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The London Textile Fair (13th+14th Jan '26)

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The London Textile Fair (13th+14th Jan '26)

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I got it!! upload

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https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.bbc.com/news/articles/c071gjd311xo.amp

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Versace House Party | The Pre-Fall 2020 Campaign

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Tea with Olivia Colman #ItsAlwaysBurberryWeather 

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@burberry
Tea with Olivia Colman #ItsAlwaysBurberryWeather
♬ original sound - Burberry

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWfX5jeF6k4

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Lesson 3: Raising Awareness of Fashion Brand(s) - (Apr '25)

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Lesson 3: Raising Awareness of Fashion Brand(s) - (Apr '25)

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Lesson 3: Raising Awareness of Fashion Brand(s) - (Apr '25)

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Lesson 3: Raising Awareness of Fashion Brand(s) - (Apr '25)

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Hi guys, I was researching and I remembered this agency "Box 1824" that talks about the behavior of generations, the videos are very interesting.

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Gen-Gen: O Despertar da Geração Generativa | Legendado em português

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TexPremium is organised by Textile Events, the leading industry exhibition platform within the UK, hosting two biannual exhibitions in London. Among these is The London Textile Fair, which is the leading industry exhibition in the UK. Our events attract thousands of visitors at each edition.

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About Sponsors & partners exhibitor list Why ExHIBIT? directions

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Pete Davidson Hard Launches Tattoo-Free Skin in Reformation’s Valentine’s Day Campaign

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Pete Davidson Hard Launches Tattoo-Free Skin in Reformation’s Valentine’s Day Campaign

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The comedian has “hard launched” his relationship with LA-based women’s clothing brand Reformation, which launched their “Official Boyfriend of Reformation” campaign on Tuesday morning — just in time for Valentine’s Day. In the campaign imagery, shot by Angelo Pennetta, Davidson strips down in a lineup of limited-edition crewnecks that say “Official Boyfriend” and “Official Girlfriend,” in addition to classic boxer briefs.

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Pete Davidson Hard Launches Tattoo-Free Skin in Reformation’s Valentine’s Day Campaign

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Pete Davidson hard launches his relationship with Reformation in new Valentine’s Day campaign, featuring limited-edition crewnecks and boxer briefs.

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Tyla, FKA twigs and Caroline Polachek shine in H&M’s festival-ready S/S 2025 collection

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Tyla, FKA twigs and Caroline Polachek shine in H&M’s festival-ready S/S 2025 collection

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Tyla, FKA twigs and Caroline Polachek shine in H&M’s festival-ready S/S 2025 collection

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The collection will be released in two chapters, which complement each other but offer their own unique perspective and attitude. Together, they pay homage to the multi-faceted nature of contemporary femininity. The first drop conjures an air of ethereal bohemia. It offers a fresh take on Spring style, from festival dressing to city chic, all while paying homage to the icons of fashion history, with nods the sweeping blouses of iconic glam rock musicians and the fluidity and androgyny of New Romantic styling.

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Don’t miss the opportunity to stay competitive in an evolving industry.

Visiting SAMAB will provide National and International Top Buyers with an opportunity to access knowledge, connections and resources essential for success in the global fashion market.

All useful prerequisites to create a stimulating environment for collaboration and the development of new ideas and the global fashion market.

The free ticket is valid for the three-day event and will allow you to visit SAMAB from 27 to 29 May at Superstudio Maxi in Milan. It will give you access to the exhibition area, thematic workshop, B2B meetings and networking moments that will animate the three days.

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Visiting SAMAB will provide National and International Top Buyers with an opportunity to access knowledge, connections and resources essential for success in the global fashion market.

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ICE BREAKER EXERCISE: ENERGISER - Change 5 things in pair exercise....

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ICE BREAKER EXERCISE: ENERGISER - Change 5 things in pair exercise....

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Empathise with your end users, by taking note of changes made to their circumstances!

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Textile Exchange and Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action launch the 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge, a joint industry initiative - Textile Exchange

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Textile Exchange and Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action launch the 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge, a joint industry initiative. Textile and apparel brands are invited to take climate action by joining the 85 brands and suppliers committed to replace their use of virgin polyester with recycled polyester to ultimately shift global volume from an average of 14% to 45% by 2025.

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Source-Fashion Event in London (Feb 18th - 20th, 2025)

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Source-Fashion Event in London (Feb 18th - 20th, 2025)

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Plan Your Visit to Olympia London | Source Fashion

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Find out how to travel to Olympia London, and the best places to stay during the event. We look forward to welcoming you to Source Fashion.

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Dubai residents expect to spend more on luxury in the next three years

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Working with Dubai Design District and leveraging proprietary data from BoF's data think tank, BoF Insights, this white paper explores the commercial and creative opportunities in the city of Dubai for fashion and luxury businesses looking to optimise and expand their presence, reach and operations in the region.

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Why are fashion entrepreneurs always leaving out Baby-Boomers, when it comes to Fashion products and services, despite....

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Why are fashion entrepreneurs always leaving out Baby-Boomers, when it comes to Fashion products and services, despite....

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If, like us, you're a keen Zara.com customer, you may have noticed a new addition to the website's menu in the last few days.

Nestled under the TRF section now sits 'Ungendered', the high street retailer's first attempt at offering gender-free clothing.

It was launched last week, with no fanfare.

The collection currently consists of eight pieces; plain T-shirts, hoodies, jeans and the like in grey, white and navy. So far, so simple.

But for some critics, that's the problem; it's too simple.

This content is imported from Twitter. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.

This isn't skirts for girls AND guys; it's clothing that, in much of the world, hasn't really been associated with a particular gender for quite some time anyway.

Baggy jeans and plain hoodies? Men and women have been wearing them for decades.

This content is imported from Twitter. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.

For others, Zara's foray is admirable even if it's not perfect. Perhaps, at this point in time, the gesture is the most important thing.

