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Ever since the emergence of the iPad as a major technology product, the question has been asked: laptop or tablet? Is a laptop even necessary when tablets can perform so many of the same functions? Are we truly living in the post-PC era? The answer is, it depends. Every person uses their technology a bit differently, and some can indeed get by with a tablet alone. But don't go assuming that the days of the laptop are numbered. While some can make do with a tablet, there are some compromises required for the tablet-only lifestyle that some users can't make. To help you figure out which device is right for you, here are a few of the best features of each.

Laptops
Laptops, like desktop PCs before them, have a built-in benefit over tablets, and that benefit is power. As a rule, laptops have more powerful processing hardware, allowing for a wider range of uses, faster performance and better multitasking. Laptops can easily handle common tablet uses—like Web browsing and media streaming—and then go significantly further, with uses ranging from simple data entry to complex tasks like photo and video editing.

And while games may be a significant part of any app store, serious PC gaming is worlds away from Angry Birds and Cut the Rope, relying on faster processors and discrete graphics processing to crank out complex rendered environments at resolutions and frame rates that tablets can't touch. Even a PC gaming tablet like the Razer Edge Pro can't match the raw performance offered by the likes of the MSI GX70 3Be-007US, our Editors' Choice for entry-level gaming.

Joining the processing hardware is storage. Where tablets may boast anywhere from 16 to 128GB of storage space, the average laptop offers 500GB or more. Even the slimmest laptops featuring smaller SSDs—like the Apple MacBook Air 11-inch (Mid 2013) —offer at least 128GB, starting where tablets top out. Add in features like optical drives for DVD or Blu-ray discs, card slots for full-size SD cards, and USB-connected flash drives and portable drives, and you can have mountains of data at your fingertips.

There's also the question of form factor. Laptops have the benefit of having a keyboard and mouse built-in, allowing you to do all of the typing and mouse-related work you would do on a desktop. Touch screens don't offer the same level of granular control that a mouse and cursor does, while on screen keyboards are really only fit for entering short bursts of text, such as a status update or a tweet. A physical keyboard is a must for entering long blocks of text, and a mouse is far more efficient than a touchscreen for frequent swapping of windows, clicking of links, and general mousing around. This is even more important in the workplace, where those very tasks may make up the bulk of your day.

Then there's the question of ports and peripherals. While both laptops and tablets have an ecosystem of accessories and devices around them, laptops—with their broadly compatible USB ports, HDMI outputs, and other features—work with a universe of accessories that don't need to be tailored to a specific device, but will work with most any properly equipped PC. From mice and keyboards to webcams and storage devices, laptops are the easy choice.

Bottom line: If you need to do serious work, need powerful processing or multitasking, or need compatibility with a specific accessory or storage device, there's no good alternative to the laptop. Tablets can fulfill some of these needs some of the time, but when it's time to get things done, the laptop still reigns.

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Laptops vs. Tablets: The Ultimate Showdown

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Ever since the emergence of the iPad as a major technology product, the question has been asked: laptop or tablet? Is a laptop even necessary when tablets can perform so many of the same functions? Are we truly living in the post-PC era? The answer is, it depends.

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When deciding between purchasing a desktop computer or a laptop computer, you'll need to consider a handful of criteria and make a determination that fits your needs the best. Below is a chart that compares the two types of computers, providing pros and cons for each to help you make a more informed purchasing decision.

In the end, the final decision depends on what your needs are. While the above chart may make it look as though Desktop computers are the best overall option, if portability is a big need of yours, the laptop is the best option. There are some limitations to consider, but they are not overly significant for most users.

However, if you want the most bang for your buck and portability is not necessary, a desktop is likely the best choice especially if price is important. Desktops are optimal choices for graphic intensive gaming, use of CAD applications, and for those who prefer to have the option of upgrading more easily. However, they are also perfectly fine for the basic computer user who just needs e-mail and Internet access.

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When deciding between purchasing a desktop computer or a laptop computer, you'll need to consider a handful of criteria and make a determination that fits your needs the best. Below is a chart that compares the two types of computers, providing pros and cons for each to help you make a more informed purchasing decision.

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When buying a new computer, it's easy to become confused by the sheer volume of technical decisions that you'll have to make.

How to choose the best desktop PC for you? Well, you might wonder how much RAM you'll need, for instance, which processor to choose or which graphics card to pick, what display to look for, which hard drive will be best for you - there are so many issues that it's difficult to know where to begin.

