# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Walking Tapir Automaton

After making a simple snake automaton, I decided to build something a little more elaborate and challenging. So I present to you the 'walking tapir'.

Tapirs are large, herbivorous mammals belonging to the family Tapiridae. They are similar in shape to a pig, with a short, prehensile nose trunk; but they are actually related to horses and rhinoceroses. Tapirs are endangered animals found in places like jungle and forest regions of South and Central America and Southeast Asia.

This Instructable shows you how to make the walking tapir automaton. If you wish to design a different walking animal you can replace the tapir body and legs with your own design; just copy the hole pattern into the correct positions.
Walking Tapir Youtube Short

Add Tip Ask Question Download

Supplies

1/8" plywood, 1/4" hardwood e.g. maple

1/8" and 3/16" dia dowels, about 20" length needed

1/2" oak dowel for the handle, 7 inches

CA glue, wood glue

Laser cutter or scroll saw

Drill press

Add Tip Ask Question Download

Step 1: Design

First I did several prototypes of the automaton to optimize the design and figure out the best way to put everything together. As with many of my projects I designed the walking tapir using Fusion 360 software. This gave me a playground to tweak various design parameters and visualize the resulting movements. The mechanism is based on the Jansen's linkage. From the software I could also export the files for all parts to be cut on my laser cutter. You could use the same files to lay out the parts to be cut with a scroll saw, or even 3d print the project. I have included all files as well as an animation of the walking tapir.

Add Tip Ask Question Download

Step 2: Cutting the Parts

I cut most parts from 1/8" (3mm) thick plywood. The body however is a piece of 1/4" thick hardwood (maple). Axles are made from 1/8" and 3/16" diameter dowels. For glue I used CA glue with a spray-on accelerator.

You will need:

1x tapir body

8x long link, short link

4x triangle link

2x spur12, spur9 (these are the spur gears)

4x spur6

2x fore leg, aft leg

2x crank

30 (+) washers, have some extras handy

20x 1/8" dowel axles for the linkages, various length

5x 3/16" dowel pieces for gear axles and crank

Add Tip Ask Question Download

Step 3: Assembly

There are a few tricks to make everything work smoothly during assembly. I first assembled and tested the gear train. I then attached a 7" long 1/2" dia oak dowel to the body to serve as a handle. Make sure the axles (dowels) fit snugly thru the holes but still turn easily. 'Lubricate' all moving surfaces and axles with candle wax to reduce friction. Frequently test during the assembly, e.g. after adding another linkage to confirm everything still moves freely. It takes a little tweaking to have the mechanism function smoothly, so don't give up. When you assemble the second side of the tapir mechanism be sure to offset the drive gear (spur12) by half a turn so that the left/right legs move in proper relation to each other. Use washers as spacers to keep the linkages aligned. Glue the washers to the end of the axles to keep all linkages and gears secured, but be sure the mechanism still moves freely. Trim the axles flush after full assembly, gluing, and testing.

Lastly, I made a stand for the automaton, a simple piece of 1" by 1" by 8" wood with a 1/2" hole to hold the handle. The stand makes it easier to operate the walking tapir!

Enjoy!

Add Tip Ask Question Download

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Walking Tapir Automaton: After making a simple snake automaton, I decided to build something a little more elaborate and challenging. So I present to you the 'walking tapir'. Tapirs are large, herbivorous mammals belonging to the family Tapiridae. They are similar in shape ...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Friendship Bracelets

Here's how to make almost every kind of friendship bracelet. We'll start out easy and make more complex designs as we go.

Supplies

You don't need much to get started. I've included a list of the basic supplies below:

Step 1: Watch the Video

It's easiest to learn the moves by watching somebody else do it first. I made a video containing all these patterns, check it out!

Step 2: Braided Loops

Tape or pin the knot to something secure, and arrange the loops on your first and second fingers as shown- two on one side and one on the other. Start with whichever hand only has one loop, and weave your next finger through the loops on your other hand, grabbing the last loop and pulling it through.

Reposition the single loop to your first finger and repeat on the other side, pulling tight in between each stitch.

The downside to this type of bracelet is that it's hard to put it down and pick it back up again without messing up the pattern- it's best done in a single sitting. Which isn't too hard, since it goes pretty fast.

When it's as long as you like, tie off the loops with a knot.

You can easily scale up this design by adding more strings, up to seven if you have the typical number of fingers. Just use your free finger to weave through the loops on the other hand, grab the last one and pull tight, then move all the remaining loops up one finger and repeat on the other side.

Step 3: The Spiral Staircase

Start with as many strings as you like, each about twice as long as you want your bracelet to be, or four times longer if you want a loop at the starting end (as shown here). Make a knot and tape or pin it in place.

Then, separate one strand from the rest and begin making overhand knots tying the single string around the rest, one after another. Lefties, you can make these to the left if you prefer.

They will naturally tend to stack up slightly offset from each other. After a few, you'll notice the whole thing wanting to twist, so you should feed the working thread behind the core every once in a while to help the spiral take shape.

To switch colors, just select a different working thread and put the previous one back into the core. Pay attention to where the first knot of a new color lands, and guide it next to sit just below the previous knot.

This bracelet is easy because all the knots are the same, and you can switch to any color at any time. Be careful not to use up all of any one thread before the final length is achieved. No special finishing is required to complete the bracelet.

Step 4: The Diagonal Stripe

This one also only uses overhand knots. Start with your preferred number of strings, either all different colors or doubled over to create a loop. They should be about two to three times longer than your final bracelet. Splay out the strings in order, and pick up the one on the left side, if you're right-handed.

Tie this working thread in two overhand knots on each other thread, in order, until you reach the other side.

Repeat with the next string, stacking up rows of overhand knots with each color, which will naturally take a diagonal pattern. The more strings, the wider your bracelet will be, and also naturally the strings will have to be longer to start with, too.

Step 5: Chevron

Start out with two strings of each color and splay them out so the color order is symmetrical.

For this one, we'll introduce a second type of knot. The left side of the chevron will be formed with the same right-facing overhand knots you have been using for the spiral staircase and the diagonal stripe bracelets, two per string, but the right side will be formed with underhand knots made the opposite way, such that their tail faces to the left.

In the middle, you can make either kind of knot- it doesn't matter.

In my observation, this left-facing knot has more variation in how folks like to make it than the right-facing knot, and not just for lefties. Some prefer to make this knot with their left hand. I happen to be extremely right-handed, so I prefer making it with my right hand. When you're learning, experiment to find out what works best for you.

All rows in the chevon bracelet pattern are the same, and the colors alternate in sequential order. Using more strands of the same color will result in fatter stripes, and will require longer strings to achieve the desired length.

Step 6: Fancy Starting Loop

Now that you know both of the main knots, you can get fancy with the way you start and finish your friendship bracelets.

To make a fancy loop at the start of your bracelet, cut one strand about 10 centimeters longer than the rest, then tape your strands down just a little bit off-center, with the longer portion facing you.

Use this extra long strand to alternate creating right-facing knots and left-facing knots around the core to build up a section as long as you like. This is sort of like the spiral staircase, except the alternating keeps the knots from spiraling. Untape it and fold the knotted section in half to begin your bracelet.

The other way I've seen folks start this out is by finding the center of the longer string and looping it around the center of the rest of the strings.

Step 7: The Buckle Loop

You can finish the starting loop a couple of different ways. The first is The Buckle Loop, where you take your two outermost strings and create a knot between them that encapsulates the rest of the strings. It's best for thinner bracelets since it cinches all the strings together.

Step 8: The Teardrop Loop

You can also use this method, which is better for wider bracelets. Basically, you'll tie knots with each string in color order around the remaining strings, and set each one down afterward.

But there's a new type of knot combo here we haven't covered yet. Instead of two right- or left-facing knots, on the right side I'm making a left-facing knot followed by a right-facing knot, we'll call that a "left-right knot," and on the other side I'm making "right-left knots."

When only one string is left on each side, tie the two center strings together using whichever knots you like. Now you're ready to begin your bracelet pattern.

Step 9: Triangle Ends

You can use triangle ends to complete your bracelets. On the left side, pick up the third string from the outer edge and tie two left-facing knots around the two strings to the left of it.

Join all three strings together and repeat tying each next string around the growing bundle until you reach the center. On the right side, do the same. Pick up the third string from the edge and tie two right-facing knots around the two strings, then join and repeat with the next.

Once you have completed the triangle, you can braid your ends into one or two ties. Or, for another option, twist both halves independently while the bracelet is anchored, then pick up the whole thing and let them twist around each other, and tie a knot to keep the twist.

To wear your bracelet, it's easiest to have a friend put it on you.

Step 10: Fixing Mistakes

Eventually, you'll make a wrong move and want to undo it. The easiest way I've found is to use a straight pin or sewing needle to pick at the stitches until they loosen. You can also use a safety pin but it's a little thicker and a little less pointy.

Step 11: Hearts

This pattern starts with four strings of each color, and a row of the chevron pattern to start out.

Then pick up the second string from the edge and make two knots on each, facing the corresponding way. Repeat this on the other side.

Next tie any knot combo you like between the two strings of the same color that are now next to each other, one set on each side, then use those same strings to keep knotting in the directions they are facing, so the outer ones have knots facing out and the inner ones have knots facing in, and then they join in the center.

Step 12: Diamonds

You'll start with two of each color string. The color that you choose for the Xs that go through the pattern should be almost twice as long as the rest of your string since it'll be used up more quickly by the pattern.

This pattern only uses left-facing and right-facing knots, and if you do arrange the colors in order from light to dark or dark to light, it results in this neat three-dimensional-looking pattern.

Step 13: Finding Other Patterns

Now that you've got the hang of the basics, you can apply them to any pattern you find online. If a pattern seems too difficult for you at first, come back to it after a bit more practice and try again.

There are lots of free pattern resources out there. Here are some of my favorites:

I love that you can take this craft project with you and work on it almost anywhere, and also the way it feels for friends to enjoy their bracelets.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Repair and Reuse Contest

For the Home Contest

Make It Bridge

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Here's how to make almost every kind of friendship bracelet. We'll start out easy and make more complex designs as we go. You don't need much to get started. I've included a list of the basic supplies below: It's easiest to learn the moves by watching somebody else do it first.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Tiny Jet Card Stock Glider W/ 4th Gen Style

Hello! And would you like to make a jet glider?

This little glider can be made in about 40 minutes. It can fly beyond 25' / 8m when thrown level and with moderate force. Being a very small glider, it's well suited for indoor flight, but you can also fly it outdoors when there's no wind.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Baking Contest

Crafts For Kids Challenge

Clocks Contest

Supplies

-beige file folder, cut to a standard size (8.5" x 11" / A4)

or sheet of medium weight card stock (80 lb. / 215 gsm)

or sheet of printer paper and sheet of light card stock (65 lb. / 175 gsm) that are glued together

-scrap piece of white card stock (optional)

-liquid white glue and glue stick

-ruler

-scissors and hobby knife

Step 1: Download & Print

Two jets can be made from a single sheet of material! Download the PDF of the plans and print at 100% scale.

If you can't print directly onto the thick material you've chosen, print onto normal paper and use a photocopier to transfer the plans.

*update* I learned how to make vector files, and added one. I haven't tested it with an automated cutting machine, but I think it'll work.

Step 2: Main Piece

Cut the pieces out very carefully. Scissors will suffice, but a hobby knife and metal ruler are good for some areas; if you are a young person, get permission and help from your parent or guardian before using a hobby knife.

The fuselage, wings, and horizontal stabilizers constitute the main piece (A). It gets reinforced with two braces, the larger (B) attached first and the smaller (A) attached second. Use a glue stick for this. Once the glue has dried enough to prevent the brace from sliding, place the whole thing under a large book and allow it to dry for several minutes.

Step 3: Elevators and Wing Contour

Dotted lines need creases. Use a ruler to help make the creases straight and crisp. Start all creases at an angle of just a few degrees, checking to make sure the crease is on the line before pushing it to the needed angle. For the time being, do not crease the parallel lines at the wing roots.

The elevators should be angled up (i.e. have a deflection of) about 7 degrees.

The leading edges of the wings should be angled down approximately 5 degrees at the wing roots, with the angle fading to just a degree or two at the wing tips. If your having trouble accurately positioning the ruler, try using a strong back light. The trailing edges of the wings should be angled down about 7 degrees at the roots and just a few degrees at the wing tips. Lastly, pinch along the leading and trailing edges repeatedly with your thumb and finger to round the angles somewhat.

The wing should be slightly dihedral. Relative to a horizontal plane, the wing tips should be raised about three millimeters. It may be the case that the wings curl up as the glue cured, in which case you might just leave the wing roots uncreased.

Step 4: Ventral Braces

If not already done, make creases on the dotted lines of the main ventral brace (D). The piece will be folded over on the center line, and the outer lines will be angled 90 degrees.

The brace has four panels. Apply a thin layer of liquid glue over the either of the two middle panels, then fold over and press them together, being careful to not accidentally glue the outer panels together. Allow to glue to dry for a few minutes.

Use liquid glue to attach the finished brace to the fuselage. The back of it will be flush with the aft end of the fuselage.

Now get the two strips (E) and use a glue stick to attach the narrower of the two on to the top of the wider. Press the layers together. Now glue the pieces to the ventral side of the jet's nose. Allow the glue to bond, then trim the overhanging material.

Step 5: Vertical Stabilizer

Use a very thin bead of liquid glue to attach the vertical stabilizer (F). Monitor it as the glue dries and prevent it from leaning to one side or the other.

Step 6: Canopy & Inspection

If you want a white canopy, trace the canopy piece (G) onto a scrap piece of white card stock. Cut out the piece and use a ruler to make creases on the dotted lines, then push the angles to about 80 degrees.

Apply dots of liquid glue to the sides of the canopy, at the triangular relief cuts. The front section (triangular) of the canopy will be pushed back, and the sides will overlap the back section of the canopy. Push it back until the bottom of the canopy is flat, then pinch the sides of the canopy to lock the angles. Allow the glue to dry and, if needed, trim the bottom of the canopy so it can rest on a flat surface. Attach the canopy to the jet using liquid glue.

Check the glider from front, back, top, and bottom. Look for warps, twists, and other issues. With gentle working and reworking, the card stock will retain a new position or shape.

Step 7: Test Flights

A light breeze to you is like a gale to this little glider! If possible, test it indoors.

Throw the glider softly and on a level trajectory. Try to be as consistent as possible, and test it several times. If it tends to dive, deflect the elevators up. Tiny, incremental adjustments are key.

Use a bit of rudder to counteract a mild turn. Deflecting the rudder to the left with cause the glider to go left, and deflecting it to the right will make it turn right. Again, make tiny adjustments.

If attempts to correct a turn with the rudder are unsuccessful, adjust the wings to counteract a roll tendency. Treat the middle trailing edge of each wing as if it were an aileron. Raising the left trailing edge will help the glider roll left, and lowering it will help it roll right. Adjusting the right trailing edge will have the opposite effect.

Good luck!

Step 8: Video

Build montage and flights.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Tiny Jet Card Stock Glider W/ 4th Gen Style

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Tiny Jet Card Stock Glider W/ 4th Gen Style: Hello! And would you like to make a jet glider? This little glider can be made in about 40 minutes. It can fly beyond 25' / 8m when thrown level and with moderate force.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Next is the details!

You can decorate the stocking in any way you want. You can make it so it comes out the stocking color, like me, or layer it up so that it comes out the same color as the stocking fluff and stands out from the background.

Originally, i printed it with no design and it was pretty plain. After talking to jessyratfink, I decided I needed something on it and imitated a knit pattern using the Egg shape. Because of all the shapes, it takes a long time to load, but I like the way it looks.

Once I had the repeating pattern, I laid it on top of the stocking. To cut it out, I used the handy SVG options and created an Outer Line of the stocking and made it large enough to cut off the excess.

After that, I just needed to add a name and I was done!

I used the Shape Generators Custom Text Font to import a custom font (which I talk about in an Instructable from last year).

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Customizable 3D Printed Stocking Ornament

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Customizable 3D Printed Stocking Ornament: I wanted to have some fun with customizable / personalizable ornaments and came up with a simple 3D printed stocking ornament with knit detail. You can leave it blank or put your name on the top of the stocking. The color change is simple as it's do...

# data[].attributes.headline
Articulated creatures with Tinkercad connectors

# data[].attributes.subject
Articulated creatures with Tinkercad connectors

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Articulated Creatures With Tinkercad Connectors

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Articulated Creatures With Tinkercad Connectors: Through this instructable I taught my students how to use Tinkercad’s predesigned connectors and other strategies to design their own 3D printing characters with movement. Supported by examples from renowned members of the global maker community, I …

# data[].attributes.body
I think this is from Bleach (an anime)

# data[].attributes.body
I did this with my husband's help. It was my first try.

# data[].attributes.body
I used a scroll saw to cut these out.

# data[].attributes.body
My front yard!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Low Budget Mechanised Movable Eyes: Hellooo Instructables!
Halloween is fast approaching once again and I would like to share with you a cheap way to add movable eyes to your cosplay, props or puppets. To be fair this can be used at anytime of the year not just Halloween This is a r…

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Creating Wall Art With Crayons

This project started as an accident. I wanted to create something that looked like pointillism using crayons. The idea had been to put down tiny pieces of crayon on the canvas and then melt them. I didn't want to use a blow-dryer since that seemed too messy and I didn't have an oven to bake the painting in.

So I improvised and put a piece of parchment paper over my design and ironed it. I didn't get pointillism... what I got was a happy little accident.

Combining an abstract look of watercolor along with an interesting texture was more than I had expected. This project is good for children aged 6 and up with adult supervision. It's also great for teenagers and adults. One of the things that I love about this project is that each painting will be absolutely unique.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Halloween Contest

Crayons Challenge

Cheese Challenge

Supplies

Crayons in all sizes and colors

A canvas

It can be stretched or regular.

I used a 12x12 stretched canvas for this tutorial

I have used all sizes and styles and they all work equally well

A few sheets of parchment paper

An iron

A cheap sharpener and/or a cheese grater

I used a sharpener for this project

I have included pictures later of a painting where I used the cheese grater

A cup of warm/soapy water (optional)

Step 1: Choose Your Colors

Choose your crayons. I recommend starting with the primary colors (red, yellow and blue). Your crayons can be all sizes and from different companies. They can be broken or whole. All crayons are welcome.

Step 2: Remove the Wrapping

Take off the wrappings from all of the chosen crayons. If you're struggling with getting them off, it's time for a crayon bath!

Fill a hot cup with warm soapy water.

Put chosen crayons inside.

Leave soaking for a few minutes.

Most of the wrappers will have automatically unwrapped themselves from the crayons.

Take the crayons out carefully.

(Optional: Lay the full wrappers on a flat surface for later use.)

Dry your crayons.

Note: It's okay if the dried crayons look like they have pieces of glue still attached.

Step 3: Lay Canvas on Parchment Paper

Make sure that your parchment paper is larger than your canvas. Lay the parchment paper on a smooth surface and the canvas in the middle. The next few steps can get a little messy so be sure that your surface and floor are washable.

It is recommended that you make sure there are no carpets or rugs in the vicinity. There are a lot of crayon shavings and they might get mushed into the fibers.

Step 4: Shred Your Crayons

Using either a cheese grater or a sharpener, begin to shred your first color of choice. Shred the crayon over the spot where you want that color to be. For example, if you want yellow in the middle of your canvas, shred the yellow crayon in the middle of the canvas.

Continue to add colors to your canvas. You want to add enough that the crayons will melt over the whole canvas, but not too much that it ends up looking like blobs. It's okay to see the canvas through the shreddings. The crayons will melt over it.

Step 5: Melt Your Masterpiece

Cover your canvas with another piece of parchment paper that is larger than the canvas.

Set your iron to high. When it is hot enough, put it down gently on the parchment paper covered canvas. Carefully iron the picture. You will see that the colors will start to bleed into each other underneath the parchment paper. This is good! Continue until all of the white spots are gone. You can use the iron to gently move the colors to cover any white spots that might still be there.

