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Crossing Gender/ Sexuality Boundaries In Fashion : MALES

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Crossing Gender/ Sexuality Boundaries In Fashion : MALES

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In 2016 Jaden Smith – son of Hollywood actor Will Smith – donned a skirt in Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2016 campaign.

- Jaden Smith is a Black Bisexual Male

Then there’s also Harry Styles in Gucci boots, Zayn Malik in ladies’ blouses – Justin Bieber is impartial to women’s skinny jeans.

**https://www.vogue.com/article/jaden-smith-louis-vuitton-campaign

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'Gender and the Media' BOOK : By Rosalind Gill (2007)

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'Gender and the Media' BOOK : By Rosalind Gill (2007)

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AGEISM - 'Older women are conspicuous by their absence in most advertising, and when they are shown they are depicted in a narrow range of (often unflattering).
RACE - 'Black women are frequently portrayed in crude stereotypes, often signalling animalistic sexuality, exotic 'otherness' or 'soul''
SEXISM - 'Over the last decade or so the shift from the portrayal of women as 'sex objects' has been shifted to women as 'active and desiring sexual objects' - Based On Image[ Bra + Underwear Advertisement, 1994 ]

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- Alexander McQueen
- Jean Paul Gaultier
- John Galliano
- Michael Costello
- Christian Dior
- Karl Lagerfeld
- Alexander Wang
- Helmut Lang
- Franco Moschino
- Christopher Bailey

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- Many styles and Items are still associated with certain sexualities (Stereotypes / Traditions) they're being broken
- 'Androgyny' is Popular and on the rise : UNISEX?

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Gay Male View On Fashion And Sexuality : Need For Expression

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Gay Male View On Fashion And Sexuality : Need For Expression

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https://www.pinknews.co.uk/2018/07/17/fashion-sexuality-link-fluidity/

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* Racism
* Homophobia
* Transphobia
* Ageism
* Sexism
and so on..

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- Plus Size Black Fashion Blogger documenting life as she is in the fashion industry
- Written about Body-positivity, Race, Intersexuality, Feminism and Dating
- Started 10 Years Ago**

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- No Photoshop In Campaigns/ Shoots
- Using real life women
- Submission space *inclusive*
- Pushing back against ideas in the Fashion Industry : HIERARCHAL / CLASSIST (prejudices)
- ''Get even more Weirder'' Editor of Polyester
- Representing ourselves in a way WE Want to be SEEN
**** '' Polyester is a self published, intersectional feminist fashion and culture publication aiming to bridge the gap of URL cyberfeminism with the IRL world.""

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''Gender Non- Binary Fashion''
- Marginalised Groups supporting artists/ Creatives in the Higher Education
- SoN Supports:

1. Curriculum design

2. Pedagogies of social justice through representation

3. Cultural currency

4. Accessible knowledge

- '' This is a program that creates opportunities for marginalised groups and their need for safe spaces to articulate self-determination and liberate the struggles from oppressive structures both in education and society. ''

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ANNA WINTOUR on Milan FW talks Diversity - VOGUe

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ANNA WINTOUR on Milan FW talks Diversity - VOGUe

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- diversity : body sizing : Marni, D &G
** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aq1hvhJOFto

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** http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/39994/1/new-york-modelling-agency-championing-lgbtq-talents-new-pandemics-richard-kern

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http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/41073/1/ford-model-agency-chufue-yang-dropped-him-for-being-gay-asian-chicago

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Black Model gets dropped at the casting for being black.

The way it is conducted shows how narrow minded the designers still are.

Still exclusive, still looking at colour. White models above all other ethnic models.

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“the designer doesn’t feel like using more than one black girl.”

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''There’s a thirst for representation, and rather than it being a novelty or some sort of tokenism, fashion is finally realising that its traditional methods of casting and advertising are no longer representing their audience.”