There is a simple way to at least begin cutting down the choices on offer, though, and ensure you get the best PC for your needs.

And that's to forget about the low-level technical specifications, and fine details like the brand of graphics card just for the moment and instead concentrate on something much more fundamental and important: what you will be expecting your system to do.

So read on to find out how to buy the best computer for you, then check out our 10 best desktop PCs on page 2.

Best computer: using your new PC

Take a moment to think about the sort of applications you'll want to run on your new PC, as these will help to decide which features your system will need.

If you only intend to run basic tasks - browsing the web, sending emails, running office-type software like Microsoft Word - then the good news is that most computers, even at the budget end of the market, will be able to cope with your requirements.

An entertainment PC can handle those basic jobs, too, but might also be used to watch TV and movies, listen to music, play some games, perhaps share music and video files across a home network. Systems like this need a little more in the way of hardware power, like a larger hard drive to store all your music and movies, as well as a big screen, a good sound card and speakers, but they still don't have to be too expensive. Many entertainment PCs are all-in-one PCs these days.

If you want to play the latest games with the best possible performance, then you'll need a gaming PC. This can be much more expensive, as not only will you need a quality screen, a good sound card and speakers, but you'll also require a powerful graphics card, fast hard drive and a decent processor.

And if you're not a gamer, but need to run some heavy-duty software - editing HD videos, say - then you'll need a high-end performance PC. This should include a powerful CPU, plenty of memory, and a large, fast hard drive, so expect a sizeable bill. But you may not need the large screen or powerful graphics card of the entertainment or gaming systems, which will help to keep prices down a little.

Best computer: netbook, laptop or desktop?

With the basic applications of your new computer resolved, it's time to think about the type of system that might be appropriate: a netbook, tablet, laptop or desktop?

Netbooks are compact notebooks with small screens (typically 10 to 12 inches), and components that are more about saving battery life than delivering raw power. So expect a slow CPU, only a little RAM (1 to 2GB, usually), no DVD drive, not too much hard drive space, and so on.

This is all that you need for basic web browsing, emailing and similar tasks, though. Their small size makes netbooks extremely portable (most are only around 1-1.5kg), battery life is usually very good at 4 to 10 hours, and you can buy some great systems from as little as £249. Our articles on the best laptop, and best Windows 8 tablet and best Windows 8 laptop will tell you more.

Laptops can seem bulky by comparison to their tiny netbook cousins: they might be more than twice the weight, with larger screens, and more powerful CPUs, which means battery life may struggle to reach 3 hours in some cases.

Of course they can also handle much more powerful applications, though. If you'll be spending hours typing on the system then you'll appreciate the larger keyboard. The built-in DVD drive makes it easier to install software and create backups, and high-end laptops can even deliver very acceptable gaming performance.

Again, we've a guide to suit everyone: The best cheap laptop focuses on budget systems, while our article on the best student laptops and the best 13" laptops cover a wider range of systems.

The best gaming laptops guide reveals that you buy mobile gaming performance for as little as £599, while the more general Which laptop should I buy? article walks you through the buying process and explains how to make sure you get the right system for you.

If you don't need a computer you can carry around, though, a desktop will be your best option. These are larger, but deliver more power for your money, and are generally much easier to upgrade or reconfigure. So if you decide you need better gaming performance, say, you can just buy another graphics card at a later date, something that won't be possible at all with most netbooks or laptops.

But if you've already got a list of preferred PC manufacturers then it might be more interesting to think about the hardware that your new computer should include - and there's plenty to consider.

Best computer: technical specs

In the past, one of the first questions to ask about your new PC has been how much memory you'll need. These days, though, even many budget PCs come with 4 or 6GB of RAM.

If you're short of cash and only want to run very basic programs, perhaps to browse the web or send emails, then you might just about get away with 2GB. Maybe. But opting for 4GB will help to improve your system's performance, even here, so avoid skimping on memory if you possibly can.

If you're buying a more high-end system, though, you might also want to consider the type of memory it should include to deliver the best results. Our article on How to buy RAM will tell you more.

It's a similar situation with hard drives. If you're buying a budget PC (around £400, say) then look for the highest capacity you can afford; we'd recommend at least 750GB, although even many budget PCs now include 1TB drives.

