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The retailer's annual report revealed yesterday that executive bonuses will be scrapped for 2020/21, the pay of chief executive Steve Rowe will be frozen and there will be no salary increases across the rest of the business, because of last year's performance and the impact of the coronavirus pandemic.

"Executive directors will still continue to be measured against a scorecard of individual objectives aligned to the strategic priorities set out earlier in this report. However, no financial payment will be made in respect of their achievements," the company said in its remuneration report.

"The committee debated the appropriateness of this decision in a time when executives are working harder than ever and believes, in the context of wider macroeconomic factors and the experience of the business with a large number of colleagues placed on furlough, this is the right decision for M&S."

No bonus was paid out in 2019/20 because of the performance of the company.

Rowe's total pay was down about 20% compared with the previous year as a result of lower PSP (Performance Share Programme) outcomes and the reduction in share price during the year. The chief executive was paid £1.21m, including £143,279 paid out under the PSP scheme.

Meanwhile, Norman said the coronavirus pandemic has forced the retailer to operate "in ways we have never operated before".

"There is a saying sometimes attributed to Winston Churchill: 'Never waste a good crisis'."

He said M&S staff were now increasingly "multitasking in stores", decisions were being made more quickly and the retailer had an "action orientation, irrespective of hierarchy".

Norman said M&S is "determined to make our ways of working permanent and accelerate the aspects of our transformation necessary to thrive in a new consumer landscape".

"The manner in which our colleagues have been galvanised to act with pace and agility gives us confidence we can emerge stronger, as a faster, more streamlined business."

He added: "We are now, after two and a half years of transformation, on the verge of completing a much stronger management team, most notably with the arrival of Eoin Tonge as chief financial officer, Katie Bickerstaffe as chief strategy and transformation director, and Richard Price as managing director, clothing and home, together with many others."

Other newcomers include ecommerce director Stephen Langford, and director of home and furniture Heidi Woodhouse, who were both appointed in May, head of product development, technology and innovation for womenswear Monique Leeuwenburgh, who joined in September 2019.

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The retailer's annual report revealed yesterday that executive bonuses will be scrapped for 2020/21, the pay of chief executive Steve Rowe will be frozen and there will be no salary increases across the rest of the business, because of last year's performance and the impact of the coronavirus pandemic.

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Around 260 food and clothing UK stores have remained open throughout the coronavirus lockdown. The retailer has around 1,000 UK stores in its portfolio.

Safety measures will include staff managing the flow of people in and out of stores, hand sanitiser on entry, floor markings and signage reminding customers to shop safely.

Close-contact services, including bra fittings, suit fittings and children's footwear fittings, will not be offered. Fitting rooms will also remain closed, as will cafes to sit down and eat in. Selected stores will offer takeaway coffee with contactless collection.

Tills will have perspex screens installed and clear signage encouraging contactless payments.

All stores will sell items from M&S's Rainbow sale, which launched online two weeks ago. The retailer is donating 10% of the purchase price of all Rainbow sale items to NHS Charities Together.

Andrew Walmsley, M&S retail operations director, said: "Preparation is now well under way for the 15th - from the installation of perspex screens at tills, to putting in new signage. While shopping may feel different, there will still be the same great service and expert advice customers expect of M&S, as well as more digital solutions to supplement the in-store experience - such as our enhanced online bra-fit tool."

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Around 260 food and clothing UK stores have remained open throughout the coronavirus lockdown. The retailer has around 1,000 UK stores in its portfolio. Safety measures will include staff managing the flow of people in and out of stores, hand sanitiser on entry, floor markings and signage reminding customers to shop safely.

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Two weeks ago we announced the donation of thousands of bespoke T-shirts for the NHS Nightingale London team to wear as part of their uniform. Following this customers and colleagues asked for a charity tee to buy and show their support and solidarity. In response, M&S is selling a range of 'All in this Together' T-shirts.

All of the £3.55 profit plus VAT from the sale of each product will be paid to NHS Charities Together (registered charity 1186569) - supporting NHS staff and volunteers caring for Covid-19 patients. Find out more about the charity here.

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Two weeks ago we announced the donation of thousands of bespoke T-shirts for the NHS Nightingale London team to wear as part of their uniform. Following this customers and colleagues asked for a charity tee to buy and show their support and solidarity. In response, M&S is selling a range of 'All in this Together' T-shirts.

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Heavily discounted stock to shift SS2020

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Heavily discounted stock to shift SS2020

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Last week, Marks & Spencer launched huge half-price discounts online with its "Rainbow Sale" from which 10% of the purchase price will be donated to NHS Charities Together.

However, M&S is not alone - with stores having now been closed for eight weeks - high street and ecommerce players are rolling out deep discounts to shift stock.

The number of fashion discounts are up 43% year on year for the week to 17 May, data from retail sales aggregator and online market place Lovethesales.com shows.

French Connection is offering 50% off all spring fashion, Boohoo Group-owned Karen Millen has launched a 40% Sale across its ecommerce site and Topshop is advertising up to half-price savings. Asos, Moss Bros, TM Lewin and JD Sports are among the other retailers offering promotions.

Department stores are also trying to shift stock with discounts. Debenhams, which is currently undergoing a "light touch" administration, is offering a range of discounts across womenswear. including up to half price dresses, tops, swimwear and shoes, as well as 30% off lingerie and nightwear.

House of Fraser was offering 20% off all online purchases until 18 May, with selected discounts now increased to 30%. John Lewis is running discounts on its own-brand ranges, including 30% off own brands Kin and Modern Rarity, and matching third-party brand discounts with its "Never Knowingly Undersold" promise.

"Everyone has an enormous stock problem, as none of us predicted this before we bought our spring/summer stock in," the chief executive of one high street retailer told Drapers. "The stock [retailers] were able to get out of [with cancelled orders] was negligible in comparison to your intake. We've been able to sell through quite a lot online but it has been promotionally led.

"We've also recoded a lot of our stock to put summer ranges into the early part of autumn. However, next spring we could see bargains galore with the return of spring 20 seasonal stock that needs to be shifted."

The head of retail at one high street multiple said the crisis had highlighted the "risky approach" of buying too heavily that is prevalent across the industry: "The UK market will have to rely on heavy marking down, not just at the end of this season, but right the way through the autumn/winter season to clear its stock and to drive sales to help keep cashflow moving.

"It is the result perhaps for many of a strategy of buying too heavily for many years now. Many brands have taught their customers to buy during Sale times because of their need to clear their stocks each season. The virus and subsequent lockdown has just shown this up for the risky approach that it is."

The managing director of another high street brand said to "avoid promo fatigue" it was offering varied discounts throughout the crisis: "We ran a '50% off everything' deal last bank holiday and will be doing the same this coming bank holiday.

"However, in between that, we have been running at full price or offering short, sharp selected discounts of 25%."

The MD anticipates that spring Sales will continue for longer than usual with full price autumn delayed.

One ecommerce chief executive told Drapers he expects "in July to witness markdowns similar to Black Friday".

However, he noted that footfall was likely to "take a real beating" when non-essential stores reopen, and consumers were likely to "slow down on impulsive buying".

Another high street chief executive agreed: "Opening up is going to be challenging enough and opening up to a massive markdown is going to be even more so. That's before we knew what the social distancing measures would add into the mix.

"We'll end up in markdown as we open but normally we'd hope the shop is heaving with people fighting over the £20 knitwear. Social distancing doesn't even allow any of the browsing, so it will be fascinating to see how that pans out."

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Retailers resort to discounting to shift SS20 stock

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Last week, Marks & Spencer launched huge half-price discounts online with its "Rainbow Sale" from which 10% of the purchase price will be donated to NHS Charities Together. However, M&S is not alone - with stores having now been closed for eight weeks - high street and ecommerce players are rolling out deep discounts to shift stock.

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Hired new online clothing boss to help sales increase again

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Hired new online clothing boss to help sales increase again

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Marks & Spencer has hired the commercial vice-president of Asda's George brand, Stephen Langford, as its new ecommerce director.

He will join M&S in just over a week's time, to head its online clothing business as it pivots further to be a digital-first retailer.

Chief executive Steve Rowe said Langford will be "responsible for driving the transformation of our ecommerce business, helping to turbo-charge M&S.com and become an online winner in clothing and home".

Langford will report to M&S' new clothing and home managing director, Richard Price, who joins from Tesco in July.

Yesterday M&S announced a £1bn battle plan to counter a 37% drop in clothing and home operating profits for the year to 28 March amid the coronavirus crisis.
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Marks & Spencer has hired the commercial vice-president of Asda's George brand, Stephen Langford, as its new ecommerce director. He will join M&S in just over a week's time, to head its online clothing business as it pivots further to be a digital-first retailer.

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Joining on 6 July, Woodhouse will report to M&S' new clothing and home managing director, Richard Price, who joins from Tesco in July.

She will run the entire home and furniture operation, building on the preliminary steps that have been taken to "reduce range proliferation and offer customers trusted value".

Woodhouse joins from Dixons Carphone, where she has been managing director of Dixons travel and concessions since 2014. Prior to this, she worked in various directorial roles at Dixons Retail between 2009 and 2014.

In a statement, M&S said: "In clothing and home, the [coronavirus] crisis has given us the opportunity to accelerate the move to everyday style and trusted value and turbocharge dotcom, making three years of change in one. We will deepen our focus on hero categories with winning market shares, simplify our ranges and have fewer but more strategic supplier relationships.

"More work will be done directly from our sourcing offices so issues are dealt with closer to the supply base and more efficiently. Through all of these actions, we can completely reset our promotions and move to everyday trusted value with a 'first price, right price' mentality."

It added: "To make sure we're in the right shape to deliver these accelerated priorities, we've made some changes within the leadership team."

This includes the appointment of commercial vice-president of Asda's George brand, Stephen Langford, as its new ecommerce director, which was announced yesterday.

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Joining on 6 July, Woodhouse will report to M&S' new clothing and home managing director, Richard Price, who joins from Tesco in July. She will run the entire home and furniture operation, building on the preliminary steps that have been taken to "reduce range proliferation and offer customers trusted value".

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Hounsell exited M&S earlier this month after the retailer carried out another corporate restructuring.

Her role was reportedly made redundant due to Rowe's decision to devolve M&S's HR responsibilities to its individual business units.

Hounsell first joined the high street street stalwart last October from food chain McDonald's, where she was chief people officer, to help overhaul the company's internal work culture.

