral edema resembles a drunkard: confused, hallucinating and vomiting, with impaired judgment.

Another severe form of altitude sickness is high-altitude pulmonary edema, the accumulation of fluid in the lungs. Symptoms include shortness of breath, coughing, chest congestion and severe weakness.

If untreated, both cerebral and pulmonary edema can lead to coma and death.

Dangers of the Death Zone

Climbers who make it above 8,000 meters - into the Death Zone, as it's known - need to keep their wits about them.

The simplest task like sitting up out of bed will leave you short of breath, making you pant for a few minutes, Dhillon said.

A lack of oxygen to the brain affects your mental performance, too. If you were to try think of words that begin with the letter "T," at extreme altitude, you would be able to think of only two or three.

If climbers are sensible and have enough oxygen in reserve, they can get back down the mountain quickly as the air "literally gets thicker every few hundred meters," he said.

But perhaps the biggest danger is when climbers treat the summit as the journey's end point. According to Dhillon's estimates, "you've probably got a one in 10 chance of dying on the way down."

"People are perfectly capable of exerting themselves beyond their capabilities whilst underestimating the demands that those extreme altitudes place on you. They forget they're in the Death Zone."

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The dangers of oxygen deprivation on Everest | CNN

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On the peak of Everest, it can take minutes just to catch your breath. That's because, at an elevation of 8,848 meters (29,029 feet), each breath contains one-third of the oxygen found at sea level. In May, British TV personality Ben Fogle was put to the test when his oxygen regulator exploded a few hundred meters from the summit.

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"Price to Climb Mount Everest" (Web Article)

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"Price to Climb Mount Everest" (Web Article)

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Price to Climb Mount Everest Will Rise to 15000 This Year.pdf

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"Take a Tour of Base Camp" (Web Article)

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"Take a Tour of Base Camp" (Web Article)

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MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP, NEPALHundreds of international mountaineers journey to Mount Everest each spring hoping to make a successful ascent of the world's highest peak. The vast majority of their time, however, isn't spent climbing up the flank of the mountain. It's spent resting, acclimatizing, and preparing at the mountain's two principle base camps, one on the Nepal side and one on the opposite side of the mountain in Tibet. Life at base camp is an odd mix of mundane domesticity, logistical challenges, and the occasional flash of life-or-death drama.

A tale of two camps

There are two principle routes to the summit of Everest-each with its own base camp and unique flavor of tent-dwelling experience. The North Ridge, on the Tibet side of the mountain, offers easier access: It's possible to drive vehicles all the way to base camp. Many North side expeditions originate in Kathmandu, Nepal, and then drive across the border into China to reach the mountain.

The South Col route, meanwhile, is accessed through Nepal and typically requires a week of trekking to reach the foot of the mountain, though helicopters have taken a big bite out of the relative remoteness of this side of the mountain.

Both camps are pitched in two mighty glacial valleys. To the north, the Tibet base camp is located below the terminal moraine of the Rongok Glacier. And to the south, the Nepal base camp is located on top of the rock-covered Khumbu Glacier.

Camping at the limits of physiology

Both camps are pitched at about 17,500 feet for good reason. Somewhere between 18,000-19,000 feet, the human body enters a state of decay, above which life is not permanently sustainable. Scientifically and simply put: You don't want to try living any higher than here.

A well-provisioned base camp provides mountaineers with a home base from which they can dash up the mountain for three to five days at a time, and then return to recover in the relative comfort of thicker air.

A catered experience

According to popular Everest blogger Alan Arnette, Nepal's Ministry of Tourism has issued 375 Everest climbing permits for the 2019 spring season; on the North side, there are reportedly 144 foreign climbers. It's illegal to simply show up at base camp with a climbing permit, pitch a tent, and try to climb the mountain. All foreigners must climb the mountain through a locally licensed logistics company, which supply base camp accommodations, meals, and basic bathroom facilities.

For every one foreign climber, there are three to four local workers living in base camp as well-either climbing sherpas working on the mountain itself or base camp staff-the cooks, dishwashers, servers, and team managers who all look after the guided clients.