If you've more cash to spend, though, it's worth paying more attention to the technical details. Read How to buy the best new hard drive for a grounding in the basics. And if you've a big budget, then solid-state drives (SSDs) deliver the best performance around, though their capacities are low. Our guide to the best SSDs, or solid state drives, will tell you more.

To help you choose between a hard disk drive and a solid-state drive, take a look at our guide SSD vs HDD: which is best?

Then of course there's the issue of your computer's processor: which one is the best CPU? The good news here is that even the cheapest PCs now include CPUs with two cores, essentially separate processors that allow you to run multiple tasks at the same time. But even if money is tight, look for something with more cores, if you can: something like Intel's Core i3-530 or AMD's Athlon II X4 640 offer decent performance at a budget price.

While we've hopefully covered most of your concerns here, there may be one or two other issues you want to consider.

If you aim to play the latest games on your computer, for instance, the choice of graphics card will be critical. Let us help you out with our guide to the best graphics cards in the world today.

And whatever you're doing on your system, a quality LCD monitor will be crucial - so be sure to read our guide to the technical details you really need to know before you buy a monitor.

It's a lot to consider, then, but doing your homework now will really pay off later. And that's because understanding the features you need (and the ones you really don't) will both save you money and help you choose the best PC that will serve you well for years to come.

Which, of course, is the best news of all, because your systems' extended life means you won't have to go computer shopping again for a long, long time.

Buying a computer for a business? Then check out best business laptops and Best business tablets

Liked this? Then check out Top laptops: the 20 best laptops in the world

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Best computer: how to choose the right one

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When buying a new computer, it's easy to become confused by the sheer volume of technical decisions that you'll have to make. How to choose the best desktop PC for you?

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In days past, choosing the best computer technology was often an exercise of frustrating tradeoffs-would you rather have more battery life or lower cost, a larger screen, or greater portability? Today, choosing between laptop vs. desktop has shifted from settling for less to maximizing your choices: With continual improvement in technology, and more options than ever, you can choose the perfect computer that fits your individual needs.

Laptop vs. Desktop: The Basic (But No Longer Set In Stone) Division
Back in 2008, laptop sales passed desktops for the first time, and portable devices have entrenched themselves even further as their power increased and prices dropped. Desktops have by no means disappeared, though. Like everything else in computing, the right choice depends on how you're going to use the device. The general division between the two classes of computers goes like this:

Laptops suit an on-the-go world. They can be unplugged from an external power source, and taken with you. Typically, they take up less space and don't require you to purchase a separate monitor.

Desktops have plenty of positives on their side, as well. Typically, desktops offer more power and expandability at a lower cost. They're also easier to upgrade, repair, and customize, which is why they often remain the choice for serious gamers. They also tend to come with better speakers, more peripheral options, and larger keyboards.

That said, there are no hard and fast rules anymore. Some new mini-desktop computers are as small and inconspicuous as laptops. And nowadays, laptops can offer the same power and performance as you can get from almost any desktop.

All-in-One: Turning PCs on Their Side
The capabilities of today's desktop computer have evolved considerably. The clearest example of this can be seen in the All-in-One (AIO) computer, which turns the idea of the PC on its side-literally. AIOs blur the lines between desktops and laptops with a large touch screen and a built-in battery so you can easily prop it up, lay it down, or unplug it and move it to any room in the house. These computers can even be mounted on the wall to create, stream, and share HD content, play online games as a family, or listen to music.

All-in-One PCs can cost more than the traditional desktop and be more difficult to upgrade, but they provide a space-saving, stylish alternative to the traditional home computer.

"What you're really investing in is a design you like [with laptops]. That can include weight, thickness and screen size, but also covers the layout of the keyboard, how large the touchpad is, how thick the bezel around the screen is, metal versus plastic, or even the color or pattern on the back of the lid."

Dan Ackerman, Section Editor, CNET

2 in 1: The Height of Versatility
The flexibility of modern computers is demonstrated by 2 in 1s, laptops that can switch between traditional clamshell mode, tablet model, and other positions, such as standing up like a tent. 2 in 1s come with screens that can be detached completely or flexible screens that can bend back 360 degrees. The bend-back screens are aimed at people who primarily want a laptop experience, while the detachable units fit people who mostly want to use a 2 in 1 as a tablet.

