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READ THIS FIRST

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This is a good beginner's guide to the issue of fast fashion. It gives you a basic introduction to some of the key information, such as what it is, why it is called "fast fashion", and famous brands.

Reference:

CNN (24th December, 2023)

What is fast fashion, and why is it so controversial?

https://edition.cnn.com/style/what-is-fast-fashion-sustainable-fashion/index.html

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What is fast fashion, and why is it so controversial? | CNN

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The fast fashion market is highly popular for its cheap and convenient options, but its impacts on the environment may be more than enough to persuade consumers away from the big brands.

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Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and Sustainable Consumption (ebook-NTU)

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Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and Sustainable Consumption (ebook-NTU)

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This book discusses the connection between fast fashion brands and customer-centric sustainability.

Muthu, S. (2019). Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and

Sustainable Consumption. https://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/978-981-13-1268-7.pdf

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Zara: A Sustainable Fast-Fashion Brand? (Journal article- NTU)

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Zara: A Sustainable Fast-Fashion Brand? (Journal article- NTU)

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Upon completion of this case, you will be able to:

Describe the significance of Zara within the Inditex group.

Define all aspects of sustainability in relation to the fashion industry.

Describe the practice of greenwashing and explain how it impacts on consumer understanding of sustainability.

Reference:

Hatley, N. (2022). Zara: A Sustainable Fast-Fashion Brand?. In Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases. London: Bloomsbury. Retrieved January 9, 2024, from http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350928503.001

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A campaign to reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion.

Reference: United Nations (2019) ActNow for Zero-Waste Fashion

https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/blog/2019/08/actnow-for-zero-waste-fashion/

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Climate action, at the individual level, involves changing habits and routines by making choices that have less harmful effects on the environment. But thinking about how to combat climate change can be overwhelming. "How can I influence system-wide changes or influence big businesses?" you may ask yourself. One important industry where we can make an impact is fashion.

In the past, the only conscious decision we made when choosing clothes was a sartorial one: Were our clothes flattering, trendy, expressive, or appropriate. It's not likely that many pondered how much water it takes to make a cotton shirt - 2,700 liters - or to produce a single pair of jeans - 9,982 liters. But mindsets are changing as consumers and industry leaders become more informed.

The apparel industry consumes more energy than the aviation and shipping industry combined[i], accounting for 10 per cent of the global carbon emissions[ii]. Chemicals from dyes make their way into the environment, polluting the air, water, and also harming marine life. The fashion industry:

Produces 20 per cent of wastewater[ii]

Is responsible for 8-10 per cent of the world's greenhouse gas emissions[ii]

$500 billion of value is lost every year due to clothing underutilisation and lack of recycling[ii]

Despite the grim statistics, producers and consumers of fashion recognize that the industry needs to change. In the lead up to the Climate Action Summit on 23 September 2019, the fashion industry has recognized that it has a crucial role to play in contributing to the realization of the goals of the Paris Agreement. Previously, in December 2018, 43 major brands and suppliers signed the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action[ii] under the auspices of the United Nations. And the goal is simple: reaching net zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. Other initiatives in the industry are moving in the same direction. This goes hand-in-hand with consumers' increased awareness of the choices and contributions they can make when we all decide to act now.

With the aim of raising awareness and promoting lasting behaviour change when it comes to our fashion choices, the United Nations has started rolling out the #ActNow Fashion Challenge on 6 August.

The challenge is part of the ActNow Climate Campaign, which aims to educate and encourage individual behavioral change, mainly by adjusting consumption patterns. ActNow invites people around the world to step up their climate actions and join the movement to build a better future for all.

The ActNow fashion challenge invites people around the world to make their individual contributions to zero-waste fashion. The challenge is to share each zero-waste fashion action on social media using #ActNow and log it on un.org/actnow.

Need some ideas to get started? Here are some every day zero-waste fashion actions you can take:

Curb your consumption. Consider whether you really need another pair of jeans, a new t-shirt or a pair of sandals. Also, prior to purchasing, ask yourself if you'll wear it a minimum of 30 times. If the answer is no, then forget about it and move on with a lighter heart-and carbon footprint.

What's old is new again. Shop in vintage or thrift shops, in fact, urban areas generally have a wide range of choices. Otherwise, you can shop online.

Reduce water waste. Wash clothes less frequently. Often, we tend to wear something once and wash it whether it's clean or not. If you've had a spill on your clothing, try spot-cleaning.