Take the parchment off slowly while it is still hot. This is what adds the interesting textures and designs.

Step 6: Hang It Proudly!

Step 7: Shredding Crayons Vs. Sharpening

I used sharpened crayons in the above example but have also used a cheese shredder for other paintings. There are pros and cons to each one.

Sharpened crayons give you bigger pieces, which you can then grind to smaller pieces with your fingers. This gives the advantage of putting a color in a very specific place. Shredded crayons are finer and you don't have to worry about the crayons "blobbing" up as much. Experiment and see which way (or a combination of both) suites you best.

Step 8: More Paintings Using This Method

Here are some other samples of the same method. As you can see, each one comes out with a unique and interesting design.

That's it! Use your imagination and see what blooms on your canvas.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Creating Wall Art With Crayons: This project started as an accident. I wanted to create something that looked like pointillism using crayons. The idea had been to put down tiny pieces of crayon on the canvas and then melt them. I didn't want to use a blow-dryer since that seemed t...

# data[].attributes.body
You could design these on Inkscape!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: How to Create a Simple Stick Puppet

Hello everyone! I am going to show you all how I created this puppet. I was inspired by my Wayang Golek puppets that I have in my collection which are wooden puppets traditionally performed with in West Java, Indonesia.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Microcontroller Contest

First Time Author Contest

Plywood Contest

Supplies

Creative Paperclay or any other air drying clay

3 Skewers

Masking tape

Cork

Acrylic paint

Wire (16-20 guage)

Exacto Knife

Needle nose pliers

Aleene's Tacky Glue

Lambswool (optional)

Fabric

Sealer

Step 1: Prep!

Take your 3 skewers, cut 2 of them in half with an exacto knife. The full size skewer will be used for the body, you will be attaching the head to this one. The two that were cut in half will be for the left and right arms.

Get your cork and cut it in half with the exacto knife.

Step 2: Get Your Head Together!

Take one half of your cork that was cut in the previous step. Get the full sized skewer and put the cork piece on the top of it. You can push it through the cork if possible and tape it in place with your masking tape. However you do it, make sure that it is taped securely in place so that you can sculpt your head over it.

Step 3: Head Sculpting!

Once the cork is secure in place, begin to smooth clay around it for the head. Keep building up the head and the face in stages. When you reach your level of satisfaction, set the piece aside to dry. This process can take anywhere from 24 to 48 hours depending on how damp your home is or how thick your layers of clay are.
Side Note: You have to work in stages with paperclay. When you get the basic shape of the piece that you are working on, you'll want to set the piece aside to dry. You'll come back and add more details and sand away the pieces that you'll like to refine. It is a constant build up and take away process. Be patient!

Step 4: Arm Day!

Take the four smaller skewers that you cut in the first step. Chisel and indent all the way around them with your exacto knife about a half inch down from the top. This is where you will be wrapping your string to attach the arms to the shoulders and then the hands to the other set of sticks for movement.

Step 5: Handywork!

Start making the hands on the other end of two of the sticks. Don't get too detailed since you will need a sort of mitt to run some string through for the other set of sticks. Make sure you shape out a hole in the center of the hands before the clay dries so that you can run your string through it.

Step 6: Head and Shoulders!

After the head dries, you can begin to build out the shoulders with your wire. I like to use a thinner wire so that I can manipulate it easier, something like 18-20 gauge. Use your pliers to take some of the stress off of your hands so that you can shape it around the neck and build out the shoulders. Leave a hoop on each shoulder so that you can attach the arms later with string. (shown in second to last pic)

Wrap masking tape around the wire so that you can cover it with clay, leave the hoops at the end exposed so you can put the arms onto it.

Step 7: It's All About the Details!

Here I am picking the head back up to work on some of the features of the puppet. I let the head sit for a little bit so that it could begin to dry. It makes it easier to work up your piece in layers so that you can sculpt without disturbing the bottom layer. You can thin out paperclay with a little bit of water to get your details while it is still pliable. In the last pic, I am using a damp brush to smooth out the lips of the puppet.

Cover the part of the shoulders that you wrapped with masking tape with clay. Set this aside to dry again.

Step 8: Sand Away!

Sand your pieces down to get them to the level of smoothness that you'd like. I like to use a 500 grit sand paper to get things nice and smooth. You can choose which ever grit your would like for your results. The higher the number on the grit of the sandpaper, the smoother your piece will turn out.

Step 9: Strings Attached!

Take your thread and wrap it around the top of the skewers that you sculpted your hands on. Tie and knot them around the indent that you cut a few steps back and glue them in place when your knot is tied securely.

Take the other end of the string and tie it tight onto the hoop on the shoulder of the puppet for each side.

Step 10: More Hand Work

Take a piece of thread and thread it through the hole in the hand and the bead on the other side of it. Take the thread and pull it back through the hole on the hand. The bead will keep the thread from going through the other side of the hand.

Repeat the process on the other side of the hand and then take the other end of the thread and tie them to the indent on the top of the other set of sticks.

Step 11: In Living Color!

Paint all the pieces once they are dry. Put a sealant onto your piece to protect the paint layers from chipping

Step 12: Put Some Clothes on Girl!

Take a square of fabric and size it up with the puppet to see how much you want to use for the outfit. You can either make sleeves and a fitted top with a skirt or you could take the easy way out and make a cloak like I did. This is up to you!

Step 13: How Do You Like My Hair?

Here I am using lambswool for the hair. I used Aleene's Tacky glue and apply it to the head with another skewer.

Step 14: How You Like Me Now?

And she is all done! I took a piece of lace to make a hat for her.

See more of my work at Melandolly.com, catch updates on

my Instagram pageand here is a link to my shop!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
How to Create a Simple Stick Puppet: Hello everyone! I am going to show you all how I created this puppet. I was inspired by my Wayang Golek puppets that I have in my collection which are wooden puppets traditionally performed with in West Java, Indonesia.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Card Stock Trainer Airplane [STEM Plane]

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Card Stock Trainer Airplane [STEM Plane]: This easy-to-build airplane includes two wing shapes in the plans. Additional wings can be created and subjected to testing. The fuselage design allows wings to be replaced effortlessly.
A 1/2" diameter vinyl thread protector (or thread cap) is…

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Wind-Up Paper ButterFLY

Delicate! Enchanting! Magical!

This wind-up paper butterfly will flutter into your heart and make you want to create more! It is a perfect addition to a card or invitation, or can be placed in a book for a neat surprise. This butterfly doesn't take long to make and can be created in your own unique way to show off your style.

In this Instructable I will show you how to create this fluttering wind-up paper butterfly.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Plywood Contest

Backyard Contest

First Time Author Contest

Step 1: Materials

Coloured Paper, I used origami craft paper but cardstock or construction paper should do just fine.

20 gauge wire

Small silicone rubber bands, I found mine in the hair aisle

Needle-nose pliers

Scissors

Tape

Skewer

Ruler

Pencil crayons or markers

Step 2: Measure and Cut the Wire

Cut one piece of wire to be 4 inches long. This will be used for the top wings.

Cut a second piece of wire 5 1/2 inches long. This be will be used for the bottom wings.

Step 3: Bend the Long Wire

Find the centre of the longer wire and wrap it around the skewer to form a loop. Keep the loop horizontal and bend the tails of the wire down so they are vertical. Next, use the needle-nose pliers to bend each tail inwards to form a hook. These hooks will hold the rubber band.

Step 4: Bend the Short Wire

Find the centre of the shorter wire and wrap it around the skewer. This time, do not form a loop. Instead, pinch the wire to form a circle. Bend the tails of the wire outward to form the structure of the wings.

Step 5: Assemble the Body of the Butterfly

Loop the rubber band around the top of the wings and set it in the centre. Pull the rubber band through the loop of the bottom wire (pulling the top wire circle through the loop as well) and attach it to the hooks.

This step may feel a little finicky, but you can do it!

Step 6: Cut Out the Butterfly

Take your piece of paper and fold it in half. Draw on a top wing and a bottom wing. Create any shape you'd like. They don't have to be perfect!

Cut out the wings through both sides of the paper to create two equal top wings and two equal bottom wings.

Step 7: Draw the Wings

Using a black pencil crayon (or coloured pencil of your choice), draw lines onto the wings in your desired design.

Next, use accent colours (I used a deep yellow, light orange and white) to add shading and highlights for definition and detail.

Step 8: Assemble the Butterfly

Tape each wing to the body of the butterfly. The top wire tails get taped to the top edge of the upper wings. And the bottom wires get taped to the inner edge of the bottom wings. You should now have what looks like a butterfly! How exciting!

Step 9: Wind It Up

Hold the body of the butterfly with one hand and use your forefinger on your other hand to turn the top wings, winding up the rubber band.

It will take about 45-50 rotations to get it tight.

But be careful! If you over-wind it the rubber band might snap or the wire might bend.

Step 10: Insert Into Card or Book

Gently place the wound-up butterfly into a card or book. Closing the book after placing the butterfly.

Whoever opens it will get a fluttering surprise!

Thanks for reading this Instructable on how to create a Wind-Up Paper ButterFLY. Let me know in the comments below who you surprised with this enchanting butterfly.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Wind-Up Paper ButterFLY: Delicate! Enchanting! Magical!This wind-up paper butterfly will flutter into your heart and make you want to create more! It is a perfect addition to a card or invitation, or can be placed in a book for a neat surprise. This butterfly doesn't take l...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Upcycled Denim Feathers

Denim feathers! Aren't these fantastic? They're really fun to make, can be used in a zillion different ways, and are a great way upcycle old denim jeans or jackets. Let's get making!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Backyard Contest

Teach With Tinkercad Contest

First Time Author Contest

Supplies

Old denim, preferably in a couple different colors

Heavy string or twine - like cotton baker's twine

Pins

Seam ripper

Scissors or rotary cutter & ruler

Rubber glove (not vinyl)

Sewing Machine

Step 1: Cut Denim and Center Twine

Note** When cutting denim, make sure you cut in alignment with the grain of the threads. It's important that your cuts be straight with the grain. You'll see why this is so important in the step below.

Also, if you make these with the fabric oriented in one direction, you'll get blue feathers, the other, white. Pull out a few threads from the edge of the fabric to figure out which orientation you want.

Pulling the warp threads, or blue ones, your resulting feather will be white. Alternatively, pulling the weft threads, or white ones, results in a blue feather. I find it easier to pull the blue/warp threads. The white/weft ones are usually tighter and require a bit more work.

Cut your denim into 1-1/2" wide strips, then cut those strips into 3-5" lengths, depending on how long you want your finished feathers to be.

Measure twine to be about 2" longer than the denim strip.

Step 2: Sew Twine in Place

Using a very narrow zigzag stitch and short stitch length, sew the twine down the center of the denim strip. Make sure the twine lines up with the grain of the threads, otherwise the "unraveling" step will be very difficult.

Step 3: Trim to Feather Shape

Cut the corners off of your denim strip, in a rough "feather" shape.

Step 4: Pull Threads

Pull away the threads going the length of the feather. My preferred technique is to pull from the top, separating the thread with a pin or seam ripper, then using a gloved hand, pull the threads out. The rubber glove really helps maintain a grip on the rather tightly woven threads, and helps reduce fatigue of your fingers.

Repeat on the other side of the feather.

Trim around the base of the feather, if desired. If you want your finished feather to have a straighter, more defined edge, carefully trim that too.

Snip off end of twine.

Step 5: Let's Use Our Feathers!

Your fantastic feathers can be used to:

Adorn a jeans or a jean jacket

Make feathered earrings -- I added some crystal beads

Decorate a gift box

Make a fancy bookmark

Step 6: Tips and Tricks

Cleaning. You shouldn't machine wash anything that uses these feathers, as they curl up and generally get very ratty after machine washing. Best to remove them before washing, or spot clean. Dry cleaning might also work, I just haven't tried it.

Troubleshooting an out-of-alignment feather: Have a seam ripper handy and use it to pull out the threads and snap them off where they cross the center seam. If you can avoid this problem altogether, best to do so.

If you want the feathers to have a naturalistic "curve," still cut them straight with the weave, you can curve them when you apply to your finished project.

These can also be made with other types of tightly woven fabric or other colors of denim. Go crazy!

Thanks for the love, friends. I also have a fun website, if you want more stuff, check it out! www.TamaraCentral.com

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Denim feathers! Aren't these fantastic? They're really fun to make, can be used in a zillion different ways, and are a great way upcycle old denim jeans or jackets. Let's get making!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: No-sew Sock Puppet With Recycled Martials

If you are done with wearing your socks on your feet, then It's time to wear them on your hand. That might seem weird, but when it comes to art you can use whatever material you like to create an artwork. In this instructable we will make a no-sew sock puppet whose parts are entirely made of reclaimed materials from home, so let's get started.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Fiber Arts Challenge

Remote Control Contest

Fandom Contest

Supplies

We will need:

A pair of socks.

A pringles can.

Thin cardboard sheet.

Red cardboard from a flip calendar.

Book cover with a white background.

A strap of cloth.

Glue gun.

Pencil.

Black marker.

Ruler.

Scissors.

Step 1: Sketching the Mouth

To make the puppet we need first to determine the size of the mouth. It has to be a little bit bigger than your four fingers size, after that you should:

Mark the length you determined.

Draw a semicircle that connects the marks.

Draw a parallel straight line to the base of the semicircle.

Draw another opposite semicircle that is a bit bigger than the first one.

Step 2: Sketching the Mouth

After we drew the mouth imprecisely, we can use a compass to redraw the sketch with more defined curves.

Step 3: Cutting Out the Mouth

Use scissors to cut out the mouth, then with a ruler and a pencil redraw the lines so it would be easier to bend.

Step 4: Inside the Mouth

To make the inside of the mouth:

Put the inner thin cardboard mouth on the red cardboard.

Trace the shape with a pencil.

Cut out the red shape.

Minimize it so it would fit better in the mouth later.

Step 5: Cutting the Head

To make the head, use an empty pringles can and cut through it vertically till you reach your desired height of the head, then cut horizontally.

Step 6: Fingers Place

In order to be able to fit your hand into the puppet, you have to cut two opposite semicircles in the can that can fit your fingers, and to make sure they are perfectly aligned use the ruler to determine where to cut.

Step 7: Covering With the Sock

After you use a glue gun to stick the head and the mouth together, now put it inside the sock, but before that:

Let the big and pinky toe out and push the other fingers inside.

Put a strap of cloth in the sock and make sure they stuff the ears.

Step 8: Gluing the Mouth

Now use a glue gun to fix the sock with the inner and the outer mouth as shown.

Step 9: Adding the Details

For the nose, cut a red small triangle from that book cover

For the uvula, draw around it with a black marker.

For the fangs, cut two thin triangles and glue the with the glue gun.

Step 10: More Details

As you see I've made small eyes then felt they are not looking good, so I cut bigger circles from the book cover and drew big eye pupils then glued them on the face. I also cut a thin strap from the cover and glued it to make the teeth.

Step 11: Whiskers and Ears

For the whiskers, draw them with the marker.

For the ears, cut two pink half ovals from the cover and glue them.

After you're done wear the other pair of socks in your hand to cover it, as the puppet is short.

Step 12: We Are Done

Now we can wear the socks in our hands and enjoy pretending we're having a conversation with them, I mean the no-sew sock puppet.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
No-sew Sock Puppet With Recycled Martials

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
No-sew Sock Puppet With Recycled Martials : If you are done with wearing your socks on your feet, then It's time to wear them on your hand. That might seem weird, but when it comes to art you can use whatever material you like to create an artwork.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Roly-poly, Toilet Paper Core Crafts

This movie is instruction of crafting Roly-poly using the core of toilet paper roll.

Time required: 20~30min

Difficulty: Elementary school kids (Kindergarten kids can made it with a little help)

1 Person Made This Project!

Recommendations

First Time Author Contest

Meatless Challenge

Backyard Contest

Supplies

Material

Hand tools:

Double side tape (Strong type)

Glue stick

Scissors

Step 1: Apply Glue to the Core

Apply glue to core side (it is easier than apply to paper side).

Please apply evenly.

Paste template to the core.

Step 3: Cut Black Triangles and Stick Tape

Cut off the 4 black triangles. (Don't cut gray area yet!).

Stick double-sided tape that match the length to the notch you made in previous step

Step 5: Make a Crease

Fold along the dotted line. (Slight crease is enough)

And wrap the bottom part to the other side.

Step 7: Assembly

1. Assembly the head. The head parts is different shape from others. Assemble it according to the doted line mark.

2. Assemble the back parts from bottom side. Align it with the black triangle.

3. Repeat the assembly of other back parts.

Step 8: Legs

1. Cut the leg parts and stick the double sided tape on the center.

2. Form the shape as photo.

3. Assembly to the body.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
This movie is instruction of crafting Roly-poly using the core of toilet paper roll. Time required: 20~30min Difficulty: Elementary school kids (Kindergarten kids can made it with a little help) 1 Person Made This Project! Material Hand tools: Double side tape (Strong type) Glue stick Scissors Apply glue to core side (it is easier than apply to paper side).

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Scissor Arm Grabber Toy

I wish I had one of these when I was a kid, could have done a lot of mischief with it!

Let's make an extendable scissor arm toy, or reach-out grabber, for your kids.

I used a laser cutter for the pieces, but you can use the templates to cut it with a scroll saw, CNC router, or even a jig saw.

Supplies

1/4" Pywood

3/8" Dowel rod

Wood glue

Laser Cutter, Scroll Saw, CNC, or Jig Saw

Sander

3/8" Drill

Step 1: Cut the Pieces

Cut the required pieces from 1/4" plywood. The svg files are attached. You will need:

4 handles

2 handle spacers

4 grabbers

2 grabber spacers

8 washers

4 dowel pieces 3/8" diameter by 1-1/2" long.

Step 2: Parts Assembly

Glue up the two handles as three stacked layers: handle - handle spacer - handle.

It helps aligning the three pieces if you insert dowels through the two pivot holes in the handles.

Glue the two grabbers as three stacked layers: grabber - grabber spacer - grabber.

By doubling up the handle and grabbers and using spacers the scissor arm toy will be stronger.

Step 3: Cleaning and Sanding

Since I used a laser cutter I ended up with black edges on each piece. So after glueing the handles and grabbers I used a sander to clean up the edges.

Glue-up the dowel pegs that make the joints/pivots: washer - dowel. You will need 4 of these. Sand and clean the edges.

Step 4: Final Assembly

Now assemble the complete scissor arm as shown, using the dowel pegs, handles, and grabbers. Pay attention to how you layer the pieces! Don't glue washers to the top layer yet. Test the scissor arm to make sure it functions as intended.

Now glue on the top washers to the top of the four dowels. You may also glue them to the adjoining handle/grabber for added stability. Before the glue dries make sure the scissor arm still moves, that is: Don't glue together the wrong pieces! Cut/sand the dowel tops flush with the washers, round over any sharp edges, and clean up for finishing. The last picture shows the layering of the parts.

Step 5: Play!

Give the scissor arm grabber to your 5 year old kid/grand kid and enjoy the show! Keep your pets out of the way!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Tinkercad to Fusion 360 Challenge

Chocolate Challenge

Digital Fabrication Student Design Challenge

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Scissor Arm Grabber Toy: I wish I had one of these when I was a kid, could have done a lot of mischief with it!Let's make an extendable scissor arm toy, or reach-out grabber, for your kids.I used a laser cutter for the pieces, but you can use the templates to cut it with a ...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
There are variations in 2 stroke design. The diagram is the same as the display model is a piston port, the Gif is a reed valve version. There is also a rotary valve version. Their operation is very similar.

In a four-stroke engine, each of the four essential steps of the power-producing cycle is given its own piston stroke:

1) Compression

2) Power

3) Exhaust

4) Intake

A 2 stroke engine performs all the same steps but in just two piston strokes. The simplest 2 stroke engines do this by using the crankcase and the underside of the moving piston as a fresh charge pump.