Whether you use your computer to watch movies, study, run your small business, or perform any other task, there is a perfect choice to fit your needs. Consider how you are going to use the computer and what you need in terms of portability, performance, flexibility, monitor size, and price-and then go shopping!

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In days past, choosing the best computer technology was often an exercise of frustrating tradeoffs-would you rather have more battery life or lower cost, a larger screen, or greater portability? Today, choosing between laptop vs.

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Another sub-reddit, only here 'Redditors' with knowledge help you make sure everything is compatible and of good value.

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Another sub-reddit, only here 'Redditors' with knowledge help you make sure everything is compatible and of good value.

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r/buildmeapc: Welcome to /r/buildmeapc! If you are new to computer building, and need someone to help you put parts together for your build or even an experienced builder looking to talk tech you are in the right place!

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Building a gaming PC - Part 1: Getting Started | Forums

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http://static3.cdn.ubi.com/orbit/uplaynews/main/buildapc/BuildAPC_Featured2.jpg Part 2 - Building Your PC can be found HERE! If you spend enough time online or talk to other gamers you've probably heard horror stories about how difficult it is to build a PC, or even the opposite and that it's child's play and as simple as putting a few blocks of Lego together.

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There's never been a better time to be a PC gamer. The gaming scene is vibrant: envelope-pushing graphical powerhouses look best on the PC, and it's the first stop for independent developers making creative and innovative games. And building a great gaming PC has never been cheaper or easier. But, we admit it-if you've never built a PC before, it can still be a little intimidating.

Our example RIg

But it's easy. We promise. And we think you should build your own gaming rig, even if your last gaming PC was a great system from a custom rig-builder. If you're ready to take the plunge and build your next gaming PC, we're here to help. This is our step-by-step guide to building your own PC, with video embeds illustrating each major step of the process. Seriously, putting together your PC isn't much tougher than putting together a model kit or a big Lego set.

Here are some general starting tips before getting into the step-by-step process:

Avoid static electricity! Build your PC on a table or some flat surface away from carpet. Ideally, dispel any built-up bodily charge by touching a grounded metal object before you touch sensitive PC components. As long as you're not rubbing your socked feet back and forth and building up a static charge, you're probably fine.

Open up your motherboard manual to the diagram page that shows a layout of the motherboard. If you ever get confused about what goes where, the labels on this page should help you sort it out.

PC Gamer readers have also given us some great tips, which we've compiled here. Read through the building section before tackling your first

Build steps

For this build, we're using the following components. Your build will likely differ slightly, but but most of the steps below are universal and will look and function very similarly.

Install the CPU

Parts used: Motherboard, CPU

Remove your motherboard from its anti-static sleeve and place it on a clean, flat surface, where you'll be doing your build. Remove the protective plastic covering over the CPU socket on the motherboard by pushing the lever arm down and to the side, then pulling the covering up. Now you're ready to install the processor.

Open your CPU box and take the processor out. It's probably safely housed in a plastic sleeve. Look at the CPU, and match the arrow on the bottom-left corner of the chip with the bottom corner of the socket. There are also two notches on the top half of the chip. The pins face down, so the plain silver side should be facing up. There's only one possible way to correctly orient the CPU, which makes it easy to install!

The CPU fits into the socket, and you don't need to press down to force it into place. It doesn't "snap" in-it just rests on top of the pins. To finish the installation, simply lower the socket covering and push the lever arm back into place.

Install the CPU cooler

Parts used: motherboard (with installed CPU), CPU cooler, thermal paste

Ready for what is (usually) the hardest step of your build process? Everything from here on is a total breeze, but installing a CPU cooler can be a bit tricky, especially because they vary in design. For this step, you should primarily be following the steps shown in your CPU cooler's included instructions. But I'll walk you through two examples: installing the stock Intel cooler included with Intel's processors, and installing the popular Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, our recommended air cooler.

Stock Intel cooler: This little guy will keep an Intel processor cool enough if you're not doing any overclocking, but it's not as quiet or efficient as an aftermarket cooler. Its greatest strength, however, is simplicity. If you look at the bottom of the cooler, you'll notice it already has thermal material on it. This means you don't need to add thermal paste to your CPU. Intel's cooler is also easy to mount. Simply place it over the CPU socket, oriented so that its labeling faces the same direction as the text on the processor. The frame of the socket is the top, while the lever arm juts down to the bottom. Push the cooler's pegs into the four holes surrounding the CPU socket until they click into place.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo: This cooler takes a bit more work. First, find the CPU mounting plate (aka back plate). You need to install this plate to the backside of the motherboard to provide extra support for the cooler. Refer to the instructions to find the proper screws and backplate positioning for your motherboards, since the mounting positioning can vary slightly between sockets. But lining it up should be easy-there are four holes around the edges of the CPU socket, and that's where you'll be placing screws to attach to the backplate on the backside of the motherboard. Hold the backplate in position so its mounting holes line up with the holes around the socket, then screw it into place from the top side.