Spread the love. Donate your unwanted clothes to charity organizations or take them to consignment shops

Skip the landfill. Many retailers offer recycling programs. Some will even purchase, refurbish, and resell gently worn garments.

Upcycle for a new look. Rework the fabric from old clothes into something new, e.g., a pillow case, quilt, or doll clothes.

Share your #ActNow story on social media. The world needs to know you're fighting the good fight.

And finally, share your good environmental habits with your family, friends and colleagues. Don't forget to log your zero-waste fashion actions in the ActNow bot.

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Climate action, at the individual level, involves changing habits and routines by making choices that have less harmful effects on the environment. But thinking about how to combat climate change can be overwhelming. "How can I influence system-wide changes or influence big businesses?" you may ask yourself.

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Some commitments from fashion firms to make a sustainable fast fashion.

Reference: BBC ( 16 September 2021) Asos and Primark set out new green pledges

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-58575692

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By Beth Timmins
Business reporter, BBC News

Fashion firms Asos and Primark have announced new sustainability commitments, with both saying they will keep prices affordable.

Asos says it is aiming to achieve a net-zero impact on the environment by 2030.

Primark says its clothes will be made using recycled or "more sustainably sourced materials" by the same date.

The budget retailer has also promised to halve carbon emissions across its operations.

Critics warned, however, that these goals will be hard to track as fast-fashion supply chains often lack transparency.

On Thursday, Asos set out new environmental and social targets. They include:

Reducing carbon emissions generated by its clothes production and deliveries

Ensuring all of its own-brand products are made from sustainable or recycled materials by 2030

Giving customers more information on its supply chain

Recruiting a more diverse workforce, including 50% female representation across its leadership team

Its chief executive, Nick Beighton, told the BBC's Today programme: "We need to work with our partners on this to offset any minimal cost increases we anticipate from doing this."

He added that he expects more consumers to choose to shop with Asos based on those commitments.

"The responsibility for a sustainable future lies with all of us and businesses must lead the way," he said.

In a statement, Primark also said it would design its clothes to be more durable so they can be recycled and last longer - without increasing its prices.

It said it would "pursue a living wage for workers in its supply chain", but did not specify how much this wage would be in the countries where it has employees or when this would happen. Primark has 397 stores across 14 countries and employs about 70,000 people.

The company's chief executive, Paul Marchant, said: "Sustainability shouldn't be priced at a premium that only a minority can afford.

"Because of who we are, we believe we have the opportunity to make more sustainable fashion choices affordable to all."

Primark said it would eliminate single-use plastics in its own operations, but it does not own the majority of factories which manufacture its clothes.

Entry-price T-shirts

However, Noelle Hatley, lecturer in fashion business at Manchester Metropolitan University's Fashion Institute, said that using language such as "ambitions" and "pursuing" was vague.

"They need to be setting measurable targets, how many suppliers and factories and by what date will living wages be paid?"

Over the next year, Primark said it would make all men's, women's and kids' entry price point T-shirts from sustainably sourced cotton.

But Ms Hatley said that "without transparency of costings it is difficult to know how they can achieve this as the fast fashion business model relies on 'unsustainable' or 'below real cost' prices".

Though she said the announcement is encouraging, Ms Hatley added that if prices are being maintained, it "would be good for them to share how they are achieving this; for example, are they accepting a lower margin, or is the factory being paid the same for what could be more expensive materials?"

Kate Fletcher, research professor at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the University of the Arts London, said that the problem of fast-fashion is volume and questions remain about how Primark is going to put limits around how many pieces it produces.

"The real change comes with the detail not in the commitments and aspirations," she said.

"What I'd like to see are details on what the real and living wages would be in different countries."

Rana Plaza fire

Primark was one of a number of retailers that attracted strong criticism in 2013 after more than 1,100 workers were killed in the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh.

The Irish firm - which was one of 23 brands being produced at the garment factory - extended payments to victims and families affected. A worker in a Bangladeshi factory typically earns around 10p an hour.

It was one of the worst industrial accidents in recent memory and prompted more scrutiny of working conditions in garment factories.

The global fashion industry produced an estimated 2.1 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases in 2018, and uses more energy than both aviation and shipping combined. It also accounts for nearly 20% of waste water.

Asos was also criticised in a recent report by the Royal Society of Arts (RSA) that found that more than a third of items listed on its website were made entirely from new plastics.