The Spanish super-brand is the most prominent high-street retailer to dip its toe into the gender-neutral waters. It's also probably the most influential affordable fashion brand in the world, meaning others will likely want to now join this important, and frankly overdue, conversation. And surely that can only be a good thing, right?

This content is imported from Instagram. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site.

But it's important to remember that gender fluidity in fashion is nothing new.

Rick Owens has been doing it for years, as have many other 'designer' brands. Gucci, under the creative directorship of Alessandro Michele, Vetements, Saint Laurent and J.W. Anderson are just a few of the big names that have helped to push it through to the mainstream in the last couple fo years, while Louis Vuitton cast a skirt-wearing Jaden Smith (son of Will and Jada) in its latest womenswear campaign.

Let us know what you think about Zara's 'Ungendered' range on our Facebook page now.

This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io

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Zara Has Launched An 'Ungendered' Collection

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If, like us, you're a keen Zara.com customer, you may have noticed a new addition to the website's menu in the last few days. Nestled under the TRF section now sits 'Ungendered', the high street retailer's first attempt at offering gender-free clothing. It was launched last week, with no fanfare.

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Case Study | The Complete Guide to Communicating Value to Shoppers

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Case Study | The Complete Guide to Communicating Value to Shoppers

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Among the greatest challenges fashion businesses face today is convincing increasingly discerning and discount-driven shoppers that their products are worth the buy — at full price. This case study explores how brands, from luxury to mass market, can communicate value in a competitive and choosy environment.

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Before each purchase, an internal negotiation takes place in every shopper's head: How much do I really want this, and is it worth the cost?

It's only gotten harder to persuade consumers to answer "yes."

Desire to spend on fashion is dwindling. In 2024, over 40 percent of shoppers in the US, UK and Germany said they were spending less on clothing, footwear and accessories than they did a year prior, according to The State of Fashion 2025 by The Business of Fashion and McKinsey. The number one risk fashion executives face in the year ahead is consumers' appetite to spend, and competition for share of wallet is heating up.

It's a concern at every level. At the top, luxury brands increasingly have to justify their high prices and face pressure from a new crop of brands trying to undercut them. At the bottom, a plethora of convenient and cheap options means brands have to work harder to stand out while assuring customers they aren't sacrificing quality.

Today, fashion businesses increasingly need to prove to shoppers that they offer value - that what shoppers are getting for their money is greater than what they're giving up. That's not the same as just offering the cheapest option. Consumers are willing to spend on what they perceive as the right product.

"A lot of retailers who have performed badly have pegged bad performance on excuses. 'Oh, inflation. Oh, the economy. Oh, the consumer is not spending,'" said Neil Saunders, managing director of research firm GlobalData Retail. "The honest truth is they're spending. They're just not spending with you because you haven't added value."

The situation presents challenges but also opportunities. Brands that are able to communicate their value to shoppers stand to gain market share and earn their loyalty.

That starts with having a clear position in the market, selling a differentiated product that cultivates desire, conceiving marketing that emphasises quality and distinctiveness and delivering a sales experience that makes shoppers feel the time they're spending with you is rewarded. It ends with a product in consumers' hands that feels matched to all the work the brand did behind the scenes.

This case study includes insights from Uniqlo, luxury upstarts Stòffa and Savette, hit womenswear brand Tuckernuck, American heritage label St. John and others on how to showcase value across every touchpoint, from designing a product to crafting imagery and creating the right store experience.

The strategies brands employ will vary by where they're positioned in the market, but the ultimate goal is the same: to convince consumers their products are worth buying - and at full price.

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Case Study | The Complete Guide to Communicating Value to Shoppers

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Among the greatest challenges fashion businesses face today is convincing increasingly discerning and discount-driven shoppers that their products are worth the buy - at full price. This case study explores how brands, from luxury to mass market, can communicate value in a competitive and choosy environment.

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Want to use our UAL Libraries Post-Short Course...?

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Want to use our UAL Libraries Post-Short Course...?

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Welcome. Our libraries are open to all visitors to use our collections for research, with a booking. We will need your full name and contact details.

Bookings should be requested at least 1 day before you want to visit. You must have received a booking confirmation before you visit. Please note there is no wait list.

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We are currently allowing limited visitor access to our libraries, archives and special collections. Bookings should be requested at least 1 day before you want to visit. You must have received a booking confirmation before you visit. Please note there is no wait list. Make a booking.

Visitors have access to book a study space and browse collections. There is no access to UAL computers but visitors can create a guest account to print and copy from their own device by visiting Papercut

Visitors from other academic institutions can access Wi-Fi via Eduroam, from their own devices.

Closed access materials must be requested for viewing at the time of booking. If you are booking at short notice, requested materials may not be available to view on your visit. We recommend booking at least 48 hours in advance to view material on your visit.

When requesting closed access material please check Library Search and copy and paste the URL for your item or add author, title, journal issue/volume and date, plus location shelved at and shelfmark

Make sure you bring in a copy of your booking, or have it ready to show on your device.

Alumni can still access free or open access quality online resources. Join the alumni scheme and find out about graduate benefits.

We have been accredited with Customer Service Excellence.

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We are currently allowing limited visitor access to our libraries, archives and special collections. Bookings should be requested at least 1 day before you want to visit. You must have received a booking confirmation before you visit. Please note there is no wait list. Make a booking.

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Lesson 1: Micro & Macro factors affecting the Fashion industry (Jan '25)

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Lesson 1: Micro & Macro factors affecting the Fashion industry (Jan '25)

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Lesson 1: Micro & Macro factors affecting the Fashion industry (Jan '25)

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Lesson 1: Micro & Macro factors affecting the Fashion industry (Jan '25)

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Lesson 1: Micro & Macro factors affecting the Fashion industry (Jan '25)

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Lesson 1: Micro & Macro factors affecting the Fashion industry (Jan '25)

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Macroeconomic headwinds, shifting customer preferences and a deteriorating value proposition continue to weigh on the global luxury sector in 2025.