With the backplate securely in place, you're ready to install the cooler. Unclip the fan from the radiator to make it easier to install. Now flip the radiator over so that the small side, with copper piping, is facing up. There should be a clear plastic covering on this surface to keep it clean.

Remove the plastic and apply a pea-size dab of thermal paste to the middle of the surface (I did a sloppy job in the video above: you can use about half that much thermal paste). You don't need a lot, and you don't need to spread it around-pressing the cooler onto the CPU will do that for you.

Ready to put it in place? Orient the cooler vertically over the CPU socket (the socket is taller than it is wide, so you should orient the cooler to match) and press it down firmly on the CPU. Make sure it's on straight.

Home stretch: look at the CPU mounting bracket, a crossbar with spring-loaded screws on the ends. Reference the instructions to make sure those screws are positioned properly for your motherboard socket. Then, with the bracket closed, slip it in the gap between the radiator and the contact point of the cooler. There's a little peg hole here that the center of the bracket nestles into. Push it into place, then spread the two arms out and position the screws into place over the four mounting screws you installed earlier. Screw them in, and you should feel the cooler tighten up against the motherboard until it's held solidly in place.

Reattach the fan to the heatsink simply by clipping it into place. You've now installed your CPU cooler.

Slot in the RAM

Parts used: motherboard (with CPU and cooler), RAM

This step is easy. So easy. Take your RAM sticks (you probably have two or four) out of their packaging. Before installing, refer to your motherboard manual's page about the RAM slots. This page will tell you which RAM slots are the ideal slots to use based on how many sticks you have. These slots are usually color coordinated.

Once you know where you're putting the RAM, unlock the slot by pushing down on the hinged tabs on one end. Orient your RAM so that the notch ⅓ of the way through the stick matches with the notch on the slot. Now press the RAM sticks firmly into the slots. Don't worry about pressing too hard-it takes some pressure. The tabs will click into place when the sticks are fully inserted.

Snap the I/O shield into place

Parts used (PC case, motherboard I/O shield)

Time to open up that shiny new PC case you bought. Opening it is as simple as undoing the thumbscrews at the back of the case that hold the panels in place, and then removing them. Now lay the case flat on your table so that the main cavity faces up.

Your motherboard should've come with a rectangular plastic or metal I/O shield that fits over the motherboard's input/output ports. To install the I/O shield into the case, first orient it correctly in relation to the motherboard, then fit it into the rectangular slot at the back of the PC case. You'll have to press it firmly into the slot from within the case; they can be finicky to install, and the edges are sharp, so watch your fingers. Press against each side of the I/O shield until it gives you a solid snap.

Install the motherboard standoffs in the PC case and screw in the motherboard

Parts used: PC case, PC case standoffs and screws, motherboard

Your case should've come with a box or bag full of screws, zip-ties, and other odds and ends you'll use for installation. Find the motherboard standoffs-the bottom halves of the standoffs are threaded, while the top halves are screw holes that you'll be screwing the motherboard into.

Now examine your case. There should be about a dozen small holes around the inside of the case where the standoffs go. Depending on your case, they may be labeled for different size motherboards: A for ATX, M for micro ATX, and I for mini ITX. Depending on the size of your motherboard (in most cases, you'll be building with a standard ATX size), you want to put the standoffs into the correctly labeled holes. If they're not labeled, you should have enough standoffs to simply cover every hole. Screw them into place using the included standoff tool, which fits over the standoff and lets you use a screwdriver.

With the standoffs in place, it's time to screw in the motherboard. Orient it so that the I/O ports line up properly with the I/O shield, then lower the motherboard until it's resting on the standoffs. Most cases have a peg that fits up through a hole in the center of the motherboard, so if you have it properly positioned, it should now be locked into place. Once the motherboard's placed, find the motherboard screws that came with your case and tighten that mother down.