An M&S spokeswoman said: "Over the last 18 months we have been transforming our organisational design to a family of accountable businesses and earlier this month we announced changes to the leadership structure with the formation of a small executive board, led by Steve Rowe and consisting of the operating MDs together with Katie Bickerstaffe who has now started as chief strategy and Transformation Officer, and Eoin Tonge, CFO who is arriving in early June.

"With the renewal of the executive team now complete - the changes will allow us to operate at pace, with faster decision making and a lean corporate support centre - with accountability for HR embedded into the main business units. As a result, Harriet Hounsell has left the business and we thank her for her contribution."

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Hounsell exited M&S earlier this month after the retailer carried out another corporate restructuring. Her role was reportedly made redundant due to Rowe's decision to devolve M&S's HR responsibilities to its individual business units. Hounsell first joined the high street street stalwart last October from food chain McDonald's, where she was chief people officer, to help overhaul the company's internal work culture.

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Asos is offering 20% off everything with a minimum spend of £100. It is also running an up to 50% reduction on more than 1000 dresses. Sitewide there are savings of up to 70% on selected items.
Boohoo
Boohoo is advertising up to 50% off everything across its website, with an extra 10% off any purchase when using the app. The Boohoo Group has this week successfully completed a £200m equity fundraising to finance further acquisitions in the coming months.
Clarks
Customers can save up to 20% on adult sandals from Clarks.
Dune
Dune is discounting 30% across new season styles and running a clearance Sale of up to 50% off.
Debenhams
The department store, which is currently undergoing a 'light touch' administration, is offering a range of discounts across womenswear. They include up to half price dresses, tops, swimwear and shoes, as well as 30% off lingerie and nightwear.
Fat Face
The lifestyle retailer's online clearance Sale has deals up to 50% off.
French Connection
All spring fashion has up to 50% off at French Connection. This is across menswear and womenswear. The business failed to secure a buyer in January, despite an offer from ex-AllSaints and USC CEO Stephen Craig.in partnership with two private equity firms.
Gap
Gap is offering up to 50% off online until 20 May, with free delivery on orders over £25.
House of Fraser
The Sports Direct owned department store is offering 20% off all online purchases until 18 May.
John Lewis
The department store is offering a selection of discounts across apparel. Discounts on its own brand ranges include 30% off Kin and Modern Rarity, and with its price match promise, discounts across high street brands include 30% off Barbour, 25% discount on Hobbs and a 20% saving on French Connection items.
JD Sports
Peter Cowgill's sportswear retailer is offering up to 50% off on selected lines including brands such as Nike, Adidas and Under Armour. Cowgill is reportedly in a bidding war with Sports Direct's Mike Ashley to buy footwear chain Office.
Karen Millen
Boohoo Group-owned Karen Millen has launched a 40% Sale across its ecommerce site.
Marks and Spencer
The retailer has discounted selected clothing by at least 50% as part of its Rainbow Sale. M&S will donate 10% of the purchase price of all Rainbow Sale items to NHS Charities Together.
Missguided
The online retailer is offering up to 80% off more than 8000 styles.
Moss Bros
The menswear chain, currently in a sale dispute with Crew Clothing owner Brigadier Acquisition Company, is offering an extra 25% off everything across its website. This is in addition to deals including up to 80% off outlet, 3 for 2 on accessories and 2 for £50 on chinos. Moss Bros reopened its website this week after eight weeks of closure.
New Look
The high street retailer is offering a variety of discounts: £25 off £100 spend, £15 off £75 and £10 off £50. Customers can also gain an extra 25% discount by joining New Look's mailing list.
Next
Next's clearance Sale is advertising most items as half price or less. The retailer is soon to launch a new standalone beauty hall concept in five former Debenhams beauty departments.
Office
The footwear retailer, which is currently up for sale, has 20% off online purchases.
Quiz
Online retailer Quiz has an up to 60% Sale online.
Superdry
Julian Dunkerton's Superdry is running a mid-season Sale of up to 50% online. Dunkerton told Drapers the business has made further efficiencies in its business model as a result of coronavirus.
TM Lewin
Jermyn Street shirtmaker, TM Lewin has launched a Sale of up to 60% across its ecommerce site. This is alongside deals including four shirts for £79, and Sale suits from £99. TM Lewin was snapped up by a new private equity owner this week.
Topshop
The Arcadia brand is advertising up to 50% discounts on its website.

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Asos is offering 20% off everything with a minimum spend of £100. It is also running an up to 50% reduction on more than 1000 dresses. Sitewide there are savings of up to 70% on selected items. Boohoo Boohoo is advertising up to 50% off everything across its website, with an extra 10% off any purchase when using the app.

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Debenhams beauty halls: The chairman of Debenhams Mark Gifford has reportedly successfully blocked deals on two of Debenhams' stores which would have seen Next open beauty halls in those locations, according to The Mail on Sunday.

The locations are the Bullring store in Birmingham and Silverburn in Glasgow.

Next had a deal with shopping centre owner Hammerson which would see the retailer open five beauty halls in former Debenhams stores.

Marks & Spencer to hibernate stock: Marks & Spencer is reportedly buying warehouse space to "hibernate" its stock until next year, according to The Mail on Sunday.

Dividend ban: Larger companies which access the government-backed coronavirus support loans could face a ban on paying dividends or buying back shares, according to Sky News.

Ministers are reportedly finalising changes to the Coronavirus Large Business Interruption Loan Scheme, which would include banning the distribution of capital to investors.

Burberry to cut dividend: Burberry is set to cut its dividends in the fallout from Covid-19, according to The Times. The luxury fashion retailer is also in talks with shareholders over changes to its executive pay scheme.

Russ Mould, investment director at AJ Bell, told The Times that analysts were forecasting a full-year dividend payment of 33.8p, down from 42.5p last year. The final payout would be 22.5p, down from 31.5p. Last year's full dividend cost £171m.

Savile Row tailors ask for rent relief: Tailors on Savile Row have called for rent reductions, according to Property Week.

Suit-makers on the street are reportedly asking for flexibility over payment terms alongside rent cuts.

Luxury brands hike prices: Louis Vuitton raised its prices by 3% in March and 5% in April, according to Business of Fashion.

Chanel also increased the price of its handbags and other small leather goods by between 5% and 17%, according to wwd.com.
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The Monday Briefing: Debenhams, M&S and Burberry

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Debenhams beauty halls: The chairman of Debenhams Mark Gifford has reportedly successfully blocked deals on two of Debenhams' stores which would have seen Next open beauty halls in those locations, according to The Mail on Sunday. The locations are the Bullring store in Birmingham and Silverburn in Glasgow.

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Fashion at Marks & Spencer has been in decline for years and, despite numerous attempts to revitalise its offer, clothing and home sales have yet to recover. In its latest results, like-for-like sales for these categories fell 2.8% year on year to £1.19bn for the 13 weeks to 30 December 2017.

When former Halfords boss Jill Mcdonald was appointed managing director for clothing, home and beauty last October, she was praised for her business acumen, but concerns were raised that this non-fashion hire - alongside the departure of director of clothing and beauty Jo Jenkins - would leave a growing hole in fashion product expertise at a senior level.

Those concerns have been allayed. As as womenswear and kidswear director. Meanwhile, Wes Taylor, former managing director of Burton, exclusively revealed by Drapers, the former executive vice-president of product at Old Navy, Jill Stanton, will join the retailer will become menswear director. Laura Charles, current head of lingerie buying, has been promoted to the new position of lingerie director. The industry's call for M&S to hire "product people" has been answered, and each individual brings vast fashion expertise to the business.

Stanton, who also served 14 years at Nike Group, has previously been described by Gap group as a "proven textile industry veteran". The New York Times reported in 2015 that she transformed Old Navy's approach to design and shifted its collection from everyday basics to on-trend and in-season product. Stanton built a reputation for hiring top talent, investing in fabrics and introducing new product lines.

However, she has been out of the UK for a long time, so her first challenge will be to get back in touch with the British customer.

Looking to menswear, Taylor brings a wealth of experience and a strong reputation after nearly 20 years with Burton, initially as buying director and then MD.

The challenges for fashion at M&S are many, and the team will need to work hard to get its fashion back on trend in a way that is right for its audience, and get core customers to return. Please, no more cropped tops, orange hotpants or Alexa Chung collaborations.

Taking a leading role at M&S is not easy, and being thrust into the public eye - including all analysis and criticism that comes with it - has deterred other industry leaders from joining. If these new hires can embrace the huge challenges the retailer faces, they have a real opportunity to enhance the M&S fashion credentials.

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Editor's Comment: Why M&S is right to place product people at its fashion heart

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Fashion at Marks & Spencer has been in decline for years and, despite numerous attempts to revitalise its offer, clothing and home sales have yet to recover. In its latest results, like-for-like sales for these categories fell 2.8% year on year to £1.19bn for the 13 weeks to 30 December 2017.

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M&S announced at the end of last year that it had appointed Price, boss of Tesco's F&F clothing brand, as its new managing director of clothing and home.

He will replace Jill McDonald, who joined M&S in October 2017 from cycling retailer Halfords Group, where she was CEO.

Price was trading director at Marks and Spencer from 2005 to 2012, before joining BHS as managing director in 2012.

Since 2015 he has been chief executive of Tesco's F&F clothing brand.
Read more: Why Richard Price is a good fit for M&S
Steve Rowe, M&S chief executive, said: "Richard joins us at crucial time. I am confident that his leadership of a much-strengthened team and track record of delivering growth through great value, stylish product will accelerate the transformation of our clothing and home business and build on the improvements in product, value and availability over the past year."

Rowe will hand over his clothing and home accountabilities to Price upon his arrival on 6 July.

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M&S announced at the end of last year that it had appointed Price, boss of Tesco's F&F clothing brand, as its new managing director of clothing and home. He will replace Jill McDonald, who joined M&S in October 2017 from cycling retailer Halfords Group, where she was CEO.

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The coronavirus Job Retention Scheme was introduced last month by chancellor Rishi Sunak. It allows firms to furlough employees with the government paying cash grants of 80% of their wages up to a maximum of £2,500.

It was originally due to finish at the end of May, however, the chancellor has now extended this by a month. This may be further extended if necessary.

Sunak said: "We've taken unprecedented action to support jobs and businesses through this period of uncertainty, including the UK-wide Job Retention Scheme. With the extension of the coronavirus lockdown measures yesterday, it is the right decision to extend the furlough scheme for a month to the end of June to provide clarity.