Companies need to review their strategic priorities — investing in talent development, product excellence and finding new ways to engage with clients.

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Over the past five years, the luxury industry experienced a period of exceptional value creation. Between 2019 and 2023, unprecedented demand for personal luxury goods - fashion, handbags, watches and jewellery among them - combined with a deep well of supply allowed the sector to achieve a 5 percent compound annual growth rate. Luxury brands outperformed global markets and achieved new profitability records.

The pace of growth across the industry was remarkable and swift, though luxury "megabrands" with annual revenues over €5 billion ($5.3 billion) used their global presence to drive even greater visibility and desirability. Price increases accounted for more than 80 percent of growth during this period, while volume gains were more moderate.

Now, as we step into 2025, the luxury industry is facing a significant slowdown that has hit even top brands hard. For the first time since 2016 (excluding 2020), luxury value creation declined.

Several of the industry's growth-driving engines have stalled. Macroeconomic headwinds - especially in the key China market, which grew more than 18 percent annually from 2019 to 2023 - are weighing heavily on the sector.

Meanwhile, the luxury client base is becoming more diverse, and clients have a more complex relationship with luxury goods than ever. To that end, one challenge luxury players face is how to engage younger clients without alienating older ones, both through the products brands create as well as through their marketing strategies. Additionally, customers of all ages are becoming more interested in luxury experiences, not just luxury goods. This dynamic creates new trade-offs for clients to consider, meaning personal luxury goods players must exceed higher-than-ever client expectations to win spend over luxury travel and wellness experiences, for example.

But luxury's woes are also partly self-inflicted. The sector's rapid expansion over the last five years has led to overexposure and weakened the industry's promise of exclusivity, creativity and craftsmanship. As demand surged, brands increased prices but failed to sufficiently adapt their creative strategies and supply chains to meet new scale requirements, thereby weakening their core value proposition and, ultimately, failing to keep their promise to customers.

As a result of these strategic choices and economic headwinds, growth in the years ahead will be slower. We expect global luxury sales to expand between 2 and 4 percent annually from 2025 to 2027, recovering modestly from 0 to 2 percent year-on-year growth in 2024. Dynamism in emerging markets such as the Middle East, India and other Asia-Pacific regions will not compensate for single-digit growth in luxury's core markets such as China and Europe, though we are more bullish on the US where we expect better overall perspectives. With sector recovery out of reach until late 2025 or 2026, the industry must use the slowdown as an opportunity to reflect and recalibrate. Luxury leaders must play a long game rather than relying on quick fixes to their most pressing challenges.

Now is the time to take bold risks, rebuild connections with clients and invest in the critical areas of your business - even if the returns may not be immediate. In our view, there are five strategic imperatives for luxury executives in the coming years:

1. Conduct a strategic reset

Clarify core values and align on priority clients to sharpen the brand's long-term strategy and differentiated value proposition, including assortment, communication, price architecture and experience.

Review the synergies large groups may achieve by launching initiatives jointly, be it on growth acceleration or cost excellence.

2. Restore product excellence

Continue to invest resources in creating iconic products that will resonate with target clients and uphold luxury's promise of quality and value.

Realign business scale with craftsmanship heritage by investing in long-term supply chain stability (through vertical integration, for example) and by implementing best-in-class sourcing and manufacturing practices.

3. Rethink customer engagement strategy

Continue to develop unique "money-can't-buy" experiences, both in and outside of stores, for the most loyal and most promising clients that have been underserved in recent years. These experiences must align with the brand's ethos, and not simply chase the latest trends. Develop new client acquisition strategies.

Invest in tech, AI and data capabilities to uncover powerful customer insights to help better personalise customer journeys.

4. Bridge the talent capability gap

Attract, develop and retain the best talent across every critical function, not just in creative roles. Evolve corporate cultures and update operating models to align with the business's growing scale and complexity, and potential succession planning.

Professionalise operations across major business units - including digital, data, technology, supply chain and procurement - by emulating best practices from other sectors, while looking outside luxury to find talent to help bridge the capability gap.

5. Futureproof the portfolio

Review exposure to different luxury categories and regions (within large groups). Define a clear role and goals for expansion to adjacent categories, including travel and hospitality, to maximise client engagement without neglecting the core business. Allocate focus and resources to these new ventures without impacting the core business.

Seek complementary acquisitions to build resiliency and secure a competitive edge in a more consolidated market. The nature and scale of these shifts will likely continue to recompose the industry.

The luxury industry is at a critical juncture. Executives - should they lead with vision, creativity and a renewed commitment to excellence, while also focusing on long-term investments and multi-year initiatives - can ensure the continued success and growth of their brands. If they do not make these necessary changes, they risk sacrificing brand relevancy and market share for years to come.
BoF Insights is The Business of Fashion's in-house consultancy. We partner with leading fashion and beauty brands and investors to help them sustainably grow for the long term. Get in touch to find out how we can support your business.

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Macroeconomic headwinds, shifting customer preferences and a deteriorating value proposition continue to weigh on the global luxury sector in 2025. Companies need to review their strategic priorities - investing in talent development, product excellence and finding new ways to engage with clients.

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Read entire article: https://www.reuters.com/business/retail-consumer/luxury-labels-bulk-up-lower-priced-goods-appeal-middle-class-shoppers-2024-12-20/

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Europe’s top fashion houses will reluctantly conclude that high profit margins are a luxury they can no longer afford in 2025. The likes of LVMH (LVMH.PA), opens new tab, Kering (PRTP.PA), opens new tab and Chanel aggressively hiked prices on handbags, shoes and jackets during the pandemic. As demand from Chinese consumers rapidly cools, CEOs will be forced to rethink.

The People’s Republic has been a disaster zone for luxury groups of late. For example, Kering, which owns brands like Gucci, suffered, opens new tab a 30% year-on-year fall in Asia-Pacific sales excluding Japan in the quarter to September 2024, mainly driven by China.