Install the power supply

Parts used: Power supply, PC case

Another easy step. Take your power supply out of its box and set aside all the cables, which you'll be using a bit later. Depending on the model, the power supply may be completely modular (in which case, no cables are permanently attached) or partially modular (primary motherboard power cables are hardwired in) or not at all modular (a whole big mess of permanently attached cables). Regardless, this step of the installation process is the same: you're going to put the PSU into the case, usually at the bottom, so that the rear vent and power plug and on/off switch face out of the rear of the case.

Depending on your case, you may have the option to orient the power supply face up or face down. See the big fan on top of your power supply? If your case has a vent at the bottom, you can orient that fan down to pull in cool air from below the case. But don't orient the PSU downwards if your PC will be resting on carpet. The fan needs clear airflow. If your case doesn't have that ventilation at the bottom, simply orient the power supply so that the fan faces up, into the case.

With the power supply nestled against the back of the case, find the power supply screws that came with your case and screw it in tight. You'll probably need to push against the power supply from inside the case to make sure it's snug.

Insert hard drives and/or SSDs

Parts used: PC case, HDD, SSD

This step will vary a bit based on your case and what kind of storage you're putting into your PC. A pretty standard configuration these days is an SSD for your Windows installation and games, and a HDD for bulk storage of media.

In a typical case, there are convenient hard drive trays that slide in and out, or plastic runners that snap onto the sides of the HDD. If it's a tray, it probably mounts onto the bottom of the hard drive. Orient your HDD in the tray so that its ports face out of the back of the tray. This will allow you to run cables to it on the backside of the case, and keep the interior cavity nice and clear. Now find the HDD screws included with your PC case parts and screw the HDD to the tray. Then simply slide the tray back into its slot, where it should fit with a nice click. Runners are even easier: just snap them to the sides of the HDD and then slot it into an empty space in the hard drive cage.

SSD mounting methods vary: some cases now have dedicated 2.5-inch SSD slots, while others use adapter trays to fit the SSD into the same part of the case as the HDDs. If it's a tray, the installation will be similar to a hard drive. Refer to your case's manual to figure out how your SSD should be mounted.

Plug in hard drives and/or SSDs

Parts used: PC case, SATA cables, power cables, HDD, SSD

Once you have all your drives installed, it's time to plug 'em in. Find the SATA data cables included with your motherboard, and plug those into the small SATA ports on the drives. The SATA port is notched, so the cable can only fit in one way.

After the SATA data cable comes the SATA power cable. These cables may already be attached to your power supply-there are usually plugs attached to a single cable, and you should have several extras included with the power supply. If your HDD and SSD are installed close together, you should only need one cable to power them both. Find the cable where it's connected to the power supply, pull it through one of the cable management openings along the wall of the case, and plug in both the SSD and HDD. Like the SATA data cables, these are notched, and can only plug in one way.

Final step: your SATA data cables are probably just dangling from the drives right now. Thread them through one of the cable management openings into the main case cavity and plug them into the SATA data ports on the motherboard. They're usually located on the right side of the board, conveniently close to a cable management opening. Which port should you use? All of them should work fine, but refer to your motherboard manual for information on the SATA controller. It will tell you which ports belong to the motherboard chipset (I'd recommend using those) versus a third-party SATA controller.

Plug USB, power, fans, and case controls into the motherboard

Parts used: PC case, motherboard, power supply

You're in the home stretch! For this step, open up your motherboard manual to the layout page, because you've got a bunch of cables to plug in. There should be a big wad of cables somewhere inside the case, which control its built-in fans and external power and reset buttons and front panel USB and audio ports. Most of them are small pin connectors that plug in at the bottom-right of the motherboard. They're all labeled, so plugging them in is as simple as reading your manual and figuring out what goes where.

From the power supply, you'll also need to plug in two cables: the large, primary ATX 20-pin molex power cable plugs into the motherboard to provide power. And ATX motherboards also need a secondary 6-pin molex power cable up near the CPU. To plug in that cable, you may want to run it around the back of your case and through one of the cable management slots near the top. If it's too short, you can thread it around the side of the motherboard and CPU cooler. Just don't stretch it across the center of the cavity, as that's where we'll be placing the graphics card momentarily.