** http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/39723/1/five-models-discuss-diversity-in-new-film-include-me-ali-kurr-tre-koch

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- Revolt Model Management (LND)
- Milk Model Management (LND)
- IMM Models (LND)
- BMA MODELS (LND)
- MODELS1 (LND)

Plus size/ Height/ Trans + QUeer **(no high fashion/runway agency)

- PLUS (Paris)
- Marilyn Agency (Paris)
- IMG Models (Paris)

- IMG Models (Milan)
- MILK Management (Milan)
- NEXT Management (Milan)

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-During the early 20th century, Black models were limited to magazines like Ebony and Jet, aimed specifically at African-American audiences.
- The mid-1960s saw a slow shift in mainstream beauty standards.

** https://broadly.vice.com/en_us/article/mb5gdn/the-model-who-broke-barriers-as-vogues-first-ever-black-cover-girl

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- Fashion Campaigns/ Covers etc. have been known for using photoshop to usually thin models out.
- No news that a popular Fashion Nova site has been caught using photoshop to promote 'plus size' line using size 2 model
- BRAND: AERIE has shifted that, does not use photoshop on own models as well as Misguided only very recently.

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Fashion Nova uses Size 2 Model in ''Plus Size'' Campaign

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Fashion Nova uses Size 2 Model in ''Plus Size'' Campaign

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- Additional Photoshop angered audience
- Promised 'Plus size' Representation, yet false delivery
- Brand has to give the consumer what it wants = CURRENT FAILURE TO DO SO

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Simply Be Campaign Controversy 'Plus Size'

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Simply Be Campaign Controversy 'Plus Size'

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The brand launched a new denim campaign this month called ‘we are curvy’ however customers were quick to point out that the models in the campaign are average size.

- using small 'plus size' women to represent those of 20UK sizing

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It's clear that more ethnic models are walking the runways, but is this enough?

- Milan/ Paris have the least ethnic models. Milan being the exclusive season hosting only 1 out of 30 models that are ethnic
- New York most ethnic models

** http://www.thefashionspot.com/runway-news/786015-runway-diversity-report-fall-2018/

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Hierarchy - power sharing to  compromise, to be inclusive.

- “Why should my experience and product and money be lessened purely by something I don’t have control of?”

** https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/people/sinead-burke-versus-the-bell-curve

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- “No one is looking at this market in isolation,”
-''They’ve not been invited to the table to help make and share decisions.” no interest from media to want to understand and provide for this market.
- Global Economics of Disability calculated that the 1.2 billion disabled people in the world have a combined annual disposable income of $1 trillion.
- ''“One of the challenges of fashion is that it is notoriously hierarchical, and it profits from exclusivity. In order for the disabled market to be relevant customers and to have their voices validated, there has to be power sharing''

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Vogue Italia  went almost 50 years without giving a Chinese model a solo cover. In 2013, Fei Fei Sun broke the magazine’s 49 year streak with this retro-inspired cover.

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Donyale Luna was one of the first black models ever have a solo Vogue cover.

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Vin + OMI ''Rebelious'' ''Sustainable'' / ''Eco friendly'' for Creatives and people who push boundaries

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Vin + OMI ''Rebelious'' ''Sustainable'' / ''Eco friendly'' for Creatives and people who push boundaries

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This brand is inclusive of its audience. The only show I have walked that has a variety of Models represented in an official LFW show.

Brands that Design more ''feminine'' and ''classy'' garments like F.H.Christensen at Fashion Scout SS19 has small representation of diversity.

4 Asian Models, and no Black. Rest is white.

So Art the brands that do not stand for rebellion and individuality the ones promoting no diversity?

Is being diverse considered 'rebellious' and 'quirky' or downgrade version of luxury?

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- Age Variation
- Race Representation
- Trans/ Queer
- Body Modifications
- Body Size

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Marc Jacobs SS18 New York ''Head Wrap'' Controversy

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Marc Jacobs SS18 New York ''Head Wrap'' Controversy

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https://www.allure.com/story/marc-jacobs-head-wraps-appropriation-controversy-spring-2018

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Marc Jacobs Response

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Marc Jacobs Show SS17 New York FW ''Dreadlock'' Controversy

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Marc Jacobs Show SS17 New York FW ''Dreadlock'' Controversy

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http://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/article/37406039/marc-jacobs-apologises-over-dreadlock-controversy-at-new-york-fashion-week