As the two-stroke piston rises on compression, its underside pulls a partial vacuum in the crankcase. An intake port opens, allowing air to rush into the crankcase through a carburettor.

As the piston nears Top Dead Center, a spark fires the compressed mixture. As in a four-stroke, the mixture burns and its chemical energy becomes heat energy, raising the pressure of the burned mixture to hundreds of psi. This pressure drives the piston down the bore, rotating the crankshaft.

As the piston continues down the bore, it begins to expose an exhaust port in the cylinder wall. As spent combustion gas rushes out through this port, the descending piston is simultaneously compressing the fuel-air mixture trapped beneath it in the crankcase.

As the piston descends more, it begins to expose two or more transfer ports, which are connected to the crankcase by short ducts. As the pressure in the cylinder is now low and pressure in the crankcase higher, the fresh charge from the crankcase rushes into the cylinder through transfer ports. These ports are shaped and aimed to minimize the direct loss of fresh charge to the exhaust port. Even in the best designs, there is some loss. This process of filling the cylinder while also pushing leftover exhaust gas out the exhaust port is called "scavenging."

While the piston is near Bottom Dead Center, the mixture continues to move from the crankcase, up through the transfer ports, and into the cylinder.

As the piston rises, it first covers the transfer ports, and then the exhaust port the mixture is compressed and the cycle starts again.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
2D Two Stroke Engine Display and Fidget Toy

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
2D Two Stroke Engine Display and Fidget Toy: The 2 stroke engine can be difficult to understand how it works, for such a simple device there is a lot going on, so this display project is designed to help you get your head around it.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: How Do I Make a Perfect Mandala? / Cómo Hago Yo Mandalas Perfectos?

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Envision the Future of the Lift Truck Student Design Contest

Sandwich Speed Challenge

Wearables Challenge

Supplies

Line art markers

Compass

Protractor

Ruler

Paper

Pencil

Grid

Rotuladores de line art

Compás

Transportador de ángulos

Regla

Papel

Lápiz

Cuadrícula

Step 1: Practice

Take a grid and make two lines parallel and marks as shown in the picture.

Now join the marks forming a petal and repeat it to get used to it.

Coge una cuadrícula y haz dos líneas paralelas y marcas como se muestra en la imagen.

Ahora une las marcas formando un pétalo y repítelo para acostumbrarte.

Step 2: More Practice

Step 3: Decorate

Step 4: Start

Find the center of the paper by making a cross joining the corners.

Place the protractor in the center and coinciding with one of the lines, mark all the angles that have a large line.

Erase the excess line and join all the marks passing through the center.

Encuentra el centro del papel haciendo una cruz que una las esquinas.

Coloca el transportador en el centro y coincidiendo con una de las líneas, marca todos los ángulos que tengan una línea grande.

Borra la línea sobrante y une todas las marcas que pasan por el centro.

Step 5: Compass

Make circles with the compass, while you are drawing you can make as many as you need.

Go over the circle closest to the center with a marker on the compass.

You can first make the half circles with the pencil and then go over them with the marker.

Haz círculos con el compás, mientras dibujas puedes hacer tantos como necesites.

Repasa el círculo más cercano al centro con un rotulador en el compás.

Puedes hacer primero los medios círculos con el lápiz y luego repasarlos con el marcador.

Step 6: Color the Center

Step 7: Petalos

Step 8: Keep Going

Step 9:

Step 10: A Little More

Step 11: Finnising

Erase the pencil marks and you are done.

I made this mandala on a white background so that the pencil could be seen well in the photos, but to do it with watercolor backgrounds you must first paint the background and when it dries make the mandala.

Borra las marcas de lápiz y ya está.

Yo hice este mandala sobre un fondo blanco para que se viera bien el lápiz en las fotos, pero para hacerlo con fondos de acuarela debes pintar primero el fondo y cuando se seque hacer el mandala.

Step 12: Other Desings

Aren't they beautiful?

Thanks for reading :)

¿No son preciosas?

Gracias por leer :)

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How Do I Make a Perfect Mandala? / Cómo Hago Yo Mandalas Perfectos?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
How Do I Make a Perfect Mandala? / Cómo Hago Yo Mandalas Perfectos?: Hello! welcome back to another tutorial. If you know me you know that I make mandalas, so here I'm going to explain the most secret tricks to make them perfect or almost perfect.

# data[].attributes.headline
3D Printed Battletop With Launcher and Ripcord

# data[].attributes.subject
3D Printed Battletop With Launcher and Ripcord

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: 3D Printed Battletop With Launcher and Ripcord

In a previous Instructable I showed how to make Beyblade Micros with paper and a 3D printed gear, see here. In this Instructable I have upgraded the paper Beyblade Micros to a fully 3D printed battletop of my own design. This time around the launcher and ripcord are included! Over the next several steps of this Instructable I will show how to put together my 3D printed battletop and how to launch it. So fire up the 3D printer and grab some plastic nippers because we're making some epic battletops!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

First Time Author Contest

Toys and Games Contest

Make It Modular: Student Design Challenge

Supplies

Material List:

7/16 washer. You will need one for each battletop you print.

3D print of Dragon_Spinner's Battletop. You can download the STL file for free at these links:

Tinkercad: LINK

MyMiniFactory: LINK

(Optional) Nail polish. Nail polish is used to decorate the washer.

Tool List:

Sandpaper. I used 800 grit for this project.

Superglue. I included this due to the varying washer size. Washer's are usually slightly larger or smaller than advertised.

Hobby knife. Used for removing supports and for making minor adjustments to the printed parts.

Plastic nippers. Used to remove supports from printed parts.

*3D printer. I used an Ender 3 for this project.

*Notes: If you don't have a 3D printer check with your local library, makerspace, or university. Where I live the makerspace and university charge about $5 per hour of printing. My local library offers free 3D printing for objects that only take an hour or less to complete. One battletop with launcher and ripcord should take about an hour to print. Another option would be to use an online service like Shapeways.

Step 1: Print and Prepare Parts

Once you've downloaded the STL file from the Supplies section upload it into your favorite slicer. I use Cura for slicing my STLs.

Here are the settings I used:

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Wall Line Count: 2

Infill Density: 20%

Infill Pattern: Try-Hexagon

Print Speed: 90mm/s

Generate Supports: yes

Support Placement: Everywhere

I have also printed my battletop on a Makerbot and a Prusa printer. Whatever machine or slicer you use just make sure to turn on supports and the battletop with its launcher and ripcord should successfully print.

Once the print is complete carefully remove the pieces from the print bed. If you used adhesive on your print bed make sure to clean it off the printed pieces before proceeding. Take a pair of plastic nippers and remove all the supports from the battletop. Use the hobby knife to remove the supports from the gear and launcher. Note: make sure to carefully remove the supports from the launcher! If the holes where the ripcord is inserted breaks you will not be able to launch your battletop. Finally lightly sand the teeth of the ripcord with 800 grit sandpaper.

Step 2: Assemble Battletop

Before assembling the battletop you may want to paint the washer with a nail polish of your choice. Painting the washer is optional and only for decoration.

Take a washer and press it into the recess at the top of your battletop. If the washer doesn't snap in take a hobby knife and carefully scrape around the inner wall of at the top of the battletop. If the washer falls out after snapping it into the top recess of your battletop use some superglue to secure it.

Snap the gear into hole at the top of the battletop. Make sure the gear is fully snapped in. There should only be about a 2mm gap between the spinning top and the launcher. It may be helpful to scrape out the hole with a hobby knife before attempting to press in the gear.

Step 3: Launching the Battletop

Rotate the launcher so cylinder at it's center is facing you. Rotate the battletop upside down and fit the gear's hole over the launcher's cylinder. Slide the ripcord into the holes on the side of the launcher. Make sure the ripcord's teeth are oriented so they align with the gear's teeth. Slide the ripcord into the launcher until the grip end touches the launcher. Rotate the launcher so the tip of the battletop faces the surface you want to spin it on. The ripcord and gear will hold the top in the launcher. Give a good pull on the ripcord and your top will be released from the launcher and start spinning.

Tip: If the ripcord feels tight sand it's teeth down again with some sandpaper.

You can choose the direction your battletop spins by changing the orientation of the launcher and ripcord. If you insert the ripcord on the flat side of the launcher it will spin right. If you insert the ripcord on the side of the launcher with the angled edges it will spin left. See the last two photos for examples.

Step 4: Time to Battle!

The battletop can be used on multiple surfaces:

Bucket lids

Beyblade stadiums

Beigoma stadiums.

To make a beigoma stadium stretch canvas or a tarp over a large paint bucket. Secure the material with rope and lightly press the surface down until concave.

The battletop's launcher and ripcord are compatible with Hasbro's Beyblade Micros series. You can swap launchers and ripcords between the battletop and Beyblade Micros.

Step 5: In Case of Breakage

Breakage with the ripcord and launcher may happen after 40 or so launches. You can access the replacement part file here: LINK

Step 6: Conclusion

The Dragon_Spinner's Battletop is open source and encourages remixes. If you make a remix of the battletop I would love to see it. If you have any question leave a comment and I will respond ASAP.

Happy making!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
3D Printed Battletop With Launcher and Ripcord

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
3D Printed Battletop With Launcher and Ripcord: In a previous Instructable I showed how to make Beyblade Micros with paper and a 3D printed gear, see here. In this Instructable I have upgraded the paper Beyblade Micros to a fully 3D printed battletop of my own design. This time around the launche...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: French Link Stitch Bookbinding

Hello! In this tutorial im going to teach you how to make a notebook with a french link stitch bookbinding technique. Is a really beautiful and practical technique as it let the page open completely :) Ideal for artists!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Pie Challenge

Make it Glow Contest

Toys and Games Contest

Supplies

I leave you the measurements of the materials in case you want to do it the same as mine, but feel free to adjust the materials and measurements to make your on version of this notebook.
My measurements are in centimeters. Materials:

1. 2 sheets of color Paper (for the front and back cover) / 29.5cm x 21.5cm

2. 2 sheets of color paper (for the endpages, aka endpaper) / 34.5cm x 25cm

3. 21 sheets of paper (for the interior pages) / 34.5cm x 25cm

4. 2 Cardboards or mountboard for the cover / 25.5cm x 17.5cm

5. Glue

6. Linen thread

Tools:

1. Needle

2. Pencil

3. Ruller

4. Paintbrush

5. Scissors

6. Craft knife (optional)

Step 1: Making the Front and Back Cover

Take the paper you selected for your front and back cover, the cardboard, glue and a scissor or craft knife.

1. Spray the glue all over the cardboard, use a brush to make it easier.

2. Paste the cardboard in the middle of the paper.

3. Cut the edges as shown in the picture. 4 straight lines and 4 diagonal lines.

4. In my case i used a craft knife as shown in picture.

5. Glue the edges to the cardboard, first the ones with straight lines and the diagonal ones.

6. Once you glue it should look like shown in picture.

7. Place the cover underneath a heavy flat object (like books in my case) for a couple of hours.

8. Repeat the same step with the other cardboard to have the two covers.

9. Set aside for later use.

Step 2: Page Set Up (Making Signatures)

A Signature is a set of pages nested inside one another the creates one small section of the notebook.

1. Take your sheets of paper for the interior.

2. Fold them in half one by one.

3. Stack them in groups of 3 to 7 pages.

4. The number of pages in a group is up to you, in my case, since I have thick paper i only stack them in groups of three.

5. Once you finish it should look like shown in picture.

6. Do this same step with the two sheets of paper for the endpages, but don't stack them.

Step 3: Measuring and Piercing Holes in the Signatures

1.Pile the signatures and endpages as shown in picture. The measurements I issued are written in the image, feel free to make any measurements you want or use mine. Once you have decided on the measurements, mark them with a pencil, extend your marks down along the spine of each signature. This ensures all holes will be properly aligned.

2&3. Use a very large needle to poke through each mark, directly on the spine. Be sure the pages are properly aligned as you do this.

4. To estimate how much thread to use string it along the length of your notebook for as many times you have signatures.

Step 4: Binding the Pages Part 1

Now we're ready to sew.
Because this part has to be really visually oriented, follow the steps written in the images. Decided to divide the binding in 3 parts for an easier way to follow the steps.

Step 5: Binding the Pages Part 2

Because this part has to be really visually oriented, follow the steps written in the images. Decided to divide the binding in 3 parts for an easier way to follow the steps.

Step 6: Binding the Pages Part 3

Because this part has to be really visually oriented, follow the steps written in the images. Decided to divide the binding in 3 parts for an easier way to follow the steps.

Step 7: Glueing the Cover to the Notebook

1&2. Once you're done binding, take the glue and spray it all over the endpages (one at a time).

3,4&5. Take one cover and align them with the endpage that has glue, then paste it really carefully. Do the same with the other side.

6. Place the notebook underneath a heavy flat object (like books in my case) for a couple of hours. And you're done!

Step 8: Enjoy Your New Notebook :)

Once you finish and let it dry completely, you can start using your new notebook right away!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
French Link Stitch Bookbinding: Hello! In this tutorial im going to teach you how to make a notebook with a french link stitch bookbinding technique. Is a really beautiful and practical technique as it let the page open completely :) Ideal for artists!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Discover recipes, home ideas, style inspiration and other ideas to try.

# data[].attributes.body
This was an independent project completed from home, but it was too cool not to include!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Tailless Delta & Stndrd. Config. Mechanical Pencil Gliders

Welcome! To make these gliders, you'll need fine motor skills, attention to detail, and patience. If you're new to making flying things, the guidance of someone who knows about aircraft and flight will come in handy, especially when it comes to testing and trimming the gliders.

If you are a teacher and plan to use these for a class project, you may want to have students work in pairs or small groups. Note that the tailless delta is easier to build than the other. For fun and some additional learning, I recommend a distance competition, a control competition (such as flying through a ring at a certain distance), or a combination of the two.

Here are some possible prompts for builders to answer.

CALCULATIONS

What is the mass of each glider?

What is the wing span of each? (Once the glider is constructed, measure a straight line from tip to tip.)

What is the wing area of each? (As with the wing span, you should be referring to a planform.)

Using the mass and wing area, calculate the wing loading of each glider.

COMPARISON

Which design seems to have more yaw stability? What might account for this?

Which seems to have more roll stability? What might account for this?

Which seems to have a better glide slope?

If you were a pilot, and these were full scale aircraft, which would you rather fly? Explain.

CREATION

What modification do you plan to implement, and on which glider? What do you hope the modification will do for the glider?

If designing something entirely new, what considerations are foremost in your mind?

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Anything Goes Contest 2021

Supplies

1. Sheets of 8.5" x 11" card stock; 65 lb. or 180 gsm

2. Plastic mechanical pencils with a clip on the main tube; 15 cm long (more information below)

3. Pencil tip erasers

4. Scissors

5. Glue stick

6. Metal ruler and hobby knife (not entirely necessary, but helpful)

7. Clear adhesive tape; 2 cm wide

Step 1: Prepare Pencil

Find a mechanical pencil, preferably one that has a broken spring or is just plain worn out. It should measure 15 cm long, have a hexagonal shape, be made of light plastic, and have a pocket clip adjoined to the main tube. OfficeMax and Bic are two brands that I used, and I preferred the Bic because it seemed a touch lighter.

Remove the eraser and graphite. Take out the rod, which will probably require removing the tip of the pencil and making a cut to free a small rubber stopper. Remove the spring, and put the cap back on. Cover the other end with a pencil eraser.

Step 2: Delta-Print Plans & Cut Out Shapes

Print the plans onto a sheet of card stock. Use 65 lb. card stock, or 180 gsm. Gluing two sheets of lighter material together, such as some decent quality 90 gsm paper, could work (and thank you codemind).

Carefully cut out the shapes. If you plan to use a hobby knife, make sure it's very sharp. Younger builders should get permission from an adult before using a hobby knife.

Step 3: Glue & Make Creases

Before using your glue stick, double check that you're working on the correct side of the card stock piece. Applying a thin and consistent layer of glue, and attach the brace piece to the top of the main wing. Use a straightedge to start creases on all of the dotted lines. Start with the center line. In so doing, you will make the wing dihedral. The wingtips should rest about 5 degrees above horizontal.

Raise the interior elevons by about 5 degrees. Raise the slim outer elevons by just a few degrees. Carefully check for symmetry of the left and right sides.

Step 4: Finish Wing

Increase the angles at the wing tips to 90 degrees, thereby defining the vertical stabilizers / winglets. Now, use your thumb and fingertips to gently pinch along the leading edge to curl the card stock down slightly. Repeat several times, working incrementally, until the card stock holds the shape.

Before sliding the wing into place, check that the notch at the forward point of the wing is wide enough. Depending on the brand of pencil you're using, the clip may be too wide and you'll need to widen the notch.

Step 5: Secure Wing to Pencil

Get a strip of tape measuring 8 cm and make a reference mark in the middle. Find the point on the bottom of the fuselage (the pencil) that is 7 cm back from the very front of the wing. This is as far forward as the strip of tape will reach. Carefully adhere the tape to the fuselage (sticking to the sides) and then the bottom of the wings. Avoid pulling down on the wings while doing this.

Step 6: Standard Config.-Print, Cut Out Shapes, & Make Creases

As you will quickly notice, this standard configuration glider (that is, having a tail at the aft end) is more complex to build. Expect to spend 40 to 60 minutes working on it.

Cut out the shapes carefully, and then start creases on the dotted lines. The elevator (at the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer) should be raised about 8 degrees. The crease at center line of the wing and wing brace can be very mild, for now.

Step 7: Fuselage & Fin Work

Glue the long narrow fuselage strip to the top of main piece. Next, glue the shorter strip, which is 8.5 cm long, to the bottom of the tail boom. This one should end 1 cm before the trailing edge of the stabilizer.

Glue the shortest and narrowest strip across the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer. It crosses over the strip that was attached previously, and is flush with the end of it.

Bend the tabs at the bottom of the two vertical stabilizer pieces to 90-degree angles. Apply glue to one of the vertical stabilizers (i.e. fins), but not to the bottom tab. Unite it the two halves. After the glue has set for a couple minutes, apply glue to the tabs and attach the stabilizer to the tail of the glider. Use the reference lines.

Step 8: Wing Work

Glue the wing brace to the top of the wing and let the glue set for a minute. Re-establish the crease on the center line. The wing tips should be about 7 degrees above horizontal.

Apply glue to the wing roots. Carefully attach the wing. Make sure it is perpendicular to the fuselage.

Cut the four short black lines near the center. Now give the wings a slight undercamber by repeatedly pinching along the leading and trailing edges. Go slowly and check the left and right often for symmetry. A reference curve is in the plans.

Step 9: Secure Main Piece to Pencil

Slide the wing into place on the pencil. Get a strip of adhesive tape measuring 7 cm. Find the point on the bottom of the fuselage (the pencil) that is 5 mm back from the leading edge of the wing, and mark it. This is as far forward as the tape will reach. Adhere the tape to the pencil (stick to the sides) and the bottom of the wings. Lastly, get a 2.5 cm strip of tape and attach it to the top of the fuselage, a few millimeters in front of the vertical stabilizer. Pinch the tape to the sides. Be careful not to bend the tail boom.

Step 10: Test Flights and Trimming

Trimming refers to small adjustments of an aircraft's control surfaces and/or weight distribution in order to achieve a desired flight path.

If possible, do the test flights and trimming indoors. Throw the gliders gently and level. It's unlikely that they are tail heavy, but you'll notice it pretty quickly if they are. A tail heavy aircraft flits and flops through the air, and tends to crash quickly and violently. If your glider is flying pretty stable flight but is descending quicker than you'd like, increase the deflection of the elevons or elevators a tiny amount. You can also experiment with shifting the center of gravity back, either by pushing the eraser further onto the pencil or by swapping it out for a used eraser.