With the motherboard powered, the last plugs you need to attach are fans. First, make sure your CPU cooler's fan is plugged into the port near the CPU socket. Then make sure all your case fans are plugged into their nearest fan power pins. Those should be visibly labeled on the motherboard, but again, refer to the manual to make sure you place them properly.

Insert the graphics card

Parts used: PC case, motherboard, graphics card, power supply

Here we are: the final step before your gaming rig is fully operational. Find the first x16 PCIe slot on your motherboard-the long slot closest to the CPU socket-and remove the expansion slot cover plates to the left of it. Most video cards use a dual-slot design, which means you need to remove the cover plate directly left of the PCIe slot, and the one above it. To take them off, simply unscrew the thumbscrews and slide them out.

Now align your graphics card's PCIe PCIe interface with the slot and press it into place. When it's slotted in, re-insert the thumbscrews you just took out to keep the graphics card strongly locked into place.

All that's left is to feed it power. Your power supply probably already has two six pin molex power connectors plugged in, unless it's a fully modular design. If it is fully modular, find those cables in your supplies, plug them into the PSU, and then plug them into the graphics card. Depending on how much power the card needs, you might also have to plug in the extra 2-pin attachments that can fit snugly against the 6-pins. With your graphics card fully powered, you're ready to game.

Powering on and troubleshooting

Don't completely close up your case just yet. Before you do, you should test if your computer is working as intended. Plug in the system and attach a monitor (make sure you plug the monitor cable into the video card) and a keyboard, the bare essentials for testing if the system will boot. Then make sure the power switch in the back is in the On position, and press the power button. If the computer turns on, that's a promising start!

If you see the BIOS screen pop up on the monitor, that's even better. If you get any kind of error message here that doesn't immediately make sense, Google's probably your best resource. It could also be an issue common to your motherboard, so you can try searching for the error message plus the name of your motherboard.

If nothing shows up on the screen at all, or the system doesn't turn on properly, the most likely issue is with your cables. Double check that everything is plugged in where it needs to be (don't forget the molex power cable that runs up to the CPU socket!), and make sure nothing is loose. With a little jiggling, you'll likely have a working PC!

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How to build a gaming PC: a beginner's guide

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There's never been a better time to be a PC gamer. The gaming scene is vibrant: envelope-pushing graphical powerhouses look best on the PC, and it's the first stop for independent developers making creative and innovative games. And building a great gaming PC has never been cheaper or easier.

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Amazon Sells everything, including components.  

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Amazon Sells everything, including components.  

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computer components - computers & accessories

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Shop a wide selection of Computer Components at Amazon.com including CPUs, solid-state drives, graphics cards, and more.

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MicroCenter has some of the best in store deals.

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MicroCenter has some of the best in store deals.

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cpu hardware networking pcs notebooks digital cameras camcorder projectors fax printers lcd plasma tv monitors byopc components upgrades optical dvd cd media hard drives video sound cards motherboard backup ink cartridges pda mp3 players cables furniture technical manuals software video game system movies

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Micro Center - Computers and Electronics

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Micro Center - Computers and Electronics - Thousands of products to buy: desktops, laptops, monitors, build your own PC parts, upgrades, digital imaging, printing supplies, portable devices, audio equipment, software, video games, movies, tech books, plus repair service, store hours, directions, and employment opportunities.

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PC Parts Picker has great systems others have build and reviews of them, along with general tech reviews.

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PC Parts Picker has great systems others have build and reviews of them, along with general tech reviews.

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TigerDirect Business - Electronics, Tablets, Phones, Office Supplies & Video Games

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Shop TigerDirect Business for the best prices on computers, computer parts, electronics & more! With over 100,000 items online to choose from, we offer a wide selection of your favorite products. You shop fast, we ship fast at TigerDirect Business!

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Toms Hardware has in depth reports on systems and components.

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Toms Hardware has in depth reports on systems and components.

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Tom's Hardware: For The Hardcore PC Enthusiast

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Tom's Hardware helps you buy the best hardware and build the best PC to play, create and work.

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Newegg.com is a leader in selling PC parts.

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Newegg.com is a leader in selling PC parts.

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Reddit has some great user generated links and 'subreddits' to ask questions!

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Reddit has some great user generated links and 'subreddits' to ask questions!

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r/buildapc: Planning on building a computer but need some advice? This is the place to ask! /r/buildapc is a community-driven subreddit dedicated to custom PC assembly. Anyone is welcome to seek the input of our helpful community as they piece together their desktop.