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Breakingviews - Luxury firms will warily cut prices to boost sales

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Europe’s top fashion houses will reluctantly conclude that high profit margins are a luxury they can no longer afford in 2025. The likes of LVMH , Kering and Chanel aggressively hiked prices on handbags, shoes and jackets during the pandemic. As demand from Chinese consumers rapidly cools, CEOs will be forced to rethink.

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Where does the UK’s fast fashion end up? I found out on a beach clean in Ghana

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There are enough garments in the world to dress the next six generations. Yet the number of clothes being produced in the global north is soaring – and poisoning poorer countries

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BOF: Letter from the Editor (WC 16th Dec '24)

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BOF: Letter from the Editor (WC 16th Dec '24)

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Please explore and contribute to discussions (via adding links to stories etc) related to the fashion industry in the designated column titled "ANYTHING YOU FIND INTERESTING RELATING TO THE FASHION BUSINESS"

OR

Actively engage with and comment on at least three posts made by myself as your tutor or students from previous cohorts.

I anticipate your presence in our next meeting.

Kindest,

Romero Bryan

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Obama warns Democrats of 'tight race' to defeat Trump

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Watch: Guerilla Marketing for "Alien: Romulus" (2024) Film

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Watch: Guerilla Marketing for "Alien: Romulus" (2024) Film

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Alien: Romulus begins promotion with guerrilla marketing in New York!

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Few prints are as emblematic as the Burberry check. For more than a century, the black, white, red, and tan plaid has represented a certain level of British sophistication and, more practically, a defense against even the worst wet weather.

But earlier this summer, the cracks in fashion powerhouse Burberry's foundations became very apparent. In July, after reports that it was cutting hundreds of jobs, Burberry said sales had fallen 21% year-over-year in the first quarter and that it would suspend its dividend. On the heels of earnings, the company also announced it was ousting its CEO, Jonathan Akeroyd.

The market has not responded kindly. Burberry's stock is down 24% since the news and 49% so far this year.

It's a strong about-face for the brand and has left many wondering what exactly went wrong.

The answer is a combination of too-high prices and too-high fashion.

Burberry has shifted away from its bestsellers, like the classic trench, into avant-garde looks that don't appeal to a broad market. It's also pitted itself against bigger, more established luxe players - with limited success.

"They tried to be a major fashion player because fashion was back in fashion," Jelena Sokolova, a senior equity analyst at Morningstar, told Business Insider. "It was the same with boosting leather goods. Neither of these things, I would say, are extremely strongly in the brand DNA."

Take handbags. Being an exclusive fashion name means playing in the competitive world of overpriced bags, one of the most high-margin items a luxury house can sell. But Burberry hasn't been able to keep up with the likes of Louis Vuitton or Gucci.

What's left is a confused brand with little direction and too many discounts and outlet stores.

But things aren't hopeless at Burberry, which did not respond to a request for comment from Business Insider. A strategy that focuses on the brand's core products - its outerwear - and eschews a bloated price structure in favor of more broad appeal could help turn the company around.

From technical fabric to a golden age

Like many legacy brands - Hermès, Louis Vuitton - Burberry was created for practicality, not for fashion's sake. Thomas Burberry, the founder, invented a proprietary fabric in 1879 with the goal of protecting customers from the notoriously poor British weather.

The fabric was about performance, and the company's history boasts about explorers in the early 20th century wearing the gear to the Arctic Circle or on long-distance hot air balloon rides.

It wasn't until 100 years later, in the early 21st century, that the brand really became a force in fashion.

From 2001 to 2018, designer Christopher Bailey ran Burberry and turned it into a global name. While focusing its design on Burberry's heritage and its classic plaid, he also modernized the business, making runway collections available right after the show and building an online presence. It may not have been very high-fashion, but it worked.

"When things were good, the brand was outperforming the industry," Sokolova said.

Trying to be a 'major fashion player'

But every golden age comes to an end, and after Bailey was also named Burberry CEO in 2014, the brand started to decline.

The company had begun to lag behind its peers, and a move to bring in new leadership in 2018 was lauded by industry watchers who had just seen Gucci transform under Alessandro Michele.

"We believe this is a necessary move to make Burberry exciting again," Luca Solca, then the head of luxury goods at Exane BNP Paribas, wrote in a note, The New York Times reported in 2017, when it was announced Bailey would be leaving. "Creative directors - like all artists (painters, composers, singers) - tend to produce variations on a theme. Most brands that have gone through a revival had to first find new creative resources.''

Part of that revival was an attempt to go upmarket - both in terms of look and price.

Burberry looks designed by Ricardo Tisci, who followed Bailey as creative director, leaned away from the traditional.

"I wanted to celebrate the amazing brain of England," Tisci told Vogue in 2019. "The beauty, the avant-garde, the real individualism."

But Burberry's sweet spot was never the avant-garde but classic trench coats, a lesson Tisci's successor and Burberry's current designer, Daniel Lee, would learn when he leaned too heavily into leather goods.

Over the past couple of years, Burberry has tried to become a player in the luxury handbag market, a high-profit opportunity, to little avail. The company started churning out bags that matched the prices of those from leather goods houses like Louis Vuitton, charging 58% more than its legacy leather goods products.

It was a move that Solca, now at Bernstein, called "overambitious" in a June note. And customers weren't buying it - or the bags.

"They have been trying to boost their leather goods business, but of course it's a very uphill battle," Morningstar's Sokolova said. "They pushed the pricing where the brand didn't feel legitimate. I've heard from some people, with a $2,500 bag, you might as well just go for Louis Vuitton, you wouldn't buy Burberry."

Designer Lee has also added to the brand's muddled image. He adopted a new signature color and a new logo, leaving consumers who wanted classic Burberry just as confused as they were with Tisci.

The result is a series of contradictions: a British heritage brand known for its trench coats trying to become a high-end maison, and a label with increasingly expensive products that has had to turn to outlets and steep discounts when those products didn't move.