A tendency to roll left or right is most likely a result of asymmetrical wings. Inspect the wings meticulously and try to correct any inconsistencies. If the standard configuration glider is gently turning to the right or left with just a slight roll, you can address that with the rudder. With the delta, you should be able to counteract the tendency with adjustments to the outer elevons. You could also warp the trailing edges of the stabilizers a small amount, like tiny rudders. For the sake of brevity, I'm not offering a full explanation of how to adjust rudders and elevons. Maybe you can support your local library by checking out a book on the basics of flight.

Lastly, don't forget to have fun! I hope they fly well for you. If they don't, keep in mind that everyone who ever made a glider has gone through the same frustration you're feeling. Keep at it, and you will get better!

Step 11: Video [optional]

If you are a student, do not watch this! No, seriously, you shouldn't. Preserve your objectivity for testing and comparison of the two gliders.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Tailless Delta & Stndrd. Config. Mechanical Pencil Gliders

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Tailless Delta & Stndrd. Config. Mechanical Pencil Gliders: Welcome! To make these gliders, you'll need fine motor skills, attention to detail, and patience. If you're new to making flying things, the guidance of someone who knows about aircraft and flight will come in handy, especially when it comes to test...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: 3D Printed Spirographs

Spirographs are a toy which originated in the 1800s. I wanted to prepare a fun, hands-on activity for a middle school math club as part of my job as Branham High School math club activities director and spirographs seemed like the perfect way to accomplish this. I used Fusion 360's parametric design feature to easily produce labeled spirograph wheels with different numbers of teeth. I then 3D printed a large number of these wheels and started spiraling!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Anything Goes Contest 2021

Supplies

Step 1: Assembling Desired Files

I've attached two Fusion360 files: one for the inner wheel and one for the outer. I've also attached a large number of STLs with different wheel sizes. If you'd like to have other sizes start by downloading the two Fusion 360 files and follow the next step. Otherwise, skip to step 3.

Step 2: Modifying Fusion360

First, click the modify drop down menu then the change parameters option. Change the parameter teethNum to the number of teeth you want on your gear. This will likely cause an error. When it does, right click the first extrusion in the timeline and select edit feature. Deselect all faces then select only the center face for the inner wheel or everything outside the the inner circle for the outer wheel. The label text will need to be adjusted manually since parameters can't be used in text. In the timeline right click the last sketch then select edit feature. Double click the text and change the text label to the same value as teethNum. If you choose a small enough gear number you may need to delete the circle in the center if it intersects with the other circles. The center circle is mostly unimportant since it will just draw a circle. It can be deleted by right clicking the second sketch in the timeline, selecting edit feature, then selecting the center circle and pressing delete. The model should then be ready for export. Right click the body in the bodies menu and select save as mesh.

Step 3: Slicing

The wheels will work in their original sizes, but I found they work best scaled by 150%. I was able to fit 4-5 parts on each print by nesting them inside each other. The print shouldn't require a raft unless your adhesion is poor. No supports are needed.

Step 4: Math!

I created a simulation in Desmos - https://www.desmos.com/calculator/hgaf7wualt

In Desmos, change the variable s to the number of teeth in the inner gear and R to the number of teeth in the outer gear. The math to make this graph isn't very relevant to drawing spirals, but I think it will impress the middle school students!

Here's some math relevant to drawing these:

let R = the number of teeth in the large gear and r = the number of teeth in the small gear

The equation to calculate the number of petals (the protruding curves on the outside of the spiral) is the least common multiple (LCM) of the outer and inner gear numbers (R and r) divided by the inner gear number (r). Written as an equation it is LCM(R, r)/r.

Example 1:

Using an inner gear with 12 teeth and an outer gear with 34 teeth.

This would mean r = 12 and R = 34.

The formula is LCM(R, r)/r so we start by finding the least common multiple of 34 and 12. This can be done by simply googling "LCM(12,34)", but there's also a simple technique to do this by hand.

Start by finding the prime factorization of both numbers. The prime factorization of a number is the single set of prime numbers whose product is the number. If you're not familiar with the concept this Kahn Academy video should help: https://www.khanacademy.org/math/pre-algebra/pre-algebra-factors-multiples/pre-algebra-prime-factorization-prealg/v/prime-factorization

The prime factorization of 12 is 2*2*3 and the prime factorization of 34 is 17*2

To find the least common multiple you multiply the numbers and divide by the duplicated factors. This gives:

(2*2*3*17*2)/2. You can also think of this as dividing by the greatest common denominator. We divide by 2 because 2 is the only factor in the prime factorization of 34 and 12.

(2*2*3*17*2)/2 = 204 and so 204 is the LCM of 12 and 24. Recall the equation is LCM(R, r)/r. So we now divide 204 by 12 (r) and get 17 meaning the design will have 17 petals.

The following is not helpful to drawing spirals. It is just my explanation of the formula for those who are interested from a math perspective.

This formula is derived by considering 2 main ideas:

1. A petal occurs each time the inner wheel rotates

2. All wheel combinations will eventually loop meaning no new petals will be created

Each rotation of the small gear moves r teeth along the larger gear. Once the gear has rotated enough times such that the # of rotations * r > R it will have gone around the big gear more than once. Only once the # of rotations * r is a multiple of R will the gear have returned to the exact place it started. In other words, we're looking for when r * an integer = R * an integer which is what the LCM is. The LCM gives the total number of teeth which need to be traveled so dividing by r gives the # of times the inner gear goes around which is the number of petals.

Additionally dividing by R instead of r gives the number of times the inner wheel goes around the outer wheel which is useful for knowing when you've completed the spiral.

Step 5: Drawing

Choose the gears you want to use. It is not required, but it does make the drawing easier to use tape. Fold the tape so that it is sticky on both sides and place it beneath the outer wheel so it's fixed to the paper. Ensure it doesn't interfere with the gear teeth. Now you're ready to draw!

Once you finish the spiral you can shift the gear over one and change colors to have a slightly offset different color spiral. This gives a fantastic effect!

Using colored pencils does an ok job consistently (as long as they're kept sharp), but pens give a more vibrant design.

Step 6: Teaching

If you'd like to use this idea for a lesson please reach out to me because I'd love to talk about it! Some of the things I'll teach are:

What the polar coordinate system is and how to use it

How to find the LCM of two or more numbers

How the formula for the number of petals is derived

The questions I plan to use for discussion with the students are:

How is the cartesian coordinate system extended into 3D?

How would the polar coordinate system be extended to 3D?

What are the variables which affect spirographs?

What would make the corners sharper?

How can you tell how many petals there will be based on the wheel size?

Thank you for reading!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
3D Printed Spirographs: Spirographs are a toy which originated in the 1800s. I wanted to prepare a fun, hands-on activity for a middle school math club as part of my job as Branham High School math club activities director and spirographs seemed like the perfect way to acc...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Pointillism Mandala: Hi! I’m going to show you that technique called pointillism. There are different ways to do it, but in this case I’m going to make a mandala with rainbow colors.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Hot Glue + Soda Cans = Gemstones!

Hey guys! :)

If you like the look of resin charms and gems, but don't want to use resin, here is an alternative! Also, instead of buying bezel settings, we're making our own using soda cans!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

3D Printed Student Design Challenge

Paint Challenge

Edible Art Challenge

Step 1: Cut and Shape Soda Can Strips

To make the fake bezel setting, cut out a strip from a soda can. If you're making a transparent charm, make sure that the printed side kind of matches your charm.

Then shape it however you like - something thin and round like the mine of a pen is useful for that. You can also gently fold the strips to make corners. Circles or ovals are the easiest shapes to make and fill later on - but many other shapes are possible! Shapes with corners are harder to fill though.

I like to round the ends of the strips a little bit to make them less pointy.

Step 2: Tape the Shapes

When you're done shaping the shapes, tape the shapes shut! (Try saying that fast) A very tiny piece of tape is needed for this step.

Step 3: Adding Color Method 1: Soda Cans

You can find beautiful shiny colors on soda cans. They are great in combination with transparent hot glue. Find a blank piece on your soda can and cut it out. Then use something like a round marker to straighten it out.

Instead, you can also color the silver side of a soda can and color it with Sharpies. You can create all kinds of effects that way. If you have alcohol inks, they would work really well too.

Step 4: Filling the Charms

For this method you need to find very transparent hot glue sticks (UK people: I got mine from Hobbycraft).

Place your shape on the metal piece, make sure it lies as flat as possible and fill it with hot glue.
Be careful: The metal gets hot, so don't touch it! Use something like a toothpick instead.

Step 5: Cutting Out the Gemstones

Once the hot glue has cooled down, you just need to cut out your gemstone! I like using my trusty nail scissors. Be gentle, because you don't want the soda can backing to separate from the glue.

Step 6: Adding Color Method 2: Nail Polish

If you don't have super transparent hot glue sticks - no problem!

Just use whatever hot glue you have and paint the glue with nail polish once it's cool. Instead of placing the "bezel" shapes on soda can material, you can use silicone or baking paper. I recommend silicone, because it doesn't warp and stays more flat - which means the charms will look better in the end.

Step 7: If All Else Fails: Glitter!

Crafting doesn't always go to plan. Luckily, there's one thing that saves the day: Glitter! Works like a charm if you want to cover up mistakes - or if you just like the effect!

Step 8: Adding Hooks to the Glue

If you want to hang your charm on a keychain or necklace, I thought of four ideas:

1) Eye pin: I formed an eye pin out of wire and left a little gap in the bezel shape to fit it in.

2) Very thin wire or string: Make a U-shape with very thin wire or string and place it under the bezel shape.

Step 9: Adding Hooks to the Back

3) Wire swirl: Create a swirl shape with a loop that you can glue to the back of the charm.

4) Ribbon: Fold a thin ribbon (like the ones that are inside shirts sometimes) and glue it to the back of the charm.

Step 10: That's All Folks!

Now you can use your charms and gems for jewelry, keychains, costumes and more!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Hot Glue + Soda Cans = Gemstones!: Hey guys! :)If you like the look of resin charms and gems, but don't want to use resin, here is an alternative! Also, instead of buying bezel settings, we're making our own using soda cans!

# data[].attributes.body
Ashley - a straw hat pirate!

# data[].attributes.body
Thanks, Kailyn!

# data[].attributes.body
Very nice, ladies!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Wreath and Tree Ornaments With Detachable Flowers

I was inspired by the LEGO flower to make some fun wreath and Christmas tree ornaments with pegs for detachable and rearrangeable flowers.

While my plan was originally to be like the LEGO flower design, as you can see, they didn't end up looking much like the LEGO flowers. I found the cylinder pegs too fragile and wanted to have fun with the designs. So, in the end, I give you a geometric cubic wreath with detachable flowers, and a fun tree kit that has detachable flowers as well!

Check out my shop on Etsy! You can also purchase these headbands on Etsy.

Instructable 355

Supplies

3D Printer - I have a Prusa MK3

Filament - I used a Pine Green for the base and then a variety of colors for the flowers. Let me know if you want to know about a specific one.

Ornament Hooks or String for hanging

*Any Amazon Links are Associate Links.

Step 1: STL Files

Here is a collection of all the STL files.

Step 2: Design Time! Wreath

I created these designs using Tinkercad.

For the wreath, I started with a simple TUBE for two reasons. 1) to ensure I kept my shape like a wreath and 2) to ensure I didn't have gaps that could cause problems in printing.

I knew ahead of time that I was going to (attempt to) sell these in my Etsy shop so I planned the size to fit inside a 3.5" by 3.5" by 1" box I already had. And, this IS a decent size for an ornament. So, the tube I started with was 62.34cm by 62.34cm by 2.83cm.

Once I had the cube, I pulled out a CUBE and just rotated it a bit. (Though similar too) Unlike with my geometric cubic necklace, I rotated the cubes so the edges would face up and not the corner points. I really just kind of picked a random size for the cube (though I went for not too big, not too small) and then just did more copying, rotating, and copying until I was happy.

As you can see, some of the original TUBE is visible which is why I want it there, to catch any small gaps. I did rearrange cubes until most of it was covered, but I also didn't want the cubes to be too crowded.

Step 3: Flower Pegs

As I mentioned briefly, I found cylinders too fragile during my tests. So, instead of that, I went with a FLOWER (from the Shapes Generators Section of the Shapes Panel) shaped peg as it had more strength and also added a nice look to the flowers.

I did tests with the peg (and the flower I'll talk about in the next step) and came up with a tapered shape I liked. I wanted the flowers to wedge on and not slide all the way to the base. I wanted them to be able to stay on their own if hung on the tree or in a window, but also come off.

Once I had the shape, I put copied and put them randomly on the wreath. Without trying to, I ended up with an even 20!

With those in place, I took a hole CUBE and cut off the base to keep it flat and easier to print.

I added a flower shaped loop on the top for hanging.

Wreath is done!

Step 4: Flower

For the flower, I actually just used cylinders grouped together. I added a second layer to the flower for depth and just to give it a little something extra.

Then I used a cutout flower shape that I messed around with earlier to cut out the center.

Step 5: Design Time! Tree

For the tree, I started by making the base. I used my Creeper Christmas Tree kit as a guide on size.

I made the layers up of elongated cones on top of cylinders. I used the cylinder bases because I wanted to print a strong base before the layers started shrinking.

I used the DUPLICATE function and made it smaller and continued to hit duplicate until I had 7 layers. I made all the layers the same height.

I experimented with connection points and ended up just doing cylinder cutouts on the bottom of each layer and a cylinder on top. I made them fairly big to give a strong connection between the layers.

Then I added the pegs I designed earlier. I experimented a lot with prints here too. I wanted you to be able to put the flowers on even if the branches were stacked on top of each other and glued together. But I also didn't want the flowers to slip all the way down to the branch. Eventually I got it just the way I wanted it and made it work for all the different layer sizes.

I stacked them up and made sure the height was the way I wanted it.

After printing, I decided it needed a base, so I used the FLOWER from the Shapes Generator section and made two of them with one with slightly shorter petals than the other to give it a little something.

I added a star with a star cutout on the top for hanging on the tree.

And, done!

Step 6: Printing Time

These print fairly easily, actually, and don't really require special settings.

The only recommendation I have settings wise is if you have the option, set the Elephant Foot Compensation to .1. The Prusa Slicer has this option and it seemed to give it a good fit on the bottom.

Step 7: Finished Wreath

If you want to do something extra, try printing the flowers so they have one color for the base, and a second color for the second row of petals.

I played around with some different wreath colors and flower colors.

Step 8: Finished Tree

If you want to hang the tree on your tree, you'll need to glue the layers together. Hot glue, E6000, and even super glue should all work fine for this.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Unusual Uses Contest

Made with Math Contest

Reclaimed Materials Contest

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Wreath and Tree Ornaments With Detachable Flowers

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Wreath and Tree Ornaments With Detachable Flowers: I was inspired by the LEGO flower to make some fun wreath and Christmas tree ornaments with pegs for detachable and rearrangeable flowers.While my plan was originally to be like the LEGO flower design, as you can see, they didn't end up looking much...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Orbital Sound

A device that makes a noise without the use on batteries, that's small light and portable.

This device makes use of resonance in a cavity.

As its an acoustic device we need to provide it with air.

But rather than applying the air by blowing into it we will propel the device at high speed to force the air.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Laser Challenge

Hide It Challenge

Made with Math Contest

Supplies

3D Printer
BlocksCAD Cura
Plastic Glue

String

Sanding Paper

File

Modelling knife

Handles (See Final assembly for further details)

Safety Glasses

2mm drill bit

Step 1: Theory

If both ends of a tube in a musical instrument are uncovered its an open end air column. E.g. woodwind instrument

The resonant frequency depends on the dimensions of the air column in conjunction with the air speed and temperature.

Anti-nodes or maximum vibration exist at the open ends of the air column with the length of the air-column half the wavelength of the fundamental frequency.

The frequency would be calculated as f =V/2L = 343.7 m/s /(2*0.012 m) = ~14.32kHz

However, being a sphere its a more complex process.

If we cover one hole the sphere approximates to a Helmholtz Resonator without a neck.

With calculated frequency of 72.6*SQRT(0.002/(0.012^3)) = ~2.47kHz

Both frequencies are within the audible range of 20Hz to 20kHz although there are variation between individuals particularly at the higher end.

However, the spinner is not travelling at a constant speed but accelerating and decelerating thus affecting the intensity and frequency of the sound.

Additionally, multiple harmonics are also produced at higher frequencies than the fundamental.

For the design spheres rather than cylinders are used as they offer better stability in motion offering less air resistance and being more streamline..

When the spinner is turning air passes quickly over the outer surface creating a pressure difference attempting to pull air out of the sphere conversely the lower pressure created attempts the suck the air back in.

These oscillations of the air repeat at long as the spinner rotates.

Step 2: Design

The device will be required to rotate rapidly without the use of batteries or electrical motors.

This will be accomplished with the energy stored in a wound string with an offset axis.

In order for the device to rotate smoothly it is required to be balanced and symmetrical, a circular object fits the bill.

The circular object will normally rotate in the vertical plane.

As this device was to be 3D printed consideration needs to be given to the overall shape, size, strength and aerodynamics.

The circular object comprises a supporting dual hoop wheel with 4 spokes and a central hole.

But this on its own is not what will make the sound we desire.

In order to make the noise we require some resonators.

The resonators will be hollow spheres with two holes, one at each of horizontally opposite aligned poles.

A total of four resonators will be included which will fit between the gap of the two spokes.

Two small oppositely placed rings will be placed close to the centre through which the string will be laced.

In order to negate the requirement for supports and ensure the spheres are hollow.

The device (spinner), will be created in two halves in order to print it flat and then the two halves will be stuck together.

Printing in two halves enables the spheres to be inspected internally for issues.

Design details:

Radius of the outer hoop is 32 mm

Radius of the inner hoop is 18 mm

Radius of the spheres is 7 mm with wall thickness 1 mm.

Radius of the holes in the spheres is 1 mm.

Spokes and hoop thickness is 2 mm.

Once the design is complete, its rendered in high resolution to create a smooth print then a STL file is generated.

Step 3: Print Preparation

Load Cura (used for this project) or similar splicing application.

Open the STL file.

As we require two halves to create the completed spinner we need to create a multiple of the object.

This is accomplished by right clicking the object and selecting "Multiplying selected object".

Enter 1 in the dialog box (as we only require one object), and select OK.

The additional object will be placed on the bed.

Right click on an object and select "Select All Objects".

This will allow all the objects to be moved as a group to enable centring on the bed.

Once the objects are positioned assign the printer settings.

In the case the settings are:

Layer Height - 0.15 mm

Infill - Tri-Hexagon

Infill Density - 50%

Base Adhesion - Brim

No supports.

Filament - PLA

Weight - 9 grams

Print Time - 1 hour 22 mins

Save the Gcode file for the printer.

Step 4: Printing

Print using PLA or other suitable filament in a colour of your choice.

You could even print the two halves in different colours.

Step 5: Post Processing

Once printed remove the Brim.

Remove any blemishes or strings from the surface by filing, sanding or cutting.

Sand the flat side of the spinners to remove any roughness as this will help ensure the surfaces fit together evenly and prevent gaps in the spheres that will affect the sound due to air leakage.

Regarding leaks, the 3D printing process is known to produce small gaps between and in layers as a result these will require filling in.

The gaps are filled in with lacquer, enamel paint or epoxy resin this is applied both internally and externally and left to dry.

If necessary clear out the holes in the spheres with a 2 mm drill bit.

Clear out or widen the holes for the strings as required.

Following this a suitable plastic glue is applied to the flat surfaces of the two halves and these are bonded together.

The spinner is complete.

Step 6: Final Assembly

Measure approximately 1 metre (39 inches), of string/twine.

Thread the cord through both string holes to form a loop and tie the ends together with a suitable knot, I used a square (reef) knot.

Handles.

Subject to the string diameter and finish you may wish to add handles or use gloves to prevent the string rubbing your fingers.

Handles may be created from the following:

Two large body felt tip pens (loop the cord around the body), dowels (looped with cord or through holes), or circular disc cut from wood (loop cord through hole and body). Other options may be considered such as 3d printed handles.

Step 7: Operation

Before use and periodically during use check that the spinner has no issues and that the string is not fraying.