It is vital for people's livelihoods that the UK economy gets up and running again when it is safe to do so, and I will continue to review the scheme so it is supporting our recovery."

It comes after the government this week extended the nationwide lockdown by a further three weeks.

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Coronavirus: Government extends furlough scheme

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The coronavirus Job Retention Scheme was introduced last month by chancellor Rishi Sunak. It allows firms to furlough employees with the government paying cash grants of 80% of their wages up to a maximum of £2,500. It was originally due to finish at the end of May, however, the chancellor has now extended this by a month.

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Prime minister Boris Johnson announced last night that shops could start to reopen from 1 June, but only if government is satisfied that Covid-19 has been subdued to the necessary level.

Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the BRC, said: "We share the view of the prime minister that safety is what counts when determining when shops can reopen. Already retailers around the country are working on plans for reopening safely and with all necessary social-distancing measures in place.

"The BRC and Usdaw have supported this process with our own social-distancing guidance, learning from the experiences of thousands of supermarkets and other essential retailers. It is vital that the reopening of stores is based on who can do so safely, as opposed to trying to draw lines in terms of different sizes or types of shop."

However, she added: "Further clarity is needed in coming days and we look forward to more details from the government. We need a plan for shopping as well as shops - this means a plan that allows safe navigation both to and through our retail centres - and we look forward to continuing to work closely with the government to support this process."

Separately, following a call with the prime minister, industry property body Revo stressed the need for "real urgency" in developing his new road map.

Chief executive Vivienne King said: "We recognise the reasons for the government's caution in easing lockdown restrictions. Deferring the reopening of shops until 1 June at the earliest, provides time for retailers, property owners and local authorities to co-ordinate how retail places can be reopened safely.

"Revo has published a detailed framework for reopening retail to support members' preparations, and we are now keen to see the government's own guidelines at the earliest date. We will continue to engage with and inform the government's roadmap for reopening by sharing our members' experiences.

"Retailers deemed non-essential have endured two months with almost no turnover from trading, which in turn has placed huge financial pressure on property owners and their lenders. With June quarter rent day fast approaching, there is a real urgency for all constituents to work together to determine how shops can reopen and trade safely without prejudicing public health."

Johnson is due to present a 50-page document outlining the easing of lockdown to parliament today.

We're working to keep delivering to your doorstep. If your magazine is delivered to your office and you'd like to change this, please email help@subscribe.drapersonline.com or call 01604 828 705.

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Industry seeks clarity on stores reopening

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Prime minister Boris Johnson announced last night that shops could start to reopen from 1 June, but only if government is satisfied that Covid-19 has been subdued to the necessary level. Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the BRC, said: "We share the view of the prime minister that safety is what counts when determining when shops can reopen.

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Steven Cook, managing director fashion, home and beauty, Debenhams

Volatility seems to be the new normal

It's no secret that customers are looking for unique experiences, and retailers need to work harder than ever before to entice shoppers into stores. For retailers, volatility seems to be the new normal.

However, talk of the death of the high street is premature. In 2019, consumers spent increasing amounts on well-being and experiences. Their focus on ethical and sustainable retailing is rising.

These trends look set to continue in 2020 and, fortunately, department stores are well placed to cater for them. The retailers that thrive this year will be those that truly understand and anticipate how their customers' needs are evolving.

At Debenhams, having been through what was undeniably a painful restructuring last year, we are now looking to the future with a mixture of realism and confidence. We are managing costs tightly while looking at all our processes to ensure we are choosing the sustainable option.

Since becoming a member of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) in 2019, we have sourced the equivalent of nearly 2 million units of BCI cotton product across all our brands.

In 2020, we'll continue to play to our strengths: making designer fashion accessible, offering a fantastic range of brands and providing great value, which has been at the heart of who we are for the last 200 years.

Holli Rogers, CEO, Browns and chief brand officer, Farfetch

I'm looking forward to continuing to make changes in sustainability

The most important thing for Browns as a business will be the progression of our "Conscious" [sustainable] categories and our endeavours around sustainability. We have seen such growth and change in relation to shopping habits - rental, resale and more - as well as how we think and feel, and what we do around this topic. I'm looking forward to continuing to make changes in this area, alongside the fashion industry as a whole.

As a retailer, we will continue to look at how the physical store acts as a "venue" as well as a simple shopping space, to create a unique 360-degree environment that allows customers to engage with both product and experience.

Additionally, 2020 and the new decade marks a significant milestone for us. Browns turns 50 this year, and we will open our new flagship on Brook Street in London.

As we celebrate and reflect on the last 50 years, we will also be looking at the next 50. We'll be thinking about what retail will look like in the future, building on experiential and community-led initiatives, and how we continue to bridge the offline and online worlds.

Nigel Oddy, CEO, New Look

Where there are challenges, there are also opportunities

Last year was exceptionally busy for both the retail sector and New Look, and I expect 2020 will be no different. The market will remain challenging and customers' expectations will understandably continue to rise.

A lot has been made of the difficulties the sector has faced over recent times, and these shouldn't be underestimated. But where there are challenges, there are also opportunities.

At New Look, we enter 2020 with a degree of optimism.

We remain committed to the high street. The convenient locations of our stores are a key differentiator and we will continue to invest prudently to further enhance our multichannel capabilities. We are delivering record levels of click-and-collect orders and this will remain a focus as customers increasingly expect to shop seamlessly across channels.

We have a broad customer base, and our customers tell us they want stylish product with wide appeal. This means buying into successful trends quickly.

Looking to 2020, we will continue to invest in our people - bringing in more new talent while continuing to get the best out of our great team of colleagues. Here's to an exciting year ahead.

Paul Marchant, CEO, Primark

We need to give customers more reasons to come into our stores

The in-store experience will become increasingly important for high street retailers in 2020. We need to give customers more reasons to come into our stores. We will continue to invest, test and trial new concepts, and introduce new experiential opportunities.

Our Birmingham store, which opened last year, has changed the perception of the Primark shopping experience. It is a progressive and innovative retail environment, showcasing an amazing variety of food and beverage, beauty, licensed shop-in-shops and personalisation services, in addition to our full and ever-evolving product range.

We continue to firmly believe in the high street and will grow our footprint this year. We expect to open 19 new stores across nine countries together with several relocations and extensions in the current financial year. We are excited to continue our expansion in central eastern Europe, where we will open our first store in Poland in the spring, followed by our first store in the Czech Republic later in the year.

A key area of focus for 2020 will be the ongoing implementation of our Primark Cares strategy, which will focus on being a responsible retailer, and delivering sustainable and recycled products to our customers. We recently announced an expansion of our cotton programme to train 160,000 farmers in more sustainable farming methods, which will mean more sustainable cotton products for our customers next year.

Andy Long, CEO, Pentland Brands

Those that rely on 'good enough' will continue to suffer

There will be continued global uncertainty in 2020 that impacts trade and consumer confidence, but there will also be lots of growth opportunities for brands and businesses that focus on getting their market, channel and consumer propositions right. Those that rely on "good enough" will continue to suffer.

Sustainability will continue to become more important as consumers shift their purchasing behaviours towards retailers with clear sustainability credentials.

Consumers want to buy where, when and how they want. Social media continues to be a core pre-shopping destination to drive consumers into both physical and ecommerce retail channels. Embracing this, alongside creating differentiated brand offers for our retailers with great bricks-and-mortar locations, will be essential.

As consumers look for brands that resonate with who they are, our focus will be on our brands being there in more moments that matter. For example, at the Tokyo Olympics this year, athletes wearing Speedo will once again take centre stage in the swimming pool. The brand will use this platform to connect with and inspire more people around the world to love and enjoy being in the water.

Peter Ruis, managing director of international, Anthropologie

There will be some significant 'like-for-like' opportunity

Like the last three years, 2020 is almost impossible to predict. Much of the political and economic uncertainty is unlikely to be completely resolved. The news is likely to be full of deadlines, extensions, referenda and trade deals.

However, the industry will be comparing against a very volatile 2019, so there will be some significant "like-for-like" opportunity. In addition, the sad demise of some key brands, and the closing of physical doors within existing brands, will open up potential market share gain.

I do not see the coming years as being about any one transformative new technology trend, or dramatic change in consumer sentiment and habit. It is never "one size fits all". As always, we are all beholden to drive innovation across our proposition, using the best of what is around and what we are creating.

As fashion retailers, we must deliver the optimism and escapism needed to drive the consumer forward. Fashion is fun, and we need to create that sense across all our channels.

We'll be expanding across the UK and internationally in 2020 and, therefore, will have the chance to introduce our brand to many new customers. We will be launching some ground-breaking new clothing collaborations.

Max Bittner, CEO, Vestiaire Collective

The need for brands to innovate will dominate the landscape

The retail industry is experiencing a time of significant change. The dynamics driving this shift will become stronger in 2020, as the importance of sustainability increases for the customer. The need for brands to innovate will dominate the landscape. There will be disruption as younger, agile brands continue to challenge the way established brands operate. All brands will need to learn to self-disrupt to stay ahead of the game.

Customer experience continues to be a key concern within the growing digital landscape. Millennials and Generation Z are driving the growth of the second-hand market and ecommerce generally. Both are generations that have grown up with technology, so brands will continue to explore ways to innovate in this sphere. Artificial intelligence and blockchain will increase in influence as more brands use AI to develop enhanced customer experiences, and the need for traceability in luxury products increases.

Customers will continue to question and change their approach to consumption. They are becoming more conscious of both sustainability and the impact of consumerism, which will ultimately force brands to rethink their current model.

Ali Hall and Julie Lavington, co-founders and joint CEOs, Sosandar

The sector will continue to see challenges that may well prompt further discounting

Consumers are becoming increasingly discerning and the businesses that are seeing success are the ones that have customers' needs at the centre of everything they do. In 2020, it will be more important than ever for fashion retailers to invest in great customer service and to ensure they are engaging properly with their customers.

Given increasing concerns around sustainability, we also believe there will be an increase in demand for high-quality, well-made clothes that last but are good value for money, while also being fashion forward.

Shopping via social media has become the norm for women of all generations and this shows no sign of slowing down. Customers expect to be inspired by the great styling of different pieces, as well as seeing how they can be worn for different occasions. Once inspired, they expect to have the ability to quickly and easily purchase any of the items shown.