The RSA pointed out that Asos had performed better than other firms such as Boohoo and Missguided, but said that fast fashion firms had more work to do.

In the UK, citizens buy more new clothes than any other European country and an estimated 350,000 tonnes of clothes end up in landfill every year.

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Asos and Primark set out new green pledges

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By Beth Timmins Business reporter, BBC News Fashion firms Asos and Primark have announced new sustainability commitments, with both saying they will keep prices affordable. Asos says it is aiming to achieve a net-zero impact on the environment by 2030. Primark says its clothes will be made using recycled or "more sustainably sourced materials" by the same date.

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Fast Fashion Explained and How It Impacts Retail Manufacturing

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Fast Fashion Explained and How It Impacts Retail Manufacturing

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Advantages and Disadvantages of Fast Fashion

Reference:

Hayes, A. (September 27, 2023)

Fast Fashion Explained and How It Impacts Retail Manufacturing

https://www.investopedia.com/terms/f/fast-fashion.asp#toc-advantages-and-disadvantages-of-fast-fashion

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What Is Fast Fashion?

Fast fashion is the term used to describe clothing designs that move quickly from the catwalk to stores to take advantage of trends. The collections are often based on styles presented at Fashion Week runway shows or worn by celebrities. Fast fashion allows mainstream consumers to purchase the hot new look or the next big thing at an affordable price.

Fast fashion became common because of cheaper, speedier manufacturing and shipping methods, an increase in consumers' appetite for up-to-the-minute styles, and the increase in consumer purchasing power-especially among young people-to indulge these instant gratification desires. Because of all this, fast fashion is challenging the established clothing labels' tradition of introducing new collections and lines on an orderly, seasonal basis. In fact, it's not uncommon for fast-fashion retailers to introduce new products multiple times in one week to stay on trend.

Key Takeaways

Understanding Fast Fashion

Shopping for clothing was once considered an event. Consumers would save up to buy new clothes at certain times of the year. The style-conscious would get a preview of the styles to come via fashion shows that displayed new collections and clothing lines several months in advance of their appearance in stores.

But that began to change in the late 1990s, as shopping became a form of entertainment and discretionary spending on clothing increased. Enter fast fashion-cheap, trendy knock-off garments, mass-produced at low cost, that allowed consumers to feel as though they were wearing the same styles that "walked the runway" or were sported by a sexy entertainer.

Fast fashion is made possible by innovations in supply chain management (SCM) among fashion retailers. Its goal is to quickly produce cost-efficient articles of clothing in response to (or anticipation of) fast-shifting consumer demands. The assumption is that consumers want high fashion at a low cost. While the garments are often carelessly made, they're not intended to be worn for years or even multiple times.

Fast fashion follows the concept of category management, linking the manufacturer with the consumer in a mutually beneficial relationship. The speed at which fast fashion happens requires this kind of collaboration, as the need to refine and accelerate supply chain processes is paramount.

$30.58 billion

Fast Fashion Leaders

Major players in the fast-fashion market include Zara, H&M Group, UNIQLO, GAP, Forever 21, Topshop, Esprit, Primark, Fashion Nova, and New Look. Many companies are both retailers and manufacturers, though they often outsource the actual production of clothing.

In addition, traditional mass-market department stores such as Macy's, JCPenney, and Kohl's in the U.S. have all taken a page from the fast-fashion book. For their in-house and proprietary brands, they've shortened design and production times to better compete in the market.

Here's a closer look at some of the leaders in fast fashion.

Spanish retail chain Zara, the flagship brand of textile giant Inditex, is all but synonymous with fast fashion, serving as an exemplar of how to cut the time between design, production, and delivery. Zara's designers can sketch a garment-the company sells men's, women's, and children's clothing-and have the finished piece appear on store racks in as little as four weeks. It can modify existing items in as little as two weeks.

Its secret to this rapid turnover is its ownership of a relatively short supply chain. Over half its factories are closely located to its corporate headquarters in A Coruña, Spain-including countries like Portugal, Turkey, and Morocco.

Its fast turnaround time aids another key Zara strategy: to stuff the stores with more goods, offering the consumer an unparalleled amount of choice. It produces 11,000-plus pieces annually, vs. an industry average of 2,000 to 4,000 pieces.

Zara's annual net sales (including those of Zara Home) were €19.6 billion in 2021. As of mid-2022, it has 1,947 stores across the globe, as well as a strong online operation.