If any issue are found better to reprint a new spinner and to re-thread with a new string.

As a precaution wear eye protection in case there is a failure of the spinner or the string should snap.

Without handles:

Stretch out the string loop to form two parallel lines with index and middle fingers of each hand looped through the turns at the extremes

Clasp the string in closed fingers.

With handles.

Stretch out the string loop to form two parallel lines clasp the handles in closed fingers.

The rest of the process is applicable to either method.

Centre the spinner along the string so as to be positioned equidistant between your hands by sliding along the string loop.

Hold the string loosely with forearms parallel such that the spinner and string form a "V" shape with the spinner at the bottom of the "V".

The string is tensioned by rotating both hands in unison (creating small arcs), maintaining the "V" shape (as far as possible); as the string tightens it should shorten as it is wound.

Once the string starts to produce kinks, it is would sufficiently.

At this stage maintaining parallel forearms pull your hands outward away from each other.

The spinner will start to spin unwinding the twist previously applied whilst simultaneously whistling.

Once unwound the momentum will cause the string to wind its self in the opposite direction but at the same time losing momentum and slowing down.

During this stage relax the opposing pull between your hand and pull them apart again causing the spinner to rotate in the opposite direction picking up speed in the process.

Repeating the process with a smooth co-ordinated action will keep the spinner rotating and whistling.

It may take a little practice the get the spinner to rotate.

It's also a good exercise for your arms.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Orbital Sound: A device that makes a noise without the use on batteries, that's small light and portable.This device makes use of resonance in a cavity.As its an acoustic device we need to provide it with air.But rather than applying the air by blowing into it we ...

# data[].attributes.body
I think this could be really cool for a set of smaller coasters too!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Reverse Applique Pillow

Reverse Applique is a very easy technique to learn, it requires just 2 layers of fabric and you can do any design that takes your fancy. I made circles here, like the sun, but you can do diamonds, squares, or flowers and swirls like in the Alabama Chanin style. I would start small like this pillow I am about to show or even smaller and make some really cute drink coasters, but this technique can also be used on larger projects such as quilts or even with clothes.

The top layer should be out of a material that does not fray very much, such as felt, jersey knit, or in my case a jean material, this will allow the cutting of the top layer to be easier to work with. The second layer of fabric (background) is out of cotton and can be a single piece or you can piece several pieces together to make the background.

Lets get started!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Reclaimed Materials Contest

3D Printed Student Design Challenge

Tiny Things Speed Challenge

Supplies

For a 18" (45 cm) Pillow you will need:

1 yard (meter) non fraying fabric

1 yard (meter) cotton fabric

Sewing Thread

Embroidery Thread

24" (60 cm) Zipper

Pillow Form

Step 1: Cutting Fabric

Pillow Front:

1. 20" x 20" non fraying material

2. 20" x 20" cotton fabric or smaller pieces pieced together (like pictured above)

Piecing options: Option A-10 strips of 2.5" x 20" sewn together

Arrange the fabric strips long-sides together in a pleasing manner, place the first 2 strips right sides together and sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Sew a third strip to the second in the same manner. Repeat until all 10 strips have been sewn together then iron the seams flat. The pieced background should be approximately 20″ x 20″

Option B -16 different pieces of 5.5" squares sewn together.

Arrange the fabric squares in the order desired. Place the first 2 pieces right sides together and sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the third and fourth squares in the same manner. Repeat for the second (5-8), third (9-12) and fourth (13-16) rows, then sew those rows all together using a 1/4" seam, press all seams open, the finished background size should be approximately 20" x 20"
Pillow Back:

1. 2 pieces of 11" x 20" non fraying material

2. 1 Piece of 4" x 20" cotton fabric, folded in half and ironed

Pillow Binding: 2" x 80" cotton fabric, folded in half and ironed

Step 2: Pillow Front

If you have pieced your background cotton fabric together, iron the seams open.

Place the background fabric face up and place the non fraying material face up on top of the colorful cotton background fabric, so both pieces are facing up! Very important both!

Now take your embroidery thread and make a design using a running stitch going through both layers of fabric.

In order to make circles trace around objects you can find in your house. I used a spool of thread and a plastic lid to help start my circles and then I just eye-balled the rest. Leave room in between your stitching this is where you will cut out the top layer of fabric.

Step 3: Cutting the Pillow Front

Now this is the FUN part, cutting back the top fabric to show the bottom fabric and let it shine! You don't need to cut in between every stitched line, just go with what you think looks good. Be careful when you cut that you don't cut through the second layer. Good tools to use, a seam ripper to start the cut and then small scissors to get around inside of the lines, cut around the embroidery stitching and exposing the background fabric.

Step 4: Pillow Back

Place 1 piece of 11"x20" non fraying material right side up, place the 4" x 20" cotton fabric that you have ironed in half (now 2" x 20") with the raw edges together, then place the zipper with the teeth facing down on top, stitch a 1/4" seam along the edge, use pins or clips to keep all 3 items in place from slipping. Iron the cotton flange over the zipper. Now take the bottom 11"x20" piece with the zipper facing with the teeth up and the flange out of the way, place the bottom piece raw edge against the zipper and pin or clip the 2 pieces together and sew a 1/4" seam along the whole piece then flip the bottom over and iron.

Step 5: Combining the Front to the Back

Place your back pillow panel face down on a cutting mat then place the front of the pillow face up on top of the back panel. Be sure your zipper tab is pulled in a little to the middle of the pillow so you don't cut it off. Now trim the pillow down to 18" square, making it nice and even on all sides.

Step 6: Sewing the Binding On

For the binding take a 2" strip about 80" long and fold wrong sides together and press. Match the raw edges of the binding with the raw edges of the pillow "sandwich" use clips to keep the layers together, sew a 1/4" seam along all sides. When you get to a corner stop 1/4" to the end and backstich, pull the needle up and cut the thread. Take the binding strip and fold it up away from your project creating a 45degree angle, then bring the binding strip back down to follow along the raw edge of the next side of the pillow (see pictures) Start sewing a 1/4" from the edge be sure to back stitch and continue to the next corner and do the same for all 4 corners, making it back to where you started the binding. Cut any excess off and sew the ends together. Iron the binding to the back and hand sew the binding to the back of the pillow.

Step 7: Couch Pillow?

What do you think? Would you like to make one? If you have any questions, just let me know.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Reverse Applique Pillow: Reverse Applique is a very easy technique to learn, it requires just 2 layers of fabric and you can do any design that takes your fancy. I made circles here, like the sun, but you can do diamonds, squares, or flowers and swirls like in the Alabama ...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Cute Felt Frog Pal Wire Form Posable Sculpture

My favourite art inspirations are "Dr Seuss", "The Muppets" and "Sesame Street". I love the bold, fun, quirky designs. They inspire me to create my own felt sculpture pieces that combine happy, fun shapes but in a weird way. I want my creations to have the ability to pose for action and set off on their own adventures!

In this Instructable, I share the easiest of my felt sculpture creations - a simplified frog with a wonderful smile, long limbs and hypnotic eyes. I'd love to see an entire pond of these little felt pals out in the world.

I have made these instructions as easy as pie - with lots of photos and making tips, simple shapes, readily available materials and easy hand stitching.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials and Print Out the Pattern Sheets

Gather your supplies for this build. You will also need to download and print out the pattern sheets (2 * A4 pages, see attached).

Materials:

2 * A4 sheets bright green felt (I used wool felt but it's not necessary - just a nice colour and not too thick or stiff)

2 * A4 sized sections of light weight iron on interfacing to attach to the back of the felt sheets

Scraps of 2 shades of yellow felt for the eyes (about 12cm square would do)

Scrap of fusible webbing for the eyes (about 12cm square would do)

2 * 7mm safety eyes

Embroidery thread:

Black DMC 310

Light Bright Green DMC 906 (or preferably, get the best colour match thread to your felt)

Yellow DMC 3822 and DMC 445, or in 2 shades to match your felt

Florist wire 36cm in length and 18 gauge - you will need 5 lengths. Note: chenille sticks are really not strong enough for this task.

Scrap of wadding (a strip 40cm * 2cm is all you need)

Duck Tape

Cheap wool in any colour (it will be totally covered)

2 B pencil

Scissors for cutting felt (so NOT your good dressmaking scissors!)

Embroidery needle

Pins

Craft knife or sharp pointy scissors to make holes for the eyes

Wire cutters/pliers

Small amount of polyester filling, or even cotton balls (only a small amount is used)

Toy stuffing tool, or old small paintbrush with bristles cut short, or a chop stick with a groove in the top (for stuffing)

Embroidery stitches used:

Step 2: Trace the Pattern Pieces and Iron Onto Felt

Trace the four leg sections, four arms sections, and two body shapes onto the two A4 sheets of interfacing using a 2B pencil (the non shiny side, please).

You will notice on the pattern sheets I have set out all the frogs limbs, so that you can just trace the pattern pieces (no template making needed!)

Trace the four sets of eye pieces onto the little section of fusible webbing (paper side)

Using a hot dry iron, affix the two A4 sheets of interfacing onto the A4 sheets of felt. Be careful if the felt you are using is not wool - it will have a lower melting temperature. You may need a cloth to cover as you press.

Affix the fusible webbing shapes for the eyes on the two scraps of yellow felt. I went with a darker yellow colour for the outer eye and a lighter shade for the inner eye.

Step 3: Cutting Out All the Shapes and Marking the Mouth

Using your NON-dressmaking scissors, cut out the shapes from the green felt. You can make sure your shapes are an exact match by cutting out one sides shapes and then pair and pin with the opposing side.

Cut the eyes out of the yellow felt.

Using the template on the pattern sheet as a guide position the two sets of felt eye shapes to the front of one of the body shapes and iron into position. I work one set of shapes at a time. So the big outer eyes first then the smaller inner eye on top. You can see from the pattern sheet that the eye inner circles are offset to the outer circle.

Use the pattern guide to mark a line for the mouth in pencil. If you want some more precision, try running a few pins as guides for where the mouth starts and stops from the pattern piece to the felt.

Step 4: Stitching the Frogs Face

Using two strands of the black embroidery thread and your embroidery needle, stitch the mouth in back stitch. If the mouth does not feel thick enough to you, you can stitch back over the top again.

Using two strands of each of the yellow embroidery threads, blanket stitch the two sets of eye circles into position.

Step 5: Attaching the Eyes

Use the pencil to mark a dot in the centre of the smallest felt circles on your frog front.

Using a craft knife or sharp pointy scissors, make little holes for the safety eyes. Once the hole is JUST big enough feed the eye front through the felt and then secure into place with the safety eye back. Because these eyes are a bit long, use the wire cutters to trim the stalk back.

Set all the felt shapes aside.
[A word about the eyes - I like to get the most engaging eye choice I can for my creations. With that in mind, I first picked out some safety eyes that are marked as frogs eyes to use (white with a black centre). I tried these out and the effect didn't feel super nice. So I ended up going with 7mm black safety eyes. I have each photographed so you can compare and see which one speaks to you.]

Step 6: Making the Wires for the Limbs

Each of the frogs limbs are formed from two lengths of florist wire joined together with duck tape and then covered with two layers of tightly woven wool. The only difference in construction between the leg length and the arm length is that I have cut 5cm off each of the wires for the arm length. You will notice I have not twisted the wires together. This is deliberate. If you twist the wires together you create springs which are more rigid and difficult to pose, while also weakening the structure. I have used 18 gauge florist wire lengths (the thick ones). They are nice and strong for this size construction.

To form the legs, line up two lengths of florist wire side by side. At the mid point and each end, wrap the wire in a small piece of duck tape. This joins the wire and cushion the sharp ends.

Take the wool ball, and using duck tape, tape one end to the leg wire about 10cm from one end. Start to twist the wool tightly around the wire completely covering the wires. Work until you reach the end of the wire and then turn around and go back winding toward the other end. When you have reached that end, turn around again and work back to where you started 10 cm from the first end. In this way you have covered the entire length of wire twice in wool. Use a little piece of duck tape to secure.

Repeat this process for the arms, but cut 5cm off the two wires first.

You now have the limb armature.

Step 7: Putting the Felt Onto the Limbs

Each limb is formed by stitching first one and then the second felt skin for the limb over the ends so that they meet in the middle.

To make the legs, take the first pair of felt shapes and using two strands of green embroidery thread, blanket stitch from the thin top toward the foot of the leg. As you reach the toes, slide the half stitched leg onto one end of the leg wire. Fill the foot with a small amount of polyester filling and then continue blanket stitching up the leg until you reach the end of the felt. Secure the felt to the limb wire with a few stitches at the top. Repeat for the other end of the leg, so they meet in the middle of the wire.

You have now created a pair of legs.

Repeat this process for the arms.

Step 8: Making the Wire Backbone for the Frog

The wire backbone of the frog is simply one length of the same 18 gauge florist wire, bent in the middle and then twisted firstly around the arms and then the legs, then trimmed and secured with duck tape before a layer of padding is added.

Take your arms and legs and lie them across the back of the frog using the pattern template as a guide for positioning. Be sure that each set of limbs is centred to the middle of the back.

Take the remaining 18 gauge florist wire and bend in half in the middle to form a narrow loop about 2cm wide. Lie this loop at the top of the frog back well inside where the frogs head ends. Lay the arms over the wire and twist the wire from back to front and from top to bottom around the arms.

Now position the legs inside the back shape just above the bottom of the shape and repeat the loop of wire around the legs. Curl the wires back up towards the top of the head and use the wire cutters to trim them to about half way between leg and arm. Bend the wires down (you can use pliers), and then secure the wires into position using duck tape.

Take a 2cm wide strip of wadding about 40 cm long and wind it tightly around the frog backbone wires at least twice. Trim any excess and tape into position using duck tape. The frog armature is now complete.

Step 9: Making the Frogs Body

Using the pattern sheet as a guide mark a beginning and end point to stitch from armhole to arms hole over the frogs head. Using two strands of the green embroidery thread, blanket stitch the frog body front to frog body back wrong sides together from arm hole to arm hole over the frog's head.

Slide the two joined sections of body over the armature loop.

Pin the frog body front and back at the base of the body and using two strands of the green embroidery thread, blanket stitch the seam from one side to the other. Make sure you DON'T catch in the leg as you go. You want to be able to 'gather' the seam a little once the frog is filled with stuffing.

Step 10: Filling Your Frog Body

Using the polyester filling and a filling tool, fill the frogs body with stuffing. Don't panic if you can't get super tight at this stage. You can add more stuffing once the side seams are done.

Pin and blanket stitch the first side using two strands of green and work from leg hole to arm hole. Don't worry about the little gap around the leg and arm holes at this stage. You will be closing these up using back stitch once you are happy with the frog's stuffing level.

Repeat for the other side seam.

Use the filling tool to feed a little more fill into the frog through the arm and leg hole until you are happy with the shape.

Step 11: Finish the Frog!

Using back stitch and two strands of green embroidery thread, back stitch around each of the leg and arm holes. Your frog is now complete. Finish by bedding the limbs into the desired shape, making sure the shoulders, hips, elbows, knees hand and foot bends are in the same places on both sides. Your frog is very easily posed, can grasp, and is ready for adventures!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Made with Math Contest

Paint Challenge

3D Printed Student Design Challenge

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Cute Felt Frog Pal Wire Form Posable Sculpture

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Cute Felt Frog Pal Wire Form Posable Sculpture: My favourite art inspirations are "Dr Seuss", "The Muppets" and "Sesame Street". I love the bold, fun, quirky designs. They inspire me to create my own felt sculpture pieces that combine happy, fun shapes but in a weird way. I want my creations to...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: How to Make a Crescent Moon Pendant Using Wire

Ah the moon, don't you just love it? I certainly do! But sadly it disappears during the day and although the sun is nice, you can't exactly admire it's beauty ( Don't gaze at the sun, kids!)

So why not make a moon that you can carry around with you?
In this Instructable, I will show you:

How to use household objects to make a crescent moon shape with wire.

How to add beads to your project using wire.

Some tips, at the end, on what kind of wire to use if you want to make your moon smaller (for earrings) or bigger (for let's say window decorations).

Lets get started!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Sewing Challenge

Audio Challenge

Robots Contest

Supplies

You will need:

Wire: I'm using 18 gauge and 26 gauge silver plated wire (remember the higher the gauge the thinner the wire so you can use your judgement!)

Four Beads: Mine are 6mm Czech glass but you can use 4mm beads or 8mm just up or lower the number of beads you use.

A Ruler

Piers: Flat nosed, Round nosed, Snips

Two tubes/ forms: Circumference of mine are 9.5cm & 6cm (3.7" & 2.3")

Cloth: to straighten your wire

Step 1: Cut Your Wire

Remember to always cut your wire longer then recommended if you think you need to. It gets easier with experience to determine how much you need for a project but I find it's always better to have too much than too little.

1. Cut a length of your 18 gauge wire 15cm (6") long.

2. Use a cloth (or your sleeve!) to help straighten your wire.

Step 2: Measure & Bend

1. Using your ruler measure 9cm (3.5") in on one side.

2. Bend your wire at this point so you now have a long side (9cm/3.5") and a short side (6cm/2.3").

3. Continue to bend the wire along this point until they both meet up (Pic.2)

4. Grab your pliers and "squeeze" the bend so its less open (Pic.3)

Step 3: Find Your Forms

Find two forms, one big and one slightly smaller, to aid you in making your moon. I'm using the inside tube off some foil and the handle of *sigh*....... a cheese grater. I too wish it was something cooler but lets move on. My big tube is 9.5cm (3.7") in circumference and my smaller one is 6cm (2.3").

Step 4: Making the Crescent: Part 1

In these pictures your longer piece of wire is at the bottom and the shorter at the top (see notes on Pic.1).

1. Lay your folded wire on your big tube.

2. Pressing down with your thumb to keep it in place, bend your long piece of wire right around your tube.

3. You should have something similar to Pic.4.

Step 5: Making the Crescent: Part 2

Grab your smaller form and do the same with your short piece of wire.

Step 6: The Final Shape

Now you can do some final tinkering at this stage to get the shape you want. I was pretty happy with mine but thought the part where I bent it was a tad pointy so I just separated it a bit. Remember the moon is like us, it goes through phases! Be it a punk phase, a Pokémon phase or a Batman phase (although I would consider some of these things more a way of life). I believe I have gone off topic... What I'm trying to say is don't get too hung up with the final shape and feel free to experiment with different sizes of tubes.

Step 7: Loops!

You might need to use your snips here to cut off a tiny bit of excess wire so you can get the loops the size you want.

1. Grab your round nosed pliers and create a loop on your top wire.

2. Do the same at the bottom.

I recommend not closing your loops fully here as it helps with the wire wrapping in the next step.

Step 8: Attach Wire

Grab your thin wire (26 gauge) and cut a length of it 20cm (7.9") long.

1. Attach the wire to your moon by wrapping it around your top loop 3 times.

2. Cut off any excess and use your flat nosed pliers to push in the sharp point.

3. Wrap through both loops 4 times tightly so both your loops are now touching (see Pic.5)

4. Now wrap your wire on the inside of your crescent 4 times.

Step 9: Bedazzle!

Choose some beads to adorn your moon with. I know what you're thinking, great idea using white beads to then take pictures on a white background, to which I'd say..... I have no good excuse (sorry).

1. Thread a bead onto your wire and wrap your wire 3 times around the outside crescent.

2. Continue to add your beads in a zig-zag threading your wire so its going over and then under your thick wire (see note in Pic.2)

3. When you reach the end, finish off by wrapping your wire 3-4 times and cut off the excess (and push in the pointy bit!).

Step 10: Eye Clasp

Eye clasps are mostly used in jewelry to attach things together. In this case we are hooking it onto the top loop of our moon so we can then easily hang it onto our chain.

1. Cut a piece of your thick 18 gauge wire 2.5cm (1").

2. Using your round nosed pliers, make a small loop on either side.

You can now clip this onto the top of your moon and close any open loops.

Step 11: You're Finished!