We are under no illusions: because of the wider macro environment, the sector will continue to see challenges that may well prompt further discounting across the high street. At Sosandar, we focus on full-price product that customers are prepared to pay for by offering newness and a high-quality product range that inspires them. Despite the wider environment, we were delighted to report a record year of trading and we are predicting very strong growth for Sosandar this year.

Steve Cochrane, managing director, Psyche

Brace for at least another 12 months of Brexit doldrums

I'm expecting 2020 to be significantly better than the past two years, but not because of an upswing in the economy. Brands and retailers need to brace themselves for at least another 12 months of Brexit doldrums.

At Psyche specifically, I have spent a lot of time reviewing our costs and systems, and have identified many areas where I can make significant improvements and savings this year.

For example, I have already cut stock levels by 20% in 2019, as we were giving customers too much choice and had a lot of similar products. This focus on product will continue in 2020.

I have also reassessed job roles and staff responsibilities, and Psyche is committed to carrying out much more staff training. The results should come to fruition this year and help to develop our customer service. Another way we will navigate trading conditions is through our new, custom-built accounting software. This will allow us to risk-assess various business scenarios and outcomes.

More generally, ecommerce will continue to grow, and I expect more businesses will fail as they struggle to adapt to the changing retail environment. It won't be long before 50% of all clothing and footwear spend is online, and retailers need to be prepared. I also expect to see less discounting, as retailers racing to the bottom will have already got there!

However, there's a lot of great product for spring 20 and if that continues into autumn, and retailers manage to hold their nerve, then 2020 should be a much more positive year.

Peter Youell, managing director, Skechers

The high street will be as difficult and challenging as ever

There is no doubt that 2020 will bring about a whole new load of challenges and adjustments for the footwear market.

The UK has chosen its new government and it remains to be seen whether it can negotiate [and gain parliamentary approval for] a Brexit deal or not. The outcome will certainly have a material impact on our country and industry - starting immediately this year.

As ever, the new year will reveal which retailers had a good Christmas trading period and who didn't. This will prove especially interesting. We hope everyone does well over the period: if they do, it might be a sign of market stability, and if trading isn't so good, then we'll probably see more casualties, which nobody wants.

All in all, I imagine the high street will be as difficult and challenging as ever this year. Government and landlords need to ease the pressure of rents and business rates, in order to encourage retailers to continue to invest in bricks-and-mortar stores. If these measures don't balance more favourably, then I fear the high street will suffer even more than it already is.

At Skechers, I expect our ecommerce business will continue to grow. We will watch closely to see how this impacts consumer shopping habits, as this will affect our forward planning. We're also launching our biggest-ever marketing campaign in 2020, which aims to drive brand awareness, demand and sales.

That said, we're on an exponential growth curve, so we'll knuckle down and continue to do what Skechers does best - produce great product that is stylish and comfortable, at an affordable price.

Michael Kliger, CEO and president, Mytheresa

We will continue to work on our vision to become the best luxury experience platform

It promises to be a very exciting year at Mytheresa. We will launch menswear on the site this month. This new section will be home to 120 brands and have its own distinct look and feel. It will have a clear focus on the product edit, similar to our approach in womenswear.

Our customers are at the core of everything we do, and we will continue to work on our vision to become the best luxury experience platform for our customers. Mytheresa is well established in Europe, and we will continue to grow in these markets while also focusing on our international expansion in the US and China. We will continue to work on being the best partner for all our women's, men's and kids' brands and have a host of exciting campaigns, exclusive capsule collections and pre-launches and global events lined up.

Juls Dawson, owner, Just a Group

There is opportunity in the form of sustainable and vegan brands

It was a challenging year in 2019, as reduced consumer confidence, coupled with economic uncertainty, took its toll on the high street and our sales lines. However, we are feeling positive for this year. There is opportunity in the form of sustainable and vegan brands, our focus on the premium sector through our new showroom, Occam - home to brands including include Nigel Cabourn, Good News and RAX by Russell Athletic - and some great new brands that we will be adding soon.

Pricing continues to be a challenge and getting the right mix of full-price and off-price product is key for this year, along with creating new categories for our brands to take advantage of gaps in the market.

It's not getting any easier out there, but if we can continue to understand the end consumer and sustain strong relationships with brands and retailers alike, then we can continue to grow.

Christoph Barchewitz and Patrick Schmidt, co-CEOs, Global Fashion Group

The trend will lie with the consumers

global fashion group co ceos Patrick Schmidt and Christoph Barchewitz

It's an interesting time for the fashion industry. Many of the trends we saw in 2019 will continue in 2020: the biggest being sustainability and more considered consumption.

In 2019, sustainability was a big trend among retailers. We saw more and more retailers introducing sustainable lines - including our Australian etailer, The Iconic - and making bigger sustainability commitments.

In 2020, the trend will lie with the consumers. They will be more focused on shopping according to their personal sustainability values: where have my clothes been made? Who made them? What is the composition? What is the carbon footprint? It won't be enough for a brand to just have a sustainable line. To see how this will develop, and at what pace, will be interesting.

Read The Drapers Interview with Christoph Barchewitz and Patrick Schmidt, co-CEOs, Global Fashion Grouphere

Sandeep Verma, managing director - Europe, Allbirds

In 2020, I hope we'll see other brands committing to lowering their carbon footprin

Climate change is the problem of our generation, and the fashion industry is finally waking up to the catastrophic impact it's having on our planet. At Allbirds, we believe that businesses should be part of the solution. A big moment for us last year was when we became 100% carbon neutral through the Allbirds Carbon Fund, which invests in emissions-reduction projects.

In 2020, I hope we'll see other brands committing to reducing their carbon footprint, too - first by understanding how to measure their emissions, then offsetting them, and finally finding ways to reduce them. The industry will realise that sustainability is not only good for business, but a requirement.

We've reached a tipping point where brands can no longer afford to have wholesalers at the heart of their business. Being fully direct to consumer allows us to have a deeper direct relationship with our customers. We have access to invaluable insights from every touchpoint in the customer journey, whether they're browsing our website or visiting our physical stores.

The focus should be on putting consumers at the heart, rather than investing in expensive technology or trying to guess the next mini trend. For us, this is all about being purpose led, designing to solve problems with great products, and doing it all with an incredible amount of care.

Daniel Rubin, founder and executive chairman, Dune

If we get a final Brexit decision, at least one of the uncertainties will have gone

It is hard to believe that 2020 will be more challenging than 2019, given all the difficulties footwear retailers faced last year. If we get a final Brexit decision, at least one of the uncertainties adversely affecting consumer confidence will have gone.

The casualisation of footwear fashion will continue, although I feel there will be a resurgence in a dressier aesthetic. I mean, how many pairs of white trainers can a person have in their wardrobe? I also predict a long hot summer with booming sandal sales - or perhaps that's just wishful thinking!

The sustainability agenda will become even more prominent, especially among millennials. The fashion industry will come under more pressure to clean up its supply chain while facing increasing costs - a difficult conundrum to solve.

Helen Brocklebank, CEO, Walpole

This year will be all about a response to climate emergency

For luxury fashion brands and retailers, this year will be all about a response to climate emergency. For start-ups and fledgling brands, sustainability is hard-wired into their business models. We'll see the big, established brands sharing what they've learned on plastics, packaging, waste, fabrics, responsible sourcing and so on with the whole eco-system as everyone works together towards a more sustainable future.

Consumers will drive brands towards much greater transparency, and there will be zero-tolerance of "greenwashing". The most important luxury trend for the coming year is a clean conscience.

Simon Forster, managing director, Selfridges

Customers expect retailers to lead the way on addressing sustainability

This year marks the start of a vital new decade in the race to secure a sustainable future. As a business with sustainability at its heart, Selfridges will be gearing up towards a major new campaign that will set the direction for the next 10 years of our journey. There are increasingly clear signals coming from customers that they expect to see retailers - and in particular the luxury sector - leading the way on addressing this issue.

In our most recent customer research, two-thirds of those we asked said they expect luxury retailers to be more sustainable and responsible than non-luxury retailers. The vast majority of our customers (85%) tell us that they're more concerned about sustainability and climate change than they were a year ago.

Tom Beahon, co-founder, Castore

Strong brands will find a way to win

I am a born optimist and see huge opportunity in 2020 despite the obvious uncertainties. As in any business environment, strong brands will find a way to win, and weaker brands will find excuses for why they failed.

The continued digitisation of retail will be a key trend this year - brands with a great product offering, strong DNA and agile operating models will capitalise on ever-evolving consumer expectations. This is also making international growth more achievable than ever before. Castore is experiencing rapid growth in countries across Asia, and having a truly global outlook will be crucial for those who want to grow.

Creating exceptional product and strong brand desire will never go out of fashion, and those able to do this will be successful next year. Those who approach 2020 with ambition and a risk-taking mindset will capitalise on the opportunities that will undoubtedly present themselves.

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The fashion industry's forecast for the year ahead

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Steven Cook, managing director fashion, home and beauty, Debenhams Volatility seems to be the new normal It's no secret that customers are looking for unique experiences, and retailers need to work harder than ever before to entice shoppers into stores. For retailers, volatility seems to be the new normal.

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Silhouettes are growing in volume, hemlines are creeping floorwards and cosy cardigans are making a comeback. From Laura Ashley dresses selling for hundreds of pounds on Ebay, to the March sisters from Greta Gerwig's adaptation of Little Women becoming unexpected fashion influencers - a classically feminine mood has been dominating womenswear in recent seasons.

"Old-fashioned" or vintage-influenced pieces are creeping back into wardrobes, and a modernised take on "prim and proper" dressing has emerged as a dominant trend in high street and designer collections alike.

Brands such as Molly Goddard and Shrimps exemplify the style, while names ranging from Gucci to Ganni, Reformation and the Vampire's Wife are all referencing this more modest aesthetic.

Beyond the catwalks, the trend has become fashion catnip for shoppers, as brands and retailers offer new, modern twists on floaty dresses, long-line skirts, full-sleeved blouses and retro cosy knits.

As the autumn 20 international fashion weeks draw to a close, the trend looks set to retain its dominance well into next season. The catwalks have been overflowing a new kind of femininity: demure collars at Ganni in Copenhagen, Molly Goddard's oversized tulle skirt and jumper combos in London and Fendi 's 1940s power dressing in Milan.

Anna Ross, fashion editor at trend forecaster WGSN, believes it is a reaction to today's turbulent sociopolitical landscape: "This sort of dressing represents finding moments of joy in a world that has increasingly dark twists and turns." She adds that it represents a "new kind of power dressing" that moves away from restrictive styles of trends past: dramatic voluminous skirts as opposed skin-tight pencil styles.