"Burberry was trying to expand into categories and price points where it did not have sufficient brand desirability or heritage," Adam Cochrane, an analyst at Deutsche Bank Research, told BI over email. "The combination of higher price points and more sales via outlet channels was always hard to reconcile, and the company never managed to navigate this well."

Even chairman Gerry Murphy admitted things had "moved a bit too far, too fast with the new aesthetic" during the July earnings call.

"Convincing consumers that they need to spend more for its products would only be possible if Burberry became very hot and very desirable," Solca wrote in his June note. "This is currently not the case, and most likely will only change gradually."

In the luxury trenches

Not all of Burberry's problems are of its own making; the entire luxury sector is facing challenges.

"If the general sentiment is weak, the brands that have the weaker momentum, they get discarded first," Sokolova said. "They get the most hurt in a downturn."

With inflation squeezing aspirational shoppers, it's natural that if they are going to splurge, they will do it on a brand that's considered a good investment. Those are more likely to be iconic styles that have been in fashion for years - a Louis Vuitton Neverfull, say, or Chanel Flap bag - than a style from Burberry, a brand not known for its bags.

"It's been a tougher market where customers are more cautious, more conservative, not just about price but on style," Murphy said during the July call.

There's also China, a difficult market for the entire sector right now. Consumer sentiment in the region has fallen, and shoppers are choosing to take their money to Japan, where the yen has been weak.

And Burberry is doing even worse than its peers there, which partially reflects Chinese customers' shift "to brands which have been able to better reflect heritage and desirability," Cochrane said.

Burberry's comparable store sales in Mainland China fell 21% during the first quarter. Luxury bellwether LVMH's revenue in the Asia-except-Japan region dropped 13% in the first half of the year.

"It is difficult to reposition a brand in a challenging macro environment, and Burberry's high exposure to the slowdown in China does not help," Anne-Laure Bismuth, a director of luxury and sporting goods research at HSBC, told BI.

In the region, shoppers associate the brand with discounts, Bernstein research found, meaning its offerings are far from the investment pieces or "wear for five year" items that people typically want during tough economic times.

Check, please!

Industry onlookers seem to agree Burberry is at a crossroads and can go one of two directions, with one being substantially easier. The brand can continue its price hikes and attempt to go high fashion - plus close most of its 56 discount outlets, Bismuth said - or it can go back to basics and stop trying to compete with the Louis Vuittons and Guccis of the world.

The first would come with "the consequence of impairing its earnings significantly for at least three to five years," Bismuth said; most analysts BI spoke to see going back to basics as a more surefire way for Burberry to succeed.

Part of a strategy of shrinking away from being a very upmarket high-fashion brand would be to lean into what works - namely, the trench.

While Burberry was built as an outerwear brand, outerwear currently only makes up 30% of its revenue, and trench coats make up just about 10%, Sokolova said. Apparel, one of the slowest growing parts of luxury, makes up about 60%.

"I wish that they would focus on their iconic products," Sokolova said. "From an advertising and product perspective, that should be the focus to revitalize the brand."

Outerwear makes up more than 70% of the revenue of Moncler, she said, a brand known for its winterwear. Moncler has outperformed Burberry year-to-date; by leaning on what it knows works - it doesn't even make handbags - the company has been less exposed to the squeezes facing the luxury sector.

Just like Hermès needs the Birkin and the Kelly, Burberry needs the trench and the scarf, and even the brand admits it has strayed too far from its heritage. In a July memo, the company said it would "emphasise more of the timeless, classic attributes that Burberry is known for" and "a broader everyday luxury offer."

Part of this would also mean reducing those sky-high prices of recent years, but in reality, the company was already offering steep discounts and selling at outlets.

It looks like management agrees that highbrow is not the way to go, given the new CEO, Joshua Schulman, is a veteran of Coach and Jimmy Choo, two upmarket brands that have iconic collections yet aren't exactly uber-luxury.

Making Burberry a British Coach or Michael Kors "would possibly generate higher cash flows and profits," Solca wrote in a November 2021 note.

Perhaps there is a way for Burberry to weather the storm after all.

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How the British behemoth Burberry became fashion's biggest fail of the year

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Burberry, the British clothing brand best known for its trench coats, tried to go too high-price and high-fashion. Its stock has cratered as a result.

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Fashion needs independent brands, so why do they keep closing?

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As The Vampire’s Wife ceases trading, Ella Alexander examines what’s causing so many beloved labels to fold

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The Taylor Swift Effect isn't just a pop-culture headline - it's big business. Just ask creator and entrepreneur Cassey Ho, founder of Blogilates. With the release of Taylor Swift's latest album TTPD, Taylor released a viral video in her 'For a Fortnight' Challenge. The video shows a 3-second clip of her wearing a Blogilates skirt and the impact on the business is remarkable. Since the feature, Blogilates instantly sold out of their Pirouette skort in 13 colourways and, for the first time ever, had to open pre-sales to meet the overwhelming demand for their product. To paint a picture of the impact on Blogilates' business... 🛍️ They now have close to 10,000 skorts ordered on pre-sale and climbing 🛍️ They saw a 600-700% increase in sales 🛍️ They had the second-best day of ALL TIME, only beaten by their 2023 Black Friday Sales Shopify merchants around the world are feeling the power of Taylor Swift 🌎 In January, Taylor was seen wearing a dress from UK merchant Little Lies who saw a 17,000% increase [yes, you read that correctly] in sales vs the same day last year and unsurprisingly had the best daily sales of all time for their business. And again, Taylor was seen wearing a piece from merchant The Westside Storey after a Kansas City Chiefs game on a Sunday in December. The following day, the merchant saw a 700% jump in sales. One of the biggest people in pop culture wearing the product of a small business is life-changing. For some brands, this influx of volume would overwhelm their store - but not on Shopify. We've built a platform to handle the demand and meet the power of the Swifties. The only question is: what product will go viral next? If it's on Shopify, we're ready for it. https://lnkd.in/eRHmkuh6