Congratulations, you're finished! You can make these crescent moons any size you want. If you want to make smaller ones and make earrings I'd recommend using 20 gauge and 28 gauge wire and use some 4mm beads or some "seed beads". If you want to go bigger you can use 16 gauge and 24 gauge wire. It's up to you! Now go forth and make many moons!!!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Make a Crescent Moon Pendant Using Wire

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
How to Make a Crescent Moon Pendant Using Wire: Ah the moon, don't you just love it? I certainly do! But sadly it disappears during the day and although the sun is nice, you can't exactly admire it's beauty (Don't gaze at the sun, kids!)So why not make a moon that you can carry around with you?

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Mini-copter Toy

This instructable will teach you how to make, and more importantly, design your own mini-copter. The idea is very simple, our copter will fly by spinning up a propeller as fast as possible. To drive our helicopter propeller, we use a cord that you can pull to spin the stick to which the propellor is attached.

In this instructable, I'll show you the design process of the 3d printed propeller in Tinkercad. My ultimate goal is to reach the longest flight time. I'll try to explain some of my design ideas and concepts. With this information, you too are able to design your own mini-copter, and I challenge you to design an even better propeller and beat my flight-time record with it.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Space Contest

Micro:bit Contest

3D Printed Student Design Challenge

Supplies

In order to make the mini-copter, you'll need:

1. a cocktail pick

2. a piece of cord

3. gum (or glue)

4. a 3d printer
(Since most people don't own a 3D printer: You can also make this by cutting the propeller out of a carton. It requires a bit more creativity, but you can make it work!)

Step 1: Designing: Propeller Middle

The middle of the propeller has to be attached to the rod after printing.

In tinkercad, we'll start with an empty new 3D design.
The first shape we add is a simple cylinder, which will be the middle of the mini-copter. The cylinder has to have a hole for the cocktail pick and has to be sturdy enough to hold all of the propeller blades

I use a cylinder with a radius of 4mm (diameter = 8), and a height for the two of 8 mm.
After The cylinder has been put in, you can select a hole in a cylindrical shape by selecting the grey cylinder. A hole Put it exactly in the middle, so there will be no imbalance. You can do this easily by switching to "bottom view" by clicking the cube in the top left of the screen. The hole has a radius of 2mm (diameter = 4), and also a height of 8 mm.

In this part you want to have as little mass as possible, the heavier the middle is the faster the mini-copter will drop to the ground. So I recommend only make the middle as small as you absolutely have to.

Step 2: Designing: the Propeller Blades

Next up is the "engine" of the mini copter. The blades push the air downwards, and as a result, also push the minicopter upwards.
I start by adding a cube in tinkercad, by decreasing the height and increasing the length you get a nice flat rectangle that will be an ideal start for a blade.

Make sure the blade touches the middle by dragging the rectangle. Note that you don't have to worry the rectangle will cover up the hole you made for the cocktail pick, it will automatically make a hole in the rectangle aswell.

The next step is to determine a nice angle for the blade. The higher the angle, the better the blades push away the air. But if you lower the angle, the air resistance decreases and the minicopter can spin longer. I therefore choose an angle of 45 degrees.

You can easily apply the angle by clicking the cube in the top left, and view the blade from the side.

Step 3: Designing: Adding All the Blades

The next step is to duplicate the blade, so you can have as many blades as you want. I choose 4 blades, which I think is a nice balance between construction strength, having enough blades to fly, and being light enough.

You can copy and paste the first blade you made. By tilting the copied blade to the desired angle, and dragging it to the correct place.

Make sure to check if all blades are perfectly symmetrical by looking at your propeller from the bottom view. Otherwise the mini-copter will not fly stable.

You can try changing the number of blades, the angle, the length, width and the thickness of the blades.

Step 4: Designing: the Propeller Ring

In order to make sure the propeller is less prone to breaking, and to make a sturdier connection, will add a tube around de blades.

Start by selecting a tube from the shape menu. Place it exactly in the middle. By altering the radius and wall thickness you can place the ring at the right position.

In addition to construction strength, the ring also adds inertia to the mini-copter. The larger the inertia, the more energy the mini-copter has, and the slower the propeller will stop spinning. Making the ring heavier therefore could result in a larger flight time.
In opposition to the middle, where extra weight results in very little extra inertia, the extra weight in the ring could improve the performance.

Be very carefull to not make the ring too heavy, the mini-copter will fall straight down...

Step 5: Designing: the Handle

The handle makes sure you can hold the mini-copter while spinning the propeller up.

The design is quite simple. A cylinder with a radius of 5mm, and a hole with a radius of 3mm (slightly bigger than the middle of the propeller, to ensure there is little friction) the height is 55mm which fits nicely in your hand.

Step 6: Printing!

The next step is to print the blades. I use the software cura to set up the print, and a ender 3v2 to print the blades.
The settings I use in cura are: PLA, low quality (faster printing), 2 walls, 3 top layers, and 40% infill. Printing takes about 40 minutes.

Step 7: Assembly: the Rod

We will attach the cocktail pick to the propeller with gum. If you have chewed the gum for a while, it's perfect to firmly attach the propeller. The reason I use gum, is because the cocktail pick might break. With gum it is easy to replace it!

Step 8: Attaching the Rope

It is important to make sure the rope is not attached to the mini-copter. The rope should namely come off after you are done spinning. Otherwise, the extra weight of the rope is far to big.

To ensure this, you start by laying a short endpiece of the cord alongside the cocktail pick. You can then wrap the cord around it so it is won't come loose.

After you've done this first piece, you can wrap the remainder of the cord around and around. I use a cord length of about 90cm.

Step 9: Testing: Make It Fly!

Then finally you are able to fly!

Put the mini-copter in the holder, after winding the cord around it. Once you pull the cord as hard as you can, the mini-copter will fly up.

It takes some time to master, but once you get the hang of it, but after a while, I was able to get a flight time of about 3.6 seconds from a starting height of about 1.5m. Are you able to beat this time by altering the design?? Good luck, and let me know in the comments!

edit - aeinsignares noted that the rope can be wound under the handle instead of above. This really helps with the minicopter flying straight up.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Mini-copter Toy: This instructable will teach you how to make, and more importantly, design your own mini-copter. The idea is very simple, our copter will fly by spinning up a propeller as fast as possible. To drive our helicopter propeller, we use a cord that you c...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Magnetic Spinning Desk Toy

There was a vintage toy made in West Germany during the 1950s that consisted of two magnets, one hidden inside a ballerina and the other inside a mirror. If the mirror was moved close to the ballerina, she would start to pirouette. Amazingly this spinning motion was created without any gears, belts, motors, or batteries of any kind.

You can explore how this same spinning mechanism worked by constructing a simple desk toy from a few simple materials: magnets, tops of bottles, and paper. This would be a good STEAM activity for introducing the important physics concepts of magnetism, friction, center of gravity, and torque.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Back to School: Student Design Challenge

Organization Contest

Rocks, Gems, and Stones Speed Challenge

Supplies

1. Lid of a spice jar - one with a rounded top

2. If you cannot find a suitable spice jar, then grab a 2 liter drinks bottle from the recycling

3. Magnets - neodymium is best but any strong set of magnets should work. It is preferable that they can easily be stacked on top of each other

4. Blue/white tack or some form of glue

5. Paper

6. Cardboard

Step 1: The Spherical Base

If you have a spice jar with a rounded lid, then just detach it.

Alternatively, find a spherical part of an empty drinks bottle and mark a circle on it about 40 mm in diameter. Carefully cut this circle out. The 2 liter bottles work well for this. I tried smaller bottles but the top parts were far from spherical and the finished toy didn't spin quite so well as a consequence.

Step 2: Attach Magnets

1. With the convex side of the spherical lid facing downwards, apply a small drop of glue or a ball of white/blue tack to the center of the concave side.

2. Attach a magnet to the center. You can stack multiple magnets as long as you don't put so many that the lid topples over when pushed. If you are making more than one desk toy, make sure that the magnets are all oriented in the same direction e.g. north poles pointing upwards

3. Test the spinning mechanism - Hold another magnet parallel to the stack so that they repel each other. Tilt the magnet by 45 degrees to the vertical. Slowly bring it closer to the lid. The lid should start to spin.

4. If the lid doesn't spin, or only spins when the other magnet is very close and almost touching the lid, then try adding more magnets to both stacks.

Step 3: Decorate Your Desk Toy

Cut out cardboard or paper shapes to decorate the desk toy. There are only a few rules to follow:

1. Try to keep it more or less balanced - don't stick heavy cardboard shapes only on one side

2. Don't let parts drag on the ground. This risks hindering the spinning motion

3. Keep decorations short. Very tall shapes may make it too easy for the toy to topple over.

I've found that spiral shapes and simple paper cones yielded pleasing "barber pole"-like results.

Step 4: Magnetic Cube Controller

Cut out a net pattern of a cube from cardboard. The cube net size should be chosen to accommodate the stack of magnets you were holding when testing the desk toy.

Glue the stack diagonally across the inner surface of one face of the cube. Glue the cube closed.

Step 5: Experiment and Observe the Movement of the Desk Toy

Bring the cube near the desk toy. The cube face with the magnet should be facing towards it. Note how the desk toy reacts.

1. Is it attracted or repelled by the cube?

2. Does it spin clockwise or anti clockwise?

Try holding the cube in different orientations. Mark the cube faces so that you can easily figure out how to hold it in order to get the desk toy to move in a particular direction.

Can you figure out how this toy works?

I myself am still trying to come up with a succinct and easy to understand explanation for how the rotational motion arises from simply pushing the magnets towards each other. Perhaps you can come up with a neat and tidy explanation.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Magnetic Spinning Desk Toy: There was a vintage toy made in West Germany during the 1950s that consisted of two magnets, one hidden inside a ballerina and the other inside a mirror. If the mirror was moved close to the ballerina, she would start to pirouette. Amazingly this sp...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Blowgun Launched Toy Parachute

Blowgun Launched Toy Parachute
There are a couple of 'problems' with toy parachutes....

1. How to get them up in the air.

2. The shroud lines always get tangled.

Well, this Instructables hopes to address both issues.

[ Slow motion of a launch from the blowgun. https://youtu.be/sH-VP5IDaac ]

First off I thought I'd try something different to get the parachute into the air. A blowgun.

My imagination was sparked after running across a 1930s toy parachute on the internet. Mine is similar but with improvements!

Second, I took care of the tangling shroud lines by threading them through plastic tubes. Drink stir sticks to be precise. They keep the parachute canopy out front during launch and with rigid shroud lines they don't tangle.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Fashion Challenge

Micro:bit Contest

First Time Author Contest

Supplies

24 in long piece of 1/2 in. dia. PVC pipe

Six - 7 in. long plastic drink stir sticks (7" is longer than most)

Approx 2" square piece of 2mm thick chip board (heavy solid cardboard)

4 ft of light cotton string (Dollar Tree)

Thin plastic shopping bag

Self-adhesive plastic tape ('Scotch' tape)

One 1/4" x 20 steel nut (Not Shown)

Two paper images of paratrooper (Not Shown)

Super thin solid wire (Dollar Tree)

1/2 in PVC Coupling (Optional - A bigger mouthpiece)

1/2 in. PVC Elbow (Optional - If you don't want to tip your head back so far to launch.)
TOOLS
Aviation Snips

Glue Gun

Scissors

Fine Point Felt Pen

Step 1: Cut Out Paratrooper Base

Trace the inside of the PVC pipe onto the chip board to get the correct size. I cut off a thin sliver of pipe to make tracing easier.

Cut the chip board with Aviation Snips. You could also use a coping or band saw. The snips leave a nice clean cut.

I checked fit by placing the round base inside the pipe sample.

Step 2: Cut Out Paratrooper and Add Holes

Cut out a piece of chip board to 1-3/8 in. x 1/2 in. for the paratrooper body.

Three holes need to be placed along the top edge. The holes are 3/32 in. dia.

I tried drilling them, but it gave really messy rough edges. I then had the thought to use a hand-held metal punch to punch the holes in the chip board, which worked spectacularly, with clean smooth holes.

Step 3: Thread the Shroud Lines (String)

The BIG Picture: There are three holes across the top of the paratrooper board. Three separate strings will each be threaded through a tube, the paratrooper board, and another tube. Each string functions as two shroud lines, one on each side of the paratrooper (a tube on each side). The strings are not attached to the paratrooper board per se, they are just threaded through a hole in the top edge of the paratrooper board.

Thread a Shroud line: Cut the string into three 16 inch lengths. Each string becomes two shroud lines. Tie a knot in one end of each string. The un-knotted end of each string is threaded through the stir sticks (tubes) by using a piece of super small solid wire. The wire is pushed through the tube. Once the wire exits the tube it is bent around the string and the end of the wire is inserted back into the tube (back on itself). The wire is pulled through the tube pulling the string with it. This threads the string through the tube.

Step 4: Thread the String Through the Holes in the Paratrooper

Thread the string coming out of the tube you just threaded, through one of the paratrooper holes, again using the thin wire to pull it through. Then thread the string through another tube, followed by another knot.

The order of assembly from one end to another is: knot, exposed string, tube, paratrooper (chip) board, tube, exposed string, knot.

At each far end of a tube you want about 1/2 in. of exposed string between the tube and knot.

Repeat the threading procedure for each of the three strings.

When you are done you should have 6 shroud lines coming off the top of the paratrooper chip board.

Step 5: Glue the Paratrooper to the Base

Use hot glue to fasten the paratrooper body to the round base.

Hot glue the 1/4" x 20 Steel Nut to the bottom of the base.

[CAUTION - Choking Hazard - Make sure your steel nut is securely fastened to the bottom of the base. And the base securely fastened to the body of the paratrooper. You don't want the nut or anything else coming off and dropping into your mouth as you get ready to launch the paratrooper.]

Glue the images of the paratrooper (printed from the internet) onto both sides of the chip board.

Step 6: Cut Out the Parachute Canopy

Take a thin plastic (grocery) bag and cut it so it will lay flat.

Trace a circle onto the plastic bag using a template and pen. I used a 8 in. dia. spool.

Carefully cut out the parachute canopy.

Step 7: Mark the Canopy and Attach the Shroud Lines

Take a protractor and mark the locations where the shroud lines will be attached. Since there are 6 shroud lines they need to be spaced 60 degrees apart (360 degrees in a circle / 6 shroud lines = 60 degrees apart).

Carefully maneuver the shroud lines into place and attach them to the canopy with self-adhesive tape.

The knot faces toward the center of the canopy.

The knot should extend out from under the tape to prevent the string from slipping out from under the tape.

It can take some gyrations to get all the shroud lines into position and taped but have patience and work carefully.

Step 8: Load the Blow Gun

Take the circumference of the canopy and wrap it around the plastic tubes. Twist the tip a bit more to reduce the diameter of the parachute. Carefully insert the parachute into the PVC pipe. It should slide easily without binding.

Push in the shroud lines (tubes) followed by the paratrooper and push the nut-end into the tube as far as you can with your finger.

You are now ready to launch!

Step 9: Launch Your Paratrooper

Find an open area with little wind.

Take your preloaded blow gun and aim toward the sky.

Give a hard puff of air to launch your paratrooper skyward.

Watch him float back to earth.

Retrieve and Repeat.... Retrieve and Repeat... Retrieve and Repeat (You get the idea).

Enjoy and have fun!

.

An encore presentation of the slo-mo:

Note that the slo-mo can be a bit deceiving. The parachute probably went about 15 feet high and fell quickly to the ground. (It occured to me I should try it without the steel nut for possibly longer hang time.)

Lower height and quick turnaround time makes this paratrooper ideal for small yards and small children, and you can safely launch in a breeze.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Blowgun Launched Toy Parachute: Blowgun Launched Toy ParachuteThere are a couple of 'problems' with toy parachutes....1. How to get them up in the air.2. The shroud lines always get tangled.Well, this Instructables hopes to address both issues. [ Slow motion of a launch f...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
A lot of the fun of upcycling is seeing what you can transform into something entirely different. These DIY Handbag Ideas have this transformational element in spades. From Leather Boots to Suit Jackets you'll be amazed what you can make fabulously original and unique handbags out of!

Handbags made from Old Books

You may wish to debate this one - as in 'should you really be destroying books to make handbags?' Discuss.

However, we can imagine a scenario where you spilt a cup of coffee on the pages of an old book but the cover remained in tact...or perhaps a moth, mouse, goat, etc took a bite out of the pages, in which case it only makes sense to try to reuse what's left.

Okay we'll leave the moral dilemma on this one to you, but if you love this idea as much as we did, you will want to have a look at the short tutorial video we found from Curbly.

Here's a hint - it involves a whole lot of fabric glue!

Shirt turned bag

Most shirts on their own will be too thin to make a bag out of, but if you add a lining you can make a cute and light tote bag for your bits and bobs like this lovely donut print bag.

Elizabeth Chaney from @iheartartstudioe made this tote handbag from an old shirt she found at a thrift store for $4.

She loved the print but the shirt didn't actually fit her. So she took the shirt apart, and cut out the tote sides from the front and back panels of the shirt.

The pieces from the front of the shirt required a seam to create a rectangle large enough for the tote.

Both sides of the tote are identical, the pockets were cut from the sleeves of the shirt.

Elizabeth already had matching pink cotton fabric in her stash and she used this to create the lining for the bag, pockets and the straps.

The bag measures about 16 inches wide and 13 inches tall.

We think it is super sweet so we reached out and asked Elizabeth if we could share it - thankfully she said yes so here it is. You can find her on instagram here.

We've got lots more DIY Upcycled Tote Bag Ideas here - including another bag made from a man's shirt!

Football (Soccer Ball) Designer Bag

Thomas Casadei della Chiesa of PangaeA Bags creates these gorgeous bags from old footballs that aren't any good for playing with anymore. He gave us an insider look into how they are made in his guest blog which you can find here. It includes an amazing time lapse video of the construction process.

Is this a genuine DIY handbag idea? We are not going to pretend these would be an easy one for you to recreate yourself, but perhaps it will inspire you to put your own twist on it?

Bags MAde from WRAPPERS

What better upcycle project than to use actual rubbish to make something amazing.

The examples above are candy bar wrappers (the woven one), crisp/chip bags, and the third one is dyed tetra pack packaging.

We thought the first one was especially intriguing, so we had a look to see if we could find someone who could explain how to make the links easily. We found this video by Retro Faerie Craft Tutorials that tells you everything you need to know to get started.

FROM Suit Jacket to HIPSTER BAGs

Who doesn't love a classic wool or tweed bag? But that fabric if bought new is pretty pricey.

So what a genius idea to reuse old suit jackets as bags, either pretty much in tact - check out the Pocketo example above! - or in pieces, definitely the more subtle and understated way to go with this.

The obvious DIY tip for this is to preserve the pockets as you are cutting your fabric/suit jacket and reuse them in strategic places on your bag. Now all you have to do is convince the husband he won't wear that one again and he might as well let you cut it up!

Bags Made From Belts

If you found a load of old belts in the wardrobe while you were hunting out suit jackets for that last one, you could try using them as the material for your new bag.

To do it use a drill or leather punch to create holes along the edges of your belts so you can sew them together. Then sew or glue a lining to the back side of your belts and use another belt (or two) for the strap.

Bag Made from Leather Boots

Photos: Upcycle My Stuff

There are actually a lot of ways you can go with upcycling your boots into handbags.

Depending on the type of leather your boots are made up of you can actually make up to 4 purses or handbags with one pair of boots.

It all depends on what size you want your handbags to be. You can use the long calf section of each boot to make two narrow but long purses - the perfect size for a kindle, iPhone or ladies wallet. Or you could cut along the seam of your two calf pieces and attach them together to make a larger handbag. This method means more tough sewing through leather so we don't recommend this method if you are working with very thick or rigid leather.

Another ideas is to use one of the calf pieces to make a foldover style purse like we've done with the one pictured above - click here for the tutorial.

We are also experimenting with ways to use the shoe part of the boot to make some smaller clutch handbags. But that's for a future post so make sure to subscribe for updates if you are interested in that one.