"We initially pinpointed this trend as 'new femininity' - a sociopolitically fuelled aesthetic, driven in many parts by movements such as #MeToo and #TimesUp.

"Big, playful silhouettes, layers of tulle and floor-sweeping hemlines almost take on a subverted stance on what it means to be 'female' today. They are typically 'feminine' aesthetics and so can be read as a reclamation of sorts in times of suppression - these are looks that take up room and make a statement."

Pierpaolo Piccioli's dizzying creations for Valentino and Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen's whimsical, doll-like dresses are two luxury highlights Ross says exemplify the trend.

Time for comfort

Beyond the aesthetic, there are other factors making the trend popular with shoppers: comfort and convenience.

Styles are geared towards feminine silhouettes and very wearable fits

Bernice Arriagada, Sister Jane

Bernice Arriagada, designer of London-based womenswear brand Sister Jane, explains that its styles appeal to shoppers with their fusion of femininity and practicality: "These are all elements of an ultra-feminine aesthetic and celebrate the modern woman.

"Oversized shapes have been key, and with the reintroduction of fitted waists, contrasting with pretty puffed sleeves and ruffle hems, styles are geared towards feminine silhouettes and very wearable fits."

Much like Zara 's famous polka-dot midi-dress, which took Britain by storm last summer: fluid, voluminous, floral styles are flattering for shoppers across the board, at any age or size. They also offer a one-stop solution to sophisticated dressing - and when paired with a cosy cardigan, are practical to boot.

Clever buys

For retailers, the new feminity is a smart buying choice for the new season: versatile products cater for a wide variety of shoppers.

Bethany Rowntree, founder of ecommerce site Studio B, has seen this first-hand and gives the example of the Jasmine dress from Danish brand Stine Goya : "They're super-easy to wear but have a statement look. They're flattering and can be layered. Big voluminous dresses can be worn over jeans, or worn with bare legs and sandals in summer.

"They are also perfect for bumps - I had three pregnant women buy the dress on the same day last week."

Womenswear brand Rixo also focuses on versatile dresses.

Co-founder Henrietta Rix observes: "They're a great wardrobe investment - suited to today's lifestyle where it's important to be able to wear something that sees you through the day and is both demure enough for the office, but can also be dressed up for drinks.

"Today's customer is so conscious when they are shopping, they need items that are completely versatile that they can re-wear constantly, no matter the season or occasion - something that these pieces offer."

There is a comfort in the nostalgia of these styles

Malika Zagzoule, Urban Outfitters

On the high street, Urban Outfitters is another retailer banking on the trend. Alongside its own designs, Urban Outfitters has collaborated with Laura Ashley on a collection of dresses, shirts, tops and shorts that features the 1990s favourite's vintage prints and voluminous styles. It launched in June 2019 and has had two collections to date. The retailer reports that new styles have sold out fast.

"Both the silhouettes and the Laura Ashley prints are absolutely iconic - you can single them out among a rail of vintage instantly," says Urban Outfitters womenswear buying director Malika Zagzoule. "The collection keeps the best of those distinctive elements: the high necklines, the ruffle edging, empire line and, of course, the beautiful prints. It's a real delve into the Laura Ashley archives."

She adds: "There is a comfort in the nostalgia of these styles. They're overtly feminine, but not because they're revealing or typically sexy - it's women dressing for themselves and expressing their individuality in a way that feels fresh and at the same time, familiar."

Younger milennial or Generation Z shoppers, such as those Urban Outfitters targets, are taking the traditionally feminine themes of retro dresses and reworking them for a more modern approach too, says Zagzoule - opting for dresses that clash broderie anglaise with neon bright colours, and pairing chunky boots and trainers with cosy cardigans.

The new femininity's broad appeal and versatility are a winning combination, encompassing the comfort of the classics, sustainable motivations and flattering, practical styles. This trend meets the changing demands of the modern womenswear shopper, and is appealing for brands, retailers and consumers alike.

Four brands embod ying the new femininity
Justine Tabak
Designer Justine Tabak's eclectic, quirky dresses take inspiration from the eccentricities of the British Isles - "from Lancashire Mill Girls to London's Pearly Queens and Kings" . Launched in 2016, the brand the manufactures in the UK using primarily British-made materials. Wholesale prices range from £70 for a top to £140 for a maxi-dress justine@justinetabak.co.uk
Sofie Sol Studio
Danish designer Sofie Sol describes her brand's goal as to create dresses that are so comfortable they feel like "ornamented PJs". The signature balloon-shaped, ruffled styles epitomise the comfortable, easy-to-wear shapes.
Wholesale prices range from DKK Cras Copenhagen 699 (£78) for a tote bag to DKK2,499 (£280) for a satin dress. hello@sofiesolstudio.com Wholesale prices range from €38 (£31) to €67 (£56) for dresses +45 21127405 Batsheva
Drapers spotted new sustainable womenswear brand Cras at the autumn 20 shows in Copenhagen, as it made its debut at CIFF.With its oversized styles, ruffles and prints, it is completely on trend. Bold prints are paired with long hemlines and sleeves for an aesthetic that is flattering and feminine.
Wholesale prices from £79.20 for a top to £246.4 for a cotton midi-dress. info@batsheva.com
New York brand Batsheva was founded by former New York lawyer Batsheva Hay in 2016. Hay says that prairie, hippy and Victoriana are all influences on her aesthetic, and the resulting designs have gained traction thanks to the brand's savvy social media strategy - which has resulted in 78,000 followers on Instagram. The brand has six UK stockists, including Browns and Harvey Nichols.

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The magic of the new old-fashioned femininity

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Silhouettes are growing in volume, hemlines are creeping floorwards and cosy cardigans are making a comeback. From Laura Ashley dresses selling for hundreds of pounds on Ebay, to the March sisters from Greta Gerwig's adaptation of Little Women becoming unexpected fashion influencers - a classically feminine mood has been dominating womenswear in recent seasons.

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Jeans are a wardrobe's hardest-working pieces, and a key category for retailers. The Drapers' Covid-19 coronavirus survey found that as customers stay at home, jeans and denim were now among a retailer's best-performing products.

The skinny jean has reigned supreme for several seasons, and remains a crucial buy, but the 1990s influence is evident in the popularity of the high-waisted, tapered "mom" silhouette, as customers experiment with new relaxed and fashion-forward shapes.

Sustainability is also at the forefront of shoppers' and retailers' minds, with major brands focusing on more eco-conscious ways of producing their denim offer - from sustainably sourcing cotton to water-saving washing methods. And denim is showing its versatility with the rising popularity in other parts of the nation's wardrobes, including dresses, jackets and even accessories.

Drapers speaks to top high street retailers on the denim that does it all.

Jamie Fraser, womenswear merchandising lead, Marks & Spencer
What is influencing your customers' denim purchases?
Marks & Spencer denim is a multimillion-pound operation that serves one in 10 denim shoppers in the UK and growing. It is central to M&S 's transformation.

Denim is a staple in all of our wardrobes, and we know if we get the product right it hits a sweet spot - as perfectly fitting jeans are worn and loved by people of all ages.

Several factors influence customers purchasing decisions but fit, style and value are the three key focuses for us.

On style, I'm really proud that over the past year we've introduced some great new modern fits - such as the Harper - a cigarette-cut jean, as well as boyfriend, mom and culottes for summer.

Sustainability is also increasingly a customer consideration, so it's great that the new jeans we launched this spring use less water in the washing process than conventional jeans.
What is your bestselling denim item?
Our bestselling denim product is our £15 jegging, which has been a strong performer for a number of years. The popular core colours are black and indigo mix.

In terms of traditional jeans, last year we launched our £19.50 Ivy skinny jean which is now our bestseller: more than 300,000 were purchased over the Christmas period alone (October to December).
How has denim been performing?
Denim has been a big focus for us over the last year, and customer response to the changes in denim has been strong. 300,000 new customers shopped the M&S's womenswear denim offer over the Christmas period, and the number of transactions that included two or more pairs of jeans rose from 15% to 19%.

In February, we launched our denim campaign to spotlight the progress and strength of our denim business. Although we sell 15 jeans a minute we're ranked just fourth out of the top 21 retailers when consumers are asked to name a brand for denim. In terms of emerging styles we launched a wide leg/crop cut in spring 20 which has been popular.
What do you think will be popular for spring 20?
As part of our spring denim campaign we've launched our Magic Jeans in womenswear - high-waisted skinnies that feature tummy-flattering technology, bi-stretch denim for superior comfort and a gap-proof waist band. For us, that will be a key jean product this season.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
More relaxed fits, authentic denim washes and kick flares will be key, as will coated jeans and faux leather.

Steven Andrews, head of womenswear design, Asos
What is influencing your customers' denim purchases?
Fit always comes first, and with our Asos Design jeans, we have recently based our spring 20 campaign around eight fits that will suit every customer.

The denim team started by pulling out their favourite vintage jeans - the go-to styles that we all have in our wardrobe, and looked at the fit, fabric, wash and comfort that made them loved.

We looked at making sure the fit and washes were the exact must-haves to suit our customer, and offered these in all our ranges and fits.
What is your bestselling denim item?
Mom jeans continue to be our bestselling shape, and we have brand new washes dropping for spring 20. Including authentic red caste mid blues, to super bleached and neutrals as well as colour-pop brights.
Is there a particular style that you know will perform well, and has this changed in recent seasons?
We've seen a huge rise in sales of our "effortless kick flare" and "slim straight" shapes, as we see a continuation of the trend away from super-skinnies.
How has denim been performing?
Denim is performing phenomenally well backed with our recent Asos design campaign, which led to a 65% increase in sales.

The campaign focused on the eight jean fits, and styling was clean and sleek. Key styles are the "slim mom," "hourglass," "effortless kick flare" and "slim straight"

Denim dresses, tops, oversize shirts and co-ords are also selling.
What do you think will be popular for spring 20?
Sustainability is at the forefront of our customer's mind, and at Asos we continue to use recycled materials, BCI [Better Cotton Initiative] cotton and new washing innovation that supports reduction in waste and lessens our carbon footprint.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
We are looking at authentics in different castes/tints as colour families such as browns and greys grow in importance, supporting our key blocks to offer our customers a wider variance of wash levels on their favourite shapes.