While the "Taylor Swift Effect" showcases impressive results for businesses on Shopify, the communication around such impacts seems overly simplified and somewhat disconnected from the complexities of marketing strategy. Highlighting massive sales increases post-celebrity endorsement paints an exciting picture, but it neglects critical aspects like the costs and strategic planning involved in securing such endorsements. Taylor Swift's influence is undeniable, and her endorsement can transform a brand's fortunes overnight-as seen with Blogilates and Little Lies. However, it's important to clarify whether these mentions are organic or part of a paid partnership. A single promotional post from someone of Swift's caliber could indeed cost upwards of 1 million euros. For many businesses, this is a substantial investment that may not always guarantee a return proportional to the expense. Furthermore, the communication implies a one-size-fits-all success model, which can be misleading. Not all brands will experience the same level of impact from a celebrity endorsement, and for some, the cost of such an investment could outweigh the benefits. Marketing strategies should be tailored to individual brand needs and market conditions, not generalized based on high-profile success stories. In summary, while the power of celebrity endorsements is clear, a more nuanced discussion about the costs, strategic planning, and realistic outcomes would provide a clearer and more practical perspective for businesses considering such moves.

The Taylor Swift Effect isn't just a pop-culture headline - it's big business. Just ask creator and entrepreneur Cassey Ho, founder of Blogilates. With the release of Taylor Swift's latest album TTPD, Taylor released a viral video in her 'For a Fortnight' Challenge. The video shows a 3-second clip of her wearing a Blogilates skirt and the impact on the business is remarkable. Since the feature, Blogilates instantly sold out of their Pirouette skort in 13 colourways and, for the first time ever, had to open pre-sales to meet the overwhelming demand for their product. To paint a picture of the impact on Blogilates' business... 🛍️ They now have close to 10,000 skorts ordered on pre-sale and climbing 🛍️ They saw a 600-700% increase in sales 🛍️ They had the second-best day of ALL TIME, only beaten by their 2023 Black Friday Sales Shopify merchants around the world are feeling the power of Taylor Swift 🌎 In January, Taylor was seen wearing a dress from UK merchant Little Lies who saw a 17,000% increase [yes, you read that correctly] in sales vs the same day last year and unsurprisingly had the best daily sales of all time for their business. And again, Taylor was seen wearing a piece from merchant The Westside Storey after a Kansas City Chiefs game on a Sunday in December. The following day, the merchant saw a 700% jump in sales. One of the biggest people in pop culture wearing the product of a small business is life-changing. For some brands, this influx of volume would overwhelm their store - but not on Shopify. We've built a platform to handle the demand and meet the power of the Swifties. The only question is: what product will go viral next? If it's on Shopify, we're ready for it. https://lnkd.in/eRHmkuh6

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The Taylor Swift Effect isn't just a pop-culture headline - it's big business. Just ask creator and entrepreneur Cassey Ho, founder of Blogilates. With the release of Taylor Swift's latest album TTPD, Taylor released a viral video in her 'For a Fortnight' Challenge. The video shows a 3-second clip of her wearing a Blogilates skirt and the impact on the business is remarkable. Since the feature, Blogilates instantly sold out of their Pirouette skort in 13 colourways and, for the first time ever, had to open pre-sales to meet the overwhelming demand for their product. To paint a picture of the impact on Blogilates' business... 🛍️ They now have close to 10,000 skorts ordered on pre-sale and climbing 🛍️ They saw a 600-700% increase in sales 🛍️ They had the second-best day of ALL TIME, only beaten by their 2023 Black Friday Sales Shopify merchants around the world are feeling the power of Taylor Swift 🌎 In January, Taylor was seen wearing a dress from UK merchant Little Lies who saw a 17,000% increase [yes, you read that correctly] in sales vs the same day last year and unsurprisingly had the best daily sales of all time for their business. And again, Taylor was seen wearing a piece from merchant The Westside Storey after a Kansas City Chiefs game on a Sunday in December. The following day, the merchant saw a 700% jump in sales. One of the biggest people in pop culture wearing the product of a small business is life-changing. For some brands, this influx of volume would overwhelm their store - but not on Shopify. We've built a platform to handle the demand and meet the power of the Swifties. The only question is: what product will go viral next? If it's on Shopify, we're ready for it. https://lnkd.in/eRHmkuh6

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Cassey Ho on LinkedIn: Everyone has been asking me "So how are you going to change the way you do...

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Everyone has been asking me "So how are you going to change the way you do things now that Taylor has worn your skort?" My answer: I'm not changing the way I...

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Burberry Plc is expected to report yet another quarter of declining sales, as the trench-coat maker grapples with weak demand from Chinese and US shoppers.

The British fashion house will likely reveal that its fiscal fourth quarter - which will be reported on Wednesday - is expected to be the year's worst, according to analyst estimates compiled by Bloomberg.

Burberry shares slumped in January after it warned on profits and the company needs to show investors it is making progress with its brand elevation strategy under new chief creative officer Daniel Lee, but analysts are casting doubt on whether that can be achieved.

There's "limited faith" in the luxury company's ability to revive its brand next fiscal year, Bloomberg Intelligence Deborah Aitken said. While a "tougher luxury market" and shifting trends may be further exacerbating the company's under-performance, according to Deutsche Bank analyst Adam Cochrane.

"It is hard to pinpoint anything in particular which has gone wrong," Cochrane writes, adding that the timing of a "big, bold new Burberry under Daniel Lee may have coincided with a period of 'quiet luxury' and the weakness of aspirational luxury."

Sales in China, a key but difficult market for Burberry, are expected to decline by 17.5 percent in the quarter, the most from any region. Brands undergoing creative transitions like Burberry have been impacted in China as wholesale accounts avoid untested new designers, Aitken said. She expects Chinese spending on luxury to recover later this year.
By Chloé Meley Learn more: Inside Burberry's Growth Strategy In an interview with BoF the day of his first major speech to investors, Burberry's new CEO Jonathan Akeroyd outlined his plan for growing the British house into a £5 billion megabrand alongside designer Daniel Lee.