Founded in 1947, Sweden-based H&M Group (short for Hennes & Mauritz ) is one of the oldest fast-fashion companies. As of 2022, H&M Group operates in 74 countries with over 4,000 stores under its various brands, which, along with H&M, include the slightly more upscale COS and the youth-oriented Monki.

H&M Group functions like a department store, selling not only clothing for men, women, and children but also cosmetics and home furnishings. It is more strictly a retailer: It does not own any factories but instead relies on about 600 independent suppliers for its garments. However, these suppliers are overseen by 16 H&M production offices, using state-of-the-art IT systems to track inventory and communicate with corporate HQ. The factories are based all around Europe, Asia, and Africa.

Part of H&M's strategy has also been not to offer just knockoffs but original creations via its much-ballyhooed designer collaborations with elite labels like Alexander Wang and Giambattista Vali. In early 2021, for example, it launched a collection designed by Simone Rocha.

H&M's annual net sales in 2021 came to SEK 199 billion (about $18.9 billion).

Advantages and Disadvantages of Fast Fashion

The Advantages of Fast Fashion

Profitable for manufacturers and retailers: The constant introduction of new products encourages customers to frequent stores more often, which means they end up making more purchases. The retailer does not replenish its stock-instead, it replaces items that sell out with new items. Accordingly, consumers know to purchase an item they like when they see it, no matter the price because it's not likely to be available for long. And because the clothing is cheap (and cheaply made), it's easy to get people back into stores or online to make fresh purchases.

Quick to consumers: As for advantages for the consumer, fast fashion has enabled people to get the clothes they want when they want them. Also, it's made clothing more affordable-and not just any clothing, but innovative, imaginative, stylish clothing.

Makes clothes affordable: Even those of modest means can constantly buy smart new clothes, indulge in fun or impractical items, and wear something different every day.

Democratizes fashion: No longer is the latest look, being "well-dressed," or having a large wardrobe the province of the rich and famous. Everyone can look good.

The Disadvantages of Fast Fashion

Cheap materials and poor workmanship: Because the clothing is made overseas, fast fashion is also seen as contributing to a decline in the U.S. garment industry, where labor laws and workplace regulations are stronger, and wages are better. If a consumer buys multiple fast fashion garments, cheap as they are, it eventually costs them more than buying a few pricier ones that last longer.

Encourages a "throw-away" consumer mentality: That's why it's also called disposable fashion. Many fast fashionistas in their teens and early twenties-the age group the industry targets-admit they only wear their purchases once or twice.

Bad for the environment: Critics contend that fast fashion contributes to pollution, waste, and planned obsolescence due to its cheap materials and manufacturing methods. The poorly made garments don't age well, but they can't be recycled because they're predominantly (over 60%) made of synthetics. So when they're discarded, they mold in landfills for years.

Associated with exploitative, abusive labor practices: Manufacturers are generally based in developing countries-and some have been none too stringent in overseeing their subcontractors nor transparent about their supply chain. That's led to critics charging that fast fashion is built on bad working conditions, poor pay, and other abusive, exploitative practices.

Intellectual property theft: Some designers allege that their designs have been illegally duplicated and mass-produced by fast fashion companies.

Impact on the Environment and Workers

It's argued in some circles that fast fashion is wasteful and harmful to the environment. When accounting for quality of workmanship, materials, cheap labor, rapid turnaround, and low stock for quick sales on the newest fashion items, it's easy to observe that waste can occur.

However, the environmental impact is much more severe than a cursory look at the industry reveals. Here's a quick look at some figures:

The industry uses 93 billion cubic meters of water per year.

It takes 3,781 liters of water to make one pair of jeans.

Of all the wastewater in the world, 20% is from textile dyeing and is highly toxic-many countries where clothes are made have reduced or no regulations for wastewater disposal.

Microplastic fibers used in clothing make their way to the ocean, amounting to about 500,000 tons-close to 50 billion plastic bottles.

Fashion emits more than 10% of global carbon emissions.

Economic Impact

The apparel industry, in general, has been growing by as much as 8% annually (aside from the blip of the 2020 pandemic year)-and fast fashion leads the apparel industry. It's estimated to grow nearly 7% to $39.84 billion in 2025.

However, the industry growth is unlikely to be felt by the fast fashion manufacturing industry workers-profits are not returned to the local economies for the work being done. Instead, revenues are recognized in the countries the companies are headquartered in, leaving these local economies to stagnate while others enjoy the fruits of their labor.