Lucy Willans, senior jeans buyer, Topshop
What is influencing your customers' denim purchases?
We've seen a resurgence of noughties and 1990s denim across social media - primarily Instagram - and we have extended our offering into eight new styles across multiple washes for the season.
What is your bestselling denim item?
Jamie [high-waisted, skinny fit jean] is Topshop's bestselling jean, closely followed by Joni [super-high rise, spray-on skinny fit jean]We're pleased to be offering Joni in dress and jumpsuit options in addition to the popular jean style.
Is there a particular style of jean that you know will perform well, and has this changed in recent seasons?
We are noticing an increase in demand for new leg shapes. Despite skinny jeans remaining a popular choice for our customers, the demand for looser shapes such as Straight, Dad, Relaxed Flare and Oversized Mom are gaining momentum.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
Autumn 20 at Topshop will see an extended range of looser leg shapes in addition to updates on our skinnier styles. Expect coated denim and vinyl, along with a bright colours and embellishment.

Tom Thurlow, senior buyer - denim, River Island
What is influencing your customers' denim purchases?
Our customers have become more emotive about their denim purchases. They're looking for something more interesting, so for us it's important that we land campaigns that really connect and highlight the quality and breadth of our denim with customers, inspiring them to shopwith us.
What is your bestselling denim item?
Black jeans. They're an essential for every guy's wardrobe. We do really well with our classic skinny style, Sid. Skinnies are now a staple and a core fit in our denim range. All ages and types of guys wear them. It's funny to think people were once nervous of a skinny jean with stretch.
How has denim been performing?
Denim sales have remained steady for us as a business. We have pretty loyal denim consumers, so we're always looking to continue to make improvements to the range to ensure there's still that feel of newness for our core denim shopper, as well as for new customers who perhaps want to branch out from their usual denim brands.
What do you think will be popular for spring 20?
It sounds obvious, but lighter washes. In the spring months, our typical denim guy starts to look for jean styles away from classic black and dark indigo washes that naturally fit a winter palette. He wants fresh denim shades to kick-start the new season.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
We'll see a switch back to classic black denim across fits, and more interest in shades of grey.

Grey will be stronger than recent years and become a staple in terms of washes.

I also think our consumers are looking for more of a hybrid denim which can be worn both casually or smart. We've had great feedback on our Dylan straight-leg fit, which is a real classic, and straight-fit denim that can be dressed casually with trainers or paired with boots for a smarter take.

Georgina Basher, junior buyer on denim, Tu at Sainsbury's
What is influencing your customers' denim purchases?
Price and quality are important to our customers, as well as ensuring we have a wide variety of fits and authentic washes available for purchase.
What is your bestselling denim item?
Our black high-waisted jeans, which cost £16.
Is there a style of jean that you know will perform well, and has this changed in recent seasons?
We're very much starting to see the trend in denim skew towards alternative fits and fashion washes, which is really refreshing, as the skinny jean has prevailed as the frontrunner on shape for the past few seasons.

While the skinny is still our bestselling fit, we are starting to see our customers opting for slim fits, mom jeans, vintage straight and wider-leg silhouettes.
How has denim been performing?
Where we've seen customers favouring a slightly more eased-out fit, we've seen great success on our new slim-leg jeans. Similarly, our Girlfriend jean has really built momentum over the past few seasons and is now a much bigger part of our total denim offering.

We've already seen strong sales on newly launched lines such as the slim wide leg, one of the newest trend shapes in the market, and our denim jogger. It was the most popular style online across total clothing within its first week of launch. As a result, we have more of this style dropping later this season in a variety of new washes.

Acid-washed styles are also proving extremely popular with our customers, with the washed/aged look a continuously growing trend within the market.
What do you think will be popular for spring 20?
Where customers have been favouring slim fits in a move away from skinny, we anticipate mom jeans, vintage straights and wider-leg silhouettes to be popular this season.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
For autumn/winter the "barrel leg" is coming through as one of the key shapes on denim. We will be introducing this style into our ranges for the first time in easy fashion washes. The flare is also a key style going into autumn 20.

Paul Brett, menswear buyer and Barbara Leonard, womenswear head of buying, both Primark
What is driving denim purchases with your customers?
More than ever our customers are looking to buy products made with more environmentally friendly materials, so the use of sustainable cotton and organic cotton in our denim has been a big hit. Keep an eye out in stores for our Primark Cares label in menswear and womenswear.

Since 2019, all denim made with sustainable cotton is identified with Primark Cares labels printed on grey card, which are made from recycled paper. Primark's Sustainable Cotton Programme aims to train 160,000 farmers across China, India and Pakistan in how to produce cotton using more environmentally friendly methods.
What is your bestselling denim item?
In womenswear our bestselling item is a high-rise skinny jean - a classic in all of our regions.

This season we've seen customer demand for authentic denim washes increase. The customer is looking for vintage-style washes that range from light blue to washed black.

In menswear the classic black denim skinny jean is our bestselling denim item, but we are definitely seeing a move towards loose and relaxed fits.
Is there a particular style of jean that you know will perform well, and has this changed in recent seasons?
While skinnies are still key in womenswear, we have seen a shift into mom jeans and straight leg shapes. Customers are favouring a more 1990s vintage look that can take them from day to night.

In menswear there is an increase in demand for a more vintage or 1990s look to denim with open-end fabric constructions [manufacturing method reducing creasing and pilling] becoming popular again. This, combined with great authentic washes, feels really new.
How has denim been performing?
In menswear denim, performance continues to be strong in Primark, especially where we have introduced new improved qualities and fits.

In addition to the classic dark and rinse washes, customers are loving our new lighter green and grey casts.

The borg-lined jacket has also become a staple among our customers, and is also selling well in new greys and ecru.
What do you think will be popular for spring 20?
Spring 20 will see the return of the 1990s jean in womenswear. Key shapes will be the flare, dad jean and the wide leg - paired with a denim shirt or jacket for the ultimate double denim look.

In menswear relaxed and loose fits in 100% cotton open-end weaves [reducing creasing and pilling] are gaining ground, combined with busted knees, and rip and repair - all key for the "soft grunge" style that is key for spring 20 menswear.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
The catwalk-inspired 1970s flare is key for autumn 20 in womenswear - worn in deep indigo washes and pared back with a pussy-bow blouse and blazer to give our customer the ultimate 1970s look.

In menswear as streetwear cleans up we will see an increase in the popularity of raw denim and rinse washes. While the current trend for cargo and utility styling will continue to be translated into the denim menswear collection at Primark.

Lorraine Martin, head of buying, Boohoo
What is influencing your customers' denim purchases?
Scrolling through Instagram gives customers inspiration to try looks they haven't before, whether it be head-to-toe denim or wearing denim in a less traditional way.

We are also pleased to offer an extensive range of denim from petite size 4 to plus size 28.

Our maternity denim performs well, as does our tall range. We offer a fully inclusive range of dresses, jumpsuits, shorts and skirts in denim, spanning a total of 34 different sizing variants.

We have launched our denim fit guide so customers can see the styles that would be most suited to their body shape, which has helped sales and increased customer confidence in buying denim online.
What is your bestselling denim item?
In terms of volume it's the skinny jean, but we have seen some really fantastic reactions to jackets and dresses within the last 12 months, which has allowed us to expand our offer to meet customer demand.
Is there a particular style of jean that you know will perform well, and has this changed in recent seasons?
Skinny has always been our bestselling shape but within the last 12 months we have seen the mom jean grow. We will continue to expand this offer in all colours, washes and levels of distressing.

We have also introduced different fabrics for improved fit and our super-four-way stretch range is proving extremely popular.
How has denim been performing?
It is gaining momentum every season, and we are investing in all departments within the denim category to offer the customer both basics and fashion shapes in this key fabric.

Fashion shapes are generally received very well by our customers and sell through both the winter and summer season. We have also introduced denim into our accessories and footwear ranges, denim backpacks, denim corsets, which have all seen good reactions.
What do you think will be popular for spring/summer 20?
Tonal denim and new leg shapes. It generally takes the Boohoo customer a little longer to buy into fashion trends, so we are expecting wide legs and straight legs to be popular this year.

Girls are now wearing denim for nights out with corsets and puff-sleeved tops, so we should continue to see this trend going into autumn 20.

You will see lots of newness start to drop for the festival season, including fringe and tasselling, tie dye and the trend for celestial, horoscope themes.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
Sustainable denim, and offering this in both basics and fashion lines. Customers are becoming a lot more conscious of how their products are sourced, and we want to grow this offer to make it easy for customers to make an informed choice.

Chinma Croft-Njku, senior denim buyer, Warehouse
What is driving denim purchases with your customers?
Denim separates, especially dresses, have become a staple within the Warehouse customer's wardrobe. Whether in clean utility detailing with turn-back tab-detail sleeves, and belted waists, or the more voluminous tiered styles, denim dresses have helped the denim department at Warehouse to become more diverse than ever.

Denim is not just limited to traditional rigid jeans and western shirts - there is so much going on.
What is your bestselling denim item?
At the moment it's a belted midi-dress. The clean modern nod to utility makes this smart enough to wear to work but casual enough to hang out in at the weekend.
Is there a particular style of jean that you know will perform well, and has this changed in recent seasons?
It's funny, as it feels as if the skinny is going full circle. It dominated for so long, and then the mom jean, slim cuts and more authentic, rigid fits became the trend.

However, with the re-emergence of the legging, oversized collars, the power blazer and voluminous sleeve proportions in tops, as well chunky boots, the skinny feels more relevant than ever.
How has denim been performing?
Jeans have been on a downward trajectory but very much offset by over-performance on skirts and as previously mentioned dresses. However, it definitely feels like we are coming out of a lull and into a denim jeans moment. We are just about to re-launch our core jeans offer, all made from sustainably sourced high-performance cotton denim. We have a high-waist skinny, slim-cut and wide-leg jean in a variety of washes.
What do you think will be popular for spring 20?
Dresses will continue to dominate at Warehouse, we have such a great offer and variety of smart casual, summer and beach wear cover up options. However, the boiler suit is one to watch - we have it in a lightweight indigo denim as well as coloured cotton options.
What do you think will be key for autumn 20?
I think the 1990s trend for minimal, clean silhouettes is only going to continue, so the black skinny will be an essential wardrobe staple. The flare/boot-cut 1990s shape, worn with a chunky boot, will also be key.

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Jeans are a wardrobe's hardest-working pieces, and a key category for retailers. The Drapers' Covid-19 coronavirus survey found that as customers stay at home, jeans and denim were now among a retailer's best-performing products.