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Burberry Set for Worst Report This Year as Brand Revival Falters

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The British fashion house will likely reveal that its fiscal fourth quarter - which will be reported on Wednesday - is expected to be the year's worst, according to analyst estimates compiled by Bloomberg.

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What went wrong (key lessons):

Brand image: Ted Baker has had a difficult few years. During 2019, the company issued four profit warnings – and was forced to admit that it had overstated the value of clothing in its inventory by as much as £25m. In the same year, founder Ray Kelvin – who denies wrongdoing – was forced to step down following accusations of inappropriate workplace behaviour.

Decline in officewear: A Retail Week report found that office wear sales have dropped by 67% since the onset of the pandemic.

Inflation and cost of living crisis

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"We wish that there could have been a better outcome for the Ted Baker employees and stakeholders," said McNamara.

"We remain focused on securing a new partner to uphold and grow the Ted Baker brand in the UK and Europe where it began."

He added that it will "hopefully [be] some consolation for customers" that Ted Baker "will continue to trade online and in stores" and existing orders will be fulfilled.

Why has Ted Baker gone into administration?

No Ordinary Design Label (NODL) - the holding company that manages Ted Baker's British and European stores - reported a pre-tax loss of £43m in the year to January 2022, according to the last accounts filed at Companies House. This is despite sales of nearly £320m.

McNamara blamed this haemorrhage on AARC, the Dutch firm responsible for operating NODL's UK and Europe retail stores and online ecommerce business.

"The damage done during a period under AARC in which NODL built up a significant level of arrears was too much to overcome," he said.

But the decline cannot solely be attributed to a finance issue.

Ted Baker has had a difficult few years. During 2019, the company issued four profit warnings - and was forced to admit that it had overstated the value of clothing in its inventory by as much as £25m.

In the same year, founder Ray Kelvin - who denies wrongdoing - was forced to step down following accusations of inappropriate workplace behaviour.

"It became a scandal that tarnished the brand's image," said Stephanie Lennox, a finance expert at Startups.

Lennox also blamed the decline of officewear in an era of work-from-home.

"The pandemic-induced shift to remote working has rendered the traditional office uniform - crisp suits, pencil skirts, and even pricey floral patterned shirts - largely obsolete," she said.

A Retail Week report found that office wear sales have dropped by 67% since the onset of the pandemic.

However, Ted Baker is not the only high street brand that is struggling.

Inflation, reduced consumer spending and rising costs have hit retailers hard. Some 11 have failed already this year, forcing the closure of 260 stores and the loss of 10,516 jobs. The Body Shop UK was one high profile casualty.

Spending during the pre- Christmas quarter - known as the "golden quarter" for its normal bumper spend - was much quieter than expected, leaving brands with little wiggle room in the leaner months.

Ted Baker collapsed due to a confluence of internal issues and market conditions. But whatever the ultimate cause of its decline, its loss will be mourned by many who used to frequent the brand - including money saving guru Martin Lewis.

"Very sad to hear Ted Baker going into administration. I used to get quite a lot of my on-air jackets from there, and in the early days it was at the cutting edge of marketing," he said.

"Though in truth I stopped in the last few years as I felt it'd lost its way a bit in the offering - sadly looks like I wasn't the only way to feel that. My thoughts with the staff - I hope their jobs will be secured."

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Ted Baker collapses with hundreds of jobs at risk. What went wrong?

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British fashion brand Ted Baker has called in administrators for its UK business, putting nearly 1,000 jobs at risk.

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I wonder what this signals about the luxury fashion online retail space, or the whole luxury industry....

Was sad to see how impacted the smaller suppliers/retailers were from this: "The administration process in the UK (which is akin to Chapter 11 bankruptcy in the US) can be murky. Insolvency practitioners are tasked with maximising returns for secured creditors as a top priority — typically this means repaying loans from banks or other lenders. As a result, it is often the larger stakeholders that are offered the most protection, while the smaller suppliers are the most exposed." - Vogue Business https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/consumers/what-really-happened-with-matches-and-where-do-we-go-from-here

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Designer brands including Gucci and Anya Hindmarch have been left millions of pounds out of pocket and some customers will not get refunds after online fashion site Matchesfashion collapsed owing more than £210m last month.

Customers who bought designer items prior to the administration are not able to return items or get a refund, according to a report by administrators published on Wednesday.

Matches, founded in 1987 as a boutique in the London suburb of Wimbledon by husband and wife Tom and Ruth Chapman, collapsed on 8 March after it was hit by widespread discounting and softening demand for luxury fashion.

Matches was acquired by Mike Ashley's Frasers in late 2023 for £52m in cash from the private equity firm Apax Partners. Frasers put in £33m to keep it trading. However, after a difficult Christmas, Frasers said it was unwilling to provide further funds and called in administrators from Teneo.

The administrators said the retailer's 541 known unsecured creditors - including customers, landlords and designer clothing suppliers - are owed at least £35.6m, and potentially as much as £100m, but are unlikely to collectively receive more than £800,000, or "less than a penny in the pound".

One Matches customer told the Guardian that she had returned products worth more than £500 in January but, after the administration, was told she would not be refunded.

"I have been a very loyal customer to Matchesfashion since it started online, and bought regularly," she said. "I feel abused! This is not acceptable."

Some suppliers - such as landlords, logistics companies security and IT providers - have been paid to ensure the retailer can continue to trade while administrators attempt to sell off the business.

Administrators said they also expected to pay almost £300,000 owed to employees and £1.2m to tax authorities.

Swedish label Toteme is the brand owed the most by Matches, according to the administrators report, with a debt of almost £1m. Burberry, Gucci and Max Mara are each owed about £500,000.

Well-known British labels are also on the hook. Paul Smith and Samantha Cameron's Cefinn are both owed more than £100,000 while Anya Hindmarch and Joseph are owed more than £200,000 each.