Bags made from old Jeans

Don't fancy sewing through leather? Do you think you could handle denim?

There are loads of DIY handbag ideas using denim and old jeans! Who doesn't have a pair of ripped or ill fitting jeans sitting around they couldn't try this with?

We even found this site that has measurements for the panels needed to make different shape bags.

So cut your jeans up one seam on each leg, lay them out flat and then cut them as if they were any other fabric.

Denim is strong so you can use it for the straps as well.

You can go patchwork, add some lace, or combine more than one pair of jeans too.

We love the example above from with the two waist bands, which as a bonus means two sets of outer pockets! You could also add a fun print to the lining inside to make it extra unique to you.

You can find our full tutorial for the bag in the top image (with the grey & yellow tree fabric) here - it uses an upcycled leather belt as well as old jeans and scrap fabrics.

You can also find our tutorial for the bag in the last image of a large handbag made from an old denim skirt here.

Coffee Sacs Transformed into bags

Coffee Sacs and Burlap are a trendy option these days for a lot of craft projects. And we think these bags look lush.

The trick for these ones is cutting and sewing the sac/burlap so it doesn't unravel.

Painted Furniture Ideas has some tips for this here.

A lining fabric for these bags is essential and you can find some tips for bag linings and internal bag pockets here.

The bags in the last image were made by a fab upcycling business Moorlands Upcycling. You can find more brilliant upcycling businesses in our Business Directory.

Cardboard Bags!

We are warning you right now for this DIY handbag idea that if you don't varnish or otherwise coat this one it will not stand up to the rain! But how fab to make a handbag out of the scads and scads of cardboard that end up in your recycling bin every week?

There is a brilliant how to guide here, although it didn't mention what kind of varnish to use. We think this one would work.

We reckon you could decoupage these bags as well to make them even more personal and to make them unrecognisable as cardboard. ....So many ideas, so little time!

We hope you've enjoyed these DIY Handbag Ideas, if you are looking for more upcycling inspiration check out our bumper post on what upcycling is and what you can upcycle - it's organised by all the different 'stuff' you can upcycle so it's a great jumping off point for your next project.

If you liked it, Pin It!

Here are some more posts you might also enjoy:

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
DIY Handbag Ideas - 10 Upcycled Bags you can Make Yourself

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
A lot of the fun of upcycling is seeing what you can transform into something entirely different. These DIY Handbag Ideas have this transformational element in spades. From Leather Boots to Suit Jackets you'll be amazed what you can make fabulously original and unique handbags out of!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Recycled Paper Basket

I've been listing craft ideas that are fun, green, and therapeutic and I can't wait to share them with you all! I'm starting off with this woven recycled paper basket. You can use any kind of leftover paper to craft this basket. This recycled paper basket project is undoubtedly a fun family craft project to try out any weekend.

If you're looking for a nice start to your therapeutic craft journey this recycled paper basket would be a great project! It involves recycling, weaving and you get yourself a woven basket that can be used for string so many things or simply as a decor! You can also involve the kids to teach them a little about weaving.

List of Supplies

Learn to Weave a Paper Basket!

Preparing the Paper Strips

Firstly, we need to prepare our paper strips. This is a very important step because we need to prepare an even number of strips of the same length and width. Keep in mind that we need an even number (which will still have an even number of strips after diving into 2 groups) of paper strips (a minimum of 8) to weave this basket pattern. We then will have to divide the strips into 2 even-numbered groups. For this tutorial, we are using a total of 8 strips; dividing them into 2 even groups of 4 strips. The strips I am using were scrap papers from A4 sheets. These are 11 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. I then did 3 even folds lengthwise to prepare the strips for weaving.

Getting Started!

Grab any 2 paper strips and mark their middle part with a pen or pencil. Place the strips on a flat surface criss-cross wise.

Weaving the first Strip

Take 3 paper strips and place them side by side with the vertical strip but making sure to keep the pattern over and under with the horizontal strip.

Weaving the Base

Now grab the 3 other strips and weave them over and under horizontally to form the square bottom base. make sure to keep the weave nice and adjacent.

Marking the Bottom Base

This is very important. Use a pen or pencil to draw another square inside the bottom base square by joining the middle points of each of its lines. The smaller square is going to be the actual bottom base of the basket. Make folds along the small square lines to create creases.

Starting the Weaving

Let's flip the woven piece to the other side. We will start the weaving with any 2 middle strips.

Weaving Over and Under

Hold any 2 middle strips and weave one over the other one (the strip which is under its previous strip should be woven over). Bring it over the next strip and pull them together by 90 degrees.

One Corner Done!

Now, weave the next strips over and under. As each side has 4 strips, you can weave the 4 strips over and under for now to form the corner of the basket.

Secure the Woven Side

Use a clothespin to secure the woven part. One by one weave the 3 other sides over and under to form the rest of the corners of the basket.

The Bottom Base

This is how the bottom side of the basket would look like after weaving all 4 corners of the basket.

All 4 Sides Woven Up

Once the corners are formed, continue to weave over and under.

Keep Weaving Over and Under

Keep weaving until the basket reaches its required height or until there is enough length of the strips left.

Weave in the Open Ends

Make sure that at least half an inch of the shortest strip is left while weaving. the shortest strip will determine the height of the basket. carefully find out the shortest strip and tuck it inside. Now carefully and one by one tuck the rest of the strips inside by keeping the height aligned with the shortest strip.

Secure the Top End to Complete

Apply glue on the tucked-in open ends to secure the weave.

Wasn't that fun! And they look super cute! You can make them into any size and store almost anything.

Don't forget to share a picture with us if you craft one! We'd love to see your version of this recycled paper basket (You can share your picture with hashtag #craftaholicwitch or just DM your picture to us on Instagram.

If you are interested in recycled craft projects, explore our extensive list of recycling projects for both adults and kids.

Happy Crafting!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Recycled Paper Basket Weaving ( Easy Step-by-Step Tutorial )

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
I've been listing craft ideas that are fun, green, and therapeutic and I can't wait to share them with you all! I'm starting off with this woven recycled paper basket. You can use any kind of leftover paper to craft this basket.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Genius Craft | Cardboard spiral Marble Machin...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Cardboard spiral Marble Machine via Liberman

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Wood & Yarn Weaving, Home Decor

Hey all,

To tell about the story behind this instructable..

I have been admiring stick weaves for a while now and I finally decided to try it out. This is also really great for those who want to get into weaving, but don't own a loom just yet. It's a perfect free loom to play around on. I really like the texture of the stick next to the soft woven textures of yarn. And it wasn't too hard to make either.

And Branch weaving is sort of a combination of yarn bombing and a dream catcher. It is different and fun to be able to bring an item from nature into the home as an art piece.

All of the patterns used in this weaving project are very basic and easy. They are good for a beginner, even a child with some prior weaving experience.

If you'd like to try weaving on a stick, what i did has been described in this instructable. Kindly read through it.
And at the end of this tutorial, if the making in this instructable has impressed you - Do vote for me :)
Supplies:

Tree branches, preferably Y branch. And there are weaving possible with individual sticks tied together.

Warp threads, White and Black

Various colored yarns

Scissor

Fork(optional)

Big size needle. If you have a tapestry needle, it would be good.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

STEM Contest

Role Playing Game Challenge

Cardboard Speed Challenge

Step 1: Small Story Behind the Tree Branches

It was during the recent rain during November 2020 (actually it started early this time, at October) there was a huge rainfall and bigger cyclones. And i had to cut down some tree branches from my neighbor's mango tree slightly tilted on our house. So saved these branches during the rainy days.

During January 2021, i started to clean up and trim these branches and make it ready to do some decor as and when the time permits.

So the Time has come now :D

Pictures added in this step describes clearly the process involved in bringing the branches to the shape. And usually people work on the rough tree branch. But here i have used a polished tree branch.

Here are the steps i followed to get the branches to a shape:

1. Trim the branches.

2. Pull out the barks.

3. Rub with sand paper, to get rough polished look.

4. Remove bigger edges, so that the branch can fit straight when mounted on the wall.

5. Varnish it.

Step 2:

Tie the end of the thread on the closed end of 'V' of the bottom branch. Stretch it up to the top branch and wrap it around once before stretching it to the opposite (top) branch.

Continue all the way along the branches until you reach the end or where you want to stop.

Tie off the thread in a knot and trim the extra length with scissors.

Step 3: Weaving Patterns

The branch I chose is approximately - 15-16 inches (from the start of the yarn to the end of the yarn on the bottom branch).

Here i have done, two methods of yarn weaving:

1. Full weaving(using full length of the warp thread)

2. Partial weaving(using random length of the warp thread, to make the weaving as per the shape we want).

Step 4:

Pull your warp thread across to the second branch and wrap the warp all the way around it (Your warp thread will cross the branches). So you'll pull the warp across from one branch to the other, loop around the branch once, then bring the warp thread from the bottom of the second branch to the top of the first branch.

Then the pattern repeats, loop around the branch, bring the warp thread from the bottom across to the top of the opposite branch and loop around.

Continue in this way until you run out of space on your branches. Your warp threads probably won't be uniform, but that is part of the fun!

Step 5: Full Weaving - Rainbow Theme

Now using a needle you can weave across the warp threads as you normally would.

And for the rainbow theme, i used the rainbow colors in the below pattern:

x o x o x o x o x o
o x o x o x o x o x

[x = over ; o = under ]

Color order:

Violet - repeat sequence 5 times (10 total rows)

Indigo - repeat sequence 4 times (8 total rows)

Sky blue - repeat sequence 4 times (8 total rows)

Green - repeat sequence 4 times (8 total rows)

Yellow - repeat sequence 4 times (8 total rows)

Orange - repeat sequence 4 times (8 total rows)

Red - repeat sequence 6 times (12 total rows)
You can use a fork to tighten your weave at any time if you can't get it tight enough with your fingers. When you run out of thread and start a new piece don't worry about knotting them. You will weave those strays into the back of the weave at the very end. The rows will be tight enough that the yarn won't come out.

Step 6: Partial Weaving - Black Hole Theme

I am a space enthusiast and have been observing news about black hole as well. So i wanted to make one weaving in the theme of black hole. Not almost the same structure as the black hole (and black hole is indefinite structure, and there are lot more undiscovered also), but somewhat close to the first ever image of the black hole. I hope i did so :)

For this theme, i do not want bright colors. And wanted to make it with bold colors with definite borders though have used dark shades of similar colors.And the warp thread used is black as well.

Below are the list of colors used, in a ring format:

Beetroot purple

Light maroon

Coffee Brown

Grey

Center part, of course in black!

After doing the weaving, i rolled up the weaved threads with the same color so that they look tightly weaved.

Step 7:

Hang/stick it on the wall and admire your art!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Wood & Yarn Weaving, Home Decor: Hey all,To tell about the story behind this instructable..I have been admiring stick weaves for a while now and I finally decided to try it out. This is also really great for those who want to get into weaving, but don't own a loom just yet.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Card Stock Glider / Planeador De Cartulina

I made this glider for a video in the City of STEM science festival (Los Angeles, 2021). I thank the Columbia Memorial Space Center for allowing me to participate.

Este planeador hice para un video en un festival de ciencia, City of STEM (Los Ángeles, 2021). Agradezco a los organizadores del Columbia Memorial Space Center por dejarme participar en el evento.

Supplies:

-Sheet of card stock (8.5" x 11", 65 lb. weight) / Una hoja de cartulina (8.5" x 11", peso 65 libras)

-No. 1 paper clip / Un clip tamaño número 1

-Glue stick / Pegamento en barra

-Scissors / Tijeras

-Hobby knife / Cuchillo de hobby

-Ruler / Regla

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

STEM Contest

Role Playing Game Challenge

Cardboard Speed Challenge

Step 1: Print / Imprimir

Print or photocopy the plans onto card stock. To create a more interesting look, use two sheets of complementary colors and mix the components. / Imprima los planes usando una impresora o fotocopiadora. Para hacer un planeador que tiene impacto visual, use dos hojas que son de colores complementarios y mezclar componentes.

Step 2: Cut / Cortar

Do it carefully! / ¡Hágalo cuidadosamente!

Step 3: Make Creases on All Dotted Lines / Doblar Parcialmente Todas Líneas De Puntos

This will define the wing roots, the horizontal stabilizers, the horizontal stabilizers, the elevators, the rudder, and the center of the wings. /

Esto hace para definir los raíces de las alas, las estabilizadoras horizontales, los elevadores, el timón de dirección, y el centro de las alas.

Step 4: Assemble the Fuselage / Montar El Fuselage

Apply glue to an interior side of one of the principle fuselage pieces, but don't get glue on the wing roots, stabilizers, or last 1/2" of the tail (where the fin will located). United the halves. Apply glue to the outer layers of the fuselage and attach them to the main component. Put the whole thing under a heavy book for about 10 minutes. Apply glue to the fin and insert it between the horizontal stabilizers. /

Aplique pegamento a la mitad interior de uno de los dos partes principales del fuselaje, pero aplique pegamento no en las áreas de los raíces de las alas, las estabilizadoras, o el último 1/2" de la cola (dónde se colocará la aleta). Una las dos mitades. Aplique pegamento a las láminas exteriores del fuselage y sujétalos al componente principal. Ponga el fuselage bajo un libro grande y espera unos 10 minutos. Aplique pegamento a la aleta y colóquela entre las estabilizadoras horizontales.

Step 5: Wings / Las Alas

Give the wing some undercamber. There are a few ways to do this. I usually use the edge of a desk. Applying pressure with my fingers, I slide the piece toward me and push it down slightly as it overhangs. I repeat this many times, shaping the form in small increments. Next, add glue to the spar and attach it to the top of the wing. Make the wing slightly dihedral. Lastly, apply glue to the wing roots and attach the wing. /

Dé a las alas un poco de forma concúrva (undercamber). Hay varias maneras de hacer esto. Yo suelo usar el borde de un escritorio. Mientreas aplicando un poco de presión encima de las alas, paso las alas por el borde hasta que sobresalgan. Repito este proceso muchas veces, creando la forma poco a poco. Para continuar, aplique pegamento al laguero y sujételo encima de las alas. Usando una regla, cree un poco de dihedro. Finalmente, aplique pegamento a los raíces de las alas y sujéte las alas al fuselaje.

Step 6: Finishing Touches / Toques Finales

If you have not already done so, you can use a white pencil to shade in the windscreen. Now place the paper clip over the nose, allowing it to protrude about 3/8". Finally, check the whole glider for symmetry. Even very small imperfections can affect the flight significantly. /

Si no lo hizo ya, puede usar un lápiz blanco para colorear la cubierta de la cabina. Ahora coloque el clip en la nariz, dejando que se proyecte como 3/8". Finalmente, revise todo el planeador y intente corregir cualquier falta de simetría. Incluso imperfecciones muy pequeños afectarán los vuelos del planeador.

Step 7: [Optional] Watch / Mira

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
Card Stock Glider / Planeador De Cartulina

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Card Stock Glider / Planeador De Cartulina: I made this glider for a video in the City of STEM science festival (Los Angeles, 2021). I thank the Columbia Memorial Space Center for allowing me to participate.Este planeador hice para un video en un festival de ciencia, City of STEM (Los Ángeles...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Embroidered Notebook Covers

This instructable combines string art, embroidery and geometry. I opted for geometric theme, but there are many other options. You can find a lot of different patterns online, just look for string art examples. To complete this project, all you need is a notebook, compass, protractor, ruler, embroidery floss or doubled thread, needle, superglue and scotch tape. If you don't want to play around with instruments, you can just print out a pattern and use it as a guide.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

STEM Contest

Role Playing Game Challenge

Cardboard Speed Challenge

Step 2: Pattern 1

This one is the simplest pattern, doesn't require any tools to draw it, except for checkered paper. You can make the holes spaces as wide or as tight as you want. To embroider it properly, just follow the numbers on the chart.

Step 4: Pattern 3

Three different patterns, can be applied separately or together, one in top of another, each pattern different color. Just follow the numbers.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Embroidered Notebook Covers : This instructable combines string art, embroidery and geometry. I opted for geometric theme, but there are many other options. You can find a lot of different patterns online, just look for string art examples. To complete this project, all you need...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Requirements
Create a 3 dimensional sculpture with cardboard. Use different cardboard attachment techniques along with tape and hot glue to create a sturdy sculpture. Try using various types of cardboard (visible corrugation, with print, without print, etc. and consider including a little mixed media (optional). Make sure your attachment methods are not visible. You can make a portrait, an object (enlarged or actual size), an animal, food, etc. Think of something that will make an interesting sculpture. Do not make anything that is cubed or prism shaped (i.e. dice, rubik's cube, etc). Be creative and try not to replicate an idea you find online.

answer and explain reflection questions when turning in Grading: 25 points
10 points: create a 3 dimensional cardboard sculpture (attention paid to all viewpoints) made with quality and craftsmanship
5 points: u se a variety of cardboard attachment techniques to create a sturdy sculpture
5 points: attachment methods not visible (glue, tape, glue gun, etc.)
2 points: name is clearly marked on the bottom or back of the piece
3 points:

*-2 points if turned in late

Using flat slabs to build up or out

Building with slotted pieces

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Requirements Create a 3 dimensional sculpture with cardboard. Use different cardboard attachment techniques along with tape and hot glue to create a sturdy sculpture. Try using various types of cardboard (visible corrugation, with print, without print, etc. and consider including a little mixed media (optional). Make sure your attachment methods are not visible.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: How to Make a 3D Printable Bracelet Using Tinkercad!

A simple guide to designing and assembling a 3D printed bracelet chain using Tinkercad.

This should show you all you need to know to make a basic link chain and give you the foundation you need to make many more interesting and exciting pieces of jewellery!

This is aimed at beginners to Tinkercad and uses only the simple shapes readily available in the basic shapes library.

Supplies:

Tinkercad

Filament (I prefer PLA for this)

A 3D printer! Or someone to print it for you - there are many companies who will print your designs for you too.
(Optional) Watch Pins - I will be assembling everything using only pieces of 1.75mm filament but if you want something sturdier, watch pins would be a great option. You'll have to consider their measurements when making the holes in step 4 though.

Step 1: Make the Base for Your Outer Link!

Once you've signed into Tinkercad you'll need to create a new project, you can name your project by clicking the auto generated name in the top left corner and typing into the text box.

First thing you'll need is a box from the basic shapes library found on the right side of the page.

Resize your box to be the size you want each link on your bracelet to be by selecting it and either clicking and dragging the white squares or clicking a white square and then typing in the measurements you want for each side.

Mine is 15x15mm and I made it 4mm tall so I will have space to put a hole through it for pins - adjust to your needs! You should have something that looks along the lines of the picture when finished.

Step 2: Turn That Box Into Your Outer Link!

Add two box holes from the basic shapes library

Resize them until they are a suitable size for your project, I made mine 9mmx9mm. Height doesn't matter so long as it's at least as tall as your link.

Now place the box holes so that they overlap your link on both sides as pictured - make sure to leave a gap in the middle, the bigger the gap, the stronger your links will be. Here I left 5mm between the two holes.

Once you're happy with the placement, select all three boxes and group them together (this button is highlighted in the 2nd picture or you can press ctrl+G) - you should now have something that looks like the 3rd image.
The align tool may be helpful in positioning your pieces - this is also highlighted in the 2nd image

Step 3: Make the Inner Part of the Link

Bring in another box from the basic shapes library

Resize it so it's the same height as the outer part but will fit inside it as pictured. In my case, the outer part had a 9x5mm gap in it so I made this piece 7x10mm

You should find that if you copy and paste another outer piece, they fit around each other nicely as in the 2nd picture.

Step 4: Make Some Holes!

Bring in a cylindrical hole from the basic shapes library.

Rotate so it's lying along the work plane and resize it so it's a suitable size for your project, mine will have a diameter of 2mm so I can use 1.75mm filament to join the links but adjust this as needed. (see picture for an example)
(This may be something you need to trial and come back to depending on how precise your printer is)
You'll need 4 of these cylinders so once you've got it resized, just copy and paste it. (picture 2)

Step 5: Place Those Holes

Lay out 2 outer links with 2 inner links on the work plane and position them as you'd like them to be in the finished bracelet - see 1st picture for guidance.