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That fashion has a huge social and environmental debt to settle is old news. The issue now is how brands and retailers approach repaying that debt - under the scrutiny of knowledgeable and uncompromising consumers.

A key question for fashion businesses is how best to communicate their sustainability efforts to customers. Retailers are caught in a difficult situation. On the one hand, customers are demanding more information on what businesses are doing to tackle the escalating environmental emergency.

But those who misjudge how to talk about sustainability risk being accused of jumping on the bandwagon or, worse, "greenwashing". Brands also need to strike a balance between communicating technical terminology around complex sustainability issues with accessible, relevant language.

For many, communication starts internally.

"One crucial communication channel is our 80,000 colleagues," says Carmel McQuaid, head of sustainable business at Marks & Spencer. "For example, we want all our colleagues to feel comfortable explaining [to our customers] that 100% of the cotton for our clothing, including denim, is sustainably sourced.

"It's important they know what this means: in partnership with BCI [the Better Cotton Initiative], smallholder farmers have been trained to produce cotton with less water and fewer chemicals, which results in better livelihoods."

Root and branch

Valérie Martin is vice-president, communications, culture and CSR at footwear retailer Aldo, which holds quarterly discussions to communicate progress and next steps in social responsibility.

"We believe CSR needs to be embedded in the entire organisation where we put an associate engagement plan in place and track our progress," she says. "We inspire our associates to think of CSR in everything they do."

Sara Brennan, head of corporate responsibility at Pentland Brands, agrees: "The only way we can really do this is through an energised employee movement acting, thinking, designing and working in a sustainable way. Sustainability doesn't come as a department. We have a long-term investment in a dedicated team of experts to help people incorporate sustainability into their day-to-day jobs - eight in the UK and four in Asia."

Open source

Brands, retailers and commentators all agree that transparency is the route to good communication, arguing that businesses should take a 'show don't tell' approach.

"Consumers are wising up to the 'we're not perfect, but we're trying' approach. A lot of brands are putting out a blanket statement across the business as a kind of 'get out of jail free' card," says Emily Ames, co-founder of content and communications agency Sonder & Tell.

"If you are genuinely making real change, then set goals and targets, and allow your customers to see where you are winning and failing."

She urges retailers to invest in specialists who can drive real change, rather than on glossy advertising campaigns that attempt to draw a veil over the issues: "Spend money on the actual sustainability experts. Be willing to lose out on profit to implement long-standing changes in your company.

"Don't spend huge amounts of money on an ad campaign around recycling when you're the worst plastic polluter in the world."

david gandy winter 17 recycled suit marks spencer

This is a perfect example of greenwashing: placing focus or budget into a relatively small part of the business that is operating in a sustainable way, while the rest leaves much to be desired.

It is a concept that is now "more prevalent", says Brennan, and one close to the heart of Venetia La Manna, a campaigner against fast fashion.

"I haven't seen a single fast fashion brand do enough work to convince me that they're taking authentic steps," she tells Drapers. "If a fast fashion brand is boasting about a 'conscious' line, while churning out new collections every week, that's greenwashing."

Mixed blessings

Retailers need to be aware of the risks of mixed messaging when communicating new sustainability initiatives.

La Manna believes New Look's "vegan range" of shoes and bags, which launched last year, is "confusing": "They're making affordable, cruelty-free clothing that is accessible to the majority of vegans. But this range was made almost entirely from plastic and doesn't make up for the sheer amount of unethical product the brand makes."

New Look argues that the vegan range, the first high street collaboration to be backed by The Vegan Society, was created as a direct result of listening to its customers.

"The range is reliant on us having a transparent supply chain to verify the absence of animal products from the likes of glues, waxes and finishes," explains a spokesperson. "While our vegan products do use man-made materials, we are using more and more recycled and water-based materials to make the range more sustainable into 2020."

New Look adds that Kind, a range it launched last year to reduce negative "impact on the planet", is an example of a long-term investment in sustainability. Initially, it made up 10% of the autumn 19 collection, but this will rise to 30% for spring 20 and be expanded further for autumn 20.

Scale of balance

Larger retailers communicating new action on sustainability - particularly in the fast fashion sphere - also leave themselves open to accusations of hypocrisy.

Earlier this month, La Manna also publicly criticised H&M over its plans to start making clothes from Circulose - a fabric made from up-cycled clothing and fashion waste.

She said in an Instagram post to her 75,000 followers that "the sheer amount of product H&M churns out is causing irreversible harm to both people and planet, and completely outweighs their sustainability efforts".

Giorgina Waltier, H&M's sustainability manager, defends the retailer's position: "The size and scale of our business operations is often conflated with our sustainability developments, but the truth is that these are two separate issues," she explains.

"Our aim is to move to a fully circular business, meaning that the scale of our production won't have the environmental impact it has had in the past. Circulose is one of the most sustainable fabrics in the world, but it needs support to become scalable. If one of the world's largest fashion brands isn't the right organisation to invest in this innovation, who is?"

Transparency reigns

For M&S, which launched its Plan A sustainability strategy in 2007, demonstrating progress is vital.

"We're pushing further on the issues we know really matter to our customers - from sourcing more sustainable raw materials and taking action on climate change to measuring water usage in factories and dyehouses - and some of these are complex areas where there is a lot more to do," explains McQuaid. "We talk about our long intent and are open about the fact that in many cases we're not there yet, but we are committed to achieving those aims and making change happen."

At Aldo, the approach is scientific. The group's sustainability team includes a lawyer with CSR reporting expertise and a PhD in climate science, as well as a chemical engineer and life-cycle assessment expert. An in-house team calculates the retailer's carbon footprint.

"We started our climate journey in 2013 but didn't really tell our story externally until now because we wanted to ensure we'd measured our own carbon footprint, which ranges from operations to our products," explains Martin. "This set a baseline of how we can improve, and the steps we're taking to improve it. It's important for us to communicate not only what we're doing, but what we want to achieve. This allows our associates, customers and partners to hold each other accountable."

How brands communicate these steps varies largely, depending on their customers and how far along the journey they are. M&S hosts an interactive supplier map on its corporate website, which provides detailed information on its factories.

H&M opened up its supply chain last year: shoppers can access information including suppliers' names, production countries, factory names and addresses across all garments. Customers can view the information online or by using the retailer's app to scan price tags.

Aldo also has a public-facing website with all its CSR initiatives. Social media is key for talking to the retailer's millennial and Generation Z consumers.

"They are leading the conversation in saving the planet," says Martin. "So like everything we do at the Aldo Group, when we want to engage with our customers, we use social media, influencers, store activations and store websites

As for tone of voice, opinions range from "collaborative" and "informative" to "exciting", but the underlying theme is of consistency.

"Consumers notice when a tone of voice is erratic or inconsistent, and this speaks to the earlier question about greenwashing," says Pentland's Brennan. "The tone of voice should reflect the reality of the brand values. Consumers are smart - they can spot when sustainability isn't at the heart of the company."

Indeed. And this pressure will only grow. Jemma Finch, co-founder of storytelling agency Stories Behind Things, which focuses on sustainability, cites Patagonia, Allbirds, Noah, Reformation and Riley Studio as brands that strike a balance between communicating complex terminology with accessible, on-brand language.

"Consumers need to remain curious, ask questions, email brands, shout them out on social media, and hold them accountable to share information on ethical certificates, how much they pay their staff and exactly where their clothes are made," she says.

"In terms of brands, it's inspiring to see so many treading new radical pathways of communicating honestly with their community to reveal their supply chain details and educating their consumers on why they operate the way they do."

Ultimately, how brands and retailers communicate these steps to their customers shouldn't be difficult at all - provided they have something to say in the first place. Style over substance will get you into all sorts of trouble.

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That fashion has a huge social and environmental debt to settle is old news. The issue now is how brands and retailers approach repaying that debt - under the scrutiny of knowledgeable and uncompromising consumers. A key question for fashion businesses is how best to communicate their sustainability efforts to customers.

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On-trend, puffed-sleeve prairie dresses, a stand-out gingham skirt and a dose of double denim are what Marks & Spencer hopes it customers will be wearing this summer.

The brand is undoubtedly hoping that the collection - full of easy-to-wear pieces such as lightweight dresses, a pull-on-and-go jumpsuit and relaxed tailoring - will help to offset its latest fall in sales.

The most recent figures published in January showed a 1.7% drop in like-for-like clothing and home sales in shops open for more than a year.

The retailer had to cancel its preview on 17 March, and unveil its latest collection via email and a virtual tour, because of restrictions on unnecessary contact during the coronavirus outbreak.

M&S is the market leader in denim - it says it sells 15 pairs every minute - and it is playing to its strengths to bolster sales. The range features a new jogging bottom-shaped jean, as well as relaxed culottes and a chambray shirt in denim.

Tiered prairie dresses have been inspired by recent cinema hit Little Women, says the retailer's womenswear head of design Lisa Illis. Design details such as midi hemlines and loose shapes will ensure the trend-inspired styles will not alienate the M&S customer.

A pale yellow, relaxed-fit gingham suit is another stand-out item.

Last summer M&S hired former Topshop fashion director Maddy Evans as head of buying. She highlights two printed "Holly dresses" in its summer campaign that launches in April that would be "perfect for any spring or summer occasion".

TV presenter Holly Willoughby features in the campaign alongside actress Vicky McClure. Product promoted by Willoughby includes a pale pink and white polka dot midi shirt dress, and floral midi-skirt that will undoubtedly be summer hits.

Evans says M&S's Per Una range continues to be successful, following a "mini-refresh" for autumn 19 with linen and basics that "the customer is loving at the moment".

A fall in sales over Christmas was partly attributed to menswear buying errors: stocking too many modern-cut slim and skinny trouser styles, and not enough of its regular shapes.

A spokesperson told Drapers earlier this year that the issue had been rectified. True to its word, M&S's summer product does include a combination of skinny-cut shapes alongside regular styles in its menswear offer.

There are Hawaiian-printed shirts for M&S's more daring menswear shopper, alongside neutrals and wardrobe staples for the customer base that plays it safer - which should help to avoid further fallout.

Meanwhile, the womenswear collection is full of reliable pieces that should form staple pieces in existing customers' wardrobes.

M&S is attempting to appeal to its customer base with wearable shapes, while attracting a younger marker with trends such as prairie in womenswear, and tropical prints in its menswear offer.