This small army of service industry workers are overwhelmingly Nepali, though not all ethnic Sherpas, and they are the engine that keeps base camp humming.

So, what's for dinner?

It's been said that an army fights on its stomach, and it's the same on Everest. Expeditions invest massive amounts of effort and resources to provide their clientele with the best food they can. Most commercial expeditions strive to provide three square meals a day, which include a protein, carbohydrate, and some form of fruit or vegetables. Staples like rice, pasta, eggs, canned fruit and vegetables, and flatbreads (locally known chapati) form the bulk of the ingredients, but a creative chief will find ways to keep the diet interesting. Regular shipments of fresh produce delivered via yak, helicopter, or jeep help immensely.

In between mealtimes, there's plenty of hot drinks, dried fruit, candy bars, and the omnipresent can of Pringles potato chips for snacking.

A separate mess tent serves Nepali food (almost exclusively tea and a traditional Nepali stew of boiled rice and lentils called dal bhat) to the local workers.

Big city problems

Expedition campsites are generally taken on a first come, first serve basis. Some savvy organizers even send local representatives to stake a claim to prime real estate months in advance. With hundreds of people camped out in a few square miles, base camp organizers face many of the same problems as urban planners in small cities.

At Nepal's Khumbu Glacier base camp, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee insures that basic sanitation standards are upheld. Chinese officials perform the same function at the at the Rongbok Glacier base camp. Bathroom tents are constructed so that waste can be removed in trash bag-lined plastic barrels, to be hauled to lower elevations and disposed. Trash is likewise collected and removed. Although these practices ensure modern camps are kept relatively clean, venture off the trail a bit and you will discover large piles of trash-the remnants of expeditions from earlier, less enlightened times. On the Nepal side efforts are ongoing to gradually remove all this trash. This year, in an effort to limit the amount of trash and waste, Chinese officials restricted access to the Tibet base camp to climbing expeditions, forbidding tourists from visiting.

High-altitude glamping

Like all cities, there are some "neighborhoods" that are better than others, which is to say not all Everest teams enjoy the same accommodations. What separates a high-end camp from budget accommodations? The fanciest commercial outfitters now provide walk-in wall tents with beds, unlimited electricity through gasoline generators, hot showers, strong reliable Wi-Fi, projectors for after-dinner movies, and even dedicated tents for yoga and stretching. But such creature comforts don't come cheap. The most luxurious operators charge upwards of $100,000; while budget outfits cost between $25,000 - $40,000.

Don't show up at Everest base camp looking for disco balls and epic parties, however. Most teams remain relatively insular and turn in early-until they've summited, at least.

At the end of the season, most guided climbers beeline it for home as quickly as possible, but there's still weeks of work left for the base camp staff to dismantle everything and see that it transported down valley for safe storage. Many operators rent storage space in nearby villages to avoid the long journey back to Kathmandu.

Base camp 911

Many large expeditions have their own doctors embedded with the teams. Otherwise, organized medical services are limited on both sides of the mountain. If you have a serious medical issue, it's imperative to leave base camp as quickly as possible and descend to lower altitude.

At the Khumbu Glacier base camp, the Himalayan Rescue Association's "Everest ER" provides walk-in services; patients with serious issues are evacuated via helicopter to Kathmandu as quickly as possible. At the Rongbok Glacier base camp, there's primary medical care in Tingrit, a four-hour drive in a four-wheel drive vehicle.

You either love it or hate it

For some, base camp is a form of purgatory-a temporary asylum where one must spend four or five weeks in exchange for the chance to climb Everest. For others, it's the ultimate summer camp, a place and community unlike any other on Earth. Either way, for those who want to ascend to the highest point on the planet, these are the two starting points.

Editor's Note: Writer Freddie Wilkinson is currently reporting from Nepal's Everest base camp and the surrounding region. Check back for more dispatches from the 2019 climbing season. The nonprofit National Geographic Society helped fund this story.

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MOUNT EVEREST BASE CAMP, NEPALHundreds of international mountaineers journey to Mount Everest each spring hoping to make a successful ascent of the world's highest peak. The vast majority of their time, however, isn't spent climbing up the flank of the mountain.