Worker Impact

Fast fashion companies employ thousands in their offices, stores, and factories, making millions in profits yearly. Unfortunately, workers are underpaid, work long hours, and are exposed to harmful chemicals used in the process.

Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

If fast fashion is getting garments to consumers as quickly as possible, regardless of the impact on workers and the environment, slow fashion is the exact opposite.

Slow fashion-a concept first introduced in 2008 by fashion and sustainability consultant Kate Fletcher-uses environmentally friendly processes and materials through "mindful manufacturing," focusing on quality rather than quantity. Mindful manufacturing, an idea championed by 3D printing company Stratasys, is the concept of developing more efficient production, sound chemical and solid waste disposal practices, reusable materials, and recycled packaging.

How to Avoid Fast Fashion

It's difficult to avoid products manufactured by companies that practice fast fashion completely; however, it's not impossible. One of the issues is consumerism and price; many people cannot afford the actual products fast fashion imitates but are still obsessed with the latest fashions.

Apart from resisting the urges of consumerism, there are some steps you can take to reduce the impact of your purchases:

Investigate the brands you like and see if they use sustainable processes and fair labor practices. You can buy your clothes at secondhand stores, which helps to reduce the amount of garment waste and extends their usage.

Additionally, speaking up and advocating against fast fashion and consumerism is one of the best ways to ensure awareness spreads. Most people are unaware of fast fashion's social and environmental impact-only with everyone doing their part to raise awareness will accountability be forced onto the companies making these products.

What Is Fast Fashion and Why Is It Important?

Fast fashion is getting garments that imitate new styles to market as quickly as possible, regardless of the impact on the environment and people's health.

What Are Some Fast Fashion Examples?

Some examples of companies in fast fashion are Stradivarius, Victoria's Secret, Urban Outfitters, Guess, Forever 21, and many other popular brands.

Who Benefits From Fast Fashion?

Consumers who enjoy the latest fashion with the convenience of low prices benefit, but the primary beneficiaries are investors, owners, and other stakeholders who profit from the practice.

The Bottom Line

"The benefits of fast fashion are clear: more consumer spending, more profits, and the consumer satisfaction of being able to participate in a trend almost immediately after they see it in magazines or on their favorite celebrities," stated a 2020 article on the GlobalEdge, a Michigan State University business reference site.

"However, fast fashion creates a host of issues that make it more problematic than it is beneficial... This industry contributes to climate change, pesticide pollution, and enormous amounts of waste," the site continues. The exploitation of and danger to workers, promulgated by the need for speed and cost efficiencies, is fast fashion's whole raison d'être.

The debate around fast fashion, alternatives, and how to proceed will continue as long as people are willing to buy high styles at low prices and ignore the issues the practice creates.

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Fast Fashion Explained and How It Impacts Retail Manufacturing

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Fast fashion is clothing design that quickly moves from idea to prototype, mass production, and consumers. Learn how fast fashion retailers make money.

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Fast Fashion and the Environment: Is there a Solution? (Online article- NTU)

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Fast Fashion and the Environment: Is there a Solution? (Online article- NTU)

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In this case strategies used by fast-fashion companies to address the environmental impact of their business model are analyzed and evaluated.

Reference:

Rabolt, N.J., & Miler, J.K. (2018). Fast Fashion and the Environment: Is there a Solution?. In Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases. London: Bloomsbury Academic. Retrieved January 9, 2024, from http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781474208796.0045

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Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion industry ( NTU -online article)

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Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion industry ( NTU -online article)

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The study analyses the current SSCM approach of companies in the fast fashion industry.

A content analysis was conducted on the reports of 9 companies in the sector.

A conceptual map was developed based on the Seuring and Müller’s (2008) framework.

The compliance, monitoring, and auditing activities are critical in SSCM.

Reference: ScienceDirect (October, 2014)

Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion industry: An analysis of corporate reports

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S026323731400022X

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Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion industry: An analysis of corporate reports

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In recent decades, the fast fashion industry has been characterized by widespread operations across both developing and developed countries. Due to th...

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Fast Fashion: The Real Price of Low-Cost Fashion ( NTU-video)

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Fast Fashion: The Real Price of Low-Cost Fashion ( NTU-video)

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This film explores the bad practices of the textile industry, the most polluting industry in the world after oil.

Reference:

kanopy (2020), Fast Fashion: The Real Price of Low-Cost Fashion

https://www.kanopy.com/en/ntuuk/video/11521206