However, it is likely to be a very difficult summer season for all fashion retailers, including M&S. Given current travel bans and advice to restrict non-essential social contact, neither women's nor men's wear customers are likely to be shopping for a summer holiday. Whether M&S's summer collection will be the ray of sunshine shoppers need is still yet to be seen.

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On-trend, puffed-sleeve prairie dresses, a stand-out gingham skirt and a dose of double denim are what Marks & Spencer hopes it customers will be wearing this summer. The brand is undoubtedly hoping that the collection - full of easy-to-wear pieces such as lightweight dresses, a pull-on-and-go jumpsuit and relaxed tailoring - will help to offset its latest fall in sales.

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It means the retailer has improved the proposition from 8pm to 11pm in the last 12 months. This change has been trialled with selected customers since the start of 2020.

The retailer is also trialling an express service in 17 of its larger stores, including Cheshire Oaks, Manchester and Oxford Street, where online customers can collect their parcel two hours later. M&S said it is monitoring the trial closely to consider where and when it might be rolled out further.

M&S is targeting for online to account for 30% of sales by 2022. It currently accounts for 22%.

"M&S is changing and we've got an ambitious target to have one-third of our clothing sales online by 2022, to do this we must improve how we serve our increasingly busy customers", Simon Wood, head of M&S.com said. "Our free click-and-collect service is already incredibly popular, and in the last 12 months we've made it even more convenient by adding pick-up points at our railway station stores and other smaller store locations. The latest improvement will enable thousands more customers to benefit from the service - by catering for that pre-bedtime browse and shop window between 10pm and 11pm."

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It means the retailer has improved the proposition from 8pm to 11pm in the last 12 months. This change has been trialled with selected customers since the start of 2020. The retailer is also trialling an express service in 17 of its larger stores, including Cheshire Oaks, Manchester and Oxford Street, where online customers can collect their parcel two hours later.

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M&S said in a statement that clothing and home sales have seen "substantial decline" since the crisis began, and that profits for the current quarter were likely to be either at the bottom end of the forecast of £440m-£460m, or potentially lower if trading in clothing and home continued to be hit.

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Long Eaton is run by DHL, and Thorncliffe is run by XPO. Both logistics firm will consult with their staff: 330 people are impacted at Long Eaton and 332 at Thorncliffe.

M&S said the changes were part of its transition to a nationally connected supply chain network that will help to fix the basics of its supply chain.

It is also investing in its six national distribution centres in Welham Green, Bradford, Stoke, Swindon, Thurrock and Castle Donington.

An M&S spokeswoman said: "We're in the early stages of changing our supply chain to address flow of product and availability for our customers. As part of this, we'll no longer be serving our stores from our Thorncliffe and Long Eaton distribution centres. Moving the operations is not a decision we've taken lightly, but it's an important change to help us best serve our customers as we move to a nationally connected network. Our logistics partners will be working closely with the colleagues at the sites on what is best for them."

UK clothing and home sales at M&S dipped by 3.7% year on year to £1bn in the 13 weeks to 28 December. Sales for clothing and home were down 1.7% on a like-for-like basis. Over the Christmas period the menswear category was hit by poor availability in trousers.

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Long Eaton is run by DHL, and Thorncliffe is run by XPO. Both logistics firm will consult with their staff: 330 people are impacted at Long Eaton and 332 at Thorncliffe. M&S said the changes were part of its transition to a nationally connected supply chain network that will help to fix the basics of its supply chain.

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The new tool, which is now live in store and online, offers a personalised experience for customers, including appointment reminders, and follow-up emails with recommendations for new products in preferred styles.

The tool is also linked to the retailer's Sparks loyalty card, meaning customers can simply scan their card with the bra fitter to access all their details, rather than having to find their booking email when they go for an appointment.

The M&S team has also created a version of the booking tool for the digital devices used by store colleagues, meaning they can quickly and easily book appointments for customers shopping in-store. The retailer has invested in 16,000 of these digital tools for staff, from Honeywell.

The post-appointment customer emails, which move the fitting service to paper-free, have been designed to help women who want to repeat purchases. The digital tool retains all of a customer's favourites and preferences, allowing customers to purchase online after a bra fit.

M&S said the in-house service will help the business by providing the team with access to better data, to suggest personalised products to customers, and therefore ultimately grow the service. In the long term, it will improve availability of bras, as the retailer will have a better understanding of bestselling bra sizes and styles, as well as being able to better track lingerie shopping trends and buying habits.

The new tool also means M&S can more accurately record how many bra fits are happening to ensure every store has the right amount of bra fitters working from its team of 5,000 trained fitters.

"M&S is changing and we have a relentless focus on what our customers want - easy to wear style and wardrobe essentials delivered at great value and backed up by an easy shopping experience", Laura Charles, director of lingerie for M&S, said. "With one in three women wearing an M&S bra, it's our ultimate wardrobe essential and we're excited that this tool will help us improve the shopping experience for our customers. Offering us better access to data, it can ultimately help us grow our market-leading bra share."

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The new tool, which is now live in store and online, offers a personalised experience for customers, including appointment reminders, and follow-up emails with recommendations for new products in preferred styles.

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Store and supply chain workers will receive a 15% salary increase for hours worked between 5 April and 31 May.

The company said: "We fully support the government's efforts to protect the NHS and save lives. Last week, we temporarily suspended our clothing and home store operations and closed outlet stores, while our foodhalls and online businesses remain open so we can continue to deliver for customers. This means, for the moment, we have more colleagues than we need to operate our larger shops and outlet stores. We have now confirmed how we will continue to support and reward colleagues.

"Our approach to furloughing is voluntary, so frontline colleagues who have caring commitments or who are feeling more vulnerable are able to step away at this time. Any colleague who is furloughed for the coming weeks will do so on full pay."

It added: "Our frontline colleagues across stores and supply chain who continue to work will receive an additional 15% pay reward in recognition of the work they are doing to support their teams and the national effort to help customers access the products they need during these unprecedented times.

"Alongside this, our commitment that any colleague who needs to self-isolate for seven to 14 days can do so on full pay remains unchanged. Colleagues who are pregnant, 70-years-old-plus, or with the health conditions specified by the Department of Health, are already on leave for 12 weeks on full pay."

M&S is also rolling out further measures to support colleague health and well-being, including rolling out plastic personal face shields and plastic sneeze guards on checkouts.

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M&S offers frontline staff 15% extra pay

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Store and supply chain workers will receive a 15% salary increase for hours worked between 5 April and 31 May. The company said: "We fully support the government's efforts to protect the NHS and save lives.

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Tamara Ingram and Sapna Sood will join the retailer on 21 May.

Sood is a group director at food service company Compass Group, where she has led the international clients and market development business for the last four years.

She has also been non-executive director at Kering for the last four years, with her term expiring on 16 June, as well as chairing Kering's sustainability committee.

Ingram joins from London-based advertising, marketing and public relations firm WPP, where she has worked since 2002. Prior to this she worked at Saatchi and Saatchi where she held the roles of CEO and chair.

She is currently non-executive chair of global digital agency Wunderman Thompson and a non-executive director for professional services firm Marsh MacLennan.

In addition to these non-executive appointments to the M&S board, Katie Bickerstaffe started in her role of chief strategy and transformation director on 27 April, and will step down from the board in July. Eoin Tonge will join the board as chief financial officer on 8 June, as announced in February.

Alison Brittain has decided to step down from the M&S board after serving for six years, and will retire as a director prior to the annual general meeting in July.

M&S chairman Archie Norman said: "To support the transformation challenge at M&S we have built a very strong board with diverse and relevant operational experience who are closely engaged with the executive team.

"The appointment of Tamara and Sapna, in addition to Eoin joining the board as an executive director, will bring in fresh and diverse talent and two exceptionally smart new people. Our enormous thanks go to Alison who has been a strong and active board member for the last six years."
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Tamara Ingram and Sapna Sood will join the retailer on 21 May. Sood is a group director at food service company Compass Group, where she has led the international clients and market development business for the last four years.

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The retailer asked suppliers to temporarily halt production on 24 March, following the lockdown that closed all non-essential shops in the UK. However, it has paid for all products that have already shipped and has committed to paying for the "vast majority" of orders yet to be shipped.

The retailer has also promised to pay for fabric purchased by suppliers, to ensure none goes to waste.

An M&S spokeswoman said: "We're very proud to have strong long-term relationships with our clothing suppliers and we're doing all we can for our partners in this unprecedented time.

"We have paid for all shipped products and for the vast majority of orders we will pre-pay for all garments and committed fabric - which is the most expensive cost for a supplier and across all our partners we will aim to ensure that no fabric goes to waste and is used at a later date. Most of our orders will be paid through the vendor finance facility we have available."

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Marks & Spencer commits to paying suppliers

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The retailer asked suppliers to temporarily halt production on 24 March, following the lockdown that closed all non-essential shops in the UK. However, it has paid for all products that have already shipped and has committed to paying for the "vast majority" of orders yet to be shipped.

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The retailer plans to borrow cash through the government's Covid Corporate Financing Facility, and has also reached an agreement with its banks to "substantially relax or remove covenant conditions" on its existing £1.1bn credit facility.

M&S said the moves will "secure liquidity" for the duration of the coronavirus crisis and "underpin the recovery strategy and accelerated transformation" during 2021.

As part of the planning for these measures, and in order to provide for the uncertain outlook, the board does not anticipate paying a dividend for the 2020/21 financial year, generating a cash saving of around £210m.

The retailer admitted that the health emergency has meant its clothing and home business would be "severely constrained" by lockdown, and warned that there were likely to be "highly uncertain trading conditions" during a "prolonged exit period" from the government's measures.

In a statement, the company said: "In the absence of a clear basis for forecasting, our scenario planning and stress tests are based on materially subdued trading for the balance of 2020 in clothing and home. M&S benefits from having a strong food business and the transition to Ocado supply is on track to proceed in September to form a multi-channel food operation.

"However, food trading has been adversely affected by lockdown due to the closure of cafes and slowdown in travel in some city centre locations."

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M&S secures fresh funding and warns on 'subdued' trading

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The retailer plans to borrow cash through the government's Covid Corporate Financing Facility, and has also reached an agreement with its banks to "substantially relax or remove covenant conditions" on its existing £1.1bn credit facility. M&S said the moves will "secure liquidity" for the duration of the coronavirus crisis and "underpin the recovery strategy and accelerated transformation" during 2021.