Anya Hindmarch, the British luxury accessories brand, is owed more than £200,000 by Matches, according to administrators. Photograph: Anya Hindmarch

Administrators said 190 suppliers had claimed ownership of almost £23m of stock and were seeking to retrieve it, but only £3.4m had been returned so far.

Matches also owed £173m to Frasers and administrators said that this was unlikely to be repaid in full.

Administrators cut 273 jobs last month, more than half of Matches' workforce, while the chief executive, former Asos boss Nick Beighton, lost his job.

Teneo said administrators had received 11 offers for Matches late last month and they were continuing to review bids.

It is not clear if Frasers will seek to buy back the company amid a tough luxury market. Wealthy customers have been forced to rein in spending due to higher interest rates on mortgages and loans, and a 32% rise in average prices of luxury fashion since 2019, according to Teneo.

Online specialists have been hit particularly hard. Retailer Farfetch agreed a controversial rescue deal with the South Korean e-commerce giant Coupang through a pre-pack administration in January. Richemont's Yoox Net-a-Porter, which Farfetch had been lined up to buy, is heavily loss-making.

On Wednesday, the owner of upmarket department store Harvey Nichols revealed that shareholders had pumped in more than £25m of new funds and made a further £7m available in the past year after it continued to post a loss.

The retail group reported a £21.3m loss for the year to 1 April 2023, after a loss of £30.4m a year before, despite a 13% rise in sales to £217m. Debts rose to £82m from £63.4m but bank debt was paid off in favour of loans via shareholder Dickson Poon, the Hong Kong-based entrepreneur.

This article was amended on 25 April 2024. Farfetch had been lined up to buy Richemont's Yoox Net-a-Porter, not the other way round.

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Designer brands owed millions after Matchesfashion collapse

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Some customers of the online fashion site, which owed more than £210m when it collapsed in March, are also unable to get refunds

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The primary objective of any fashion or beauty brand is to make an emotional connection to motivate consumers to make a purchase - whether they are selling the latest anti-aging serum or a simple pair of socks. Brands who have successfully developed a solid branding strategy are more likely to establish a solid foundation for growth, and have a higher likelihood of attracting both new and returning customers. In fact, data from a study from marketing agency Red C found that 82 percent of online shoppers prefer to purchase from brands with which they are already familiar.

As fashion brands across the globe continue to vie for consumers' attention - and their wallets, analysts from BusinessFinancing.co.uk delved into Google search data to identify the most popular consumer brands worldwide. However, in the shifting landscape of fashion,

brand popularity can change rapidly, prompting analysts to take another look at which major global brands recently increased in popularity in specific countries. Studying Google search data from 2021 to 2023 to determine which brands have gained or lost popularity in the UK, the US, Canada, and Australia, the new study lists these trends in the map below:

Crocs gained the most popularity globally Credits: BusinessFinanincing.co.uk

Crocs gains the most popularity globally within fashion

Footwear brand Crocs was found to have gained the most popularity globally among fashion brands, taking the top spot in a total of 23 countries. Selling more than 150 million pairs of shoes each year, it's likely that most consumers have come across a pair of Crocs at some point in their lives. A niche footwear brand that rose to fame in the early 2000s thanks to its unique design and extreme comfort, some may find it hard to believe that this footwear brand is now more popular than ever.

In 2023, Crocs, Inc. reported a global net revenue of approximately 3.96 billion USD, an increase from the 3.55 USD billion recorded in the previous year. A quick search for #crocs on Instagram reveals close to 2.7 million posts, where consumers showcase their customized and embellished Crocs styles. Collaborating twice with luxury fashion Balenciaga has likely further fuelled Crocs' boost in popularity, despite footwear initially being designed for function over fashion.

New Balance rises to take second most popular fashion brand globally

The second fashion brand to rise in global popularity is fellow footwear and sportswear brand New Balance, which ranked at the top in 18 countries according to the study. Rising from being seen as the fashion underdog, the brand is said to be "cooler than it was ten years ago," with sneakerheads across the globe seeking out the brand's newest silhouettes. In 2022, New Balance achieved a record revenue of 5.3 billion USD, as the brand experienced faster sales growth than larger competitors like Nike and Adidas.

According to USA Today, CEO Joe Preston previously projected that revenues could reach 10 billion USD in the next few years. Collaborations with leading designers such as Salehe Bembury, JJJJound, and Aimé Leon Dore have certainly contributed to New Balance's growing popularity, as has its newfound popularity among celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Chris Pine, Zoe Kravitz, and athletes like NBA players Kawhi Leonard and Jamal Murray, and MLB players Shohei Ohtani and Francisco Lindor.

Malbon x New Balance 997G Credits: StockX

According to the study, luxury fashion conglomerate LVMH saw the most significant growth in popularity, ranking at the top in 14 countries, followed by luxury fashion houses Burberry and Hermes. LVMH remains the world's most valuable luxury company, based on market capitalization and revenue, and is best known for its extensive portfolio of high-quality brands, commitment to sustainability, and exceptional craftsmanship. The organization's blend of traditional expertise, creativity, and innovation has established LVMH as a global ambassador of French luxury and a symbol of superior French craftsmanship, making the company's growing popularity a given.

In addition, Levi Strauss & Co. has seen significant increases in popularity in the US and the UK, with an 85 percent year-on-year rise in the US and a 146 percent surge in the UK. Fuelled by growing demand for more loose and straight-fitting styles, such as the iconic Levi's 501, Levi's jeans have gained enduring popularity in these countries due to their high quality, timeless design, iconic status, comfort, and versatility.

To determine which brands have gained or lost popularity in 2023, data analysts at BusinessFinancing.co.uk analyzed the percentage change in Google searches for over 1,000 global consumer brands over the past two years.

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Crocs tops the charts as the world's most popular fashion brand

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The primary objective of any fashion or beauty brand is to make an emotional connection to motivate consumers to make a purchase - whether they are selling...