Next, place the holes where you want them - make sure they're not too close to the edge of the links or they'll be a weak point.

You should have something that looks like the second picture (it looks like 3 holes but that's because 2 are in exactly the same spot (I've highlighted the spot where you'll need 2) this will make sense in the next step.
Again, the align tool may be helpful here!

Step 6: Make the Holes Actual Holes!

Now you've got your placement sorted, you'll need to select the two holes that go through the middle link as well as the middle link itself and group them.

Then you'll need to select one of the inner links and the two holes that go through that and group those too - this is why we have 2 holes in the same spot as one is used for the outer piece and one for the inner one!

You can then delete the other links and you should be left with something that looks like the 2nd picture.

Step 7: Print!

I'm not going to give detailed instructions on how to print because it'll depend entirely on your printer and filament etc. but I'll make a few recommendations!

Print in PLA or something that copes with bridges well - you don't want to be trying to remove supports from 2mm holes in tiny pieces - so long as you don't print too fast and have your cooling on, you should be fine without supports.

These are small pieces so you may have trouble with them coming unstuck from the bed. If cleaning and relevelling the bed doesn't sort it, try printing with a raft or brim and slow down the first layer or 2.

If you're feeling fancy, I think this looks great when you use different colours for the inner and outer links!

Step 8: Assemble!

Once your pieces are printed and you've removed your brim or raft if you needed one, it's time to start putting it all together!

This is fairly simple but can be a little fiddly

Take 1 of your outer links and 1 inner link and fit them together

Cut a piece of filament a little longer than the outer link and pass it through both pieces as shown in picture one.

Repeat the process adding an inner then outer link until your bracelet is the desired length

Finish by trimming any excess filament off the edges, it should now look something like picture 2 - Well done! You just designed, printed and assembled your own bracelet!

Step 9: YOU DID IT!

Brilliant, you made a bracelet using Tinkercad, printed and assembled it!!

If you're looking for more ideas, why not try experimenting with printing in different colours or try making different shapes fit together using the same concept now you've got the basics down - here's a zig-zag style one I made too!

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Pi Day Speed Challenge

Trash to Treasure Contest

Sculpt & Carve Challenge

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to Make a 3D Printable Bracelet Using Tinkercad!

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
How to Make a 3D Printable Bracelet Using Tinkercad!: A simple guide to designing and assembling a 3D printed bracelet chain using Tinkercad.This should show you all you need to know to make a basic link chain and give you the foundation you need to make many more interesting and exciting pieces of jew...

# data[].attributes.body
I could see this easily being adapted for laser cutting.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Tinfoil Embossed Artwork

There are museums that display metal pieces made by man in ancient times like weapons, coins, etc.

In most cases these are original pieces of metals such as silver, gold, platinum, etc.

There are also expressions of modern art for houses, with a combination of wood and replica of metals such as silver.

In this instructable I will describe step by step how to make a piece of wallart using simple materials like MDF and aluminum tinfoil.

Join this project and enjoy it!

Let's get started...

PS1: My special consideration to all the people who are suffering from COVID-19. I really hope that the whole world can get vaccinated as soon as possible, particularly the elderly and all those who have more severe risks.

PS2: English is not my native language. My apologies for mistakes in writing ;)

Supplies:

- Wooden MDF 18 mm.

- Wooden MDF 9 mm.

- Wooden MDF 5 mm.

- Aluminum Tinfoil.

- PLA filament (I used white. You can use another color if you prefer).

- Black paint Spray.

- Glue.

- Glue Spray.

- Glue Epoxy.

- Sandpaper.

- Tow or cloth.

- Wood paper.

- Any metal piece to hang the picture.

- black shoe polish paste.
Tools:
- 3D printer (min. dimens. 200 x 200 mm).

- Metalic ruler.

- Metal square.

- Table saw.

- Bench jigsaw.

- Bench sander.

- Scissor.

- Drawing compass

- Embossing tools (metallic circular ball diameter 3 or 4 mm / various plastic type).

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

Make it Glow Contest

First Time Author Contest

Microcontroller Contest

Step 1: Design.

The design is very simple. I did plans using fusion 360 (https://www.autodesk.com)

The size of the finished work is 30 cm x 30 cm. Frames are 5cm wide each with a 45 degree bevel finish.

The "similar metallic" piece is a disc 19 cm in diameter. To build it we will use aluminum tinfoil with embossing technique using a plastic printed 3d stencil-type piece.

We shape the metal to be embossed using 3 layers of tinfoil glued together (see step below).

For the design I used a JPG image and proceeded to vectorize it using the tracing tool of the MOHO drawing / animation software (https://www.mohoanimation.com), exporting it to "svg" format.

With "svg" format I imported in fusion360 and proceeded to extrude the silhouette with a thickness of 1.8 mm.

This design is attached ready to import in programs like CURA, and proceed to 3d printing.

Alternatively, you can choice other design and follow the same vector image procedure using even other software such as Photoshop, etc.

NOTE: you can download in this link the stl file (stencil auxiliary piece) to print 3d (see parameters I used in step number 3)
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoZa4oXuD3mOgosxEgiAXdvjJo5XQQ?e=qygKAx

Step 2: Construction of the Wooden Frame.

You can use any mechanical cutting tool to cut the wood (in my case I used table saw and bench jigsaw).

- Cut 4 rectangles 30 cm x 5 cm with 18 mm MDF.

- Very precisely cut the bezels at 45 degrees.

- Cut 1 square MDF 20cm x 20cm with 9 mm MDF.

- Cut 1 disc diameter 19 cm with 5 mm MDF.

- Improve the outer perimeter of the 19 cm diameter wooden disc, using a bench sander as seen in the photo.

- Place glue on the bezels at 45 degrees from the rectangular 18 mm MDF pieces.

- Place glue on the four sides of the 20 cm x 20 cm rectangle 9 mm MDF piece.

- Group the whole assembly to its final position and press firmly using tools such as those in the photo or any method that ensures the perfect bonding of the assembly.

- Let dry.

- Proceed to sand the entire assembly to remove glue residues, etc.

- Apply putty if necessary, let it dry and then proceed to sand before painting.

- The final finish of the frame will be black matte paint applied in a spray.

- Before painting make sure that the piece is free of dust and dirt.

- Apply two coats of paint, allowing it to dry properly between each application.

- After drying, on the back of the painting, glue a 30 x 30 cm wooden paper.

- Once dry, apply any wall hanging device.

Step 3: Construction of the "similar Metallic" Piece.

a) 3d printing plastic stencil auxiliary piece:
- Print with a 3d printer (or if you do not have it, order from a store).

- For printing I used white PLA filament, and the following parameters:
*Speed 60 mm/seg. *Bed temperature 65g. *Extruder temperature 200g. *filling 70%. b) Glued the stencil auxiliary piece to the 19 cm diameter 9 mm MDF wooden disc.
- Glue the 3d printed stencil piece to the 19 cm diameter MDF 9 mm wooden disc using epoxy glue.

- Press the set using presses as seen in the photos and allow to dry.
c) Construction of a three-layer of tinfoil.
- Cut with a metal ruler or scissors 3 sheets of aluminum thinfoil measuring 27 cm x 27 cm.

- Make sure the sheets are as neat and taut as possible.

- If necessary, firmly apply a straight plastic element such as a credit card or wood to smooth it.

- Aluminum Tinfoil usually has a "glossy" side and a "matte" side.

- Using spray glue, apply on the shiny side of one of the sheets.

- Lay the second sheet on top of the other with its shiny side up.

- Apply spray glue on this side and lay the third sheet on top of the other.

- Trim off any excess tinfoil.

- To ensure proper bonding and removal of air, use any ready-made wood / plastic items to firmly apply even pressure in several directions.

- Once this is done, press with a cloth or tow making circular movements.

- Let the trilayer dry.
d) Glued the tinfoil trilayer to the set of 3d stencil and 19 cm diameter MDF disc.
- Lay the tinfoil trilayer with its glossy side down and the matte side up.

- Center the set of 3d stencil and 19 cm diameter MDF disc.

- Twist off the excess tinfoil trilayer and lay it firmly on the wood.

- Trim the excess tinfoil trilayer a bit and apply some epoxy glue or similar.

Step 4: ​Embossed.

This step is the heart of this instructable :)

- Keep the stencil design close to you as a guide.

- With the help of the fingers of the hand look for sectors where there are cutouts in the stencil piece.

- Using a tool like the figure, press down and around the perimeter of each hole with gentle movements so as not to hurt the thinfoil.

- Repeat the procedure until all the holes are complete, following the stencil design to guide the shape and location of the holes.

- Use a tool like the figure to more precisely mark the edges of each of the cutouts.

- Repeat the procedure very carefully until finished.

- To give the finished metal piece a more realistic finish, apply a small amount of black shoe polish with a cloth and apply circular motions.

Step 5: Final Assembly.

- Apply a good amount of glue on the "similar metallic" piece built in the previous step.

- Also apply glue on the wooden base where the piece will be placed.

- With the help of a press or heavy items such as books, etc. keep the assembly firm so that a perfect bond is produced.

- If you came to this place on the instructable and also built this piece of art, now is the time to fix it to the wall and enjoy the finished work:

- Choose a wall in your house to install it.

- In my case I made a hole in the wall and installed a fisher wall plug S5 (choose the right model for your type of wall). Height from the floor approximately 1.65 / 1.75 m.

- Then I put in a 2.5mm self drilling screw.

Surprise your family and friends by asking what material your work is made of :)

Step 6: Final Words.

That's all for this project!

We have created a work of art with a very low cost !!

If you like it, be sure to create another similar model with another design of your choice and hang it in pairs.

I hope you enjoyed this instructable as much as I have enjoyed it.

If you have any question ask them in the comments below!

I would also love to hear what you think about the project.

Happy making!
cfb70
PS1: if you like the project, please vote for this and choose it as a favorite == THANKS ==

PS2/Credits: Cerebro photo created by jcomp - www.freepik.es

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Tinfoil Embossed Artwork: There are museums that display metal pieces made by man in ancient times like weapons, coins, etc. In most cases these are original pieces of metals such as silver, gold, platinum, etc.There are also expressions of modern art for houses, with a comb...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: Hydraulic Craft Stick Box

Like some kind of magic, the hydraulic box smoothly opens with the press of a syringe. This project is a great way to discuss the power of hydraulics, and create a treasured keepsake that can store small things!

Watch the video, or check out the step-by-step directions.

You can find the lesson plan, 1-page project sheet, and more project ideas at STEM-Inventions.com

Supplies:

Step 1: Create the Sides

The easiest way to create the 6 sides of the box is to first line up a row of 12 craft sticks on a flat surface, then hot glue two more sticks to the ends. This is much faster than gluing the sticks together one-by-one!

Step 2: Assemble the Bottom and 3 Sides

Use craft cubes and hot glue to assemble four of the side pieces as shown. Only create 3 side pieces for now. If you assemble all 4 then it'll be more difficult to make the hinge and install the hydraulic system.

Step 3: Create the Hinge and Lid

To make the hinge, first cut or break a 1/8" dowel to fit the width of the box. Next, thread four cubes with holes onto the dowel piece, then glue the outermost cubes to the inside corners of the box as shown.

Prepare an attachment point for the lid by gluing two regular cubes onto the innermost hinge cubes as shown.

To make the lid, cut away two craft sticks from one of the remaining side pieces. Glue the lid onto the hinge attachment cubes.

Step 4: Create the Hydraulic System

Fill one syringe with water, then attach the tubing.

Next push water through the tubing to remove the air, then refill the syringe with 10ml of water. The syringe and tubing should have little to no air in it.

Attach the other empty syringe to the tubing, then snap on the syringe adapter.

Step 5: Install the Hydraulic System to the Bottom of the Box

Hot glue a cube with holes to the bottom center of the box near the edge.

Then strap the nozzle of the syringe to the cube with a cable tie. Make sure to tie it tightly, but avoid constricting the flow of water through the tubing.

Step 6: Attach the Hydraulics to the Lid

Glue a craft stick onto the lid about 3-stick-widths from the front of the lid, then cable tie the syringe adapter to that stick.

Test it out! If the box doesn't close all the way, then you'll need to attach the syringe closer to the front of the lid.

Step 7: Finish the Box

Glue on the remaining side piece, careful not to pinch the tubing.

Optional: Glue on additional sticks to cover up the gaps at the corners and near the hinge. The box is done!

1 Person Made This Project!

Recommendations

Hand Tools Only Challenge

Modify It Speed Challenge

Remix Contest

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
Hydraulic Craft Stick Box: Like some kind of magic, the hydraulic box smoothly opens with the press of a syringe. This project is a great way to discuss the power of hydraulics, and create a treasured keepsake that can store small things!Watch the video, or check out the step...

# data[].attributes.body
This link goes to one video, but this Youtuber has many great drawing tutorials.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
How to draw A flying girl with birds || Pencil sketch for beginners ||  Uçan bir kız nasıl çizilir

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
Introduction: DIY Yarn Art | Easy Tactile Canvas 'Paintings'

I've always liked simple, bold and colourful designs....and it just so happens I also have a rather large collection of yarns...so I thought I would combine the two!

This Instructable shows you how I made a collection of mini artworks out of stretched canvases, paint and yarn. It's a lot of fun, for young and old alike.

I hope you enjoy this tutorial :)

Supplies:

- A Selection of Yarns; The wider the selection of yarns to choose from the better. I had quite a collection already, and I used mostly DK/worsted weight but also used some chunky and super chunky. If you want all colours that go together, you can often find packs on Ebay where people sell a bag of various yarns in similar colours.

- Mini Stretched Canvases; I used 4, each measuring 5" x 7"

- Pencil

- Acrylic Paints; I used a cheap little pack of acrylic paints mostly. Quality is not important.

- Clear-Drying Glue; PVA glue is what I used but any white glue that dries clear would work, including Aleene's Tacky Glue.

- Paintbrushes; I used a very cheap selection of brushes.

- Scissors

- Paper to protect your work surface; I used parchment paper.

Teacher Notes

Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

Step 1: Design Your Canvases

The first step is to think of a few different designs for your canvas art. Just do a quick doodle of the layouts you want, as I have on this piece of paper.

You'll want to come up with a picture that can be split into section or segments. I chose a Mondrian inspired colour block design, a wave, and the sun. Simple and bold works best I think.

The canvases I chose were 5" x 7". The larger they are, the more yarn and time you will need. If you're wanting to make these fairly quickly, then using chunky or super chunky yarn will definitely speed things up!

Step 2: Painting the Wave

My first design was a picture of a wave, and the first step was to draw the outline of this design onto the canvas. Do this faintly using a pencil.

Make sure your picture is split into sections so that the final artwork doesn't end up as one block of one colour of yarn. Even if it's not realistic, pick a variety of colours (or shades of one colour) for the segments and get creative!

Then take your acrylic paints and fill in the segments. I chose similar colours for the waves, first making note of the yarn colours I had available. You will want to paint using colours similar to the yarn colours you will be adding on top.

Make sure you also carry the painted design around onto the sides of the canvas too.

I painted the white sections white, but you can just leave these sections as blank canvas if you wish.

Step 3: Paint the Mondrian & the Sun

Next was the Mondrian artwork, which consists of stripes and blocks of primary colours.

I painted the blocks of colour first, left them to dry, and then painted in the black stripes. Don't worry about getting the stripes perfect and straight, these just act as a guide. If I needed them perfectly straight I would need to use masking tape to help me, but in this instance that is unnecessary.

And for the sun artwork I used the same method again; pencil outline, then paint the sections different colours to represent different yarn colours.

Step 4: Adding Yarn to the Mondrian

First, put some PVA glue into a small pot. Then use a cheap paintbrush to apply this glue onto one of the vertical black stripes.

Take some black yarn and add lengths of it to this glued stripe. You can add individual lengths of yarn to do this or, like me, you can use one long length and just loop it around above and below the stripe.

Make sure to cover the painted stripe below, and try and get the pieces of yarn to lie closely together.

Then use your scissors to cut off the loops and excess yarn above and below the stripe. This should leave with you with a neatly covered stripe.

Do the same for the other vertical stripe. Then do the same with the horizontal stripes. Don't overlap the yarns but instead split the horizontal stripes into sections.

Step 5: Filling in the Blocks

Next, you will need to fill in the blocks of colour, so first apply glue to one of the coloured areas.

As with the stripes, you can fill these areas with individual lengths of yarn, or you can do the same as me and use a long continuous strand and loop it around outside of the glued area.

Start at one corner of the block and go back and forth all of the way down to the bottom of the block to fill it with yarn. You will also need to go around to the sides of the canvas.

Then use your scissors to carefully cut off the excess yarn.

Repeat these steps for all of the blocks of colour.

Step 6: Adding Yarn to the Wave

Use the same method as we did for the Mondrian artwork in order to add the yarn. This artwork is perhaps a little more challenging because the shapes are varied and aren't all rectangles and squares.

I first covered the ' sun' in the corner with yellow yarn. It's best to start at the bottom of the side of the canvas, then go over the top of the canvas in a curved line, then down the other side of the canvas. Just keep doing this back and forth until you reach the very corner.

For the waves I wanted a more interesting frothy effect, so I used fluffy mohair yarns for the wave itself. Again I began on the side of the canvas, and I first outlined the shape of the segment. I then mostly used individual strands of yarn rather than one long piece, and tried to place them so they followed the flowing lines of the wave.

Each piece was attached as close to the tip of the wave as possible, along the wave shape, and then onto the side of the canvas.

For the 3 curved sections at the bottom, I start at the right-hand-side of the wave shape with individual strands. In the lowest section, I needed to cut the strands shorter and shorter to fill in the non-uniform shape completely.

Step 7: Yarn-ify the Sun

In this artwork the sections are mostly wider at one side compared to the other.

The sun semi-circle is simple enough; just start on the side and outline the shape first, then go back and forth making smaller and smaller arcs of yarn until you reach the centre line.

For the sections around the sun that are not simple rectangles, first add a few individual strands along both outer lines of the section, then add more individual strands in the space in between. Fill up this in-between space in a balanced way so the finished sections look as symmetrical as possible. I.e. add a strand on one side of the space, then the other side, then the other side again, and so on.

Step 8: Another Way to Go About It...

For this last canvas, I didn't plan what design I was going to create. Instead I just made it up as I went along in order to make an abstract ' doodle' artwork.

The easiest way to start, I think, is to add two or three spirals/coils of yarn to the canvas first. Then just go with the flow!

Keep making little random shapes and outlining everything to build a complete picture.

To finish, I used some white super chunky yarn to add a border around the sides of the canvas.

This method is perhaps best for creative expression purposes, as no planning is required :)

Step 9: Finished!

And now you'll have a unique collection of mini artworks!

I really hope you enjoyed this project :)

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

First Time Author Contest

Leather Challenge

Space Challenge

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.title
DIY Yarn Art | Easy Tactile Canvas 'Paintings'

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
DIY Yarn Art | Easy Tactile Canvas 'Paintings': I've always liked simple, bold and colourful designs....and it just so happens I also have a rather large collection of yarns...so I thought I would combine the two!This Instructable shows you how I made a collection of mini artworks out of stretc...

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.readable_text
I recently made a batch of these keychains. I made a 3 layer build with acrylic in the middle and a space cut out of the back and middle to insert and led diode with a coin cell battery. Could also be used for a necklace or keychain. The cow moves freely inside the acrylic box i put him in. Took one of my credit card style business cards to cut a thin back plate to swivel to the side to remove the battery, turn off the keychain, change the light, etc. I will be experimenting with more items of this style.

# data[].attributes.attachment_link.description
I recently made a batch of these keychains. I made a 3 layer build with acrylic in the middle and a space cut out of the back and middle to insert and led diode with a coin cell battery. Could also be used for a necklace or keychain.